Vietnam: have just returned and will try to answer specific questions...
 

We spent nearly three weeks, traveling from the Mekong Delta north to the Chinese border.<BR>Will be glad to try to answer specific questions, but do not pose to be an expert on this fascinating country.

Dear Al: I am very interested in traveling to Vietnam and Cambodia in 2002. What would you say was the highlite of you trip? Also, what city did you find more appealing, Hanoi or Saigon, and why? What kind of accomodations did you have, 5-star or ordinary hotels. What was your favorite meal? Answers to these questions would be greatly appreciated.

Having been to both Cambodia and Vietnam, I would have to rank Angkor Wat head and shoulders over any other places we saw in the two countries. Hanoi is smaller and more interesting than Saigon in our opinion. Its Old Quarter is a non-stop circus of activity. Its Temple of Literature, Ho Chi Minh's home and mausoleum, its One-Pillar Pagoda (and other pagodas), its Museum of Ethnology, and its bustling street life are amazing. Saigon, though much larger, offers little to see. We stayed in two, three, four, and five star hotels, so the range was wide. The Morin Hotel in Hue was our favorite. You could almost expect Peter Lorre or Sidney Greenstreet to pop out of the potted palms. The breakfast on their patio was fabulous. The Horison Hotel in Hanoi was the epitome of luxury; we had stayed in the Galaxy last winter and liked its location next to the Old Quarter. Favorite meal? Try pho (pronouned "fur"--it seems to be the national dish, a rich soup of chicken stock, bits of chicken, and rice noodles). Very filling and cheap. Try the shrimp dishes offered in great variety at The Indochine Restaurant in Hanoi.

Cheers! Thanks alot, gov. Did you have any Luk-Luk steak?

Al, I am going to Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand next week. Do you think it is necessary for me to reserve hotels and air tickets in advance? I did some research and was told that I don't have to, but it is Christmas and New Year. If you have time for one location, would you choose to visit the Perfume Pagoda or Phu Quoc Island? How much cash do you think I should bring if I spend 2 weeks in Vietnam? Does Vietnam have ATM machines? Thanks for your help.

Hotel reservations should not be necessary until Tet arrives in January. We found plenty of vacancies; travel is 'way off. As far as cash goes,$500 should do nicely. Vietnam, as far as we saw, had no ATM machines. Tourist businesses accept most credit cards, however. For best exchange rates, use your card for lodging and gifts in cities. Otherwise, cash is king. The exchange rate for cash ($100 bills) was about 15,500 dong to the dollar. We took American Express travelers checks as backup and never used them.

I went to Vietnam and Cambodia in July 00 and I know there were ATMs in Saigon. We stayed at the New World Hotel Saigon ,76 Le Lai Street, and there was an ATM at the back of our hotel (our hotel was within walking distance of the big, indoor market.<BR><BR>Hope this helps,<BR>Sandy

Al:<BR><BR>I thought about going to Vietnam but after my experience in Bali where we were hassled all the time (touts and beggers), we decided to stop traveling to third world nations for a while. Is the situation in Vietnam as bad. I read somewhere that the beggers will follow you everywhere and you cant walk up and down the street for more than a minute without being hassled.<BR><BR>I understand they are poor but I refuse to give money to people who hassle me and it destroys my vacation.

Can't say how VN compares with Bali (never been there) in the beggar department. We ran across a few, but never were hassled. Compared with San Francisco, VN is a breeze. Our guides told us not to give them anything. It seems "it's a family business," as one guide put it.

I will travel with my 3 children (range 6 to 12)to Vietnam late Dec.to early january. Will spend time at DaNang and Hanoi. Any advice and ideas would be helpful. Thank you.

Wish your questions had been more specific. Weather should be ideal. Danang is not very interesting, IMHO. Nearby (and much smaller) Hoi An is both interesting and fun plus on a very fine beach. Hanoi is our favorite, especially the Old Quarter. You might find the Galaxy Hotel there to be a fine location, immaculately clean, with a fine breakfast buffet. Lonely Planet and Rough Guides we found to be most helpful, although VN is changing so fast that information is difficult to keep up to date. Make sure the kids have their shots, keep hands clean, and drink plenty of bottled water.

