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On our trip we hit these same places. I too remember how dim the lighting was in that exhibit, but agree that it is so well done. The entire museum was excellent! DD and I had tea at the Empress one afternoon while the guys went fishing. We didn't need dinner that night as we were still full.
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Did you finish all that food? Sigh! How much I miss scones with clotted cream.
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"<i>Did you finish all that food?</i>" Yep -- every last crumb :)
But then again -- it was lunch AND dinner . . . ;) (actually I think I did leave one marzipan covered chocolate thingy) |
<B> May 24 - Butchart, Butchart, Butchart (and sleeping through dinner) . . . . </B>
After another wonderful breakfast - and again sharing the table w/ the mother, and her sons who are still eating like trenchermen while mom is eating her 'special' diet. She apparently found some sugarless soymilk somewhere in town so got to eat w/ the rest of us. Not sure what the entire diet consists of but it just looked like cereal and fruit to me. I did ask her the morning before what sorts of things she could eat but she never really answered -- instead she went on about she used to weigh 200 lbs, and dyes and prepared foods are killing people. But apparently - not her children :? After breakfast I chatted w/ the Florida trio for a while and we watched a bit of the 3rd day of the Isner vs. Mahut Wimbledon match. By then it was too late to get one of the early coaches to Butchart Gardens. I walked over to the bus station and caught one sometime after 10:00 - I think about 10:20/10:30. Sat next to a very nice woman from Anchorage. We chatted all the way to the Gardens and said we'd look for each other during the day to maybe have lunch together or something. Well - after getting inside the gardens any thought of that was totally out the window. The place was <u>packed</u>.I cannot imagine what it would be like after Canadian schools break for the summer and there are more families on holiday. The gardens are absolutely amazing. Almost overwhelming in ways - but really, <B>REALLY</B> beautiful. Sort of like Disneyland for gardeners -- by that I mean not a blade of grass out of place, not a spent bloom to be seen, not a single bit of trash anywhere. One of the Fodorites who posted on my planning thread mentioned that Butchart wasn't his favorite because there "are too many plants" and I now sort of see how one could feel that way. But I still loved the place. Not totally sure what parts I enjoyed most. The first view of the sunken garden does take your breath away. There are a couple of routes down into this vast area built w/i the old quarry - and from up top it was amazing to see literally hundreds of people filing down single file like trails of ants. I honestly don't know how they'd manage the crowds in high season. The roses garden was beautiful of course (and even more packed than the sunken gardens). Every rose was clearly named - which wasn't the case in some of the other areas. The whole rose garden was surrounded by really tall/lush lupines so it was an absolute riot of colour. Somehow, even w/ the thousands of people - they never really got in the way of enjoying the views/flowers. The Japanese Garden was a bit quieter and nearby is the cove w/ all the boats and really pretty views. They have a plant identification centre and I popped by there assuming I'd have to try to describe the flowers that I didn't know -- but they had a display w/ about 75 small vases each holding single blooms or leaves and w/ the Latin and common name of each. Both plants I wanted info about happened to be there and the woman staffing the counter was very helpful. I circled most of the Gardens but not everything in about 2 hours so decided to stop for lunch in the main restaurant (and giving upon ever finding my Alaskan friend). The place was booked up and the group ahead of me was told there would be an approx 25-30 minute wait. But for some reason when I next stepped up to the hostess, she said they could seat me as soon as they finished setting a table (?). I ended up out on the open air terrace (where I wanted to be in the first place since it overlooks the Rose Garden, Italian Gdn, a big lawn and the water in the distance). For a moment I was the only one sitting out there - but w/i about 10 minutes 5 other tables were occupied. It was the PERFECT place to sit!. I started w/ a glass of champagne (see a trend here :) ) and had a sort of roasted veg pannini w/ portobello mushroom, asparagus, sundried tomatoes, arugula and some sort of cheese. It was