happytotravel

We have just returned from spending spring break in India with our two children DD (age 15) and DS (age 12) . The kids have been many places but were really excited about India. We choose Delhi Magic to make our arrangements and it worked out wonderfully. I had read about them on trip advisor, contacted them ( www.delhimagic.com) , and Deepa replied right back to me with suggestions and a quote, we were happy with it and choose Deepa immediately without even checking for comparisons. We had 10 days and choose Delhi, Neemrana, Jaipur, and Agra. Unfortunately for us, we missed our flight out of Chicago by minutes due to airline delays.

We ended up spending our first night of spring break in Chicago rather than India. But not to disappoint we made the most of it and had a rather enjoyable but chilly day searching for the Rick Bayless restaurant in the city with our new friend who had also missed her flight to India.

Coming soon: Delhi

KERRYAJS1

Such an intriguing title! Look forward to more.

happytotravel

Arrival in Delhi (better late than never) : Met by a representative with flower leis. Such a nice touch. We notice immediately there is a smell in the air sort of like incense. We ask and our representative says he didn't notice anything, it must have been the flower leis. We meet our driver Dev and proceed to our hotel.

Colonel Retreat: I did not want this hotel or B&B because some reviews were not so great, but Deepa convinced me that it would be fine. She was right, it was spotlessly clean, really nice employees, and a nice small size. www.colonelsretreat.com . Breakfast was made to order, we really couldn't ask for more for our short Delhi stay.

Chicken Inn: We asked our representative about dinner because we arrived late at night and it was too late to walk anywhere. He took us to the Chicken Inn for our first taste of Indian food in India. We thought that was a funny name, and funny that they also served Chinese food. As we find out later, nearly every restaurant serves Chinese food. We also try our first mango lassi's. The food was very good and we leave satisfied.

Because of our missed flight we missed a day in Delhi, we had signed up for the Delhi by rickshaw tour, Deepa postponed it for us until the last day. In exchange our driver said he would drive us around Delhi a little bit before we left for Neemrana. He took us to the the Ghandi museums and government buildings. We were really impressed. We also encountered our first beggars. Unsure of the value of rupees yet, Dh rolls down his window and starts handing out 100 Rupees to anyone that approaches the vehicle. Our driver never said either way whether it was acceptable or not, so DH continues while we are in Delhi. We eat lunch somewhere by the embassies and drive to Neemrana.

Driving: This was our first experience driving with cows, camels,donkey's, tractors, overflowing trucks, walkers, bicycles, endless horns, motor scooters, rickshaws and everything else. Wow, we can't believe our eyes. It was so exciting and totally crazy. The drive takes about 3 hours, but when we arrive we are ready to get out of the car. The stimulation was exhausting and yet exhilarating.

Neemrana: We give this hotel a mixed review, some things we loved, and somethings we did not. Registration was hot and seemed to take forever. Our room was large and unique, yet full of mosquitos and a little dirty and not entirely comfortable. We bring the mosquitos to their attention and they come in and spray, but of course the spray left residue on the floor, it was not so nice. In an effort to get away from the room DD and I decide to visit the spa for a massage.

Ayurvedic massage: Wow, if I had scheduled this right when we arrived, I probably would have said this was the best hotel ever. It was incredible, I can't say that all of the staff is the same, but the girl that worked on me was great. The massage starts with dripping a small amount of oil on your head, then a full head and shoulder massage followed by a complete body massage. followed by a steam, followed by a complete scrub and rinse. I was so happy to be clean and not have to bathe in my room, that I also scheduled one for the next day. DD was also happy. We sent DH the next day to try it out. All for about 2000 rupees each.

Afternoon tea and dinner at the hotel were also very nice. DD was thrilled that they offered alternatives to Indian food.

Zipline: this was a hit with the kids. Overall the kids did not like our room, but rate the hotel high because of the Zipline.

Driving to Jaipur: Crazy, Crazy, Crazy, if it was possible, it seems the road has gotten worse from the drive from Delhi. Now there are monkeys near the road. Traffic is horrible, but somehow we are able to drive faster than the ambulances, endlessly squeezing in and out of cars, honking the horn,narrowly missing people. Stimulation overload. We arrive in Jaipur and eat at the place the driver has taken us. We joke that he is taking us to only tourist places, but it has clean toilets and it's nice to get out of the car.


