Trip report from March visit
 

Having returned two weeks ago from an incredible trip to Thailand, I have been meaning to post my report every day and only now am getting around to it.

First, here was our itinerary:

* Bangkok - 2 nights at the Old Bangkok Inn
* Fly to Chiang Rai where we rented a car and drove to the Golden Triangle -- 3 nights at the Anantara
* Drive to Chiang Mai where we flew to Mae Hong Son -- two nights at the Fern Resort
* Fly from Mae Hong Son to Phuket -- two nights at the Arahmas Resort
* Speedboat to Phi Phi Don -- two nights at Phitarom Resort
* Back to Phuket for one night then flight to Bangkok for the last night before flying home




We arrived in Bangkok late at night so decided to call it a night.

However, we were awake bright and early before the sun rose so, in our usual form, we decided to plunge right in since we were keen to get out and explore.

The morning started at Chatuchak, the enormous market which they say draws crowds of more than 100,000 people during a weekend. I've been dying to see this place for months and it did not disappoint. We headed out there at 7:30am after breakfast in our inn (a $3 taxi ride which took 25 minutes) and stayed until after 1pm. What an amazing whirlwind of stuff! Everything from hand-painted 6-foot tall paintings to plastic flowers, hanging lights, jewellery, cheap t-shirts, Thai silk scarves, hand carved elephants, and dozens and dozens of tiny little puppies and kittens for sale (interestingly enough, they were the only ones in air-conditioned stalls). And of course the food -- vats and pots and woks of noodles, soups, vegetables as well as lots of unidentifyable stuff.

After hours of browsing, shopping and eating, we took the Sky Train across the city back to the Old Bangkok Inn where we had a quick shower to prepare us for the next onslaught of 90+ degree temperatures, and on to the next adventure - a visit to the Grand Palace. After being told it was closed and that we could not get in (our first scam of the day), we proceeded to march through the gates and wandered, awe-struck, through the wondrous buildings covered in gold, mirrors, handpainted tile and hanging chimes. We sat on the floor in the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and watched an orange-clad monk make a call on his cellphone. And we marvelled at this city of contrasts where millions are spent on gold and precious jewels to adorn the temples while poverty-stricken one-legged men drag themselves through the Sukhumvit begging for coins.

After the Palace, we went down to the river and caught a boat-bus to our next stop. We were befriended by "John the lawyer" who had a friend in Massachusetts and promised to email us on our return. We crammed into the boat with dozens of others and sped along the river until we arrived at the spot to catch the Sky Train to the massage which had been booked for us by our hotel. And here's where we experienced our next scam.

While looking at the map for the train stops, a smiling fellow offered to help and asked where we were going. Where were we from? Where were we doing? We told him about the massage and he looked disappointed. "Oh no, you don't want to go to this area for a massage. It is much better near your hotel. These places in Nana are for tourists, charge a lot and are likely to hurt you. Much better to experience some of the good shopping in Bangkok. I can tell you about a place where they make local Thai products; great deals; beautiful stuff". He worked in a bank, was so very helpful and kind and we were grateful for the advise and wondered if we were doing the right thing in getting a massage. However, we continued along our journey.

As we got off the train, a middle aged woman approached me. "Oh, hello. I know you from the hotel". My word, what a small world. She was sweet and kind and friendly. Where are we going? "Oh no, not a good place for a massage. Much better to go to a place where we can find good local products. The people at this massage place are not good and might hurt you."

Swept away by the friendliness and kindness of strangers, we decided to rethink our plans. Let's go to the place where they sell good local products and forget about the massage. "Follow me. I'm going that way and then I'm going home," said the sweet Thai lady. We did. Took the train, got into a taxi (with her guidance) and arrived at a sterile three story building which sold gems and silk clothing. Not quite our style. In fact, so NOT our style that we walked in, walked around for three minutes, and walked out.

Then it twigged. My street-savvy husband looked at me and said "Do you think we were just scammed?". No way. How could that be? We had just met two lovely Thai people who, coincidentally, felt the same way. We started to think about it. How could it have been such a coincidence that they said the same words and told us the same things? How come we didn't recognize the woman from the hotel (when there were only three people working there!). How come the man was on the phone as we left the train? It was one of those AHA moments! It was incredibly slick and clever and as worldly and well-travelled as we believe ourselves to be, we took the bait completely!

