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luv2globetrot Oct 6th, 2005 06:11 AM

Itinerary experts, please help w/ NZ plan!
 
So after spending most of the last 2 days on this website and other NZ sites, I am beginning to get an idea of what we want to do/see but are not quite sure how to fit it all in. I do still have some books on the way that I need to read through to make more specific selections, but need a rough draft to get started.
First of all, we are a 37 and a 44 year old going in Feb 2006. We will have 13 nights. We would like to concentrate on the South Island, but will be flying into and out of Auckland (had to do this because we're using airline miles to fly business class from Boston...very excited about that and figured it was worth the time getting to the SI).
We are thrilled about the scenery (fiords, lakes, mountains, volcanoes---not very into beaches), would love to see wildlife like penguins,seals,albatross,dolphins. We love day hikes but just don't think we would want to do the whole Milford Track or similar, just too much time. We want to get in some adventures like zorbing, jet boating, possibly bungy jumping (really want to bungy jump so bad but not sure if I'll be able to go thru with it:) )
We enjoy exploring small quaint towns as well as bigger cities. (The fact that some people say that Queenstown is too touristy does not deter us)
Tops on our list is Fiordland...I'm almost positive that we would like to do an overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound and also a day cruise on Milford.
The glaciers sound great, but was wondering if it is similar to an experience we had in Alaska (we took a helicopter and landed on Mendenhall glacier)
Arthur's Pass, Pancake Rocks, Mt. Cook all sound great.
As far as towns, I can't decide if going to both Christchurch and Dunedin can or should be squeezed in.
Kayaking in Abel Tasman also sounds wonderful.
When we get to Auckland, we can't decide if we should stay put after our 30-something hour journey for a day or two, or if we should book a flight that same day to CC to get all the flights over with and be on the south island right away.
We're not ruling out seeing some of the North Island (like Rotorua, which is one of the only places I think you can zorb) but can't decide if it would better to spend the whole 13 nights on the South.
Not sure what to do if we spent the first 2 nights on the North, and what would we be able to fit in in 11 nights on the South?
We are thinking about doing the camper van thing, but would want to pick it up in either Queenstown or CC. Still haven't decided if we should just rent a car. But I think to save time we would fly from either Auckland or Rotorua to CC or QT and fly back.
I know I've rambled quite a bit, but it seems like the more info we give the easier it is for all you wonderful experts to help:)
So...what do you think?
Thanks, thanks, thanks so much for any advice!!
Lisa

Jed Oct 6th, 2005 10:00 AM

If your flight comes into AKL early in the morning, it would be better to fly right away to CC or QT. Consider this, what are you going to do in AKL at 6 AM?

mlgb Oct 6th, 2005 11:11 AM

I prefer continuing straight on to the SI on the day of arrival. For me, the first day I am "out of it". Assuming you do arrive early in the AM, you will still have time to check in at your final destination, & do a bit of walking around, which helps with jet lag. It's also best to stay awake as long as you can on Day 1. You may get up very early the next morning. I like Christchurch or Queenstown as a city of arrival. In Christchurch, you can wander the Botanic Gardens if you get up very early, it's good for shopping and stocking up on food for your onward travels. It has a wonderful museum, not too large (Canterbury Museum).

My opinion is that you should spend all but your day before departure in the South Island, 13 nights really is not much.

If you must go to Rotorua, it's not a bad plan to go straight on to Rotorua the first day, especially if you can catch a one-way bus so you can doze if needed. There might be a morning bus that stops at Waitomo Caves and continues on the same day. Nice soak at the Polynesian Pools that evening. Then zorb & fly direct Rotorua to Queenstown the following day, and work your way back north to Christchurch, flying back to Auckland.

luv2globetrot Oct 6th, 2005 12:37 PM

We arrive AKL at 11:45 am. There are flights on Qantas from AKL to CC at 2,4,6 and 8pm and from AKL to QT there's really only one flight we'd be able to make at 2pm so I guess we should go to CC if we went on the first day.
And I've been trying to figure how what kind of route we'd be able to fit in...it seems there's no way to do a complete loop from CC-Nelson-Greymouth-Franz J- QT -Te Anau-Dunedin-CC in that short time...so my dilema now is which should we try:
1) CC - Nelson - Grey - FJ - QT - Te Anau (fly QT to AKL)
2) CC - Dunedin - Te Anau - QT - FJ - Grey (detour to Pancake) - Arthur's Pass - CC (fly CC to AKL)
Not that either of these 2 plans are my only options, but I'm trying to figure out if I had to leave out an area should it be CC to Nelson, or CC to Dunedin. Which has the prettiest scenery? Are you more likely to see penguins in one or the other area? Or should I skip them both and see mainly the west coast and try to get in more of the North Island????
This is sooo hard!!!! I've never felt so much pressure while planning a trip to figure out what NOT to see...what an amzing place this must be!! Can't wait!!
Thanks!
Lisa