The Fern is our hotel in Jaipur, kids loved this hotel, it's a business hotel but it's small enough to feel cozy. www.fernhoteljaipur.com . It's a little bit on the outside of town, and with traffic it can seem inconvenient, so our driver wanted us to make all of our stops while we were out rather than coming back and forth but it worked. We notice how all around us they are building, but very slowly. It appears that the workers live in the structures that they are building and bring their families. We also begin to notice the difference between the haves and the have nots. At our hotel the first night there was a birthday party for a little girl around age 5. The party was fully catered, with a dance floor, dj, bouncy toys and tons of guests. Yet just on the other side of the wall, people are living under tarps. Quite a contrast.

Guide; Our guide for Jaipur was Monika and she stayed with us for two full days. We first visit the Amber fort, the temple, and then head to do some shopping. At first we were a little disturbed that she had taken us to a rug shop, but unlike Turkey, there was no pressure to buy and just upstairs they were selling made to order clothing. DH and Ds both buy custom made shirts and I pick up a quilt. We are not big shoppers but we liked that store. Monika then takes us to lunch, we ask for some place that offers more than indian food. Still we found it to be touristy. She explains that in jaipur that the place we are at, is a nice place ,and her and her family also eat there. All in all we really like Monika, and look forward to seeing her the next day.

Elephant Safari: An all time favorite. It's located on the elephant polo grounds. This was our biggest splurge of the trip and also our favorite. You are met at the car with a cool drink, and then taken to the restroom, offered another drink. Then you can feed the elephants or ride a camel before getting on your elephant for the sunset safari. The safari lasts about an hour through the peaceful hills, half way through you are met with another drink, and then music plays in the background as the moon shines. Afterwards, you are served appetizers, and more drinks before your nearly private dinner is served.

Cuisine tour: Taste of Jaipur. This is done at the house of Monika and her parents. Not only an introduction to Indian food, but also to Indian family life and traditions. Monikas mother and aunt prepare the food, Monika translates, and grandmother watches closely but silently, sister in law also participates in the cooking. DH spent time in the other room with Monikas father and brother, they are interested in seeing pictures of our life in the US and they discuss cricket. DS does neither and watches television in Monikas bed room. Lunch is very good, but by this point we are all rather tired of Indian food, so nobody eats much. We spend about 3 hours with Monika and her family. Very enjoyable.

We tour the city palace and walk around town, but again with so much stimulation we are ready to head back to our hotel for some rest and relaxation. I decide that another massage would be perfect. Our hotel does not yet have a spa, so my driver suggests a different place.

Ayurvedic Massage second time around: This place was more of a clinic than a spa. Rather than a changing room, it had a bathroom with just a turkish toilet, no chair for your clothing,so needless to say, a few of my items fell in the toilet. Next the massage room was more of an exam room, nothing spa like about it. Rather than oil delicately dripped on you, it was slathered on, rather than a pleasant smell, there was an oder of popcorn butter, rather than soothing music, there was traffic noise. I can't find the name right now, but when I do, I will list it as a place to avoid. It was about 1800 rupees. I came back to the hotel incognito, I was an oily mess.

Next: Agra

shelleyk

Great beginning. Looking forward to the next installment.

Craig

Having been to India twice, I am enjoying your perspective on this fascinating but often frustrating country. Keep it coming...

happytotravel

Final Jaipur note: DS was a magnet for the children begging in Jaipur, they always went right to his window, we are still unsure of the proper etiquette regarding giving. But we gave baggies of toothbrushes, stickers,candy, soap, and small toys to the kids that approached the car, to our surprise, nobody threw the bags back at us.

Road to Agra: Really this highway was pretty nice compared to the others we had been on. We stop halfway for food. DD and I don't eat, at this point we really need a break from Indian food.

Howard Park Plaza: Our least favorite hotel of the trip, but the rooms were clean.

