On the ground in wet and wild New Zealand - June 2012
Jun 4th, 2012, 07:44 PM
#1
On the ground in wet and wild New Zealand - June 2012
Greetings from wet and wild New Zealand! We arrived on the South Island early Sunday morning after a hastily booked trip...our Australian visas were just renewed last Tuesday and prior to that we couldn't make any firm plans. As a result, this three week trip was sussed out and booked in only four days, so hopefully it goes well.
I'd hoped to post my trip report as we go, but limited and sketchy internet service may prevent that, so I'll probably post a few tidbits here and there.
The highlight of the first day was a lovely late lunch at Mud House Winery in Waipara and the discovery of a fabulous Waipara Pinot Noir - Equinox.
Yesterday's highlight was the discovery of close to 100 seal pups frolicking in the pool beneath Ohau Falls along the Kaikoura coast - incredible. This, my friends, is one of the many perks to traveling in the off season - the gathering of the seal pups is a winter occurrence.
Today's highlight was walking the Elvy Waterfalls Track in Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve. There was a bit of rain involved (okay, more than a bit), but it didn't hamper our enjoyment of this lovely track. We also walked the Totara Walk, the Circle Walk and the Tawa Walk, which while enjoyable, were entirely too close to SH 6 for our tastes. By the way, Lord of the Rings fans might be interested to know that filming of The Hobbit just wrapped up at the Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve about four months ago. According to our accommodation host, they were rained out, as the valley flooded, wreaking all sorts of havoc.
We're now hunkered down in our accommodation in the Rai Valley warm and dry, while sporadic torrential rain splashes against our windows.
Stay tuned...
I'd hoped to post my trip report as we go, but limited and sketchy internet service may prevent that, so I'll probably post a few tidbits here and there.
The highlight of the first day was a lovely late lunch at Mud House Winery in Waipara and the discovery of a fabulous Waipara Pinot Noir - Equinox.
Yesterday's highlight was the discovery of close to 100 seal pups frolicking in the pool beneath Ohau Falls along the Kaikoura coast - incredible. This, my friends, is one of the many perks to traveling in the off season - the gathering of the seal pups is a winter occurrence.
Today's highlight was walking the Elvy Waterfalls Track in Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve. There was a bit of rain involved (okay, more than a bit), but it didn't hamper our enjoyment of this lovely track. We also walked the Totara Walk, the Circle Walk and the Tawa Walk, which while enjoyable, were entirely too close to SH 6 for our tastes. By the way, Lord of the Rings fans might be interested to know that filming of The Hobbit just wrapped up at the Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve about four months ago. According to our accommodation host, they were rained out, as the valley flooded, wreaking all sorts of havoc.
We're now hunkered down in our accommodation in the Rai Valley warm and dry, while sporadic torrential rain splashes against our windows.
Stay tuned...
Jun 5th, 2012, 10:55 AM
#4
Sadly it was too dark for photos of the seal pups sassy_cat - it was only 2 pm, but felt more like midnight back there in the rainforest. I got some good photos of the adult seals along the coast though.
We're under a severe weather warning here on the SI - it's snowing in many areas and some roads have been closed. It's wet and seriously blowy just about everywhere else. Should be an interesting drive to Murchison today, which incidentally, is our 30th wedding anniversary. Thirty years, holy moly we're getting old.
We're under a severe weather warning here on the SI - it's snowing in many areas and some roads have been closed. It's wet and seriously blowy just about everywhere else. Should be an interesting drive to Murchison today, which incidentally, is our 30th wedding anniversary. Thirty years, holy moly we're getting old.
Jun 5th, 2012, 10:57 PM
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Good to see your visas are now renewed, Mel, and you will continue to be in our neck of the woods. Will you still be based in WA?
Welcome back to NZ albeit the bitterly cold NZ today. Sitting here in Wellington in front of my heater with temperatures around 7 degrees, dropping to 4 overnight, and I am about to turn the heater up a notch. I mustn't complain though as it is quite tropical in comparison to Christchurch's maximum temp of 1 degree Celsius, dropping to -3 overnight!
