Down Under ... New Zealand & Australia
Oct 27th, 2009, 05:11 PM
#21
I'm glad I added to your brief visit in return I enoyed your storytelling style.
I love that little Canterbury Museum and the upstairs part. If you want to go to Antartica by way of NZ, though, I think you need to be part of a scientific expedition.
Otherwise it's done from South America.
I love that little Canterbury Museum and the upstairs part. If you want to go to Antartica by way of NZ, though, I think you need to be part of a scientific expedition.
Otherwise it's done from South America.
Oct 28th, 2009, 11:06 PM
#23
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Great report, DMB. Sorry about the crappy weather here in Christchurch. It has been a miserable Spring so far and we locals are sick of it. Looks like it will get a bit better next week (hopefully!).
Rob.
Rob.
Oct 31st, 2009, 02:05 PM
#26
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AUSTRALIA – DAY ONE
In search of Nicole Kidman, I am airborne from Christchurch, New Zealand to Sydney, Australia. As we make our approach to Sydney, I am offered a cabin crew window seat and jump at the opportunity. Click, click, click and Australia's coast line along with a few beaches are captured by Sony. Nicole is not waiting for me in the airport, so after a three and a half hour sit I dine on some “Hungry Jack” aka “Burger King” and I am on my way to Cairns.
This time I am given an emergency exit window seat with lots of leg room. I am charmed and pay full attention when all the passengers sitting in the emergency exit row are given a full personal “Aussie” briefing.
Arriving on schedule, the hunt for accommodation begins. After speaking with Gloria on the phone and her offering to pay for airport transportation, Carvella Backpackers is where I will call home for the night. Gloria who is from New Zealand makes checking in quite entertaining. She maintains several conversations with guests while registering some of them, explaining brochures to others then reloading an Internet Card for another. I am exhausted just watching.
Carvella is located on the quiet side of town but not too far from Cairns nightlife. It is Tuesday Night and Woolshed on Sheilds Street has a 5 for 10 beer special before 11pm. Thanks to Gloria its free admission but I miss the special. Nevertheless, I think I am thirsty and order a pint of the local beer. Surprisingly it is not Fosters!
A short stay at Woolshed and it is onto Gilligans, famous for it's “party” atmosphere. With a half decent set of ears or a good hearing aide, Gilligans is not that difficult to find. A sticky dance floor limits my dance moves but tells me that Gilligans lives up to its reputation. I “stick” around, no pun intended, just to make sure.
Back at Carvella it will be a short night as plans call for a decent priced brochure advertised trip to The Great Barrier Reef. 8:30am …. All Aboard!
In search of Nicole Kidman, I am airborne from Christchurch, New Zealand to Sydney, Australia. As we make our approach to Sydney, I am offered a cabin crew window seat and jump at the opportunity. Click, click, click and Australia's coast line along with a few beaches are captured by Sony. Nicole is not waiting for me in the airport, so after a three and a half hour sit I dine on some “Hungry Jack” aka “Burger King” and I am on my way to Cairns.
This time I am given an emergency exit window seat with lots of leg room. I am charmed and pay full attention when all the passengers sitting in the emergency exit row are given a full personal “Aussie” briefing.
Arriving on schedule, the hunt for accommodation begins. After speaking with Gloria on the phone and her offering to pay for airport transportation, Carvella Backpackers is where I will call home for the night. Gloria who is from New Zealand makes checking in quite entertaining. She maintains several conversations with guests while registering some of them, explaining brochures to others then reloading an Internet Card for another. I am exhausted just watching.
Carvella is located on the quiet side of town but not too far from Cairns nightlife. It is Tuesday Night and Woolshed on Sheilds Street has a 5 for 10 beer special before 11pm. Thanks to Gloria its free admission but I miss the special. Nevertheless, I think I am thirsty and order a pint of the local beer. Surprisingly it is not Fosters!
A short stay at Woolshed and it is onto Gilligans, famous for it's “party” atmosphere. With a half decent set of ears or a good hearing aide, Gilligans is not that difficult to find. A sticky dance floor limits my dance moves but tells me that Gilligans lives up to its reputation. I “stick” around, no pun intended, just to make sure.
Back at Carvella it will be a short night as plans call for a decent priced brochure advertised trip to The Great Barrier Reef. 8:30am …. All Aboard!
Nov 1st, 2009, 07:14 PM
#28
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CAIRNS – DAY ONE
With Great Barrier Reef excitement, I wake up about twenty minutes later than planned. Fortunately, love her but Gloria is not working this morning so a speedy exit is made from Carvella. The “Compass Boat” leaves in less than half an hour as I make my way to the booking office where I am confronted with disappointment. Apparently, “The Skipper” has ran off with Ginger, Mary Ann and maybe the professor too ….. as he is no where to be found. My 9 hour tour for today has been canceled.