Al, thanks for all the info. We leave for Ho Chi Minh in ten days! Couple specific questions:<BR>_ How did you get to the Mekong Delta? I have heard that the hydrofoil is no longer operating from Ho Chi Minh to the delta; our second choice is to take a tourist bus to Can Tho, and spend a couple days based there. Where did you base in the Mekong? Also, did you get to Phuo Cuoc (sp??) island?<BR><BR>_ Within our two weeks, we also plan to visit Hoi An, then fly from Danang to Hanoi, then back to Saigon. In Hanoi, did you take side trips to either Sapa or Halong Bay? If so, which would you recommend at this time of year?<BR><BR>_ Glad to hear we don't need to book ahead, as we are winging our schedule a bit, but do you think this also holds true for hotels in Hoi An? I keep reading it will be mobbed.<BR><BR>Thanks again, we are very much looking forward to our trip!

We found that the hydrofoil connecting Saigon with Can Tho is not operating currently because it lacks customers. Can Tho is a good base for exploring the Delta; a side trip north to Chau Doc on the Cambodian border was worthwhile; saw fish farms on the river and a nearby Muslim community. Rent a boatman's services at the pier at the Victoria Hotel, Chau Doc. No, we did not go to the island you cited. Our route took us by air, then, to Danang (not much there to see) and on to Hoi An, staying at a lovely resort, the Hoi An Beach Resort, only 5 minutes from the center of that preserved town. We went from Hanoi out to Ha Long Bay last February (rainy, foggy) and so elected to go to Sapa via Lao Cai on the train this trip. Weather should be quite good in both places for you. If you have not been to Ha Long, go there first and save Sapa for another trip. It's only 60 miles or so by good road to Ha Long; it's an overnight, uncomfortable train ride to Lao Cai then a 2-hour bus trip up to Sapa. Reservatons won't be needed until Tet, so wing it. Shame you will miss the drive from Hoi An to Hue. Really spectacular, much like Big Sur in California. Hue, we found, was particularly interesting. The Morin Hotel there is a treasure. Good air connections north or south out of Hue; the airport is the old flying field south of the city at Phu Bai. Have a great time!

Thank you, Al, your information is really helpful ( and it sounds like you had a terrific trip!) A few more questions, if I may: <BR>Were you on an organized tour, or did you make your way independently, or a combination of both?<BR>Since the hydrofoil to Can Tho is not operating, what is the best way to get there? <BR>We have been wavering on Hue vs. Hoi An _ if we only have time for one, which would you choose? Or can one be done as a day trip from the other?<BR>Thanks again.

We were on a semi-independent tour, with all transportation and lodging pre-arranged and local guides in southern, central, and northern VN. There are plenty of buses connecting Saigon with Can Tho, or you can hire a car. It's a half-day drive between Hue and Hoi An. I would choose Hue and take some day trips to outlying places, i.e. the mausoleums and pagodas up the Perfume<BR> River, the Citadel, a leisurely cyclo ride around the city, etc. Hoi An, by itself, can be seen in a couple hours. Hue is much, much larger, possibly VN's fourth-largest city after Saigon, Hanoi, and Haiphong. We found Hue's Morin Hotel to be superb--comfortable, great food, excellent location, with lots of old French atmosphere.