Happy 30th Anniversary, and safe travels. Those of us who hit the 30+ anniversaries have done well. We celebrate 43 years in August. You are both spring chickens to me!
Welcome back to NZ albeit the bitterly cold NZ today. Sitting here in Wellington in front of my heater with temperatures around 7 degrees, dropping to 4 overnight, and I am about to turn the heater up a notch. I mustn't complain though as it is quite tropical in comparison to Christchurch's maximum temp of 1 degree Celsius, dropping to -3 overnight!
Happy 30th Anniversary, and safe travels. Those of us who hit the 30+ anniversaries have done well. We celebrate 43 years in August. You are both spring chickens to me!
Jun 6th, 2012, 04:32 AM
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Mel, Congratulations on your 30th wedding anniversary.
Enjoying your trip report with admiration as with weather that bad I might have stayed under the covers!
Temperatures are below average for June in Massachusetts (dropping into the 40's the last couple of nights around 7-8 C). I'll be ready for winter in Sydney at the end of the month.
Hearty congratulations to stormbird and dottyp for your upcoming August anniversaries
Enjoying your trip report with admiration as with weather that bad I might have stayed under the covers!
Temperatures are below average for June in Massachusetts (dropping into the 40's the last couple of nights around 7-8 C). I'll be ready for winter in Sydney at the end of the month.
Hearty congratulations to stormbird and dottyp for your upcoming August anniversaries
Jun 6th, 2012, 03:56 PM
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Congratulations, Mel, on your 30th Anniversary!!!
We're enjoying your ongoing trip report. You seem to be "weathering" the inclement weather, but after a while it must get discouraging. We wish you warmer temps and some sunny days. Will continue to follow your report.
We're enjoying your ongoing trip report. You seem to be "weathering" the inclement weather, but after a while it must get discouraging. We wish you warmer temps and some sunny days. Will continue to follow your report.
Jun 6th, 2012, 09:33 PM
#10
Many thanks to all for the good wishes...seems there are several of us child brides here.
Yesterday began in Nelson with cyclonic wind and rain that sent sandwich boards skittering down the streets and hair whipping about madly. We had a nice warming lunch at our fav Indian establishment (Little India) and poked around town for a bit. We'd hoped to visit a winery or two, but we missed the turnoff and the weather was just so nasty that we continued to forge ahead to Murchison. This turned out to be a wise decision as we encountered quite a bit of snow on Hope Saddle, which as it turned out, was the only route that hadn't yet been closed.
Almost froze to death in our accommodation last night, but at least we had electricity, unlike many in Christchurch.
What a difference a day makes...today we were hiking and the sky was back to blue by noon. Today's highlight...hiking in the snow in NZ for the first time in our 10 visits to the SI. Being from Colorado, we're all too familiar with snow, but never expected to see so much of it at low elevation in NZ.
As for the visas...sadly it's only temporary...Bill's new location work permit just came through and we'll be leaving WA sometime in July or August. The later the better, I say.
Yesterday began in Nelson with cyclonic wind and rain that sent sandwich boards skittering down the streets and hair whipping about madly. We had a nice warming lunch at our fav Indian establishment (Little India) and poked around town for a bit. We'd hoped to visit a winery or two, but we missed the turnoff and the weather was just so nasty that we continued to forge ahead to Murchison. This turned out to be a wise decision as we encountered quite a bit of snow on Hope Saddle, which as it turned out, was the only route that hadn't yet been closed.
Almost froze to death in our accommodation last night, but at least we had electricity, unlike many in Christchurch.
What a difference a day makes...today we were hiking and the sky was back to blue by noon. Today's highlight...hiking in the snow in NZ for the first time in our 10 visits to the SI. Being from Colorado, we're all too familiar with snow, but never expected to see so much of it at low elevation in NZ.
As for the visas...sadly it's only temporary...Bill's new location work permit just came through and we'll be leaving WA sometime in July or August. The later the better, I say.
