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Just back from OZ and NZ - Here's my two cents worth.

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Just back from OZ and NZ - Here's my two cents worth.

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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 05:59 AM
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Just back from OZ and NZ - Here's my two cents worth.

Just back from a couple of weeks in OZ and NZ. Primary purpose of the trip was to visit our daughter, who is at school in Gold Coast. A few observations that may help follow travelers….

We did extensive flying within the countries. It’s really inexpensive compared to flying within the U.S for the same distances IF you take advantage of the specials. We did Sydney – Melbourne; Melbourne – Gold Coast; Brisbane – Carines, and Carines to Brisbane for under $400 US. Of the two domestic discount carriers, Virgin Blue is the better carrier. Check the Happy Hr specials each day at noon AU time or book a month out and there are enough $59 to $89AU fares to most destinations. We arrived at the airports about 45 minutes ahead of departure and using their automated check-in, had seats at the front of the plane and were at the gate in plenty of time. Jetstar, on the other hand, was slow to check in and unassigned seating means arriving early or accept the fact you’ve a middle seat.

As to driving – and we did about 2,000 km total. Driving on the “other side” wasn’t really an issue. Took maybe an hour to get comfortable. Overall, the roads are good, although signage in AU isn’t always the best. I will say, the Gold Coast was a total pain, but we were there on Indy Weekend, roads were blocked off and M-1, the freeway, is so far from the coast, it’s not really a time-saver. We used Hertz, knowing that we’d get upgrades, passed on the insurance (extra and expensive) and didn’t pay more than AU$49 or NZ$69 for Maxima’s or Ford Falcons.

Hotels: Since most of our nights were on “miles” we couldn’t be too picky. I strongly recommend the Sydney Harbour Marriott. Great location a block from Circular Quay, and five minutes walk to the Opera House and Rocks. We’d arrived at 8:30 am from LA and were given access to the arrivals lounge for showers, pressing up clothes, and breakfast. They handled all luggage and we were off to see Sydney by 9:30. If all Marriotts were as good as this one (sigh). If you’re on miles, you can upgrade to a room 25 floors or higher, overlooking the Opera House for AU$80. In Melbourne, we were at the Hilton. Less said, the better. In Gold Coast, the Hyatt Sanctuary Cove. Great resort unless you want to be near Surfers. It’s in the middle of nowhere. But, the rooms, with the polished hardwood floors, huge baths, and the grounds – it’s a nice destination resort. Otherwise, be warned, it’s a 30 minute drive to Surfers, and at night, you can get lost. Another on my recommended list is the Sheraton Mirage in Port Douglas. Great resort – perfect for families with kids. Right on 4 mile beach. Poolside bar will put a dent in your wallet. A light lunch and one round of drinks cost AU$144. Brisbane Hilton, typical business hotel, but one of the nicer Hiltons. In New Zealand, we stayed at the Hyatt Regency Auckland, which is in the midst of needed renovation and at Brown’s in Queenstown. Brown’s was the only hotel we paid for (NZ$270 per night w/breakfast) and it was worth it. Alex and Nigel run a great B&B. Anything you want is pretty much a simple request away.

Dinning. We went to OZ and NZ planning to do mostly informal dining and didn’t have any problem – everyone dresses so informally anyway. A couple of mentions: Salsa’s Bar and Grill in Port Douglas. Serious food in a very informal atmosphere. The black bean fried soft shelled mud crab was unbelievable. In Queenstone, Solara was tops. Snagged a table across from the fireplace – great French – appetizer, main, desert and decent wine for two and just at NZ$100, or about twice the price for a pizza in the Rocks in Sydney. A third mention – not at the top, but trying hard, is the Bar at the Opera House. I was a little wary, I guess, due to the connection with the Opera House, but, we had a great meal one night and the view can’t be beat. Servers have a bit of attitude, but that’s part of the trendy intent of the place.

