Experiencing life as an Aussie for one year!
 

Hello fellow Fodorites!

I will be spending one year in Sydney (July 2004 - July 2005) for the purpose of study. Although I am a relatively new Fordorite, I have gained a great wealth of information from this travel forum thus far. I am very impressed by the sincerity and quality of the posts.

Since I will be living in Sydney for one year, my questions will be slightly different from those of a tourist. As a result, I hope my questions do not infringe upon the guidelines of this forum. Well, here goes...

1. I will be arriving in Sydney during the winter season. Would you say that the winter in Sydney is comparable to that of Vancouver? In other words, wool coat or gortex jacket? Since I have to pack for a year's long stay, I would rather not bring both as this would take up a lot of space in my luggage!

2. I will be living on a shoestring (i.e. student) budget and would be interested to learn where the locals living near UNSW shop for food and personal items. I would prefer to cook than to eat out. And by cooking, I do not mean macaroni and cheese...

3. I understand that Sydney has an excellent transportation system. From what I have gathered, thus far, it appears to me that the TravelTen tickets are the only "long term" use option available for Sydney buses. Do monthly bus passes, which offer unlimited travel over a period of a month, exist?

4. During my year in Sydney, I hope to venture out and explore the rest of Australia's beautiful eastcoast. Since I will have to schedule my travels around the mid-session breaks, I am tentatively planning three separate trips for these following times of the year:

late September to early October (Gold Coast, GBR, Daintree Rainforest, Cape Tribulation)

mid February (Melbourne, Great Ocean Road)

late March to early April (Hobart)

Would travel be suitable for the abovementioned times of the year?

I apologize if I am rambling on for much too long. I hope my questions are appropriate for this forum. Thank you kindly to those of you who choose to answer my questions! It is much appreciated.

Cheers.

1. Sydney winters are infinitely better than Van.Goretex jacket.However your aprtment may not be as well heated as Van.

2.Congrats on your choice of UNSW..happens to be my alma mater.You will find a lot of o/s students there.
The cheapest living is on anzac parade in kensington and Maroubra.Shop at asian supermarkets along anzac parade or the shopping centre in Maroubra junction. Randwick and Coogee are more glamorous but more expensive.Get a place within walking distamce of campus.Have a beer for me at the Regent Hotel.

3.I think that you can buy a weekly bus pass.

4.Is UNSW running an international semester system? whats happened to the long summer (Jan,Feb) break?

Hi latitude49, like you I'm a new "Fodorite", this is my very first post !

As a native of Sydney (born here, moved away at age 2, returned at age 10, where I've remained for the next 36 years) I think I can give you a fair bit of detail about my "home town", so here goes.

1. Winter in Sydney - I think you'll be pleasantly surprised how temperate the climate is in Sydney, even in the middle of winter. You could click on the link I've provided here (http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averag...w_066062.shtml) to the Bureau of Meteorology archival data for the main weather station for Sydney (at "Observatory Hill", right next to the Sydney Harbour Bridge), but basically you can expect to find max day time temps of around 16-20C in July (that's about 61-68F), sometimes even warmer, but rarely lower !

2. Shoestring budget - depending on where you find 'digs' around UNSW (n.b. my dad was a lecturer there, since retired, so I know a fair bit about the area), you will have the choice of several shopping centres all within a 5-10km radius, it's up to you if you want to travel far or not. The areas johhj mentions are good, and there is also a major shopping centre (like your "malls") located nearby at Eastgardens, their link is here: http://www.westfield.com/au/centres/nsw/eastgardens/

3. Transport - yes, when it works, the transport system is good, but if you are living within close proximity of the UNSW, then I don't know that you would really need much in the way of travel passes. BUT, if you did want to check out the range of available options, try this link: http://www.131500.com.au/tickets_student_travel.asp for more details. Personally, I use a "Blue Metro Ten" bus ticket (cost $A11.80), you, as a student would get a discount on that no doubt, not quite sure what % it would be. The Metro ten is good for 10 short (Zone 1-2) trips, with no expiry date on them, if travelling on a regular basis though, there are weeklies, monthlies, quarterlies, etc.

