A Village Bike Ride

Grabbing a few free bicycles after lunch, a “dare devil” group of us head off on a bike ride through the local village. With “Miss Saigon” and “My Blue Bonnet” I am hoping we will blend in like locals.

Crossing a bridge I get a different perspective of the Mekong as I watch more boat traffic move up and down this significant waterway. One boat filled with fresh bananas passes beneath me, its motor making that unique sputtering “putt, putt” sound.

Navigating a village road that sometimes follows a branch of the Mekong and is lined with trees is so relaxing that it just makes me feel like singing. Now I know how Kermit felt doing the same thing through Central Park.


Video:http://youtu.be/HqnOEPoLxyY

The Next Vietnam Idol

Our tour of the Mekong Delta ends with an unexpected discovery. As we cruise the river one last time we are serenaded by possibly the next Vietnam Idol.

Thirty minutes later we are back where our tour begins and we are given an option for our return to Ho Chi Minh City. If as a group we are willing to pay a few extra Dongs we can take the Express Way back to the city and save about thirty minutes driving.

In a way I save everyone from having to make that decision and I hope they did not mind getting back earlier than planned.


Video:http://youtu.be/UMgAPYHLqBg

Beautiful Artist And Artwork

Our second day in Ho Chi Minh City is planned to start a little later than our first day. This time we have the opportunity to enjoy a splendid breakfast at Tan Hai Long which is included in the price of our room. Delicious fried rice, meats along with a bowl of fresh soup with shrimp and hot peppers and I am stuffed to begin the day.

Today, we are headed to visit Cu Chi Tunnels on a very affordable tour about US$8 per person. As with our tour the previous day we are picked up along with others and given another perspective on the history of Vietnam.

As we did yesterday, we make a stop at factory/tourist attraction where disable students use their talents to create some beautiful and awesome artwork. These students are just some of the victims of the American military use of “Agent Orange” here during the Vietnam war.

I have an admiration for them as I watch them at work using items like eggshells to produce masterpieces. It is heart wrenching to see some of insane effects of war on innocent people generations removed from the conflict.


Video:http://youtu.be/lZPdy9yUuQk

Intro To Cu Chi Tunnels

Our introduction to Cu Chi Tunnels begins by watching a propaganda type video on how the Vietnamese fighters including women and children where able to use simple tactics to overcome high tech US military attacks against them.

One effective deterrent was the multilevel tunnel built here. The first level for accommodation, the second level for bomb protection and a third level that provided a means of escape. There were also booby traps made from bamboo built inside the tunnels. A simple but very well designed system that served its purpose well.

Not far from watching this video we are given the opportunity to experience a part of this tunnel system as a well hidden entrance is revealed. It is a tight squeeze for a two hundred pounder with broad shoulders.


Video:http://youtu.be/51x8ZquIRcI

A Cu Chi Tunnel Experience

With my hands above my head along with some coaching I slip my body and broad (ok, fat) shoulders into a hole in the ground that I am sure was designed for someone half my size. With two others I have just entered a part of the Cu Chi Tunnel system that has remained pretty much the same way it was from it's origination.

Once a cover that hides the entrance to the tunnel is closed behind us we are pitched into complete darkness that is darker than a moonless night. It is only out of sense of being “macho” and having others with me that I am able to suppress some of my rising fear. A moment for all of us to pose for pictures and the flash of the camera reveals what a tight mess we have gotten ourselves into.

Following the light of an iPhone, its is a crawl on hands and knees over wet leaves as we navigate towards a promised exit. At one point our leader turns a corner and we are again pitched into complete darkness. His words in the distance that he can see the exit is comforting and I begin to slow my breathing.

Although we have only traveled about fifty feet or so it not something I would want to do on any regular basis except if my freedom and life depended on it.


Video:http://youtu.be/kpDFY5pMQEI

not your average tourist experience, DMT!

cudos to you for trying it; I think I'd have passed.

annhig,

It was scary fun.. My first experience being claustaphobic. I'm glad it was brief in distance although it felt like an eternity in time.

Cu Chi Tunnel Tour

Our tour of Cu Chi Tunnel continues with a painful reminder of the war and the terrible fate that many suffered here.

Simplistic in design, many of Vietnamese tools of war led to the unimaginable painful deaths of their enemies.

Our first examination of one of these tools is a trap door that leads to a fall onto a bed of precision sharpen bamboo spears about six feet below the surface.

Next we are shown the well camouflaged ventilation system for the tunnel network. What looks like an ant hill is not an ant hill after all.

Here, the destruction craters of B-52 bombs and shooting trenches still remain after almost 40 years. For me, it is somewhat surreal as I remember scenes from documentary films and movies showing young men fighting and dying probably in the same trenches I am standing mere feet away from.

Indeed, “War Is Hell”.

One interesting thing we are told is that dogs were trained to detect American soldiers presence near the tunnels by the smell of American shampoo.