So now we'd blown off the massage, we decided to explore on our own terms and made our way to Sukhumvit where we were going for drinks later that evening. After getting lost for a bit, we ended up at our destination -- the Bed Supperclub. The door rolled upwards like the entrance to a flying saucer and we walked into this high-tech stark white and neon restaurant/bar fitted with white leather beds for dining or drinking. Sitting at the "bar" (reclining on a bed), we soaked in the air-conditioning, a couple of high-priced drinks and a plate of calamari and realized we were getting just a wee bit tired. So we headed out, hailed a taxi and went to Chinatown for dinner. Or so we thought. We were now on "overload" and were reeling from a day of stimulation and Chinatown was one more busy, overwhelming area that was a bit too much for our frazzled senses and blistered feet.

So we ended up in a little Thai spot (called "Thai Food" from what I could see on the sign) had a bowl of pad thai, a plate of chicken with cashew nuts, a beer and two waters (all for $8) then hit the sack!

wow, great start. Sorry you experienced the bad side of Thai hospitality so soon. Hope the rest of your trip went better.

Aloha!

Great start is right. All these Thai trip reports are getting me more nad more psyched for Sept. trip. Looking forward to more.

Keep it coming. It always amazes me how a few scam artists can sully the reputation of such a wonderful people. Two weeks is well within the time limit, no penalty

great start....

i have never read about anyone arriving from overseas, having a few hours sleep and then doing both the weekend market and the grand palace in one day and then doing even more!!

Sorry for stopping so abruptly after writing about only one day! I have so much to write about and all of it wonderful so I really didn't mean to start with a negative -- in fact, we were rather amused by the whole thing as it gave us a jolly good story as well as making us realize that even we (who considered ourselves savvy travellers) could be scammed. There was no harm done and all it cost us was a little time out of our way :-)

In the meantime, the following day took a very different turn as we headed out of Bangkok to do a cycling trip along the back roads and canals around the floating market.
We went with an organization called Spice Roads, which was fantastic. They picked us up at the hotel early that morning and we drove with the driver and Nee, our delightful guide and cyclist, to first visit the floating market.
I realize there have been several posts about the merits of visiting this market. For us, it was one of the highlights of the trip. The colors, sights, smells and sounds of this incredible spot summed up so much of the beauty of this country that I would suggest making it a "must see". Not for the shopping but for the experience.
Granted, we did incorporate it with a full day outing and it would be a long ride just to visit the market and then return to Bangkok but I would suggest finding a way to include it in your schedule.
After lingering here for about an hour, purchasing steaming scallion pancakes from one of the boats and tasting fruit from the vendors, we were whisked off in a longtailed boat to begin our cycling adventure.
The brochure says this is a simple ride and I have not ridden for quite some time and would recommend it for anyone who can ride a bike. The first bit was a little wobbly as we were riding along the canals with dogs and children and women doing laundry, so I was a little nervous about going headlong into a canal -- but it got better when it opened up into small, dirt roads which led through the regions which one would never see otherwise. We visited Ban Khoi Noi and Ban Bung before stopping for lunch at Suan Rim Nam (one of the best meals we had on the trip with multiple plates of delicious siimple Thai dishes). I will also remember this as the moment when I learned (from Nee) to eat fresh pineapple covered with fresh chile -- very tasty and spicy!

After lunch, we continued for a while and stopped at a couple of temples (and a Catholic church) then piled back into the van, doused ourselves with water after a day of 90 degree heat and passed out for the ride back to the hotel.

Going from one extreme to another, we went that night for dinner in Sirocco, the open air restaurant on the 65th floor of The Dome in Bangkok. I can honestly say that, in walking into the place, it took my breath away. Suspended high over the lights of Bangkok with twinkling lights and candles on the tables, it was like nothing I have ever seen.
The food was good -- not great -- and the prices are high (even by western standards) but I would go again in a heartbeat.
More later on the rest of the trip.

loving the report....day two was a full day also...

Great report Gabi! Thanks for posting. I look forward to the next installment(s).

Since there was so much we did during our time in Thailand, I'm figuring I shouldn't go into so much detail with every day so will give somewhat of an abridged version of the rest of the trip.

One thing I did want to mention was our thoughts about the Old Bangkok Inn. While the people were gracious and lovely, the accommodations were not the most comfortable. We stayed in the Orchid Room, which is a loft suite, and the staircase in the room was very steep and precarious to climb. We are both agile and in good shape and thought that anyone who might be elderly or unable to move easily would have a very hard time getting up and down (particularly if you have to get up in the night since the bathroom is downstairs -- and rather miniscule in size).

