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2nd Thoughts WCoast SI Drive - (cleaner copy)
First, a big congrats to everyone who was quoted and now gets a prize! Guess sometimes a good deed does go unpunished
or maybe not, here's the ? Given the popularity of driving between Queenstown and Greymouth, now that you've done it what, if anything would you've changed? For example: How many days do you think the "perfect drive" should last? Where would you stop over en route, either overnight or to spend more time seeing the sights? Is there a hotel or restaurant that you'd love to revist? Alternatively, what do you now wished you had passed over? (activity, sight, hotel or food place) Other 2nd thoughts, now that you're all the wiser? I've read and learned alot from the many trip reports but was hoping this ? might trigger a new perspective on an oft traveled route. thanks |
Okay, I'll bite.
I've made the drive from Greymouth to Queenstown six or seven times now. If I could do it again with no time or money constraints, I'd probably drive it over the course of a week or longer, so I could explore every nook and cranny. I'd spend a night or two in Hoki, not because Hoki is interesting, but because there are trails there I haven't yet walked. I might also call in at every tiny town I came to, such as Ross and Hari-Hari, not because these towns interest me, but because the surroundings do. I'd probably revisit Okarito, re-walking tracks I've walked before, and perhaps seeing the area in a different light since reading The Bone People by Keri Hulme. I'd spend quality time at both Franz Josef and Fox Glacier, finding every trail I could and re-walking to the terminal face of both. Perhaps I might even attempt a glacier climb with a tour company, as I've only done the heli-hike and freedom walked in the past. I'd definitely spend a few nights at the Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge. I'd also spend more time near Hasst, detouring to Jackson Bay and walking the Wharekai Te Kau track, among others. I'd also want to better explore the area between Haast Pass and Makarora, walking every path I could find. Not many services out this way, so I'd either need a tent, or I'd need to drive from Makarora or Haast each day. Looks like I've overshot my initial estimate of a week - clearly I could spend some quality time in this area, and we've not even discussed the west coast north of Greymouth! I don't associate the West Coast with great hotels and restaurants. This area is all about wilderness and natural beauty. In retrospect, I would have passed over several food establishments, but I wouldn't have passed over a single activity or sight. I've seen the West Coast many times, and it still draws me in. My musings won't help you much if you're planning a trip though - the average traveler just doesn't have time to call in at every spot on the road, and weather can often be a major factor. |
Hi, Melnq8
Another person who loves the West Coast - yay! Jackson Bay is definitely worth the detour, even if just to have freshly caught-and- cooked fish and chips, the best I have ever tasted in my many years! We walked a track, possibly the track you mentioned, which leads to the coast and nesting place of Fiordland Crested penguins, and had the company of a native wood-pigeon for part of the way. Lots of tiny native fish in the little streamlets beside the track. I was excited to see my first live yellowhead bird in that area. We also enjoyed deviating right up to the top of the West Coast as far as you can drive, to where the Heaphy track begins, and whose name escapes me right at this moment. And as you say, all those lovely little tracks to deviate onto with exploration in mind. We travel in that region every year spending approximately a week based in Greymouth and Westport, and when not visiting relatives we are still able to find new places to explore. Definitely need at least two + weeks for the West Coast. |
Hi there dotty! I have to agree with you that 2+ weeks would be even better. It's a shame that so many visitors to the SI really see so little of it - as you well know, there are loads of side trips and hidden gems. All one need do is follow the side roads and they'll be surprised at what they might find. I envy those of you who live in such a beautiful country.
The town you refer to at the top of the West Coast, where the Heaphy Track begins is Karamea. We spent three nights there on a 28 day visit to the SI a few years back. Really friendly folks up there and some interesting caves. Be sure to visit the Honeycomb caves if you ever find yourself up that way. An ideal trip for someone with an interest in the West Coast and plenty of time, might be to begin at Karamea and work their way down to Jackson Bay and then inland to towards Lake Hawea, Wanaka and Queenstown. Geez, wish I'd thought of that earlier when I was planning our return trip in March. Instead we'll be spending 2 weeks further south, exploring the Catlins, Te Anau and the QT/Glenorchy area. |
I appreciate all the replies on this (and the original thread).
Well it looks like I will have 5 days (1/13-18) for the drive from Queenstown to Greymouth where I'll pick up the TranzAlpine on 1/18 to CHC. Ideally, I'd like to: 1.Take 1 or both (1 overnight) Doubtful/Milford cruises 2. See the Te Anau glow worm caves (since i'm not getting to Waitomo) 3. Spend two nights at the Franz or Fox and do the heli-hike. I think that still leaves me with a little bit of time/flexibility as to where to spend a day/night? Ideas??? How far a detour is Jackson Bay? Alternatively, I read some threads that suggest spending more time around Greymouth. If I do that, can anyone suggest a place to sleep? fwiw, I'm still going solo in case that matters and yes i know i need to book my stays at the glaciers, etc and will do so asap once i nail down where i'll be on which day <s> as always MANY THANKS!!!</s> |
There are a full day of short day walks between Queenstown/Wanaka and the glaciers, so I'd allow a full day for that drive. My two favorites were the walk to Munro's Beach, and the Blue Pools. The salmon farm is also a convenient stop.
Around the glaciers, in addition to the hike to /on one or both, there's a scenic walk around Lake Matheson (best in the morning before the wind starts up), and you can drive out to the Okarito Trig for another day hike. Up farther north, there's a glow worm dell if you are in Hokitika at night, a side trip to the Punaikaki (sp) rocks, and you can view a seal? sea lion? colony at Cape Foulwind (I don't think it was named after the stench from the colony). Then add in your time around Te Anau and the Sounds. If you're driving, you might as well take the day hike up to Key Summit. |
Wow , I really appreciate the walk ideas.
So, how would your suggestions breakdown in terms of the number of nights spent in which towns? |
You'll need to subtract the number of nights and days in Te Anau and one of the Fiordland sounds. (You realize it's an out and back trip, right?) Even a day trip takes a full day and basically eats up 2 of your nights.
One day to reach the glaciers, with stops. Two nights at the glaciers, to allow for a full day and possible delays on your heliflight. If the weather is good you can add the side trip to Okarito and do the Lake Matheson hike. The final day you'll have time to reach Hokitika and Greymouth. Depending on your schedule, you can do the trip up to Punakaiki or even spend the night in Hokitika so you can see the glowworm dell if you missed them in Te Anau. |
Looks like instead of ZQN, I'm now driving from Te Anau to Fox Glacier..would you still suggest to do that drive in 1 day?
If I were to brake it in half where would you suggest I overnight? (Wanaka, Haast, somewhere else?) thanks and Happy Holidays to all |
Te Anau to Fox in one day? Yikes! I drove from Fox to Wanaka in one day and that felt long. The drive from Fox through Haast is narrow and windy, thus it takes a lot longer than the mileage would suggest. A stop in Wanaka would certainly make sense. Otherwise, you could just drive and see how far you make it from Te Anau.
Between Wanaka and Fox, I highly recommend stopping and hiking (20 minute return) to the "Blue Pools", they were spectacular! (But wear insect repellant for those pesky sandflies!). Happy New Year! |
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