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Procrastination -- Sydney and New Zealand

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Old Dec 19th, 2003, 09:02 PM
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Procrastination -- Sydney and New Zealand

Hi -- going to Sydney and New Zealand for 13 days in late Feb/early March. I've done many searches and found a variety of itineraries but most seem too busy and a little low end. Looking for something on the nicer side in both places without overdoing it. We want to enjoy ourselves and relax. My wife and I are in our early thirties and have never been to Sydney or NZ. We like to eat well, explore whatever there is to see, snorkel, hike and just relax. So, need recommendations on nice ($200 USD/nt.) places to stay in Sydney and must see's for 5 days. Then we spend 8 days in NZ -- based on wine regions and what I've read, I think South Island is probably best. A must for us is wine tasting in 1-2 regions (thinking Marlborough and Otago). Again, nice places to stay ($150-$200 USD/nt.). Please help the procrastinator. Are we too late to reserve nice places? Should we avoid tours? Rent a car? Thank you for your help. A loyal Fodorite who used this site for his honeymoon years ago and it was fantastic. Thanks!
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Old Dec 19th, 2003, 09:37 PM
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No, you're not too late to make reservations for early March, and the weather by then will have started to cool down, so you are coming at a very pleasant time. With a budget as generous as yours, I think I would begin (in Sydney) by contacting the Park Hyatt and asking if they have a room which looks at Fort Denison. This may be a bit above your budget, but certainly there would be no better place to sit and look at the harbour. If they offer you a view of the bridge, say no ... they are just too close (almost underneath!) to make any kind of view worthwhile.

If the Hyatt threatens to break your budget on the first day, try the Old Sydney Holiday Inn (make sure its the "Old Sydney" and not the one in Chinatown). It's in a great location for walking to some of Sydney's nicest areas (actually, it's placed right in the middle of them). There are a few other hotels around there, too, but I don't think they'd suit you, as some are "traditional" Aussie establishments that have been around for over a hundred years, and they may not always boast such niceties as air conditioning or a lift.

I don't think you should worry about hiring a car in Sydney... I would see this as a liability rather than an asset, as the train, bus and ferry service is very good (the ferries, which depart only a couple of minutes' wlak from the Old Sydney Holiday Inn, are a great way to see Sydney), and even quite satisfactory for seeing further-afield places such as the Blue Mountains or Canberra. There's no need to take a guided your for these, but there are plenty available if you feel like being "spoiled". Once again, the Hyatt and the Holiday Inn are both ideally placed for a visit to the Rocks Tourist Information centre, where you will have all the help you need in either planning an independent day out or booking a suitable tour.

For New Zealand, however, I think a car is a great idea... in less than a fortnight you could see the whole country, and the roads are so deserted that driving, even on the "wrong" side, is no hassle at all. However, since I am by no means an expert on NZ, I will let a "kiwi" advise you on this part of the trip. Just let me say one thing: if you have to choose between the north island and the south island, choose the south.

I think you will have a wonderful time, and I wish you well for your holiday.
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Old Dec 19th, 2003, 09:58 PM
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Thanks Alan. Really helpful. Look forward to any New Zealand tips for a 8-10 day trip.
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Old Dec 20th, 2003, 12:50 AM
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The thing is to do and stop your procrastination. I was in the same way early last month on planning my trip to New Zealand. I was working myself up into a tisey of"if I should go there or If I should go here syndrom'The travel agents I came across here did know much about New Zeland. I thought it would be better to find a New Zealand agent. After doing my homework I found Sahas Marshall of Holidayshoppe in Parnell, New Zealand. After a week of emails the trip was finalized. I can say it was one of the best trips I have taken. Covered the North and South Island, and When I got back to Auckland took her out for coffee and thanked her for her professional packageing of my vacation.
I can vourch for Sasah as a number one agent, so go ahead send her an email and end that procrastination of yours; . [email protected]
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Old Dec 20th, 2003, 12:37 PM
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I am just interested to know "why just Sydney" when you like wine seeing that Australia has some of the best wine in the world, but then you want to see NZ?
You won't be able to snorkle in either place in March because there is nowhere or nothing to see in either place and its getting a tad cool in the water.
 
Old Dec 20th, 2003, 07:45 PM
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In NZ's South Island, you will be able to go swimming with dolphins in Akaroa,wearing a wet suit.
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Old Dec 23rd, 2003, 10:10 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions/comments. Surprised the water will be so cold. Isn't that the end of summer for NZ/AU?

Alan -- do you know the Sheraton at the Park? It's higher rated by Conde Nast than the Four Seasons and the rates are good for 5-star: 268 AUD.