Cool stuff to do:

Best on the cheap was the 2 1/2 hour Sydney Ferries harbor cruise. Not the commercial companies, but no complaints with the narration. We did this the first day, about four hours after landing. It was a good introduction to Sydney.

Best splurge. We hooked with Greg at Daintree Air, and flew out to Lizard for the day. AU$2,000 for the four of us. Greg is cutting back the trips to Lizard due to demand for his charter services. Too bad, because it was great day on an Island that is very different from many in the GBR.

Most fun. Shotover jet boat in Queentown. As one who white water rafts, this was better than most of those trips. Just a blast. Something about doing 360’s in a gorge that is about wife enough for the boat – cool!

Most interesting bar, you ask. Minus 5 in Queenstown. All ice. Chairs, glasses, the walls – all ice. $25 to freeze your ass off and knock back the Absolute drink of your choice. It’s silly but fun.

Tourist trap, but fun. Lone Pine Koala Reserve in Brisbane. There are reserves and sanctuaries everywhere in Australia, but this one is special. Serious one on one time with ‘roo’s and yes, that must have photo with the Koala.

Other observations:

Yes, you can drive the Great Ocean Road in one-day. We flew in from Sydney and drove the road. No traffic to speak of… Stopped four or five times along the way. Definitely, if you can do it over two days, you’ll be much happier at the end.

And, yes you can drive to Rotorua and Waikato Caves in one day. Figure, Auckland to Rotorua in 3 hrs, another two to Waikato, then 2 hours, maybe a bit more, back to Auckland. The countryside makes the time in your car very worthwhile. We loved the NZ countryside.

Surfer’s Paradise. Rowdy. Never had seen two strippers in G strings looking down at some guy, out cold, in a pool of blood, on the street before. My daughter, who is in school in Robina, called it a quiet night as the mobile “puke” stations hadn’t been set up yet.


Milford Sound in NZ. We’d been scheduled to bus out and fly back, but the weather kept us grounded. If you’re planning to bus out and back, don’t – drive it. It’s not difficult, even the tunnel is lighted, and the bus don’t stop nearly enough. If it’s raining, it’s a different world – hundreds of waterfalls that come and go within a few hours. We used Real Journeys, which is one of the best, but, they were on a schedule and thus, some of the better sights were passed by.

Oh, and take lots of money. Australia is expensive (but worth it). The cost of food will have you dieting in no-time. Frankly, Sydney ranks up with Tokyo as the most expensive cities I’ve traveled. But, somehow, sitting at the Opera Bar looking across at the Bridge makes it all worth it. New Zealand isn’t nearly as expensive for food, but gas is running about $1.50 litre, which isn’t cheap, that’s for sure.

