South Island Suggestions ...
Jul 11th, 2014, 09:46 AM
#1
Original Poster
South Island Suggestions ...
I’m looking to add around 5 or 6 days of vacation to my October/November work-related trip to NZ. We’re thinking about either the west coast of the South Island, or the Marlborough Sounds. This would probably be before—or after—working in Wellington or Nelson. (Not certain if we’ll be adding the Nelson stop.) I’m guessing we’d fly into Christchurch from either Wellington or Nelson. Would it be best to do it as a circle--or is there somewhere else we should fly out of?
FYI, the glaciers themselves aren’t a huge attraction for us because we’ve been fortunate enough to visit soooo many beautiful glaciers over the past few years. So my question is whether that area has the beauty I associate with the South Island (i.e., the areas surrounding Queenstown, Mt. Cook, etc. which I LOVED).
I know that the Marlborough Sounds area would be a lot easier to get to if we are already in Nelson. We’ve been to Abel Tasman three times – because we love it so much. But if the west coast packs more scenic “punch” we’d go for it.
Melnq8 and others … any thoughts???
PS. For those who don't follow my adventures -- this is our 5th or 6th trip to NZ, so we've already seen a great deal of that magnificent country. We don't need to cram in additional places.
FYI, the glaciers themselves aren’t a huge attraction for us because we’ve been fortunate enough to visit soooo many beautiful glaciers over the past few years. So my question is whether that area has the beauty I associate with the South Island (i.e., the areas surrounding Queenstown, Mt. Cook, etc. which I LOVED).
I know that the Marlborough Sounds area would be a lot easier to get to if we are already in Nelson. We’ve been to Abel Tasman three times – because we love it so much. But if the west coast packs more scenic “punch” we’d go for it.
Melnq8 and others … any thoughts???
PS. For those who don't follow my adventures -- this is our 5th or 6th trip to NZ, so we've already seen a great deal of that magnificent country. We don't need to cram in additional places.
Jul 11th, 2014, 05:15 PM
#2
Hi Songdoc -
I love the West Coast of the SI. It's wild, rugged, incredibly green and more often than not WET.
Towns along the West Coast include Westport, Punakaiki and Greymouth, but frankly, they're not all that interesting from a tourist standpoint (for instance, there's not much to do in Punakaiki once you've see the Pancake Rocks at high tide, unless you're there to hike).
North of Westport is Karamea, a place I seldom see mentioned in itineraries - we spent three nights there once, enjoyed it, but haven't returned. It's a small settlement surrounded by the Kahurangi National Park. It's primary attractions are access to the Heapy Track, the Oparara Basin, Honeycomb Caves and it's remoteness.
South of Greymouth is Hokitika, the greenstone capital of NZ, which is mildly interesting, but IMO more of a stopover than a destination (although the detour to Hokitika Gorge is worthwhile on a clear day).
Then there's the glaciers, which are the main draw, and the tiny settlement of Haast and the remote Jackson Bay. Then it's on to Wanaka (have you been there? I suspect you'd love it).
Because I adore the West Coast, I've tried to plan trips that include more time there, but I always run into the same problem - limited services and accommodation in the areas I enjoy the most, sandflies, and unfortunate weather.
So, we usually settle for enjoying the drive, making detours as we go and then spending a couple of nights at the glaciers to hike in Westland Nat'l Park.
There's quite a lot to see and do along the drive down the West Coast - waterfalls, ocean overlooks and beach & forest walks, lakes, rivers, the Blue Pools, Monroe Beach (penguins in season and a lovely rainforest walk).
The problem lies in finding a base from which to explore some of the tracks, etc that aren't located near towns. Unless you're camping, options are pretty limited.
If budget isn't an issue, I'd highly recommend a few nights at Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge. A stay there will give you a really good taste of what the West Coast has to offer.
The West Coast is indeed beautiful (especially when the sun is out), but completely different than Mt Cook and Queenstown.
I love the Marlborough Sounds region too, and yes, it'd be much easier for you to get to, and the weather is generally better. IMO it's best seen from a high point on the Queen Charlotte Track, where you can look down on the sounds and see the individual hills and bays. It's absolutely gorgeous on a pretty day.