4. Travelling further afield - any time of year is a good time to see the sights (and sites) you mention there, although it will start to get a bit chilly in March/April in Hobart, Tasmania then, maybe you will need that Goretex after all !

Good luck with whatever you do, I know you're going to love it !

I'd say your matching up of destinations and time of year for your time off is pretty canny.
I'd bring the Gore-tex. I you decide to go somewhere not in yr plan - Snowy Mtns for example - you have it to use. And it's an outer layer so even if you are wearing it over a t-shirt it does the job.
Ít never gets REALLY cold in Sydney, but I'd bring a 2-season fleece if you have one rather than a "wool coat".

I think I would change the GOR from February though as I was in Victoria and Melbourne twice this last February and it looked like something from the nuked or microwaved dust bowl. Also in February Melbourne can have some rather nasty very, very hot days i.e. 40+ so I don't think that is a good time to go.
Perhaps change that for Tassie and hope there has been some rain by April in Victoria.

Thank you all for responding to my questions! I'm truly grateful for your comments.

johhj - What a pleasant surprise to come across an UNSW alumni on this forum. To answer your question about the semester system, the program I will be undertaking involves three semesters (summer session included). Hence, the reason for my not being able to do much travelling during the summer break.

New_Guy - Thanks for making my thread your first post! I will indeed check out the meteorology link you have provided. The reason why I would like to learn more about the Sydney bus system is because the buses may prove to be a lifesaver if ever I choose to go grocery shopping at the Paddington Market! By the way, I believe international students are exempt from receiving discounted fares for use of public transportation.

alice13 - Goretex and fleece! Got it! You have convinced me to leave my wool coat in Vancouver (where it belongs).

lizF - Yes, I agree, 40C would just be unbearable. Flipping Melbourne/GOR with Hobart would make a lot more sense. Reading your message has also made me wonder about dust storms. I read somewhere (although, now I can't seem to recall where exactly the source came from) that Sydney experienced a dust storm not too long ago. Is this phenomenon a common occurence in Sydney (or cities, in general)?

I am currently looking for rental accommodations in the Kingsford area. How would you describe this neighbourhood? Most importantly, is it a relatively safe place to live?

Once again, thank you for any input!

Back again ! Well, as someone who works in the Paddington area, I suspect you've been given a bit of misinformation about the (colloquially called) "Paddo Markets" (http://www.paddingtonmarket.com.au/), they have many stalls, but I wouldn't be shopping there for fresh produce and the like, are you sure it wasn't Paddy's Markets (http://www.paddysmarkets.com.au/) located in the inner-city (and a bus ride away from Kingsford) suburb of Haymarket ? Just a thought !

Basically anywhere in the general Kensington/ Randwick/ Kingsford/ Matraville sort of area would be fine for access to UNSW and most importantly (for some!) the beaches, I have friends that live in Kingsford and they love it. And yes, it's safe !

why Kingsford? Granted it is fairly close to UNSW but it's not a suburb with a great 'profile'. It's not "my" part of town; much more familiar with the western suburbs - but if you are looking for share accommodation then I would have thought Randwick or Kensington or Bondi Junction would be much more fun.

There will be a student accommodation section in the UNSW admin. Have you tried them?

The UNSW campus is long and narrow on an east -west axis with a quite steep hill mid campus.Find out where your classes will be...it may affect the suburb you want to stay in.

Once upon a time I had a chem prac (kensington end of campus) followed by an evening biochem lecture (randwick end)Needless to say on many occasions the thought of the Baxter Steps led me to study ethanol metabolism (at the Regent) rather than metabolic pathways at Biomed.

What are you studying?

Once again I have gained yet more tidbits of information, which proves the resourcefulness of this forum!

