Trip to India Feb 1-18

Old Nov 4th, 2017, 07:24 AM
  #1  
jft
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Trip to India Feb 1-18

We are 2 couples age 60, one whose son is living in Mumbai. We have booked flights to India arriving from Toronto Feb 1/2018 with one couple leaving late Feb 17th ;the other couple a few days later. We fly into New Delhi and out of Mumbai. First shot of an itinerary is a couple days in Delhi then one overnight in Agra- return to Delhi for flight to Kolkata. 3-4 days in Kolcata- fly to Cochin, Kerala region. From there ?train/plane to Mumbai.
I have read some posts with lots of suggestions for Kerala region; less information on Delhi and Kolcata. How does this sound for first crack at itinerary? Do you recommend the train versus the plane from Cochin or somewhere in the area. Looks like the Doronto train leaves on Feb 14th at 930 pm arriving the next evening in Mumbai. It seems like the most logical place to experience a train trip /sleeper car in India on this itinerary.....or better just to fly....
So far only flights are confirmed.....
Thanks
jft is offline  
Old Nov 4th, 2017, 07:47 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,609
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Forget Kolkata. It's the other side of the sub-continent and two of the big four is plenty for one trip.

Use the time for places like Coonoor, (take the toy train to Ooty), Mysore and/or Coorg. Or at the Mumbai end, Aurangabad for Ajanta and Ellora.
thursdaysd is offline  
Old Nov 4th, 2017, 08:51 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Greetings, jft.
You say flights are confirmed. Which flights? The ones between Canada and India, and/or intra-India flights?

Your son is in Mumbai. How long do you want to spend there? You mention a train to Mumbai, but arrival on Feb 15th evening doesn't leave much time before departure home to Canada.

Please clarify "Doronto" as the starting point fur the train. Is that perhaps a typo?

For me, a nearly 24 hour train ride is wayyy too long.
Does your desired experience have to include the sleeper car you mention? If you want a relatively brief but delightful train ride, consider the Nilgiri Mountain Toy Train (and its surrounding areas eg Coonoor) as mentioned above by Thursdaysd.
CaliNurse is offline  
Old Nov 5th, 2017, 04:45 AM
  #4  
jft
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks thursdaysd and Calinurse for your replies.
It is not my son but my friend's son and they will be staying longer in Mumbai. Our international direct flights have been confirmed arriving in Delhi on the first of February and for us departing Mumbai around midnight on the 17th of February. Nothing else has been booked at this time.
I think my friend had a strong interest in going to Kolkata. There is some Jewish history of note. I get that it requires precious time wasted in transit. I will discuss it.
In Kochi area I was thinking about one night in Munnar, also taking local ferry in backwater area-.....I was thinking the Ooty area suggested would be similar to the Munnar experience. Mysuru looks interesting to me.
If we opted to taking the train we would depart from Kochi or more north of there to Mumbai- sleeper train. I randomly picked a train ride leaving on Feb 14th as it looked like the Doronto train which leaves on the wednesday northbound was the shortest duration. 20 plus hours seemed a bit excessive. Taking a train in India sounded like an interesting experience however it doesn't need to be a sleeper train and it is not a necessary thing for us to do. Similar trains could be taken from Goa however we are not so interested in spending time at a beach resort.
Flying to Mumbai is another option from Kochi or elsewhere.

I had read someone's experience at Chandoori Sai guest house in Orissa (Goudaguda) area which sounded fabulous (pottery area, not too touristy, to get a glimpse of India away from big cities but it seemed too hard to get to. Something like that appeals to me....
From Kolkata to Cochin ( Kochi) is not a direct flight(options include Chennai or Bangalore.Just mentioning it.
Re accommodations once we have a grip on itinerary that will be next task. I already saw that the Harbour Hotel in Kochi was booked. We are looking for comfortable, clean accommodations with good hospitality.
Sorry for being all over the map with this and India is a big map!
I appreciate your comments!
jft is offline  
Old Nov 5th, 2017, 04:56 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,609
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
There is Jewish history in Kochi as well, including a synagogue.

