anita63

Pretty strange question, eh?

I am nailing down our trip to Australia and could use some help!

Background: Mom, Dad, 2 teens. They are SCUBA divers and I am not. We arrive Sydney March 9, 2008 and leave Sydney March 20.

The objective of this trip is to dive the GBR. Pain being that I am not a diver, do not do well on boats and husband insists we stay together. I was all for them going on a live-aboard while I lazed on a beach somewhere, but that kinda defeats the family vacation, doesn't it,lol?

So, I have decided on Hayman Island for 5 nights March 13-18 (thank you Visa points). It seems that Hayman isn't the easiest place in the world to get to and will take a good part of the day to travel to between flights, and launches.

Finally getting to my question...thanks for being patient!

We also REALLY want to have some sort of Outback experience. Ayers Rock would have been nice, but it just seems very difficult to co-ordinate the flight schedules. It is possible, but it would mean loosing a day, which we can ill afford to do.

Is there some kind of outback experience due west of Hamilton Island? We arrive on the 9th and i thought it would be best to spend the 9th and 10th in Sydney and then the 11th and 12th in some outback experience in the vacinity of Hamilton Beach. 13-18 on Hayman Island and then the 19th back in Sydney, 20th fly home.

It would be so much easier if we could go straight away to Hayman on the 11th, but Husband wants to be sure kids are totally not jet lagged for diving...so, I'm stuck with this 2 day blip.

If I have to give up on the outback experience, i will survive and will consider Brisbane...Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary looks cool.

Sorry for the long winded post, but this diving/non diver thing is an important factor. Thank you in advance for your replies!

RalphR

That's a tough one. Not as much to see due west of Hayman compared to other spots up and down the coast. Eungella Nat'l Park, just west of Mackay, is definitely worth seeing for an afternoon, but doesn't really qualify as Outback. Closest "outback experience" might be the train, "Spirit of the Outback" which runs from Rockhampton out to Longreach, home of the Stockman's Hall of Fame. However, I'm not sure that would fit in with your schedule as the train runs only a couple of times a week and I don't think its a journey you do out and back in less than a couple of days. Then there's the problem of getting to and from Rocky.

Carnarvon Gorge is an excellent outback destination (been there twice), but would be the better part of a day's drive (250 miles or so) south of the Whitsundays (where Hayman is) or northeast from Brisbane. Carnarvon has pretty nice lodge accommodation. You'd want at least a full one or two days there (2-3 nights). A great place for wildlife, including platypus.

Or, you could to Undarra, another superb outback spot, roughly the same distance away as Carnarvon, but lying northeast (closer to Cairns). Undarra is famous for its lava tubes, and is another great place for seeing Australian wildlife in the open.

Have you considered any islands outside the Whitsundays?

LizzyF

For about the 1,000th time - the GBR, including the Whitsundays, is NOT just about diving. There are about 70 islands with about everything that you could imagine to do available to do. Carnarvon Gorge is about a min. 6 hour drive from Airlie Beach. If you wanted outback then I would go to a destination around Cairns for diving and then you could go on a tour to either the Gulf of Carpentaria by train or the Undarra Lava tubes - both of those are not really "outback though" but then neither is Carnarvon Gorge.

ALF

We have spent a lot of time working the diver (me) vs. non-diver (wife) problem. We've spent a couple weeks in the Whitsundays, and one thing we found that works well is the Fantasea boat that goes out to a floating platform called Reefworld (http://www.fantasea.com.au/Reefworld/).
The boat is a large cat which will feel better for those who are not fond of boats. Best of all, it docks at Reefworld, where you can board the very stable platform and feel hardly any motion at all. You can laze around, go snorkeling, take a semi-submersible boat tour, or even a little helicopter ride (I did this and got fantastic reef photos). The other thing we discovered is that virtually no certified divers take this boat - the result is that both times we went, I was in a group of less than 6 divers. This can be a superior experience to a small dedicated dive boat. There are some fine drift dives, where you take a small boat down the reef, drop in, and drift back to the platform. I've heard that there is a similar trip from Hayman Island, but I've never been there.