Dear Al, I'm going to be starting my travels through SE Asia in VN. I plan on doing a lot of jungle/mountain trekking in the northern and central highlands. Is it safe to camp (allowed)? by reading previous messages, I'm aware that you didn't partake? Around Sapa is it a good idea to have a guide, or is it necessary? in your opinion, how where conditions on trains/buses? I'll be travelling on a lean budget for 2wks - month not willing to sacrfice comfort on long trips for a couple bucks. in your opion, is there much worth seeing enroute from Hanoi - Danang? I was think of flying that leg and continuing on south by bus/train. I heard trains are far more expensive than a "open" busfare. I want to travel along the Ho Chi Minh trail for part of journey, any words of advice? Also, did you run into greedy policmen or problems w/ petty theft in VN/Cambodia? concerned as I will be travelling alone. Thanks

Let me assume that you are male, and so would say that camping out is not the best of ideas, given that lodging can be very cheap indeed. Second, you don't know the territory. A local guide could save you a great deal of time and lead you to places you would never find otherwise. The cost would be minimal. The Ho Chi Minh Trail is not a single pathway. It was an entire system of interconnected, intertwining routes, some footpaths while others were practically highways. They lie about as far from the coast as you can get, and far away from any public transport. The country between Hanoi and Danang is scenic but poor. They say that northern VN produces the politicians, southern VN produces the rich, and central VN produces the poor.<BR>There is a marvelous national park about 50 miles sw of Hanoi, a "dry" HaLong Bay with Guilin-type karst topography, great limestone hunks rising hundreds of feet among winding streams and rice paddies. A boat trip there costs practically nothing and takes you through three big caves. We ran into no theft problems, no problems with the police (they were very helpful, in fact), and we were never short-changed once. True, there is a two-tier pricing system; one for Vietnamese and one for Westerners, but the difference is mostly pennies. As far as comparing trains and buses, the nod would go to trains, booking "soft" accommodations. Both can be VERY crowded and slow. For example, the train ride between Hanoi and Saigon takes 36 hours...when the train runs on time. Spend a few extra bucks and fly; you will be glad you did. After awhile, you will find that a lot of VN is like Kansas...very repetitive. Concentrate on a few locales and enjoy you time by slowing down. Make sure you see the Highlands, however. That's where the minority people live. Very interesting, can be quite primitive, somewhat shy, but certainly hospitable. You will be amazed how friendly all the people of VN will be to you, but you must "break the ice" by being friendly first. They seem to bear no ill will toward others. In fact, if you speak English slowly and distinctly, you will be surprised that (by using a few VN phrases) you will get along quite well. Never, NEVER raise your voice. Speak softly. Be courteous. They will overwhelm you with their caring attitude.

Al, Thanks for replying so soon. I'm sure your words of wisdom will come in handy while over there. I'm sure I will have some more questions as the departure comes closer, so I hope you don't mind me picking your brain a little bit. I've been looking for someone to converse w/ about VN, but it doesn't seem to be on too many peoples places to go list. Thanks again. Doug

Al, <BR>In your opinion, what are the nicest beaches in Vietnam?

This is for you, Kathy.

my wife and i have three weeks to spend in vietnam in september. it is a first time trip there and we are inclined to staying in the north (hanoi, ha long bay, sapa or even bac ha, etc.) with a stop in hue and three days at nha trang for scuba and beach. no hcm city, no meking delta? is this a mistake?<BR><BR>we have the money to spend on a car and driver. so here is the age old traveler's request: how can we get off the beaten track? for example, i've read of the tourist hordes at sapa's sunday market and the persisitent sales efforts of locals there. what if we just drove one hour in the other direction to a smaller town or village on its market day?<BR><BR>also, what is the name of that marvelous national park about 50 miles sw of Hanoi, a "dry" HaLong Bay with Guilin-type karst topography? sounds like a nice side trip.<BR><BR>many thanks. you are providing a great service to us all.<BR><BR>mylesfire