Kotter Oct 6th, 2005 05:21 PM

Hi Lisa
My choice would be Nelson. It is absolutely beautiful around that area, specky views on the coast and some great bush walks if you are into that. From Nelson down the West Coast is spectacular. Although nice, Christchurch is just another big city, I feel there is much more exciting things to see and do outside of Christchurch. Milford Sound is something not to miss, I did the twilight cruise and it was amazing. Rotorua is quite different, not something you would see too often so it would be worth the trip if you can manage it. Remember NZ is pretty small, for example you can drive from Auckland to Wellington in less than 12 hours, but with your limited time I suppose you have to make some hard decisions. I was born in NZ and spent 26 years there so know the Nth Island pretty well. I have only been to the Sth Island twice and both times I loved it, so enjoy and relax!

mlgb Oct 6th, 2005 06:09 PM

Nelson is just another small cute town, focus on local crafts. Abel Tasman is very scenic, if you like coastal views and it's good for day hiking (you can get a launch pick up and drop off).

Christchurch is more English than England, has beautiful Botanic Gardens. has a very good small museum (Canterbury Museum). It's a good place to shop as well, for supplies, food, clothing, crafts. The weekend market at the Arts Centre is good if you can schedule around it. Dunedin is a centre for wildlife tours, especially for albatross & penguins. However, do some research on the breeding and nesting schedules, as they are more visible different times of the year.

The coast between Christchurch and Dunedin is not especially scenic. The Coast between Te Anau and Dunedin is. Another option might be to fly back from Dunedin to Auckland. I've also found some fast shuttles between Dunedin and Christchurch, and flown back to to the US from Chch, as there are often connecting flights available.

luv2globetrot Oct 9th, 2005 02:57 PM

The problem I'm having is dropping off the rental camper in a different city than I pick it up. Only certain companies seem to let you drop off without a huge fee and then even those that do, the cities are limited to CHC and Queentown (on the South Island).
So, now I'm trying to work out pickup in CHC and drop off in QT,will this be too much:
Day 1- arrive Auckland 11:45am, pick up rental car,sightseeing and night in Auckland
Day 2- drive to Rotorua -zorbing and thermal pools, spend night in Rotorua
Day 3- drop off rental car, 9am flight Rotorua to CHC (arrive 11am), pick up campervan,sightseeing CHC and spend night in CHC
Day 4- drive to Nelson area and sightsee and make way to Abel Tasman area, spend night Abel Tasman
Day 5- Abel Tasman (kayaking and/or day hikes, spend night here
Day 6- Drive down coast, see Pancake Rocks, Greymouth, spend night in Hokitika
Day 7- Drive to Fox Glacier (day hike on glacier), drive to Wanaka, night in Wanaka
Day 8- drive to Queenstown, spend day sightseeing QT, night in QT
Day 9- drive to Te Anau, sightsee then overnight cruise on Doubftful Sound,
Day 10- back to QT,bungy jump or jet boat, night in QT
Day 11- maybe get in another early am activity in QT then drive to Milford sound, day cruise Milford Sound, spend night near Te Anau
Day 12- drive to Invercargill, sightsee Catlins, spend night near Dunedin
Day 13- sightsee Otago Peninsula, afternoon drive back to QT, night in QT
Day 14- 1:25pm flight QT to AKL (arrive 3:15pm) 8:30 pm flight AKL back to US

I'm real iffy on the whole QT, Milford Sound, Te Anau part...too much back tracking??? How do you fit in the overnight on Doubtful which doesn't get back til noon...wouldn't that be too late to get to Milford the same day to catch the day cruise on Milford (looks like the last one is 3pm)
I'm thinking we might have to change the last couple of days...going to Invercargill, Dunedin areas would really just be extra if we could fit it in. I'd much rather have time to work in the overnight cruise on Doubtful and a day cruise on Milford and maybe some day walks on one of the tracks, but would also like ample time in QT to get in some adventure.
So, any suggestions?????
Please help:):):)