Our new guide for Agra met us at the hotel and drove with us to the Mother Teresa Care center.

Mother Teresa Care Center and orphanage: We had brought with us one very large suitcase of children's clothing, school supplies, and soap and toothbrushes to donate. We loved this place, we went around and played with each of the children and shook hands with the elderly. They are so happy to have visitors. We also put some of the dresses on the kids that my mother had made. The kids smiles were so big as they tried on those dresses. The care center receives the children of people who are very poor and cannot care for them, so the orphanage cares for them, and the parents can come and get them whenever they want. The care center also cares for people who have no one or are mentally Ill.

Before we left, we asked if there were other items that they needed. The sister said they desperately needed rice, lentils, and laundry soap. So we had our driver take us to the mall to pick up those items.

While we were shopping for the care center supplies, the manager of the store asked why were buying all of these items. When we told him, he and several other managers came over and shook my husbands hand. They said they had never seen people doing this before.

After shopping we eat at McDonalds, DS was so happy.

All in all it was a very enjoyable day and if we had ended our trip right then, we would have said that this was our best vacation ever. (more to follow)

We go back to the hotel, DS and DH watch the Pakistan/ India cricket match. Fireworks over Agra after India won.

Next day:

Taj Mahal: After so much anticipation, and the circumstances of our situation this day, this was somewhat of a let down, but still very beautiful.

Bear Rescue: Wildlife SOS. This is located in a bird sanctuary, so before arriving at the bear rescue you need to pay 350 rupees a person to drive thru the sanctuary, but its actually very pretty and a nice contrast to the filth and traffic of Agra. The bear rescue takes in bears that have been used as dancing bears. I think they have around 100 bears, some are blind, all have some sort of damage. The environment is as close to natural as possible. It's free to get i, but they would like contributions. Delhi magic makes a matching contribution. We were the only visitors at the time.

More Agra to come:

CaliNurse

happy, many thanks for the honesty of your review.

Yes, ayurvedic massage varies tremendously! I think your second experience was more typical; the one at Neemrana sounds quite tourist oriented , and much nicer!!

Surprised your driver was neutral about handing out 100 inr notes to beggars at the car windows. Our drivers dissuaded us from that, explaining the reasons, and offering alternatives (charities).

Looking forward to more!! Thank you again for taking the time to write this!!

althom1122

Yes, loving your report. More, more!

SueHuml

Great start, Keep it coming.

KERRYAJS1

How wonderful that you donated to the orphanage! Everyone should do something like this when traveling as its a great opportunity to actually see that the charity gets what they really need.

I have done this as well on occasion too and often, for a small amount of money by our standards, a big difference can be made. Congratulations on this and setting such a great example to your teens.

I also admire your forethought with your gifts as those items are really useful and fun too! I have donated pencils and paper to an orphanage in Vietnam thinking these types of gifts will always be handy.

Your generosity with the poor is also commendable. I know some will say this does not help them as they will just keep on begging, but who knows what circumstances led to their situation? I am inclined to think that in most cases, poverty is way beyond the control of those so afflicted , so why not help? Even if you can't help them long term, who knows what effect you have on the human spirit with a small act of kindness. Well done!

dogster

That driver wasn't neutral. He knew he had people who handed out 100 rupees to anyone that approaches the vehicle in his car. He was gonna get a real big tip.

I must remember to tell you and KERRY my story about the Bihar Beggars of Bombay...

happytotravel

Here are a few photos:
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...=2EZsWbNy2YsUO

So this is where the trip gets hairy, as I said above if we could have ended the trip right after McDonalds it would have been the perfect vacation. That night, we go to bed and in the middle of the night, DD comes in to say that DS is vomiting. DH goes to bed with him and in the morning he says that he has been vomiting about once an hour. We are concerned and not sure what to do. We call the hotel doctor and he recomends Immodium. We have all ready tried that and he cant keep it down, but he has been sick before in his life and we figure he just needs a little more time. I text my mom and sister at home and mention this to them.