“No worries, mate” within the hour I am headed south on Highway 1 to Yungaburra. Exiting at Highway 52, I spot my favorite fruit dangling from huge trees along the roadside. My mind starts racing with the possibilities. The calm road soon turns into a tempest of hair pin curves and switchbacks as it ascends a mountainous terrain. The landscape shows signs of new life as evidence remains from a recent forest fire.
Yungaburra approaches and at the local grocery store I purchase a “Coke & Pie” special (AU$5). A short drive and I am enjoying lunch as I watch a family tubing on nearby Lake Tinaroo. Returning to Yungaburra there is a ”Platypus” viewing platform but it is the wrong time of the day for a possible sighting. However, not far from there guaranteed sightings of Curtain Fig tree are assured. Standing about one hundred feet tall with a huge trunk and root structure this tree began it's life as a seedling on another that it has since conquered and destroyed. This is my minor introduction to the rain forest.
Leaving Curtain Fig Tree, I start a waterfall tour with my first stop at Malanda Falls. This time of the year the waterfall flow is low but it is still worth a stop. There is a brief walking trail nearby that offers another opportunity to explore the local rain forest.
Most bouncers I know are huge, mean, tough and far less talkative than the bloke I meet at Malanda Dairy Museum. Telling me that cows have four... “that's right four stomachs” and all the wonderful things that are made from milk, “Bouncer” a cute kangaroo is spokesman for the Australian Dairy Board. An informative video narrated by none other than … gives a good and sometimes comical presentation of Australia's dairy life. I am dairy enlighten!
Continuing my waterfall tour, next it is Millaa Millaa then Dinner Falls where I take a refreshing plunge. The water is a bit cold but the air is warm and I am not shaking as I exit.
If Jimmy Hoffa was Australian, I would have a good idea of where to start looking for him. If you have a bad dinner recipe or other questionable evidence that you want to conceal, “The Crater” might be a good place to start. From a platform above “The Crater”, it takes a tree branch about ten seconds to crack the green duck weed surface of the water below. Beneath the surface the water follows a curved passage of uncertain length and depth from this volcano created chasm. What mysteries it holds may be only known by Jimmy and a few of his mates.
On the road again, I have escaped the fate of one Mr. Hoffa. Through Wongabel State Forest I am headed towards Atherton. Warning signs alert me to the presence of Tree Kangaroos which I did not know existed. They are in need of a better advertising agency.
At 80kmh, a glimpse of white headstones catches my eyes and I do a quick u-turn. I am at Atherton War Memorial Cemetery where I pay honor and respect to some of Australia's finest who served their homeland in World War II. A visitor's log is available in which I record my thoughts as others have before me.
In Atherton, I get a sense of small town mid-west America complimented by a Super IGA. For me, grocery stores are a must stop because there I get the flavor and a sense of the local community. Community post boards are common with one posting offering a free rooster to a good home.
Today, I am in for two surprises with one of them being potentially dangerous. The deli offers an apple crusted (I think) enchilada for only AU$3. A tooth-pick tasting is delicious and I am not in East LA. Although these are meant to be taken home and cooked, I am given one from the sampling table hot and ready. A little “Aussie” hospitality.
Turning down an aisle my second surprise, a dangerous encounter. OMG, … Whittaker also makes an ALMOND and COCONUT SLAB! This requires a secret emergency maneuver but I am having a sinking feeling that being “Down Under” much longer, I might become an illegal immigrant or have to leave as freight.
Filled and refreshed, I continue my road tour for a peek of “The Outback” hoping to spot a kangaroo or some other Australian wildlife. Along the road there are unfortunate sightings of wildlife that have not met a kind fate. As dusk approaches somewhere along Highway 27, a few wallabies are spotted in an open field. Sensing the dangers of a digital camera they frantically hop away. Taking a side road a small group is found in a mango grove less aware of an intruder. Rounding a curve, I finally capture a wallaby up close but only in my headlights.
With night falling, I am again along the edges of the rain forest and take the sounds of it to my dreams. Nicole where are you?
With Great Barrier Reef excitement, I wake up about twenty minutes later than planned. Fortunately, love her but Gloria is not working this morning so a speedy exit is made from Carvella. The “Compass Boat” leaves in less than half an hour as I make my way to the booking office where I am confronted with disappointment. Apparently, “The Skipper” has ran off with Ginger, Mary Ann and maybe the professor too ….. as he is no where to be found. My 9 hour tour for today has been canceled.
“No worries, mate” within the hour I am headed south on Highway 1 to Yungaburra. Exiting at Highway 52, I spot my favorite fruit dangling from huge trees along the roadside. My mind starts racing with the possibilities. The calm road soon turns into a tempest of hair pin curves and switchbacks as it ascends a mountainous terrain. The landscape shows signs of new life as evidence remains from a recent forest fire.