Anyway, back to the trip report. After leaving Bangkok, we flew to Chiang Rai (on the wonderful Bangkok Air) and there rented a car through Avis to drive to the Golden Triangle. Driving in Thailand (in the spots we travelled) was easy and uncomplicated and we were were able to find our way there with no problem.
We stayed for three nights at the Anantara Golden Triangle which is truly one of the loveliest properties we've ever stayed in. Not only is it beautiful to see, it is extremely comfortable and the service could not be more gracious and hospitable. I'm afraid to say that staying at the Anantara has spoiled us for life and we will always compare the service and attention to detail to any other spot we visit.
During our stay at the Anantara, we indulged in daily massages which were also among the best ever. On the first day, my husband and I were getting the Ayurvedic massage in a candle-lit, aroma-scented room when we heard a sound outside. "What was that?". It was the trumpeting of the elephants passing by. How can you beat that??

We also took the cooking class at the Anantara. While more expensive than most other cooking schools I'd seen advertised, this was worth every baht. We first accompanied the chef to a fascinating market in the nearby village where we bought spices to take home and felt completely enmeshed in the culture of Thai grocery shopping.
After the market, we stopped at an ancient temple for breakfast and then spent several hours in an incredibly beautiful kitchen, equipped with marble countertops, our own shining woks and a bottle of wine to sip while learning about the delicious dishes from the chef. After the class, we were presented with a certificate, our own aprons as well as a recipe book of dishes to take home.

Also during our stay at the Golden Triangle, we ventured into the nearby town of Sop Ruak (about 5 mins from the resort) where there were masses of wonderful items to purchase from streetside vendors -- silk scarves, bags, shirts, trinkets, jewellery, and more, as well as some quaint little riverside restaurants (complete with cats lounging on the dirt floors) where the food was delicious and cost somewhere around $2 for a main course.

Another recommendation I have for this area is the Opium museum which is stunning in its design and approach to the opium situation and how it was handled by the Thai society and government. It is across the street from the Anantara and definitely worth a visit.

And before ending this post, I would be remiss not to mention one of the most wonderful parts of the Anantara -- the elephant camp. Each day, we strolled down to visit the elephants and, on the second day, the baby elephant escaped from its enclosure and played tag with my husband! An experience which will live with us forever.

After our stay in the Anantara, we planned to drive to Chiang Mai for our flight to Mae Hong Son and noticed two routes on the map -- one which took the highway and the other which wound around through the countryside.
Wanting to do something more adventurous, we were leaning toward the country route but the Thai people in the hotel suggested it would be better to take the highway. Luckily, however, we asked the GM (who is English) who informed us that Thais tend to be conservative and that we should definitely take the country road as it was much more scenic. We did and it was.

More later....

Massage, massage, massage, my kind of tourism.

glad you liked the anantara....it is a lovely spot...

how much was the cooking school now?...when we went a couple of years ago it was cheaper than most in bkk..

did you get to doi tung?

Hi Rhkkmk,

The cooking school at the Anantara is 3,600 baht (a little over $100) per person. Unfortunately we did not make it to Doi Tung as we took a wrong turn (I think) but we indulged in lots of their lovely coffee and have brought back quite a bit for ourselves.

With regard to the massages, they were also not cheap (after all it is the Anantara) but they were so splendid and luxurious that you would never find anything like that for the price in the States (and they balanced out the incredibly cheap massages we found in other places around the country)

Looking forward to more. We you bothered by the smoke in Chang Rai or Chang Mai that a few others on this board have mentioned?? We are thinking of going there next March.

The air quality conditions in Chiang Mai, Golden Triangle and Mae Hong Son did not affect us in any way other than obscuring views from places where we should have seen them.
Even though it was rather smoky, we hiked outdoors, elephant trekked, rode on boats and didn't find it difficult at all to continue with our plans.
I'd say if anyone has respiratory problems it may be a different story as there was certainly smoke in the air but I wouldn't let it hold you back.

Gabi - Thanks for your quick response, my son and I are both asthmatics, but with our medications it doesn't stop us from doing anything. One more question, were mosquitoes a problem for you? My daughter tends to be a target for them. The air quality and mosquitoes are the only two negatives so far, so trying to minimize their impact. Thanks!!

Mosquitos were present but not a huge problem. My husband didn't get bitten at all. I did -- quite a bit -- but we both used mosquito repellent as much as possible.
Even with these "negative" aspects to the trip, the positives so enormously outweighed them and we loved every minute of it.
Feel free to email me directly at [email protected] if you want to get more information offline.