Crossing the grounds here, we see other entrances used in the tunnel system, bigger openings for women and children.

Nearby just the frame of an American tank destroyed in 1970 remains. Making the most of limited resources, the Vietnamese used captured military equipment and unexploded bombs to create additional hardware and weapons for their cause.

Our next stop is what most people come here for but should only do if one can comply with the rules that make the experience possible. The most important rule I think is that one must not have fear of darkness or narrow spaces.

This part of the tunnel has been renovated somewhat for touring purposes and although it is about 200m long there are several exit points.

Even after earlier completing a non renovated portion of the tunnel system, I find this part of the system more uncomfortable and difficult to navigate. For me, it requires hunching over and I give up about 30m into it.

I miss my first experience of the tunnel here, crawling on my hands and knees over wet leaves in almost pitch black darkness.


Video:http://youtu.be/vEZZJryHm2k

thank you DMB for an insight into a tourist attraction that few people here are likely to see.

i would include myself in that category.

Cu Chi Gun Range

Not since taking an ROTC class in college many moons ago have I pulled the trigger on anything except a few water pistols. For about US$1 a bullet, I have the opportunity to fire off a few rounds on anything from an American made M-16 to a Russian AK-47.

At Cu Chi Gun Range there are available many of the guns used in the Vietnam war that with some simple instructions you can use to take your best shot. I chose an old style Russian gun and although it was fun I think I am better at shooting water instead of bullets.

Video:http://youtu.be/D0vQbrAsv7A

Who told you that's a Russian gun another tout? The gun that the person was seen shooting in the video is an old US made M1 or M2 carbine. Possibly WW 2 or Korean war vintage. The last gun shown in the video, with the still frame, is a US M16 A1 Vietnam war vintage.

Hanuman,

Glad you are back (or maybe you never left). I missed you :(

Words You Can Shop, Buy Maybe

The opportunity to learn more about Vietnamese culture continues even as we make our way back to Ho Chi Minh City. Although I am not an avid shopper, I listen and ask questions as our tour guide gives us some tips for bargaining.

One word that we learn to be careful with is “Mac-w aah” as in the wrong situation you might be looking at a right upper cut coming your way.

“Mac-w aah” can be taken as offensive so might want to practice your “bob and weave” or be quick with a “Sin loi” which means sorry it is my fault.


Video:http://youtu.be/mkn-ItbStT0

American Military Equipment

Back in Ho Chi Minh City, we take a walk over to a museum that we are told over it's history has had many names. On the grounds of the War Remnants Museums are what I consider the less heart tugging reminders of the conflict here.

As someone that has been fascinated with aviation from my early childhood, I am always in awe of flying machines and the miracle of flight. To touch a UH-1 helicopter, the aircraft that symbolized for me more than any other aircraft the US presence in Vietnam is simply a cool experience.

For a moment I withdraw the war aspect of these machines and admire those that designed and operated them. Their courage and sacrifices should not be forgotten.


Video:http://youtu.be/xG7Yc6HdJIk

The Cruelties Of War

No doubt the most heart wrenching and soul searching moments of my visit to Vietnam comes as I leave the outside displays at the War Remnants Museum and venture inside. Here, I get to see some of the historical horrors and cruelties of war.

From tiger cages where prisoners were kept like animals to the point of developing unbelievable deformities to the guillotine and the use of chemical weapons, our inhumanity to each other can reach a point beyond insanity.

In viewing the displays here the exhibits are weighted mostly to the U.S injustice here but one would be naive to think it did not happen on both sides of the battle field. I am sure the displays at Cu Chi Tunnel only give a hint of what some U.S service men suffered on the other side.

In any event, it is a tough pill to swallow seeing some of the exhibits and it does give me a sense of shame for some of our misguided policies here during the war. One of the most lingering affects of the war here was American use of Agent Orange. Even many of our service men and their offspring such as a girl born without full arms have been forever damaged by this chemical weapon.

However, it is nice to see that areas of Vietnam that were once destroyed are now thriving communities and cities. The before and after comparison are ones you like to see as probably they show us that maybe we have all learned lessons from the mistakes that have occurred here.


Video:http://youtu.be/ai7jOiTPBuI

DBMT - thank you for your last post.

food for thought indeed.

Some people might find this useful but probably not the OP or his fan. Most, if not all, of the items on display at the war remnants museum were actually ARVN or VNAF equipments and rebranded as US military for show or propaganda!

Hanuman,

assuming I'm the "fan" you speak of so disparagingly, I know nothing of Vietnam save what I read, [not just here], and i also assume that the OP is posting what he saw and read on his trip.

instead of making snide posts, perhaps you'd care to set out simply and clearly what s/he's got wrong?

annhig,

I thought I did that already. First it was the incorrect identification of a US gun as a Russian gun. Now it's identifying weapons of the South Vietnam arm forces as those of the US. Very clear and I'm not being "snide".