Yungaburra approaches and at the local grocery store I purchase a “Coke & Pie” special (AU$5). A short drive and I am enjoying lunch as I watch a family tubing on nearby Lake Tinaroo. Returning to Yungaburra there is a ”Platypus” viewing platform but it is the wrong time of the day for a possible sighting. However, not far from there guaranteed sightings of Curtain Fig tree are assured. Standing about one hundred feet tall with a huge trunk and root structure this tree began it's life as a seedling on another that it has since conquered and destroyed. This is my minor introduction to the rain forest.
Leaving Curtain Fig Tree, I start a waterfall tour with my first stop at Malanda Falls. This time of the year the waterfall flow is low but it is still worth a stop. There is a brief walking trail nearby that offers another opportunity to explore the local rain forest.
Most bouncers I know are huge, mean, tough and far less talkative than the bloke I meet at Malanda Dairy Museum. Telling me that cows have four... “that's right four stomachs” and all the wonderful things that are made from milk, “Bouncer” a cute kangaroo is spokesman for the Australian Dairy Board. An informative video narrated by none other than … gives a good and sometimes comical presentation of Australia's dairy life. I am dairy enlighten!
Continuing my waterfall tour, next it is Millaa Millaa then Dinner Falls where I take a refreshing plunge. The water is a bit cold but the air is warm and I am not shaking as I exit.
If Jimmy Hoffa was Australian, I would have a good idea of where to start looking for him. If you have a bad dinner recipe or other questionable evidence that you want to conceal, “The Crater” might be a good place to start. From a platform above “The Crater”, it takes a tree branch about ten seconds to crack the green duck weed surface of the water below. Beneath the surface the water follows a curved passage of uncertain length and depth from this volcano created chasm. What mysteries it holds may be only known by Jimmy and a few of his mates.
On the road again, I have escaped the fate of one Mr. Hoffa. Through Wongabel State Forest I am headed towards Atherton. Warning signs alert me to the presence of Tree Kangaroos which I did not know existed. They are in need of a better advertising agency.
At 80kmh, a glimpse of white headstones catches my eyes and I do a quick u-turn. I am at Atherton War Memorial Cemetery where I pay honor and respect to some of Australia's finest who served their homeland in World War II. A visitor's log is available in which I record my thoughts as others have before me.
In Atherton, I get a sense of small town mid-west America complimented by a Super IGA. For me, grocery stores are a must stop because there I get the flavor and a sense of the local community. Community post boards are common with one posting offering a free rooster to a good home.
Today, I am in for two surprises with one of them being potentially dangerous. The deli offers an apple crusted (I think) enchilada for only AU$3. A tooth-pick tasting is delicious and I am not in East LA. Although these are meant to be taken home and cooked, I am given one from the sampling table hot and ready. A little “Aussie” hospitality.
Turning down an aisle my second surprise, a dangerous encounter. OMG, … Whittaker also makes an ALMOND and COCONUT SLAB! This requires a secret emergency maneuver but I am having a sinking feeling that being “Down Under” much longer, I might become an illegal immigrant or have to leave as freight.
Filled and refreshed, I continue my road tour for a peek of “The Outback” hoping to spot a kangaroo or some other Australian wildlife. Along the road there are unfortunate sightings of wildlife that have not met a kind fate. As dusk approaches somewhere along Highway 27, a few wallabies are spotted in an open field. Sensing the dangers of a digital camera they frantically hop away. Taking a side road a small group is found in a mango grove less aware of an intruder. Rounding a curve, I finally capture a wallaby up close but only in my headlights.
With night falling, I am again along the edges of the rain forest and take the sounds of it to my dreams. Nicole where are you?
Nov 2nd, 2009, 11:22 AM
#29
Haha! Whittakers is stalking you. Yes they make a variety of slabs and blocks(the large size).
On their website I count 24 varieties made into the large blocks. I hate to admit how many types I have sampled but I favor rum & raisin and dark chocolate ginger.
Happy continued travels.
On their website I count 24 varieties made into the large blocks. I hate to admit how many types I have sampled but I favor rum & raisin and dark chocolate ginger.
Happy continued travels.
Nov 2nd, 2009, 02:26 PM
#30
Sounds like I need to find myself some Whittakers...I'm not a fan of Cadbury although I just lugged about 20 pounds of it to the US for friends and family.
Don't forget the Maltesers! And maybe a Tim Tam or two...
Still enjoying your report DMB, do carry on please.
Don't forget the Maltesers! And maybe a Tim Tam or two...
Still enjoying your report DMB, do carry on please.
Nov 2nd, 2009, 11:23 PM
#31
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CAIRNS – DAY TWO
I am awaken not by a free rooster but by the surround sound of birds in the trees of the rain forest. Nature's alarm clock rewards me with an Australian sunrise. The sun making its gradual ascent over distant hills while lifting the fog from the valleys below. The day has began.
It is early enough for me to make a stop at Barron Falls before continuing to Cairns for another attempt at visiting The Great Barrier Reef. The path to Barron Falls again takes you under the canopy of the rain forest where the rising sun provides only a glimmer of light. There are hundreds if not thousands of vines and trees extending to the heavens in search of this light leaving a comfortable shade behind.
