Thoughts on 2-3 week Myanmar itinerary? And local artists/galleries?
Apr 9th, 2015, 06:38 AM
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Thoughts on 2-3 week Myanmar itinerary? And local artists/galleries?
My wife and I are planning a trip to Myanmar/Burma next Feb. We figure on going for about 2-3 weeks - we are not time-constrained. In general, we prefer to travel to fewer places and spend more time in each (and include down time or gaps for just hanging out in a local coffee shop or equivalent). We tend to focus on history, culture and art, and we like to bike and do day hikes. I’m from India originally, so tracing the threads of historical Indian connections with Myanmar would also be interesting.
Our initial thoughts are as follows:
Bagan: 4 full days (5 nights). I’m an “old stones” nut (I happily spent 10 days in Angkor Wat); we’d also do some biking and maybe visit Mt. Popa.
Inle Lake: 4 full days (5 nights), including trips around the lake, to the Sagar area, a bike trip (maybe even to the winery!) and perhaps a hike
Kentung 3-4 nights, depending on how much hiking we want to do
Yangon: A couple of days on the way in and out, probably also to hunt out some art as mentioned in my question below
I have a few questions:
(1) Is it worth adding a couple of nights at Kalaw if we’re already visiting Kentung (which features hikes to ethnic villages)? Not sure if the hill station vibe or any other aspect of the town is worth it by itself, apart from the hiking.
(2) We’re skipping Mandalay since many people seem to have been underwhelmed by it. In reading about it, the things that look interesting to us are the boat trip to Mingun, the U Bein teak bridge and the atmosphere at Sagaing Hill. But doesn’t seem to be enough to justify a trip there and the additional logistics/cost of flying in and out. Any comments on this?
(3) If we wanted to add a couple of days to just hang out, would Bagan or Inle Lake be a better place to do so, in terms of general attractiveness and availability of decent restaurants?
(4) Any other place that is a do-not-miss in your opinion (and where the points of interest would not be primarily pagoda-based, since we’d have had plenty of that)? We also don’t want to go to a place specifically for beach time.
(5) Any suggestions for particularly good history or art museums/collections? Also, we enjoy buying contemporary art from local artists (usually paintings that can be rolled up, but we've been known to lug sculpture around), so any ideas on specific galleries or neighborhoods would be very welcome.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Our initial thoughts are as follows:
Bagan: 4 full days (5 nights). I’m an “old stones” nut (I happily spent 10 days in Angkor Wat); we’d also do some biking and maybe visit Mt. Popa.
Inle Lake: 4 full days (5 nights), including trips around the lake, to the Sagar area, a bike trip (maybe even to the winery!) and perhaps a hike
Kentung 3-4 nights, depending on how much hiking we want to do
Yangon: A couple of days on the way in and out, probably also to hunt out some art as mentioned in my question below
I have a few questions:
(1) Is it worth adding a couple of nights at Kalaw if we’re already visiting Kentung (which features hikes to ethnic villages)? Not sure if the hill station vibe or any other aspect of the town is worth it by itself, apart from the hiking.
(2) We’re skipping Mandalay since many people seem to have been underwhelmed by it. In reading about it, the things that look interesting to us are the boat trip to Mingun, the U Bein teak bridge and the atmosphere at Sagaing Hill. But doesn’t seem to be enough to justify a trip there and the additional logistics/cost of flying in and out. Any comments on this?
(3) If we wanted to add a couple of days to just hang out, would Bagan or Inle Lake be a better place to do so, in terms of general attractiveness and availability of decent restaurants?
(4) Any other place that is a do-not-miss in your opinion (and where the points of interest would not be primarily pagoda-based, since we’d have had plenty of that)? We also don’t want to go to a place specifically for beach time.
(5) Any suggestions for particularly good history or art museums/collections? Also, we enjoy buying contemporary art from local artists (usually paintings that can be rolled up, but we've been known to lug sculpture around), so any ideas on specific galleries or neighborhoods would be very welcome.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Apr 9th, 2015, 08:10 AM
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Sounds like a great trip! A few thoughts:
1. I'd choose Kentung over Kalaw as it is more off the beaten track.
2. We skipped Mandalay our first trip. On our second trip we enjoyed Sagaing, but I'm not sure it's worth another stop for you.
