Have to head out for lunch right now as your post made me ravenous for olives.

Glad to hear it's getting cooler!

Hi Mel,
Ellis Brook will be much prettier in spring when the wildflowers are out. Lots of Enamel orchids on the walk up from the main BBQ area. They come in different colours - purples to pinks.

http://www.waratahsoftware.com.au/pa..._pa220330.html

Hi Maudie -

Maybe we'll give it another try come spring. Any suggestions for other walk tracks we should check out?

Hi again,
Haven't read all of this post but we did come across this a few months ago but no way are we walking over summer! Part from this heat - I don't like snakes.
http://www.keptrack.com.au/

We did this a couple of weekends ago:
http://www.toptrails.com.au/index.ph...reserve-trail/ - but of course its down south.

South of the river: Have you walked from say Deepwater Point or the Raffles along the river past Heathcote and Applecross? Some lovely little cafes at Applecross Village on Ardross Street. We also enjoy walking from Point Walter heading in the Fremantle direction.

Churchman's Brook Dam is a nice area to wander around but wait until its cooler.

I will put my thinking cap on and see what else I can come up with.

Thanks Maudie.

26) The monks beckon...

Uncooperative weather forces us to postpone a visit to New Norcia twice in as many weeks, so waking to a beautiful Saturday morning and a willing spouse brings a huge smile to my face.

We leave the city under a cloudless August sky and work our way to the Great Northern Highway via Gnangara Road, a diversion necessitated by the temporary closure of the Reid Highway. We’re surrounded by bush and kangaroos, a bit of a surprise as we’re still relatively close to town.

We turn left onto West Swan Road, passing the naked winter vines of the Swan Valley wine region. Another left turn, and we’re on the Great Northern Highway, vibrant green pastures on either side of us as we work our way through the sprawling Perth Hills towards the town of Bindoon.

The Great Northern Highway is the longest intrastate highway in Australia; it’s predominantly a single carriageway (one lane in each direction) and provides access to Western Australia’s mining areas, the mineral rich regions of the Pilbara and the Kimberley. As such, the Great Northern is used extensively to transport mining equipment. Road trains can be as long as 36 meters (118 ft), loads can be up to five meters wide (16.4 ft) on weekdays and up to eight meters wide (26.2 ft) on weekends. This makes for some challenging conditions for the average passenger vehicle; there’s a lot of big and tall movement on this road.

Truckers monopolize the highway; we trail a procession of pilot vehicles and trucks with dongas (transportable buildings) perched precariously on their beds; we take it slow and easy, giving the unstable-looking monsters a very wide berth.

We wind our way through the rolling hills, passing trees laden with mandarins and fields of blooming canola. We can almost imagine that we’re in NZ; it’s green and woodsy, sheep and cows dot the countryside, but the trees are all wrong.

One hour and forty-five minutes after leaving Perth, we’re pulling into New Norcia, Australia’s only monastic town. It’s a wow moment; we think we know what to expect, but we’re startled by the sudden appearance of towering Spanish buildings incongruously rising from the red dirt of the Australia bush. An odd sight indeed.

We locate the museum, sign up for a two hour town tour ($15 each) and seek out the New Norcia Hotel for a coffee (or in Bill’s case, a glass of Abbey Ale and a wee bit of their Muscat, both delicious).

Our 11 am tour leaves from the museum. We’re warned that we’ll be crossing the Great Northern Highway, and that the wide loads on the passing trucks infringe upon the pedestrian pathway; we all cautiously cling to the left and reflexively duck our heads.

The next two hours are spent walking the grounds of New Norcia, admiring the architecture and frescoed interiors of its buildings; the Abbey Church, the Monastery and its chapel, the Old Convent Colleges, the Education Center, etc. We learn about the Indigenous, European and Missionary history of the monastery and enjoy stories of its colorful past. We discover that the town is surrounded by a 19,760 acre working farm, and that 27 of the town’s buildings are listed on the National Trust. New Norcia currently houses eight monks, retains 70 employees and supports itself through its farm, bakery, tourism and numerous school and town events. It’s an enlightening tour and a fascinating place…unfortunately, it’s far from tranquil; all that heavy truck traffic barrels right through town.