Finally, Queenstown – why, oh, why must it be so far way? We loved every minute there. I couldn’t get enough, so our daughter is going over to finish off what we couldn’t. Sitting with the other guests at Brown over breakfast and asking “So what did you do yesterday?” and hearing the answers “Oh, I jumped out of plane at 15,000 ft!”…”Heli-hiking on Franz Glacier”….it’s just not your everyday vacation place. With an ice cold Monteiths in hand, sitting in the sun at the Loaded Hog and look out across the water, you can’t really ask for a better place to forget about work, the credit card bills that are edging skyward with every day on the road and realize, you’re someplace special and having the time of your life.
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 08:35 AM
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Wherenow-
Thank you SO much for posting a great trip report! Of the places you visited, we will be going to Sydney, Milford (self-drive) and Queenstown. We are staying at Brown's in Queenstown too. I especially appreciated your comments on restaurants and bars. We will be visiting Minus 5 now. I am glad you had a great time!
Liz
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 11:55 AM
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All I can say on the point about Australia being expensive for food is that people either do not take in what is suggested to them or they ignore what is suggested to them in respect to eating in Australia. If you are intent on going to formal restaurants you are going to pay for your food if on the other hand you listen to the advice that has been given time and time and time again on this forum you WILL NOT find it at all expensive to eat and I am not talking about places like KFC and the like.
If you think that $8 Australian or ( $6.20US) for a quality roast with 4 or 5 veg is expensive then I would like to know where you can get that quality in the USA for that price. The average cost in Newtown Sydney which is one of the most diverse and interesting eating places in Sydney is about $15AU for a fantastic meal. Sorry but I get P ... off when I see people who have had the opportunity to take advice and do not and then go on to tell others what is not the case.
If this particular person had eaten at Paragon Restaurant at Sanctuary Cove - seeing they stayed there. Lunch is 1/2 price and the quality of the food is fantastic. Even full price is not that expensive. If you compare the food there with restaurants around San Francisco then I am afraid that SF comes off rather badly in $$ terms. Also to say that Sanctuary Cove is in the middle of nowhere is a surprise to me and I guess to most of the other 1/2 Million people who live near there.
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 12:40 PM
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Wherenow-
Thanks again for posting. I hope that you do not feel that you need to defend your impressions of Australian food prices or your impressions of the neighborhood around your hotel.
It is unfortunate that one of the few people who do return to post trip reports was ... attacked (?) reprimanded (?) yelled at (?) ... for her thoughts.
Again, thank you for your trip report!
Liz
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 01:54 PM
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Well Tim & Liz
If you want to know anything in the future that is accurate perhaps you can do your own research because I am sick and tired of people asking for help and opinions and then either not taking them or doing the opposite and stating their findings as fact.
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 02:11 PM
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Hum... Let's be careful on the context of my original post here... I wasn't bitching about what I paid at Salsa's or the others. If I couldn't afford it, I wouldn't have done Salsa's or Rockpool.. I am saying, that Sydney, as a world class city, carries a price tag. Whatever advantage a U.S. vistor to Sydney expects from the difference in currency will pretty much vanish...

Oh, and by the way, there are some really good deals on wine to be had. On the otherhand, a six pack of beer at Safeway will break a college students bank account.

Ok, start the next round of bashing....

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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 02:14 PM
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PS: Tim&Liz Have you thought why a lot of regular helping fodorites have slowed down or stopped answering questions of late? Well your answer to mine is one of the reasons.
For a start being accurate in what you say is important - at least to some of us. Starters - Sanctuary Cove is NOT half an hour from Surfer's Paradise and even if it were I cannot see any reason anyone would want to go into Surfers Paradise in any case as its only for young "swingers" who want to get stoned. Making comments about getting around when the Indy is on is misleading because there would have about 1 Million extra people and the streets are blocked off. The M1 is most certainly a time saver and there are many access roads from it into or onto the G.C that it would only be not so if you did not bother to use a map and finally Sanctuary Cove is not in the middle of nowhere as I said before. There are 3 discount domestic air carriers and you can eat very well starting from $6Australian ($4.50US for a huge plate of fresh fish and chips. The above are facts and not a few observations.
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 02:38 PM
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Hi Wherenow,
Thanks for your JBR - I enjoyed "looking" at some familiar places through your eyes.

I'm really pleased to see your positive post regarding driving on the LHS. So many people from the US seem to be put off by the perceived difficulty of changing sides that I feel they miss out on one of the pleasures of visiting Australia & NZ - noodling along the "roads less travelled" at ones own pace.

Is your daughter at Bond Uni? If so, would be interested in your/her opinions of it.

You couldn't have picked a worse time to drive around the G.Coast than Indy week. (LOL) It's a total zoo then and you're right - a real PIA to get around. It's hard enough in a strange place with map on lap - but bang in a few of those charming orange road barriers and their lime coated defenders, and you have a Basil Fawlty script in the making!

You're right, Sanctuary Cove IS a bit out of town and it would have been easy to get a bit lost, especially with all the Indy road diversions in place. I'm on the GC for an annual conference & we usually go up to S.Cove once or twice for a meal. It was built on a reclaimed mangrove swamp by one of the "white shoe brigade" developers in the 80's (as was the Mirage at P.D. - by a more infamous one, Christopher Skase). Back then, it was relatively isolated, but the spread of development on the Gold Coast has surged around it and now it's "almost in suburbia".