Janese -- Australian wine is incredible but we'd probably burn out on 2 weeks of wine tasting. If, we went to Barossa Valley, we'd spend our entire time traveling and wine tasting vs sight seeing. Instead, we figured we'd try Hunter Valley since it's relatively close to Sydney and still get to see some of New Zealand. We'll probably have to sample a little Pinot Noir and Sauv Blanc in the South Island (Marlborough and Otago). Any must do's in the South Island?
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Old Dec 24th, 2003, 04:08 AM
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Hi, again, ravi_kumar!

Well, I know WHERE the Sheraton is, and I know where the Four Seasons is... you understand that, as a resident of Sydney, I never actually get to stay in any of these high-class hotels, so I can't comment on whether one has better room service than the other, or nicer decor in the rooms, and so on. All I can say is that the price you mentioned seems like a lot of money, and I suspect that these are rates aimed at overseas tourists who don't know what a "local" can get a room for, and who thus pay up resignedly, thinking that there is no viable alternative. My reason in joining this forum in the first place was to say very loudly and clearly that there IS an alternative, and that these large hotels are NOT giving value for money when compared to what you can buy in Australia for this kind of price. You could probably get a nice room at the Grand in Hunter Street for less than half of that amount.

Anyway, just on location: Sheraton on the Park looks at Hyde Park, which isn't disgraceful, but let's be honest... it's not exactly Hyde Park in London! The location is quite close to the major department stores in Sydney, so if you've come for the shopping, this would be a better choice than the Four Seasons. However, the Four Seasons that I know -- there may be more than one, I am referring to the one in George St which used to be called the Regent -- wins hands down for view and sighseeing location. It's practically in the Rocks, it's about one minute's walk from the ferry terminals, and it's just down the road from the main tourist information centre. A good room will have a main harbour view, probably of the Opera House. However, if they're charging even more than the price you were quoted for Sheraton, then I'd be looking at some of the nearby establishments, such as the Sir Stamford or the one I already mentioned, the Old Sydney Holiday Inn.
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Old Dec 24th, 2003, 11:53 AM
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For that money I would stay at the Hyatt which is in the absolute best position.
I too am with Alan regarding these hotels . Perhaps Australians are different from Americans in that we tend to want something a little special from our hotels and not the same " well its the same decor as London, NY, Paris, Sydney, Rome, etc etc but at least we know our way around the hotel and if you are lucky you will even get to see some of the same faces" type of hotel chains i.e. Sheraton, Marriot, Hyatt, Hilton etc. At least you shouldn't run into too many Australians though.
It really depends in what you want from your holiday and if you want to see Australia as Australians know it or as the o/s Business traveller knows it. Unfortunately Conde Nast ( not read widely in Australia) only deals with the hotels that are either run or owned by Americans and therefore you will miss out on some of the treasures that we have.
 
Old Dec 24th, 2003, 12:55 PM
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If you do decided to go with the Sheraton on the Park - you will find it to be a very comfortable, clean and an extremely well run hotel.
In the centre of the city and within easy walking distance of both Darling Harbour and Circular Quay.
We have stayed there many times, despite being Australians and I can assure you will find plenty more of us there!
The views from the higher floors, while not in the same category as the Four Seasons or Hyatt are spectacular.
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Old Dec 24th, 2003, 10:48 PM
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OK Prue I will rephrase this: You won't meet Australians like Alan and I at places like the Sheraton etc - that, you may think, is a bonus.
 
Old Dec 25th, 2003, 01:06 AM
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Try the Shangri-la hotel 5 star (was the ANA hotel) in Cumberland Street The Rocks.
My cousin from the UK is staying there now and they have fabulous views of the harbour bridge and harbour.
The Rocks area is great, walking distance to Circular Quay to catch a ferry, walking distance to the Opera House.
Regular buses from George street to Bondi Beach etc.
Also walking distance to the train station.
They have a suite on the 25th floor and it has cost them only 60 pounds per night.
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Old Dec 25th, 2003, 02:04 PM
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Just a comment on the Shangri-La: the main entrance is in a little "back street" that runs right alongside the approach to the Harbour Bridge. The entrance is, in fact, right opposite the tollgates. Every time you step outside the door you are greeted by the noise and pollution that this position entails. The SAhangri-La is actually the perfect name for this hotel, as, if I recall, in the James Hilton novel the hero (Conway?) and his comrades who went to Shangri-La found it quite delighful until they were foolish enough to try to go outside!