We’re invited to join the Benedictine monks for mass in the Holy Trinity Abbey Church, during one of their six daily prayers. Our stomachs are growling, so after the tour we head directly to the hotel instead, where we enjoy a lovely alfresco lunch on this beautiful cool day. We both choose the New Norcia Mediterranean Plate, marinated olives, feta cheese, pepper dews, sundried tomatoes, marinated artichoke hearts, roasted red capsicum and cacciatore sausage served with Turkish bread baked on the premises ($20 each). It’s a delicious feast, made all the better with a glass of their Abbey Ale, a high alcohol Trappist beer brewed specifically for New Norcia by Malt Shovel Brewery in New South Wales. Even the non-beer drinker can appreciate this one. We top things off with a slice of their famous nut cake, a rich sweet concoction made with fruit and nuts…it may be famous, but it’s not something I’ll need to try again, thanks.

We return the way we came, once again surrounded by massive trucks and their intimidating cargo as we work our way south. Road trains monopolize the scarce passing lanes, so we poke along, preferring to arrive alive.

On the drive up I noticed that the Bindoon Bakery had relocated, so we stop to investigate on our return. Sure enough, a chat with the proprietor reveals that the bakery moved into a new, much larger building 13 months ago. I pore over the massive selection of tempting goods, settling for a slice of chocolate whiskey cake and a coffee éclair. Both are taken home to share later.

New Norica photos here:

http://tripwow.tripadvisor.com/tripw...f-5e18-99a2?lb

Hi Mel,
From your slideshow Norica appears to be a calm peaceful place. It's jarring to pair the images of the town with a soundtrack of constant heavy traffic until you see the size of those trucks, wow.. a white knuckle drive

Nice report, did you get to see any of the monks?

Thanks sassy_cat. We only saw one monk, who popped into a chapel briefly. The public is invited to attend mass, but we took a pass on that one.

Hi Mel,
Time to get out there and see the wild flowers, plenty of rain means its a good year.

http://www.westernaustralia.com/en/T...wer_Drive.aspx

Long link for a nice weekend drive.

Or this for a longer drive:
http://members.westnet.com.au/wester...inker/WFCP.htm
Very interesting place, accommodation was pretty basic when we were there a few years ago however the owners have a wealth of knowledge. The driving tour we did was brilliant. Great for an overnight stop.

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~wildflowers/manydays.htm
Another site full of info.

Wireless Hill in Applecross, just near Garden City Shopping Centre if starting to burst into life. Kangaroo Paws are coming out and some native orchids on their way in another 2 to 3 weeks.

We really must catch up! My email is ChloePuss at yahoo.com.au

Another enjoyable report Mel!

Thanks Maudie and Toucan. I'll take a look at those links.

27) A day out in Kalamunda

A beautiful morning in mid August; we take a convoluted alternative route to the Perth Hills in a misguided attempt to avoid the Friday morning traffic on the Tonkin and Roe highways. We miss a turn, the plan backfires; we end up exactly where we didn’t want to be. Oh well.

Many turns later, we find what we’re looking for, the Zig Zag Trail on Gooseberry Hill, a former railway switch point, now a narrow three kilometer one way road promising nice views over Perth. The road can be walked or driven, we drive; there are no footpaths and we’ve no interest in being run down. The views from the Zig Zag are nice enough, but certainly not worth going out of one’s way for. It isn’t very high, isn’t very steep and is only mildly interesting. The surrounding homes have some wonderful views and some relatively steep driveways, but the Zig Zag itself is underwhelming. Fortunately, it’s not our primary reason for coming to the Shire of Kalamunda.

We consult our Google map printouts and head to Forrestfield, where we seek out the Palm Terrace Walk, one of several I found on the Kalamunda website. Our directions lead us to the parking area of Lesmurdie Falls in Mundy Regional Park, where we find an information board for three walks, none of them called Palm Terrace. Huh.

We walk all three trails. One leads to the foot of the Lesmurdie Falls (which is an actual thundering waterfall thanks to our wet winter), one leads to a platform that protrudes from the canyon wall and leads above and beyond the falls, and the third (Valley Loop Trail) continues from there, leading across the brook and through bush, eventually depositing us back at the Palm Terrace car park. We don’t know if this is the walk we were looking for, but we enjoy it just the same. I wouldn’t call it particularly peaceful though. The acoustics are strange up here - we hear the roar of airplane engines, distant but surprisingly loud vehicle traffic and even a few trains (90 minutes, 1.9 miles, a bit steep and slippery in spots).

We next seek out the Carmel Walk in Pickering Brook. What Forrestfield and Pickering Brook have to do with Kalamunda I have no clue. Three years in Western Australia and I’m still baffled by the endless intertwined city, town, shire and suburbs. One minute I’m in Balcatta, the next I’m in Innaloo, and the next I’m in Mt Hawthorn... I have no idea where the boundaries are or why so many names are necessary. It’s all very confusing to someone who comes from a metropolitan area with one name.