absolutely delicious. Followed by a creme brulee, which I didn't totally finish but was tasty. After lunch I wandered around for about another hour and made a second trek through the rose garden. Unfortunately -- I'd had a very slightly ingrown toenail that was rubbing against the end of my shoe. It was a bit annoying but not very sore -- UNTIL - a little boy who was standing on a small rock posing for his father, decided at that moment to jump backwards off the rock and land squarely on that toe. <B>OMG</B> it felt like I'd been stabbed in my foot! The poor kid - he didn't even realize anyone was behind him and I'm sure I scared the bejeezus out of him. I was really hobbled so I hit the gift shop and then caught the coach back to central Victoria. In all I spent about 4.5-5 hours in the gardens and that was a good amount of time - the crowds were a bit much in places but all in all a totally enjoyable day - except for the foot. From the bus station I (slowly) walked back to Marketa's. Then remembered I wanted to hit an ATM before checking out the next morning. I got a metal bowl out of the kitchen and filled it w/ hot water and salt and soaked my toe/foot for about 20 mins before walking to the convenience store just down the street where there is an ATM. I asked them where the nearest pharmacy was and (just like asking directions in England) "Oh it's not far, just down two blocks, around the corner and you can't miss it". Well that 2 block walk was really about 6 blocks and my foot was killing me. But find it I did, bought outgro and bandaids and walked back to Marketta's. I decided I didn't want to walk far for dinner and the convenience shop had some decent looking sandwiches. Knowing the shop closes at 9PM and it only being about 6:45 I decide to soak my foot a bit more, watch some telly and hit the store around 8-8:30. Well - next thing I know -- I open my eyes and the clock radio shines 9:20. Slept a good 2 hours! So dinner that night was a banana from the kitchen and plain chocolate digestive biscuits from my stash. next: Friday: Chinatown, a little shopping, lunch at the Empress, and riding co-pilot on the seaplane back to Seattle |
<B>June 25: Chinatown, a little shopping, lunch at the Empress, and riding co-pilot on the seaplane back to Seattle</B>
Got a good (great actually) night's sleep and my foot felt a little better. Another really good Marketa's breakfast. Not sure b'fasts I had which mornings - but the three were 1) regular cooked breakfast w/ 2 poached eggs, bacon, sausage, toast, fresh fruit; 2) Bagel/cream cheese, smoked salmon, fruit; and 3) Eggs Benedict, fruit. I packed, paid my bill and made arrangement to leave my bag in the residents lounge and pick it up later. It was the 4th straight day of glorious weather and I walked back to the harbor, by to the Kenmore seaplane terminal just to see where exactly I had to check in and then to Chinatown. Probably this was the least memorable thing my whole time in Victoria.Not sure exactly what I was expecting - and there is a decorative gateway similar to San Francisco, London and other places. And maybe w/ more time and a less gimpy foot I would have found more of interest. Looked into a few shops and bought some tea but that was really about all. I walked back towards the harbor and down Government street and stopped in Lush and the Bay department store. Picked up a couple of small things in Lush that I haven't seen in my local shops and was tempted by several things in the Bay (assuming that is a shortening of Hudson Bay???) as they were having some terrific sales. But I resisted. It was about 11AM and I walked back to the Empress -- there is an amazing fire opal & diamond ring in the jewelery shop that keeps calling my name and I had to check it out once more just to make sure I could live w/o it :). Thought I might eat in the Bengal Room - very nice decor and I'd read the menus earlier and they looked interesting. But - it was such a gorgeous day, I really wanted a water view and preferably outside seating. The Empress Veranda would be seating at 11:30 so I sat on a bench out by the street/harbor and waited maybe 10 mins just soaking up the sun and sea air. I ordered a ploughman's - and ya know - I can't remember if I had another glass of champagne or an ale -- it all sort of blurs after a while ;) The ploughman's was "Empress-fied" w/ a sort apricot puree instead of Branston Pickle - things like that. Three wonderful cheeses, sort of mild chorizo-like sausages, cold cuts, salad, toasted bread and crackers. It was excellent. It was a little cool on the the terrace but not uncomfortable and my cardigan was all I really needed. They do have those gas heaters and