Orissa is reachable by train from Kolkata, but you only have a couple of weeks and India does not lend itself to fast travel. Choose the east or the southwest.

It has been quite a while since I was in Kochi, but I believe that Malabar House, which I loved, still gets good reviews:

http://www.malabarhouse.com/index1.html

Have you read up on Indian train travel on seat61.com? I have taken a number of Indian trains, but if I am doing a night train I want to get off in the morning so I can check into a hotel and get a shower.

The second half of this includes my first trip to India, during which I visited Kolkata, Orissa, Mysore and Kochi. However, I spent ten weeks in India, not two.

http://wilhelmswords.com/asia2001/
thursdaysd is offline  
Old Nov 5th, 2017, 06:17 AM
  #6  
jft
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the engaging account of your amazing trip to India! What a treat to read- did you ever publish it? Love the wedding invite. One of the joys of Fodors.com forums is the accounts and suggestions by seasoned travelers.
I will definitely look into the Malabar Hotel once our itinerary is decided. I recently used seat61.com and then booked on their suggestion of www.trainline.eu for a rail trip in France we returned from this past Sunday.
We will see about train rides....
jft is offline  
Old Nov 5th, 2017, 06:35 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,609
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thanks jft! I did look into selling travel articles after I got home, but so soon after 9/11 there was no interest. It was a wonderful trip, though.
thursdaysd is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2017, 04:03 AM
  #8  
jft
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have read that some have preferred their time in Tamil Nadu more than their time in Kerala. Where in particular in Tamil Nadu without hopping all around would one suggest? Is it because of the temples? or are there interesting towns/places to wander about? Is Thekkady like Munnar?
How much time would one allot to Kerala...Is it best to move around ( one-two nights kochi; one Munnar, should another destination in this region be added or can one commute?
Coming from Kolkata would it be best to go in and out of Kochi or in one airport and out another to get to Mumbai. It looks like from Kolcata it is necessary to have a transferto get to Kochi but enroute to Mumbai some places like Kochi have a direct flight. I am thinking flying is the way to go versus the train.
How many days to allocate for Kolkata not including travel days- 3?
jft is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2017, 04:44 AM
  #9  
jft
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Draft Itinerary
Feb 1 Thurs evening  arrive Delhi from Toronto overnight Delhi
Feb 2 Fri Delhi overnight Delhi
Feb 3 Sat driver to Agra overnight Agra
Feb 4 Sun Agra ; drive to DEL ?stay near airport
Feb 5 Mon morning flight to Kolkata
Feb 6 Tues Kolkata
Feb 7 Wed Kolkata
Feb 8 Thurs Kolkata
Feb 9 Friday am  Flights to ?Kerala/Tamil Nadu (NO DIRECT FLIGHTS)
Feb 9-14 Kerala/Tamil Nadu
Feb 15  fly to Mumbai
Feb 15-17 Mumbai
Feb 17 Friday near midnight  Fly Mumbai to Toronto
Feb 19  friends fly Mumbai to Toronto

Might just do Kerala or combine with part of Tamil Nadu. Not sure number of days in Mumbai
jft is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2017, 01:09 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
See Feb 9 on the itinerary. There ARE direct flights Kolkata to Tamil Nadu, i.e. you can fly nonstop directly between Kolkata and Chennai. However, see my below. In this itinerary , "something's gotta give."

For interesting Jewish history, as mentioned by Thrursdaysd, there is in Fort Cochin the synagogue, and surrounding neighborhood of Jewtown, and two hotels once owned by the Koder family in Fort Cochin (Koder House and Old Courtyard). These hotels are in in the same area as Old Harbour (not surprised by no availability -I stayed but booked far in advance) and the recommended Malabar House.

