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What to do in Picton, Dunedin & Manapouri

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Old Nov 6th, 2016, 10:20 AM
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What to do in Picton, Dunedin & Manapouri

My son and daughter (ages 28 and 25) and I will be traveling to the South Island in mid-January 2017. We've pretty much booked the travel and accommodations, and now we're deciding what we want to do when we're there.

Here's our itinerary:
Arrive Auckland from SFO, fly to Wellington same day, spend the night in Wellington
Ferry from Wellington to Picton, stay 3 nights
Ferry from Picton to Wellington, fly to Dunedin, rent car
3 nights at farm stay on Otago Peninsula
Drive rental car to Manapouri, stay 3 nights
Drive rental car to Queenstown, stay 1 night
Fly from Queenstown to Auckland, stay 1 night
Fly back to US

We're most interested in seeing wildlife, especially penguins, and a wine tour while in Picton. We'd rather stick with small tours and avoid crowds when possible (though I know it's high tourist season...) Any recommendations for good small-tour operators and particular excursions?

Thanks!
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Old Nov 6th, 2016, 11:49 AM
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<<Ferry from Wellington to Picton, stay 3 nights
Ferry from Picton to Wellington, fly to Dunedin, rent car>>

Really? Have you considered flying from Nelson to Dunedin instead?

The ferry ride isn't cheap and takes a lot of time, taking it back to Wellington seems a waste of valuable time IMO.

Curious why you're going to Wellington at all if you don't plan to spend any time there? Flying right to the SI from Auckland makes more sense, as you're not spending any time on the North Island.

To me, the ferry is just another mode of transport. A slow, lumbering one at that. Fine once, but twice in three days?

Do you like to walk? If so, I strongly suggest you take the water taxi from Picton to Ship Cove, walk the 15 km on the Queen Charlotte Track to Furneaux Lodge, then take the water taxi back to Picton.

Barring that, taking the mail boat into the sounds will also give you a nice taste of the area. Although this may not appeal since you'll be taking the ferry twice.

I can suggest other walks in the area if you're interested.

There's a nice museum aboard a ship in Picton - the Edwin Fox.

The wineries of Blenheim are only 25 minutes away. Most of the tour operators are small, no need to worry about crowds really.

Curious about the three night stay in Manapouri too - I've done this myself, but I had specific reasons for staying there - it's an odd plan for a first time visitor.

Manapouri is a a very small settlement and where the Doubtful Sound cruise leaves from, but, not much else on offer unless you like to hike, or if you're using it as a base to explore some lesser know areas on the Southern Scenic Route, or as an alternative to staying in Te Anau.

Do you plan to take the Doubtful Sound Cruise? Do you plan to drive to Milford Sound on one of the Manapouri days?
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Old Nov 6th, 2016, 11:33 PM
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Have you been to the South Island before?

For Dunedin, I recommend the Elm Peninsula Encounters Wildlife Tour. Have a look at reviews.
https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Attrac...th_Island.html
This is a small group tour. I've taken it twice. I think there were about 8 people on the tour. In summer they'll have two tours going out each afternoon, but you won't be looking at the wildlife at the same time.

The tour starts in the afternoon and runs about 5 hours. Some walking uphill is required, unless you opt for the "lite" tour. Try to take the tour on a sunny, dry day. You might want to email them and ask if you need to book ahead. The weather should be okay in late January, but please bring attire for cold, rain, and especially wind. You should pack a snack and some water. You will see Northern Royal Albatrosses, Yellow Eyed Penguins, NZ Sea Lions, NZ Fur Seals, Otago Shags (a type of rare cormorant), and many other birds including Royal Spoonbills. You're coming at a great time for wildlife viewing. Elm's guides are highly knowledgeable.
https://www.elmwildlifetours.co.nz/o...ula-encounters

