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Which boat cruise to take in NZ if you can only do one?
I' m thinking of a visit to retrieve my son who's lived/worked in Queenstown since last October. Actually, his contract is up in October, but he can stay on longer at his prerogative. I've read the Fodor's book, & it seems every area touts their own boat cruise. I'm wondering which I should try to include (if any).
Tentative dates are end of October through mid November. I'm thinking 3 weeks. Maybe Oct. 26 or 28th to Nov. 18th? He wants to be home before Christmas & also, his grandmother's 90th BD is the end of November, so hopefully will make that. He's loved living in NZ but, actually has had to work so much to pay US $ in bills, that he's not seen all that much of it. He's also not the planner that I am, so I could really use some help here. He's 29 - I'm 57 & in good health & walking capabilities for light hikes - we did the first couple miles of the Kalalau Trail ( to the beach) in Hawaii together a couple years ago. So, the idea is to tour a bit & then us return back to the states together. He has a car, so I'm assuming there won't be a need to rent. I will need lodging - even in QT. Hopefully, he will be able to arrange selling the car before we leave, so I'm not certain about that. I guess we'd start by 2-4 days in QT to see it & it's environs. I'm really game for anything but bungy jumping or mountain climbing! lol! Also think I'd enjoy a winery or two, but not sure which one to choose. I prefer Chardonnays & Merlot. He prefers a beer. Would like to see the rare penguins. - ? maybe even Stewart Island?? Of course, I want to do this all on the best 'budget' possible & still allow for a great time. So, question #1: Which boat tour? (Don't ask me why this is first & just have to start somewhere) #2: Which route? #3 Which Heli or flight tour if any - maybe Milford Sound? or shall that be the boat tour? #4 The Maori hang i - which is the best experience? I guess where ever we go, we''ll either be lugging all his worldly possessions about or we will have to return to QT to fly home - not sure, maybe ship some stuff back? Any help getting me out of this fog will be much appreciated! |
Hi olesouthernbelle -
I'm not sure I follow when you ask which boat cruise...are you asking about a specific area, such as Milford? If so, there are three companies that I'm aware of, Real Journeys, The Red Boat and Mitre Peak. I've been on all of them, and my favorite was the last cruise of the day on Mitre Peak. All the tour groups had left and we felt as if we had the sounds almost to ourselves - very peaceful. Are you planning a tour of just the South Island, or both? |
There's also an overnight cruise of Doubtful Sound, and a Milford Sound overnight cruise. There are also boat trips out of QT on Lake Wakatpipu, and on Lake Wanaka as well as from other parts of the SI, such as Marlborough Sounds. There's a ferry that goes from Bluff (not far from Invercargill) to Stewart Island. From there you can take a water taxi to Ulva Island, which is a bird sanctuary. There are also boat trips from Akaroa, and that area is a good spot for penguin viewing, as is Dunedin and several areas on the SI. Abel Tasman is another place you can get around via water taxi...
Do I understand that you want to spend three weeks touring the SI, starting and ending in QT? |
I think osb may be thinking which one as in where Mel, but you were keen and did you do Doubtful Sound too, that Sound being about three times the length of Milford only from what I read, involves going across Lake Manapouri first and if anything sounds as though it is less visited, more wilderness.
With the Lake and extra length, also probably somewhat more expensive no doubt. A general tour route of the SI osb can be something of a figure eight, up westcoast and cross over to Christchurch on the east, up to the top and back down inland to head south again from Christchurch on the east, and side trips here and there. Think it is Kiwi_rob who has put together some detailed itineraries and also Mel from her trips, so I'll leave detail to them and you could see how the search works. On general stuff if you want to see some of the NI tooas Mel asks, with your son's car it'd make sense to use the ferry so you get another cruise or two if you head back but three weeks will limit how much of either island you can see and penguins are on east coast south of Christchurch so you might want to take that into account. On SI you have wineries down around Queenstown, Sam Neil the actor having a vineyard down in that area, not sure if he is producing yet or will greet you at the cellar door, but maybe. Probably more wines up around Cantebury area, just north of Christchurch and most I'd just guess will be up around Marlborough region. I looked into Stewart Island once, not much there and you can get a flight out of Invercargil one way if you liked and a ferry the other, a bit over NZ$200 all up I think the price was going to be, probably closer to US$100 with exchange rate at moment. Never got around to a Hangi on my trips but I have a fire pit at home and'll have to wrap some fish in leaves for I've done plenty of other stuff. Google up Sevenseas Worldwide Transport if the son has a bit of gear to send back, they catering to travellers who might just have a tea chest or so of gear but if he has a lot more, it might pay to just look up some transport companies and get quotes. Take some warm clothes as even November in the south could still be a bit cool [and wet]. |
Thanks for the replies. And, yes, in particular, I'd like to see some of the Lord of the Ring sites on the North Island (I don't think there are any on the South, right?) - a maybe a few absolute don't misses, if it works out.