I thought I did that already. First it was the incorrect identification of a US gun as a Russian gun. Now it's identifying weapons of the South Vietnam arm forces as those of the US. Very clear and I'm not being "snide".>>

as the OP is clearly referring to the information he has gleaned on his travels, whether accurate or not, I fail to see how he can be held responsible for it. your tone was terse to the point of rude.

this is the remark that i thought was snide and unnecessary:

<<Some people might find this useful but probably not the OP or his fan>>

looking at your posts on other threads, you seem quite capable of having a civilised exchange with other posters; what have I or the OP done to deserve less?

well thank you, Hanuman for the elucidation.

that explains why you and the OP have "history" but I don't understand why you choose to drag me into it.

Hanuman,

It's "Post Time" but it looks like you will be running this race alone. I hope the others have not been put out to pasture or worst yet made into glue. Indeed a sticky situation.

I miss them too :(

Here's a link you might find helpful and might want to add your expert insight to :)

http://www.fodors.com/community/fodo...m#last-comment

A Saigon Secret

It is not until our last night in Vietnam that I discover what maybe one of Ho Chi Minh City's best kept secrets. While walking to the Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theater we stumble upon something sweet that is as simple as ABC.

A quick calculation and I determine that if tomorrow I walk to Cambodia instead of taking the bus, I can indulge in a few sinful pleasures and not even gain a pound!


Video:http://youtu.be/bVHS0lxbVJ4

A Wet Puppet

An easy walk from our hotel is The Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theater almost a must if you visit Saigon. This is a show that gives an entertaining presentation of Vietnamese life and culture in an interesting form of storytelling.

The art of water puppetry has a steep traditional in local Vietnamese culture and is connected with the spiritual life of the Vietnamese people.

For me, attending any theater production it is always amazing to see the talents of the performers no matter the art form. As a person that never mastered the recorder, I always appreciate this.

The Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theater has several shows every evening that last about 50 minutes without an intermission. For about US$7.50 per person it is a worthwhile outing in Ho Chi Minh City.


Video:http://youtu.be/8Ao7hrwZcm8

annhig,

You're welcome. My apologies for the "sideshow" :(

Good-bye!

It is our last morning in Vietnam and in few minutes we'll take a walk to a bus that will be taking us to Cambodia.

As I recall our time here, one of the fun if not crazy things we did while here was simply crossing a main street. Making multiple crossings and not being a “Hit” in some strange way made us feel apart of Vietnam.

If you come to Vietnam it is definitely something you may have to contend with. One piece of advise, just keep walking and I hope you will enjoy Vietnam and its people as much as we did.

Thanks, Vietnam.


Video:http://youtu.be/w5jLYG2R6kw

I honestly don't think that Rome is any better - and Budapest was pretty hairy too - they seemed to think that a pedestrian crossing was an invitation to go faster.

thanks for sharing your experience of Vietnam with us.

I enjoyed your well done report and hope that I can find more from you.
We're thinking of going.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and the videos. Nothing better than a visual.

annhig,

I think it must be fun for drivers in countries like that especially when they see a tourist trying to cross the street.

Glad to have you along to share my trip report. Next up, Cambodia in between all my other postings while on my current adventure :)

cybor,

Thanks for following along. Although learning about some aspects of the war there was heart wrenching, our visit to Vietnam was wonderful.

I will soon make postings on Cambodia which was also a part of our trip to Southeast Asia last summer.

More of my travel adventures and pictures are at:

http://dmbtraveler195.blogspot.com/

I hope you will also get to enjoy Vietnam :)

saigon always hot hot ....hihiihh

DMB, loving both your adventurous travel style and original, vignette-style writing. Even would say, among all the well-written TRs here on Fodor's, your is a 'writerly' voice.

TaraM,

Thanks :)

Great trip report, with narrative and videos, and the side benefit of point and counterpoint that enriches so much of our time on fodors. We are visiting my son in Saigon (he just started teaching English there) and we're also seeing Luang Prabang. We leave in two weeks. How did you arrange your day trip on the Mekong? It looked like a really good tour. I'll also look for your blog.

santamonica,

Thanks for nice comment. I hope you enjoy Saigon and Luang Prabang as much as we did.

We arranged our Mekong Delta tour from one of the local hotels located behind ours, "Tan Hai Long"... For us it was unbelievably inexpensive. It was not the "Big Greyhound.. Comfy" type tour bus but it worked for us and was definitely an intimate experience.

I got a little nervous to try the "Snake Wine".. but maybe you will and tell us all about... I think if I had not seen the jar first and/or spent too much time thinking about it.. I would have.. Now I wish I did :(

Great report. Loved your descriptions and personal impressions and insights. Thanks so much for posting. Looking forward to reading about Cambodia.