Jun 7th, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Looking forward to more of your trip report. Off season travel can be an adventure in and of itself can't it?!
Happy belated anniversary from me as well. We are sneaking up on 29 (yes I was also quite young) and I am trying to persuade Steve that a trip to Australia would be a fine way to celebrate 30. I have a year to work on him. Sad to hear you are leaving WA.
Happy belated anniversary from me as well. We are sneaking up on 29 (yes I was also quite young) and I am trying to persuade Steve that a trip to Australia would be a fine way to celebrate 30. I have a year to work on him. Sad to hear you are leaving WA.
Jun 7th, 2012, 09:27 PM
#12
Off season travel can indeed be an adventure, Toucan, but I never have been much for doing as others do. Another old time married couple I see...I think a trip to OZ would be the perfect way to celebrate.
So, here I sit in the cold back bedroom of our Murchison cottage, laptop perched on top of a suitcase on top of a bed, me uncomfortably straddling the end of the bed because there's no place for my legs to go as I balance my tush on a small luggage stand and lean awkwardly over the suitcase....the drapes are open revealing moody dark skies and the magic little white box on the accommodation owner's porch that gives me Internet access. This is the only position in the entire cottage that will work and it's about as unergonomic as one can get, so I'll keep this short.
Today was another day of walking in the rain. First the 4.7 km Lyell Walkway, which leads through a former gold mining town, next the Six Mile Matakitaki Walkway which leads through the forest and alongside an old weir and water race, and finally a sedate easy stroll along the Buller River.
About five miles of hiking and three minutes of sunshine, but that's the chance one takes when one visits NZ in June. Thank goodness for rain suits.
Tomorrow we leave Murchison and head to Hokitika for two nights, where we'll do a bit more hiking if we're able to still move in the morning.
So, here I sit in the cold back bedroom of our Murchison cottage, laptop perched on top of a suitcase on top of a bed, me uncomfortably straddling the end of the bed because there's no place for my legs to go as I balance my tush on a small luggage stand and lean awkwardly over the suitcase....the drapes are open revealing moody dark skies and the magic little white box on the accommodation owner's porch that gives me Internet access. This is the only position in the entire cottage that will work and it's about as unergonomic as one can get, so I'll keep this short.
Today was another day of walking in the rain. First the 4.7 km Lyell Walkway, which leads through a former gold mining town, next the Six Mile Matakitaki Walkway which leads through the forest and alongside an old weir and water race, and finally a sedate easy stroll along the Buller River.
About five miles of hiking and three minutes of sunshine, but that's the chance one takes when one visits NZ in June. Thank goodness for rain suits.
Tomorrow we leave Murchison and head to Hokitika for two nights, where we'll do a bit more hiking if we're able to still move in the morning.
Jun 8th, 2012, 02:27 AM
#13
It certainly was a wild and windy day in Nelson Melnq, started off quite warm and calm and then came the wind, the rain and the cold temperatures.
I am amazed that you can get any internet coverage at all in Murchison, cell phone coverage is virtually non-existent.
Hope the weather improves for the rest of your stay. What an amazing sight those young seal pups must have been. Looking forward to the rest of your trip report.
I am amazed that you can get any internet coverage at all in Murchison, cell phone coverage is virtually non-existent.
Hope the weather improves for the rest of your stay. What an amazing sight those young seal pups must have been. Looking forward to the rest of your trip report.
Jun 8th, 2012, 02:49 AM
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Just love watching the seals around the Kaikoura area. We always stop at Ohau and spend time watching the seals frolicking in the water. If we have time we go right through Kaikoura to the seals out at the point. Here the seals are very close. The last time we were there we were able to walk past several rather large seals who appeared to be sleeping. They are intriguing animals.
Safe travels around the SI, Melnq8. I hope the weather will pick up there as it has in Wellington. Out of the wind it has been a very pleasant day today. I swear the playground had twice the usual number of children playing soccer at lunchtime today - the children were so pleased to get outside!