3. Availability of decent restaurants, go to Thailand. I'm only partially joking. We did find some good food, but you have to look for it. If you want restaurants, Yangon is the place with the most options.
4. The one other place I'd highly recommend in Mrauk U. It is a hassle to get there, but it's an amazing place. We stayed at the Mrauk U Princess which was wonderful - very atmospheric - and this was a place where the food was excellent.
5. For local artists, the Strand has a gallery, long considered the best in Yangon. The woman who runs the gallery can also give you additional suggestions for where to see and purchase local art.
I have reports here on our two trips to Burma (click on my name to find my trip reports) but perhaps more helpful to you at this point would be photos: www.marlandc.com
1. I'd choose Kentung over Kalaw as it is more off the beaten track.
2. We skipped Mandalay our first trip. On our second trip we enjoyed Sagaing, but I'm not sure it's worth another stop for you.
3. Availability of decent restaurants, go to Thailand. I'm only partially joking. We did find some good food, but you have to look for it. If you want restaurants, Yangon is the place with the most options.
4. The one other place I'd highly recommend in Mrauk U. It is a hassle to get there, but it's an amazing place. We stayed at the Mrauk U Princess which was wonderful - very atmospheric - and this was a place where the food was excellent.
5. For local artists, the Strand has a gallery, long considered the best in Yangon. The woman who runs the gallery can also give you additional suggestions for where to see and purchase local art.
I have reports here on our two trips to Burma (click on my name to find my trip reports) but perhaps more helpful to you at this point would be photos: www.marlandc.com
Apr 10th, 2015, 04:56 AM
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Excellent suggestions, Kathie - thanks! We’ll make sure to speak to the woman at the art gallery at the Strand - good lead.
Since your post, I’ve been checking out Mrauk U - despite the logistics and the number of days involved in seeing Mrauk U, I’m getting beguiled by Cheryl’s amazing photos, your trip report and the reviews on tripadvisor. I’d imagine the difficulty in getting there is what’s keeping it less crowded - but often makes for memorable travel experiences. I still fondly remember visiting Mae Hong Son and the Golden Triangle environs in Thailand 30 years ago when it was just a small crossroads - and the driver on our overnight bus journey was watching soft porn on the bus video as he was driving...
Given the time taken to get to Mrauk U, I was thinking of taking a little extra time there to take in the atmosphere of the surrounding temples. I saw your conclusion in your trip report that 2 days would have sufficed to see the major temples. If we didn’t spend a day going to the Chin villages (I need to check out the zoolike aspect you mentioned, because I’ve seen other reports where people have had good experiences), would you say 3-4 full days (i.e. in addition to the travel time) is too much, from the point of view of getting cabin fever in a small town with probably marginal food and not much else to do? We’d also need to add a night or two depending on boat/flight schedules and whether we need to overnight in Sittwe, but we have the luxury of time. Part of it will also depend of course on how expensive it is to stay there reasonably comfortably - I saw there are cheaper options, but do you recall roughly how much the Princess cost? (I didn’t have luck pricing it up on a couple of hotel booking engines.)
Since your post, I’ve been checking out Mrauk U - despite the logistics and the number of days involved in seeing Mrauk U, I’m getting beguiled by Cheryl’s amazing photos, your trip report and the reviews on tripadvisor. I’d imagine the difficulty in getting there is what’s keeping it less crowded - but often makes for memorable travel experiences. I still fondly remember visiting Mae Hong Son and the Golden Triangle environs in Thailand 30 years ago when it was just a small crossroads - and the driver on our overnight bus journey was watching soft porn on the bus video as he was driving...
Given the time taken to get to Mrauk U, I was thinking of taking a little extra time there to take in the atmosphere of the surrounding temples. I saw your conclusion in your trip report that 2 days would have sufficed to see the major temples. If we didn’t spend a day going to the Chin villages (I need to check out the zoolike aspect you mentioned, because I’ve seen other reports where people have had good experiences), would you say 3-4 full days (i.e. in addition to the travel time) is too much, from the point of view of getting cabin fever in a small town with probably marginal food and not much else to do? We’d also need to add a night or two depending on boat/flight schedules and whether we need to overnight in Sittwe, but we have the luxury of time. Part of it will also depend of course on how expensive it is to stay there reasonably comfortably - I saw there are cheaper options, but do you recall roughly how much the Princess cost? (I didn’t have luck pricing it up on a couple of hotel booking engines.)