There are many resorts, B&Bs and assorted accommodation scattered throughout the sounds, some only accessible by boat, and then of course Picton is right at your doorstep.
From Picton, it's a 25 minute drive to Blenheim and some wonderful wine if that appeals.
You can't go wrong with either region, but with so few days, the Marlborough Sounds makes more sense.
I love the West Coast of the SI. It's wild, rugged, incredibly green and more often than not WET.
Towns along the West Coast include Westport, Punakaiki and Greymouth, but frankly, they're not all that interesting from a tourist standpoint (for instance, there's not much to do in Punakaiki once you've see the Pancake Rocks at high tide, unless you're there to hike).
North of Westport is Karamea, a place I seldom see mentioned in itineraries - we spent three nights there once, enjoyed it, but haven't returned. It's a small settlement surrounded by the Kahurangi National Park. It's primary attractions are access to the Heapy Track, the Oparara Basin, Honeycomb Caves and it's remoteness.
South of Greymouth is Hokitika, the greenstone capital of NZ, which is mildly interesting, but IMO more of a stopover than a destination (although the detour to Hokitika Gorge is worthwhile on a clear day).
Then there's the glaciers, which are the main draw, and the tiny settlement of Haast and the remote Jackson Bay. Then it's on to Wanaka (have you been there? I suspect you'd love it).
Because I adore the West Coast, I've tried to plan trips that include more time there, but I always run into the same problem - limited services and accommodation in the areas I enjoy the most, sandflies, and unfortunate weather.
So, we usually settle for enjoying the drive, making detours as we go and then spending a couple of nights at the glaciers to hike in Westland Nat'l Park.
There's quite a lot to see and do along the drive down the West Coast - waterfalls, ocean overlooks and beach & forest walks, lakes, rivers, the Blue Pools, Monroe Beach (penguins in season and a lovely rainforest walk).
The problem lies in finding a base from which to explore some of the tracks, etc that aren't located near towns. Unless you're camping, options are pretty limited.
If budget isn't an issue, I'd highly recommend a few nights at Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge. A stay there will give you a really good taste of what the West Coast has to offer.
The West Coast is indeed beautiful (especially when the sun is out), but completely different than Mt Cook and Queenstown.
I love the Marlborough Sounds region too, and yes, it'd be much easier for you to get to, and the weather is generally better. IMO it's best seen from a high point on the Queen Charlotte Track, where you can look down on the sounds and see the individual hills and bays. It's absolutely gorgeous on a pretty day.
There are many resorts, B&Bs and assorted accommodation scattered throughout the sounds, some only accessible by boat, and then of course Picton is right at your doorstep.
From Picton, it's a 25 minute drive to Blenheim and some wonderful wine if that appeals.
You can't go wrong with either region, but with so few days, the Marlborough Sounds makes more sense.
Jul 12th, 2014, 06:23 AM
#3
Original Poster
Thank you SOOO much for this great info. But you've got me rethinking my plan. I was REALLY looking forward to the west coast -- but it sounds like you think 5 or 6 days wouldn't be enough time. How much time do you think we'd need?
And ... re: the rain, I know that's a notoriously rainy area--and October (when we'd be there) is the rainiest month of the year! AGGHHH!
If I indeed work in Nelson it sounds like the Marlborough Sounds might be the best option.
Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge looks FANTASTIC. Their "special" is $2296 (NZD) for 2 people/3 nts. But that does include breakfast, dinner and guided hikes. Not sure I'd do that much of a splurge ... but I appreciate the recommendation. As my grandmother used to say, "Rich or poor -- it's nice to have money!" ;-)
FYI, tomorrow, I'll head to work at a wilderness/whitewater rafting retreat. It's very remote and I probably won't have much Internet access for the next week.
PS. No wines for us.
And ... re: the rain, I know that's a notoriously rainy area--and October (when we'd be there) is the rainiest month of the year! AGGHHH!
If I indeed work in Nelson it sounds like the Marlborough Sounds might be the best option.
Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge looks FANTASTIC. Their "special" is $2296 (NZD) for 2 people/3 nts. But that does include breakfast, dinner and guided hikes. Not sure I'd do that much of a splurge ... but I appreciate the recommendation. As my grandmother used to say, "Rich or poor -- it's nice to have money!" ;-)
FYI, tomorrow, I'll head to work at a wilderness/whitewater rafting retreat. It's very remote and I probably won't have much Internet access for the next week.