It's hotels like this, who buy the worst piece of Real Estate in town and build the highest structure they are allowed to, gussying it up with doormen and brass fittings so that maybe you won't notice the crook location because you got that 25th-floor view and somebody opened the door for you, that send me back to good old honest places like the Criterion, which has no view, but is about 100 metres from the Town Hall, the Queen Victoria Building, the Pitt St shopping mall (well, maybe 300 metres, in that case) and Hyde Park -- and charges around $AUD60 a night (that's twenty-five pounds)for a room with share bath. They don't have a doorman, but if you're lucky the bar attendant might point you in the direction of the staircase which will take you up to your top-storey room all the way up on the third floor. Ask for some stationery to write to your friends back homw, and the guy at the bar will gladly point you to Woolworth's, seventy metres away. But this, like it or not, is the Australian Way, and might even end up being part of the charm of your holiday.

Have a great time!
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Old Dec 25th, 2003, 02:41 PM
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Allan, wow...you certainly know how to rip a place apart.
Do you live in the CBD to be so critical of an area??? or do you just wonder into the front foyers for a look and then judge?
You wrote that you "actually do not stay in hotels like these" so why judge a book by it's street address!
My cousins have been travelling the world since March 03 and are very happy with the Shangri-lai...funny they have made no comments amount any breathing difficulties...
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Old Dec 25th, 2003, 04:58 PM
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I have to agree with Alan - Shangri-La is in a poor immediate location, but not too far from places you want to be and - the view is interesting - if you're high enough.
I stayed there once and I suffered breathing problems in the hotel. My room has previously occupied by a heavy smoker, and the place was soooo polluted with stale cigarette smoke that my asthma kicked in immediately. It was the devil's own job to get a change of room, too.
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Old Dec 25th, 2003, 09:59 PM
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Kimerley, you are absolutely right in your assessment of my method of judging a hotel.... I get as far as the door, and that's all. I never have any idea of what goes on inside one of these hotels; all I know is WHERE it is. This, I have found in my own (limited) travels around the world, is of supreme importance to the outcome of my stay in a particular city. I usually have a limited amount of time to spend in any one place, and a limited amount of money, so when I am poorly-located and am faced with taxi fares to get to the hotels I SHOULD have stayed at, I feel ripped-off. However, I am never concerned about complaints such as these (all of which I have read on this site at some time): the lighting in the room was poor; the wall colour wasn't pleasant; there were no in-hotel travellers cheque cashing facilities, so we had to cross over the road to do it; room service was slow or almost non-existent; they promised to wake us up and were late doing it. None of these has ever had the slightest effect on the quality of my holiday in any city. I couldn't tell you the room colour of a single hotel I ever stayed in.

Assuming that there may be a couple of other people who feel the way I do, I presume to tell them what to look for, and what to avoid, in hotels in my home town. I do admit to a bias against the big US chains, because I have seen what their entry into the field has done to prices. I have never denied this bias. This does not mean that I am saying to people that they won't have a nice time at Shangri-La, which I'm sure has snappy room service and a right-on-time wake up call. All I'm saying is that you should be aware that not everyone in Sydney is out to rip you off, and you shouldn't think that the prices these people charge are standard. You are paying dearly for that room service, even without the tip that you'll probably feel obliged to give to the person who delivers it.

This has nothing to do with my opinion of the CBD. However, just to set the record straight, no, I don't live in it, but, actually, hardly anybody does. Sydney is a city with miles and miles of sprawling dormitory suburbs and a very small CBD where few people live. I do, however, love the CBD and its surrounds, and spend countless hours walking around it renewing my acquaintanceship with its plus and minus features. The Harbour Bridge toll gates definitely rate as a "minus".
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Old Dec 26th, 2003, 03:40 PM
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Unlike Alan I, on the other hand, have lived in the Sydney CBD and I would not want to stay next to the Harbour Bridge nor within smelling distance of the petrol fumes either. I advocate small, boutique hotels which have that little extra to offer not found in the larger chain hotels which I have stayed in on numberous occasions throughout the world and which for the last 5 - 10 years I have avoided like the plague 1/ because of the things that I would be paying for and not using i.e. Gyms and conference rooms and 2/ because they have absolutely no ambience whatsoever and are clones of each other 3/ the outrageous cost.
Finally having experienced on numerous occasions the facilities, cost and service etc in UK hotels I would not expect that anyone from there would complain about any of the hotels in Sydney even if they were smack in the middle of the harbour bridge.
 
Old Dec 26th, 2003, 09:11 PM
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Janese, I so envy you for your conciseness! How come you can say in three sentences what it takes me four pages to say?

