Songdoc's "Mini" NZ Trip Report: Auckland, Wellington & Abel Tasman
 

First the background: DP (59) and I (55) are lucky enough to work in New Zealand every year, so this was our fourth trip in as many years. That means our free time was limited – but we had already visited gorgeous Queenstown; Milford Sound; the Bay of Islands; the Kapiti Coast; Rotorua, Abel Tasman, Christchurch, the glow worms, and Havelock North on previous trips. Hence the “mini” report. This was the first time we saw the country during its spring/summer: November 21st - December 7th.

I started in Auckland where most of my time would be spent working. When we had a few hours off, a colleague offered to take us to see the gannet colony at Muriwai Beach—less than 30 minutes from Auckland CBD. It was FANTASTIC!!! The beach is absolutely gorgeous—windswept and rugged, with stunning cliffs. There were countless gannets nesting and we were close enough to see the babies poking their heads out from under their moms. I got some beautiful photos and had a wonderful day.

Our first accommodations in Auckland were at the Oaks on Hobson. The main complaint I’ve heard about this apartment hotel is that one must walk past a mission where homeless people congregate, to get the few blocks to the heart of the city. That didn’t bother me in the least and I found it convenient. I’d booked a one-bedroom apartment for $94 (US) per night – and was upgraded to a 2-bedroom. This included a continental breakfast delivered to the room--and one hour of Internet. It was less than a 15 minute walk to the waterfront and Queen Street’s shopping and restaurants.

Later in the trip when we returned to stay in Auckland, we stayed at the Quest on Eden. It's a pleasant, quiet neighborhood, across from a park with massive trees that I fell in love with. This time we shared a studio apartment that cost $108/nt NZD. It was an attractive, quiet room -- but Internet had to be pre-purchased at the front desk (that was not always open during the weekend) and that was a pain. Otherwise, no complaints. Note: Overall, I find food to be a bit expensive in New Zealand – while lodging is quite inexpensive.

We’re not gourmet “foodies” or wine drinkers, preferring inexpensive, authentic ethnic meals to fancy restaurants. Several favorite Asian meals were at Kiwi Noodles on Durham Street (just off Queen). Lunch or dinner cost about $10 and was delicious! Kebabs at Istanbul kebabs on Queen Street were exceptional—on freshly baked Turkish bread. We enjoyed sitting outdoors on Queen Street and people watching.

On several evenings, a colleague took us to the Ponsonby food court. (Ponsonby’s an Auckland neighborhood, not more than a 10 minute drive from the CBD.) Every imaginable Asian food was available, as well as middle-Eastern and Italian. I tried delicious dishes from Malaysia and Laos. It’s not fancy – but the food was good—and around $15 per person. After dinner, we enjoyed strolling, admiring the beautiful old buildings, and browsing in the shops and galleries.

Our time in Wellington was virtually all work so I won’t say much except that it lived up to its moniker of “Windy Wellington.” I typically really enjoy Wellington – especially strolling and people-watching on Cuba Street with its interesting shops, music venues, cafes, and galleries. It’s a lively, vibrant scene. Despite it being late spring/early summer, the wind was so cold and intense that it made strolling along the waterfront downright unpleasant. I’ve been there when the weather was much better during their winter.

Our lodging was the Stratford on Willis apartment hotel. Great location. We stay there every year. $100 US for a nice studio apartment.

Flying out of Wellington was quite an adventure. The winds make it a notoriously bumpy ride, but I’d never had a serious problem … until this time! Shortly after take-off, the small plane lurched, shuddered, and plunged. The women in front of me had brought coffee on board. That coffee was soon dripping down from the ceiling. I thought there was a serious possibility that we were going down. But apparently, this is not all that uncommon!