PS. No wines for us.
Jul 12th, 2014, 02:35 PM
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With such a short timeframe, I think you are really chancing it with going to the glaciers. You'd have better luck with weather in Marlborough Sounds. You could make a circle trip of it and take in the upper West Coast. I think the coastline between Westport and Greymouth was some of the most scenic I've seen anywhere and rivals Big Sur of California. If you time it right for low tide, stroll Motukiekie Beach, as it is truly wild and awesome.
If wanting a more relaxing trip with some hiking, do Queen Charlotte Track, or even Nydia Track. You would hike during the day and stay in resorts in the evening. A nice side trip would be to go to Sawcut Gorge, but be sure to check conditions first, as after a heavy rain it can be treacherous.
Have you been to Golden Bay? That could easily fill a few days as well.
If wanting a more relaxing trip with some hiking, do Queen Charlotte Track, or even Nydia Track. You would hike during the day and stay in resorts in the evening. A nice side trip would be to go to Sawcut Gorge, but be sure to check conditions first, as after a heavy rain it can be treacherous.
Have you been to Golden Bay? That could easily fill a few days as well.
Jul 12th, 2014, 04:35 PM
#5
Original Poster
Thank you so much for the info. Very interesting!!!
deSchenke: when you say to make a circle -- starting and ending in Nelson? Or in Christchurch? I saw that you can also fly from Wellington to Takaka.
I haven't been to Golden Bay--but loved Wanaka.
deSchenke: when you say to make a circle -- starting and ending in Nelson? Or in Christchurch? I saw that you can also fly from Wellington to Takaka.
I haven't been to Golden Bay--but loved Wanaka.
Jul 12th, 2014, 04:50 PM
#6
Songdoc -
That's the very reason I haven't stayed at Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge since the 90's, but I will always remember my short stay there.
Yes, it's time I'm worried about; it's certainly possible to do a one way trip, but it won't be leisurely, as you'd need to end up somewhere near an airport = Queenstown or Christchurch.
If the West Coast is a priority, you might consider something like this:
From Nelson:
Nelson-Westport-Punakaiki-Greymouth-Hokitika-glaciers-Wanaka-QT - that's 14-16 hours of driving though, w/o detours. That makes a big dent in a 5-6 day itinerary.
Nelson-Westport-Punakiaki-Greymouth-Arthurs Pass-Christchurch is also an option - that'd be about 8.5 hours of driving, and would allow you to see some of the West Coast, but not much of it. You could also detour north of Westport and see Karamea, which would add about two hours to the drive time.
From Christchurch:
Christchurch-Arthur's Pass-Greymouth-side trip to Punakiaki (45 minute detour from Greymouth), Hokitika-glaciers-Wanaka-Queenstown
This route makes more sense to me and makes better use of your time, but is still 12-14 hours of driving time. Good options for overnight stays include Hokitika, the glaciers and Wanaka/QT. You might also consider Okarito, which is a tiny village near Franz Josef - it's the only place on the SI that you can see kiwis in the wild, via an organized nature tour.
If the West Coast beckons, I reckon you ought to answer the call. It might just whet your appetite for your next visit, and we know you'll be back!
That's the very reason I haven't stayed at Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge since the 90's, but I will always remember my short stay there.
Yes, it's time I'm worried about; it's certainly possible to do a one way trip, but it won't be leisurely, as you'd need to end up somewhere near an airport = Queenstown or Christchurch.
If the West Coast is a priority, you might consider something like this:
From Nelson:
Nelson-Westport-Punakaiki-Greymouth-Hokitika-glaciers-Wanaka-QT - that's 14-16 hours of driving though, w/o detours. That makes a big dent in a 5-6 day itinerary.
Nelson-Westport-Punakiaki-Greymouth-Arthurs Pass-Christchurch is also an option - that'd be about 8.5 hours of driving, and would allow you to see some of the West Coast, but not much of it. You could also detour north of Westport and see Karamea, which would add about two hours to the drive time.