Benelong has never really hit the highs one would hope for in such a sensational location, but I do think Guillaume Brahimi it pretty right now. Glad you enjoyed it, too. We've had several "pre" drinks/dinners and a couple of suppers there in the last few months and have always enjoyed it. (Although last time one of the waiters did direct a diner at the next table to the Concert Hall instead of the Opera Theatre, which could have been disastrous had one of our party not overheard & corrected him.)Went to a corporate pre-Christmas lunch there last year for 20 and it was excellent.

Next time you come, have a look for "Cheap Eats" and the "Good Food Guide" in the newsagents. Both will give you a good idea for some less expensive eating options. Also, the Sydney Morning Herald's "Good Food" supplement on Tuesdays (I think Melbourne's Age has one, too) is good for tips.





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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 02:58 PM
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Thanks for taking the trouble to post your report, Wherenow, and you certainly won't be bashed by me.

LizF, I'm sorry, but you've been way oversensitive this time. Having said that, I must admit that I was a little taken aback to discover that Sydney ranks with Tokyo for restaurant prices. This doesn't seem to jell with recent reviews in two respected US newspapers, and it certainly doesn't reflect the Sydney I know. (As an aside, Wherenow, I assume you followed local custom and tipped either nominally or not at all?)

So, a little hyperbole there, maybe, but Wherenow has made it plain that she's not a budget tourist, so it's hardly reasonable to berate her for not catching a bus to Newtown to find a cheap bowl of tom yom goong or a bag of chips, or for that matter sharing a bathroom in one of Alan's beloved pubs!

At the same time, I wouldn't want visitors who DO want to eat well for a reasonable price to be deterred by Wherenow's comments, as you can do that all over Sydney. Just stay clear of hotel (as opposed to pub) restaurants, and for safety's sake the Rocks and Darling Harbour.

I've only eaten at Rockpool once, quite a few years ago now, and thought it over-rated. Three of our party of four actively disliked their dishes, and the waitress had a bad attitude - hopefully they were just having a bad day.

Incidentally, a while ago in an idle moment back I kicked off a thread ("Australia/ US restaurant prices" -www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=3&tid=34670022) which attempted a hands-off price comparison of two highly-rated restaurants, Marque in Sydney and Chez Panisse in San Francisco. Although the result wasn't entirely conclusive, the difference wasn't huge either way. What price Tokyo - or London?
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 04:22 PM
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Bokhara...

Yes, my daughter is at Bond. There are about thirty from her school in the SF Bay Area attending Bond and thus far, it's been a very good experience. The style of teaching is very different but she's learning and considering all of the distractions at nearby Surfers, we're happy. The school does plan a number of trips to the GBR and other excursions that test their resolve on whether to attend class or not. Matter of fact, she just called about a four day trip to NZ where they'd rent an RV. So much to do, so little time...

And, yes, GC wasn't ideal. Nonstop rain and traffic nightmares. But, when you've not seen your daughter in a couple months, who cares?



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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 04:39 PM
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Thanks Wherenow, an English friend's daughter is at Edinburgh and thinking of doing a year at Bond.
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 11:19 PM
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Hi there,

It sounds like you had a fantastic trip and I enjoyed reading your trip report.

Just wanted to point out that it is Waitomo Caves (not Waikato Caves) just in case anyone is wondering.

Sounds like you had a great time in Queenstown and yiihaa, the Shotover Jet is a great ride !!

Cheers,
Christa
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Old Oct 31st, 2005, 02:55 AM
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Hope you didn't have rain in Sydney, we seem to have had a fair bit lately...Which we needed but not good for the tourist!

I just had a visitor from the US stay with us and they reckon it is expensive here as well. Maybe that is why we don't get as many American tourists as we do European and Asian.

