Trip Report - First timers in Asia: Bangkok
May 4th, 2009, 08:44 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trip Report - First timers in Asia: Bangkok
First timers in Thailand: Bangkok
Our more seasoned Fodors Asia travelers may glean nothing from this trip report, but I hope it will be useful to those planning their first visit. Plenty of amateur booboos, awe of the ordinary, and missed opportunities enclosed. For the visually inclined, I have photos I am happy to link you to, should you request.
April 1: NW from Portland/Tokyo Narita/BKK, arriving @ 12:30am the 3rd (lost a day!). We stepped outside for a cigarette and after about 3 minutes, I realized I was about to pass out. The contrast in temperature was just too much for me.
Lesson #1 - The Heat: I knew it was hot in April. Read about it, understood it. We left 2 feet of snow to go to Thailand. The actuality of 38° and 1000% humidity was something else altogether. We drank tons of water, kept our electrolytes up, etc. After awhile I became acclimated, but my husband never did. The point of all this is that our activities were limited because of the heat. We just couldn’t do all the sightseeing we wanted to do. (Mango, my husband identifies with your night of horror and limitations of the heat).
We stayed at the Sheraton Royal Orchid (thank you, Kathie). It is a lovely hotel with a water shuttle to the skytrain. The next morning, we wandered the streets nearby, which fringe Chinatown. Mike (husband) had heard about an expat bar he wanted to visit, so we hopped a taxi and headed for Soi 20. The Ale House was a nice place to chat with expats, get our bearings, and escape the heat. One of the regulars walked us around the corner for our first $6 massage, then a motorbike taxi for a quick visit to the Nana district and another expat bar, Jools. We made it to 7pm before crashing.
Lesson #2 – the camera: I insisted in bringing my nice new digital SLR, imagining fabulous pictures of the temples. Unfortunately, every time we left the air conditioned room, it fogged up like crazy and took forever to clear! The small dig point & shoot did much better and was lighter, easier to carry, and delivered fantastic photos.
Day 2 in BKK: shopping at Central Chitlum, MBK for food. What a great place! It’s been described many times on these posts, so I won’t go into detail. That evening held another massage, a tour of Soi Cowboy by Ale House friends (nearly got hit by a ping pong – ewwww), and a visit from one of the elephants cruising the city. You pay a pittance to feed the elephant and get your picture taken with it.
Day 3: Chatuchak Market. Lots of fun at this ginourmous market. Could have spent all day, if we weren't at risk for heat stroke. Amazing food (sense a theme here?) - satay, papaya salad, Iced coffee (Thai Iced coffee, heh heh) in a bag. Hour - long foot massage. Who knew the foot extended up to the shoulder? Then an appointment for Clare at the tailor.
GOING TO A TAILOR IN BANGKOK: I am hard to fit, so I was really looking forward to getting some business clothing that fit. The tailor I selected was recommended by the concierge: Chinese Tailor. I have no idea how that ‘recommendation’ thing works, but I figured it was a place to start. The store picked me up at the hotel. I brought pictures of what I wanted. In addition, they had look books. I selected one style of everything I wanted: jacket, pants, skirt, dress. Then came the selection of fabrics. There was gentle yet persistent pressure to pick the more expensive fabrics, which was expected. The bargaining occurred when we got to the number of items I wanted. Because I wanted only 1 style of each, they dealt on the price based on having a single pattern, and making multiples off one pattern.
I ended up ordering a lot: 17 items total – 3 jacket, skirt, pant suits, 6 shirts, 2 dresses. The total came to US $1,985. Shipping to my home was $185. The day after my initial meeting, I was taken back for a fitting, then a second fitting the next day. Then came to my hotel two days later for a final fitting. Everything was beautiful and well-made. They shipped it DHL. I don’t know; maybe I paid more than I should. But I got exactly what I wanted, for less than it would cost in the US, and everything fits perfectly. I no longer have to worry about gaposis in a business meeting!
OK, Day 3 continued: On the recommendation of Indagare.com, we went to Supatra River House for dinner. We had a lovely boat ride to the restaurant, and a romantic table right on the river. Unfortunately, the meal was a disappointment. We had had better food at the Chatuchak Market! And super spendy to boot.
Day 4: Grand Palace, Wat Pho. We went on Rama VI day, so there were many worshipers on the site, all wearing white. Had a great lunch at the Siam Paragon food court.