We decide to take turns visiting the Taj Mahal with the guide, while one of us stays with DS. Well while at the Taj Mahal DH gets a text from my sister saying that we need to get DS to Delhi to the hospital immediately. We figure she must be overreacting, but she had called her friend who used to live in India and thats what she said to do.

The guide suggests his family doctor. We don't know what to do at this point. The vomiting really did not seem so bad, so we go to the doctor of our guide and the guide translates. The Dr. gives us some pills to stop the vomiting. We go back to the hotel, DH and DS stay at the hotel while DD and I visit the bear rescue.

When we return, DS has been vomiting continuously for an hour. We know he can't handle any more. We return to the Doctor. He suggest an IV, We know we have no choice, but the place is so filthy, not sure what to do, we choose the IV, we know he cant make it to Delhi.

We check the drugs, the supplies,etc, everything is sealed and seems sterile. I text my mom the medication that he is being given, she checks it out and says yes we should do it. The clinic is so dirty, but we go upstairs to the so called private deluxe room. The sheets are stained and IV pole is filthy, but we feel as if time is running out. They insert the IV no problem. As I write this I am still terrified of the germs DS may have picked up at that clinic, but we really felt we had no choice. He went from looking normal to very sick so fast.
DH and I are crying. I decide to go back to the hotel, I can't take seeing DS in that room, and my crying certainly wasn't helping.

The driver and guide stay with DH and DS the whole evening.

Surprise, being back at the hotel didn't help either. I can't take not being DS but I have no way to get back. I take the bible from the room and go down to the Lobby and cry some more. I am so angry with myself for taking my kids on a trip which could potentially risk their lives, I didn't even think about researching a doctor in each town we were visiting, how could I be so dumb and not check out what to do in an emergency before hand. I cry and cry, eventually Indian guide comes up to me and talks. He tells me not to worry it happens all the the time. He sees me clutching the bible and he tells me " trust in god" About an hour later DS and DH return. DS is weak, but walking and even drinking a little. The Dr says to come back in the morning for another IV.

We sleep holding DS all night. He sleeps fine and we periodically give him drinks. In between my mom and I are texting each other "what if its this" "what if its that" terrifying ourselves. As soon as daylight arrives I tell DH I want to get to Delhi, and not go back to the dirty clinic. He says alright. We quickly pack and let the driver know.

We get in the car and DS quickly falls asleep. DH and I take turns checking his pulse and trying to get him to drink, but he is so tired it seems impossible.
Around five hours later we arrive at Max hospital in Delhi, wow this is like the Taj Mahal compared to where we have been. Guess what, DS wakes up and walks out of the car looking normal. He goes to the ER and they simply remove the IV catheter, no further treatment.

Kathie

Scary episode. Glad it turned out well. I always take emergency supplies with me, antibiotic, rehydration salts, immodium, etc... The big danger to watch out for when someone gets GI illness is dehydration, as you now know. I also always have medical evacuation insurance. They could have gotten your son to Delhi in short order via helicopter or small plane if necessary.

For future reference, the embassy could have given you the names of local doctors and clinics that could have provided a higher standard of care.

thursdaysd

Very scary! Yes, I travel with dehydration packets, and always with medical evacuation insurance. It usually comes with a number to call to get medical advice. I've also used the embassy web site (in Tbilisi, Georgia) to find a doctor. In some countries finding a pharmacy works as well as finding a doctor.

BTW, handing money to every beggar you see is really not a great idea. Many of them, especially if children, may see none of the money themselves, being "run" by a local mafia. I give to a charity (usually concerned with educating girls) before I leave home for India. (But giving "in kind" to the orphanage is, on the other hand, a great idea.)

happytotravel

Exactly thursdaysd and Kathie,
I am hoping that by writing this, it will help others to be prepared. Just a follow up with the illness, DS is doing well, no sign of illness and he's having a follow up check up tomorrow.

Delhi Airport
After the hospital, we just wanted the driver to take us to the airport. We were supposed to have our Delhi tour, but decided we would rather sit in the airport and avoid any more hassles. Big surprise for us. We go to the airport the guards ask us what time our flight is, and they say no, you can not get into the airport until 3 hrs prior. We call our driver back, and he suggests coming to his house for dinner.