Melnq8 Oct 9th, 2005 04:16 PM

Just a few comments:

CH to Nelson is a long drive - over five hours per my handy little drive calculator, yet on our first trip to NZ it took us closer to 9 hours because there was so much to see and do along the way. From Nelson to Takaka (one end of Abel Tasman) it's another 90 minutes or so. Nelson to Marahau is shorter, if you're starting at that end of Abel Tasman. At which end of Abel Tasman do you plan to stay?
(http://www.accommodationz.co.nz/distances2.html)

Nelson to Hokitika is well over four hours - because you'll be leaving from Abel Tasman (not sure which end) your drive will be even longer.

I'm confused about Days 9, 10 & 11.
Going to Te Anau, then back to Queenstown then back to Milford doesn't make sense. You should head to Te Anau, spend a night or two, and then go to Milford from there. The drive from Queenstown to Te Anau is two hours, then it's another two hours from Te Anau to Milford. Your itinerary has you backtracking.

Personally, I'd skip the entire Auckland/Rotoura portion of your trip and/or skip Dunedin. There's just too much crammed into too little time.

You might also consider just doing the Doubtful Sound Cruise and skipping the Milford Sound Cruise. From what I understand the Doubtful Sound cruise is much better. I've taken the Milford Sound Cruise twice and was disappointed both times (poor weather, which the tour operators will tell you enhances the experience, but I beg to differ).

Melnq8 Oct 9th, 2005 04:33 PM

Here's another idea regarding days 9, 10 & 11 -

Day 9 - If you leave QT in the early morning, you can drive directly to Milford (total four hours), take the Milford Cruise, then drive back to Te Anau for the night.

The following day (#10) you can spend the morning in Te Anau, then take the overnight Doubtful Sound cruise, which leaves from Manapouri at 12:30 pm. Manapouri is a short drive from Te Anau.

You'll be back at Manapouri the following day (#11) at 12:30 pm. From there, you can drive back to QT (two hours) and do your QT activities.

Yet another option is to drive directly from Wanaka to Te Anau on Day 8 (3:30)and go from there.

mlgb Oct 9th, 2005 07:10 PM

I respectfully disagree on the dismissal of Milford Sound. I suppose if you've only seen it in cloudy weather you can be forgiven, but the view of Mitre Peak cannot be matched by Doubtful Sound. To me, Doubtful Sound looked much like Lake Te Anau, until one finally reaches the ocean. I don't think the itinerary is really that bad, although I agree that you don;t always need to go back to Queenstown. From Manapouri or Te Anau, you can also take the Southern Scenic Route to Invercargill and Dunedin. It's a leisurly two days to reach Dunedin with stops on the Catlins Coast. Dunedin is worth full day if you travel out to the Otago Peninsula. You might want to turn in the camper rental in Queenstown and pick up a small car for the end of the journey. You should be able to drop the car off in Dunedin. Then you could fly back Dunedin to Auckland (drop off the car at Dunedin airport on your last day).

Melnq8 Oct 10th, 2005 01:08 AM

mlgb -

I have yet to find someone who agrees with me about Milford Sound (except my travel partner), but I honestly don't understand what all the fuss is about. Having said that, I'd love to see it on a clear day!

Just to clarify for the OP though - I have NOT been to Doubtful Sound, so I can't personally vouch for it, but until now, I've not heard a single negative remark about it. It's been on my personal "to do" list for a long time.

luv2globetrot - if you do decide to do both Milford and Doubtful, please let us know your impressions of the two when you return.