This time my web notes save us. This trail is one of those you’d not know was there unless you knew it was there… it begins where two country roads meet (Anembo and Morton); no signs, no car park, just a large gravel rock and a tiny red arrow.

We pull off on the side of the road and embark on the Carmel Walk, which we find as advertised, ‘a pleasant loop walk in the Korung National Park’ (WA national parks are often complete wilderness areas, some don’t have roads or any markings). We enjoy this peaceful ramble through the bush. We skirt an orchard with mostly leafless trees, although some are covered in pretty pink blossoms (cherries?), and follow the detailed walk instructions that thankfully I remembered to tuck into my pocket (“ignore a track to the left, at the T junction, take the left branch”, etc). It’s an enjoyable walk, 90 minutes 3.36 miles.

Ready for sustenance, we backtrack to Kalamunda (the town) and begin our search for a lunch venue I’ve scoped out. Despite our pile of Google printouts, we have to stop and ask for directions, but we eventually manage to locate Embers, a lovely Italian restaurant on the outskirts of town.

We share an entree of crusty bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, it’s a large portion; four huge chunks of bread and a big bowl of oil/balsamic, quite filling ($4.50).

Bill orders the Puttanesca, with chorizo, anchovies, olives, capers, spring onions, fresh chili and fettuccini in a napolitana sauce. He proclaims it excellent and somehow manages to consume the entire heaping portion ($22).

I’m unable to finish my Tortellini Carbonara; it’s excellent, but seriously rich; bacon, parmesan cheese and chicken tortellini in a white wine and cream sauce. Most of it goes home with me and is shared for dinner ($22).

The food is lovely, the portions generous, but we’re most impressed by the attentive, friendly service...the best we’ve had in our three years in WA.

Photos here: 180-187

http://www.worldisround.com/articles.../photo180.html

Wow, you have already been there 3 years? Time does fly. Love the pic of the stuffed Koala on the warning sign.

Hi Toucan -

Perhaps he's the trail marker?

LOL if so he is doing a fine job.

28) A walk amongst the dead…

A gorgeous morning in late August, I grab my camera and drive north on the Mitchell Freeway towards Joondalup. The southbound lanes are bumper-to-bumper chaos, the radio announcer advises there’s been a rollover and three alternate routes are also affected…it’s a good time to be going north.

I take the Whitfords Road exit and almost immediately spot the sign for Pinnaroo Valley Memorial Park. I wouldn’t normally seek out a cemetery for recreation, but I’ve read that Pinnaroo isn’t your average cemetery, it’s even listed as an ‘attraction’ on several WA tourist sites; I’m intrigued.

http://www.mcb.wa.gov.au/OurCemeteries/Pinnaroo.aspx

A quick left turn and I’m parked and walking the grounds, giving wide berth to a cluster of black clad mourners awaiting a service. Pinnaroo Valley feels very much like a park with its manicured lawns, koi pond, water features and fountains. It’s fringed by bush; the Banksias and wattles are in early bloom; gum trees sway against the vivid blue sky.

There are no headstones, but that this is a cemetery is immediately obvious. Plaques are embedded in almost every brick circling the fountains and traverse every pathway. Most of the markers are topped with colorful, yet depressingly gaudy artificial flowers of all description. Pinnaroo claims to be the most environmentally responsible cemetery in Australia and it may be, but ‘environmentally responsible’ + artificial flowers strikes me as a bit of an oxymoron (however, the existing tribute and flower policy is currently under review).

I wander the courtyards, most named after Australian flora. I read the inscriptions, study the photos of those lost and quietly contemplate life. This is the perfect place for peaceful reflection and solitude. I happen upon 15-20 grey kangaroos, quietly munching away on a sprawling lawn. They eye me warily and head into the bush when a maintenance crew disrupts the peace with a chainsaw and wood chipper. I retreat to the café for an alfresco coffee, tilt my face towards the warming sun and enjoy what’s left of winter. I overhear snippets of conversation as mourners mill about sharing hugs and condolences.

I return to where I saw the kangaroos, hoping for a few photos. They’re there, quietly lounging in the bush. As I creep forward, camera in hand, two kangaroos rear up on their hind legs and begin boxing. It’s a great photo opportunity, but I bemoan my inadequate zoom lens as I look on.

Photos here: 188-197

http://www.worldisround.com/articles.../photo188.html

Mel, If I hadn't read your description of the feisty kangaroos I'd have thought they were exchanging rings after their wedding vows; they look so sweet!