I've got to get some basic info from DS before I can be for sure, but, ideally (hopefully) we'd be able to make some provision for his things & then tour the SI & after that venture to the NI to fly out of Auckland. It may even be a moot point - not sure how much he does have, besides the car & possibly some ski wear and such. At any rate, I'll take note of your Sevenseas Worldwide Transport suggestion, Bushranger. The boat question is this: which one if you can only do one on either island? Don't count the ferry. I think it was either the Milford Sound or the Doubtful Sound cruise one that I had read was so spectacular & then I got bogged down with all the others listed (in the book). Another was boating (or was it kayaking?) - not cruising - around the waters of Auckland. But, I can't seem to locate that info now - though it sounded very appealing at the time. Yes, I'd read about the plane & the ferry to/from Stewart Island & also read that the ferry may be very rough, so thought maybe the plane was the preferred way. If we do that, would it make sense as a day trip or would it necessitate an overnight? The latter is what I seemed to think I got from the book, because the penguins move at night? But, can't you get a glimpse of them during the day? And, is it worth the chunk of time it would take & $$? Though I thought I'd read you could only see certain rare birds on Stewart, then I'd think I'd read the same thing about another area? So, will the south east coast fill that slot more efficiently without losing that much in the experience? The 'not much there' comment makes me think maybe so. Interesting about Sam Neil - & now that you mention it, I think I saw him mention it in an interview a few years ago. I'll definitely add that one to my list! I'll take a look at that figure 8 plan. I've taken note of Melnq8's well done reports & good info - I think I've read all of hers in the past. I've probably read some of kiwi_rob's as well, but will double check on that. I guess it's time to seriously review them anyway. I know about the weather - from report & reading. I'd hoped to go next February or March (because of that), but that doesn't look possible now. I usually pack a whole lot into trips, not wanting to miss a thing. I've enjoyed them, but I think I want to try to take this one a bit more easy. So, I'll plan & trim if necessary. |
The Doubtful Sound overnight has gotten very good reviews on this board. It's expensive, but it's more isolated than Milford and takes some doing to reach. The Milford Sound overnight takes the same route as the Milford Sound day cruises, but there is some kayaking and of course an overnight on the boat. I can't compare the two overnights as I've not done either. I just can't justify the cost.
There's also a Doubtful Sound day trip, which takes 8 hours. This is the one I'd like to take. Here's some info: http://www.realjourneys.co.nz/main/doubtfuldaytime/ It really comes down to cost, time and which of the two interests you the most. A less expensive way to see the sounds is to watch the movie Ata Whenua in Te Anau. It's fantastic, and only cost $10. Yes, there are LOTR sights on the SI. The Glenorchy area (Mt Aspring National Park) comes to mind. http://www.movie-locations.com/movies/l/lotr1.html About Stewart Island - yes the ferry can be rough. I've taken it. Motion sickness tabs help. Stewart Island isn't a day trip IMO. It's expensive to get there and as much of the island is inaccessible by car, you need time to explore it. Eighty-five percent of the island is National Park. To see some of the endangered birds, you'll need a guide who knows where to look and when to go. If you drive and take the ferry, you must pay to park you car in Bluff. From there the ferry will take you to Stewart Island. I'd allow at least three nights. http://www.stewartisland.co.nz/ |
I had just finished reading just about every word on realjourneys website when I checked & found your kind post, Melnq8. Yes, I was doing some digging & the Doubtful overnight is the one I had had in mind. kodi, who posts on here gives it her highest recommendation. You are right though - it's pricey, but hey, most of the prices I've seen so far are.
I do have a question though. Which place would be the best from which to board? Somehow in the literature, it seems to hint that they are driving you to another location to board? - I was fuzzy on that. So, if I am already in QT, is it best to just board there or is there some advantage to do it elsewhere ( besides price - which I see varies a bit depending on the location ). I'm still taking a hard look at the price as well. I bookmarked your Stewart Island link. That is really helpful! So, if it came to a choice between the Doubtful Sound & Stewart Island, which would you choose? I seems that Stewart Island can be somewhat pricey as well - esp. if we fly in/out @$175 each. |
Regarding Doubtful Sound: You must first board a boat to cross Lake Manapouri, which is located about two hours from QT, or a short drive from Te Anau. Once across the lake, you board a bus that takes you to the power station and then across Wilmot Pass, where you board the boat to Doubtful.
