tomarkot -

You're very welcome.

I'm in the US at the moment organizing our next international move and haven't had a chance to do much more than skim Fodor's. I look forward to reading every word of your report when things calm down a bit.

Melnq8, nice to hear from you! By your next "international move" do you mean an actual change of your living location, or an extended vacation? Either way, good luck in your vent ure.

An actual move, which unfortunately isn't to a garden spot :)

Currently waiting on visas, so not yet ready to spill the beans.

Hi again tomarkot - Just now had a chance to finish reading your report - yep, AUS and NZ pies, while good in their own right, aren't to be confused with their Yank cousins!

<Around every corner was another awesome view.>

Which pretty much sums up how I feel about the SI.

Rain...yes, the surreal green of the SI comes at a price. I'm glad you had a nice day in Punakaiki though.

So glad to hear you enjoyed Glen Fern Villas, and that Michelle and Craig took good care of you in Wanaka as did Jane in Te Anau. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at all three.

No rain at Mt Cook! Woo-hoo!

Melnq8,

Thanks for your responses to our SI report. We thought you'd enjoy the fact that, in following your leads, we had some wonderful experiences. Your generous sharing of ideas really contributed "big time" to our enjoyment of the SI.

Best wishes to you in your current big undertaking! Hope all works out for the best. Keep us posted.

Did you by any change prepare packing lists? I've not read this full report, but will soon. We are planning Australia and New Zealand with Collette Tours in February so are just working on the details.
Thanks.

Hi tomarkot. I have just read both of your trip reports. Really enjoyed both - you have a lovely descriptive way of writing. It is always interesting to read what others think of your country (I live in NZ), and places you know well such as the West Coast.
I chuckled at your Homer Tunnel experience. At least your DW didn't do what I did - threaten to get out and wait on the side of the road till my DH came back from Milford! Needless to say I didn't but held my breath for the 10-minute trip through the tunnel. I must admit to not being so alarmed on the return trip, though. (In my defence I do suffer from mild claustrophobia.) Lake Manapouri and Doubtful Sound are magnificent on a rainy day although quite a few people on our tour were not quite so impressed.
Pleased to hear you had such a wonderful trip. I have copied the names of some of the restaurants you dined at in Sydney as I am returning to Sydney in July for 10 days, this time with my DH. Won't worry about the chef-less restaurant though!

Hi Tomarkot,
I've enjoyed your trip report enormously - thank you so much.
As Dotty says, it's always interesting to see your home through visitors' eyes, and particularly so when the visitor is as interested and observant as you.

In Sydney, the place you liked so much is Rose Bay.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rose_Bay,_New_South_Wales

Our family has a flat in O'Sullivan Road (perpendicular to the harbour) which has been the weekend refuge for batallions & generations of cousins incarcerated in Kambala, Kincoppal & Scotts (boarding schools). My grandparents bought it in 1930, during the Depression, pulled their 6 children out of boarding schools in Orange & Bathurst. Grandma set up house & sent them to the local schools as day schollars until things improved.

Did you know that quiet little bay was once home to the Catalinas & Flying Boats? http://www.clubmarine.com.au/interne...MG19-6+Feature

Today, little seaplanes fly from Rose Bay to restaurants in Pittwater, Newcastle & joy flights up & down the coast.

I was delighted to see your mention of the Church of the Good Shepherd at Lake Tekapo. One of my friends was married there - the bride's family has been farming in the Mackenzie district for over 100 years and it's their local church.

Dottyp and Bokhara2, thanks so much for your comments on our Trip Report. You certainly have a beautiful country! Bokara2, how fortunate to have that family property near Rose Bay!

We've been "away from the store", so to speak, regarding posting on Fodor's. We're just now working on our Fiji segment and hope to post it soon.

Finally, our report of "Fiji"!

Pt. 3 5 DAYS IN FIJI

After 3+ weeks of daily “on the go” with great experiences in Sydney and Port Douglas, AUS, as well as in the South Island, NZ, it was now time for a change of pace in our travels. We planned a 5-day stopover in Fiji in order to break up our flight back to the US, as well as to enjoy 5-days of R & R
in the South Pacific.