I'm not sure what they were doing sassy_cat, but it looked friendly enough...mating ritual perhaps? Maybe an Aussie can fill us in.

Wow Mel, as I understand it you were treated to a fairly rare sight(Australians can correct me if I am wrong). My friend Fiona's Dad said he only saw them boxing once, and he farmed near Newcastle his entire life. Maybe he was pulling my leg, but he didn't seem to be.

29) Wildflowers in the Wheatbelt…

Late September and I’ve got a hankering to drive up north into the Wheatbelt to look for wildflowers. Never mind that I can’t walk a block in my neighborhood without tripping over several wildflower species…never mind that Kings Park is just a train ride away and that the park holds a wildflower festival each September; I want to go north, just because it’s there.

I’ve seen Wongan Hills tossed around on another forum; I do my homework and discover that there are several walking tracks, a couple of overlooks, and that this very week is supposedly the perfect time for orchid spotting. It isn’t close, some ~70 kilometers east of New Norcia, heck, it’s not even on my Perth and vicinity map…naturally, I’m intrigued.

http://www.wongan.wa.gov.au/shire-tourism.asp

I’ve promised Bill that if we play our cards right, we can stop in New Norcia for a late lunch and an Abbey Ale. He’s game.

We’re on the road well before 7 am, taking the Reid Highway to the Great Northern Highway, working our way through the Swan Valley, the grape vines beginning to green up and wildflowers (or weeds, I’m never sure which) virtually everywhere.

We’re in the country in no time, both looking forward to a breakfast stop in Bindoon, dodging the usual heavy truck traffic (and I mean HEAVY, as in road trains and mining equipment being hauled to the mines up north). I notice a distressing abundance of road side crosses, a poignant reminder of the challenges of driving along this road.

We wander through bright green rolling hills and pasture, skirt orange and mandarin groves and arrive at the Bindoon Bakehaus & Cafe just after 8 am. It’s a gorgeous spring morning, clear and cool. I know Bill’s hoping for a plate of Eggs Bennie, but only pies and pastries are on offer, albeit a huge variety of them. I go for a warm ricotta spinach roll; Bill orders the eggs, bacon and tomato pie, but upon breaking into it, he discovers he’s been given the spicy vegetable pie instead. This happens to him a lot, I don’t understand why he so seldom gets what he orders here in WA. I urge him to take it back, he just grumbles and eats it anyway, saying that it’s actually pretty good ($17 total including two large flat whites).

We continue our drive north, surrounded by vibrant yellow canola fields. We turn right on Calingiri West Road and ease our way east, entering the Shire of Victoria Plains. The road reminds us of South Dakota – straight - we crest one hill just to see two more identical hills ahead. We’re surrounded by staggering amounts of yellow.

It gets drier as we approach Calingiri, the trees briefly become very odd, gnarled and spooky looking, reminiscent of a recent visit to Goblin Swamp in the SW of WA. We think we’ve lost the heavy equipment, but alas, there are road trains back here too.

The landscape begins to feel ‘outbacky; dry, dusty and covered in red dirt. We see a sign for a wildflower walk, so we turn right on Bindi Bind- Toodyay Road. We drive several kilometers; there are no other signs regarding the walk, so we turn around and head in the opposite direction towards Wongan Hills.

It very much feels like a wheatbelt out here…flat, agricultural, flat, few trees, flat…it looks exactly like you’d expect a wheatbelt to look. We stop at an out-of place looking lake, Lake Ninan, which we learn is six times saltier than the sea and provides no food, therefore no birds. We continue on the lonely road, arriving in Wongan Hills, home of “Trailers, Trails and Tractors” more than 3.5 hours after leaving Perth. The Shire of Wongan Hills-Ballidu has about 1,140 residents, give or take.

Our first stop is the Visitor’s Center, where we’re given a map and hints on where to go. We head east to the Mount O’Brian Lookout, stopping to photograph wildflowers along the way. We’re swarmed by flies as we walk to the summit, the second highest place in Wongan Hills at a whopping 424 meters above sea level. Magnificent views have been promised. Yes, there are views, but ‘magnificent’ is a bit of a stretch. We move on to Mount Matilda, the highest point in the vicinity at 434 meters. Two trails originate from here, a five kilometer wildflower walk and an 8 kilometer scenic walk. The flies are annoying; we’re suddenly in no mood for a long walk.