luv2globetrot Oct 10th, 2005 04:24 AM

Thanks Melnq8 and mlgb for the advice. I'm beginning to think maybe we should just cut out the Dunedin and/or Invercargill sidetrips altogether. That would give us more time on the leg from CHC to Nelson, and maybe we could even spend a night in that area...Melnq8, any ideas on a good town to spend the night? I think I'd feel much more relaxed if we gave ourselves 2 nights in QT and 3 nights in Te Anau.
The hard part of all this is that I think that the QT/Milford/Doubtful part of the trip is going to be where we want to spend the most time, but it's coming on the end of our trip...so I want to make absolutley sure we have enough time on the end to see it and not be disappointed that we have to leave without doing lots of things we wanted to do.
I've thought about reversing the trip and starting from QT and ending in CHC, that way we could take as much time as we wanted down there and then if were shortchanged on time we'd be missing out on CHC, which doesn't seem to get as much raving praise. But for some reason I'm hesitant to start out at the "best" part...is that silly?
Anyway, am I the only one who dreams about their itinerary??? I swear, I can barely sleep at night thinking about all this, and when I do I dream about it!!!
Thanks for your support!

sueger Oct 10th, 2005 06:16 PM

just had to respond to your last message. We are also planning a trip to NZ next FEB/MARCH and yes I do spend the nights either thinking or dreaming about the itinerary especially the nights I spend too much time on this computer!! Have you found a place to stay in Te Anau? We are planning an overnight on Doubtful Sound, plus a day driving to Milford Sound. Hope you have a great trip.

Vandy Oct 10th, 2005 06:47 PM

Hi Lisa,
I am in the same boat! We are planning a trip for this december and I too keep deaming abt the trip when I am not browsing through other people's travelogs! And yes I am also saving the best "Milford Sound" for the last.

A friend who had visited NZ last year recommended Barnyard Backpackers as a good place to stay in Te Anau.

So one question I had was if we do Milford Sound do you think it

Vandy Oct 10th, 2005 06:48 PM

Sorry hit the wrong button...

What I was asking is do you recommend that we do both Doubtful Sound and Milford Sound? or going to just Milford Sound is enough?

Kiwis2 Oct 10th, 2005 10:01 PM

Hi Luv2globetrot,
Given the distance the Abel Tasman NP is from the rest of the "hot"spots, I would seriously consider dropping the Nelson leg. To really appreciate the park, you really need to spend longer there, and I'm sure you can kayak in Milford or Doubtful sound. You said you are not into beaches - that is one of the main attractions at Able Tas NP.
I would leave this area for a time when you have longer.

Instead, I would look at spending longer in the Dunedin area with it's combination of incredible architecture and wildlife reserves.

Invercargill is not worth going to on this length trip and I would personally also skip the Caitlins. Itr's not one of the majors.

I would stick with a shortish side trip to Rotorua with the Zorbing. Make sure you spend a couple of hours exploring Kuirau Park - just behind the town centre.

If you enjoy quaint towns, you have to spend at least half a day in Arrowtown, just north of Queenstown and while you are there make sure you check out the chinese camp excavations. It's amazing how they lived back then.

I would go Auckland - Rotorua - Christchurch - West coast - Queenstown - Milford/Doubtful Sound - Dunedin - Auckland.

If you do go to Dunedin - take a couple of hours and do the Tunnel Beach walk. I have described it in other threads. It is an amazing place - such a rugged bit of coast.

There is not much time in any one place but it will give you a good overview and heaps of material for planning NZtrip2.


mlgb Oct 10th, 2005 11:14 PM

And now you are even more confused! Since I've been to Milford Sound twice and Doubtful once, my opinion counts! One nice thing about NZ, is that you will find beautiful scenery no matter where you go, so don't worry too much about missing the best. After 6 trips I'm still looking forward to returning.

And yes, going to Queenstown first is a good option. I really don't think Te Anau itself has much to offer other than a convenient location for visiting Fiordland. So can't imagine spending three nights there. I also find Arrowtown itself worth about an hour. The Arrowtown Golf Course, on the other hand, is worth the side trip.

Melnq8 Oct 11th, 2005 12:49 AM

luv2globetrot -

As far as where to spend the night in the Nelson area:

If Abel Tasman is your destination, I'd suggest you stay in Takaka, Marahau, Kaiteriteri or Motueka, which are all very close to Abel Tasman. Nelson itself is a bit of a drive, and not the best option IMO.

Motueka is about 30 minute drive from Nelson, and Marahau & Kaiteriteri are a tiny bit further.

Motueka and Takaka (Golden Bay) are separated by Takaka Hill, a drive that takes about 45 minutes.

You can access the park from either end - Takaka at the north end (at the Totaranui Visitor's Center) or Marahau at the south end.

