Marlborough Sound vs. Fiordland
 

In planning my two-week trip to the South Island, I have to decide between the North and Fiordland -- I can't do them both. I have friends who tell me that the North with Abel Tasman park and the beautiful beaches are not to be missed. Others tell me that I simply can't leave NZ without seeing the Milford Sound. Either way, my plan includes Christchurch, Arthur's Pass, Hokitika, Franz Josef, and Wanaka.

Given that I need to make a choice between the extreme North and South, what advise would you NZ experts give me?

Doubtful sound overnight...

For me, this would be a no-brainer; given the choice, I would pick the soaring peaks, precipitous cliffs, and spectacular waterfalls in the rugged terrain of Fiordland, over the much gentler rolling hills and beaches of Abel Tasman.

If you are more of a beach and water person, then you should go north. If you are more of a mountain scenery person, then you should go south.

Of course, time of year would play a roll as well. During the winter, Fiordland may be overcast and dripping rain the whole time you are there, while there is a much better chance of sunny weather in Abel Tasman.

Thanks Alf -- that helps put things in perspective. Sounds like Fiordland is the more unusual of the two destinations, given that I've seen beautiful beaches on other travels.

John- curious what you mean when you say Doubtful Sound overnight -- are you talking about a cruise or just spending the night in Te Anau?

He's recommending that you take an overnight boat tour on Doubtful Sound. I would too - Doubtful is much less accessible, compared to Milford Sound, and is consequently much less crowded. After sunset, there might not be another boat in sight. In the still morning, you can go kayaking before breakfast. Unforgettable!

Thanks for the idea. Do you have any recommendations of tour operators for overnight tours to Doubtful Sound? Also, how far of a drive is the port from Te Anau?

All tours depart from the Pearl Harbor marina, on Lake Manapouri, which is a half-hour from Te Anau. If you have your own vehicle, you can park it along the road near Pearl Harbor. Most tours will also pick you up in Te Anau.

We went with Fiordland Cruises (www.doubtfulsound.com), which has one of the smaller boats on the sound. Another great choice would be Deep Cove Charters (www.doubtful-sound.com/), which I think only takes 6 people per boat. You can also go with Real Journeys (www.realjourneys.co.nz), which has a much larger, but more modern and well-appointed boat.

You will see lots of companies offering overnight Doubtful Sound tours, but most of them are re-selling one of the above (usually Real Journeys).