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It was so nice to see you there! The first Fodorite I have met in person :)
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Takayama
It was a chilly morning with new snow on the mountain tops when we left Yarimikan and waited at stop H058 for the bus to Takayama. The driver this morning was a little grumpy when we were confused by his question of “cash?” but answered yes. He said “ticket” at which point we got a slip of paper from the machine with the number 3 on it. So the fare you pay is the amount shown on the screen at the front of the bus based on where you got on, number 3, and the amount showing at the number when you get off. Easy once you understand that and I paid him at the end in exact change when we arrived in Takayama. First stop was Tourist Information for a map. Our accommodation in Takayama was eph Boutique Hotel, close to the station. There are only 2 rooms per floor, washers/dryers available and very helpful front desk staff. A coffee bar/restaurant called Hids is on the ground floor and it serves a nice breakfast of coffee, panini, yogurt and smoothies, included in our nightly rate, which sets you up for the day. Takayama was busy so we were glad to have asked our hotel to make dinner reservations as we saw lots of people turned away at Yayoa, a traditional restaurant we went to on our first night and at Le Midi on our second. Le Midi was really good. The owner is an avid fisherman and has many trophies mounted on the wall, but what they specialize in is Hida beef. The meat is so tender no steak knives were needed. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7136355f3a.jpg Takayama corner https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a256de91.jpeg Looking down can reveal beautiful manhole covers, like this one in Takayama https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f05a8e6e43.jpg I saw many women riding bikes irregardless of their age https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a39283c470.jpg A quiet corner of Takayama where a husband and wife run a tea shop https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12211c5e0e.jpg Sweet Kokeshi Dolls. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1021c12984.jpg In "Old Town" Takayama lots of visitors enjoying themselves https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2147df954.jpeg The red apron on a fox statue at the Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine serves as protection from evil spirits One of the highlights of Takayama was the Higashima Walking Course with its many shrines and temples. It was great to be out walking on a perfect autumn day.https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7720cacb61.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...acac3b4900.jpg On the Higashiyama Walking Course On our last morning we took the short bus ride to Hida Folk Village to see the 30 traditional houses painstakingly moved and reconstructed into an open air museum. It was pretty with the mist rising. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...523c5346f.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c55a609e4.jpg Hida Folk Village https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13f6a3f8b3.jpg Persimmon decorates a bare tree in the Hida Folk Village, the orange fruit a beautiful contrast to the blue autumn sky. |
I am really enjoying this francebound, thank you for posting. I love all the details you are sharing about hotels and meals and your photos are great. I love reading around travel destinations before going (we hope to go next Autumn) so your book suggestions will definitely be followed up.
Looking forward to your next posts ! |
I am loving your report, and your photos are impressive. I'm surprised they let you take photos in the onsen. We haven't decided where our next trips will be, but a third trip to Japan is moving higher on the list. I'm looking forward to learning about the rest of your trip.
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Hi @PJTravels!