Apr 10th, 2015, 08:13 AM
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Three to four days in Mrauk U would be fine - as long as you are staying at the Mrauk U Princess. It's a lovely place with individual cottages and it has excellent food. The Princess has its own boats, so you can avoid spend a night in Sittwe (though their boat is pricy). Are you working with a local agency to book hotels and flights? If not, I would recommend that you do. An agency can save you money, especially on accommodations. We worked with Santa Maria and they were wonderful. Also, if you plan to do Balloons over Bagan, they will save you a nice chunk of money on that, BTW, when we were there, the cost of staying at the Princess included all meals.
I've also been traveling to SE Asia since the mid-1980s. You may find that some parts of Burma remind you of Thailand back then.
Let me know if there is other information I can offer.
I've also been traveling to SE Asia since the mid-1980s. You may find that some parts of Burma remind you of Thailand back then.
Let me know if there is other information I can offer.
Apr 11th, 2015, 12:02 AM
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logistics
You can only fly to Sittwe for Mrauk U from Yangon so you need to plan your itinerary around this.
I would add at least 2 days in Mandalay-why not fly into there then work South via Bagan and Inle Lake and then fly Yangon/Sittwe. On the way back to Yangon you could have a few days R&R at Ngapali Beach or add the days to Yangon and surroundings and then fly home from there?
SS
You can only fly to Sittwe for Mrauk U from Yangon so you need to plan your itinerary around this.
I would add at least 2 days in Mandalay-why not fly into there then work South via Bagan and Inle Lake and then fly Yangon/Sittwe. On the way back to Yangon you could have a few days R&R at Ngapali Beach or add the days to Yangon and surroundings and then fly home from there?
SS
Apr 11th, 2015, 07:18 AM
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Thanks for your responses, Kathie and Silverswimmer. We normally do our trip bookings ourselves, but after some checking around on the forums you’re right that Myanmar is one of those countries where using a local agency is very helpful in making bookings when credit cards are not used, dealing with changes in itinerary, getting into hotels that may be booked up for individual customers, etc. (we’re not averse in principle to doing so: we were required to do the same thing for a recent trip to Iran, and I generally advise DIY friends visiting India to do the same).
SS: We’ve decided to add Mandalay to the itinerary. It’s gotten mixed reviews, but we are major history buffs. We haven’t done any detailed reading yet on Myanmar’s history but would do a lot of reading before we get there, and I suspect we would regret not going to some of the locations in and around Mandalay including the old capitals, even if there’s not much there now, or if they are reconstructions as in Mandalay Palace. Plus a friend of ours has some great art work from an artist based in Mandalay...
btw Kathie, I was interested in procuring the Pamela Gutman book on Arakan (that you bought in Myanmar for $49 if I remember your TR correctly) and you may be amused to know that used ones are now being offered from prices between $348 and $999 on amazon! Not that anyone is buying, mind you.
We’ve also decided to bag the Kengtung leg. We are more interested in hiking scenery and being outdoors than villages (and have a high shudder factor for kids begging for candy, women dressed up mainly to get stuff from tourists, etc.) The online photos of the Kengtung day hikes in the dry season are nice but not spectacular, and the villagers nearer the town of Kengtung seem to have a fair bit of the behavior mentioned above (not to knock what they do - I would probably do the same in their shoes, or lack thereof).
So our overall itinerary so far boils down to the Big Four plus Mrauk U.
A question: Even if we are less interested in the ethnic villages around Kalaw, is it worth going to Kalaw for its own sake? Hearing it described as a former British hill station makes me a bit nostalgic for the British hill stations in India that I visited as a kid, but I’m not sure what’s left in Kalaw that’s redolent of the British, or whether the Gurkha/Indian people give it a distinctly different flavor from the rest of Myanmar. Also, can it be visited as a day trip from our base in Inle Lake?
Finally, we’re going to check out additional day hiking or biking options in the Inle/Kalaw region. I’m sure the agency we deal with will have their suggestions, but if anyone has had good experiences, I’d love to hear it.