each chair has a lap rug draped over the back just in case. I was supposed to check in for the 3PM flight at 2:00 and it was nearing 1:00, so I walked through the rose garden once more and sat a while. If my foot wasn't sore-ish, walking from the Empress to Marketa's and back to Kenmore wouldn't have been bad at all -- my bag was small and light and wheeled. But I had CA$ left (not many though :D ) so I went to the taxi queue at the front of the Empress and explained I want to go to the B&B, have him wait while I got my bag and then on to Kenmore. We were half way up Superior St when the cabbie realized he hadn't flipped the meter. He did it then, but I knew it had to be at least $3 or $4 short. At Marketa's the front door is kept locked so I showed the cab drive where he could turn around at the rear and I went up the back steps and into the kitchen. The young folks who had been holding down the fort were all in there chatting to a woman w/ a definite arty/semi-exotic look to her. This was Marketa herself and while we only spoke sort of in passing she seemed really nice and I can see her personality in the place. Picked up the bag, back down the stairs to the waiting cab and on to the seaplane terminal. I said he should tack some extra on to the fare to cover the meter shortage, but he wouldn't. So I just topped up my tip to make up for it. I was a little early but what the heck - you need to check in early for an international flight, eh? It was then I found out the flight was delayed due to bad weather in Seattle. Huh? It was glorious in Victoria but I guess so foggy in Seattle that their schedule had been affected all day long. It was now clear enough in Seattle but the domino effect was still being felt. They estimated 4PM but would know more around 3:15-ish. OK what to do now - the plan was land at Lake Union at 4:00, take the Kenmore shuttle to SeaTac arrive at 5PM and fly out on Southwest at 6:40. I <i>might</i> make it - but not if the flight was delayed past 4:00. The Kenmore agent printed out my SW earlybird boarding pass so I wouldn't have to deal w/ that on the rush and I called Southwest to ask about later flights. That was the last flight of the day to SMF - so it we'd either make the 6:40 or I'd be staying a night in Seattle (which wouldn't have been a disaster) I walked around for about an hour and returned at 3:00 to see i there was an update. Allis well - they were now looking at a 3:30-3:40 departure. The plane came in just about 3:15 and the captain did his paperwork/loo break/whatever and we were ready to board @ 3:35. He asked if anyone would like to sit up front w/ him? Moi!!! What a kick! This was a single engine, 10 passenger float plane. The bags are stacked in the rear w/ a net enclosure and there is one seat on each side of the aisle. No problem reaching the overheads - there are no overheads :). We had 8 passengers plus the cutest dog. She was likely a Papillon/chiuaua/something else cute mix and was coming home to Seattle w/ her 'parents' after spending a month on their boat. She wasn't in a carrier/kennel - just walked around and got cuddles from everyone and then laid down on the floor before we took off. Takeoff was very VERY smooth. The weather was still beautiful and the water/islands/mountain views were amazing. But as we got closer to Seattle it did get dark/gloomy/high fog. The landing was pretty bumpy but not scary or anything. They do come in fast, that's for sure. The only iffy thing about the whole flight is boarding/disembarking. It is via a 5 step ladder w/ VERY narrow rungs and you have to step down from the dock and then up into the plane, and the reverse when you land. I was OK -- but I can see it would be difficult for some. We landed about 4:45 and I though "no worries - they said the shuttle would take off as soon as I cleared Customs". Not. They had to wait from another couple who was coming in on another delayed flight. The Driver said 'not to worry' - or words to that effect, 'the traffic isn't bad'. We finally left about 5:15 and the traffic was HORRIBLE (this was Friday afternoon after all, how could it be anything else). But really - once we got outside of Seattle proper it opened up and we did make up some time. He dropped me at Southwest about 6:10-ish maybe a tick earlier, and I figured if security was awful I could beg to jump the queue. I rush in and . . . nobody was there. Well, not NO body but practically on one. There were all these ropes for a looooong security line - and there <u>exactly 4 people</u> in front of me. At 6PMon a Friday night??? It still took me about 5 mins to get through because I kept setting off the alarm and stripping down and trying again. I always