Day 5: Woke up at 5 to go to the Floating Market. We arranged to have a young woman we had met guide us, with a driver that was endorsed by her. We “rented” her from a bar, then gave her some money as well. We paid an exorbitant amount for the boat ride – Mike, always nagging me to bargain, didn’t. Unfortunately, we were there too early. I got a bad taste in my mouth over the touristy, kitschy, Disneyland fakeness of it all. High points: eating fresh lychee & durian.
DUMBEST TOURIST MOVE (so far): Ratchaburi floating market (at least getting there too early) (tied with Supatra River House).
On the way home, they wanted to show us more things (we were done earlier than expected – go figure). I mentioned that I was interested in the amulets that most Thai wear. I know they sell them in an alley between the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, and that they are made by the Monks. Either we were unclear or we were intentionally misunderstood, but in either case, we ended up at the Gems Gallery. We’d been there already, having been brought there by another taxi driver (do they get a kickback even if you don’t buy anything?). I was actually glad of this, because I had wanted to get pearls.
GEMS MARKET: This is a large, elegant facility. The parking lot is filled with taxis and tour buses. Guides take you first through a room where people are working with stones and making jewelry, then a restaurant (really?) then into the showroom. This is a very big room, filled with finished products. It’s an interesting visit, if only to see how they try to accommodate the design tastes of people all over the world. Me, I wanted a strand of honkin’ freshwater pearls. You buy the strand, then they re-sting them and put on a clasp. You can pick your clasp and whether you want them knotted or not. My total cost for these beauties was $70US.
Time for some food. Sai took us to a seafood restaurant where we picked out our meal. I’m not kidding about this: for 4 people, we paid over $200. Fool me once, shame on you…we got pooched. The bad taste in my mouth just got worse. We had our driver just take us back to the hotel. No more! I don’t know which is worse – being taken for a ride, or feeling like an idiot because you allowed it. Too bad that was our last impression of Bangkok – we were off to Ko Samui the next day.
One final note: Mr. Boon, our driver the day before, picked us up to take us to the airport. Before we got in, Mike asked how much to take us there. He replied “you pay me what you want – you paid me plenty yesterday.” Slightly mollified, we went off for our next adventure.
Favorite things: Air conditioned taxis, friendly people, motorbike taxis, amazing food, spectacular temples and palaces. Cheap great massages, cold washcloths, more amazing food.
Our more seasoned Fodors Asia travelers may glean nothing from this trip report, but I hope it will be useful to those planning their first visit. Plenty of amateur booboos, awe of the ordinary, and missed opportunities enclosed. For the visually inclined, I have photos I am happy to link you to, should you request.
April 1: NW from Portland/Tokyo Narita/BKK, arriving @ 12:30am the 3rd (lost a day!). We stepped outside for a cigarette and after about 3 minutes, I realized I was about to pass out. The contrast in temperature was just too much for me.
Lesson #1 - The Heat: I knew it was hot in April. Read about it, understood it. We left 2 feet of snow to go to Thailand. The actuality of 38° and 1000% humidity was something else altogether. We drank tons of water, kept our electrolytes up, etc. After awhile I became acclimated, but my husband never did. The point of all this is that our activities were limited because of the heat. We just couldn’t do all the sightseeing we wanted to do. (Mango, my husband identifies with your night of horror and limitations of the heat).
We stayed at the Sheraton Royal Orchid (thank you, Kathie). It is a lovely hotel with a water shuttle to the skytrain. The next morning, we wandered the streets nearby, which fringe Chinatown. Mike (husband) had heard about an expat bar he wanted to visit, so we hopped a taxi and headed for Soi 20. The Ale House was a nice place to chat with expats, get our bearings, and escape the heat. One of the regulars walked us around the corner for our first $6 massage, then a motorbike taxi for a quick visit to the Nana district and another expat bar, Jools. We made it to 7pm before crashing.
Lesson #2 – the camera: I insisted in bringing my nice new digital SLR, imagining fabulous pictures of the temples. Unfortunately, every time we left the air conditioned room, it fogged up like crazy and took forever to clear! The small dig point & shoot did much better and was lighter, easier to carry, and delivered fantastic photos.
Day 2 in BKK: shopping at Central Chitlum, MBK for food. What a great place! It’s been described many times on these posts, so I won’t go into detail. That evening held another massage, a tour of Soi Cowboy by Ale House friends (nearly got hit by a ping pong – ewwww), and a visit from one of the elephants cruising the city. You pay a pittance to feed the elephant and get your picture taken with it.
