New Zealand Itinerary - Looking for suggestions on 12-13 days on the Ground
Mar 5th, 2017, 05:55 PM
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Yes, two nights in Mt. Cook would give you more time to enjoy it, relax, and will improve your chances of having at least one good day there. If you enjoy stargazing, it'll also double your chances of having a clear night, as this is part of an International Dark Sky Reserve.
I would advise leaving at the very least by midday from CC to Mt. Cook. You'll want to stop at Lake Tekapo to see the lake, dog statue, Church of the Good Shepherd, stretch your legs, use the facilities if necessary, maybe drive up to Mt. John Observatory (fabulous 360-degree view of the Southern Alps, lake and more). See:
http://www.earthandsky.co.nz/
This area is known as the Mackenzie Region. It's also known for its braided rivers, habitat for some of NZ's rarest birds (black stilt, black billed gulls, and black-fronted terns). NZ was only settled by humans in 1250–1300 AD. Before this, it was a land of birds, small reptiles, and a few bats (NZ's extant birds are the ultimate survivors).
You'll want to stop at the Lake Pukaki Visitor Center lookout, right before the turnoff for the road into Mt. Cook (SH80). Good views. There's an outpost for Aoraki Salmon and toilets here (otherwise, it'll be at least 45 minutes before you'll reach Mt. Cook village, barring any stops.) Lakes Pukaki, Tekapo and Ohau are a distinctive milky blue due to the fine mineral sediment deposited from the glaciers (known as glacial flour).
The road into Mt. Cook is one of my favorite short drives, highly photogenic. It just gets better and better the farther you go on it. You'll want to stop at Peter's Lookout, and probably other points as well. This view is from Peter's Lookout (not my photo):
http://cdn.c.photoshelter.com/img-ge...6ME/s/700/500/
So you can see how this drive can take longer than indicated on AA Drive Distance calculator.
More about Mt. Cook. The village is at a mere 760 metres (2,500 ft.) elevation. 29 mountains in the area rise above 3,000 metres (approx 10,000 ft.), with Aoraki/Mount Cook being the highest at 3,724 metres (12,217 ft.). So the valley's like a bowl whose sides are high glaciated mountains. Kiwi Sir Edmund Hillary practiced for his historic Mt. Everest climb on these relatively small peaks. The Ngāi Tahu (or Kāi Tahu), the South Island's principal Maori iwi (tribe), view Aoraki as the most sacred of their ancestors. Aoraki's apex is often engulfed by clouds, but lovely when, and if, its cap of clouds clears.
The West Coast glacier area is different. The glaciers terminate in temperate rainforest. Lakes, waterfalls, beaches and wetlands are all nearby. This is a greener, lusher environment than Mt. Cook village.
Melnq8 can advise you about taking the longer, more scenic, route through Rakaia Gorge from CC to Lake Tekapo (as opposed to the faster route). It's been too long since we've done this. As we live in Dunedin, we approach Mt. Cook from the south.
Yes, Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound are different. I've done the overnight cruise on Milford Sound twice, the overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound once. So I can't compare my experiences to the day cruises. I thought the overnight cruise quite memorable because you dock overnight in the middle of one of the most beautiful places in the world. It's quiet and serene. If the night is clear, you can go up to the top deck to look at the stars, there is no light pollution (except from the boat itself, but they turned off the top decks lights for me). Earlier in the evening, you're given the option to kayak in the fiord or take a zodiac boat ride. You can even go for a swim, though it's cold so you wouldn't last long. Bottlenose dolphins are commonly seen. These are among the southernmost habitats for this species.
On our first visit to Milford Sound, we took the coach from Q'town, overnight cruise and then arranged to take the scenic flight back. Unfortunately, our scenic flight was cancelled due to weather. Second time, we drove from Te Anau to Milford Sound, another classic NZ drive.
Doubtful Sound is three times longer than Milford Sound, and its sea surface area 10 times larger. It branches off into three arms and contains islands, some covered with fur seals (the Nee Islets). The mouth of Doubtful Sound, like the fiord itself, is more expansive; the opening to the ocean was rough and wild on my trip, but wonderful, too. During the trip, you'll sail into one of its arms, during which the boat will turn off its motor so you can observe the "sound of silence."I wrote a long report of my trip to Doubtful Sound, but my old computer died, taking my report with it.
