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-   -   Indian Pacific (https://www.fodors.com/community/australia-and-the-pacific/indian-pacific-575461/)

tampatramp Dec 9th, 2005 02:44 PM

Indian Pacific
 
I'm traveling alone from Sydney to Perth in April by train (sleeper car). Any advice or suggestions? [2nd trip to Oz] then to Darwin/Kakadu.

Alan Dec 11th, 2005 04:33 AM

I hope you enjoy this L-O-N-G trip, which I (and most Aussies) have never done.... my only suggestion is that you write a report for the forum at the conclusion of the trip, please, to tell us how you enjoyed it. We get a lot of people writing in asking about this trip, but most of the replies are from "locals" who haven't actually done the whole thing. Your perspective would be very useful.

You're a braver person than I am!

tampatramp Dec 11th, 2005 03:32 PM

OK, but you'll have to wait till May when I get back for my perspective. I don't think "brave" is the right word though, maybe stupid is. Which is what my friends say I am and why no one will go with me. But I like trains and think it will give me a perspective of how big your wonderful country is. And it will be a nice contrast to hiking/4WD in Kakadu/Arnhem Land. btw, I'm 62 and won't object to the L-O-N-G / relaxing/ easy segment of my trip.

Alan Dec 11th, 2005 04:29 PM

Well, I certainly don't think you're stupid.... in fact, I rather admire your pluck, although I have to say right now that if you have a hankering for a great long train ride, there are probably far more scenic ones you could be choosing than across flat, dry, monotonous Australia! But it's not really the scenery you're going for, is it? (I hope it's not the food, either, as I have heard few compliments about the dining car on the Indian Pacific!)

In any case, it will, as you say, be quite an experience, and it is your detractors, not you, who are the stupid ones.... at least you're getting out there and having a go, and I bet everyone on the train will be patting you on the back for the whole four days (or is it three? or five?). You'll probably get at least a half-dozen proposals!

Take a good book, go and see a few Aussie movies so that you'll understand what people are saying when they chat you up, and godspeed!

One thing you can be pretty sure of.... the trip won't be spoiled by rain!

Bokhara Dec 11th, 2005 06:05 PM

Have a great trip - I'm imagining "Orient Express",cocktails, flapper dresses & velvet smoking jackets!

Funnily enough, I heard a review of it over the weekend which was very positive. The reviewer described herself as an inveterate train traveller and was particularly complimentary about the food.

This surprised me a little as I've two friends who have done the Ghan trip; one Adelaide to Alice Springs at Easter 2004, and the other on the inaugural Adelaide to Darwin leg. Both of them were severely underwhelmed. Different train, I know, but I'd have thought probably same catering company. Anyway, seems as if the IP is very good these days.

A tip: If they have two dinner sittings - 6:30 & 8:30, you may need to be a little assertive to get the one you want. My Easter 04 friends, who had started their day in Sydney's Blue Mountains at 4am were understandably a little weary by nightfall and wanted the early sitting but were brusquely told there were too many children on board and they'd have to take the 8:30. When they checked, there were 3 children and a raft of empty tables, one of which they promptly occupied.

I think you'll enjoy the scenery, too. The changing countryside from Sydney to Perth will give you a good idea of the diversity of our landscape.

And, as Alan says, you can always settle back with a good book & a deck of cards if the mood takes you :)

Peteralan Dec 11th, 2005 07:46 PM

Well I did the whole trip some years ago and really enjoyed it but then I , like you, enjoy train travel. I was very apprehensive at the thought of three days on a train but I found I wasn't bored at all. It was certainly a bizarre experience crossing the Nullabor itself in that you would look out the window all day at the same flat scenery, sleep all night and wake up next day only to see the scenery had not changed! We sat in the cabin sometimes or went to the lounge/bar car when we felt like it, slept, read, played cards abd generally relaxed. We seemed to be constantly being brought cups of tea and eating as well as meeting some interesting people from all over the world. Don't listen to the putdowners...just go and enjoy an experience you will always remember. Cheers!