Day 3: Chatuchak Market. Lots of fun at this ginourmous market. Could have spent all day, if we weren't at risk for heat stroke. Amazing food (sense a theme here?) - satay, papaya salad, Iced coffee (Thai Iced coffee, heh heh) in a bag. Hour - long foot massage. Who knew the foot extended up to the shoulder? Then an appointment for Clare at the tailor.
GOING TO A TAILOR IN BANGKOK: I am hard to fit, so I was really looking forward to getting some business clothing that fit. The tailor I selected was recommended by the concierge: Chinese Tailor. I have no idea how that ‘recommendation’ thing works, but I figured it was a place to start. The store picked me up at the hotel. I brought pictures of what I wanted. In addition, they had look books. I selected one style of everything I wanted: jacket, pants, skirt, dress. Then came the selection of fabrics. There was gentle yet persistent pressure to pick the more expensive fabrics, which was expected. The bargaining occurred when we got to the number of items I wanted. Because I wanted only 1 style of each, they dealt on the price based on having a single pattern, and making multiples off one pattern.
I ended up ordering a lot: 17 items total – 3 jacket, skirt, pant suits, 6 shirts, 2 dresses. The total came to US $1,985. Shipping to my home was $185. The day after my initial meeting, I was taken back for a fitting, then a second fitting the next day. Then came to my hotel two days later for a final fitting. Everything was beautiful and well-made. They shipped it DHL. I don’t know; maybe I paid more than I should. But I got exactly what I wanted, for less than it would cost in the US, and everything fits perfectly. I no longer have to worry about gaposis in a business meeting!
OK, Day 3 continued: On the recommendation of Indagare.com, we went to Supatra River House for dinner. We had a lovely boat ride to the restaurant, and a romantic table right on the river. Unfortunately, the meal was a disappointment. We had had better food at the Chatuchak Market! And super spendy to boot.
Day 4: Grand Palace, Wat Pho. We went on Rama VI day, so there were many worshipers on the site, all wearing white. Had a great lunch at the Siam Paragon food court.
Day 5: Woke up at 5 to go to the Floating Market. We arranged to have a young woman we had met guide us, with a driver that was endorsed by her. We “rented” her from a bar, then gave her some money as well. We paid an exorbitant amount for the boat ride – Mike, always nagging me to bargain, didn’t. Unfortunately, we were there too early. I got a bad taste in my mouth over the touristy, kitschy, Disneyland fakeness of it all. High points: eating fresh lychee & durian.
DUMBEST TOURIST MOVE (so far): Ratchaburi floating market (at least getting there too early) (tied with Supatra River House).
On the way home, they wanted to show us more things (we were done earlier than expected – go figure). I mentioned that I was interested in the amulets that most Thai wear. I know they sell them in an alley between the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, and that they are made by the Monks. Either we were unclear or we were intentionally misunderstood, but in either case, we ended up at the Gems Gallery. We’d been there already, having been brought there by another taxi driver (do they get a kickback even if you don’t buy anything?). I was actually glad of this, because I had wanted to get pearls.
GEMS MARKET: This is a large, elegant facility. The parking lot is filled with taxis and tour buses. Guides take you first through a room where people are working with stones and making jewelry, then a restaurant (really?) then into the showroom. This is a very big room, filled with finished products. It’s an interesting visit, if only to see how they try to accommodate the design tastes of people all over the world. Me, I wanted a strand of honkin’ freshwater pearls. You buy the strand, then they re-sting them and put on a clasp. You can pick your clasp and whether you want them knotted or not. My total cost for these beauties was $70US.
Time for some food. Sai took us to a seafood restaurant where we picked out our meal. I’m not kidding about this: for 4 people, we paid over $200. Fool me once, shame on you…we got pooched. The bad taste in my mouth just got worse. We had our driver just take us back to the hotel. No more! I don’t know which is worse – being taken for a ride, or feeling like an idiot because you allowed it. Too bad that was our last impression of Bangkok – we were off to Ko Samui the next day.
One final note: Mr. Boon, our driver the day before, picked us up to take us to the airport. Before we got in, Mike asked how much to take us there. He replied “you pay me what you want – you paid me plenty yesterday.” Slightly mollified, we went off for our next adventure.
Favorite things: Air conditioned taxis, friendly people, motorbike taxis, amazing food, spectacular temples and palaces. Cheap great massages, cold washcloths, more amazing food.
May 4th, 2009, 10:46 AM
#4
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You got a taste of Bangkok, sorry you managed to get "taken" several times.
