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-   -   Trip to Kyoto in Feb 2007 (https://www.fodors.com/community/asia/trip-to-kyoto-in-feb-2007-a-660409/)

cats53 Dec 31st, 2006 03:24 PM

We stayed at the Westin Miyako in June. The hotel runs its own shuttle bus between the Kyoto station & the hotel. We took it both from the train station to the hotel & back to the train station on our departure.
Depending on when you arrive this is a good alternative to taking the subway from the station to the Keage station with your luggage.
This is from the hotel's website:
"20 minutes from Kyoto Station's Hachijoguchi by hotel bus(Bus runs 9:00 - 18:00 every 30 minutes.)"
The Keage station is right around the corner from the hotel so its very convenient once you're settled into the hotel.
Enjoy Kyoto!

Olivier67 Jan 3rd, 2007 07:36 AM

I will also be staying at Westin Miyako in February, arriving from Kansai airport. A friend adviced me to take a bus at the airport driving you directly to Kyoto station.
At Kyoto station, there is a reception for the hotel where you can check-in, leave your luggage and start your visit (depending of course of your time of arrival there...).

tkic2 Jan 4th, 2007 03:55 AM

My flight arrives at Kansai at 7.10pm. I think I won't be able to use Westin Miyako's shuttle service nor the check-in at Kyoto station at this time.

I may book an airport shuttle taxi which costs 3,000 yen one-way for the airport transfer since I'm arriving so late.

http://www.yasaka.jp/taxi/shuttle-e/service-e.html

Still deciding whether to go to Ohara or Arashiyama for my half-day trip to see rural Kyoto, and would appreciate any recommendation.

emd Jan 4th, 2007 10:24 AM

I've been to both Ohara and Arishiyama.

Ohara is a very nice rural town, about 30 min outside of Kyoto up in the mountains (more like 45 min. from center of Kyoto by bus- it was 30 min. for us getting on the bus #16 or #17 across street from Keihan-Sanjo station; we were staying at the Westin Miyako). I LOVED it. The day I spent there is still one of my two favorite days in Japan after two trips and 26 days in the country. It is quiet and beautiful. As you exit the bus station and cross the rd. there is a path that takes you on a lovely walk next to a stone canal. The canal is lined w/nice shops w/lovely handmade items. These are not the gawdy tourist shops; they are very nice quality. I found a lovely collection of obi sashes in one of the shops and have the one I bought that day framed and hanging in my bedroom. There are a few temples to visit (I recall three right in a row off a street perpendicular to the little canal). It is quiet, except in autumn when the leaves turn all around Ohara. There are not many sakura in the area sicne it is higher up, and I was told by a shop owner that they do not get too busy in spring. There is a lovely old waterwheel on the canal called Ohara Kyodaken.

After visiting the shops and temples, I went in search of the old convent, Jakkoin. It had burned down the year before I was there, and was being rebuilt; it should be done by now. I was particularly impressed with the houses and the architecture in the little neighborhoods I walked in.

Arishiyama is much more touristy. When we exited the train station the street was full of somewhat tacky souvenier shops leading to the river. The river is ok, nothing all that special IMO, and we walked over the bridge to our destination, the Monkey Park. The Monkey park was cool. After that we left and went back past the train station and walked through the bamboo forests in the Sagano area, also very cool. But I really liked the charm of Ohara better.

Here are excerpts from my trip reports about both of these places. I hope it helps you decide.

OHARA:
From the hotel, board subway at Keage (or walk up to Higashiyama sta. like we did after ATM) to Sanjo-Keihan, walk over to the bus stop outside of Keihan-Sanjo station and catch bus 16 or 17 (I wonder who decided to have two stations next to each other, sharing a station passageway, on different subway lines, with the same name but words inverted?) The bus ride is about 30 min. and climbs out of the city into the mountains. It starts to snow. I am bundled up w/every piece of under and outer wear I brought, but son went w/Tshirt and jean jacket even after I nudged him. We get out at Ohara and it is not snowing, not sleeting, but these hard round ice pellets are falling. Son asks “what are we doing here” and I sense trouble as we have discussed this. We cross the st., bear left, and turn right to catch the path up to Sanzen’in. It is lovely right away, the rushing stream, Ohara Kyodokan w/the waterwheel, the little path w/the shops and foods. I like it already. And there are few people here, just us and a few Japanese. We go through Sanzen’in and son is smirking w/attitude. I tell him for 3rd time that it is perfectly fine if he gets on the bus and goes somewhere, anywhere he wants to go in Kyoto, but this is my last day too and I'm staying. I hand him a lot of yen and tell him to go back to the bus and call me in 2 hours, and he waves goodbye.