downunder05 Dec 12th, 2005 09:31 AM

TAMPATRAMP-Hope I can help out a little here. We just returned from our IP trip a few weeks ago! By the way, I noticed your screen name--Tampa as in Tampa, Florida? Just curious since we're in Orlando!
Oh well, we did some searching for advice on the IP before we booked and didn't find much so I'm happy to try to help. Although we only did the Adelaide to Perth segment in Gold Kangaroo sleeper class, I'd say we had a positive experience. The twin sleeper was very compact yet surprising efficient and comfortable. Our friend had a single sleeper and I have to say the it was very very small and sort of resembled soiitary confinement! It didn't matter much because we really didn't spend much time in our cabins.The staff was very attentive and the food was good. Although the scenery was pretty much the same (not much of anything) through the Nullarbor, we still found plenty to keep us occupied.
We spent part of the time searching for animals (camels, brumbies,emus, dingos, eagles and various farm animals)in the lounge while relaxing between meals. We also had stops in both Cook (just a quick stretch and short wander around an abandoned ghost town while they refuel during the day)and Kalgoorlie (a longer stop to visit the Super Goldpit on an optional tour)to break up the monotony. We didn't really get bored at all. Sunrises and sunsets are beautiful! As far as some of the comments, I'll give you my opinion and let you decide yourself.
I would not say the train is very decadent, certainly not ala Orient Express. There are very few people under 40, most were retirees on our trip.
There are two dinner sittings and they ask which you prefer when you board. The older people and those with small children generally choose the earlier sitting while the middle-aged chose the latter. We're in our 40's and chose the later sitting and we were very happy with that crowd. Single travelers are usually seated with another group at a table for 4. We were seated in our group of 3 and were joined by a young single man from England for our meals.A bit of warning tho--if you do choose the earlier sitting, it is more rushed than the second one. The latter sitting is much more relaxed because they're not rushing to get everything cleared for the next group. Try and avoid the last row of tables because they sit over the wheels so you'll be bouncing all over the place! Also, the train pulled out of Adelaide nearly 2 hours late which made for a very late dinner for everyone. Allow extra time in your schedule once you get off in Peth as the train is very often late (although somehow they made up time on our trip and we made it to Perth on time) The off-train stops are often cancelled or cut short to make up time.
All in all, we had a good time. Interestingly, the three of us all gave it different ratings. My husband and our friend raved about it while I thought it was OK. I didn't think it was worth quite that much money. You have to pay for your own drinks other than water. coffee and tea and the some of the off-train tours are extra. I also thought the time spent could have been used elsewhere. If this was my very first trip to Australia and I had less than a month, I wouldn't suggest it. That being said, my husband and his friend just raved about how wonderful it was to be totally isolated from the rat race and they were able to just sit and zone out so it was worth every penny to relax. Hope this helps--if you have any other questions, please post and I'll try to answer.

margo_oz Dec 12th, 2005 11:50 AM

Well, this Aussie has done it, too - although some years back.

It was interesting - as described above - but I wouldn't come back by train again - the second trip does become a tad tedious. But...it's a great way to get an idea of the size and sheer emptyness of this country!

tampatramp Dec 12th, 2005 04:39 PM

Thanks to everyone who responded, I'm feeling much better now. I really appreciate the tips on dining and the dining car (thanks Bokhara and downunder05).

downunder05: yes, Tampa as in Florida. (Tramp as in traveler). no, I didn't expect the drinks to be free. (free beer in Australia! I'm ready to move). I did plan on 4 full days in Perth even if the train is late before flying to the top end.

As for the train not "worth quite that much money".
what is? I'd rather die poor with the memories, than rich never having spent a penny on something "not worth it" and never traveling. I'm sure you'll remember the trip long after you forgot what it cost. thanks again for your comprensive reply.




tampatramp Dec 12th, 2005 04:51 PM

Alan: any Aussie movies you'd reccommend? I liked: Walkabout, The Last Wave, Picnic at Hanging Rock, Rabbit Proof Fence, Priscilla Queen of the Desert , and some others I can't remember the names of.