We left Christchurch on a 10:30 AM non-descript flight to Auckland where we would transfer to Air Pacific for the 3-hour flight to Fiji. Of the 10 flights involved in this trip itinerary, this experience on Air Pacific was memorable for the hassles over our luggage weight, with a less than helpful gate agent, followed by a very uncomfortable flight. Our seats were in the middle section, three rows behind the bulkhead and rows of loud, crying kids who seemed out of control. Although the flight was only three hours, it seemed longer than other flights of longer duration. When we finally landed in Nadi we were happy that we had pre-booked transportation to our “Outrigger on the Lagoon Resort“, which was about an hour’s drive from the airport.

In the Nadi Airport, as we were greeted with many warm smiles and “Bulas” (the official greeting) from the Fijian “Welcome Committee”, the unpleasant experiences on the Air Pacific flight were soon forgotten. We easily found the Transfer Company with which we had booked our transportation to the resort, and within minutes after signing our contract, we were in the comfortable air-conditioned van with Josia our driver. Several weeks before our trip, Fiji had so much rain and flooding that the road from the airport to our resort was closed, requiring guests to use helicopter transportation to the tune of approx.$260 per person each way. The conditions in Fiji had us trying to re-do our itinerary and eliminate our stop there. However, since that was impossible to work out, we decided to just go with the flow and hope for the best. We were relieved when Josia told us that the heavy rains seemed to be over. . . that we were in for a series of nice days. Even though the flooding was several weeks past, most of the road was very muddy, filled with potholes, no line markings, and often requiring one-way traffic without any signage, making the drive more challenging, and as darkness fell, there was no lighting. They were in the process of re-surfacing parts of the road. We were glad that we hadn’t rented a car, but could relax as Josia, who spoke excellent English, masterfully negotiated the roads and en route gave us a running commentary on Fiji. We could observe the poor living conditions of the Fijian people. We learned from Josia that Fiji is a British Commonwealth. 30% of the population are Asian Indians. Apparently, the English took Indians as indentured servants to work in the sugar cane fields, and allowed them to “earn” their freedom and land via hard work. There are two theories regarding the origins of the native Fijians, either South Africa or Papua, New Guinea. Fiji’s government has gone through numerous transitions with accompanying instability. The current political leader is “Commodore Frank”, who took over in 2000 through a military coup. He had been the head of the military. Apparently, very few people knew or were bothered by the change. They know the government is filled with corruption and feel that there is nothing they can do. We subsequently learned that the Indians are at the core of the business development in Fiji. The Fijian people are generally very friendly with big smiles. They know that tourism is their #1 economic priority, while the brown sugar cane industry remains #2.

As we were listening to Josia and taking in the poverty in the villages we passed, we were also enjoying the first of several phenomenal sunsets. After an hour+ drive, it was totally dark as we entered the gates of the “Outrigger on the Lagoon Resort“, and were welcomed by the hotel “greeter” yelling “Bula”. This was the first of many “Bulas” we would receive as we entered the reception area.

Under the canopy of the front entrance, a string of golf carts (“buggies“, to them) were lined up, with eager drivers waiting. We learned that these provided transportation for guests to get around the resort, which is built into a steep hillside. Because we got a reasonable room rate on our 5-day stay, we had booked and pre-paid for a Deluxe Oceanview Room. As we approached the registration, we were hoping that our room fit the online description. As it turned out, our room was in a building on the level of the restaurants, pool, and beach, with a side-on view of the ocean and the lagoon. With this room came a “butler” service which meant that daily about 5 PM champagne and canapés were delivered to our room. We were initially assigned to a 2nd floor unit, which involved quite a steep set of stairs. Not so convenient with DW was nursing a knee injury. Our buggy driver Jon was sensitive to our situation and suggested that, before unpacking, we return to the reception and request a 1st floor room. This new room turned out to be a terrific move. We could walk over a wooden bridge and access the pool, the restaurants, and the beach.