We meander, making stops at Roger’s Reserve and Elphin Reserve, hunting for wildflowers, but not finding much more than fields of yellow blooms that we suspect are weeds. We walk the 2.6 kilometer Christmas Rock trail, where we do find some interesting wildflowers….and plenty of flies. My camera battery unexpectedly dies; all those macro shots have taken their toll.

We leave town in the opposite direction that we came, via Waddington-Wongan Hills Road, through more flat agricultural land and a smattering of trees; there’s not much else out here; it’s pretty desolate and lonely.

We eventually rejoin the Great Northern Highway and turn south. Ten miles north of New Norcia it becomes pretty again; more trees, more hills, more green. We pull into New Norica 15 minutes before the hotel restaurant closes for the day, and settle in for a nice lunch and a glass of Abbey Ale on the patio (two Mediterranean plates and two glasses of ale, $47 total).

Then it’s back to the Great Northern for the remaining 130 kilometer drive back to Perth. We make a quick stop in Bindoon to re-visit the bakery (yes, twice in the same day!), to pick up some chocolate cake for later. Yum.

Photos here:

http://tripwow.tripadvisor.com/tripw...3-80f0-4636?lb

30) Rottnest Island...

A cool, very windy day in early November, I’ve booked the ferry from Barrack Street Jetty to Rottnest Island on Rottnest Express (Tuesdays are the cheapest days - $58 return, plus $28 for bike rental on the island). I walk from my home to the nearest train station, catch the train to The Esplanade, then walk from there to the jetty. I board the Rottnest Express ferry, which leaves the jetty at 8:45 am.

The ride down the Swan River is calm and uneventful and includes an interesting commentary. We stop at Northport Rous Head (north Fremantle) to pick up additional passengers.

As we leave the dock at Northport, the crew distributes barf bags. Uh-oh.

The ride from Northport to Rottnest is neither calm nor uneventful. It’s a thirty minute bone-jarring thrill ride thanks to the wind and rough sea conditions. We take flight several times, the boat slamming back to the sea on descent. A light fixture pops out of its housing and dangles from a wire. A display of snacks at the bar crashes to the floor. The boat rocks wildly from side to side. Water splashes fiercely against the windows. I feel like I’m in a scene from the Deadliest Catch. The crew races up and down the aisles, which is a bit alarming. Kids squeal, adults look uncomfortable and white-knuckled. I eyeball the life vest under my seat as we teeter from side to side. It’s not fun. Thank God I’d remember to take a sea sickness tablet…it could have been really ugly.

We arrive promptly at Rottnest at 10:45 am. I’m relieved to be back on terra firma.

Those of us who booked rental bikes with our ferry tickets queue up to collect our equipment. It’s a long process, eating up our limited time on the island. The rental equipment is disappointing; the helmets battered, the bikes rusty, greasy and in poor condition. I struggle with my monstrous bike for the next four hours, struggling to get my leg over the bar each time I mount and dismount. Not a pretty sight.

I have high hopes of circling the entire island, 11 km long (6.8 miles) and 4.5 km (2.7 miles) at it’s widest point. I’m told this will take 3 -1/2 hours and a clockwise route has been suggested. I weave around the island, exploring, stopping frequently to take photos, which means climbing on and off that big old bike entirely too many times. Ninety minutes in I realize I’m doomed. The bike is awful, the gears don’t work, nothing I do seems to work…each hill I encounter feels like Mt Everest. I toy with returning the bike to the dock for an exchange, but I suspect the ferry workers have vanished.

I turn around and head back to the settlement. I grab a sandwich at Subway, a bottle of juice at the island shop, and settle in at a picnic table. It begins to rain.

I suddenly notice several quokkas under the tables eating leaves and food crumbs. THIS is what I came to see. Quokkas are small marsupials; they resemble small kangaroos, but their heads and faces look more like rats. Rottnest was originally called Rattenest, (meaning Rat’s Nest) by the Dutch explorers who discovered it. Today the locals just call it Rotto.

I spend the next hour or so photographing quokkas. They’re particularly thick around the settlement. Under tables and trees, in gardens, and completely unafraid of people (but please, please don’t feed them!).

I explore aimlessly, going no where in particular, stopping often for photos. I return my bike to the ferry at 3:30, it’s loaded onboard. At 4 pm the ferry leaves the dock headed back to Fremantle. I brace for another rough ride as we’ve been warned it will be ‘rolly’. I stare at a fixed television screen trying to trick my brain into thinking I’m not really onboard this rocking and rolling boat.