An important part of Aboriginal history, Barron Falls is awesomely beautiful and peaceful. It makes a steep and graceful descent along a landscape littered with rocks and huge boulders. It occasionally pools in certain areas before continuing its settling journey down stream.
Again, no luck today as “Compass” will not be sailing this week. At the Reef Fleet Terminal other options are available but out of the price range I am willing to pay. These are mostly 8:30 – 5pm trips to mid reef or the outer banks ranging from AU$168 – 200's on fancy boats that seem more catered to divers than snorkelers. I am looking for the SS Minow. Brochures in town offer prearranged booking for about AU$100 for snorkelers without all the whistles and bells. There's even a half-day trip from Cape Tribulation that sounds interesting.
56km north of Cairns along Captain Cook Hwy is Port Douglas. Considered Australia's most “scenic coastline drive” there is not much to argue except I am again taunted by dangling fruit. 56Km is a short in distance but not in time when there is so much beautiful scenery to enjoy. Cliffs and The Great Dividing Range on my left, beaches and scenic vistas on my right with a few curves to mix it up. A stop at a “Bottle Shop” aka “Liquor Store” and couple of local beers are purchased for an open eye unscientific taste test.
At Port Douglas Lookout I find out I am about 15184km away from home give or take a few kilometers. This seems as good a place as any for a test taste. The weather is a beer thirsty 25C give or take a few C's as a coastal breeze gently sweeps the condensation on the competitors. A deafening silence as caps are twisted and the competition begins …. VB Bitters claims a solid victory over XXXX Gold. Like “The Skipper”, Ginger and Mary Ann, Fosters is no where to be found.
My Great Barrier Experience has been narrowed down as I continue to Cape Tribulation. 11Km south of Daintree a turn is made and shortly I am waiting to cross Daintree River (AU$20 Return). A five minute or less ride/pull on a double cable car ferry and I am about 45 minutes away from Cape Tribulation where I will spend the night. Good portions of the road produces a scenic coastline then I am under the canopy of the rain forest using single lane bridges to cross creeks and rivers. A lone on the road I occasionally stop on a bridge or two and watch the water pass beneath me.
In Cape Tribulation my ultimate introduction to the rain forest begins. On trail walks, leaves fall as the wind picks up in advance of frequent but short lived rain storms. Under some areas of the forest the rain becomes a drizzle buffered by the towering trees above. I am truly experiencing the rain forest!
With a rising tide, water fills the areas below my path and I watch as a fish rejoices at being freed from its mud hole prison. The mangrove trees are huge here and are an important life blood of the forest.
At Cape Tribulation Beach the wind has stirred up the surf but I take a swim in the warm waters. Making my way back to my car, I am caught in another rain storm but without the protection of the rain forest. I take a refreshing drenching.
A Safari Hut, a simple four post structure, single lamp, single fan and bed will provide accommodations for the night at Jungle Lodge(AU$60). It is from here that I will do my Great Barrier Reef half-day excursion tomorrow morning with Ocean Safari (AU$108).
It is late afternoon but another mesmerizing rain forest walk is in order and not disappointing. A stop at Masons Swimming Hole and it is Geronimo!!!! as I join others in making swinging plunges from a rope. Not a croc in sight.
PK Hostel across the street Jungle Lodge promises local entertainment for the night but being on “Big Island” time it takes forever to get started and my energy expires.
I awake in the middle of the night to the rain massaging the roof of my Safari Hut. However, it soon lures me back to sleep. In the morning, my Great Barrier Reef experience will be fufilled.
I am awaken not by a free rooster but by the surround sound of birds in the trees of the rain forest. Nature's alarm clock rewards me with an Australian sunrise. The sun making its gradual ascent over distant hills while lifting the fog from the valleys below. The day has began.
It is early enough for me to make a stop at Barron Falls before continuing to Cairns for another attempt at visiting The Great Barrier Reef. The path to Barron Falls again takes you under the canopy of the rain forest where the rising sun provides only a glimmer of light. There are hundreds if not thousands of vines and trees extending to the heavens in search of this light leaving a comfortable shade behind.
An important part of Aboriginal history, Barron Falls is awesomely beautiful and peaceful. It makes a steep and graceful descent along a landscape littered with rocks and huge boulders. It occasionally pools in certain areas before continuing its settling journey down stream.
Again, no luck today as “Compass” will not be sailing this week. At the Reef Fleet Terminal other options are available but out of the price range I am willing to pay. These are mostly 8:30 – 5pm trips to mid reef or the outer banks ranging from AU$168 – 200's on fancy boats that seem more catered to divers than snorkelers. I am looking for the SS Minow. Brochures in town offer prearranged booking for about AU$100 for snorkelers without all the whistles and bells. There's even a half-day trip from Cape Tribulation that sounds interesting.