Takaka and Motueka offer more services, such as restaurants, hotels, etc. Kaiteriteri and Marahau are smaller areas - Kaiteriteri has a gorgeous beach, and accommodation there is limited to mostly B&Bs and privately owned cottages. Marahau is also small, but has more lodging options. Water taxis and kayak rentals are available at both locations.

If you're looking for a secluded area with very few services, Marahau or Kaiteriteri are for you. If you'd rather be closer to a small town, Takaka or Motueka would be better.

As far as specifics, we've stayed at the following places and have enjoyed all of them:

The Blue Moon B&B (Motueka area)
The Old Schoolhouse Cottage (Tasman area, very near Motueka)
Ashlea Downs Cottage (Takaka)

I love this part of NZ.

Starting your trip in Queenstown is a good option - personally, I'm not a fan of Christchurch and we usually just pass through. Invercargill is not really worth a visit unless you're just passing through. It's a flat, agricultural town with a nice park and that's about it. We spent three nights there once, just for grins.

We liked the Catlins well enough, but I have to agree with Kiwis2, I wouldn't go out of my way unless I had enough time to thoroughly enjoy the area.

I've spent three nights in Te Anau, and while I enjoyed myself, I probably wouldn't do it again, unless it was just out of convenience as a base for the fiords.

I have to agree with mlgb that Arrowtown was worth about an hour. I've also been to NZ six times and like mlgb, still haven't gotten enough.

Don't stress too much - you really can't go wrong in NZ.

Have a great trip!

mlgb Oct 11th, 2005 09:15 AM

I know Invercargill gets no respect. But you mention an interest in towns. So check out Dee ST, with interesting commercial architecture and a few good antique stores. There is also an incredible outlet store (Knight of NZ) for baby lamb clothing and other sheepskin items (gloves & slippers) at 21 Leven St. They would have limited hours but if you are there during a weekday, it's worth a look. Also love the tuatarium and Roaring 40's Exhibit at the Southland Museum. And good food at Jagz Cafe in a residential district near Queens Park (best pumpkin soup of the trip).

luv2globetrot Oct 11th, 2005 11:03 AM

Ok, wow...lots to process! Thanks to all of you!!
Just to clarify, I was only thinking of basing in (or near)Te Anau so that we could get in a day with a nice leisurely drive on Milford road with stops for some of the walks along the way (maybe even walking a half day on one of the tracks) and, a day cruise on Milford Sound, and an overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound. This seems like, to do it all justice, you'd need 3 nights in the area (this includes the night on the boat).
-Melnq8, thanks for all the info on Nelson/Abel Tasman. But it's sounding like we might not make it there...who knows at this point:)
-Kiwis2 and mlgb, thanks for theall the advice and the Arrowtown tip...it's now on the list!
-Sueger, we haven't made ANY reservations yet..we are still deciding if we want to go the campervan route...sweet dreams:):):)
-Vandy,from everything I've read here I"m ready to do an overnight on Doubtful and a day cruise on Milford...good luck and sweet dreams to you, too:)::)
So, yes, I am almost back to square one with planning this itinerary, but I sure have some great ideas thanks to all of you generous posters!!! Thanks so much!
Here's another question...I couln't find on the forum...Can you do an unguided DAY walk on one of the tracks (thinking Routeburn) for free, where you just walk til you're ready to turn around (like just a few hours)?
Lisa

mlgb Oct 11th, 2005 11:53 AM

I haven't done it, but I always see the walk up to Key Summit recommended as a day walk. It's the leg of the Routeburn track that leads off of the Divide on the way to Milford Sound. I am guessing there is not a requirement to reserve for a day walk. You could check on the DOC website if no one else on Fodors can confirm this.

Tim_and_Liz Oct 11th, 2005 01:48 PM

Hi Lisa,
We have a similar itinerary to you... An American couple spending 11 nights in the SI in January.
We are spending 3 nights in Fiordland, coming from Queenstown. The morning of the first day, we're doing the Dart River Jetboat Safari out of Glenorchy, then driving to Te Anau. We have the 8pm glowworm tour booked for that night. Day 2 in Fiordland is completely open for the Milford Rd drive. Since it will be light so late, I think we'll plan on a later start in order to miss the tour buses, but I will talk to our hosts at the Campbell Autolodge to see what they suggest. On the third Fiordland day we board the Doubtful Sound overnight cruise... The following day we're driving to Dunedin.
It was very difficult for us to decide on Milford vs. Doubtful, day vs. overnight, but we finally decided on the daycruise in Milford so that we can take our time enjoying the drive and short hikes off the road, and the overnight in Doubtful. I can't wait! I will be posting a trip report when we return, hopefully before you leave.
Liz