There was no one in either the change room or the outdoor onsen, otherwise I would not have taken a photo. You are right, it is not permitted. Thank you for your comments which encourage me to keep going with this very long report. |
Kyoto (part 1)
On the advice of mrwunrfl , I had reserved seats on the Hida #36 Takayama to Kyoto. This train did not require a transfer in Nagoya. At some point one section of the train continues direct to Kyoto and the other goes to Nagoya. It was a scenic journey, at least until it got dark, sunset being closer to 5pm in mid-November. On arrival Kyoto Station was swamped, but the arrows and lines on the floor direct you to the taxi area and once we figured that out we were fine. They even have a line for English speaking taxi drivers. We had a printout of directions to the Hotel Mume in (kanji and english) and when we were close our driver said, “It should be somewhere along here…” and after a moment I burst out with “There it is, the Red Door!” https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...883293fa0.jpeg We were met and welcomed like old friends and immediately felt glad we had reserved 5 nights in Hotel Mume, in fact just thinking about it now makes me feel emotional. Mume is a bijou hotel and really everything could not have been more perfect. Our first morning we were seated next to another couple who were leaving that day and who was it but a fellow fodorite magritten ! It was fun to meet and compare travel plans. I thought we’d probably benefit from a walking tour and so, after a delicious breakfast of fresh baked rolls, 3 types of jam, yogurt, a bowl of fresh fruit, soup, boiled egg and coffee or tea, we met up with a Kyoto Free Walking Tour. Our leader Jens was fun, knowledgeable and over 2 ˝ hours gave us a good orientation to the Gion area. We were so lucky with our weather, it was cool in the morning but sunny and warm in the afternoon. We liked to do our touring in the first part of the day then rested for a few hours in the afternoon. We then enjoyed happy hour in Mume before going out for dinner which was our evening’s entertainment. We did venture out one evening to the illumination at Kodai-ji Temple. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07d58362d.jpeg My strategy for avoiding what we expected would be overcrowded sites was put into play. We did not go to the Fushimi Inari Shrine, although if we were the types that could visit at night it might have been fine. Having enjoyed Matsumoto Castle we did not feel the need to go to Nijo Castle. We skipped through the Nishiki Market but early before it got busy. The irreplaceable Nana from Hotel Mume provided us with maps and train/subway routes every day. For Arashiyama she gave us advice that proved to be very helpful. After arriving at the less busy Arashiyama Station we took a taxi over the bridge and up to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji after which we walked down the hill to Gioji temple and its moss garden, Saga Torimoto Street and lovely Okochi Sanso Villa. (thank you to progol for this advice. A little further down we plunged into the noisy, chaotic human traffic jam that is the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest and down to the town before making our way back home. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5821404dd3.jpg Otagi Nenbutsu-ji https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38ba2cee95.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3501830dde.jpg Moss can be so beautiful https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8e3e5a60d6.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...86235a1fa1.jpg Saga Torimoto Street https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d78767bc.jpeg Okochi Sanso Villa. There is an entrance fee that keeps visitor traffic down. Beautiful Gardens https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b255d80569.jpg Okochi Sanso Villa. Another day we started out early with an 8:30am taxi to Enko-ji Temple, in its present location since 1667. Beyond the temple gate there is a zen garden and past the garden is the Jyugyu no Niwa, a garden with beautiful autumn colours and a lovely pond. I was very interested in the Suikinkutsu, a Japanese garden ornament that drips water through a hole in a buried jar creating musical notes you can listen to. It was a serene, beautiful temple and not too busy at all. We had booked a reservation for the visit. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81fa2ebb1.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9151291f0.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...831d280af.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e13b7282a.jpeg After our time in Enko-ji we walked downhill to the small railway station that would take us to Kibune to see the Kifune Shrine and walk from there to Kurama. We wanted to end in Kurama so as to go to the public onsen there. The first section was a steep climb to the summit then downhill from there. It was a nice cool day thankfully as we found it quite challenging unlike what you may read on Reddit (could be our age…) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fcc4f9c0d.jpeg Kifune Shrine https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01178a1fa.jpeg Kifune Shrine https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d93600e44.jpeg It's up up up from here Then down, down, down to here https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74ab3f523.jpeg Kurama-dera Temple https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ee9f06526.jpeg What not to do in the Kurama onsen https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37fb642cd.jpeg Kurama, train back to Kyoto |
Kyoto (part 2)
Another pleasant day was spent in Northern Higashiyama. We started out by taking a local bus to a stop near the Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion) and then walking down the Philosopher’s Path stopping in at a number of points of interest along the way. How beautiful it must be during sakura season! We eventually found ourselves at Nanzen-ji Temple. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7866cc690.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce4e8f66c.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c932a82a.jpeg Nanzen-ji Temple on a sunny Sunday afternoon Waking early does have its advantages, and in Japan I never was able to sleep past 5:30am. One morning at 5am I decided to get up and walk to the 6am opening at Kiyomizu-Dera temple. I felt perfectly safe walking on my own through the quiet streets. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d9cf2edb.jpeg Ninja alert, on my 5:30 am walk, enroute to Kiyomizu-Dera temple https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bcdea41f2.jpeg 6:30 am Kiyomizu-dera https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...027b3aa0e.jpeg I don't remember the colours being this vivid. View from the wooden stage of the main building https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62785d4a1.jpeg The 3 story pagoda dates from reconstruction in 1633 https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6125a8782.jpeg Pagoda Wandering home through the Higashiyama district that was so overcrowded during our walking tour a few days before was pleasant even though there were lots of social media influencers about even at 7am. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6835a9128.jpeg I did think this group of girls were very cute together Mume had given us ideas for dining in Kyoto and we took advantage of that, asking them to book reservations for Maruhiro, Uzuraya, Mannaka Tsururu and Shigurejaya Wabisuke. All good, all places we never would have known to go to. Our favourite was Shigurejaya Wabisuke. Our last happy hour at Hotel Mume featured more hospitality as guests were included in the birthday celebration for Nana. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a148760a6.jpg Our last morning in Kyoto before heading to Kyoto Station we took a walk near our hotel in an area popular for autumn photo shoots. We felt 5 nights in Kyoto was a good but I wouldn't want to have had any fewer. I'm glad for the advice to stay where we did. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...88173954c.jpeg |
it's deja vu all over again!