From Christchurch:
Christchurch-Arthur's Pass-Greymouth-side trip to Punakiaki (45 minute detour from Greymouth), Hokitika-glaciers-Wanaka-Queenstown
This route makes more sense to me and makes better use of your time, but is still 12-14 hours of driving time. Good options for overnight stays include Hokitika, the glaciers and Wanaka/QT. You might also consider Okarito, which is a tiny village near Franz Josef - it's the only place on the SI that you can see kiwis in the wild, via an organized nature tour.
If the West Coast beckons, I reckon you ought to answer the call. It might just whet your appetite for your next visit, and we know you'll be back!
Jul 12th, 2014, 04:59 PM
#7
Regarding making a circle -
I'm in the process of planning a trip to the top of the South Island - this is what we're doing, but we're taking two weeks to do it:
Arrive Christchurch - drive to Hanmer Springs (natural hot springs - one night - this is our 'recovery day')
Drive Hanmer Springs to Picton - three nights
Drive Picton-Pohara (Golden Bay) - three nights
Drive Pohara-Kaiteriteri (or another base near Abel Tasman) - three nights
Drive Abel Tasman to Punakaiki - one night
Drive Punakaiki to Akarora - three nights
Drive Akarora to CHC for departure
Have you checked the details of those flights to Takaka Songdoc? An interesting option, if you don't mind little planes.
I'm in the process of planning a trip to the top of the South Island - this is what we're doing, but we're taking two weeks to do it:
Arrive Christchurch - drive to Hanmer Springs (natural hot springs - one night - this is our 'recovery day')
Drive Hanmer Springs to Picton - three nights
Drive Picton-Pohara (Golden Bay) - three nights
Drive Pohara-Kaiteriteri (or another base near Abel Tasman) - three nights
Drive Abel Tasman to Punakaiki - one night
Drive Punakaiki to Akarora - three nights
Drive Akarora to CHC for departure
Have you checked the details of those flights to Takaka Songdoc? An interesting option, if you don't mind little planes.
Jul 13th, 2014, 10:22 PM
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Pohara / golden bay is a nice spot. It gives you access to the northern entry to Abel Tasman national park (you can catch water taxis into the park and walk out as a great day walk if you can't stay in the park).
Wharariki beach is also a nice day trip from pohara if you want to get in a bit of raw west coast without having to head too far South...
When I last went to golden bay we spent three nights in pohara and it was perfect. By all means we could have stayed longer but we were heading South. Our next stop was Westport for the night - I'm not quite sure what my brother saw in this place as he said it was a good place, needless to say I've never stayed there again...but it allowed us to stop at punakaiki before heading on the franz josef.
You won't go wrong exploring any of Abel Tasman, Marlborough sounds, Nelson lakes for five to six days.
Wharariki beach is also a nice day trip from pohara if you want to get in a bit of raw west coast without having to head too far South...
When I last went to golden bay we spent three nights in pohara and it was perfect. By all means we could have stayed longer but we were heading South. Our next stop was Westport for the night - I'm not quite sure what my brother saw in this place as he said it was a good place, needless to say I've never stayed there again...but it allowed us to stop at punakaiki before heading on the franz josef.
You won't go wrong exploring any of Abel Tasman, Marlborough sounds, Nelson lakes for five to six days.
Jul 14th, 2014, 07:22 PM
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Although I love the West Coast, because of your time restraints I would recommend Marlborough Sounds - there is sooo much to see and do there. Wharariki Beach is wonderful for its isolation and unadulterated beauty (well it was in 2009!) There are lots of day trips offered to unusual places I believe, although we have a cousin who showed us these hidden spots. (BTW, the Wgton-Takaka flight will be a (very) small plane.)
The Queen Charlotte Walk is a 3-day trip that friends went on, and said it was amazing. However, probably not the right time of year for you. We usually go in January because that is when school hols are, and so I could get more than 2 weeks in which to travel and explore.
My sister and her partner recently took the Mail Boat around the Sounds and they thoroughly enjoyed it, seeing much that can only be seen if you have a boat.
The Queen Charlotte Walk is a 3-day trip that friends went on, and said it was amazing. However, probably not the right time of year for you. We usually go in January because that is when school hols are, and so I could get more than 2 weeks in which to travel and explore.
My sister and her partner recently took the Mail Boat around the Sounds and they thoroughly enjoyed it, seeing much that can only be seen if you have a boat.
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