wear a <i>very</i> narrow 14carat gold bangle and never once has it set off the machine - nowhere in the world. But it did this time. Oh well, we got that sorted out and I made it to my gate in w/ time to spare - even had time to but a croisandwich from one of the foodshops. Flight was totally uneventful and w/ my low number boarding pass I got my choice of seats. Landed on time and since I didn't have to wait for luggage I was across the terminal and in my car in less than 5 minutes. Four fabulous days in Victoria (w/ a bit of Seattle as a bonus). It was a little short - I think 5 days would be about perfect for Victoria - more if you rent a car and explore more of the island. But I managed to see a lot and eat a lot and sleep a lot and walk my legs off. |
What a wonderful short getaway. And isn't it wonderful when the timing works out like your does? (although I guess if a person was high strung they might have been a little stressed)
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Oh - I was a <i>little</i> stressed -- but was still jazzed from the float plane flight. As I described it on another thread - that was an E ticket (for those old enough to know what an E Ticket is)
So I was in a great mood- and the stress level never got <i>TOO</i> high ;) |
Glad you enjoyed your visit to Victoria, Janis. Seems like that was the right choice! You packed in a lot... and taking the two different modes of transportation there and back was a great idea.
I've been away in Alberta and just got back this evening, so I read your report in one fell swoop. It makes me want to head over to the Island myself. |
You had a fabulous trip janisj! Thanks for the great read! You are quite talented describing all the characters you met along your journey. And yes, I saw a 'pattern' and good for you! It's 5 o'clock somewhere. :)
(suze) thanks for the clarity regarding the Lightrail. I thought we might have missed it since we just ran out of SeaTac and grabbed the first cab. |
janis - I really enjoyed your report. Now you have to come back and spend longer - see the rest of the Island!
By the way your comment about "E Ticket" I think it should be those who are "young" enough to know what that is!!! |
janisj
On your next visit try to get down to the west coast. there aren't many seascapes like it. Huge pines thrown up on the beaches like matchsticks. Wildlife everywhere - in and out of the sea but too many dark shapes in the woods. We had a week in Sooke - second best week we ever lived. Loved Victoria - the Savannah of the east. More character in its' little finger than Vancouver could ever muster. |
Very much enjoyed reading your TR Janisj. You sure packed a lot into 4 days.
All the younger members of my family make it a point to stay at Markettas and they love it. My nephew is an artist, and she and him get along famously. 2 Years ago he stayed a week with her while he set up an exhibition of his work at The Empress and she was of invaluable assistance to him. Speaking of the Empress, did you visit the Native art shop in the concourse level (1 below ground) ? It has the most amazing contemporary Native art I've ever seen. I saw a few pieces that I'd love to add to my small collection (those animated masks that incorporate native spiritual icons), but my Lotto numbers didn't come up that day. Butchart gardens is an unbelieveable treasure and your description of it did fair justice. I'm an avid gardener myself and was in 7th heaven for the 6 hours we were there. Did you see the neatly laid out squares of checkered material on the grass lawn with packed wicker baskets set upon each, waiting for those who had pre-ordered a picnic lunch ? What a cool idea ! We went in July when the summer blooms were in full swing and then stayed on for the firework show at 10.00pm, one of the most unique I have ever seen. Everyone sits on a grassy slope in front of a lake, and on perfect cue, the music starts up and these mechanical contraptions attached to high wires move out from among the trees surrounding the lake, while automated boats and canoes glide across the lake, all bearing lit fireworks that go off in time to the music, and are reflected in the lake. Stunning. Next time, and since you seem like an adventurous sort, who invites excitement and interesting company if she doesn't follow it :) , rent a car and drive to Tofino. Its an easy 3 hour drive and the scenery - both en route and when you get there - is stupendous. Thanks for the report. M |
Taggie: "<i>taking the two different modes of transportation there and back was a great idea.</i> That was sort of an accident. Someone (I think Gardyloo) suggested flying - I didn't even know it was a possibility.