I actually prefer Milford Sound because it's smaller and therefore the rock walls seem to tower around you. You'll cruise right up to waterfalls. The views of Mitre Peak are classic (not my photo):
http://www.tourismexportcouncil.org....Mitre-Peak.jpg
Doubtful Sound is amazing as well, but more open and spread out; it feels vast. The cruise across Lake Manapouri is gorgeous as well, but the bus trip felt overly confining. I was in the back, where it was stuffy and I felt a little nauseated. Plus, some sandflies had made it onto the bus, and were trying to snack on me. Glad I did it, but it was a lot of trouble for an overnight cruise. Just my opinion. I met a fellow from Q'town who does the trip every year!
I would advise leaving at the very least by midday from CC to Mt. Cook. You'll want to stop at Lake Tekapo to see the lake, dog statue, Church of the Good Shepherd, stretch your legs, use the facilities if necessary, maybe drive up to Mt. John Observatory (fabulous 360-degree view of the Southern Alps, lake and more). See:
http://www.earthandsky.co.nz/
This area is known as the Mackenzie Region. It's also known for its braided rivers, habitat for some of NZ's rarest birds (black stilt, black billed gulls, and black-fronted terns). NZ was only settled by humans in 1250–1300 AD. Before this, it was a land of birds, small reptiles, and a few bats (NZ's extant birds are the ultimate survivors).
You'll want to stop at the Lake Pukaki Visitor Center lookout, right before the turnoff for the road into Mt. Cook (SH80). Good views. There's an outpost for Aoraki Salmon and toilets here (otherwise, it'll be at least 45 minutes before you'll reach Mt. Cook village, barring any stops.) Lakes Pukaki, Tekapo and Ohau are a distinctive milky blue due to the fine mineral sediment deposited from the glaciers (known as glacial flour).
The road into Mt. Cook is one of my favorite short drives, highly photogenic. It just gets better and better the farther you go on it. You'll want to stop at Peter's Lookout, and probably other points as well. This view is from Peter's Lookout (not my photo):
http://cdn.c.photoshelter.com/img-ge...6ME/s/700/500/
So you can see how this drive can take longer than indicated on AA Drive Distance calculator.
More about Mt. Cook. The village is at a mere 760 metres (2,500 ft.) elevation. 29 mountains in the area rise above 3,000 metres (approx 10,000 ft.), with Aoraki/Mount Cook being the highest at 3,724 metres (12,217 ft.). So the valley's like a bowl whose sides are high glaciated mountains. Kiwi Sir Edmund Hillary practiced for his historic Mt. Everest climb on these relatively small peaks. The Ngāi Tahu (or Kāi Tahu), the South Island's principal Maori iwi (tribe), view Aoraki as the most sacred of their ancestors. Aoraki's apex is often engulfed by clouds, but lovely when, and if, its cap of clouds clears.
The West Coast glacier area is different. The glaciers terminate in temperate rainforest. Lakes, waterfalls, beaches and wetlands are all nearby. This is a greener, lusher environment than Mt. Cook village.
Melnq8 can advise you about taking the longer, more scenic, route through Rakaia Gorge from CC to Lake Tekapo (as opposed to the faster route). It's been too long since we've done this. As we live in Dunedin, we approach Mt. Cook from the south.
Yes, Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound are different. I've done the overnight cruise on Milford Sound twice, the overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound once. So I can't compare my experiences to the day cruises. I thought the overnight cruise quite memorable because you dock overnight in the middle of one of the most beautiful places in the world. It's quiet and serene. If the night is clear, you can go up to the top deck to look at the stars, there is no light pollution (except from the boat itself, but they turned off the top decks lights for me). Earlier in the evening, you're given the option to kayak in the fiord or take a zodiac boat ride. You can even go for a swim, though it's cold so you wouldn't last long. Bottlenose dolphins are commonly seen. These are among the southernmost habitats for this species.
On our first visit to Milford Sound, we took the coach from Q'town, overnight cruise and then arranged to take the scenic flight back. Unfortunately, our scenic flight was cancelled due to weather. Second time, we drove from Te Anau to Milford Sound, another classic NZ drive.
Doubtful Sound is three times longer than Milford Sound, and its sea surface area 10 times larger. It branches off into three arms and contains islands, some covered with fur seals (the Nee Islets). The mouth of Doubtful Sound, like the fiord itself, is more expansive; the opening to the ocean was rough and wild on my trip, but wonderful, too. During the trip, you'll sail into one of its arms, during which the boat will turn off its motor so you can observe the "sound of silence."I wrote a long report of my trip to Doubtful Sound, but my old computer died, taking my report with it.