luv2globetrot Oct 11th, 2005 02:16 PM

Liz, I can't wait to hear how your trip goes!!! I like your itinerary...can you fill me in on the rest or I guess I could just look to se if you've posted it before, but I am curious to see what else you've got planned:)
mlgb, thanks for the tip on the Key Summit...I'll definitely be checking that out! Thanks again!
Lisa

Tim_and_Liz Oct 11th, 2005 02:33 PM

Sure, Lisa... I love to "talk" about our upcoming trip!
We are first spending 6 days in Sydney with friends.
Day 1: fly SYD-Christchurch, drive to Kaikoura
Day 2: 5:30am dolphin swim in Kaikoura, drive to Hanmer Springs
Day 3: Drive Lewis Pass to Punakaiki Rocks down to Franz Josef
Day 4: heli-hike
Day 5: Drive FJ- Queenstown
Day 6: Queenstown (TSS Earnslaw, Bungy, other things)
Day 7: Dart River Safari in Glenorchy to Te Anau, Glowworm Tour
Day 8: Milford Road/Sound; Te Anau
Day 9: Doubtful Sound overnight
Day 10: Doubtful Sound to Dunedin
Day 11: Dunedin; Otago Peninsula Tour
Day 12: Fly Dunedin to Fiji (with 2 layovers)

Our lodging, if you decide to skip the campervan:
Kaikoura: Anchor Inn Motel
Hanmer Springs: Settlers Inn Motel
Franz Josef: Punga Grove Motel
Queenstown: Browns Boutique Hotel
Te Anau: Campbell Autolodge
Dunedin: 97 Motel Moray Place


luv2globetrot Oct 12th, 2005 10:58 AM

Thanks Liz, for your trip ininerary and hotel info!! I tried to read through all of your posts on this forum to see how you've been going thru the process to get ideas...boy, it takes alot of work, doesn't it?? But, it sure is fun:)
So, I am leaning towards an itinerary that sounds VERY much like yours. However, I'm having trouble deciding on our transportation. We are leaning towards the campervan because of the ease and time-saving of not having to check-in/out of hotels every day or 2 and packing-unpacking. However, if we do the camper thing we may be limited to pick up in CHC and drop off in QT or vice versa. So it's really hard to to figure out how to fit in either the south coast (Dunedin area) or nort coast (anywhere from Kaikoura to Abel Tasman).
It's so hard to figure out what to scratch off the must-see list!
Also, with the freedom of a campervan it's so hard to know exactly on what date you are going to want to do certain excursions, like the Milford and Doubtful Sound cruises...and if you do book, what if the weather is terrible? I guess you're just out of luck, right and you go and make the best of it? Reservations in advance on those types of things are essential in Feb I'm guessing?
Also, we're more interested in seeing penguins in the wild than dolphins, only because there are other vacations we can take where you can swim with them that are much closer to home...so we kind of wanted to save the time to see things that are unique to NZ.
What do you hear about Lewis Pass? Is it as scenic as Arthur's Pass?
Still, so many questions...haven't really ruled out anything yet...
Thanks again,
Lisa

