| Cicerone |
Jan 18th, 2010 06:10 PM |
You can see both in a day trip, but it will be a longish day, so I would recommend starting as early as you can. Due to the completion of the highway to Jodhpur, the trip from Udaipur to Ranakpur should take you about 2 hours one way. From Udaipur to Kumbhalgarh will be about the same, maybe a little longer (while further north, you are on the fast highway for longer). The distance between Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh is about 45 minutes. So figure being on the road for about 5-6 hours for the day wihtout sightseeing time. In any case, once you are off the highway, the trip on the back roads is marvelous - - lots of villages and farms. If you have a guide in the car, they can perhaps show you one of the village water wheels drawn by horses or cows, you may not notice these yourself.
Ranakpur is closed to non-Jains daily until Noon, so it may make some sense to go to Kumbhalgarh first. Ranakpur will also take less time, IMO, you can really see it in about an hour or maybe a bit more unless you are having a meal there or really want to walk to see all the small temples.
If you go to Kumbhalgarh, I would try to bring a picnic lunch and picnic up on the walls. There is a nice little hotel near the first gate, the Aodhi, where you could have lunch before or after a visit to the fort, but service is slow and menu a little limited, so it may be better just to stop for tea here (and to use the facilities, as there are few along the way).
Kumbhalgarh is enormous. The first time I went I had a guide which was helpful as there is very little signage to guide you. I am not sure many guidebooks cover it in depth so you may not find much printed information or any site plans. I’m pretty good on my Indian history, but if you are not then again a guide may be useful for background explanation. However, even without a guide you will find it impressive, and if you follow the crowds up the hill to the main fort area, should be able to find most of the main palace rooms. Be sure to see the Hindu temple with the Shiva lingam which is down near the entrance (to the right with your back to the main entrance), and to walk some of the fort walls as well so you can appreciate their massive size. How much you can see will depend on how much time you want to spend there. Views are marvelous.
Ranakpur has one main temple, another major sun temple, and many smaller temples. Again, a guide can be useful in explaining the various parts of the main temple and aspects of the Jain religion. You may be able to find guides at the entrance. You cannot bring any kind of leather into the temple (i.e. belts, handbags), but will leave them outside with your shoes. They have a vegetarian lunch every day which you can buy, which may be another option if you go to Ranakpur first.
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