You do NOT have enough time Feb 9-14 to see both Tamil Nadu and Kerala. However, it is do-able, though rushed, to visit that area over a ten day period (Feb 5-15 on your itinerary )... IF you eliminate Kolkata. You could fly nonstop DEL to Chennai, proceed south from there, see some of the highlights (temples tons, Chettinad) cross over into Kerala, visit its highlights (Munnar, the backwaters around Alleppey) finish with a couple nights in Fort Cochin, then fly directly to Mumbai.

"Might just do Kerala or combine with part of Tamil Nadu. Not sure number of days in Mumbai." So, figure out why/if you all want to veer in a completely different direction to Kolkata, decide if that is important to your group, and revise your itinerary accordingly.

Save Chandoorisai for another trip. Having met a well-traveled-through- through-India couple who were there and loved it, I too hope to get there some day. However, for this trip, it is wayyyy off the path of other places you mention, especially within the time you have.
CaliNurse is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2017, 08:54 PM
  #11  
jft
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sorry, I was as clear as mud in my attempt at an itinerary description. The tentative plan is to fly from Kolkata to Kerala area which does not have direct flights south of Chennai or Bengalore. I think Kolkata is appealing in its own way. I realize something has to give.
So far I am thinking visiting Kochi and Munnar.....not sure if we should add another destination in Kerala or do a day trip. We are not interested in staying in a houseboat in Kerala (sounds too crowded on the waterways) however a half day trip out of Kochi with Salmon Tours is appealing.
I realized that Chandoorisai could not fit into this itinerary but found an intriguing description of someone's stay there, not just the facility but the village experience. Is there somewhere in Kerala that offers the off the beaten track feel?
Thanks for your patience. I have reserved a couple more guidebooks from the library.
jft is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2017, 09:47 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
so...no Tamil Nadu, right?

You are very correct about the houseboats. There are far too many clogging the backwaters as they have become so popular.
Ft Cochin is wonderful, a great place for having a wander.
If you don't want to stay at a hotel or homestay on the backwaters or lake, a day trip from Kochi is good for showing the area. One of the Fodorites named RJE wrote a fabulous India trip report in which he recommends just such a trip. Search for India trip reports and his should be there.--look for the section on South India.
there's also a trip report from Sartoric about her time in South India, in which she mentions a little known homestay called Ann's I think. If I recall right, it was in a quiet area and might appeal for a quieter village experience. There are many Kerala homestays, where you are staying in an ensuite room on the family house on the spice or other plantation. You might also have that experience at a place along the backwaters of Kerala--you can walk to the villages that line the waterways. Again check assorted India trip reports . I believe California Lady describes that in her trip report--see the Alleppey section.
CaliNurse is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2017, 11:36 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I suppose,if I've got it right you have 5 days in Kerala.Some good first hand advice from experience fodorites above.

My house boat experience too was not very good.Very humid and hot during the day.The whole boat rocked as another went by.This happened through the day.Technically sea sick without actually sailing!Soon shifted to a resort in Kumarakom.It took a day more for the feeling of the bed rocking, even after shifting to the resort,to wane!

Let me just address the Kerala part of your trip.

Start in Kochi,spend a couple of days there and make your way to Coimbatore( via Valparai) and fly out to Mumbai.

Another lovely place to spend a couple of nights is Valparai,found it much better than Munnar.Its actually about 150kms from Kochi on the border and in Tamilnadu.

The drive from Kochi is about 4.5 hrs and its the most breathtaking journeys I've ever undertaken in South India.It
takes you through some of the virgin rainforests of the Western Ghats and the beautiful Athirapally & Vazhacha water falls.