After all this work, we deserved a break. We wanted someplace beautiful, where we could take long walks and enjoy the nature--and not feel compelled to drive a lot, explore, or get involved in activities. While we loved Queenstown, we knew that if we returned, we’d wind up driving to different areas every day—and probably return to Milford Sound. We're also lucky enough to have recently worked in Norway, where we'd seen gorgeous fjords and glaciers--so seeing the fjords in NZ wasn't a priority. We needed a place to rest—so we decided to spend our five days off in Abel Tasman.

On a previous trip there, we’d loved staying at Ocean View Chalets in Marahau. It’s not fancy—more of a rustic cabin, but a perfect location (walking distance to the park entrance)—and we’d been lucky to snag a cottage (#6) with an exceptional view. Unfortunately, it was booked solid.

The owners recommended a few other places, and we found an opening at Abel Tasman Stables. Not sure why it’s called “stables” – because I didn’t see any stables or horses. But we were very pleased. Again, not “fancy” or luxurious, but it worked perfectly for us—and was even a minute or two closer to the park entrance than the Ocean View Chalets. The cost was $135 (NZD) per night for the self-contained little cottage. The host (George) was very accommodating, and we enjoyed his garden, and the lovely, peaceful views, and bird-watching from our patio. The birds—and their songs—were amazing. The only negative was no Internet. But we got WiFi for our laptop for $5/hour at the nearby Abel Tasman Center.

I absolutely loved our time in Abel Tasman. It was just what the doctor ordered. With its crystal clear, turquoise and emerald bays, and lush ferns and foliage, I think Abel Tasman must be one of the most beautiful places on this earth.

On my first visit to Abel Tasman, I was confused and nervous about the logistics. Here’s the deal: From Marahau, you can walk into the park – and then turn back when you’ve walked enough – OR you can take one of several water taxis from Marahau or Kaiteriteri to one of several drop-off spots within the park, and either walk back, or walk to a pre-arranged pick-up spot.

FYI, these are easy walking trails—not demanding, treacherous hikes—and the trails are clearly marked.

Most days, we simply walked in—then backtracked after a couple of hours of soaking in the exquisite views. We especially loved Tinline Bay – about a 30 minute walk from the park entrance.

But a highlight of the trip was taking a water taxi to Bark Bay, and walking several hours to be picked up at Torrent Bay. During the “taxi” ride, we spotted a penguin paddling by the boat, and numerous seals lounging on the rocks. The driver took a short detour to show us “Split Apple Rock.”

The beaches and bays were incredibly beautiful—and the color of the water never stopped amazing me. We took every little side trail—and each one offered views that were as good as it gets. This particular walk crosses a swinging bridge, and I’m told it includes some of the best scenery in the park. I don’t doubt that. (You’ll see the pictures!)

Another day, we took the short drive (approximately 20 minutes) to Kaiteriteri. On the way, a turn off for Split Apple Rock Beach became another highlight. It was a “moderate” 10 minute walk down to the beach, where more incredibly beautiful views waited. (I’m running out of superlatives!) There were wonderful tide pools and rocks covered with mussels and other sea life. Cormorants posed perfectly with the gigantic rock in the background. Then … DP found a cave just begging to be explored. It was great fun—and the views of the beach from within the cave were serious Kodak moments.

We eventually dragged ourselves away to continue on to Kaiteriteri—with several photo stops along the way. The Kaka Pah lookout was exceptional—and views of the enormous beach below were “wow.” When we arrived at Kaiteriteri, I found the promised, long, beautiful beach, but I was disappointed to find more of a bustling, resort atmosphere than is my cup of tea. We only stayed a few minutes before returning to the sense of peace and solitude back at our cabin.

By the way, to get to Abel Tasman we flew into Nelson (from Wellington) and rented a car. En route, we stopped in Mapua for a lovely picnic lunch with a beautiful bay view. There were several pricey restaurants with impressive menus and wine lists—but we opted for tasty sandwiches and coffees from Hamish’s.

Motueka’s about twenty minutes outside of Marahau, and it has a supermarket and a wide variety of restaurants. We bought prepared foods (i.e., roast chicken, and salads) and ate most of our meals on the patio at the cabin, watching the tui, pukekas (incredible birds), and the wild chickens.