If you can't get enough of penguins, also visit Penguin Place. In addition to its penguin nesting sites, they also operate a penguin "hospital," where various species of penguins found injured, sick or starving along the Otago Coast are taken for treatment before being re-released into the wild. Your admission partly goes toward funding it. See reviews:
https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Attrac...th_Island.html
You'll explore their large property on camouflaged walking paths and view penguins from hides. If you go here, go on a late afternoon tour as Yellow Eyed Penguins return from the sea in the late afternoon.
http://www.penguinplace.co.nz/

Please keep in mind Yellow Eyed Penguins are solitary and anti-social, so you won't see large groups of them as you would with other penguin species. They are also the world's rarest and most endangered penguin species. There aren't too many on the NZ mainland, only 200 pairs as of 2015. You can read more about them here:
http://www.yellow-eyedpenguin.org.nz/penguins

If you would like to see Little Blue Penguins, I recommend Blue Penguins Pukekura at Taiaroa Head (home of the Northern Albatross Colony). It gets crowded in peak season, so I would go early to get a place up front. Unlike the solitary Yellow Eyed Penguins, the Little Blue Penguins gather offshore in groups ("rafts") then swim ashore together in the early evening, as the last light is on the horizon. Very cute little penguins! Little Blue Penguins can also be found in Australia, but the two species are distinct:
http://www.otago.ac.nz/news/news/otago401801.html
https://bluepenguins.co.nz/

Will you be staying at the farm stay at Allans Beach? If so, Allans Beach is great for wildlife viewing. It's my favorite Otago Peninsula beach, which is best enjoyed at low tide on a sunny day. You might want to visit Sandfly Bay as well, though you'll need to glide down some steep sand dunes. If you need groceries, shop in downtown Dunedin before you drive out to the peninsula, as there are no supermarkets on the peninsula or petrol stations. The New World Market Centre City has the widest choices, though prices might be lower at Pak "n" Save or Countdown. If you go to the New World Centre City, afterwards stop for a quick look at Dunedin's Railway Station before you drive out to the peninsula.

I agree with Melnq8 that you might not want to catch the ferry back to Wellington. But as you wrote that your accommodation are already booked, perhaps no changes can be made to your schedule? She's also noted that you won't have enough time to see Wellington. There's an excellent wildlife sanctuary in Wellington, but you'll probably be too jet-lagged to do more than visit Te Papa National Museum, walk along the waterfront and have a nice early dinner. All the same, here's a link to Zealandia:
https://www.visitzealandia.com/

Also following up on what Melnq8 said about three nights in Manapouri. It's a good base for doing the Doubtful Sound cruise (I recommend the overnight cruise as opposed to the day cruise), but I'd shift one of your three nights to Queenstown (assuming you've never been here before). Because one night in Queenstown is not enough. If you don't like the idea of busy Queenstown, consider stunning Glenorchy. Or Wanaka, which is close to Mt. Aspiring National Park.

One day in Auckland will also be not enough. Auckland also has a wonderful wildlife sanctuary, Tiritiri Matangi in Hauraki Gulf.
https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Attrac...th_Island.html
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Old Nov 7th, 2016, 10:25 AM
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Melnq8 and Diamantina,

Thanks for your suggestions. I know it seems like an atypical itinerary, but we were trying to balance several factors.

We only have 2 weeks because my kids' work schedules don't allow for more. Our main objective is to be outside and see wildlife, and the South Island seemed better for that, hence our decision to essentially skip the North Island. We're not really interested in cities, so again, not any real time in Auckland, Wellington or Queenstown.

We wanted a car in Dunedin, but we didn't want to have to drive right after arriving, so without a car, we thought Picton seemed like a decent place to start, being near to wildlife, walks and wine tours. Getting to Dunedin from Picton was definitely a puzzle, but a second ferry ride seemed more appealing (with the possibility of being 'outside'), rather than taking some other form of land transportation to another airport, where there didn't seem to be any direct flights to Dunedin. As it is, we're hoping to roll out of bed in Picton, catch the ferry, relax on the way, and have time for a leisurely lunch in Wellington before our plane leaves for Dunedin in the late afternoon. Diamantina, thank you for all the details about staying on the Otago Peninsula - very helpful.