Feeling very hungry from the long day, we walked the short distance to the Asian Restaurant where we enjoyed our usual drinks of wine and beer and split a pork chop meal.

The “Outrigger on the Lagoon Resort” has five restaurants, in addition to a bar area and a café. A focal point of the resort is a large, beautiful pool, described in the tour books as an outstanding feature. As indicated above, our purpose in visiting Fiji was to shorten our flight back to the US, and enjoy a little R & R, and our days seemed to follow a fairly regular rhythm. We began our mornings having a leisurely coffee on our private deck, where we enjoyed watching the variety of birds in the lagoon and the horses whose pasture was just across the lagoon. The surf of the ocean in the morning was very refreshing. Afterward, we called for our “buggy” ride up the steep hill to the main building where the reception, many shops, and all tourist activities are located. The little store located there was our stop for bottled water and OJ. We enjoyed our daily breakfast of croissants and cappuccinos in the café as we took advantage of their free WiFi. We were attempting to plan a meeting with our brother in Santa Monica, our next destination, so internet access was important to us. Following our little breakfast, each day we enjoyed exploring one of the little shops or kiosks displaying locally made jewelry. Then it was time for a buggy ride down to our building, where we prepped for our beach/pool time. Lunch was at one of their casual restaurants. A little more enjoyment of the beach and it was time for happy hour with champagne and canapés delivered to our room. For dinner, we made the rounds of the restaurants at the resort. A favorite of ours was the “Sunset Bar” which overlooked the ocean, and was especially nice at sunset, as its name suggests. A visit to the ice cream bar followed by a stroll on the beach or around the pool, or sitting on our own deck, was a typical ending of our day.

We had two exceptions to our normal pattern. One evening we had dinner at a nearby smaller resort, “The Bedarra Beach Inn“. It was a good variety, but we decided that we were happy that we had chosen the “Outrigger“. On another evening, we visited the bar/lounge of the BeBe Spa, located at the top of the property. This was a classy little place serving drinks and tapas, and a perfect location for having our dinner while viewing the sunset. The panoramic view of the ocean from this hilltop point was outstanding.

Since we hung at the resort for 5 days, we really got to know and like some of the buggy drivers, the waiters/waitresses, and the locals who were making and selling their wares (mostly jewelry) in the hotel. We had frequent long discussions with a few of them and learned a lot about their families, and their way of life. It was interesting to learn that most of them had never left their island. Also remarkable was how their faces lit up when asked if they liked school. They answered with emotion: “Yes!” They seemed to have a genuine desire to improve their situations and were very appreciative of any tips which we tried to make sure were on the generous side.

This experience of spending all of our time in one resort is unique for us. Normally, when we visit an island, we rent a car and explore. We enjoy “beach-hopping” and finding local restaurants throughout an island. As noted above, the condition of the roads on the island of Vitu Levu made us glad that we hadn’t rented a car. Before leaving home we had been following the news regarding the heavy rains and serious flooding reported in the Fijian papers and elsewhere, and were hesitant to plan any excursions to the out islands, some of which were also affected. When we reached the “Outrigger“, and became aware of its large size with more than adequate restaurants and activities, as well as the opportunity to connect with many Fijians, we were surprised that we were enjoying the days so much that the time passed very quickly.

On our last evening, as we were enjoying our after-dinner cappuchinos at the “Sunset Grill”, our table was surrounded by the “full-court” press of the musician with his guitar and a group of waiters/waitresses who were serenading us a “Farewell”. This brought home the realization that our five days there were actually coming to a close, that we had better start packing, and plan to check out by 11:00 AM, although our flight did not depart until 10:30 PM. With our luggage checked at the hotel, we were able to enjoy our final day dogging the rain interspersed with sun where could get our last taste of the ocean surf.