My rule of thumb is never to take restaurant, jewelry store/tailor recs from taxis drivers or people you meet on the street.
The seafood restaurant you visited is renowned for high prices. No need to pay that much, you can get fabulous seafood elsewhere.
The floating market is, IMO, a total tourist trap. The only people I've ever heard to have a good thing to say about it are those who went with Tong. Your approach of renting a bar girl to guide you is certainly unusual... perhaps your experience can save others from making the same error.
As I'm sure you've figured out, the Gems Gallery is vastly overpriced. Whoever took you there did get a kickback, and the taxi driver who took you there got gas coupons even if you didn't buy.
The good news is that it sounds like you enjoyed yourselves in spite of all this. And think of all you learned that will keep you from making the same mistakes next trip. And good for you for just rolling with the punches and not letting little things ruin your good time.
My rule of thumb is never to take restaurant, jewelry store/tailor recs from taxis drivers or people you meet on the street.
The seafood restaurant you visited is renowned for high prices. No need to pay that much, you can get fabulous seafood elsewhere.
The floating market is, IMO, a total tourist trap. The only people I've ever heard to have a good thing to say about it are those who went with Tong. Your approach of renting a bar girl to guide you is certainly unusual... perhaps your experience can save others from making the same error.
As I'm sure you've figured out, the Gems Gallery is vastly overpriced. Whoever took you there did get a kickback, and the taxi driver who took you there got gas coupons even if you didn't buy.
The good news is that it sounds like you enjoyed yourselves in spite of all this. And think of all you learned that will keep you from making the same mistakes next trip. And good for you for just rolling with the punches and not letting little things ruin your good time.
May 4th, 2009, 11:31 AM
#5
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the report. It brings back many memories of our first trips, good and bad. The ROS is truly a gem. We got a recco from this forum before our first trip and stayed there everytime since. The idea of a bar girl as a guide is nearly unique. You're hereby praised for originality. Why not try something no one else has. Timely report, no penalty.
May 4th, 2009, 11:50 AM
#6
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's lots of fun to relive the first-time experiences. Nothing to be ashamed of -- as J.C. said, I came, I saw, I had a good time even if I got taken once or twice, and I'll be back.
The heat thing very definitely is an issue for some people, though, and I count myself among them. If I can't go to Bangkok in Dec/Jan, I just won't bother going.
The heat thing very definitely is an issue for some people, though, and I count myself among them. If I can't go to Bangkok in Dec/Jan, I just won't bother going.
May 4th, 2009, 12:31 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the comments. I'm glad we get points for originality, if not intelligence. BTW, we tried to get Tong, writing well over a month in advance. She said she was busy, but would have an associate get in touch with us. As has been noted in the forum, we had trouble getting a follow-up. So, what the heck - we gave the girl a day off her usual "duties."
As for where and what we ate at the ripoff restaurant: it was on the same street as the Gems Gallery, about 1/4 mile away. I had crab, Mike had a whole bass, Sai had clams, and Mr. Boon had the cheapest fish he could find.
As for where and what we ate at the ripoff restaurant: it was on the same street as the Gems Gallery, about 1/4 mile away. I had crab, Mike had a whole bass, Sai had clams, and Mr. Boon had the cheapest fish he could find.
May 4th, 2009, 12:37 PM
#8
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Thai tourist infrastructure has many layers. One is used to provide the best possible vacation. The "Trip of a Lifetime". Another very different layer separates unwary tourists from their money. I've had occassion to use both layers. Whenever I realize I spent way too much money, I just tell myself that it's still much cheaper than in Cambridge.
May 4th, 2009, 01:21 PM
#9
I will also give you points for an original method of finding tour guides and shopping recs. Who knew that ex-pat bars were a travel destination and tourist information center too!
At least you like the clothes and the pearls. It's a shame you weren't shopping for ping pong balls; I bet sai could have gotten great deals on those....
Oh well, good stories are some of the best souvenirs. Thanks for sharing yours, and I look forward to the next install
ment.
At least you like the clothes and the pearls. It's a shame you weren't shopping for ping pong balls; I bet sai could have gotten great deals on those....
Oh well, good stories are some of the best souvenirs. Thanks for sharing yours, and I look forward to the next install
ment.