I actually prefer Milford Sound because it's smaller and therefore the rock walls seem to tower around you. You'll cruise right up to waterfalls. The views of Mitre Peak are classic (not my photo):
http://www.tourismexportcouncil.org....Mitre-Peak.jpg
Doubtful Sound is amazing as well, but more open and spread out; it feels vast. The cruise across Lake Manapouri is gorgeous as well, but the bus trip felt overly confining. I was in the back, where it was stuffy and I felt a little nauseated. Plus, some sandflies had made it onto the bus, and were trying to snack on me. Glad I did it, but it was a lot of trouble for an overnight cruise. Just my opinion. I met a fellow from Q'town who does the trip every year!
Mar 5th, 2017, 06:10 PM
#42
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Milford Road: Tips for Drivers, make sure you click on the links at the bottom of the page as well:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-rec...s-for-drivers/
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-rec...s-for-drivers/
Mar 6th, 2017, 01:25 PM
#43
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Thanks Diamantina for the helpful links. I am going to add a day to Mt. Cook so our total time on the ground will be 14 days. Haven't decided about Doubtful Sound, but there is plenty of time to do that. I think we will also go a week earlier to avoid some of the Chinese New Year. We will book our international flights as soon as it is allowed (shortly) to assure we can get upgrades on the loooong legs of the trip from the east coast USA. Lodging looks quite reasonable and availability is wide open for our perspective dates right now.
Mar 6th, 2017, 04:23 PM
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Good ideas, Craig. I agree you'll probably be better off coming a week earlier, yet still missing the national holiday, Waitangi Day, on Tuesday February 6. Yes, no need to decide about Doubtful Sound now.
It makes sense to plan early, if you can, especially when traveling at such a busy time of year. Back in December, I started perusing flights and accommodation for my own late August-early September trip to Alaska, but didn't follow through. I'll have to put it off for another year now. And just last night, I priced out hotel accommodation at the end of June for Helsinki (conference), but the city's already nearly fully booked. I'm sure, if we go, we'll find something, but I didn't expect that it would be so popular. The only other time I've been there was in spring, and it was empty. You're smart to do your research now. It'll also make things easier if you need to make last-minute changes as you'll have a good idea of your options.
It makes sense to plan early, if you can, especially when traveling at such a busy time of year. Back in December, I started perusing flights and accommodation for my own late August-early September trip to Alaska, but didn't follow through. I'll have to put it off for another year now. And just last night, I priced out hotel accommodation at the end of June for Helsinki (conference), but the city's already nearly fully booked. I'm sure, if we go, we'll find something, but I didn't expect that it would be so popular. The only other time I've been there was in spring, and it was empty. You're smart to do your research now. It'll also make things easier if you need to make last-minute changes as you'll have a good idea of your options.
Mar 8th, 2017, 03:20 AM
#45
I concur w Diamantina. I love Dunedin, You should mention Mazagran as an attraction. SHAME about the Cadbury factory!
St. Clair was often my first night since it was on the way in from the Catlins.
St. Clair was often my first night since it was on the way in from the Catlins.
Mar 8th, 2017, 02:12 PM
#46
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mlgb, it's nice to hear you enjoy Dunedin. It's fantastic when sunny and warmish, like today. I've never been to Mazagran, but Dunedin's cafe culture seems almost a vibrant as Wellington's, with new espresso bars popping up all the time. I had to give up coffee years ago.
It IS a shame about the Cadbury Factory, it's been a part of Dunedinites lives' for so long. A couple of days ago, I got into a conversation with a bus driver. I'd guess she was in her 50s. She told me she worked in the Cadbury Factory when younger, and that her mother and brother had worked there, too. Actor Sam Neill, who lives in Central Otago, has called for a boycott of Cadbury products. The closure will deeply hurt this small city.
It IS a shame about the Cadbury Factory, it's been a part of Dunedinites lives' for so long. A couple of days ago, I got into a conversation with a bus driver. I'd guess she was in her 50s. She told me she worked in the Cadbury Factory when younger, and that her mother and brother had worked there, too. Actor Sam Neill, who lives in Central Otago, has called for a boycott of Cadbury products. The closure will deeply hurt this small city.
Mar 8th, 2017, 02:24 PM
#47
Diamantina -
Didn't Cadbury close years ago and then re-open? We visited a very long time ago, then heard about the closure shortly thereafter.