Tim_and_Liz Oct 12th, 2005 03:20 PM

Hi again Lisa,
Yes it has been very fun planning this trip, AND a lot of work. It must have taken you hours to read through my past posts! I've been working on this for about a year now. I am very much looking forward to this trip.
We decided against the campervan for two reasons: First, DH is tall (6'5") and likely would not fit comfortably. Second, we did not want to have to drive the campervan on windy mountain roads, or to be slowed down overall. If DH was a normal height, I might consider it more.
You could rent the campervan in Christchurch, drive north then through Lewis Pass down the west coast, dropping it in Queenstown. You could then rent a car to see Fiordland, Catlins and/or Dunedin...
We have booked the following excursions: dolphin swimming in Kaikoura, heli-hike in Franz Josef, Te Anau glowworm tour, the Doubtful Sound overnight, and the Otago Peninsula Elm Wildlife Tour.
From what I understand, it is not necessary to book the Milford Sound boat tours ahead of time because there are many operators and we will be going either before or after the tour buses from Queenstown are there. It almost always rains in Fiordland, so rainy weather is expected. (Supposedly it makes the waterfalls even more beautiful.)
I understand your desire to see penguins over dolphins because it is so common to have "Swim with Dolphins" attractions in Mexico, the Caribbean, etc. But those are often very awful conditions with the dolphins treated poorly and contained. The experience in Kaikoura is completely environmentally responsible and the dolphins are in their natural habitat. I have not seen a similar thing anywhere in our travels, nor read about it. That said, we hope to see the penguins in Doubtful Sound and have booked the wildlife tour in the Otago Peninsula.
Finally, I don't believe that Lewis Pass is as scenic as Arthur's Pass... But Haast Pass, which we will be driving between Franz Josef and Queenstown, is. (Someone please correct me if I am wrong.) So we are completely satisfied with our mountain itinerary. (My in-laws live in Colorado too.)
Let me know what you decide!
Liz

luv2globetrot Oct 12th, 2005 10:07 PM

Liz,
It DID take me hours to read thru, and I just kind of skimmed and didn't even get all of them!! But I've basically been at this all day today and into the wee hours you might notice;)
And I've come up with what I hope is a good plan that I can go with!
I'm already finding that flights (within NZ) are getting booked up as well as some of the excursions...I booked our overnight on Doubtful tonight and the days on either side were already booked! And OUCH, they're expensive, eh?
Anyway, this thread was wgetting too long, I feared, so my ne itinerary is posted at "Opinions before I book this trip, please!!!!"
Let me know what you think!
Thanks for all the helpful advice!
Lisa

Sainesy Nov 10th, 2005 05:28 AM

Hi

Found this thread on google when searching for info on NZ - can any of you help me out? I'm flying into CHC on the 4th December and will only 15 nights to see as much as possible in the SI. I'm travelling with two other girls and we're are all in our early 30s. As they are currently travelling in Austalia I am having to research an itinerary so I can let them know. Therefore my suggested itinerary is as follows:

Day 1: Christchurch to Dunedin (stay Dunedin)
Day 2: Drive Dunedin to Te Anau (stay around Te Anau)
Day 3: Relax in Te Anau
Days 4 - 6: Do the Routeburn Track
Days 7-8: Do the overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound then drive to Queenstown
Day 9: Drive to Fox Glacier and do some activity
Day 10: Drive to Marahau
Days 11 - 12: Explore Tabel Asmen
Day 13: Drive to Kaikoura and swim with dolphins / whale watch
Day 14: Drive to vineyard then to Christchurch
Day 15: Fly back to England

We're hiring a motor home and my friends are on a budget as travelling for a whole year. Does the above make sense?
How long will it take to drive from Fox Glacier to Maharau or should we stay somewhere else to explore Abel Tasman.

As my friends are travelling I have limited contact with them, so am having to make all decisions by myself so if anyone has got suggestions to the above I would be very grateful.

Cheers

mlgb Nov 10th, 2005 09:53 AM

Sainsey, I'm not sure about the third day in Te Anau, it has lots of sandflies, really it's just a base for the hiking tracks.

One idea is to add the day along Dunedin to Te Anau. Perhaps see more of Dunedin/Otago Peninsula on the first half of Day 2 and spend night 2 somewhere along the Catlins. Day 3 you can to see the rest of the Catlins-Invercargill-Te Anau leg and still arrive early in Te Anau.

Or, Day 2-3 take the inland route from Christchurch via Tekapo /Twizel, visit Mt. Cook, Cromwell, Queenstown, then Te Anau. Wine tasting is big around Cromwell and the Gibbston Valley east of Queenstown.

If you are looking for a winery between Kaikoura-Christchurch, Pegasus Bay is wonderful, and the Kaikoura winery outside of town (to the west) up on the hill is pleasant. Kaikoura has lobster (crayfish) year round. Pacific Seafoods is a supplier that sells to the public, and charges about half the restaurant price. It's located on a short pier at the far west end of town (near the end of Esplanade at Avoca St.)

Two days should be fine in Abel Tasman. I stayed in Nelson, so can't give a recommendation for a closer town.
It would be a long day to reach the coast from the glaciers.

vbca Nov 10th, 2005 04:55 PM

Maybe I can clarify the situation regarding Milford Sound Vs Doubtful Sound.
THey are both simmilar in many ways, but with enough points of difference to make it worth while doing both if you have the time.