Alone in Ohara, it is a beautiful afternoon. I liked Sanzen’in, but Shorin’in is really nice. The roof is so impressive, and the bell is fantastic. Wonderful wood carvings above the door. I walk around the back and down a path and there is a phenomenal old growth forest. I feel like I am in Lord of the Rings. I walk pretty far and come across a shrine w/the rocks and aprons, and I realize I have come to an area I should not be in, it is a baby cemetery. I turn around to leave and a gardener/caretaker comes up, I think “oh gosh, I’ve really blown it now.” Instead of yelling at me, she bows and signals to me to go back up the path. I bow and apologize. I wish they’d had the path roped off. The lady at the gate lets me use the bathrm. at Hosen’in temple next door. It is the tiniest bathrm. I’ve ever been in. The toilet has a built in sink on the tank top- very smart.

I walked back down the path and shop, find fantastic embroidered fabric from the sash part of fine kimonos. I buy some to frame. Crossed over the main rd. and behind the bus stop is a path that I think leads to Jakkoin. As I walk I am going through a fine neighborhood. The sun is sinking low and the light is incredible, there is orange moss, yellow moss, and all shades of bright green moss all over. People have big gardens planted and many of them are out working in them. The architecture of these houses blows me away and I decide I'm going to find a Japanese architecture class. The beauty of this little village is remarkable. I fall in love w/it. I ask a few people about Jakkoin and find it. It is closed already, and I can see the large construction drapes around the bldgs. that burned down. I read that it was arson and I have the japanese word for arson written down but no one seems to know. I walk slowly back through the village and take lots of pics of the houses, roofs, gardens and sun setting. Saw some minshuku and think I will stay a night when I return.

Caught the 5:45 bus, it’s not the express 16 or 17 ( I think it was 27) but driver says it goes to Sanjo-Keihan and away we go.
_____________________________________

ARISHIYAMA:
We then took a cab to Kitano station ($6) and got on the small electric train to Arashiyama (220 yen). We talked to a British man who teaches in Kyoto while on the train, and he was so engages in talking w/us that he missed his stop. Arashiyama is touristy in the area right outside the station, w/lots of souveneir shops. (There is a separate JR station a bit further away from the river, another 10 min. walk). We walked out of the station and took a left to cross the long bridge over the side river. Even on a Monday afternoon there were lots of people.

After crossing the bridge we went right at the monkey sign, and took almost an immediate left to enter the monkey park. We paid at the entrance and then started the very steep 25 min. climb up to the park. As we got to the top, Celine turned and motioned for me to be quiet, as there was a big monkey on the path. We were both somewhat skiddish about walking past this large monkey, but we scooted by him together, and then realized that there were 5 other monkeys looking down at us from a tree. At the top of the small mountain is an open area w/ a hut. We were motioned inside by a researcher, and there we were able to buy apple slices and nuts to feed the monkeys through chain link windows. The monkeys are very active and jump onto the hut and swing off the windows, happily grabbing whatever is handed to them. It was clear who they dominant males are as when they jump on the windows, the other monkeys get out of their way and let them have the food. Celine especially enjoyed the baby monkeys, and she was brave enough to go outside to watch them (w/the researchers always standing between you and the monkeys). We spent about an hour here and were the only gaijin there. We really liked this place, it is very unique. The path down is not as steep as the one up.

We then crossed back over the bridge and walked a short way past a temple on the left side of the main street and took a left to walk through the Sagano Bamboo forest. It was a good thing I had 4 maps of the Kyoto area w/me this day (I used them all), and a really good thing I had the JNTO Kyoto Walks map, as it was by far the most accurate one of this area and the only one that had the bamboo forest on it. Walking on the path through the bamboo forest was very cool, especially hearing the huge bamboo “knock” together when the wind blew. Bamboo have leaves only at the very top of the stalk and they rustle nicely in the breeze also. We loved this walk.

I was a bit confused on how to get back to Kyoto but we decided to use the JR station and our JR passes. By the time we were at the end of the bamboo walk we were pretty far from the JR station and were tired. There is a small electric train that goes only one stop – from the end of the bamboo forest to a stop close to the JR station. We went to the window to try to get on it but the man said it would be 660 yen apiece. I thought this was way too much for one stop and declared that we would walk, using the JNTO map. Celine was a tropper and off we went, back through the bamboo forest and all the way to the JR station (a 30 min. walk).


tkic2 Jan 4th, 2007 09:19 PM

Thanks so much for your trip reviews, emd! I think I will go to Ohara. I want to see rural landscapes that are not touristy.

tkic2 Jan 4th, 2007 09:25 PM

Where can I find bus schedules to/from Ohara? Do they post them at bus stops?

emd Jan 5th, 2007 05:05 AM

I usually don't pay attention to bus schedules in Kyoto since they come pretty routinely and frequently. When we went to Ohara we just found the bus stop (we had to ask where it was when we got to Keihan-Sanjo station). We waited maybe 10-15 min. for that bus. What you need to pay attn. to is the timing of the last bus from Ohara back to Kyoto. That day, it was 5:45 pm. I found that out by looking at a schedule posted at the tiny bus depot at Ohara.