Maybe it was for a remodel or something? I can't remember the details.
Didn't Cadbury close years ago and then re-open? We visited a very long time ago, then heard about the closure shortly thereafter.
Maybe it was for a remodel or something? I can't remember the details.
Mar 8th, 2017, 05:36 PM
#48
You can enjoy Mazagran just walking by it! Isn't the old Rialto theater around the corner?
A good time to visit Dunedin is when the rhododendrons bloom, October I think. There used to be a garden festival around that time but I don't know if it still happens.
A good time to visit Dunedin is when the rhododendrons bloom, October I think. There used to be a garden festival around that time but I don't know if it still happens.
Mar 8th, 2017, 11:28 PM
#49
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mlgb, sadly, the Rhododendron Festival hasn't been held for a few years. I tried to discover why it's no longer held, but no one knew. The annual event attracted around 3,000 admirers. The Botanic Garden still holds an annual rhododendron sale at that time, and the International Rhododendron Conference was held here in October, 2014. Experts say Dunedin is the world's third best place to grow rhododendrons because of our "special" climate. I'm a fan of the "world-renowned" nearly 10-acre Rhododendron Dell myself, especially the middle section, with the terraced boardwalk along a stream. It's dark with over-hanging trees, but, in season, the forest floor is laden with magenta rhododendron petals. It's almost a magical setting.
From August through October, kowhai, kaka beak, camellias, daffodils, magnolias, rhododendrons, cherry blossoms, and many other blooms provide an explosion of color. It IS a nice time.
I'll have a close look at Mazagran next time I visit the Rialto. There's another popular espresso bar a couple of doors down from the Rialto, Dog with Two Tails.
From August through October, kowhai, kaka beak, camellias, daffodils, magnolias, rhododendrons, cherry blossoms, and many other blooms provide an explosion of color. It IS a nice time.
I'll have a close look at Mazagran next time I visit the Rialto. There's another popular espresso bar a couple of doors down from the Rialto, Dog with Two Tails.
Mar 9th, 2017, 11:36 PM
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Three nights in Invercargill, Melnq8. I'm impressed. You really do love the South Island. I spent two nights there last winter to see some kakapo chicks, as they have a kakapo chick rearing facility. I'd seen Sirocco the kakapo before, but this was my first time seeing chicks (beyond adorable). Last year, 33 kakapo chicks fledged, boosting the overall population by 25 percent. There are fewer than 160 kakapo left.
Invercargill's Southland Museum and Art Gallery is well-worth seeing if passing through, and Queens Garden is next door. Burt Munro's World's Fastest Indian at E Hayes Hardware and Bill Richardson's Transport World are other attractions. I'd agree, it's not a recommendation for first timers, unless they're interested in wildlife and planning on visiting Stewart Island or if doing the Southern Scenic Route. Invercargill also has some beautiful heritage buildings that need some TLC. It's very flat, though.
mlgb, Craig asked about Dunedin and mentioned liking botanic gardens, so we didn't go off topic.
Invercargill's Southland Museum and Art Gallery is well-worth seeing if passing through, and Queens Garden is next door. Burt Munro's World's Fastest Indian at E Hayes Hardware and Bill Richardson's Transport World are other attractions. I'd agree, it's not a recommendation for first timers, unless they're interested in wildlife and planning on visiting Stewart Island or if doing the Southern Scenic Route. Invercargill also has some beautiful heritage buildings that need some TLC. It's very flat, though.
mlgb, Craig asked about Dunedin and mentioned liking botanic gardens, so we didn't go off topic.
Mar 10th, 2017, 05:30 AM
#54
Diamantina -
I just looked through my travel notes - that three night stay in Invercargill was way back in 2001 - a few years before I started writing trip reports, so I don't have many details.
I seem to remember walking through a beautiful park, eating Indian food, going to the library to send e-mail and meeting a man at an Invercargill restaurant whose brother was a pilot - he had all sorts of interesting stories about flying an Airbus. Oh yeah, and plenty of flatness.
We've driven through Invercargill many times since and spent a night there prior to our trip to Stewart Island a few years back, but other than stopping for petrol and food, it't not a place we spend much time in anymore.
I just looked through my travel notes - that three night stay in Invercargill was way back in 2001 - a few years before I started writing trip reports, so I don't have many details.