we were at Mume at the same time, apparently....though we missed Nana's birthday party because we had plans for Gion Corner and dinner. we were just arriving as you were leaving, I think. on our last morning, I got up early to do the Kiyomizudera walk and snapped a photo of the same ninja:). |
adlmllr That is fun that our paths crossed at Mume. Hope you enjoyed your Japan trip as much as we did. Happy travels!
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You are bringing back so many wonderful memories! When asked, I always tell people that Japan is only confusing until you do something the first time, just as you expressed, "...once we figured that out we were fine."
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We're so glad you enjoyed Mume and so nice that you were there for Nana's birthday. She is so incredibly helpful and just enhances your entire stay in Kyoto. (We were disappointed to learn that her equally helpful colleague Hikaru had just left Mume a few days before!) We had the other Wind room, so you must have been staying directly above us during our overlap day.
We also did a pre-breakfast walk to Kiyomizu-dera--we would have been there 4-5 days before you and there was more fall color in your pictures than when we were there--a few days seemed to make a difference. Most of our Kyoto fall color came from a drive up to Takao and the Jingoji Temple. |
Hiroshima
A hiccup arose with the use of our JR Kansai Hiroshima pass. We could not go directly by Shinkansen to Hiroshima from Kyoto, rather needing to transfer first at Shin-Osaka. Thank goodness for a helpful JR agent, a young woman at the Kyoto ticket office who helped me sort that out. We didn’t have far to go to check-in as the new Hiroshima Granvia South Gate Hotel (not to be confused with the older Hiroshima Granvia Hotel) is attached to the beautiful new station. Streetcars run from right outside the hotel door downtown, and we went for dinner to a restaurant for the city’s signature dish, okonomiyaki. In the morning we took the JR sightseeing bus (free with the pass) around town, getting off at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. The museum is very well laid out and there was no wait but it was very crowded in the exhibit rooms making it hard to view the displays. What was the most meaningful experience for us was the area where there are small cubicles where you can view video testimonies from A-bomb survivors. We listened to harrowing first hand stories from 3 different people. The final words of each survivor stressed their desire for peace and that nuclear weapons are so devastating they must never be used again. We also felt very moved upon exiting the dark rooms of the museum into the long corridor which overlooks the lawns and gardens of the park and is flooded in light from the outdoors. A symbol of a city reborn. Walking through the Peace Park we saw many groups of students taking part in field trips and gathered around the children’s monument that honours the thousands of child victims. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d8151a357.jpeg School groups at the Children's Monument https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...731ae76c7.jpeg The cenotaph monument is aligned to frame the Peace Flame and the A-Bomb Dome. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d86a2d39.jpeg Dove https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...283c6a63f.jpeg Tiny colourful cranes There is lots to see and enjoy in Hiroshima, like this Japanese garden, Shukkeien, a perfect little gem. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d00de8e15.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b64145d74.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...64a055a5d.jpeg |
Wonderful photos. Love the kimono. Good timing for fall colors. Noticed you stayed in the Momiji Room of your Miyajima lodging. Timing should have been about perfect for viewing the momiji (Ja[anese maple) turning color.