If this interests you I'll probably give a detailed description of route and beautiful places to stay in Valparai and Coimbatore,with links where you could book direct.
inquest is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2017, 11:41 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Or the other way around would work too. Fly into Coimbatore.Journey through Valparai to Kochi.Fly out to Mumbai.
inquest is offline  
Old Nov 7th, 2017, 03:41 AM
  #15  
jft
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks so much. All posts are helpful. I read both posts mentioned and RJE's gave me the idea about the half day boat trip as well as the yearning to cover Tamil Nadu. I like your ideas Inquest re going in one airport and out the other. I will look up journey through Valparai. Not sure if others are like me but I really enjoy the challenge of researching trips and finding hidden jewels.
jft is offline  
Old Nov 12th, 2017, 03:20 AM
  #16  
jft
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Inquest, I would like the details of Coimbatore to Kochi or reverse with links. It looks like we may arrive from Kolkata on Feb 8 and leave for Mumbai later on the 14th.
Thanks
jft is offline  
Old Nov 12th, 2017, 10:08 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Jet, pl give me a couples of days will give you details. Been travelling.
inquest is offline  
Old Nov 12th, 2017, 04:37 PM
  #18  
jft
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
No problem.
BIG CHANGE. We are now eliminating Kolkata from itinerary! Plan is to spend more time in golden Triangle area and then head south toward Kerala. Changes things but I think for the better. I will read a lot of posts and work on a new itinerary.
jft is offline  
Old Nov 14th, 2017, 04:40 AM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well.Well, sad to hear that Kolkata is out of your India travel plan. It’s certainly a jewel in the crown. Every fodorite here, who has been to Kolkata ( infact West Bengal) will agree with me that it’s a culturally very rich State that delineates itself by its uniqueness from the rest of North India. Saints, god-men, philosophers, thinkers,intellects, poets, artists to music,dance, crafts and its festivals with all their colourful rituals, splendour and traditions,amalgamate together to give a true reflection & a perfect blend of modernity and tradition.

Good in a way that it fell through. I’m sure you wouldn’t have done justice to a remarkable City of Kolkata & State of West Bengal,in just 4 days. Trust me.It’s worth getting back for, some day.
I second your thoughts.Focusing more on the ‘Golden Triangle’ (for which, many fodorites in here,are hands on experts) and Kerala (including parts of Tamilnadu)
I also presume that with the elimination of Kolkata you’ll have those days to spare betw GT and Kerala.
Would strongly recommend adding another couple of days to your Southern jaunt.As you evinced keen interest in both the States starting Coimbatore…….let’s get working on it. For that I need to take you for a quick run up,in the annals of history, to the 'Gounders’ of the Coimbatore region..

In Tamilnadu, like Chettinad region ( ruled by Chettiars of Karaikudi), the Kongunad ( ruled by the Gounders) has a distinct identity of its own. The region near Coimbatore, a town called Pollachi(1 1/2 hrs from the airport) is a place to start. Verdant rice fields, coconut groves, lush green farmlands all at the foothills of the majestic mountains of the western ghat, which you’ll eventually ascend & touch the skies at the misty tea gardens of Valparia and the Anamalais, as you make your way towards coastal Kerala.

This blessed & fertile expanse of earth is managed by a powerful farming community aka the Gounders. The ‘Zamindars’ or Landlords owned and cultivated vast tracts of land. They ruled the kingdom for ages. Their cuisine are as distinct to that region,as I can only recommend them to a palate which is more familiar to south Indian cuisine. We shall explore the possibility in due course.
They built magnificent ornate homes for themselves,one of which is now a heritage home, that I would recommend for a wonderful experience.Take a bullock-cart ride into the paddy fields,with your favorite bottle of wine for a sundowner. They serve only vegetarian fare and no alcohol permited inside the premises.The paddy field shouldn’t carry the same (set of rules) ban I suppose. In India,there is always a way around.Practice the head-wobble

This beautiful heritage property is the Shenbaga Vilasam.
http://www.shenbagavilaasam.in/
Would recommend a minimum of a 2 nights stay. Lots to do around here. We’ll take it step by step before treading uphill.
…more to follow ..awaiting your response…
inquest is offline  
Old Nov 15th, 2017, 04:18 PM
  #20  
jft
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So at this moment the trip has shifted. We arrive Feb 1 Delhi- Agra-Jaipur direct flight to Chennai(around feb 6) then Puducherry.................ending up in Kerala before flying from Kochi to Mumbai on Feb 15. Not so much time....not sure if we will go to hill via Munnar or perhaps via Valparai area.....So much is up in the air....
jft is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -