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17 days in Newfoundland - a good start!

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17 days in Newfoundland - a good start!

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Old Jul 6th, 2014, 12:09 PM
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17 days in Newfoundland - a good start!

I'm going to try to keep this trip report to the highlights and basic traveler information, and insert links to our blog for the more general commentary. We'll see how I do on that!

We have wanted to visit Newfoundland for a long time - it's been on our bucket list and is our 10th province.

I started searching Aeroplan in March and discovered quite good availability for seats from Toronto to St. John's in June, which worked well for us. It started out as an extended weekend in St. John's and turned into 17 nights and almost 4,000 kilometres.

And it was a fabulous trip!

Went back and forth on the itinerary - here is the final - comments follow

- 4 nights in Witless Bay as a base to visit the Avalon Peninsula and St. John's
- 3 nights in Rocky Harbour to experience Gros Morne National Park
- 2 nights near L'Anse Aux Meadows to see the Viking Settlement
- one night on the road (Grand Falls-Windsor)
- 3 nights in Joe Batt's Arm/Fogo Island (stayed in a cottage/visited the new Inn)
- 4 nights in Port Rexton/Trinity area

I wouldn't change one aspect of the itinerary now that we're back - it was perfect for us. A few comments:

• we chose to stay outside of St. John's (but not very far - Witless Bay to St. John's is about 25 minutes and easy driving.....about the same as us driving to the Skydome from where we live in Toronto). We went back and forth to St. John's as easily (easier!) as we drive around Toronto
• we don't mind long driving sprints. We had two - Witless Bay to Rocky Harbour (700 km) and L'Anse Aux Meadows to Grand Falls-Windsor (similar) and then several 3 to 4 hour drives. Driving was easy in Newfoundland so long as you watched for potholes and moose - more info about that later
• We prefer to stay in one place and do day trips rather than stay single nights and keep moving. We will do day trips up to 90 minutes in one direction


Travel Basics:

Air:

We flew Air Canada from Toronto on Aeroplan points --- it was a great use of our points in terms of value. 25,000 points each plus total fees of $130. I've come to realize that Aeroplan might be a better deal for short haul versus long haul.

Flights were fine - a funny thing happened when we were waiting for the flight to depart for Toronto....but I'll save that until the end.

Car:

I had read that the first thing you should do when you decide to go to Newfoundland is nail down your car rental. I looked at all the obvious sites and landed on Thrifty. 17 nights for a Corolla was about $900, then when we got there the additional driver charge was $11/day (yes a rip off but still cheaper than I had seen elsewhere). So all in it was about $1,100. We were very happy with the Corolla - didn't need a 4WD.

Accommodation:

We prefer self catering accommodation whenever possible for the convenience of having a frig/coffee maker and more space....and we're not B&B people (don't like dragging suitcases upstairs, etc). Newfoundland has a fantastic array of accommodation called "Efficiency Units" -- one bedroom suites with well equipped kitchens, easy access, great value and spotlessly clean. I set a nightly budget of under $100 CAD and was able to keep to that for all locations except Fogo (for which we chose to spend more).

Clothing/other prep:

We knew that the last two weeks of June could be dodgy weather - and we were right. We had some brilliant sunny days and some bloody cold, rainy ones! Before we left we said to ourselves - "it's going to rain for 17 days" and then any day it didn't was a bonus. We had lots of bonuses! I think the key is having the right clothing (which we did) and the right attitude about the weather (ditto).

We had good waterproof coats (not water resistant) and shoes and many layers of clothing. The other advantage to the Efficiency Units we stayed in was the general availability of laundry facilities, so we didn't have to carry too much (although we did carry too much because we had a rental car.....it's that last minute "oh throw it in.....we've got a car" syndrome!)

The Newfoundland Tourist Board has a fabulous site and app - made the planning really easy.

Wireless coverage - for Canadians if you're on the Rogers Network forget it. Their coverage is limited to St. John's and Cornerbrook. (If you're American check who your carrier roams to). We are on Rogers so I bought a Bell SIM card for my unlocked iPhone - Bell's coverage is good (LTE and 3G) - there were a few NO SERVICE spots but it's a big province with few people.

We dedicate this trip report to Kodi - a Fodorite who passed this year. She loved Newfoundland and was with us the entire time.....everytime we saw a butterfly.

More to follow - with links to the blog
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Old Jul 6th, 2014, 01:14 PM
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One of my favorite trips/places. Bookmarking to follow along.
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Old Jul 6th, 2014, 01:34 PM
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I can't wait!
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Old Jul 6th, 2014, 01:42 PM
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Off to a great start, pulling us in with tempting tidbits of things to come! I can't wait, too.
I need to get out a map and see where all these places are. I'm shamefully unfamiliar with Canadian provinces.
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Old Jul 6th, 2014, 01:58 PM
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Looking forward to this. Kodi actually planned out an entire trip for us to Newfoundland, but we didn't go.
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Old Jul 6th, 2014, 04:28 PM
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Really looking forward to your comprehensive trip report. Very happy to hear that you had a wonderful trip and, I believe, became another person who loves Newfoundland almost as much as I do.
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Old Jul 6th, 2014, 05:33 PM
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Thanks all - I'm going to try to make this hybrid trip report work - that is the combo of my report here plus our blog.

First up - Witless Bay for 4 nights at the Witless Bay Suites

http://www.witlessbaysuites.com/index.html

This was perfect for us - a great one bedroom suite, thoughtfully equipped and blazing fast wi-fi (I had to do a bit of work). The owner Sheila was incredibly accommodating of our 10:30pm arrival.

Nearby was a lovely cafe/breakfast spot - the Irish Loop Cafe - delicious breakfast.

From here we did a number of day trips - a boat trip to see the puffins with unexpected (early) whales; a drive around the Irish Loop and a couple of trips into St. John's.

Here's a link to our blog showing the apartment and pics from our boat ride. We chose O'Brien's out of Bay Bulls (about a 10 minute drive). It was great.....but I think they're all probably good.

http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/n...r-arrival.html

That night we had dinner at the Sapphire Bar and Pub just up the road from O'Brien's (they also have a restaurant but it closed early). This was our first night in Newfoundland.....the place didn't look like much from the outside but when you walk in the welcome is incredible. We had delicious fish and chips (see pic in the link above); sang along with the entertainment and couldn't leave until we had a complete round of hugs......with staff (Hi Carly!) and patrons. A marvelous introduction for the next 17 days.

It was a beautiful first day - weather (and every other way) wise. The next morning dawned........well, you couldn't see the dawn the fog was so thick. We set off to explore the Irish Loop road but quickly turned back (considering we couldn't see two feet ahead of us).

So....off to St. John's. The road was a bit clearer and there are fine restaurants there.

Following blog post combines two trips to St. John's (mainly food). We recommend both restaurants - Raymond's and Aqua. (lots of detail in the blog)

http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/n...ting-well.html


Otherwise in St. John's we visited Signal Hill - with great views - and Cape Spear (no view that day). On the foggy day we went to The Rooms (museum).

The next day the weather was still wet but not quite as foggy. Our plans to hike parts of the East Coast Trail had vanished by now (of course the colduphere family would have pressed on!) so we decided to attempt to drive the Irish Loop again.

So glad we did - the weather cleared up as we headed south and it was a lovely drive.

We had hoped to take the hike out to the fossil beds at Mistaken Point which is a wonderful site to see some of the oldest complex life forms. You have to reserve a tour with the Park Ranger to be driven out to the site then hike out about an hour to see the fossils. Unfortunately the harsh winter wreaked havoc with the road so the tours had not started yet. It was disappointing but we really enjoyed the Interpretive Centre and would recommend it if you can't take the tour.

http://www.env.gov.nl.ca/env/parks/wer/r_mpe/


http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/n...rish-loop.html

We had a great time in the Avalon Peninsula and St. John's - next up - Gros Morne National Park
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Old Jul 6th, 2014, 07:58 PM
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Looking forward to details. Didn't see anything on L'Anse Aux Meadows in your blog, so gently persuading you for details, please.
Loved the tasting menu pix and details. What a coup to get that. You two must be super charming. And you weren't even wearing my hat! (that's to let you know who I am!)
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 03:09 AM
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VG - Richard is doing the blog this week so it will catch up with the trip report. Lots of L'Anse Aux Meadows details to follow!.

"Our" hat was replaced during that period with storm weather gear!
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 08:10 AM
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Wonderful report, Liz! Newfoundland is on my bucket list too. My Richard travelled there quite often for a couple of years as a consultant but I've never been, even with my Maritime roots.
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 12:26 PM
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I am reading your TR and blog with great interest. I love the header photo in your blog of the Fogo Island punts at Joe Batt's Arm. Was there last year just prior to the Great Fogo Island Punt Race to There and Back.

Can't wait for the next installment.
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 12:41 PM
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We left Witless Bay at 6:30am for the 700km drive to Rocky Harbour. Had we not stopped for me to do a 2 hour conference call the drive would have taken 6 and 1/2 hours. (bear in mind we don't stop very much.....well, never unless we need gas or I give Richard the evil eye)

Sidebar comment - I had to be on a conference call that day - it couldn't be avoided, and I couldn't be sure of the wireless connection if I tried to do it as we were driving (and glad I didn't as there are a few No Service areas on the Trans Canada Highway). So as we neared Gander I looked for somewhere I could sit quietly and be on the call. As we drove in we saw Hotel Gander. I hoped I could tuck myself in a corner of the lobby but the lobby was small and I would have disturbed others. I explained the situation to the 2 desk clerks hoping they had a suggestion....."My darling - we'll just put you in a conference room". Along came someone with a key and they opened up a large conference room for me, and brought me a jug of water. For. Free. Yea, that happens everywhere! (I have a real soft spot for Gander after the events of 9/11 which was reinforced when I read the book "The Day the World Came to Town" while we were in Newfoundland). Thank you Hotel Gander!

We were looking forward to Gros Morne - I considered staying at Cow Head, Norris Point or Rocky Harbour - chose the latter in the end and were very happy with it (Norris Point would have been fine too - Cow Head was too far north for what we wanted to do)

Stayed at another great "efficiency unit" in Rocky Harbour - we had a two bedroom unit (we were booked for a one but they only had a two so they gave it to us at the same price). It was spotlessly clean and the kitchen was really well equipped.

http://baysidegrosmorne.com/

We wanted to take the Western Brook Pond boat tour - it's about a half hour drive north of Rocky Harbour; then you hike in 45 minutes or so for a boat ride through a glacial fjord - beautiful! But it was canceled due to fog.

http://www.bontours.ca/tour/western-...ond-boat-tour/

Instead we took a 2 hour boat cruise from the dock in Norris Point (same company) - it was pouring but we still saw beautiful bald eagles and other birds......and the crew was great fun

http://www.bontours.ca/tour/bonne-bay-boat-tour/

Next to the above cruise departure point is a small aquarium run by the Federal Government - they have tours on the hour and we found it quite interesting (and it was dry inside!)

http://www.bonnebay.ca/Pages/default.aspx

We also wanted to hike the Tablelands (but - you guessed it - it was raining too hard!). We went to the Discovery Centre on the south side of the bay - it was very well done. In fact we were really impressed with all the interpretive centres we visited in Newfoundland.

Restaurants - we had two great meals at a restaurant in Rocky Harbour called Java Jack's - including an unscripted tasting menu that rivaled our meal at Raymond's in St. John's.

They don't offer the tasting menu on a regular basis - they'd never done one until we asked.

(blog link with meal pics below)

In Norris Point we had a lovely lunch at Justin Thyme cafe - the menu is quite adventuresome.

http://justinthymebeanandbistro.ca/

In Rocky Harbour there is a well known evening event called "Anchor's Aweigh" - lots of local music and laughs. (we didn't see it - it didn't work for our schedule -- tasting menus trump shows for us!) One of the performers was part of the crew on the boat cruise and they performed a few numbers - I'm sure it's great fun based on that

http://www.bontours.ca/anchors-aweigh/

I hope I don't sound unnecessarily negative about the rain during our time in Gros Morne....yes it POURED for most of the time - but we had a great time! Met lovely people, had some great excursions and delicious meals - doesn't get better.

We left Rocky Harbour at 7am for L'Anse Aux Meadows. We drove in rain and fog for most of the drive but even so were there by 11am (I thought the drive would take more time - assumed it was a two lane road and traffic would slow us down. No traffic!)

Next posting - L'Anse Aux Meadows. My Icelandic roots were showing!

Here's a link to our Gros Morne blog - lots of pics of food!

http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/n...onal-park.html
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 12:49 PM
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laverendyre - that is so funny you comment on that shot. I picked it up from the Newfoundland Tourist Board site photo gallery (assuming it would be OK to use for our blog) without knowing where it was taken.

As we came around the corner in Joe Batt's Arm I said - "stop - that's our blog pic"! We have a lot of pics of our own now!

Also we met a delightful fellow who has come in 3rd for the last few years - he took us around and showed us various punts. Lots more to come about Fogo! Thanks for following along.
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Old Jul 8th, 2014, 08:50 AM
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Elizabeth--I'll look forward to your report on Fogo Island. I hope you spent some time in Tilting.
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Old Jul 8th, 2014, 09:44 AM
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laverendrye - we did, with a lovely man from Tilting.
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Old Jul 9th, 2014, 06:37 AM
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Great report Elizabeth. You've given us some new places to stay.

I'd like to tell my story about the short hike around Signal Hill but work is getting in the way. To be revisited.
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Old Jul 9th, 2014, 07:03 AM
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Thanks Elizabeth. I also have Newfoundland on my bucket list as my parents were born in Newfoundland. However they moved to Vancouver before I was born so I have had little contact with Newfoundland. I did have one trip there as a 12 year old which gave me life long memories.
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Old Jul 9th, 2014, 10:56 AM
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Elizabeth please excuse this small story. The first time I hiked the trail between Signal Hill and Battery Road I came to a section I thought was very dangerous - you had to almost step across a gap in the trail with 80 feet of nothingness below before you would hit The Narrows (the inlet into St John's harbour.

When I got home I spoke to a friend who was responsible for Canada's historic sites, Signal Hill being one of them. She phoned her regional director in St John's to inform her that she had been reliably informed that a section of the trail was dangerous.

The regional director, who reported to my friend, said something like "you tell your little central Canadian friend that we will worry about what is dangerous and what isn't". Nothing was done.

But I was happy to see during a much later trip that chains had been installed on the side of the cliff so that hikers have something to hang on to as they cross that section of the trail.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2014, 01:13 PM
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We're determined to finish off the blog and trip report this week!

Just posted a blog entry for the Viking site at L'Anse aux Meadows

http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/n...ing-sites.html

To summarize the details for those doing travel planning to Newfoundland - we found the drive from Rocky Harbour to L'Anse aux Meadows really easy - 4 hours despite a lot of rain and fog. We had planned to stop along the way but the weather was too poor.

I went back and forth deciding whether to stay near the Viking Settlement or in St. Anthony which is about 40km away. I knew we would be taking a boat cruise from St. Anthony but in the end chose to stay near the site at another great efficiency unit

http://www.snorricabins.com/

I'm so happy we stayed near the site. We arrived at about noon (after stopping for a good breakfast at Northern Delight Restaurant on the road in). We went over to the Parks Canada interpretive centre that afternoon and spent about 3 hours there. The free tour is very good. By then it was too foggy to see the other nearby Private interpretive Centre so we went off to dinner at the Norsemen restaurant nearby.

http://www.valhalla-lodge.com/restaurant.htm

The food was very good - a young chef using local ingredients in freshly prepared dishes.

The next morning we drove to St. Anthony for a boat cruise - stopped for an early lunch at the Lightkeeper's Cafe

http://www.lightkeepersvikingfeast.com/

Then out for a 2 hour boat cruise - while chilly it was fantastic as this year was a banner year for icebergs (no whales as it was too early that far north).
Pics of many, many bergs on this blog posting

http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/n...ther-bits.html

Highly recommend this company

http://www.discovernorthland.com/

(near the Viking site there was lots of signs for Iceberg tours - locals taking people out in small boats - that would have been fun too)

Upon our return to L'Anse aux Meadows after the boat cruise we returned to the Private tourist site and enjoyed it very much (pics of it in the blog link above)

We were very happy we did the long sprint to L'Anse aux Meadows. In retrospect I wish I had more seriously considered taking the ferry to Labrador although I can't find the two days in our itinerary it would have taken. Oh well - a reason to return.

For those thinking of visiting - it could be done in one night if you leave Gros Morne early as we did at 7am. That gets you to L'Anse aux Meadows by late morning which gives you the full afternoon to see the site. No St. Anthony the next day, but if the Viking site is important to you, then I would say do it.
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Old Aug 25th, 2014, 05:22 AM
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Your trip report is inspiring me. Every time we think about going we chicken out because of the weather. It's not so much that the weather in Newfoundland would bother me, as much as we would be missing the short period of nice weather at home.
Your trip looks looked great fun. Is June the best month to go? We would have to go in July or August.
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