Always better to go to a cheaper destination for your holidays though sometimes you get what you pay for as you suggested, here it is worth it! (sometimes). Some areas are tourist rip off areas for sure. Sydney harbour is it just the out this world value of the real estate.

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Old Oct 31st, 2005, 09:45 AM
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Wherenow, thanks for your two cents worth on Aust and NZ. I'm going soon and enjoyed reading your posting.
And just cannot help but add (at the risk of being being berated) that perhaps there is another reason why regular Fodorites have dropped off - it might be the same as those of us who are new...fear of having an opinion!
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Old Oct 31st, 2005, 09:54 AM
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Two cents from an American who thinks it's cheaper to go to Oz than Europe. I've not been in Tokyo, but London is ridiculous. Ok, so I do live in the Western US, but I thought the petrol and some of the food in Switzerland, Austria and n. Italy this summer tended a little high, and that costs in Australia in '04 were comparable to the US. Americans are still whining that the dollar and euro are not an even trade, and while Oz is not a bargain, I think it's a fair value, especially in our spring/summer. Agree heartily that the in-country airfares trump the US, too.
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Old Oct 31st, 2005, 10:42 AM
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yep, the price of petrol has sky rocketed in Europe.
I live in London and earn British pounds, so I am happy whenever I travel, especially to Aust or NZ. Fantastic! No need to be on a tight budget.
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Old Oct 31st, 2005, 03:45 PM
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Hi Walterh & Oliver&harry,
I thought the prices in NY in August were roughly equivalent for similar quality restaurants to Sydney. Eg., At Eleven Madison Park, we paid USD 257 (AUD 353) for 2 (degustation) including pre-dinner cocktails, wine & tip;( exchange rate 72.85) Last week I paid AUD 350 at Becasse (Sydney)for 3 for lunch - 1 shared entree, 3 mains, cheeseplate, wine, etc. These restaurants would rate v. closely. Becasse is, I think 17/20 in the Sydney Good Food Guide and Eleven Madison similar in Zagats.

NY cabs are a lot cheaper than Sydney or Melbourne. I went from UES to LWS, got stuck in Friday night traffic, took forever and cost $15. The driver apologising all the while. Here that little jaunt would have been at the very least double.

Met friends from London in NY and they were laughing - everything was about 1/2 price for them!

Typically, I would have an apetiser (Aust. entree size) and a glass of wine & a coffee somewhere nice for lunch in NY for around $20-30, roughly what I'd expect to pay here (+- the exchange rate.)In general, I thought we do wine by-the-glass better; the NYers do 1/2 bottles much better than we. (Hence I sometimes had 1/2 bottle instead of a glass - market forces, you understand)

I didn't notice a huge difference in supermarket items, except for skin care & make-up which was quite a bit cheaper in the US. Some fruit barrow items (strawberries & figs in particular) were SO cheap at $2.50 for big punnets & wonderful quality, other things (peaches, fairly ordinary at about $8/kg ) more expensive. Or perhaps I should say, not such good value for money. Fuel here in Sydney (today) is AUD 1.23/litre. Has been up to $1.47/litre in the last few weeks.

I would think that the two cities might be fairly close in cost of living if one lived in either place for, say a year. (Assuming a like-for-like lifestyle, etc. NY is probably more expensive in terms of R/E, but I didn't have a point of comparison, so don't know.) Paid AUD 76 (including booking fee) for good seat to Stephen Petronio's "Gotham Suite" at the Sydney Dance Theatre last month. What would that cost in NY? Parked 3.5 hrs at QVB for $47. (I've just got the Amex bill so have a few handy references & remembering "for every joy a price is paid" (LOL))

Without being ridiculous, I wanted to experience as much as I could of what NY had to offer, so didn't convert everything - just noticed the "standouts" at either end of the $ scale.

I hope you'll continue to post and ask anything you think we might be able to help with. Good Travelling


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