We requested our pick-up for the airport an hour earlier than assigned, and upon arriving at the airport with the crowds of people, were glad that we did. Our last encounter was with an Indian transport driver, who was impeccably dressed and spoke fluent English. We had a good discussion with him about his family and life in Fiji, but were saddened to learn that the transport company was owned by a big Fijian company who paid the drivers very small wages. To get to and from work, this man had to walk 45 minutes from his house to the main road and then catch a public bus to the airport. He was happy that we had requested our car an hour earlier, as he was able to get home at a more decent time. As we collected our luggage and said “Farewell“, we again realized how easy we have it compared to a lot of people.

The lines were long for check-in on Air Pacific at the Nadi Airport. Contrary to our luggage hassle on the first Air Pacific flight, this check-in, though long, was smooth. The choices for meals at the airport were very meager, but at this point, we were just eager to complete the 10 hr.+ flight to LAX. We caught a couple of hours of sleep, though sitting up isn’t quite the restful variety. Our neighbors on the flight were an Oregon couple who were both avid-outdoors people who had just spent a month in Fiji. The last part of the flight passed quickly as we exchanged ideas about our experiences in Fiji.

As we were departing, we agreed that on a future trip it would be fun to stay on one or two of the out islands. We missed the experience of the beautiful reefs and fish in the surrounding waters. Next trip, we would hope not to encounter the rains and floods which affected so much. The outstanding sunsets will always be in our memories of Fiji.

tomarkot -

I'm so glad to hear that Fiji worked out okay, as I know you were concerned about how the flooding would affect your visit.

Sounds like a wonderful place to R&R.

Glad it worked out for you tomarkot. The Outrigger is a nice spot to hole up when you can't get out & about. Lovely part of the Coral Coast. Friends have a house between there & the Bedarra.

Can't say or hear "Bula" without smiling, can you?

Melnq8 and Bokhara2, thanks for your responses to our Fiji report. Must be wonderful to have a place on that Coral Coast. We made the best of the situation and ended up enjoying it, although our report has been slow in coming. After Fiji, we were ready to return to the US. We're working on our report of that last segment of our trip.

Pt. 4 Santa Monica: Perfect Weather, Pacific Coast, Presidential Library

After returning to LAX from a month-long trip to Sydney, Australia, South Island, New Zealand, and Fiji, we chose to spend four days around Santa Monica before returning to our home in the Midwest. This is the third year we’ve visited the area after returning from a longer trip out of the US.

Our 10-hour flight from Fiji arrived at LAX about 1:00 PM, and after a rather long wait at immigration and customs, we were happy to check in at our Renaissance Hotel, compliments of Marriott points, and use the convenient $5.00 roundtrip shuttle to Manhattan Beach. We had a great late lunch-early dinner at a fav restaurant, the “Rock and Fish“, and meandered down to the pier to enjoy our first of four fabulous sunsets. We returned to our hotel by about 8 PM, and enjoyed some dessert & coffee in the Executive Lounge at the Renaissance Hotel, an “extra” offered to us at check-in. Nice! The personnel at this hotel were very welcoming and super-friendly. We had no doubt but that our night would be extremely restful compared to the cramped seat on the “red-eye” Air Pacific flight.

The following morning, Friday, we picked up our rental car, conveniently located directly across the street from the Renaissance Hotel, and headed up to the Marriott Marina del Rey, our home for the next three evenings. Lunch was at another of our favs, "Tony P’s", located right on the marina. Having stayed at this location in the past, we felt comfortable finding our way around the area. So we headed down to Santa Monica, enjoyed the Third Street Promenade, the oceanfront walk, and an apple struddel dessert at the “Blue Oysterette” on Ocean Blvd. We were in for another outstanding sunset. Dinner was outdoors at “Café Crepe“, located on Third Street.