56km north of Cairns along Captain Cook Hwy is Port Douglas. Considered Australia's most “scenic coastline drive” there is not much to argue except I am again taunted by dangling fruit. 56Km is a short in distance but not in time when there is so much beautiful scenery to enjoy. Cliffs and The Great Dividing Range on my left, beaches and scenic vistas on my right with a few curves to mix it up. A stop at a “Bottle Shop” aka “Liquor Store” and couple of local beers are purchased for an open eye unscientific taste test.
At Port Douglas Lookout I find out I am about 15184km away from home give or take a few kilometers. This seems as good a place as any for a test taste. The weather is a beer thirsty 25C give or take a few C's as a coastal breeze gently sweeps the condensation on the competitors. A deafening silence as caps are twisted and the competition begins …. VB Bitters claims a solid victory over XXXX Gold. Like “The Skipper”, Ginger and Mary Ann, Fosters is no where to be found.
My Great Barrier Experience has been narrowed down as I continue to Cape Tribulation. 11Km south of Daintree a turn is made and shortly I am waiting to cross Daintree River (AU$20 Return). A five minute or less ride/pull on a double cable car ferry and I am about 45 minutes away from Cape Tribulation where I will spend the night. Good portions of the road produces a scenic coastline then I am under the canopy of the rain forest using single lane bridges to cross creeks and rivers. A lone on the road I occasionally stop on a bridge or two and watch the water pass beneath me.
In Cape Tribulation my ultimate introduction to the rain forest begins. On trail walks, leaves fall as the wind picks up in advance of frequent but short lived rain storms. Under some areas of the forest the rain becomes a drizzle buffered by the towering trees above. I am truly experiencing the rain forest!
With a rising tide, water fills the areas below my path and I watch as a fish rejoices at being freed from its mud hole prison. The mangrove trees are huge here and are an important life blood of the forest.
At Cape Tribulation Beach the wind has stirred up the surf but I take a swim in the warm waters. Making my way back to my car, I am caught in another rain storm but without the protection of the rain forest. I take a refreshing drenching.
A Safari Hut, a simple four post structure, single lamp, single fan and bed will provide accommodations for the night at Jungle Lodge(AU$60). It is from here that I will do my Great Barrier Reef half-day excursion tomorrow morning with Ocean Safari (AU$108).
It is late afternoon but another mesmerizing rain forest walk is in order and not disappointing. A stop at Masons Swimming Hole and it is Geronimo!!!! as I join others in making swinging plunges from a rope. Not a croc in sight.
PK Hostel across the street Jungle Lodge promises local entertainment for the night but being on “Big Island” time it takes forever to get started and my energy expires.
I awake in the middle of the night to the rain massaging the roof of my Safari Hut. However, it soon lures me back to sleep. In the morning, my Great Barrier Reef experience will be fufilled.
Nov 3rd, 2009, 01:36 AM
#32
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CAPE TRIBULATION – SNORKELING GREAT BARRIER REEF
08:15AM ... And I am waiting with eleven others at Ocean Safari for a half-day snorkeling trip. A short briefing and about nine of us are loaded in a mini-bus for a short drive to Cape Tribulation Beach. We are driven there by the wife and part owner of Ocean Safari who advises us to buckle up. Her husband who will be one of our guides strongly agrees as he warns us..... “I have seen her drive”.
At Cape Tribulation Beach the wind is blowing about 20-25 miles per hour as we make an assisted beach boarding on the boat that will take us snorkeling. A safety briefing takes place as we are swayed by the waves and told to expect a bumpy ride. With a slight grin we are informed that the back of the boat will be the most comfortable ride. I observe a silent count of passengers by both crew members and we are on our way.
Powered by two Yamaha V8's... Smiles are wide and hair is wild except mine as we begin an exhilarating ride east bound. An occasional ocean spray brings laughter and bodies bounce as we crest and descend 6-8 foot waves at about 40 mph. I wish Nicole was here, she would enjoy this. Cape Tribulation coastline expands and then disappears under a gray vista as our distance grows from it. The weather is beautiful on the water but rain is falling again in the mountains and rain forest behind us.
After 35 minutes we are at our first snorkel sight. We suit up in cool Star Trek Federation dive suits and then we are given another safety briefing involving hand signals. Don't wave both hands over your head unless a giant squid has you by the legs and you need serious help. Use only one hand to call your friends over to check out what you just spotted below.
Splash and I am in another world. The water is warm with good visibility and I am greeted by a visual delight. Bright blue “Star Fish” cling to beautiful corals as an array of large and small colorful fish maneuver about the reef. A dive and I approach a giant clam that closes as it senses my presence. Resurfacing, ten feet below me I witness a group of fish in a feeding frenzy. This almost all seems unreal except I can hear myself breathing.
About an hour later, we pull anchor and move to another nearby reef. Here, turtles and stingrays are spotted. Again, this is an amazingly beautiful and colorful world. As our return time approaches, I abandon my snorkel gear and take a relaxing swim. I have lived one of my dreams.