We noticed a sign for "Rose Garden" in Motueka. WOW! There's no admission--and we were the only ones there. I've NEVER seen such stunning roses. This is a definite hidden gem for those who appreciate flowers.

You don’t even want to know how many photos I took. It was torture to narrow them down. Here’s a link:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...06%3A643946356

Next installment: Rotorua …

Lovely report Songdoc. As usual, I'm jealous of your numerous trips to NZ and Hawaii.

Did you happen to make it to Little Kaiterteri? Despite visiting the SI some 10 times, we didn't discover LK until our most recent visit. Quieter than Kaiteriteri (although Kaiteriteri has always been desserted when we visit, so we've never seen it bustling anyway).

Bark Bay to Torrent Bay is one of my favorite sections of the Abel Tasman Track, second only to the lesser walked section between Totaranui to Wainui.

Lovely to read...........trying to organise a 'spontaneous' week in NZ arriving 30 Dec......ahhhh thanks for the read, it helps.

Wonderful report, Songdoc.

Lee Ann

Thanks for the nice comments.

Melnq8: You can be jealous of Norway & Sweden, too ;-). LOVED them. Will be back to Kauai in January.

I wasn't aware of "Little Kaiteriteri," but hopefully, I'll get there next time. "Big" Kaiteriteri was WAY too busy and crowded for me. Interesting that it was quiet when you've visited. We were there on a beautiful, summer day--and it was bustling.

I also visited Sydney and Melbourne on this trip. That will be a separate report. Back to sorting out my photos and finishing the reports!

We travel waaay off season Songdoc...and for a reason.

Great report and photos Songdoc. Loved the one of the Tui.

We were at Kaiteriteri beach in mid-March and it was deserted. Great trip report! One of our favorite quick meals was at a kebab place in Queenstown. AT Stables sounds lovely.

Love it when you travel, SongDoc - always enjoy your reports and wonderful pics. Editing pics is torture, isn't it?

Nice to have you in our neck of the woods again and thanks for taking the time to share some of your trip with us.

Thanks for all the nice comments. Much appreciated.

Next installment: Rotorua …

A word about the weather … It was early summer in New Zealand—and except for a few cloudy days and showers, the weather was delightful—nothing like the sweltering summers I endure in Nashville. But while there were locals dressed in shorts and T-shirts, to us, the high temps that were mostly in the 60’s were pleasant--but cool for "summer." Occasionally, it hit the low 70’s and felt more like spring or fall than summer. There’s no way I could have laid out on a beach or enjoyed swimming (without a heated wetsuit) ;-) When I put my toes in the water at Abel Tasman, it seemed wayyyy too cold to me – but there were a few people swimming, and lots of them soaking up the sun in their swim suits. Brrrr ….

I was through with all my work obligations in Auckland early Monday afternoon – and didn’t need to fly out until Wednesday afternoon. Our colleague offered to drive us to Rotorua, and we jumped on the chance to return to one of our favorite places.

En route, we had an unexpected adventure: a blow-out! We seemed to be in the middle of nowhere, and her spare tire was the wrong size! It was a long wait until the Auto Club came to the rescue, and by the time the driver returned with a spare that we could use to follow him into town, much of the day had passed. Out three-hour drive stretched into five, but with a shiny new tire, we pulled into Rotorua in time for a very good Thai dinner at Wild Rice on Tutanekai Street. About a five-minute drive from the lake—or a fifteen-minute walk-- Tutanekai Street is closed to traffic and has a wide variety of dining options. Most of them include outdoor patios. We’d overlooked this section of town during our previous visit, and it’s a great place to eat. We returned and ate at Nando’s on the same street the following evening. We love Nando’s!