Each year we take advantage of a cultural opportunity. This year it was the Reagan Library. Saturday dawned another beautiful day. We left our hotel about 9AM for a pleasant drive to Simi Valley. Traffic flowed smoothly. Although we’ve been in this area of LA several times, we had never been to Simi Valley, and were impressed with the beauty of the surroundings of the library. Arriving soon after the opening, we were able to get a convenient parking spot and begin our tour with a comfortable-sized crowd. We were told that seeing all parts of the library at a comfortable pace would take about three hours. But we found the whole experience to be extremely interesting and informative, with state of the art technology reflected throughout, highlighted by the opportunity to go through a retired Air Force One. We enjoyed talking to a few of the docents. Presidential libraries, of course, tend to portray that president’s most positive characteristics and accomplishments. But no matter what a person’s political persuasion, it seems that no one could leave this library without being impressed. The library emphasized Reagan’s communication skills, including his sense of humor, his expressions of hope and inspiration, and his relationship with Mikhail Gorbachov, emphasizing his belief in the necessity of communicating with one’s “enemies” in order to achieve the ends we want. We’ve visited a couple of other presidential libraries, and think that none could compare with this gorgeous natural setting. Outside of a break for lunch at the café, seated on the patio overlooking the valley, we found that taking in all the aspects of the library consumed the whole day. Before leaving the interior of the library, a refreshing break was a cold beer in the Reagan Pub on the ground floor. It was constructed with the interior of a pub in County Tipperary, the home of the Reagan family, when it was sold. A Reagan supporter had purchased the contents and had them shipped. And, of course, they had Guinness!

The library itself was closing, but we still wanted to pay a visit to President’s Reagan’s gravesite. Since his death was within recent years, remembering the funeral on TV, it felt like a “déjà vu”. The site itself, with the layers of mountains looking toward the Pacific, is very impressive.

Since we were leaving the library after 5:30, it was too late to follow our original plan of crossing one of the canyon roads off the freeway over to the coast to enjoy sunset. So we viewed our third beautiful sunset from afar. Spending the whole day at the library was tiring, and being Saturday evening, we knew we’d have to wait to eat in downtown Santa Monica. So we chose to return to Marina del Rey and have dinner at Tony P’s, where we were able to be seated rather quickly.

When we awoke on Sunday, a fog hung over the marina, and we thought that our anticipated day on the coast toward Malibu wouldn’t happen. But about 11 AM, the sun began to appear and the fog burned off. So it was off to one of fav drives along the coast to Malibu, which has turned into a must-do for us. We had a late lunch at the “Sunset Restaurant” facing Sunset Beach, and afterward enjoy a leisurely stroll. We envied the students at Pepperdine University, located nearby on a hill along the Pacific Coast Highway. En route back to Santa Monica, we stopped at a familiar location for cappuccinos. We made it back to Santa Monica just in time to park, walk down to the ocean for our last beautiful sunset, and have dinner at Il Fornaio on Ocean Ave. Unfortunately, the time had come to return to Marina del Rey and get packed for our morning flight home.

As we prepared to leave, we felt lucky to have had 3 ½ gorgeous days. The morning of our flight, the temperatures were chillier, and the skies were overcast. As we made our way to LAX we felt grateful that during our brief stay in the area the weather was near perfect. It made it a bit easier to return home to the Midwest, where, oddly, the temperature was higher than in LA.

After two non-descript flights, we were greeted with “early spring” as the daffodils and forsythia were in full bloom. However, no matter, there were no palm trees, and no ocean coast.

We got our “fix” of ocean coast and Southern California in Santa Monica and were ready to delve into the myriad of things waiting for us at home, having wonderful memories of our month-long trip.

I've read up through the Australian portion of your trip, and will be back to finish up.

I'm enjoying your travels.

Toucan2, thanks for your interest in our report!

I finally got back to finish reading the rest. It sounds like a truly wonderful trip. Thank you again for sharing.

Toucan2, we're complimented that you read our entire report. It did get long, but then, we had so many experiences that we wanted to remember.

The few rainy days we encountered seem like nothing compared to the experience of another Fodorite, Melnq8, who is there now. . .with unseasonably cold weather and rain. In general, we lucked out with mostly good weather. Of course, we were there during their summer.