I must also say that your last sentence, above, is a classic that made me laugh out loud. Start selling your writings, girl, don't give them all away for free here!

That bit about the lack of ambience and all the chains being clones of each other is something I wish I'd said when I wrote that long critique a few threads ago. It's EXACTLY what's wrong with staying at one of these chains. There's nothing to put in your memory box to say that you've even travelled... you may as well stay at the 5-star just down the road from home. I am often amazed when people say things like "I always like the Marriotts, but I don't much like the Holiday Inns." How can they tell the difference? It's like comparing one McDonalds menu item with another. When I bussed across the USA a few years ago, we stayed at chain hotels or motels nearly all the time, because that's just about all they have, at least around the bus stations. We used Best Western and Days Inn and Comfort Inn and Red Roof (or something) and Motel 6 and Super 8.... do you think I could remember which was which today? No way! But I well remember the little Asian-run B&B that we found behind Grauman's Chinese in Hollywood. Compared to the others, THAT was Shangri-La!

Finally, did you find, as I do, that those Fawlty Towers-type places which you alluded to in your last sentence can actually be part of the fun? At least you can talk about them afterwards. What could you possibly find to talk about after a night at the Four Seasons?
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Old Dec 27th, 2003, 01:46 AM
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G'day Alan, I do remember most of my Clone hotel stopovers.
I do recall very well my "stay" at the Sheraton number 2 Heathrow some 8 years ago when the only window in the room opened up a full 2 inches, it was soooo hot and I had just got off a flight from Sydney. The only fan in the hotel was at Reception so I said that Madam would be only too happy to have that one seeing that they must have thought that it was hot too. The airconditioning had been turned off as it was not in one of the months that they turn it on. Bliss was having a fan within one foot of my face at that Sheraton Hotel.
Sheraton Hotel number 1 Heathrow Airport 2 years ago. Arrived from Australia having made sure that I would not be staying at Sheraton number 2 because of the lack of windows, and the 8ft x 8ft room size and met up with friend from USA but unfortunately had problems with
breathing in all the public places because smoking is allowed everywhere and that includes the eating places ( well it just invades those areas). Must remember that smokers have rights you know! That was the last year I bothered with my Sheraton Hotel card
Another memorable chain hotel in Stratford on Avon. Same problem with smoking there as it was allowed in the dining room as well as throughout the public places - decided to write on the Anouncement Board " Smoking is like homosexuality, it should be allowed between consenting adults in the privacy of their own home"
Ok, next try was the Hilton, London. Now that was fun, every time you flushed the toilet you had to put the lid down and stand on it to stop whatever was in there from arranging itself all over the floor.
Next try was a delightful place in the country which was the country home of Queen Elizabeth 1st and now run as an upmarket B&B ( Mansion) surrounded by a charming village and not far from some rather great nosh in one of the Cottswold's villages. Yes I remember all about that place and I used up all of my vouchers staying there because it was so lovely and run by two of the nicest people you could ever wish to meet. Loved the little B&B in Yorkshire at a farm where the decor was just so 1950s. The kindness of our hosts made up for the lack of sophistication and the food was Oh, so wholesome. So you don't get a footman or whatever at the door of these places but I would rather have people who are interesting around me than those from the Chains any day. Have a nice Day Maaaaaaaaam!
 
Old Dec 27th, 2003, 09:59 PM
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If you have 8 days in NZ, then I'd recommend that you fly into Christchurch - and drive to Kaikoura for swimming with the dolphins (highly recommended). Nice place to stay is the "old convent" - also you will find that most nice places in NZ aren't all that expensive . I believe most of the wineries are on the drive from Kaikoura to Picton. The next place I'd recommend is the Abel Tasman National park. You can either stay at a town called Motueka (Estuary B&B) or within the park itself(Awaroa Lodge). The lagoon Kayaking trips are a must-do. The drive from here to the Glaciers is pretty - it's a long drive (takes a good 6+ hrs if I remember correctly) - and a good part of it resembles Big Sur, California. Make sure to stop by at the Pancake rocks (i think the place is called Pukakai). We tried to helihike at both Fanzjosef and fox glacier but the weather didn't permit it - so instead we did a 3 hr hike to the glaciers. I've heard the helihike is worth the price. Next we went to Arrowtown (Arrowtown Lodge and Hiking company - good restaurant is saffron) and the next day to Queenstown (Matterhorn chalet is higly recommeded - make sure NOT to take the outside cottage). Queenstown has a lot of adventure sports to offer. Next we went to Milford Sound - the drive there is very pretty with several interesting stops. I wasn't hugely impressed with the cruise.
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