And Melnq8, the reasons for the 3 night stay in Manapouri are very much as you guessed: we "like to hike, AND [we're] using it as a base to explore some lesser know areas on the Southern Scenic Route, AND as an alternative to staying in Te Anau."

Finally, we're not really staying in Queenstown proper (not really interested in the busy parts). We were looking for a place near an airport where we could return the car and get back to Auckland easily as we make our way back home. So we're staying at an Airbnb place in Arrow Junction and hoping to get in just a little hiking or walking before we have to head back.

I wish we had more time! But we feel fortunate to get to see at least some of the country. With that more elaborate description of our plans and motivations, if you have any more suggestions for hikes, walks, wildlife encounters, kayaking maybe, we'd love your ideas!

Thanks again!
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Old Nov 7th, 2016, 11:25 AM
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Well, in that case, some hiking suggestions:

Kepler Track - easy access from Manapouri - it's a multi day hike, but also makes a great day hike.

One possibility is to begin at the Te Anau Control Gates, walk to Rainbow Reach, a tame section of the track that follows the Waiau River through beech forest. From Rainbow Reach you can backtrack or catch a shuttle back to the control gates - you'll need to check schedules.

Another option is to begin at Rainbow Reach and walk to Motarua Hutt and return - about 7.75 miles return - expect sandflies.

You can also walk a section of the Milford Track as a day walk - drive from Manapouri to Te Anau Downs, park your car and board the Real Journey's boat (you'll need to book the day before), which will take you to the start of the track at Glade Wharf.

You can then freedom walk a section of the track, backtrack and return to the boat, which will return you to the car park. We managed about 18.5 km this way (return). They also offer guides, but the track is easy to follow, so unless you want the commentary and a slower pace, just freedom walk.

Then of course there's the Routeburn Track, right off Milford Road - the hike to Key Summit is gorgeous on a pretty day.

For some other ideas on off-the-beaten track things to do from Manapouri, you might want to take a look at a trip we took a few years back, doing just that:

http://www.fodors.com/community/aust...-island-nz.cfm

Another idea for Picton - the Snout Track - great views of the sounds from the end:

https://marlboroughnz.com/guides/wal...ut-track#guide

I'd also highly recommend Queen Charlotte Drive from Picton to Havelock:

http://www.newzealand.com/us/feature...arlotte-drive/

Havelock is know for its green lipped mussels.

I will defer to Diamantina and her expertise on Dunedin.
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Old Nov 7th, 2016, 02:38 PM
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If you have time, you'd enjoy the Otago Peninsula's Sandymount Track ( the short walk to Lover's Leap and the Chasm). It's my favorite non-beach walk on the peninsula. Gets windy but offers spectacular views on a clear sunny day.

Hoopers Inlet and Papanui Inlet are good for wading birds, kingfishers, and harrier hawks. Hoopers Inlet is also a great stargazing spot on a clear night.

Here's a link to a brochure for Dunedin walks:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/Documents/par...nd-dunedin.pdf
And a map of the Otago Peninsula:
http://www.dunedin.govt.nz/__data/as...ula-Tracks.pdf

If you are lucky to get sunny clear weather, drive along Highcliff Road for brilliant harbour and ocean views.

If you don't do the Elm Wildlife Peninsula Encounters Tour (you absolutely should), then self-drive to Taiaroa Head too see the Northern Royal Albatrosses. While albatrosses can be seen from boats around the coast of the South Island, this is the only mainland albatross colony in the Southern Hemisphere (the majority of this particular endangered species nest on NZ's Chatham Islands on private farms inaccessible to the public)

Chicks start to hatch at the end of January/beginning of February. If you pay to enter the Albatross Centre, you will see adult albatrosses sitting on nests and possibly socialising. But you must watch them from a glass-enclosed hide with a TV screen that offers a closer look; sometimes the nests are close to the hide, sometimes not so close (the wild birds are free to nest where they like). Otherwise, you can see albatrosses flying above the colony for free. It takes a little patience. It's windy in January, and this is just what the albatrosses need for lift-off.