Gabi7,
Really enjoying your report! I had forgotten about the shops in Chiang Sean....did you make it up the hill to see the Giant Golden Buddha on the river?

Lots of touristy things up there also with kids dressed up in native outfits hawking for pictures.

Aloha!

Interesting price for the cooking school at the Anantara. There is an option on their booking page at www.anantara.com for the cooking school for $67.00 per person. Wonder why you were charged so much more?

anantara has doubled their fee in 3 years for the cooking class....not surprised...

But the $67.00 price is for classes booked for tomorrow till next spring. If Gabi7 paid $100.00 per person, don't you think she was overcharged?

I think we paid around $70pp in December.

no matter what the price it is well worth it...!!

As I continue this post, I do want to mention that we had not originally planned to visit the north of Thailand but, having read and heard so much about it, are SO grateful for the experience. We really felt this was so much "the real Thailand" and would not have wanted to experience the country without seeing this region.
I mentioned earlier that driving in the regions we travelled was simple and, for the most part it was. On thing, however, we were grateful to the GM at the Anantara for was telling us about the spot where the road ran out!
It was during the drive from the Golden Triangle to Chiang Mai (the more adventurous country route)...We'd been driving along an excellent highway for miles, traversing incredible mountainous roads and visiting hillside tribal regions, when suddenly we were thrust from the highway onto a dirt road. Thanks to our GM advice, we didn't panic and think we'd gone the wrong way....We just kept going and after about a mile, it comes back again!

One other piece of advice I have for anyone doing this drive is to get a clear idea of how to find the airport! I was navigating on a somewhat obscure map and ended up getting us to the air force base instead of the airport! It was a little disconcerting as the officials would not let us through (we thought we were in the airport) and, once we realized our mistake, had no idea how to find the airport.
Luckily we came upon two girls on a motorbike who said "follow us" and proceeded to lead us through the streets of Chiang Mai to our destination or we'd still be driving around today:-)

Our flight from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son was a mere 25 minutes (on a prop plane -- which I'm not too crazy about) and we departed and landed on time in Mae Hong Son where we stayed at the Fern Resort.
I cannot say enough good things about this place as it is located on a rice paddy field and in a beatifully quiet and secluded spot (yet only 10 mins from town). It is an ecotourism resort which was built with funds from the government in order to preserve the area, and all the employees are from the surrounding villages. The cabins are spacious and comfortable (and very reasonably priced) and we loved getting up in the morning to the aroma of rice and the playful dogs rolling around at your feet in the open-air breakfast room.
It was during our days here that we spent a day elephant trekking and visiting the coffee and tea plantations which sit high on the mountains of the region. We sat and drank home-brewed coffee with the toothless Burmese owner of one of the plantations and drove to the top of the mountain to see the Queen's incredible gardens which were planted to replace the poppies that contributed to the opium trade in and around the country.
At night, the Fern provides transportation into town where there's a terrific little market around the lake as well as several funky little restaurants with great food and ridiculously low prices. We went to the LakeHouse Bar and had a very interesting dinner where you select your own food from a buffet table (many items which were unrecognizable to us) then cook them at your table over a steaming wok-type dish along with a variety of spicy sauces. Lots of fun and confusion.

On our second day, we rose very early and went into town where the monks come down to accept gifts of food from the townspeople (and visitors), then explored the colorful market which is filled with food, clothing, accessories, and many other temptations.

Back at the Fern, we decided to do the hike into the nearby Mae Surin National Park. Since our time was limited as we were departing later that day, we opted for the two hour hike and set off with our map and one of the dogs from the resort. This hike, we found, is not for the feeble as it winds up through very steep paths, across broad leafy rocks and bridges and down again into the valley.
After hiking for more than an hour and not being even halfway on our map, we started to get a little concerned (particularly since we had seen nobody else on the trail and I was a little disconcerted by the steep downgrade of the paths). Two and a half hours later we emerged -- hot and dirty and proud of our accomplishment. Our guide was patiently waiting for us at the hotel and we subsequently discovered that we had not taken the two hour hike at all...we had taken the four hour hike! So, I'd suggest making sure you're on the right route if you decide to do this hike -- it's very beautiful and worthwhile, but easy to take a wrong turning and get more than you bargained for!
Our time at Mae Hong Son coming to an end, we decided to stop in town for a foot massage on the way to the airport. This was our first taste of cheap and wonderful foot massages -- four dollars for a one hour foot massage. We were hooked!