Certainly a liveboard is desireble, because it is a longish boat ride from the Whitsundays to the outer GBR . Still, you can lie on a beach on Hayman while the diver(s) take a day boat out.

As for the, "outback", I guess that depends on what you mean by that term. Do you mean a wild uninhabited area, or do you mean an arid sandy area? If you mean the former, then it is pretty easy to head south from Airlie Beach into the Conway Range. Check out Conway State Forest for some nice hiking.

anita63

Thank you all for your quick responses!
Liz, I appreciate your comments about more to the GBR than diving. I do realize that, but this trip, unfortunately for me, is ALL about diving. But, I did manage to squeeze in a bit of 'non diving' stuff. Next time we'll have a different experience, I am sure

So...I went ahead and booked my trip as follows, surprisingly enough:

Arrive Sydney: 2 nights at Marriott (low key activities like harbor cruise and tour of the Rocks while we get adjusted)

Fly to Ayers Rock: Sails Resort, silent night dinner, and breakfast with camels. Spend one night (I know, I know, but it was the best we could do with flight arrangements).

Fly to Cairns: One night in Port Douglas; visit Daintree( 4w drive tour and canopy tour). Second night in Cairns visit Tjapukai Park and do hokey aboriginal dinner/dance thing.

Fly to Hamilton Island and get launch to Hayman Island for 5 nights of SCUBA (them) and Spa (me!).

Fly back to Sydney and arrive around dinner. Two nights at Marriott and Dive with the sharks at the aquarium.

Fly back home to Toronto!

RalphR

Like Liz, I would have suggested a different area or island if you wanted easier access to an outback destination and to the outer reef. Though the Whitsunday Islands are beautiful (I stayed on Brampton Island and loved it), they are all continental islands. They have their own fringing reefs (of varying quality), but are they are not the GBR proper. As ALF indicates, your husband and kids will still have to take a boat to the outer reef, just as one would do from shore, where the best diving is.

As for "outback", it's a relative term that means different things to different people...there is no border between non-outback and outback; it lies at no defined distance from the coast. Quoting Bill Bryson in In A Sunburned Country: "To Australians anything vaguely rural is 'the bush'. At some indeterminate point, the bush becomes 'the outback'. Push on for another 2000 miles or so and eventually you come to bush again, and then a city, and then the sea. And that's Australia".

So as to whether Undarra and Carnarvon qualify as outback, I'm not sure. It depends on who you ask. But to me both places are sufficiently 'outbacky' that I often suggest them as alternatives to the well worn path to the Red Center. Undarra, while being quite close to the coast, lies in the rain shadow of the Great Dividing Range on the edge of the Gulf Savannah. The look and feel is decidedly "outback" - not much different to more remote parts further inland.

Given your limited amount of time, it seems like a lot of expense and effort just to fly to Ayers Rock for one night...hardly an "outback experience" in my opinion. Why not extend your time around Cairns and go visit Undarra instead? Guaranteed to see Aussie wildlife in in the wild. And you should be able to extend to two nights if you like it (that's what my wife and I did).

anita63

Yes, Ralph, I toyed and toyed and toyed over the Ayers Rock visit. 6 months worth of think about it. Thought for sure that I wouldn't spend the money/effort which is why I posted my original question about some sort of outback experience due west of hamilton beach.

THEN, after posting my question, DH informs me that he REALLY wanted to do the silent dinner thing and see the stars in the southern hemisphere. So, I agreed.

You are so right, Ralph, about the hassle and $ for one night, but we are generally of the opinion right now, "we're in this deep" lol. One night in Cairns and one night in Port Douglas seems way too short, but I suppose it's better than nothing.

Thanks again to everyone for their thoughts!

Anita

RalphR

Anita..I certainly understand where you are coming from. It's not that I don't think the Red Center is a great destination - you will love it like I did. But if you ever get back to Queensland, keep Undarra and Carnarvon in mind.

RalphR

Just realized, after Googling "Undarra", I've been spelling it wrong all these years. "Undara" is the right way.

anita63

Ralph, thank you for thinking that I would actually pick up on a spelling error...I am a horrid speller (but I tell people that I'm a bad typist,lol).