SS: We’ve decided to add Mandalay to the itinerary. It’s gotten mixed reviews, but we are major history buffs. We haven’t done any detailed reading yet on Myanmar’s history but would do a lot of reading before we get there, and I suspect we would regret not going to some of the locations in and around Mandalay including the old capitals, even if there’s not much there now, or if they are reconstructions as in Mandalay Palace. Plus a friend of ours has some great art work from an artist based in Mandalay...
btw Kathie, I was interested in procuring the Pamela Gutman book on Arakan (that you bought in Myanmar for $49 if I remember your TR correctly) and you may be amused to know that used ones are now being offered from prices between $348 and $999 on amazon! Not that anyone is buying, mind you.
We’ve also decided to bag the Kengtung leg. We are more interested in hiking scenery and being outdoors than villages (and have a high shudder factor for kids begging for candy, women dressed up mainly to get stuff from tourists, etc.) The online photos of the Kengtung day hikes in the dry season are nice but not spectacular, and the villagers nearer the town of Kengtung seem to have a fair bit of the behavior mentioned above (not to knock what they do - I would probably do the same in their shoes, or lack thereof).
So our overall itinerary so far boils down to the Big Four plus Mrauk U.
A question: Even if we are less interested in the ethnic villages around Kalaw, is it worth going to Kalaw for its own sake? Hearing it described as a former British hill station makes me a bit nostalgic for the British hill stations in India that I visited as a kid, but I’m not sure what’s left in Kalaw that’s redolent of the British, or whether the Gurkha/Indian people give it a distinctly different flavor from the rest of Myanmar. Also, can it be visited as a day trip from our base in Inle Lake?
Finally, we’re going to check out additional day hiking or biking options in the Inle/Kalaw region. I’m sure the agency we deal with will have their suggestions, but if anyone has had good experiences, I’d love to hear it.
Apr 11th, 2015, 08:27 AM
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We opted not to visit Kalaw, but if you have the time, you certainly could. I don't know how much of the old hill station atmosphere is still there. If it were me (and it isn't) if I wanted to visit, I'd stay over night. In terms of visiting a hill station, we visited Pyin U Lwin when we were in Mandalay and were disappointed in it. Yes, there are still a few old houses - stucco and half-timber - and a few pretty gardens, but the town was overrun with the military. The generals have been pulling down the old houses and building McMansions and there is a military academy there, so the markets were full of soldiers. There is a national botanical garden there, which was nice.
Since you are going to Mrauk U, you will want to see the Mahamuni Buddha in Mandalay (take note of the Angkorian bronzes while you are there).
I believe we ended up with two copies of the Gutman book (long story). I'd be glad to sell you a copy if you would like. Let me know and I'll provide you with an email address where you can contact me.
Your trip is shaping up nicely!
Since you are going to Mrauk U, you will want to see the Mahamuni Buddha in Mandalay (take note of the Angkorian bronzes while you are there).
I believe we ended up with two copies of the Gutman book (long story). I'd be glad to sell you a copy if you would like. Let me know and I'll provide you with an email address where you can contact me.
Your trip is shaping up nicely!
Apr 11th, 2015, 09:32 AM
#8
I spent 2 or 3 nights in Kalaw and liked it very much. If you like small towns, as I do, with few tourists, it's a congenial place to wander and hang out. If you require "sights" and entertaining then maybe not. If you do go, climb the long staircase to the monastery for the great view.
Apr 11th, 2015, 10:06 AM
#9
I should also mention, resist the temptation to take the train if you decide to go to Kalaw:
http://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/the-...n-in-the-world
There are more Burma blogs mixed in on this list:
http://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/portmoresby-s-index
In Yangon, besides the gallery at the Strand (actually 2, if I recall, one with more ethnic items), consider lunch or tea in the restaurant, a very pleasant experience.
http://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/the-...n-in-the-world
There are more Burma blogs mixed in on this list:
http://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/portmoresby-s-index
In Yangon, besides the gallery at the Strand (actually 2, if I recall, one with more ethnic items), consider lunch or tea in the restaurant, a very pleasant experience.