There might be bus schedules available when you get to Kyoto. You can check at the Tourist Information Counter (TIC) at Kyoto Station about that. I know they have bus route maps there. Your concierge will also have bus route maps.

BTW, the directions I gave in that post about how we got to the bus stop for Ohara were directions from the Westin Miyako. Don't worry too much, the concierge there can help you w/bus questions, timing, etc. Anything you don't figure out before going that has to do w/Kyoto, the conceirge there will help you with.

I see one more ? I now that I did not see before, regarding where to get shojin-ryori. We went to Daitokuji temple (close to the Golden Temple, just a 5 min. bus ride away from that one) and had shojin-ryopri in the temple restaurant, Isuzen, there. We had the concierge at our hotel make reservations for us, which are mandatory. I won't attach my review of that lunch here, because we did not like the food, although my daughter is vegetarian and we thought we would. It was just too weird texture-wise for us, but I know others like it. The temple restaurant at Daitokuji is famous for that food. Lunch is 3500 yen (only open noon-4pm).

There is another restaurant on the grounds of the same temple called Daitokuji Ikkyu that also serves shojin-ryori; I believe it serves a more traditional style rather than the style served at Isuzen.

I beleive another poster here (hawaiitraveler) went to another Isuzen location, I think at Kyoto Station (perhaps called Wakuden?), but now that I am looking online that location might serve kyo-ryori instead of shojin-ryori. You can also get shojin-ryori at Shigetsu (at Tenryuji temple)

Have you seen the food pages at "Kansai Food Page" website? They have listings and phone #s for all miknd of Buddhist cuisine restaurants in Kyoto.

See:
http://www.bento.com/kansai/kc-kyoryori.html

My daughter and I preferred the tofu cuisine in Kyoto. Don't miss that- the hot pot to boil your tofu in, sauces for it, accompanying veggies, etc. Very good.

Also, do not miss Nishiki food market. It sounds like you might be considering either Nishiki or one of the temple markets. Do both, as they are entirely different. Nishiki is centrally located. As you are walking down the covered shopping street, Teramachi-dori, from Shijo-dori, look up and you will see a sign overhead on your right about a block down that says "Nishiki-dori" w/a right arrow. Wonderful food shops and market atmosphere, great homemade sweets and Kyoto snacks to take home, spices, even sake.

Everything closes at Nishiki-dori at 6 pm sharp. It is nice to have a full day, then make your way to Nishiki-Dori around 4:30 to shop and browse, shop and walk on Teramachi-dori, have dinner there in the downtown area (many options, just walk around) and then have time to walk and shop and people watch in the downtown area which is a very happening place at night. Alternatively, visiting Teramachi-dori and Nishiki-dori on a rainy day is a good thing, as it is all covered.

emd Jan 5th, 2007 05:11 AM

Do you have this site? It is very good re Kyoto.

http://www.pref.kyoto.jp/visitkyoto/en/info_required/

tkic2 Jan 6th, 2007 12:58 AM

You've been most helpful, emd! Really appreciate your generous sharing.

Yes, I'll be including both Nishiki market and Kitano Shrine market in my itinerary. Will get to see plum blossoms at the shrine, which has more than 200 varieties, I read.

I love tofu, and will go to Okutan near Kiyomizu temple. Also on my list are 2 300-400 year-old soba restaurants (Owariya and Misoka-An Kawamichiya), Izusen for shojin-ryori, Yamatomi at Pontocho for oden (hotpot), and Omen for vegetable udon.

I'm using Diane Durston's "Old Kyoto" as a guide to visit some traditional shops in central and eastern Kyoto which are hundreds of years old and passed down from generation to generation.

