Trip report HK-BKK-Angkor (Part 1- HK)
Nov 3rd, 2005, 07:06 PM
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Trip report HK-BKK-Angkor (Part 1- HK)
Just back from a fascinating second-anniversary trip to southeast Asia. First time back to HK since the handover, and second visit to Bangkok. Angkor was unbelievable -- the size, number, and artistry of these temples is truly stunning. It is really one of those must-see places. A few random thoughts on HK:
1. Used AmEx points to book the Intercontinental Kowloon -- usually I prefer to stay on HK Island, I like the vibe there better -- Kowloon is so shopping-oriented -- but this time we got upsold into a jr. suite with a stunning harbor view. It was well worth the extra $200/night -- you could just sit there and look at the island skyline and light show all night. Staff was pleasant, highly recommended. Great exercise room and pool area too.
2. We had one of the strangest restaurant experiences ever -- one of the best meals I've ever had, followed by maybe the worst, short of Moscow in the Soviet days. Based on some recommendations on this board, we booked the very hip-looking Hutong for my wife's birthday dinner. That day we were strolling on the island and stopped into Ye Shanghai at Pacific Place for lunch, as it had also been recommended. The Ye lunch was phenominally good -- prawns in chili sauce, dumplings, bok choi w/mushrooms -- just delicious. So our expectations were high going into Hutong, in a Kowloon hi-rise with a great harbor view and very cool decor. MISTAKE! What a disaster! The food was simply inedible. I tend to prefer Shanghai, Hunan and Sichuan to the blander Cantonese, but I have eaten many kinds of Chinese food everywhere from Beijing to London. Never have I had a worse meal -- and it cost over US$100! First, the menu contained close to 50 items, and we started to worry when we really couldn't find anything that looked good -- things like "shark lips" in some kind of sauce, lamb ribs, a lot of "organs" -- perhaps this is what real Chinese delicacies are. But again, I am not exactly a Chungking-from-a-can guy -- I've had great meals in Hong Kong, such as at Ye that very day. The first course was these barely-steamed asparagus that were dipped in a thick coating of sesame seeds -- not appetizing. That turned out to be the only thing we could eat. The prawns came in that slimy, clear sauce that you often see in Cantonese food and had absolutely no taste. Worse, the "fried" squid were nothing like the wonderful chili-calamari of San Fran's pan-Asian Betelnut, but were again in the clear slimy sauce and tasted like soap. We had a bite or two of each and simply couldn't eat any more, it was revolting. We paid up and left. That has never happened to me in my life. The staff were fine, but we were obviously in the wrong place. I hope not to offend anyone who enjoys this food, but as someone fairly experienced with different kinds of Chinese food, we were hugely disappointed. And for the nice expensive birthday dinner no less. We ended up going down to one of the busy Kowloon alleys and having a great bowl of hot-sour dumpling soup for US$5 each.
3. The peak-tram ride and 45-minute hike around the peak is still one of the best half-day trips you can do in Hong Kong -- seeing the city from above is stunning.
4. The new airport is wonderful, a model for what a large airport should be. A pleasure to fly through.
5. Despite booking problems in August, we had a decent stay at the Disneyland Hollywood Hotel on the way back to the States, for only HK$1100. The taxi there was only about HK$120, and despite the hordes of excited kids, it was easy to get in and out of. Clean, comfortable rooms in a bit of an overdone Art Deco style. Not as convenient as the Regent airport, but far less expensive and easier than going back into the city. And we got to see the entrance to the park before it opened the next morning.
Bangkok next...
1. Used AmEx points to book the Intercontinental Kowloon -- usually I prefer to stay on HK Island, I like the vibe there better -- Kowloon is so shopping-oriented -- but this time we got upsold into a jr. suite with a stunning harbor view. It was well worth the extra $200/night -- you could just sit there and look at the island skyline and light show all night. Staff was pleasant, highly recommended. Great exercise room and pool area too.
2. We had one of the strangest restaurant experiences ever -- one of the best meals I've ever had, followed by maybe the worst, short of Moscow in the Soviet days. Based on some recommendations on this board, we booked the very hip-looking Hutong for my wife's birthday dinner. That day we were strolling on the island and stopped into Ye Shanghai at Pacific Place for lunch, as it had also been recommended. The Ye lunch was phenominally good -- prawns in chili sauce, dumplings, bok choi w/mushrooms -- just delicious. So our expectations were high going into Hutong, in a Kowloon hi-rise with a great harbor view and very cool decor. MISTAKE! What a disaster! The food was simply inedible. I tend to prefer Shanghai, Hunan and Sichuan to the blander Cantonese, but I have eaten many kinds of Chinese food everywhere from Beijing to London. Never have I had a worse meal -- and it cost over US$100! First, the menu contained close to 50 items, and we started to worry when we really couldn't find anything that looked good -- things like "shark lips" in some kind of sauce, lamb ribs, a lot of "organs" -- perhaps this is what real Chinese delicacies are. But again, I am not exactly a Chungking-from-a-can guy -- I've had great meals in Hong Kong, such as at Ye that very day. The first course was these barely-steamed asparagus that were dipped in a thick coating of sesame seeds -- not appetizing. That turned out to be the only thing we could eat. The prawns came in that slimy, clear sauce that you often see in Cantonese food and had absolutely no taste. Worse, the "fried" squid were nothing like the wonderful chili-calamari of San Fran's pan-Asian Betelnut, but were again in the clear slimy sauce and tasted like soap. We had a bite or two of each and simply couldn't eat any more, it was revolting. We paid up and left. That has never happened to me in my life. The staff were fine, but we were obviously in the wrong place. I hope not to offend anyone who enjoys this food, but as someone fairly experienced with different kinds of Chinese food, we were hugely disappointed. And for the nice expensive birthday dinner no less. We ended up going down to one of the busy Kowloon alleys and having a great bowl of hot-sour dumpling soup for US$5 each.
3. The peak-tram ride and 45-minute hike around the peak is still one of the best half-day trips you can do in Hong Kong -- seeing the city from above is stunning.
4. The new airport is wonderful, a model for what a large airport should be. A pleasure to fly through.
5. Despite booking problems in August, we had a decent stay at the Disneyland Hollywood Hotel on the way back to the States, for only HK$1100. The taxi there was only about HK$120, and despite the hordes of excited kids, it was easy to get in and out of. Clean, comfortable rooms in a bit of an overdone Art Deco style. Not as convenient as the Regent airport, but far less expensive and easier than going back into the city. And we got to see the entrance to the park before it opened the next morning.
Bangkok next...
Nov 3rd, 2005, 08:23 PM
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hi
pity about hutong! At least I hope you got a good view! I remember looking at the menu, thinking is this really northern Chinese?? I couldn't recognise any of the dishes. In the end, we could eat the stuff but it was highly overpriced.
I haven't been to Ye Shanghai, but heard it is good. My favourite Shanghai resto in HK is Yi Jiang Nan on Staunton Street - maybe you'll pass back through HK...
pity about hutong! At least I hope you got a good view! I remember looking at the menu, thinking is this really northern Chinese?? I couldn't recognise any of the dishes. In the end, we could eat the stuff but it was highly overpriced.
I haven't been to Ye Shanghai, but heard it is good. My favourite Shanghai resto in HK is Yi Jiang Nan on Staunton Street - maybe you'll pass back through HK...
Nov 3rd, 2005, 08:42 PM
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Hutong's menu is definitely Northern Chinese. Never been there, but they probably have a modern interpretation of the cuisine.
Chinese food from different parts do taste different. But I can't say why the OP doesn't like it.
Chinese food from different parts do taste different. But I can't say why the OP doesn't like it.
Nov 3rd, 2005, 10:09 PM
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I've never been to Hutong for dinner but been there a number of times for lunch and have really enjoyed the food...never had the kind of problem Clark mentioned where the menu is too offbeat...lunch IMO represents great VFM coz a great daytime harbour view at fab prices
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