You've got me thinking about those lava rocks...hmmmmm???? LOL

SnRSeattle

In my opinion, (though not that of some people on the board) Ayers Rock/Uluru is great from the point of view of an North American. Although your DH might or might not get the sky view--sometimes it's cloudy, which is what happened to us. Try to get out to Kata Tjuta/The Olgas for a hike if you can squeeze it in. Staying in Cairns one night and PD one night is like staying in Toronto one night and a nearby suburb one night. Stay one place or the other and save yourself the packing/unpacking hassle. They aren't that far apart and tours pick up in both places usually or you can drive yourself. It's not a fun drive if you're in a hurry (it's windy), but it's scenic! Sydney is a great place to get over jet lag--it is very walkable, sunny (usually) so you can reset your biorythms easily, and has great sights and food.
Sally

ALF

It will be costly, but that itinerary sounds pretty good to me.

ALF

I hope you at least go out to the outer GBR one day an do a little snorkeling.

anita63

Thanks Sally for your perspective. I suppose we can only hope that the planets are aligned and we get a clear night...alot of $ for clouds. I just hope that we can get some sort of aboriginal feel for Australia regardless of the weather. I also booked us for the camel tour for the sunrise for no other reason than to get embarrassing pictures of my teens on camels, which should make for good facebook bribes...but I have to admit, that it looks like fun!

Yah, I get that Port Douglas and Cairns are close by but here's what happened: Cairns is strictly the 'pass through' point onto Hamilton Island where we get our launch to spend 5 nights on Hayman island. I was surprised at how difficult it was to get to Hamilton Island from AR. The flights arrive late into Cairns and then leave very early the next day. So, we were stuck to spend the night...that's when I thought, "what the heck, let's spend two nights and take in Daintree and do the canopy tour and also take in the Tjapukai Culture park and the night dinner/show kitchy thing". So, we arrive in Cairns at 5:20pm and I thought we could whip up to Daintree for the night tour which starts late to see those criters that only come out at night. I didn't think DH would want to drive all the way back to Cairns, so we are staying at the Sheridan Mirage. Take a 4w drive tour the next day and leave around mid afternood for Cairns. Once at Cairns, take in the skyrail/karunda perhaps and then the kitchy theatrical aboriginal dinner/show. We spend the night in Cairns at the Hilton which is necessary b/c our flight is at 6:00am the next morning.

I'm still working out the details of the port douglas/cairns thing as this was just thrown at me yesterday and i still haven't done my due diligence in research, but what I've described is a rough outline...still figuring it out. Any thoughts or comments?

Alf, I am hoping to get on that boat for some snorkling, but I get deathly sea sick and will have to play it by ear. I will do everything in my power to see my kids dive on the GB even if it means that i am 'feeding the fish' for the ride. Luckily, I understand that on Hayman, I can get a taste of the ocean from their beaches. DH just went out and bought a new underwater housing unit for the video camera, so I can at least see that if my drugs and positive thinking still don't let me on the boat

And, yes, this trip is major dollars, but THANKFULLY alot is being done on points and we'll only be out of pocket about 10G's (famous last words).

Thanks again, all!

anita63

Oh, i forgot to mention that when I changed my mind to include the trip to Ayers Rock, which in my original post I was not considering, it was because DH was ok with extending our trip by a day

ps..Does anyone else find it amusing that I hijacked my own post?

pat_woolford

Feel free to hijack away, anita, but I'm a bit exhausted already re the Cairns/Daintree/Kuranda/Skyrail/Tjapukai at Night bit in such a short time.

By the time your flight arrives in Cairns (assume its on time, they usually are) it'll be nearly dark before you set off for Port Douglas - about one hour from Cairns airport; night falls quickly in the tropics; a quick sunset and that's about it.