As you’ll see if you read my Australia trip report, we stumbled upon Nando’s in South Melbourne. The sign said, “Portuguese Flame-Broiled Chicken.” It’s nothing fancy—just a casual, semi-fast-food-type restaurant, but the chicken was incredibly good. We were quickly addicted and felt we’d found a special little secret. What a surprise we had when we saw another Nando’s across town—then, several in Sydney, and everywhere else we went down under (including a shopping mall.) We’d had no idea it’s a popular chain restaurant and thought we’d found a little hole-in-the-wall that was a gem ;-). It’s not “cheap,”considering there’s no atmosphere and you order at a counter--$35 - $40 for chicken, and two small side dishes for two – but we loved it.

In Rotorua, our rooms at the Sudima Hotel overlooked the lake, and were a steal at $70/night (NZD). I enjoyed soaking in the hotel’s indoor pool, and walking the trails around the lake—especially the trail that begins just next to the Polynesian Spa. In addition to the geothermal features, it has beautiful views across the lake. It was so interesting to see the bubbles and sputters coming up from the earth—and being reminded that the center of the rock on which we live is still a molten core. The trail has some interesting placards that describe the history and geothermal features.

I’ve heard of people who didn’t like Rotorua. My guess is that most of them didn’t venture out of the town. On a previous visit we saw the sheep show at the Agrodome, and attended a Maori Hangi. We enjoyed seeing the unusual varieties of sheep—and especially getting to pet them and pose for pix—and we enjoyed the hangi more than I’d have expected to. (It’s very similar to a commercial luau.) I’d also enjoyed a soak at the Polynesian Spa on my previous visit.

But, to experience what is unique about Rotorua one must visit one of the Volcanic Parks. Waimangu is spectacular with its colorful, bubbling pools and mineral deposits. I felt like I’d landed on another planet—and the outdoor café has views that look like Jurassic Park.

The only thing wrong with our stay in Rotorua was that it was too short. We bid a sad farewell to New Zealand with the renewed belief that it is indeed the most beautiful country on earth—with a wider variety of breathtaking scenery than anywhere else I’ve been.

I hope this report will help others with their planning.

We have Nando's all over Perth, but I've never tried them. Maybe I should!

Kaiteriteri is always packed out with tourists in the summer more particularly December to end of January. Campers with their caravans start arriving in droves from Boxing Day, most of them from Christchurch and stay at the same place every year. Not just the same camping ground, but the same camp site!!!!

Locals avoid the area until February when school has gone back and it is a lot less crowded.

I'm really enjoying your report, songdoc. Great ideas for our trip to New Zealand next year. I hope you don't mind me asking, what camera are you using...your pics are beyond amazing!

I agree, your pics are awesome and I'd love to know what kind of camera you have.

Thanks so much for the nice comments about the photos. I'll tell you my secret ...

I love taking photos and I take hundreds and hundreds of them. Actually, it wouldn't be unusual for me to take 1,500 or more shots on a trip to a beautiful place like NZ. But I only post the VERY best. (That's the beauty of digital.)

My camera? A Kodak EasyShare M381. It cost under $150 and fits in my pocket ;-).

I'm getting ready to post Australia's report and photo.

Again, thanks so much for the nice comments!

Okay now I've read this trip report as well - also terrific! Maybe we'll stick with New Zealand after all...... :)

Did you have any problems with "no-seeums" in Abel Tasman?

We did get a few bites. I think they were mosquitoes--and we got them while sitting on the porch, where we ate lots of our meals. We bought some repellant and didn't have any further trouble.

It was NOTHING compared to the bites I get in the summer in Nashville!

Songdoc, we'll be flying in and out of Auckland for seven days this summer. We love gorgeous beaches, quaint towns, out of the way places. What itinerary would you suggest to see as much as possible during that time? We probably won't want to do Rotorua as we've spent a good deal of time at Yellowstone. Abel Tasman sounds amazing, but it's probably too long a drive? Ideas?

Probably sandflies Songdoc.

CindyW - You can reach the SI via plane or ferry. With so few days, I'd suggest flying. Maybe look into flights from Auckland to Nelson. From Nelson, Abel Tasman is less than an hour's drive.