Here's a link to the Albatross Cam, though no one is "at home" at present.
http://www.doc.govt.nz/royalcam
Here's what you can see after the chicks are born (hide is in the background):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2-d...rXo2h&index=13

Elm would take you to Taiaroa Head, Hoopers Inlet, and a private farm with NZ Sea Lions, Yellow Eyed Penguins and a large NZ Fur Seal Colony populated by females and their pups.

Pukekura Blue Penguins and Elm Wildlife Peninsula Encounters tours must be done on two separate afternoons/nights.

Dunedin is one of the best places on the mainland for observing NZ Sea Lions, the world's most endangered sea lion. Sadly, one young female was shot over the weekend, probably from a boat. It is a devastation loss for the community and for the species. Six other local females are also missing.
https://www.odt.co.nz/news/dunedin/d...-sea-lion-shot
http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/8618...tago-Peninsula
The majority of NZ Sea Lions, once known as Hookers Sea Lions, breed in the
Subantarctic Islands, where the species is in decline.
http://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native...land-sea-lion/

Leaving Dunedin, if you luck out with a nice clear day, take a short walk on the Tunnel Beach Track. When parking your car, don't leave anything of great value in it. Lock your luggage is in the boot/trunk. This is a good rule no matter where you are.
https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Attrac...th_Island.html
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Old Nov 10th, 2016, 03:35 PM
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Melnq8 and Diamantina,

Thank you both very much for your detailed replies! All the options sound like just what we're interested in, so your help will surely make our trip that much more memorable!
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Old Nov 10th, 2016, 10:23 PM
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You're welcome. I hope you have great weather while on the Otago Peninsula When the sun's out and the sky is clear, it's stunning. The other side, or Port Chalmers side, is also wonderful, as is the area from Dunedin to Oamaru (more penguin nesting sites).

If you miraculously find yourself with time to spare, you'd enjoy Dunedin's Orokonui Ecosanctuary (on a sunny day) and nearby Aramoana.
http://orokonui.nz/

Have you thought about the route you would take from Dunedin to Manapouri? In mid-January, the sun rises around 6:10 a.m. then sets at 9:30 p.m. so you have many daylight hours for your drive and time to take a break in-between.
http://rasnz.org.nz/in-the-sky/sun-rise-and-set

From Dunedin to Nugget Point, a supremely beautiful spot in the Catlins, takes 90 minutes, though if you're starting on the Otago Peninsula, it'll take about 20 minutes longer, depending on your route and where you're staying on the peninsula.
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-rec...-tokata-walks/
From Nugget Point, it's about 2 hours 47 minutes to Manapouri, according to the AA Drive Distance Calculator. I assume this would involve backtracking to Balclutha, then driving through Clinton, Gore, Lumsden, Te Anau, then Manapouri (as opposed to following the longer Southern Scenic Route).
http://www.aa.co.nz/travel/time-and-...ce-calculator/
Map:
http://www.newzealand.com/travel/library/p23573_23.pdf
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Old Nov 13th, 2016, 02:40 PM
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We had our political earthquake here in the U.S., but you had the real deal there in New Zealand. Sending our hopes that you're all safe and sound.
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Old Nov 13th, 2016, 07:05 PM
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I'm looking at the special coverage on TVNZ and the images are shocking. Kaikoura is completely cut off with damaged roads north and south. Supplies are running low, communications are cut off.

Interisland ferries were cancelled, Picton and Wellington ferry docks were damaged (but I imagine these will be fixed as soon as possible). There is now a thunderstorm warning.

We are fortunate in that we did not feel the earthquake in Dunedin, and our tsunami warning has been lifted. But NZ in general is seismically active, on the Ring of Fire, so earthquakes can strike almost anywhere.

I felt the political earthquake, too—still feeling it, as I'm a U.S. expat.
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