May 4th, 2009, 02:18 PM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First timers report, Leg II: Ko Samui (3 nights), Krabi (4) Phuket (1)
Ko Samui
Got a cheap, pleasant flight from BKK to Ko Samui. The airport alone is worth the flight – what a beautiful place! Stayed at Le Paradis on Chaweng beach, found on Agoda.com. The hotel is nice, small, and quiet (especially compared to some others we found in our wandering down the beach). We had a nice Thai-style room, on stilts, overlooking the central koi pond.
I liked our location because we had both a quiet retreat and close access to the main drag with restaurants, bars, and massages. The infinity pool sits right above the beach, offering some beautiful vistas. The food and beverage situation isn’t the best, but the spa is superlative. I had an amazing treatment & massage there. The weather was crappy. The manager noted that they had never seen such wet, windy weather in early April. Yay us. One evening, to escape an unbelievable downpour, I ran in to the closest restaurant I could find – an Italian place called Baci. Normally, I would never, ever, think to eat Italian in any place but Italy – but circumstances were not normal. We had a truly delicious meal! We even went back the next day to try out their pizza.
We got off the beaten track, and found the kind of market where real people go: pig’s heads & offal lying out, fanned with plastic sacks to keep the flies off, etc.
Beach bar review of resorts on Chaweng:
Ark – casual, fun. Music & pool table kind of place. 20 to 30 year olds
Le Paradis – quiet
Poppies – nice, small bar with more formal dining.
Betelnut – elegant. Great food (Cali-Thai fusion) with a chef from San Francisco. Amazing pork belly.
Amateur mistake # too many to count: Make your exit plans early! I figured it was so easy getting a flight to Ko Samui, it would be no problem getting away. Wrong! So we did some quick research on taking a ferry/bus to Krabi. Prices quoted went from 8500TB (our hotel) down to 450TB (our laundry lady cum travel agent). We took the cheapest, and away we went! Van to pier. Bus to other pier. Ferry to Donsak. Bus to Suratthani. 1 hour wait. Different bus to Krabi. Finally, we arrive at a tiny way station outside Krabi city. How much for a taxi to the Sheraton? 800TB. We had paid only 900TB for two of to travel for 8 hours – a bargain! Whatever – it was all cheaper than in Cambridge, as they say.
Krabi
The Sheraton Krabi is big. Huge, in fact. (BTW, we are staying in Starwood hotels and using points as much as possible). Still, it remains intimate. We looked out over the mangroves and had a tiny view of the sea – but it was a short, secluded walk to reach it. The staff is very attentive. There are no touts on the beach. There are two pools, including a child-friendly space. They have an elephant on the property, which is great fun for the kids. The resort was full, as it was Songkran (and, incidentally, Easter). The resort offers a wide variety of excursions, including snorkeling and diving (which we did for the first time). For those of you with caffeine addictions like ours, the club rooms have espresso machines!
The down side of the resort is that there is little within walking distance. On the up side, there are regular shuttles to Krabi town and Ao Nang, as well as convenient transport elsewhere. One notable restaurant just across the street from the entrance is the Terrace. It has a huge menu (which usually scares me), and everything was delicious. The green curry and the wonton soup are outstanding. Within the resort, there are several restaurants and a hokey nightclub thing. It seems a good place for families and for simply hanging out. There are hundreds of birds, thousands of cicadas, all starting up on cue, frogs booming in the evening, big lizards and tiny crabs that left star shaped designs in the sand. Beautiful sunsets.
This is about the time that the Red Shirts broke into and disrupted the ASEAN conference and a state of emergency was declared in Bangkok. No sign of disturbance here!
Songkran: we took the shuttle in to Ao Nang. Kids and adults line the street with big smiles and buckets of water. We were soaked in minutes – it is the coolest we’ve been since we got to Thailand! We watched from a position of safety for a few hours, then wandered down a street filled with hooker bars. The music was unbelievable – pounding out from every open bar, girls dancing on the tables. It reminded me of Mardi Gras in New Orleans, plus water. Maybe not for everyone, but we had a gas.
As we had an early flight out of Phuket, we were driven up and spent one night at the Sheraton Laguna. Its beach is less enticing for swimming – the waves crash on the steep incline. There are nice pools, as well as the laguna. We spent the evening in Patong, watching the most spectacular sunset of the trip. Ate at P&P, down an alley food court off Bangla. Great food.
Next day – off to Singapore!
Ko Samui
Got a cheap, pleasant flight from BKK to Ko Samui. The airport alone is worth the flight – what a beautiful place! Stayed at Le Paradis on Chaweng beach, found on Agoda.com. The hotel is nice, small, and quiet (especially compared to some others we found in our wandering down the beach). We had a nice Thai-style room, on stilts, overlooking the central koi pond.