Will also go to Nijo Jinya (mystery house with secret passageway ways), Raku museum, Fureaikan (museum of traditional crafts) and Ohara.




emd Jan 6th, 2007 01:05 AM

If you are really into Kyoto and its history and culture, you might like Judith Clancey's book, "Exploring Kyoto, On Foot in the Ancient Capital." Clancy is an American who has lived in Kyoto for 36 yrs., acting a guide and interpreter for many of her recent years there. She has an intense interest in the traditions of Kyoto.

emd Jan 6th, 2007 01:08 AM

oops, I wasn't done...Her writing style is very leisurely and allows you to walk her routes and explore in an informed way. I love this book and have used in on all my walks in Kyoto, through Higashiyama, the Philosopher's Path, in Fushimi and the area of Fushimi Inari, in Ohara, in Arashiyama, etc. It is a very enriching book. No pictures, but her writing is very visual and lovely.

see:
http://www.kyotoworkshops.com/judith_clancy.html

emd Jan 6th, 2007 01:17 AM

oh, and at this site, you can actually read portions of one of the walks in a chapter in her book to get a sense of her style.

http://www.geocities.jp/kamigyoclancy/

emd Jan 6th, 2007 02:46 AM

tkic2, will you please post a report about your trip when you get back? I'd really appreciate hearing about the places you go to from Durston's book, your time in Ohara, etc. If we have helped you here, please do us a favor and report back. I would really love to hear about your time in Kyoto, as I am longing to go back again and also have a particular interest in the cultural side of the city.

tkic2 Jan 6th, 2007 06:14 AM

emd, I will certainly post a trip report when I'm back from Kyoto. Thanks again for pointing me to so many excellent resources! When was your last trip, BTW?

Manisha Jan 6th, 2007 07:40 AM

tkic2, your comments about the plum blossoms got me thinking...
When we were in Kyoto, we visited a Shinto shrine called Kitano Denmangu. This shrine is dedicated to a famous leader who was a huge fan of plum trees. It is famous for a couple of reasons (1) Beautiful plum blossoms (we did not get to see as we went in December but the tour guide told us about this) (2) Lots of students come here before their examination season (they believe that if they visit the shrine and rub the head of the cow statues in the shrine, they will do well in their exams!)

If you are interested in seeing the plum blossoms, perhaps you can find out about this shrine and visit. Enjoy your trip - you will love Kyoto! It is beautiful and elegant.

emd Jan 6th, 2007 07:48 AM

You are on the same track. Kitano Denmangu shrine is where tkic2 is planning on going to the shrine market on Feb. 25th, the day of the memorial service for the scholar who loved plum blossoms at the same shrine that day.

emd Jan 6th, 2007 07:49 AM

tkic2, my last trip was in April 2006; first trip was March 2005.

emd Jan 6th, 2007 08:24 AM

oh one more thing. In case you are interested, Shoren-in, which I described in my post above, is short walking distance from Westin Miyako. Exit the hotel to the left going down the street in front of the hotel (Sanjo). Walk to the light a few blocks down on the left, and turn left at that street as if you are proceeding to Higashiyama (your concierge can tell you the name of the street). Shoren-in is a short distance on the left side of that street. If you proceed down that street a very short distance, you will be at Chion-in (much larger and more grand), and further down is Maruyama Park on the left, and Yasaka shrine on the right. Continuing further down the street takes you up into Higashiyama, past several other grand shrines and eventually reaching Kiyomizudera. We did this in a walk which took a full day on Sunday, as we stopped at several shrines, shopped at the little Higashiyama shops, and ended at Kiyomisudera where we had a nice udon meal around 5 pm at the outdoor restaurant perched extremely high on a cliff overlooking Kyoto at that shrine.

Westin Miyako is such a great location for exploring both the Path of Philosophy (it is at the end/start of that path) in one direction, and Higashiyama in the other direction. It is just really quiet a night around the Westin, though.

You are going to have a nice trip!

Manisha Jan 6th, 2007 09:05 AM

Oh, I see that now that tkic2 has mentioned the Kitano-Shrine. Thanks, emd, for pointing out! Silly me...

I enjoyed my visit to this Shrine. The area around the shrine is quite nice for walking around. The Shrine itself is quite beautiful - intricate roof work and built in the traditional style (layers of tree bark). Quite expensive to maintain but beautiful to look at! Enjoy!

emd Jan 6th, 2007 09:13 AM

tkic2, I see from a prior post that all of Jakkoin's bldgs (the old convent in Ohara) reopened as of June 1, 2005. I went there in March 205 and they were closed, so I thought you'd be interested in knowing that it has all reopeend.

here is the post from 6/27/05:

Rotenburo's response: my family and I stayed at the Chaya minshuku in Ohara 6/23-26 and used Ohara as our base for seeing Kyoto - we drove, so staying out of the center of Kyoto was do-able. My wife and I walked up to Jakkoin early on Saturday morning, but the gates were closed, as were all the fascinating pottery shops along the way (we looked in the windows, though). The inn-keeper's wife answered your question. According to her, Jakkoin's buildings were all finished and reopened on June 1.


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