Back on board a role call is made of all passengers and with everyone accounted for the Yamaha V8's are fired up. From Halloween in Australia, Kangaroos, Sydney, American Football, Hippies and Sarsaparilla, I share a nice conversation with an Australian couple as we make our way back to Cape Tribulation.
Did you know that Australia's oldest “Hippie” community was located just north of here until the 1990's? “Like wow man, I guess I am just a little late to join”. Besides this local interesting information, an offer is made to show me on landing where I can purchase “The Best Sarsaparilla”. How can I refuse?
We disembark on a different beach than our launch but a short walk and we are back at Ocean Safari. I am escorted by “The Ambassador Of Sarsaparilla” to PK Market where I lay out AU$3 for a cold bottle of Bundaberg Sarsaparilla.
Damn, The Ambassador Is Right!
This has been an awesome experience and Ocean Safari did an excellent job. This is a well run family business that deserves your consideration if you do not want to be on a boat all day for the same amount of actual snorkeling time. I understand all boats give you about 2 hours in the water except most take about an hour and a half to get to snorkel sites compared to 35 minutes with Ocean Safari.
A dip in the pool, a shower and it will be time to head back south.
08:15AM ... And I am waiting with eleven others at Ocean Safari for a half-day snorkeling trip. A short briefing and about nine of us are loaded in a mini-bus for a short drive to Cape Tribulation Beach. We are driven there by the wife and part owner of Ocean Safari who advises us to buckle up. Her husband who will be one of our guides strongly agrees as he warns us..... “I have seen her drive”.
At Cape Tribulation Beach the wind is blowing about 20-25 miles per hour as we make an assisted beach boarding on the boat that will take us snorkeling. A safety briefing takes place as we are swayed by the waves and told to expect a bumpy ride. With a slight grin we are informed that the back of the boat will be the most comfortable ride. I observe a silent count of passengers by both crew members and we are on our way.
Powered by two Yamaha V8's... Smiles are wide and hair is wild except mine as we begin an exhilarating ride east bound. An occasional ocean spray brings laughter and bodies bounce as we crest and descend 6-8 foot waves at about 40 mph. I wish Nicole was here, she would enjoy this. Cape Tribulation coastline expands and then disappears under a gray vista as our distance grows from it. The weather is beautiful on the water but rain is falling again in the mountains and rain forest behind us.
After 35 minutes we are at our first snorkel sight. We suit up in cool Star Trek Federation dive suits and then we are given another safety briefing involving hand signals. Don't wave both hands over your head unless a giant squid has you by the legs and you need serious help. Use only one hand to call your friends over to check out what you just spotted below.
Splash and I am in another world. The water is warm with good visibility and I am greeted by a visual delight. Bright blue “Star Fish” cling to beautiful corals as an array of large and small colorful fish maneuver about the reef. A dive and I approach a giant clam that closes as it senses my presence. Resurfacing, ten feet below me I witness a group of fish in a feeding frenzy. This almost all seems unreal except I can hear myself breathing.
About an hour later, we pull anchor and move to another nearby reef. Here, turtles and stingrays are spotted. Again, this is an amazingly beautiful and colorful world. As our return time approaches, I abandon my snorkel gear and take a relaxing swim. I have lived one of my dreams.
Back on board a role call is made of all passengers and with everyone accounted for the Yamaha V8's are fired up. From Halloween in Australia, Kangaroos, Sydney, American Football, Hippies and Sarsaparilla, I share a nice conversation with an Australian couple as we make our way back to Cape Tribulation.
Did you know that Australia's oldest “Hippie” community was located just north of here until the 1990's? “Like wow man, I guess I am just a little late to join”. Besides this local interesting information, an offer is made to show me on landing where I can purchase “The Best Sarsaparilla”. How can I refuse?
We disembark on a different beach than our launch but a short walk and we are back at Ocean Safari. I am escorted by “The Ambassador Of Sarsaparilla” to PK Market where I lay out AU$3 for a cold bottle of Bundaberg Sarsaparilla.
Damn, The Ambassador Is Right!
This has been an awesome experience and Ocean Safari did an excellent job. This is a well run family business that deserves your consideration if you do not want to be on a boat all day for the same amount of actual snorkeling time. I understand all boats give you about 2 hours in the water except most take about an hour and a half to get to snorkel sites compared to 35 minutes with Ocean Safari.
A dip in the pool, a shower and it will be time to head back south.
Nov 3rd, 2009, 05:07 PM
#33
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DMB, this might be too late for you, but damn, you picked some lousy Australian beers! VB? Yuk. It's a pity you didn't try Cooper's, any of the James Squire range or Matilda Bay Fat Yak.
(Old joke:
- Why do Queenslanders call their beer XXXX?
- They can't spell "beer".)
Pity you didn't try a Bundy-and-sarse (Bundaberg rum with sarsaparilla).