I liked our location because we had both a quiet retreat and close access to the main drag with restaurants, bars, and massages. The infinity pool sits right above the beach, offering some beautiful vistas. The food and beverage situation isn’t the best, but the spa is superlative. I had an amazing treatment & massage there. The weather was crappy. The manager noted that they had never seen such wet, windy weather in early April. Yay us. One evening, to escape an unbelievable downpour, I ran in to the closest restaurant I could find – an Italian place called Baci. Normally, I would never, ever, think to eat Italian in any place but Italy – but circumstances were not normal. We had a truly delicious meal! We even went back the next day to try out their pizza.
We got off the beaten track, and found the kind of market where real people go: pig’s heads & offal lying out, fanned with plastic sacks to keep the flies off, etc.
Beach bar review of resorts on Chaweng:
Ark – casual, fun. Music & pool table kind of place. 20 to 30 year olds
Le Paradis – quiet
Poppies – nice, small bar with more formal dining.
Betelnut – elegant. Great food (Cali-Thai fusion) with a chef from San Francisco. Amazing pork belly.
Amateur mistake # too many to count: Make your exit plans early! I figured it was so easy getting a flight to Ko Samui, it would be no problem getting away. Wrong! So we did some quick research on taking a ferry/bus to Krabi. Prices quoted went from 8500TB (our hotel) down to 450TB (our laundry lady cum travel agent). We took the cheapest, and away we went! Van to pier. Bus to other pier. Ferry to Donsak. Bus to Suratthani. 1 hour wait. Different bus to Krabi. Finally, we arrive at a tiny way station outside Krabi city. How much for a taxi to the Sheraton? 800TB. We had paid only 900TB for two of to travel for 8 hours – a bargain! Whatever – it was all cheaper than in Cambridge, as they say.
Krabi
The Sheraton Krabi is big. Huge, in fact. (BTW, we are staying in Starwood hotels and using points as much as possible). Still, it remains intimate. We looked out over the mangroves and had a tiny view of the sea – but it was a short, secluded walk to reach it. The staff is very attentive. There are no touts on the beach. There are two pools, including a child-friendly space. They have an elephant on the property, which is great fun for the kids. The resort was full, as it was Songkran (and, incidentally, Easter). The resort offers a wide variety of excursions, including snorkeling and diving (which we did for the first time). For those of you with caffeine addictions like ours, the club rooms have espresso machines!
The down side of the resort is that there is little within walking distance. On the up side, there are regular shuttles to Krabi town and Ao Nang, as well as convenient transport elsewhere. One notable restaurant just across the street from the entrance is the Terrace. It has a huge menu (which usually scares me), and everything was delicious. The green curry and the wonton soup are outstanding. Within the resort, there are several restaurants and a hokey nightclub thing. It seems a good place for families and for simply hanging out. There are hundreds of birds, thousands of cicadas, all starting up on cue, frogs booming in the evening, big lizards and tiny crabs that left star shaped designs in the sand. Beautiful sunsets.
This is about the time that the Red Shirts broke into and disrupted the ASEAN conference and a state of emergency was declared in Bangkok. No sign of disturbance here!
Songkran: we took the shuttle in to Ao Nang. Kids and adults line the street with big smiles and buckets of water. We were soaked in minutes – it is the coolest we’ve been since we got to Thailand! We watched from a position of safety for a few hours, then wandered down a street filled with hooker bars. The music was unbelievable – pounding out from every open bar, girls dancing on the tables. It reminded me of Mardi Gras in New Orleans, plus water. Maybe not for everyone, but we had a gas.
As we had an early flight out of Phuket, we were driven up and spent one night at the Sheraton Laguna. Its beach is less enticing for swimming – the waves crash on the steep incline. There are nice pools, as well as the laguna. We spent the evening in Patong, watching the most spectacular sunset of the trip. Ate at P&P, down an alley food court off Bangla. Great food.
Next day – off to Singapore!
May 4th, 2009, 02:44 PM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, I should change the title of this trip report. The rest of this is Singapore and Bali. Sorry for the confusion.
Singapore (3 nights)
Singapore for us was all about food (thank you, Anthony Bourdain). Our friends who had visited called it “Singabore.” Unless you are a shopaholic or a foodie, I can understand. Fortunately, we are the latter. We stayed at the St. Regis – perhaps the most luxurious hotel I have ever visited. I have no idea what to do with a butler, but we had one!