Doubtful Sound is isolated and considerably more difficult to reach than Milford. I believe the overnight cruise leaves Manapouri around noon, so you have plenty of time to drive there from QT, or I'm sure there's a Real Journey's bus. I'm not sure what the parking situation is like at Lake Manapouri though, so if you drive yourself, you'll want to look into that. Given the choice between Doubtful Sound and Stewart Island, I'd go for Doubtful Sound personally. |
I agree with Mel that Stewart Island would be a destination visit rather than in and out, and you'd miss the opportunity for Fjord country so with irony, be Doubtful.
For Penguins, there are other opportunities and http://www.penguin.net.nz/ gives plenty of detail. |
I'll be away from the computer today. Will check with you guys tonight. Thanks again for the replies. I'm still not clear on that Manapouri exchange - but will re-read later when I can take my time.
Bushranger, :) about the pun. Seems like it's a consensus. |
Seems as though it's up to yourself to get to Lake Manpouri, either driving or taking a bus if there are from QT which I'd expect so.
Then you'll be with the Cruise people, first on the lake and then they'll take you on a bus to the head of Doubtful Sound or wherever that Cruise commences from, and then back by Bus and back across LM - mentions on the site a total of eight hours. . http://www.realjourneys.co.nz/Main/FAQs/ |
I don't have the time to read all of the other replies, but will just address the pengies and the Milford/Doubtful debate
For penguins, your timing is quite good, I believe. I've seen the Fiordland penguins on the Doubtful Sound cruise, and was even more excited to see them at Munro Beach in Fiordland (they were on the right side of the beach as you face the water). More info here http://www.doc.govt.nz/conservation/...-tawaki/facts/ The yellow eyed penguin is a bit easier to find, Penguin Place allows you to get very very close (like an arm's length if you are lucky) because they have a system of trenches and camo nets... it's really quite an entertaining scene with walkie talkies and sightings of named penguins being relayed among the staff. There are more natural ways to see them, Elm Wildlife tours out of Dunedin does a good job (not just the penguins, you'll see the albatross and probably fur seals as well). http://www.penguinplace.co.nz/ http://www.elmwildlifetours.co.nz/home/ As far as the Milford - Doubtful debate, I've done both (has anyone else here making recommendations?) I prefer Milford for the scenery of Mitre Peak. To me, Doubtful doesn't look that much different, for example, than going out on Lake Te Anau. And it's a long, long, day. If I had a choice of going back, I would still go to Milford. |
mlgb: Well, that is a helpful post as well. I do love nature & I do love the water, but, it seems, many of the trips I've been on, I end up on a long (somewhat boring?) boat ride. The one I did in Victoria, BC recently was an exception to the rule, if not totally self fulfilling in the whale department.
So, if I'm understanding you correctly, the Milford Sound Day cruise provides the scenery of Mitre Peak? ...or is it the overnight that is necessary? I'm not sure we'll be in Dunedin at the proper time (the season begins on Nov. 15 & I hope to be leaving around the 18th - so likely to be farther north by then. That is, if we fly out of Auckland). But, I've taken note & will see if we can tweak the times. Many thanks to all, again. |
Oh, and I'd prefer to do the driving - no coach, unless absolutely necessary.
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Mitre Peak is seen on both the day and night cruises in Milford. It's the same sound. In fact, technically you don't even need to get on a boat to see Mitre Peak, you can see it from the boat terminal.
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Melnq8: I'm puzzled. Are you suggesting I skip the boat cruise altogether?
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Not at all, just pointing out how accessible it is.
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Hi OleSouthernbelle!