And yes, Foster's, like Nicole Kidman, is made for overseas consumption....
Jokes aside, thanks for a well-written trip report.
(Old joke:
- Why do Queenslanders call their beer XXXX?
- They can't spell "beer".)
Pity you didn't try a Bundy-and-sarse (Bundaberg rum with sarsaparilla).
And yes, Foster's, like Nicole Kidman, is made for overseas consumption....
Jokes aside, thanks for a well-written trip report.
Nov 4th, 2009, 08:08 PM
#37
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BACK TO CAIRNS
Funny how you observe different things when you drive in a different direction on the same road. Captivated by the scenery driving to Cape Tribulation a few days earlier, I missed two worthwhile detours.
First, if you are inclined for “Afternoon Tea And Crumpets”... What better way to do so than at a tea plantation? Daintree Tea Company just outside of Cape Tribulation is a worthy stop.
Second, an even more worthy stop and “Bouncer” would whole heartedly agree is at Daintree Ice Cream Company. AU$5 and I am enjoying the sampler cup of the day with four different tropical fruit flavors including Jack Fruit, Black Sapote and Sour Sop. As my taste buds are being delighted, I stroll the grounds and get a close up inspection of some of the fruit trees and beautiful flowers that are in bloom. I find the Jack Fruit tree most interesting.
Back on the road and I am faced with a situation that I can no longer tolerate. I make an abrupt pull over as I pass a second set of trees teasing me with dangling fruit above and a carpet of fruit on the ground below. Just out of my reach and proving that “White Men” aren't the only ones that can't jump, I find an Australian solution to my problem. With a stick as a boomerang, I am soon recovering a handful of fresh tree ripen “Mangoes” …my favorite fruit! These are sweet and dripping with flavor. It would be ecstasy if they were chilled.
A Mango Victor, I press on to Mossman Gorge. In the foothills of an Aboriginal community, Mossman Gorge with gigantic smooth boulders shaped by an aggressive water flow is an impressive site. There is a suspension bridge nearby but unfortunately it is closed for repairs. However, from any view point it is still a gorgeous scenery with the sound of rushing water and various exotic birds in the background. A visitor center near the entrance does offer Aboriginal guided bush walks until about 3pm.
A good portion of the highway to Mossman Gorge is lined with mango trees and this time there is no hesitation on my return to town to have a feast. Tour buses pass by and I think they don't know what they are missing.
A mandatory stop at the grocery store in town and I make an inquiry from a customer in the produce section where I might enjoy a kangaroo steak in town. He's not sure but he sets of in search of an answer for me. “Ah, mate over there wants to know where he can get a kangaroo steak”, I hear him say as he waves me over from the meat department. I am shown some fresh kangaroo steaks (AU$7) that are bright red with no visible fat, unfortunately I don't have a grill. “Try in Port Douglas”.
Just outside of town I am taking pictures of a poinciana tree full of bright flowers when I notice a huge tamarind tree across the street. Like mangoes, this is another fruit tree from my youth. I don't resist the journey back in time but find all the fruits to be green. “If you want ripe tamarinds, you have to go back to Davis Park. A big tree there” I am told by a local aboriginal young man walking by.
A u-turn and I am shaking the tamarind tree at Davis Park. If you are unfamiliar with tamarinds be prepared for serious facial contortion unless you find a sweet one. Most of them are nature's “sour pucker” although a refreshing drink can be made with cold water and lots of sugar.
A stop in Port Douglas but no luck finding a kangaroo steak. Darkness comes along Captain Cook Highway and I enjoy the ocean sounds one more time. I leave Cairns tomorrow before darkness will have a chance to expire. At 5:45am I will be on my way to Sydney.
Funny how you observe different things when you drive in a different direction on the same road. Captivated by the scenery driving to Cape Tribulation a few days earlier, I missed two worthwhile detours.
First, if you are inclined for “Afternoon Tea And Crumpets”... What better way to do so than at a tea plantation? Daintree Tea Company just outside of Cape Tribulation is a worthy stop.
Second, an even more worthy stop and “Bouncer” would whole heartedly agree is at Daintree Ice Cream Company. AU$5 and I am enjoying the sampler cup of the day with four different tropical fruit flavors including Jack Fruit, Black Sapote and Sour Sop. As my taste buds are being delighted, I stroll the grounds and get a close up inspection of some of the fruit trees and beautiful flowers that are in bloom. I find the Jack Fruit tree most interesting.
Back on the road and I am faced with a situation that I can no longer tolerate. I make an abrupt pull over as I pass a second set of trees teasing me with dangling fruit above and a carpet of fruit on the ground below. Just out of my reach and proving that “White Men” aren't the only ones that can't jump, I find an Australian solution to my problem. With a stick as a boomerang, I am soon recovering a handful of fresh tree ripen “Mangoes” …my favorite fruit! These are sweet and dripping with flavor. It would be ecstasy if they were chilled.