Safe travels around the SI, Melnq8. I hope the weather will pick up there as it has in Wellington. Out of the wind it has been a very pleasant day today. I swear the playground had twice the usual number of children playing soccer at lunchtime today - the children were so pleased to get outside!
Jun 9th, 2012, 11:54 PM
#15
Left Murchison in the rain yesterday and headed south to Hokitika. Never doing things the easy way, we took the slightly longer route towards Westport, as I recalled it being a pretty drive. The sun made an appearance just long enough to get some nice photos at Berlins, then it was back to rain...then sun...then rain again...a never ending cycle here on the SI.
The sun appeared again as we approached Punakaiki, where we stopped for coffee and a wander through the walkways of the Pancake Rocks...just us, no one else around.
Got some good photos of a couple of fearless Weka, probably used to being fed by the tourists. I cringe everytime I see someone feeding the wildlife, it does so much more harm than good.
Stopped at an old favorite in Greymouth for lunch - Bonzai Pizzeria, Bill driving there as if he'd just been (it's been several years since we were last there).
We then made a late afternoon detour to Lake Brunner, me remembering it being pretty and wanting to explore a track or two, which we did, although it was getting rather late in the day.
Finally arrived in Hoki around 6:30 pm.
Today looked promising with some actual sunshine, but it was a distant memory by noon. We had a lovely breakfast and even better dinner at Cafe de Paris. Wandered around Lake Kaniere and out to Hoki Gorge...walked a couple of short tracks then poked around the shops in town for a bit, bought a piece of jade as a keepsake...in the rain of course.
Tomorrow it's off to Central Otago...Pinot Noir country.
The sun appeared again as we approached Punakaiki, where we stopped for coffee and a wander through the walkways of the Pancake Rocks...just us, no one else around.
Got some good photos of a couple of fearless Weka, probably used to being fed by the tourists. I cringe everytime I see someone feeding the wildlife, it does so much more harm than good.
Stopped at an old favorite in Greymouth for lunch - Bonzai Pizzeria, Bill driving there as if he'd just been (it's been several years since we were last there).
We then made a late afternoon detour to Lake Brunner, me remembering it being pretty and wanting to explore a track or two, which we did, although it was getting rather late in the day.
Finally arrived in Hoki around 6:30 pm.
Today looked promising with some actual sunshine, but it was a distant memory by noon. We had a lovely breakfast and even better dinner at Cafe de Paris. Wandered around Lake Kaniere and out to Hoki Gorge...walked a couple of short tracks then poked around the shops in town for a bit, bought a piece of jade as a keepsake...in the rain of course.
Tomorrow it's off to Central Otago...Pinot Noir country.
Jun 10th, 2012, 08:53 AM
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Melnq8, we're following your trip, enjoying your day by day postings. Having been in the SI a few months ago, albeit in warmer weather, makes it all the more interesting. Surely wish the weather would pick up for you! But you seem to be making the most of it. Keep the reports coming. We'll keep up with you guys.
Hope the sun comes out for you today!
Jun 12th, 2012, 12:15 AM
#19
Your good thoughts must have worked sassy_cat, we had a beautiful (but cold) day in Cromwell today, which we spent visiting wineries and indulging in way too much Pinot Noir and...wait for it...Riesling, which we found dry, crisp and right up our alley. Lovely day all around...nice lunch at Mt Difficulty, fab wines, warming dinner at a local pub, wonderful accommodation. No complaints here.
Meanwhile, we heard there was a fierce storm in Perth yesteray...sure hope our house is still standing.
Heading to North Catlins tomorrow and probably won't have Internet access for a few days.
Meanwhile, we heard there was a fierce storm in Perth yesteray...sure hope our house is still standing.
Heading to North Catlins tomorrow and probably won't have Internet access for a few days.
Jun 12th, 2012, 02:06 AM
#20
Melnq a co-worker's son and DIL live in Mandurah, have two and half week old twins, their power was out for 22 hours but back now. They moved to Perth as they house was destroyed in the Christchurch earthquake.
I think rain in NZ is probably better than a tornado in Perth!!!
I think rain in NZ is probably better than a tornado in Perth!!!