Let's see if I can scroll up and answer your questions without getting dizzy! 1. Which boat company? IMO, Real Journeys. I've been booking with them for 15 years and never had a client complain, and that says alot. Of course, I've been on them myself and interacted with the staff in the Queenstown office who are extremely helpful and accommodating. 2. Heli or not to heli? Well, I love helicopters and take a trip on one on almost every vacation to Australia or New Zealand, so I'm biased. I will say that the combo of motorcoach IN to Milford and heli BACK is a good one -- otherwise you're just seeing the same thing, although most people are asleep on the bus on the way back! (it's a looonng day stuck in a coach). That said, with weather being unpredicable, there's the very good chance your heli on the way back will be cancelled (happens all the time!) and then you'll be....on the motorcoach! Sleeping. You will get a refund with Real Journeys (I've had this happen a few times with clients, so I know). 3. Winery - Sam Neill's winery is Two Paddocks and has been producing great wine for years. He's also a frequent patron of the "Saffron" restaurant in Arrowtown, but I have yet to see him! I did drive by his house actually and there was some guy on a tractor who waved at me,and I prefer to think it WAS him (although odds are slim, but just let me have my fantasy!). Wine tours are good - leave the driving to someone else (they have a lower DUI limit than we do here), and then there's that whole driving on the other side thing that really doesn't mix well after your 4th winery! But, if your son isn't into wine I think he'd be totally bored. Just sample some wine on the deck of your hotel or in one of the many pubs/restaurants in Queenstown! 4. As far as rare birds on Stewart Island, as with any wildlife viewing, there's no guarantee you'll actually see any. Silly wildlife just won't keep to any schedule! So, you have to weigh the costs involved with the very real possibility that it might end up just seeing some nice scenery. Obviously, odds decrease with a day trip vs. a 3 day stay. 5. Doubtful vs. Milford. Either one is excellent. With Doubtful, you'll find less tourists, more money to get there & back. Either can be accessed from Queenstown - Real Journeys will take care of that for you. Now, if you do an overnight on Milford, you get that "less tourist" thing happening when all the other day boats go home. The whole atmosphere completely changes - it's pristine and silent. You can take out a kyack before dinner, (which is great, btw), or go out the next morning before the boat heads back - magical! So, I agree with Mlgb on that. 6. Hangi -- oh, this could be one stop shopping for you -- by all means, go to the Kiwi Haka presentation at the top of Bob's Peak, operated by Skyline! This is a very very good presentation, small, and short (vs. many on the North Island that are mass produced, long and tacky-touristy). The Maori dancers will come out after the show, stand outside the entrance and pose for photo ops as well as answer any questions you might have about the dances, their culture, etc. They're teriffic (and I've been to waaay too many of these things)! This is a good one. Here's the website below. Also, you said no bungy jumping, but for some soft adventure, do the LUGE. I think you and your son would have a BLAST! You start out on the Beginners Course, but feel sure you could do the Advanced right after the first run. Great fun! Back to the wine again -- get there to see the sunset, you grab a wine, your son grabs a beer and enjoy the amazing views! Plus, you can also check out their site for some walks as well. www.skyline.co.nz/queenstown/walking www.skyline.co.nz/queenstown/kiwihaka Hope this has been helpful! Regards, Melodie Certified Kiwi Specialist |
wlamatilda: Thank you for your clarity. It helps!
I do have a couple questions: What about taking the heli up to Milford & the coach return, since the return may default to coach anyways? In fact, I had told DS I may do the luge. But, I envisioned the reclined position tube-like track of the Olympics. The video link you provided people are in motorcycle positions? I could do that for sure. I'll also check with him about the Kiwi Haka presentation. In fact, I think I'm going to link this whole thread to him so he'll know what we're discussing/considering. I've had one major wrench thrown in & not sure, but this trip may be postponed until February. That is a preferred time to go, weather wise, anyway, right? |
Hi Olesouthernbelle!
You're welcome! Taking the heli up is fine too, it helps to have some "wiggle room" -- plan it for the first day you're in Queenstown, and then if the weather looks like it's going to be bad, push it back a day or two if necessary. Oh, do the luge - you'll love it! Oh, right, the tube-like track, easy where you would think that, but it's not like that, although there is a curve on the side. No reclining position, you'll be sitting up, as you say, "motorcycle position, except it's more like TRICYCLE position! That's about what it's like except much lower to the ground. The Beginner run is good to get the feel of it and the Advanced has some "mogels", so hit that with some speed and wheeeee! While talking about thrills -- take the Shotover Jet Boat --all you have to do is hang on and the driver will do the rest; it's really alot of fun. If your trip gets postponed to February, you're still in good shape. Oh, when I was scrolling down I noticed something about LOTR sites -- if you're a fan of that, just so you know, there's actually no building left as that was a condition of the contract to do filing - they had to leave things as they found them; so, if you (or your son) have seen these movies repeatedly, I guess you'd be able to "see" everything the guides mention; just didn't want you to expect a "set". Regards, Melodie Certified Kiwi Specialist |
Actually, I'd originally planned this trip for Feb. or Mar., but this changed when I understood DS was returning home for good before Christmas.
As one does sometimes, he's now sounding like he's changing his mind. I think I'd read the weather was optimum during Jan.- March. But Holiday - school being out, etc. made February & March the recommended months. DH will probably come if I come during that time, so it may work out for the best. January is his peak hunting time here. |
I posted too soon, I have an interest in the recognizable LOTR sites, if there are any. I've read the books & it & seen the movies once. So, it's not like I'm a HUGE fan - just liked the scenery.
TY, again. |
Hi Again!
The only site I'm aware of that actually has intact sites is this one, on the North Island. I've actually met this guy once at a seminar, and he "lucked out" on being able to do this unlike the other sites; by then, it had been decided that everything had to come down when the movie crew left. http://www.tourism.net.nz/listings/f...he-rings-tours |
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