A Mango Victor, I press on to Mossman Gorge. In the foothills of an Aboriginal community, Mossman Gorge with gigantic smooth boulders shaped by an aggressive water flow is an impressive site. There is a suspension bridge nearby but unfortunately it is closed for repairs. However, from any view point it is still a gorgeous scenery with the sound of rushing water and various exotic birds in the background. A visitor center near the entrance does offer Aboriginal guided bush walks until about 3pm.
A good portion of the highway to Mossman Gorge is lined with mango trees and this time there is no hesitation on my return to town to have a feast. Tour buses pass by and I think they don't know what they are missing.
A mandatory stop at the grocery store in town and I make an inquiry from a customer in the produce section where I might enjoy a kangaroo steak in town. He's not sure but he sets of in search of an answer for me. “Ah, mate over there wants to know where he can get a kangaroo steak”, I hear him say as he waves me over from the meat department. I am shown some fresh kangaroo steaks (AU$7) that are bright red with no visible fat, unfortunately I don't have a grill. “Try in Port Douglas”.
Just outside of town I am taking pictures of a poinciana tree full of bright flowers when I notice a huge tamarind tree across the street. Like mangoes, this is another fruit tree from my youth. I don't resist the journey back in time but find all the fruits to be green. “If you want ripe tamarinds, you have to go back to Davis Park. A big tree there” I am told by a local aboriginal young man walking by.
A u-turn and I am shaking the tamarind tree at Davis Park. If you are unfamiliar with tamarinds be prepared for serious facial contortion unless you find a sweet one. Most of them are nature's “sour pucker” although a refreshing drink can be made with cold water and lots of sugar.
A stop in Port Douglas but no luck finding a kangaroo steak. Darkness comes along Captain Cook Highway and I enjoy the ocean sounds one more time. I leave Cairns tomorrow before darkness will have a chance to expire. At 5:45am I will be on my way to Sydney.
Nov 4th, 2009, 08:56 PM
#38
Hi DMB,
Try the Orient Hotel in the Rocks http://www.orienthotel.com.au for a kangaroo steak. It's not too unusual to find 'roo on the menu in pubs, bistros & restaurants around Sydney. Best eaten on the rare side, it can be a bit tough if it's too well done. If you like venison, you'll enjoy it, I think.
Less easily found, but worth a try in a cassoulet, is emu.
I think I'm enjoying your trip almost as much as you are. I know those mango trees near Mossman Gorge - we helped ourselves to a few and cooled them off in the gorge. Sitting on a rock, legs in the water, with mango juice dripping off our chins. Heaven! Thank you so much for a most entertaining and well written trip report. Pity I'll be away in the Blue Mountains this weekend - would have been nice to meet you.
While you're in the Rocks, there's a great spot to taste (and smell) a huge range of Australian wines. Food's very good, too.... Wine Odyssey http://wineodyssey.com.au
Cheers & good travelling - when are you leaving our shores?
Bokhara
Try the Orient Hotel in the Rocks http://www.orienthotel.com.au for a kangaroo steak. It's not too unusual to find 'roo on the menu in pubs, bistros & restaurants around Sydney. Best eaten on the rare side, it can be a bit tough if it's too well done. If you like venison, you'll enjoy it, I think.
Less easily found, but worth a try in a cassoulet, is emu.
I think I'm enjoying your trip almost as much as you are. I know those mango trees near Mossman Gorge - we helped ourselves to a few and cooled them off in the gorge. Sitting on a rock, legs in the water, with mango juice dripping off our chins. Heaven! Thank you so much for a most entertaining and well written trip report. Pity I'll be away in the Blue Mountains this weekend - would have been nice to meet you.
While you're in the Rocks, there's a great spot to taste (and smell) a huge range of Australian wines. Food's very good, too.... Wine Odyssey http://wineodyssey.com.au
Cheers & good travelling - when are you leaving our shores?
Bokhara
Nov 4th, 2009, 09:06 PM
#39
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You should be able to get a kangaroo steak in Sydney if you cannot find one up there in NQ. Also look for Wallaby saucages. I am surprised that you didn't want to have crocodile steaks or croc stir fry - its pretty good!!!!! If you had been going to the Northern Territory you could have had their greatest delight of Buff and Barra ( combination of buffalo and Barramundi ) no other Barramundi is anywhere near as good as the ones in the NT and that goes for Queensland when I say that too. I know the mangoes along the road to PD and Mossman but they are what the locals call turpentine mangoe and because they are stringy they are considered as rubbish. A Bowen Mango is what you should have been looking for, either that or an R2E2 but even so they do not come close to the Bowen Mango
Nov 5th, 2009, 10:06 PM
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Bokhara ... Unfortunately, I am back home but thanks for the info. I did go past The Orient Hotel but did not bother to check there as I was discouraged from numerous previous inquiries around town. I know better for next time. Enjoy your weekend.