I seem to remember walking through a beautiful park, eating Indian food, going to the library to send e-mail and meeting a man at an Invercargill restaurant whose brother was a pilot - he had all sorts of interesting stories about flying an Airbus. Oh yeah, and plenty of flatness.
We've driven through Invercargill many times since and spent a night there prior to our trip to Stewart Island a few years back, but other than stopping for petrol and food, it't not a place we spend much time in anymore.
Mar 12th, 2017, 12:49 AM
#55
Kakapos!
I loved the museum ...Henry!
Don't remember the exact timing of my last visit, maybe 2001 or 2002.. the downtown still had a very traditional feel as well as not being invaded by too many chain stores. As I recall there were some neat antique/junk stores and old school seafood restaurants and fishmongers which were good places to try whitebait or paua patties if you hadn't already. The Knights of NZ HQ had a factory store.(I found a babyvlamb jacket that was a stretch to buy even with the strong USD at the time but I still wear it). It was advertised in one of the tourist booklets.
For golfers there is Otatara.
I think I also used the computers at the library..no one had wifi and cellphones then.
I loved the museum ...Henry!
Don't remember the exact timing of my last visit, maybe 2001 or 2002.. the downtown still had a very traditional feel as well as not being invaded by too many chain stores. As I recall there were some neat antique/junk stores and old school seafood restaurants and fishmongers which were good places to try whitebait or paua patties if you hadn't already. The Knights of NZ HQ had a factory store.(I found a babyvlamb jacket that was a stretch to buy even with the strong USD at the time but I still wear it). It was advertised in one of the tourist booklets.
For golfers there is Otatara.
I think I also used the computers at the library..no one had wifi and cellphones then.
Mar 12th, 2017, 07:02 AM
#57
Mar 12th, 2017, 03:40 PM
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Seems Invercargill is attractive and convenient afterall!
Melnq8, Queens Park is lovely (though flat) and has a great aviary. It has no kākāpō, which live on offshore predator-free islands, mainly Whenua Hou (Codfish Island off Stewart Island), Anchor Island (in Dusky Sound) and Hauturu o Toi (Little Barrier Island in Hauraki Gulf). Sirocco, NZ's most famous bird, bonded with humans, so I believe he lives alone in the wild on Maud Island, but occasionally visits ecosanctuaries, like Zealandia, Orokonui, Maungatautari, or Ulva Island to raise money for kākāpō conservation.
Last year was the most successful breeding season for kākāpō since recovery efforts began, but highest-risk chicks were hand-raised at a Dept. of Conservation facility in Invercargill, until they could be returned to the wild. The public was invited to view these kākāpō chicks.
http://www.stuff.co.nz/southland-tim...-to-the-public
The Southland Museum has long-term plans of building a permanent kākāpō chick-rearing facility for these critically endangered birds that only breed in years when there will be enough rimu fruit for the growing chicks. More about kākāpō:
http://www.birdlife.org/pacific/news...%C5%8D-kingdom
http://kakaporecovery.org.nz/
I'll try not to steer this thread in a birdie direction in the future!
Melnq8, Queens Park is lovely (though flat) and has a great aviary. It has no kākāpō, which live on offshore predator-free islands, mainly Whenua Hou (Codfish Island off Stewart Island), Anchor Island (in Dusky Sound) and Hauturu o Toi (Little Barrier Island in Hauraki Gulf). Sirocco, NZ's most famous bird, bonded with humans, so I believe he lives alone in the wild on Maud Island, but occasionally visits ecosanctuaries, like Zealandia, Orokonui, Maungatautari, or Ulva Island to raise money for kākāpō conservation.
Last year was the most successful breeding season for kākāpō since recovery efforts began, but highest-risk chicks were hand-raised at a Dept. of Conservation facility in Invercargill, until they could be returned to the wild. The public was invited to view these kākāpō chicks.
http://www.stuff.co.nz/southland-tim...-to-the-public
The Southland Museum has long-term plans of building a permanent kākāpō chick-rearing facility for these critically endangered birds that only breed in years when there will be enough rimu fruit for the growing chicks. More about kākāpō:
http://www.birdlife.org/pacific/news...%C5%8D-kingdom
http://kakaporecovery.org.nz/
I'll try not to steer this thread in a birdie direction in the future!
Mar 12th, 2017, 03:44 PM
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Not to take the thread off topic but you piqued my interest with kakapo. I saw my one and only at the Auckland Zoo when I was there. Looks like I need to include Invercargill on my itinerary next time I'm down under.