Since I am getting points for my information sources, I’ll tell you: I highly recommend asking the best-fed employee for restaurant recommendations: we were never steered wrong! Our agenda was hawker centres, and our first stop was the Newton Circle. I know this is the most recommended to tourists, but that did not make the chili crab any less divine!
We stopped for drinks at Boat Quay, and watched as hundreds of (non Singaporean) business people streamed out of the skyscrapers and came our way for happy hour. Dinner was at Lau Pa Sat HC, a white cast iron frilly structure enclosing a wide variety of eats.
The next day, we went to Chinatown. We stumbled in to a Buddhist Temple where a service was underway. The chanting is mesmerizing, the incense overwhelming. Lunch was Hainan Chicken Rice at the Maxwell HC. By then the heat was getting to us. I decided to go to Raffles to have an overpriced Singapore Sling, but when we got there we were prohibited from entry with a sign that said “residents only.” Instead, we found Coffee Connoisseur, a chain with A/C and wonderful coffee. That night we wandered Holland Village, ending up with some fabulous Japanese down a dead-end alley (sorry, forgot the name). Our last night, we went to Little India, and ate at Muthus Curry on Racecourse Road. It was wonderful!
Our next adventure: Bali!
Singapore (3 nights)
Singapore for us was all about food (thank you, Anthony Bourdain). Our friends who had visited called it “Singabore.” Unless you are a shopaholic or a foodie, I can understand. Fortunately, we are the latter. We stayed at the St. Regis – perhaps the most luxurious hotel I have ever visited. I have no idea what to do with a butler, but we had one!
Since I am getting points for my information sources, I’ll tell you: I highly recommend asking the best-fed employee for restaurant recommendations: we were never steered wrong! Our agenda was hawker centres, and our first stop was the Newton Circle. I know this is the most recommended to tourists, but that did not make the chili crab any less divine!
We stopped for drinks at Boat Quay, and watched as hundreds of (non Singaporean) business people streamed out of the skyscrapers and came our way for happy hour. Dinner was at Lau Pa Sat HC, a white cast iron frilly structure enclosing a wide variety of eats.
The next day, we went to Chinatown. We stumbled in to a Buddhist Temple where a service was underway. The chanting is mesmerizing, the incense overwhelming. Lunch was Hainan Chicken Rice at the Maxwell HC. By then the heat was getting to us. I decided to go to Raffles to have an overpriced Singapore Sling, but when we got there we were prohibited from entry with a sign that said “residents only.” Instead, we found Coffee Connoisseur, a chain with A/C and wonderful coffee. That night we wandered Holland Village, ending up with some fabulous Japanese down a dead-end alley (sorry, forgot the name). Our last night, we went to Little India, and ate at Muthus Curry on Racecourse Road. It was wonderful!
Our next adventure: Bali!
May 4th, 2009, 04:08 PM
#12
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow. Be more careful next time. What were you thinking when you hired a prostitute as a tour guide?? One thing's for sure- I'm sure you got screwed in one way or the other, lol.
The only time I felt overcharged was in Phuket at a main-drag seafood place which cost US$100 for the three of us. Only a few drinks too. Glad you had a great time, but be a little more prepared next visit!
The only time I felt overcharged was in Phuket at a main-drag seafood place which cost US$100 for the three of us. Only a few drinks too. Glad you had a great time, but be a little more prepared next visit!
May 4th, 2009, 04:13 PM
#13
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi again, CPS- Btw, what did your husband experience that was similar to mine? When I think back on it, it had soured my feelings about going back to Thailand, up to now. I'm starting to feel better and now miss Bangkok. Regards
mango
mango
May 4th, 2009, 04:45 PM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In your recent trip report, you talked about the terrible night you spent - weird dreams & disorientation. Sounds like some of Mike's discomfort, which I attributed to the heat. He was pouring sweat when we were outside, especially for three days. I was afraid he had malaria, actually.
One comment on getting screwed: at least most of the money went directly in the pockets of individuals. I feel better about that than about paying for expensive dinners in chain hotels!
One comment on getting screwed: at least most of the money went directly in the pockets of individuals. I feel better about that than about paying for expensive dinners in chain hotels!
May 4th, 2009, 05:14 PM
#16
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi cps
I'm just now getting home from my two-week trip to BKK. I flew home just today, and have been in my own house for about 1 1/2 hours and decided to check fodors.