The timings were better to ferry over and fly back. Ended up giving me about 4 extra hours in Victoria -- PLUS the E Ticket factor :) SOCALOC: If you get to Seattle again - the light rail is just terrific. Only problem was the recorded lady kept announcing the wrong stations. The poor kid (marine haircut/chatty guy) was really nervous about that. Guess the driver couldn't just turn her off?? Traveler69: You gave me so many good tips - Thanks bunches. Markrosy: That sounds amazing. Yes - I'd really like to go back and explore more of the area. Mathieu: Staying for the fireworks was on the radar - but it would have been such a loooong day and once I hurt my foot I gave that up. And yes, the Native art shop was more like a museum than a 'store'. Some unbelievable pieces. |
Janisj,
I enjoyed reading the rest of your report. I'm glad you seemed to appreciate Butchart's Gardens as much as I did. I love some of your phrasing of your visuals (i.e, "a riot of colour") and I equally found the first sight of the Sunken Garden absolutely breathtaking. You know, somehow I feel that for Butchart's that the word "Gardens" strikes me as a bit misleading: to my eyes, a bit of an understatement or somehow not quite pinpointing what the experience is? Sure, there are "gardens" but the experience felt to me more than a "garden". However, I struggle to find another way of describing the place; Butchart's Quarry of Floral and Boreal Majesty for example doesn't quite work and sounds a bit over-the-top LOL ;). Ah well, I suppose "garden" will do. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. Best wishes, Daniel |
7 Sea otters, 3 Deer, 6 purple huge starfish, 50 seals, one black bear, a racoon, hedgehog, 3 bald eagles, crabs the size of footballs - that's what we saw in 3 hours on a walk from our cottage in Sooke.
The casual eating (ie pub food) was the best we have ever had. |
janis Im so happy you had such a good time. I will be calling on you for our next London sojourn!!
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Hello Janisj,
Glad you enjoyed your trip. We did a similar trip in 2006 covering Seattle, Vancouver and Victoria. Our favorite places were the Royal BC Museum, Butchart Gardens and the Queen Elizabeth Park in Vancouver which is really stunning too. DH took a photo in the Italian gardens of Butchart gardens by this glass globe to make it look like we were stuck in the globe with the gardens surrounding us--a fabulous photo. In Vancouver, the Queen Elizabeth park is free and the landscaping is just amazing. There was a bride and groom there at the time taking wedding photos. I am trying to settle back in from our European adventure. Will write my trip report of Paris and London soon. Thanks for all your advice. |
Hi Janisj,
Your trip report was inspiring. You have given me some good ideas and I hope to be able to follow in your footsteps one day. I will be spending an evening in Victoria in the beginning of September since it is one of the ports of call on the Alaskan cruise I am taking. I think I could get a good taste of the place and plan to walk around. Thank you very much |
Janisj, you were right in my territory (Seattle) and I didn't know! And furthermore we're just back from a trip to California, flying into/out of Sacramento.
I've really enjoyed your helpful posts about Britain. It would have been nice to organize a slightly bigger GTG. I love the BC museum. It's one of my favorites along with the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver. However, I've kind of boycotted Victoria in late years since they insist on dumping raw sewage into the strait. |
I loved the float plane adventure too -
glad you enjoyed Victoria- I have family who live there so visit at least once a year. Its a beautiful city and sounds like you did a great job seeing most of it. |
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