I am replying with an "anonymous" e-mail address because we have changed our provider and don't want to attract all the spam we used to get. OK? OK.<BR><BR>We are not "beach" aficianados and so cannot give expert advice. China Beach, north of Danang, is an immense swath of sand but with roaring surf and a vicious undertow and riptides. Not for us. Reminded us of the beaches along North Carolina's Outer Banks.<BR><BR>Mylesfire: we can provide you with the name of a superb young man who can be your guide in the northern part of VN, who is based in Hanoi. He can handle all arrangements, speaks fine English, and is full of ideas of places to see that are off the tourist track. He can set you up with a good car and driver, and he will accompany you wherever you wish to go. Use this forum to let me know your wishes, and we will contact you via e-mail. The "dry HaLong Bay" national park was Ninh Binh, I believe. Very interesting, scenic, and great fun. It was the idea of our young man to go there -- and we were so happy that we did.<BR><BR>Sapa is well worth your visit. We found no crowds at all. We took the train from Hanoi to Lao Cai, and then a bus took us to Sapa. Cool up among the cloud-crested peaks. A private railway car, chartered by the hotel in Sapa, took our small group both ways. The hotel was extremely nice, good service, even had e-mail connections. In many ways, this was the high spot of our trip. Cities we liked: Hanoi, Hoi An, Hue. Cities we would just as soon have skipped: HCMC, Can Tho, Danang. Just one couple's opinions, you understand.<BR><BR>My wife and I often talk about our trip, and we concluded that Ho Chi Minh City offered little compared with Hanoi. The Mekong Delta? Well, after you have seen a few rice paddies, a lot of brown water, and jungle-choked boonies, it gets very repetitious. Without question, the people are what make VN such an unending circus of vitality, friendliness, and fascination.We can't say enough good things about all we encountered.<BR>

Where did you stay in Sapa, Al? Thanks for all the great information!

Would love to get the name of the guide in Hanoi. I may be going to Vietnam in January. Thanks<BR>Joan

In Sapa, we stayed at The Victoria Hotel, probably the best place there. Excellent in all respects.<BR><BR>Our Hanoi guide can be reached via e-mail at: [email protected]<BR><BR>He speaks excellent English, has a very outgoing personality, knows his business, is very service-minded. Young Mr. Chung is a model guide.

Hi Al!<BR>I will be going to Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia in November on a Smartours tour. I am a bit mixed up as to what shots I will need. Smartours says that I won't have to get any. The CDC got me totally mixed up. What did you do?<BR>Thanks.<BR>Judy

This all sounds fascinating! Am planning to travel to Hanoi in August. Does anyone know if this is the rainy season? Also, has anyone stayed at the Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel? Any feedback? Thanks.<BR><BR>Lia

For Al: We would like to do a semi independent trip like you did to Vietnam in 2003. What tour company did you use? It sounds like the ideal trip, exactly what I've been looking for.

We employed the excellent services of a man-and-wife team who live in Olympia, WA. E-mail them at: [email protected] -- they also have a web site: www.indochinatours.com

hi! i need some help to plan for our trip to vietnam and cambodia in Nov 02.<BR>we have 2 weeks, Al , John, can you tell me how you went from Viet to Cambodia, and how you book you transfers/airtix.....many thanks!

hello<BR>I am going to vietnam on nov 14. have you been to HoaBinh to visit the minority villages.is it worthy??<BR>what about doing a day trip to theDMZ from Hue? has any visited it<BR>Everobody talks abou HMC and thieves is that bad??? can i just walk around with no much hassle, carrying a camera in my bag... suggestions<BR>have a great day<BR>Jeanine

Hi Jeanine,<BR><BR>I just got back from VN last Sunday. Stay in HCMC for about 1 week and didn't have any problems with carrying my camera or thieves in the city. Do make sure you carry a money pouch though as there are a lot of pick pockets.

AL: I think you are the person I need to speak with.<BR>I am travelling to Nam and Cambodia and only have 2 weeks in total.<BR><BR>1. Would you go to Halong Bay?<BR>2. Would you go to Hue, Danang, and Hoi An?<BR>3. Do I need more than 2 days in Saigon to get the feel?<BR>4. Have you been to Phnom Penh? If so would you do it again? <BR>5. Did you stay at the Metropole in Hanoi? You metioned another Hotel in the old quarter, would you prefer that pone to the Metropole?<BR>6. Have you a hotel recommendation in Saigon? I was thinking of satying at the Caravelle.<BR><BR>Thank you fellow traveller for your time