The jungle surfing thing is at Cape Tribulation; that's a couple of hours' drive north of Cairns (there's no bridge over Daintree river, you must use a vehicular ferry). Skyrail base is at Smithfield, about 15 mins north of Cairns city - last Skyrail for Kuranda leaves Smithfield at 2.45pm, which would get you to Kuranda about 3.30pm - just in time to take the last Skyrail back from Kuranda, but absolutely no time in Kuranda.

If you managed this, you'll find yourself at Smithfield at about 5pm, Tjakupai at Night is right next to the Smithfield terminal, but doesn't start until about 7pm and there's absolutely nothing to do there at that time. You'd need to go on to your accommodation at Hilton; and either drive back to Tjapukai or utilise its transfer service for the show.

Sorry this is so longwinded but I can't see how to abbreviate it.

anita63

Thanks Pat, I appreciate your expertise!

It does sound exhausting, doesn't it? lol...like I said, I'm just putting ideas "out there" right now but need to cement the plan. I did a bit more research today with my Fodor's book and looked on line at a few suggestions.

I'm thinking: Arrive at Cairns at 5:20, get car rental and head toward the Cairns Night Zoo. I emailed them for exact distance/time that they are north of Cairns, but it looks like it's about a little less than 1/3 of the way to Port Douglas. Anyway, they have a BBQ dinner, star interpretation, and a night tour through the zoo to see the nocturnal animals that starts at 7:00 and ends (I believe) around 10:00. You are right about that other night tour being in Cape Trib. and it's just not managable, but this looks like a good compromise for a night adventure.

After night zoo, continue to Port Douglas, which looks like it will be another 40 minutes which will get us in bed by 11:00ish...reasonable.

The next day, I have looked into Pete's 4WD tour of Daintree/Cape Tribulation which leaves at 8:30am and returns back late afternoon. We leave Port Douglas and drive back to Cairns and check into Hilton.

That evening we could do the Tjakupai dinner, but I suspect that it might better if we just have a quiet dinner and get to bed early for our 6am flight the next day. If we do Pete's tour, we couldn't possible get back in time for karanda or skyrail...I'm a bit torn about the Tjakupai tour anyway, as I have found many unflattering reviews...dunno, jury is still out.

So, I've had to cut out the tree canopy zip line in Cape Trib. but I think this Pete's Tour thing will more than make up for it.

The other option is to do the Tjakupai the night we arrive instead of the Nite Zoo...still thinking!!

Thanks again!

pat_woolford

Hi Anita,
Yes, I'd certainly forego the jungle canopy thing for Pete's trip, assume this is Pete Baxendell?

Cairns Night Zoo is at Cairns Tropical Zoo on Captain Cook Hwy (the one you'll travel on north) a little before the turn off to Palm Cove beach. That's about 10 mins north of Tjapukai and around 40 minutes from there to Sheraton Mirage at PD so you've estimated well. Just check their website to make sure they're open on the night you need.

It's a shame to make the mostly scenic drive between Ellis Beach to PD in the dark, but never mind, you'll see in on return the next day. At least there won't be much traffic!

People either love or hate Tjapukai; it is a potted Aboriginal experience but it's also the largest private employer of indigenous people in the country. And at least you can be sure that items sold in its giftshop are Aboriginal painted or crafted and the money does go back to the artist, many of whom are employed by Tjapukai.

Do the unflattering reviews you've read refer to the night dinner programme or the regular daytime show? Or both?

anita63

Thanks Pat, glad that you can confirm my guestimates for the travel. Yes, I was pretty upset about missing the scenic tour, but you are correct that I can see it on the way back

Yes, Pete Baxendell is the tour that I enquired about (still havent heard back yet)and I hope it's available!! This tour sounds incrediblely 'out there' and right up my teenager's alley (ok, mine too...can't wait to try green ants).

I did email the Night Zoo for availablity and am waiting for a reply. According to the website, it -appears- to be open, but I feel better corresponding to be sure.

Trip Advisor had reviews about Tj-Park about both the day and night programs, but I find that on TA, I end up more confused with all the reviews...travellers are always so pasionate one way or the other,eh? I'm still giving it thought and perhaps I think I should actually post it as a question in this forum.

Thanks again for your input...it really helps!!