Dinner at Dev's house was really nice. His family was so friendly and his wife was an excellent cook. We felt It was actually the best Indian meal we had. He also had his mother at his house. What amazes me, is that these grandmothers in their late 80's are able to sit up on a chair with their legs up and crossed. I work with the elderly, and this is something I have never seen before. Monikas grandmother also didi this.

After dinner we head back to the airport and are turned away again. Note: to all Americans, you need to have a copy of you itinerary with you before you can get inside the Delhi airport. Not only did we not have it with us, many other Americans were there in the same situation. I head out with Dev to an internet cafe to print off a copy, meanwhile DH and kids try to find someone at the airport to help. I get back with my copy and DH has also gotten a copy. So we head into the airport. But be warned, we needed to show our tickets and passports a total of 9 times before we actually boarded the plane. So there is no reason to put your passport away before you board the plane.

A final note about our impressions of India. We were so impressed with the kindness of the Indian people, they were always ready to go above and beyond to help. Really, excluding our illness, we could not have asked for a better trip. Even DS
says that he would like to go back.

DD had a great time and was often treated like a celebrity. For some reason everyone wanted her to be in their photographs. They were always pulling her aside, handing her kids to hold in photos. Maybe it was her braids or her glasses. It was really funny.

Regarding the tip for our driver, he did end up with a very large one. We were unsure of how much money we were going to need for the hospitals (turned out to be $60) so we withdrew way too much money. He ended up with all of our leftover rupees. But he was really so nice, he deserved it.

Kathie

You are so right that writing this report can help others be better prepared. Thank you for that.

I do hope you will plan a return trip to India - it's such a remarkable place.

thursdaysd

Great report - thanks. Glad to hear DS is doing well - hope the checkup is with a specialist in tropical diseases, though.

Your experience with Delhi airport is typical for India (and Pakistan). You need proof of travel (although I'm surprised about the itinerary - usually tickets are fine) and be within 2-3 hours of scheduled take-off. Usually ALL your luggage goes through X-ray as you enter the airport (often checked luggage is taped), and I've even had to ID my checked bags on the tarmac before they were loaded. Actually, I think the Indian system makes more sense than the TSA's security theater.

CaliNurse

Happy, thank you for the rest of the trip report. Glad for the very good news that your son is ok.
I appreciate your stories, even the negative ones, as Kathie and Thursdaysd said. The hotel doc simply recommended immodium?! what a quack!

You needed the itin to enter the airport? Wonder if that is something new. All I recall from DEL and BLR is having to show id and ticket for them to compare to our names on a list when we first entered. Having id checked numerous times made more sense than with US airports, just putting bottles in a baggie and removing shoes--but showing id only once!!!!

magical

Great report....I am glad for the good news that your son is ok. It is always scary getting sick far away from home!!

Loved the part about helping a good charity with very personal care and attention to their specific needs. Is there another trip to India in your future....perhaps soon?

What did you like/dislike about the hotel in Delhi....colonels retreat? We are looking for a good hotel in Delhi for a reasonable price for our trip.

Thanks for a well written report.

happytotravel

I should clarify, tickets would be fine to get in the airport, we didn't have tickets because it wouldn't let us check in online, but you need something to show that you are getting on a plane within 3 hours, before you can get in the airport. Unfortunately there are no airline counters or representatives out front to print your ticket for you.

Magical: We were only at the Colonels Retreat for one night, so I may not be the one to ask, but what I liked, was that its in a residential neighborhood, it's small, its almost like having your own apartment because there are just six rooms total in two different areas, staff was very friendly. I think there is a market street very nearby, but can't be for sure, so I don't know if its a walkable neighborhood or not.

I do think we may to plan another trip to India in a few years. I know there are other areas I want to see, and DS didn't even get to see the Taj Mahal out the car window, so he'll need to go back. It was also surprising that despite the long flight, it seemed to be easier adjusting to jet lag than going to Europe.

I hope that in writing this report I don't scare anyone from going to India. You should definitely go, just be prepared in the event of emergency. I think Kathies and Thursdaysd advice would be great to follow.