The ferry stops at both Northport and Fremantle, passengers disembark. It’s near empty by the time we slowly easy our way down the Swan River. We arrive at Barrack Street Jetty at 5:45 pm. I retrace my steps, walking to The Esplanade, taking a train to my suburb and then walking home, arriving just before 7 pm, almost 12 hours since I left. It’s been a long day.

Photos (199-215):

http://www.worldisround.com/articles.../photo211.html

Hi Mel,
Just looking at your wildflower photo's, yes the yellow daisy flowers are weeds, sorry! The pretty little purple ones are Fringed Lilies.

Oh dear, Melnq8, doesn't sound like you had the greatest trip to Rottnest. You've probably joined the ranks of the many who have done a day trip and wonder what the big deal is all about.

It's at its best in lovely weather of course, and in the early mornings and evenings after the day trippers have left. You can't beat the azure blue of the sea around the bays and the pleasure of leaving Thompson's Bay and finding your won little beach. It's all about lifestyle, my heart always sinks when I hear visitors are heading for Rottnest probably with some image of an island paradise in mind.

It's always been too expensive for what you get and services the "take-it-or-leave it" attitude of those with a monopoly and a captive market.

I remember a wild trip on the old Temeraire when the sides were just canvas awnings. We at last arrived in Thompson's Bay, the crew wound up the awnings and fresh air and relief wafted over us all. Then a passenger leaned over and handed me a bulging paper bag, asking me to throw it over the side. That's when <i>I</i> nearly lost my breakfast.

I suspected they might be Maudie, thanks for sorting that out.

eigasuki -

I had a feeling Rottnest was going to be less than awe inspiring, which is one reason I'd put it off for so long and why I went alone (spouse wasn't the least bit interested, in fact, he thanked me for 'not making him go').

But, I didn't think I should leave WA without having visited it at least once to form my own opinion, because, well, it's right THERE.

I can't help but think the tourists are being thoroughly had though. I mean really, Rottnest a must see? WA has so much better on offer.

Live and learn.

Well it was an...experience? At least you can say you've seen it.

Looking forward to your next adventure!

Mel, I have only been to Rottnest once myself for a weeks holiday many years ago when the kids were young, great safe place for them to bike and swim but yeah, I really don't get what the fuss is about either.

Definitely an experience Toucan..you never know until you go...

Hi Mel, Your experience of Rottnest doesn't sound as attractive as the guide book version lol.
I'd have been very frustrated with that subpar bike too but the quokkas do look cute.

I'm just checking this thread as my husband is in Perth right now. He's at the Hyatt but the conference is at the Pan Pacific. He spent today wandering around downtown area and walking along the river. He found it very quiet; will it be very different during the week do you think?

He won't have much free time this week apart from evenings (Monday to Wednesday) and he leaves on Thursday...So any recommendations for a relatively fancy expense account dinner on Wednesday? There will probably be a group of 5 or 6 and steak/fish/vegetarian options necessary to please them all.
Thanks

It'll be much different during the week sassy_cat, especially between about 9-6. The city comes alive during those hours.

I've got the perfect expense account dinner venue - we had one here ourselves a few weeks back - the food is lovely, the wine list staggering, the service excellent (very un-WA like!)
Their speciality is steak and seafood. They have a limited menu, and I was worried as I eat neither, so I called, and they offered to read the menu to me. Turns out they had a vegetarian option which suited me perfectly (not vegan though)
They seem very accommodating, so if the menu doesn't suit, I suggest calling ahead and seeing what they can do.

Balthazar
6 The Esplanade
9421 1206

http://yourrestaurants.com.au/guide/balthazar/

They don't have their own website (which is pretty common here in WA), but they're right in the city, an easy walk from most areas in the CBD. He'll need to book - this place is tiny and fills up.

Well DH confirms that the city has come to life and all those closed coffee bars that he walked past yesterday are open today!
Thank you for the restaurant recommendation I've passed on the details. It sounds perfect and as the 'vegetarian' will eat some fish dishes I'm sure there will be something for everyone.

If he goes to Balthazar, let me know what he thinks.

As it turns out DH has several dinner invitations he can't refuse and the venues have already been chosen but he has booked a table at Balthazar for lunch tomorrow.

I'll let you know how it goes!

DH highly recommends the date pudding and the filet at Balthazar. A colleague enjoyed duck and a zucchini/ courgette stir-fry (as described by my husband who doesn't tend to go into much detail when describing food!). Bill was $110 AUS for 2.

Dinner was meant to be at Little Caesars (an award winning pizza place?) but was cancelled as the sessions over ran. My husband was content as he was still full from lunch!

Thanks again for the recco.