Thanks for your trip report. I had to laugh when you talked about picking a girl from a bar to be your travel guide. DS and I took two girls to dinner at the top of Centara Grande this past Saturday night. It was a fun evening... and no, there was nothing kinky what so ever. The girls enjoyed the meal and conversation, and we enjoyed taking them to a place that the average Thai girl never sees. It's too expensive.
I ordered 5000 business cards for DH, paid 7500 baht for them. The bill to send them home (taking 4 weeks to get here) was 3900 baht. No, you did overpay for your shipping!! I'm wondering how long your stuff will take to get to you for that price. The business cards weighed 6kilos. Would have brought them home but suitcases were already waaaaay too overstuffed!!
Our favorite ex-pat bar is on Sukhumvit soi 11. It's called the Pickled Liver. It is owned by a British guy and managed by a Thai woman I've known for a number of years. There is always an interesting mix of people there. Some Thai, some UK, some Aussie, some French, American, you name it.
I laughed when you wrote about jumping on a motorcycle taxi. I'm in my 60s and for the first time in my life I rode on a motorcycle. I had quite a ride! I won't do it again though.
Carol
I'm just now getting home from my two-week trip to BKK. I flew home just today, and have been in my own house for about 1 1/2 hours and decided to check fodors.
Thanks for your trip report. I had to laugh when you talked about picking a girl from a bar to be your travel guide. DS and I took two girls to dinner at the top of Centara Grande this past Saturday night. It was a fun evening... and no, there was nothing kinky what so ever. The girls enjoyed the meal and conversation, and we enjoyed taking them to a place that the average Thai girl never sees. It's too expensive.
I ordered 5000 business cards for DH, paid 7500 baht for them. The bill to send them home (taking 4 weeks to get here) was 3900 baht. No, you did overpay for your shipping!! I'm wondering how long your stuff will take to get to you for that price. The business cards weighed 6kilos. Would have brought them home but suitcases were already waaaaay too overstuffed!!
Our favorite ex-pat bar is on Sukhumvit soi 11. It's called the Pickled Liver. It is owned by a British guy and managed by a Thai woman I've known for a number of years. There is always an interesting mix of people there. Some Thai, some UK, some Aussie, some French, American, you name it.
I laughed when you wrote about jumping on a motorcycle taxi. I'm in my 60s and for the first time in my life I rode on a motorcycle. I had quite a ride! I won't do it again though.
Carol
May 4th, 2009, 05:20 PM
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's the rest of my report (Bali), tagged under Indonesia:
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...i-354117-2.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...i-354117-2.cfm
May 4th, 2009, 05:24 PM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, Carol, I'm glad I'm not the only lady who found the bar girls entertaining and the expat bars fun.
I had the tailor wait until I returned to ship. The day I returned, I got an email from them with the DHL tracking number. Within 4 days, it has gone from BKK to Colorado, one state away!
I had the tailor wait until I returned to ship. The day I returned, I got an email from them with the DHL tracking number. Within 4 days, it has gone from BKK to Colorado, one state away!
May 4th, 2009, 06:06 PM
#19
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm surprised that you had to pay $200 for the meal you have described especially if you did not have any wine with it. Is this the place you had visited?: http://www.seafood.co.th/index.php
For a whole crab, sea bass, clams and the cheapest fish I would expect the meal to cost around 1,500 - 2,000 Baht with no wine even at the expensive Seafood Market and Restaurant. Perhaps your "guide" took you another place?
The best and, IMO, the most authentic floating market is Amphawa market. It sounds like you went to Damnoen Saduak market which is very touristy and kind of fake.
For a whole crab, sea bass, clams and the cheapest fish I would expect the meal to cost around 1,500 - 2,000 Baht with no wine even at the expensive Seafood Market and Restaurant. Perhaps your "guide" took you another place?
The best and, IMO, the most authentic floating market is Amphawa market. It sounds like you went to Damnoen Saduak market which is very touristy and kind of fake.
May 4th, 2009, 06:26 PM
#20
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nope, we went to a different restaurant. Could have been PhayaThai, for how bad the reviews are on trip advisor. And no booze. I'm having trouble wrapping my head around it, too. Unfortunately, I didn't see the bill myself. My husband paid it, then told me about it. I would have said something, for sure.
We did indeed go to Damnoen Saduak. Damn.
All this crap more than made up for by the majority of the trip!!!
We did indeed go to Damnoen Saduak. Damn.
All this crap more than made up for by the majority of the trip!!!