Apr 12th, 2015, 10:31 AM
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Thank you for your responses and interesting links, Kathie and MmePerdu. And yes, Kathie, would love to have your contact info re: the book. On a sad note, I saw that Pamela Gutman died just a couple of weeks ago; here's a nice article remembering her: http://www.irrawaddy.org/asia/rememb...rakan-art.html
Apr 19th, 2015, 12:43 PM
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I second Kathie's recommendation of Mrauk U. I was there three nights and I almost cried when I left. I so wish I had stayed longer. If you like "old stones", you will never, ever love a place more than Mrauk U. Oh, and I borrowed the Pamela Gutman book from my local library. Try your local library-they might have it. Now that I've wandered about Mrauk U for a few days, I will borrow it again. If I went back to one place in Myanmar, it would be Mrauk U.
I stayed at a modest 3* hotel in Mrauk U called Nawarat Hotel. It is great because you can just walk out the door and the temples are literally at your doorstep. The only good (and it's very good) restaurant in town, Moe Cherry, is a five minute walk down the street. So, you can just go out and wander at will. The hotel is modest, but clean and comfortable, and has plenty of hot water. (And I'm an "Oberoi/Four Seasons" gal, so I'm pretty picky)
I had a Myanmar sim card in my smart phone and could get full internet and email the entire time in Mrauk U. The only place I didn't have internet is when we went up the river to the Chin villages. This may not be important to you, but there is essentially no internet anywhere even though hotels say they "have" wi-fi.
If you like climbing, climb "sunrise mountain" for the sunrise when you are there. It is one of the most magical moments I have ever had in my life. I will have my images organized soon. My sunrise in Mrauk U you can see in my Trip Advisor review of the Nawarat hotel including a picture of that gorgeous sunrise. If you are in good shape, the scramble up this mountain is worth it (you need a guide to show you the path--impossible to find on your own)
The only downside to going to Mrauk U is that you have to spend a night in Sittwe. Avoid the Shwe Tha Zin Hotel if at all possible. It is horrible. See my trip advisor review with images of the horrid bathroom below. I heard from others that a newer hotel has opened in Sittwe. I don't know if this is true. Keep your expectations very low, avoid the bats, and get out early in the morning and you will be fine : )
Enjoy the planning for your trip! You will love Myanmar and all the stones.
Nawarat Hotel (Mrauk U) http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...ine_State.html
Shwe Tha Zin Hotel (Sittwe) review: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...ine_State.html
I stayed at a modest 3* hotel in Mrauk U called Nawarat Hotel. It is great because you can just walk out the door and the temples are literally at your doorstep. The only good (and it's very good) restaurant in town, Moe Cherry, is a five minute walk down the street. So, you can just go out and wander at will. The hotel is modest, but clean and comfortable, and has plenty of hot water. (And I'm an "Oberoi/Four Seasons" gal, so I'm pretty picky)
I had a Myanmar sim card in my smart phone and could get full internet and email the entire time in Mrauk U. The only place I didn't have internet is when we went up the river to the Chin villages. This may not be important to you, but there is essentially no internet anywhere even though hotels say they "have" wi-fi.
If you like climbing, climb "sunrise mountain" for the sunrise when you are there. It is one of the most magical moments I have ever had in my life. I will have my images organized soon. My sunrise in Mrauk U you can see in my Trip Advisor review of the Nawarat hotel including a picture of that gorgeous sunrise. If you are in good shape, the scramble up this mountain is worth it (you need a guide to show you the path--impossible to find on your own)
The only downside to going to Mrauk U is that you have to spend a night in Sittwe. Avoid the Shwe Tha Zin Hotel if at all possible. It is horrible. See my trip advisor review with images of the horrid bathroom below. I heard from others that a newer hotel has opened in Sittwe. I don't know if this is true. Keep your expectations very low, avoid the bats, and get out early in the morning and you will be fine : )
Enjoy the planning for your trip! You will love Myanmar and all the stones.
Nawarat Hotel (Mrauk U) http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...ine_State.html
Shwe Tha Zin Hotel (Sittwe) review: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...ine_State.html
Apr 19th, 2015, 06:30 PM
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Thanks, BostonHarbor, for the encouragement and info on Mrauk U - I think it will be a high point of our trip. And after seeing your truly spectacular sunrise shot, that scramble up is on our trip list! Do you recall about how long it took you to get up?