Oh good, glad they enjoyed it. Problem with lunch, you can't take advantage of that awesome wine list!

Little Caesars? Really?

Yes, I agree about the wine list but my husband doesn't drink!

He took the train to Cottesloe beach early Wednesday morning had an enjoyable mooch around for a couple of hours and tomorrow morning with what is left of his free time he's hoping to see some kangaroos.

Oh and he ended up eating at Little Caesars last night. He was unimpressed but polite

Huh. I'll have to ask around, see what that's all about.

I hope he enjoyed his short trip.

Yes, he's enjoyed himself but it was a busy week and he had limited free time. No future visits planned but it's likely he'll be back sometime next year.

31) Exploring Roleystone…

The much-dreaded Western Australia summer is within spitting distance; our hiking days are numbered. A beautiful spring morning in mid-November finds us fighting rush hour traffic on the Tonkin, Albany and Brookton Highways, headed to the Perth Hills, where we arrive an hour after leaving home. Our destination is Roleystone, a small community set amongst orchards and bushland, and unfortunately, the site of Perth’s most devastating fire in history, which occurred in February of this year.

From Brookton Highway we turn onto Croyden and ease our way through woodsy surroundings to our first stop of the day, Genesis in the Hills, a vegetarian restaurant I’ve been told about. We’re the only customers; we enjoy breakfast on their outdoor covered patio. Bill opts for the Shakshuka, two free range eggs baked in a frying pan on a bed of tomatoes, onions, halumi cheese and herbs, served with sourdough bread ($17.50). The carnivore is not impressed. I choose the ricotta pancakes served with ricotta cream and seasonal fruits ($14.50). They’re good, as are the piping hot flat whites.

We next seek out nearby Araluen Botanic Park, pay our $4 per person admission and spend the next two hours exploring the manicured lawns, flower-filled gardens and heritage buildings. It’s beautiful here. We walk most of the pathways, watch the ducks and just generally soak up the peaceful ambiance of the park. We’re too late for the tulips, but there are still flowers everywhere, including some lovely roses.

http://www.araluenbotanicpark.com.au/aboutf.html

We backtrack on Brookton Highway, make a left on Soldier and admire the big homes and steep driveways as we work our way to our final destination, Churchman Brook Dam. Here we walk up to and across the dam wall for some nice views of the reservoir. I was under the impression there were walk trails here, but we only find one short track that leads from the dam wall down along the parameter, which we follow through the bush and then back down to the picnic area. It’s just as well, the flies have grown tiresome…the hills are alive with snakes and flies.

http://www.watercorporation.com.au/D/dams_churchman.cfm

Photos here, 217-232: http://www.worldisround.com/articles.../photo217.html

32) A visitor from Up Over…

Relocation is looming, our days in Perth are numbered.

A good friend from the US (TJ) sees her last chance to visit us while we’re in Australia, and books a ‘detour to Perth’ while on a business trip to India. She’s energetic, but time poor, so I take the liberty of putting together a three day itinerary based upon what I feel are some of Perth's highlights, including some places that we've come to love during our time here. For practical reasons, they're sorted by area. We very much look forward to showing off our adopted city.

Friday - Swan Valley

We arrive at Caversham Wildlife Park as soon as they open at 9 am, pay our $23 per person admission and spend the next three hours exploring the park. Most Yanks want to see Australian wildlife, so I reckon this is the place to go. We roam the grounds, wander amongst the tame kangaroos, watch a sheep shearing demonstration, pet the wombat, pose with the koalas, etc. TJ is pleased as punch.

We then work our way deeper into the Swan Valley, first stopping at Talijancich for a taste of their fabulous fortified wines and to check out their new tasting room. Unfortunately, I’m the designated driver, so I can only drool as Bill and TJ oooh and ahhh over Talijancich’s incredible Liqueur Verdelho, Shiraz, White Liqueur and Shiraz Solaro. A fortified novice, TJ is gobsmacked with this elixir of the gods. It seems we’ve got another convert.

http://www.taliwine.com.au/home.php

We finally tear ourselves away and drive to our favorite Friday lunch venue, Lamont’s. Bill and I fell in love with Lamont’s the first time we stumbled in. They have a tapas style menu, and the food is consistently good. The wine isn't too shabby either (and Scotty is a kick in the pants).