New_Guy - You have cleared up my confusion about Paddington Market and Paddy's Market. Here I was thinking they were two different names for the same place. Yes, it would probably be more worthwhile to do my weekend grocery shopping at Paddy's Market! According to the website you've provided, there are two Paddy's Market locations: Haymarket and Flemington. The former appears to be the closest to UNSW. Thanks!

alice13 - I am sort of leaning towards Kingsford because it is directly south of the UNSW campus (yes, very close in proximity). Also, from what I can view on a map (www.whereis.com.au) there appears to be a racecourse situated between Kensington and Randwick... not to mention several golf courses around Kensington. I thought perhaps all that noise might be a little too distracting. I might be interested in considering the western suburbs as an alternative option. When you say west, how far west do you mean?

johhj - I had a good laugh reading your recollection of your biochem days! I would like to avoid staying in the student dormitories at UNSW if at all possible. Again, too many distractions with all of those social activities taking place in the dorms. I will be studying urban development and design.

Speaking of noise again, I see that Sydney Airport is really not that far from UNSW (on a map, that is). Can inbound and outbound flights be heard from USNW?

Hello - I guess I was just trying to put my eastern suburbs suggestion in context - ie. I don't live there. Sadly even suburbs just west of the city would not be good if you have to travel to UNSW. I'm 99% certain there are no direct buses. To get across the city you would always have to change.

There is, I think, a bus from Leichhardt towards UNSW. But, living towards the beaches would be more fun. There's plenty of shared housing around there, too, but you'll have to be careful in your choice of housemate if you want to study, rather than party.

I don't think the airport noise is much of a problem around there.

I can't believe John abandoned the study of biochem for investigating ethanol! :o

Hello alice13 - True, the western suburbs may not be an ideal location for student living in terms of the commute. Yet, I may have to make my way out to there as part of my volunteer activities. Camden, Narellan, Campbelltown, and Ingleburn are suburbs that I may have to visit.

Are these suburbs all part of Greater Sydney, or do they comprise of a region separate from that of Greater Sydney?

Out of curiosity, are the far western suburbs mostly agricultural lands?

margo_oz - Ah, yes, finding housemates can be a challenge! Living near the beaches really does sound appealing, but I'm not sure if that kind of an environment would suit me. Thanks for your post. I see that you are familiar with one of the posters here on this thread!

latitude49, if you need to get to those areas by train maybe there's a case for the inner suburbs of Redfern, Chippendale or Newtown, which are handy to suitable railway stations. All are close to Sydney Uni and therefore popular with students. You can ignore any negative publicity you may hear about Redfern - my son lives in a "group house" there and has no problems. However, there'll be a trade-off in terms of access to UNSW. Maybe depends on the frequency of those volunteer activities.

The housing in these inner-south/west suburbs is mostly Victorian-era terrace (row) houses suitable for shared occupancy, also some apartments. Your share of the rent would fall somewhere in the range AU$100-150 per week, plus utilities.

Campbelltown, Camden, Narellan and Ingleburn are considered part of greater Sydney, semi-rural but rapidly becoming part of a still-raw "suburban sprawl". As in many US cities, Sydney has experienced rapidly-rising housing costs with once working-class inner suburbs being occupied by middle-class professionals and tarted up. This trend has forced many new home-buyers to move further out - like 50-60 km (~30-40 mi) further out.

OH YUK!
Kingsford, Mascot, Newtown and ( heaven forbid - Redfern) and areas that are within easy access of the University are dreadful. I would either stay in the University accommodation or get out entirely.
My son is currently studying at Macquarie Uni and the accommodation around the University is beautiful and the area around the Uni. lovely too, but last year he was at Maroubra which had the advantage of being new the beach but far from the University. I think personally that if I was attending UNSW I would either live there or get out in a suburb with access to the beaches and access to good transport. Latitude - my son is doing the same as you I think. Anyway I would come over and book into the Y for a while and look around to see what is available first. In the wrong area of Sydney life can be hell!!

Diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks, Liz. Life in the inner suburbs is just what many people are after - no need for a car, packed with pubs, cafes and things to do, close to the City etc. Many such people would react to the idea of living near Macquarie Uni with an "OH YUK!" My kids, raised in Canberra' sedate suburbia, found Redfern (and inner Newcastle for that matter) just great. I will say that my daughter preferred to avoid Redfern railway station at night - she didn't feel unsafe, just didn't want to run the risk of being "hassled". Much of Redfern is populated by upwardly-mobile RAV4 drivers and young people in group houses. There are many pleasant little tree-lined streets with good-quality old housing, especially on the eastern side.

Howbeit, we don't know what latitude49 might see as a good weekend. A session at a pub with a good live band, followed next morning by a restorative latte around the corner? Or choir practice followed by an exciting morning dead-heading the roses? Not knowing his/her age, sex, tastes or inclinations, there's no harm in canvassing options.

Latitude49, dust storms are unusual in Sydney. And while Sydney's rail system is good by the standards of many cities it's essentially radial in design. For cross-journeys you're mostly reliant on the buses, which in Sydney's traffic can be deathly slow.

Neil_Oz and lizF - Boy, do I ever appreciate your different opinions! You have provided me with great information, which has allowed me use more precise keyword searches on the Internet.

I have now learned how the political boundaries of NSW are arranged. Suburbs like Redfern and Maroubra, for example, are not self-governing, as I had originally thought. Maroubra is a suburb under the local government jurisdiction of Randwick, and Redfern is a suburb governed by the South Sydney City Council (which I understand was recently amalgamated with the City of Sydney).

Now knowing this, I have been able to retrieve suburb profiles from local government websites and census information from the Australian Bureau of Statistics!

At this point in time, I think I will continue to search for shared housing somewhere within walking distance to UNSW. After a few months of living in Greater Sydney, I'm sure I will gain a better sense of what the other suburbs are like. And, who knows, I may consider moving if it is worthwhile.

Transportation will be a huge issue for me as I may not only have to travel westbound (i.e. Cambelltown, Ingleburn, etc.), but I may also have to venture south to Como, Sutherland, Engadine. However, I don't imagine that my trips to these outskirts will be all that frequent. I suppose I will just have study the bus and rail routes very carefully.

Thank you everyone for generously offering your input! I'm looking forward to a wonderful year in Sydney. Cheers.

Having left Sydney at an early age and moving to Queensland with its slow pace, ability to park outside the shop I wanted to go into, and room to move etc I still busted my G...ts to get back to Sydney which was my dream. Got there and lasted about 3 weeks. Taking 1 1/2 hours to get to work when we lived only about 6 miles out and on 3 different types of transport was not my idea of fun so I went back to the laid back lifestyle of Qld and have only been back to Sydney on shorter visits. I love Sydney but I can understand how difficult transport can be ( especially when it just doesn't go sometimes) Your idea Latitude49 in waiting for a while and staying in shared accommodation is a good one because then you can pick and choose to your heart's delight. I don't think you will have any trouble getting accommodation at all. Enjoy your time there because it is a great place and there are many things to do and see.
While you are at it enjoy your studies.

While you're on the Net, go to www.cityrail.gov.au and check the rail network map (you can download it in PDF). All the places you've mentioned except Narellan have a train station, but not all on the same line, of course. As you'll see, all roads lead to two stations: Sydney Central and Redfern.

As an ex-Sydneysider I can sympathise with Liz's position - as people in Canberra say of Sydney, "nice place to visit, but who'd want to live there?" Having said that, if I was young and/or rich, I probably would.....

I'm not young - and I don't know how you define 'rich'. I'm well paid but not sufficiently to spend $100, or even $50, on a meal, when most times the food in the local neighbourhood Thai is just as good. Wish I could say the same about 'Indian' food - but there you go.

It's all relative - and how you choose to spend you money.

Latitude - I love Sydney. Neil's take is that Canberra is to die for - I don't think so - and neither does he - an in joke, I think. As for Queensland - great to visit but not to live in!!!