Milford is the smaller of the two sounds, and the most spectacular. Granite cliffs rise sheer from the water to over 1 mile above you. Waterfalls drop sheer into the sound, and the boats can nose right up to them so the spray is falling on the fore deck. If you are brave enough you can stand under them.

The drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound is one of the worlds great scenic highways. Allow plenty of time to enjoy it, at least two hours from Te Anau.

Doubtful Sound is much larger than Milford, and more remote. Access if more difficult, so there are fewer people. The mountains in Doubtful Sound are not as sheer as in Milford, but the wildlife is probably better. The trip to Doubtful takes you over Lake Manapouri, then the coach takes you into the giant West Arm Power Station. THis is an underground power station beneath Lake Manapouri. It is really impressive, even if you are not much into power stations. You then travel over the Wilmot Pass to Deep Cove, with great views down onto Doubtful Sound. On Doubtful the boat takes you out to the Tasman Sea, and also into Halls Arm where they shut the motors off and let you hear the sound of silence, It's deafening.

If you have to choose just one I would say Milford. It's the most famous, and with good reason, but if you choose Doubtful you will not be disapointed.

Regarding Rain. Yes, it rains in Fiordland, over 300 inches per year. Next to Mt Manaloa in Hawaii it's the wettest place in the world, so don't get your knickers in a twist if you get a bit damp. It is fantastic in all weathers, and to truely experience the beauty of Fiordland you need at least four visits in different conditions. Although 300 inches / year averages out to about 1 inch per day, it does not, in fact, rain every day. When it rains, it buckets down. 15 - 20 inches per day, so they could get their entire annual rainfall in just 15 days. Of course they don't, and there are quite a few rainly days, but there are also many, many absolutely fabulous days. It's just the luck of the draw.

Regarding Sandflys. Anywhere there is native bush in NZ you will get sandflys. They are not actually "sand" flys. They live in the bush, and breed in gently flowing streams, so they would be more properly called bush flys, Infortunately Capt Cook, who named them was not much into entamology, and he got it wrong, and the name has stuck.

You will not get them much in Te Anau, there's very little native bush left around the town, but if you go over the lake, or into Fiordland National Park you will get bitten. Wear a long sleeve shirt and long trousers, smear some repellent on your hands and around your neck (avoiding your eyes and forehead) and they won't worry you.

The absolutely most fabulous and unforgettable thing you can do in NZ is an overnight cruise on either Milford or Doubtful Sound. It's expensive, but it's worth breaking the budget for.

Time to spend in Te Anau. Ideally two nights. Arive one day, go to Milford or Doubtful the next day, leave for Dunedin or Queenstown the next. Add a day if you want to include another sound, or to do some of the walks in the national park.

Day walks from Te Anau. The Milford Track is a controlled track, and you can't go on it except as part of a organised tour. Trips n'Tramps do day walks on the Milford Track (www.milfordtourswalks.co.nz). Other than the Milford Track you can walk on any of the tracks in Fiordland without a guide and without booking. you WILL need to book if you wish to stay in any of the huts. either the DOC huts, or those used by concessionaires. Tramping in NZ is generally safe. There are no nasties like snakes, bears etc. The main danger is getting lost, and although unlikely on the major tracks, it has been known to happen. We have a very efficient search & rescue organisation which usually manages to find most lost tourists in a day or so. The others usually stumble out after a couple of weeks.

Whatever you decide you won't be dissapointed. everything in NZ is fantastic, and some things are REALLY FANTASTIC.

(Tim & Liz, look forward to meeting you in Te Anau)

momfromnj Nov 11th, 2005 07:12 PM

Arriveing Queenstown in Jan for 8 days before leaving for Sydney. Will be with daughter (20's) and husband. I am booked at Heritage for first 5 nights (flexible) for water /air sports, then off to somewhere for next 3 days. Want to hike, see local culture/geography. Suggestions? Te Anua or Wanaka? Leaving from Queenstown Airport.Should we stay back in Queenstown for last night?
Want to also go to Milford Sound: Overnight Cruise or day? Do I have to book now?

Do I need car? I have never driven on 'wrong' side.

Thanks



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