Neil_Oz Dec 12th, 2005 05:40 PM

While Alan's thinking about that, I'd recommend:
* "Lantana" (2001) - Anthony LaPaglia, Geoffrey Rush, Barbara Hershey,
* "Little Fish" (2005) - Cate Blanchett and Hugo Weaving,
* "Looking for Alibrandi" (2000) - Pia Miranda, Greta Scacchi, Anthony LaPaglia,
* "The Castle" (1997) - the only name you might recognise is Eric Bana's, but don't let that put you off,
* "The Year My Voice Broke" (1987) - Noah Taylor, Ben Mendelsohn,
* "Flirting" (1991) - a companion to the previous flick - Noah Taylor, Thandie Newton, Nicole Kidman
* "Shine" (1996) - Geoffrey Rush deserved that Oscar.

downunder05 Dec 12th, 2005 07:39 PM

You're certainly right about the memories! We had a great time and I shouldn't have complained about the price. I just think that if you fork out the money for Gold Kangaroo class, you shouldn't have to constantly dish out money to pay for water in between meals or soft drinks at meals. That said,the positives far outweigh that and I'm sure you'll enjoy the journey. We love living in Florida but it really does pale in comparison to beautiful Australia. Have a wonderful adventure!

fuzzylogic Dec 13th, 2005 01:16 AM

Have a fantastic time tampatramp - I would love to do that trip one day "because it's there".

Love "Walkabout" and "Picnic at Hanging Rock" - 2 of my all time favourite films.

If I can add a few to Alan's list - they're not in quite the same class as walkabout and PAHR, but still pretty good.

"Japanese Story" (2003). Takes a while to get going but redeems itself by the end. Stars the landscape and Toni Collette.

"The Tracker" (2002) stars a much older David Gulpilil than seen in "Walkabout".

"The Dish" (2000) - lots of fun. Sam Neill is the big name.

Best of luck.

Sarvowinner Dec 13th, 2005 03:44 AM

Muriel's Wedding - Toni Collette
Strictly Ballroom - Paul Mercurio and Gia Carides (Now Anthony LaPaglia's wife). This was the first movie made by Baz Luhrman.

Neil_Oz Dec 13th, 2005 11:59 AM

That was Neil's list, fuzzylogic, but never mind. Agree with your nominations except for "Japanese Story" - people either loved or hated it, I was in the second camp.

fuzzylogic Dec 14th, 2005 04:05 AM

Whoops - apols, Neil.

Alan Dec 14th, 2005 02:00 PM

An understandable mistake, Fuzzylogic; after all, the list was such an erudite one, obviously compiled by someone with wit, taste and intelligence; not the sort of thing one would expect to see written by Neil!

Neil_Oz Dec 14th, 2005 04:01 PM

I didn't really expect there to be any identity confusion, Alan.

Alan Dec 15th, 2005 03:32 AM

Neil, there's a quite-long thread going around on the Tripadvisor forum at the moment headed "Aussie movies" (or similar), in which more than a dozen people have prepared their own lists (I only suggested two: Wake in Fright and Newsfront). Have a look through it, as I think you'd find some of the suggestions interesting (although when they started mentioning "Alvin Purple", I confess I had to quickly turn to another thread lest I lose my reputation for moderate language and infinite tolerance).

Season's Greetings to you!


Neil_Oz Dec 15th, 2005 12:42 PM

And likewise to you, Alan. Yes, there were quite a few stinkers in the 1970s. "Alvin Purple" of course, not to mention the Barry McKenzie films - less said the better. Most recent Oz flicks usually are more in the "lame" category than out-and-out awful, although I'd make an exception for "Better than Sex". I had to agree with the American critic who commented that "there may indeed be things that are better than sex, but this movie is not one of them".

I'd forgotten about "Newsfront".


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