After Bill and TJ sample the wine, we settle in for an alfresco feast. Today we share the pork rillette, with cornichon caper salsa & crostini ($14.50), a goats cheese & caramelized onion crepe with lemon oil ($14.50), smoked chicken breast, raisins, & green beans in a Chermoula yogurt sauce ($15.50), King prawns, avocado & rocket in a fresh mango and chili salsa ($16.50) and shaved Bresola, crispy leek & orange in a soy sesame dressing ($15.50). Every bite is a flavor explosion; it’s excellent.

Not wanting to overlook that other popular Aussie beverage, we soon find ourselves at Feral Brewing, where I look on as Bill and TJ share a beer sampler of their hand crafted award winning beer ($16.50).

http://www.feralbrewing.com.au/

We next seek out Battistessa Studio, on the recommendation of a fellow travel forum member. It doesn’t appear to be open, but as we wander about looking for the door, the artist himself appears and leads us into the dark, dusty recesses of his workshop, filled to the brim with all manner of rescued materials that he plans to turn into art. His ironwork is nothing short of amazing, as is the quirky artist. We spend the next hour or so in deep conversation with Antonio, discussing everything from art to travel to that most dangerous of all topics, American politics. At the risk of sounding like an old hippy, I can only describe Antonio as a complete and utter trip.

Days are short in the Swan Valley, and we find ourselves having to choose between Sandalford and the Margaret River Chocolate Company. TJ goes for the sugar, and we’re soon gathered around a fat slice of chocolate cake which we tuck into with three forks.

It’s been a very full and filling day.

Saturday - Fremantle & CBD

We’re out the door at half past eight and driving to the nearest train station, where we park and catch a train to the Esplanade. From there we walk the 10 minutes to Barrack Street Jetty and board the 9:45 am Capt Cook Cruise to Fremantle ($25 each). This 75 minute cruise is an ideal introduction to Perth; anyone visiting us is likely to find themselves on it.

http://www.captaincookcruises.com.au/

We claim the only three seats on the outdoor deck and are treated to a fantastic view of the Perth city skyline as we pull away from the jetty. As we float down the Swan River the captain fills us in on what we’re looking at…huge amounts of money.

Although I’ve taken this cruise many times, the mansions on Millionaire’s Row and the wealth in this city still boggles my mind. I’m also consistently amazed at the challenges that face home builders through here. How they manage to squeeze in yet more humongous houses onto tiny sloping, exorbitantly priced lots that seem to fall directly into the river is a mystery; the building costs must be astronomical. I briefly wonder what it feels like to be a tourist attraction. “Off to your right is the home of mining mogul Melnq8, which last sold for 56 million dollars in 2010. Just last year she added a boathouse to store her six million dollar yacht, Nouveau-Riche.”

Yeah, that’ll happen.

We arrive in the port city of Fremantle just past 11 am and wander into the nearby E-shed markets; a mish-mash of stalls peddling food, clothing and all manner of junk, most of it imported. TJ has never heard of a didgeridoo, so I feel compelled to take her to Didgeridoo Breath on Market Street, where she not only learns what they are, but tries her hand at playing one. She also finds some Aussie made boomerangs to take home.

http://www.didgeridoobreath.com/

We wander the streets and admire the unique architecture. I suddenly have a new appreciation for Freo.

http://www.fremantlewesternaustralia...chitecture.htm

We happen upon an Australian Timber store, which we thoroughly investigate before working our way to Little Creatures Brewery, a Freo institution. This is apparently THE place to be on a Saturday afternoon; it’s absolutely packed. We settle in for some beer, nibbles and good conversation.

https://www.littlecreatures.com.au/

Stomachs happy, we walk to the Fremantle station and catch a train back to the city, disembarking at the end of the line, Perth City. From there it’s a 10 minute stroll to Bill’s office, where we take in the views of the Swan River from the 13th floor. I don’t know how anyone gets any work done up here.

Our energy is waning, but we forge on to Kings Park, making the arduous trek up the aptly named Mount Street. Business in the park is brisk; people are milling about everywhere, including several wedding parties taking photos in the late afternoon light. We admire the fantastic views and check the progress of the giant boab tree which was trucked in 3,200 kilometers from the Kimberley in 2008, arriving in Perth about the time we did. I’m happy to report that the boab is doing remarkably well, it’s a survivor that one.

http://www.bgpa.wa.gov.au/horticultu...the-giant-boab

We make it to the Lotterywest Federation Walkway mere minutes before it closes for the day, where we walk amongst the treetops surrounded by more glorious views.

http://www.bgpa.wa.gov.au/kings-park...ration-walkway

Officially out of steam, we retreat down Mount Street, walk to the Esplanade station and take a train back to where we started. Whew. This being a tourist is hard work!