Great that you used the Hida 36 L'ex. I didn't know that it split into two, but that makes sense. I have to comment on this: We had allowed lots of time to do this and when we saw a train about to leave, my husband said, “Why don’t we go on that one?” “Because it’s reserved seating and we have a seat on the next train in an hour” I said. Lucky for my husband we are still married because I agreed to get on and the seats we happened to choose remained available the whole way, although we had to be ready at each stop to jump up and take the walk of shame to find somewhere else. I might have mentioned to you that reserved seats on the limited express trains on that line (Kaiji, Super Azusa) are not typically necessary. They have unreserved seating (like the great majority of trains) which should be available at Shinjuku and all the way to Matsumoto. I had a reserved seat on a train to Otsuki but I missed it. When the next train (Kaiji) arrived I looked for the car with unreserved seats but could not find one. A JR guy told me to get on and look at the lights above the seats. Unlighted meant the seat was unreserved. One color meant that the seat was reserved. Another color meant that the seat was unreserved at this station but reserved at some point down the line (so you could use it to the next station or until it changed to the other color). That was the first and only time I have seen those lights. Your story would be even more amusing if your train (prolly Super Azusa) had the lights, but it probably did not. |
Funny you should mention the lights mrwunrfl ! We did have the lights on our Asuza train, green and red. The seatback information told us that, contrary to what seems logical to us, the red light means the seat is unreserved so ok to sit in but the green light means the seat is reserved, at least for the portion of the trip from the last station.
The other time we ran into train trouble was at Hiroshima station when we were on our way to Okayama. We arrived early to make sure we knew exactly where to stand in order to board at the right spot, Car 6 or whatever it was. We had time so went down the escalator to use the WC but rushed up again right afterwards as my husband said, "They announced the arrival of our train!". We went and stood in the right spot but the number on the car when the train stopped did not match the gate number we were standing at, "Something is wrong" I said, but we got on. You guessed it, the wrong train, this one left about 10 minutes before ours. I could not believe I followed him again, I was speechless as the Shinkansen thundered away to I knew not where. And we were in the Green Car to boot. We did the walk of shame to the gangway connection where we stood in shock. To our great relief a conductor who spoke English when told we got on the wrong train said this one stops in Okayama. "See", said the husband, "We'll get there early". The moral of the story is always always double check the board to make sure you know you're getting on the right train. Another thing to remember is that when the music sounds to let you know you will soon be arriving at your stop to get yourself up and ready to go. Don't wait until the train stops because when they say there will be a brief stop they really mean it, brief. You have got to love the trains in Japan. |
I'm curious what you thought about the Hiroshima Granvia South Gate hotel. We stayed there for a night and while there was nothing specifically bad about it, it was our least favorite hotel of our trip. I thought the process to check in via the kiosk was rather impersonal. but also unnecessary given that there were lots of employees milling about anyway. (This probably also speaks to the fact that we're rather "old school.")
We also got zero help from anyone when we had what we felt was a pretty simple question: is there a pharmacy in the train station? (There is, but we found it on our own.) We thought to ourselves, "we're not at Mume anymore..." |
We thought the Granvia South-Gare pajamas were the most comfortable we had in Japan, that was good. Breakfast was very expensive so we did not indulge. It was no Mume, that's for sure, but it suited us location-wise.
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Miyajima
Since our JR pass was good for the the train and ferry option to Miyajima we went that route. We were too early to check in at Auberge Watanabe but they kindly met us at the pier and collected our bags. They were waiting in our room when we checked in at 3pm. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a3d60e41.jpeg Stand on the right side deck of the ferry to get a great view coming to Miyajima https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c64ed6e87.jpeg No sooner had I unfolded this map before this deer snuck up and took a bite right out of it! Knowing Miyajima is a popular day trip for visitors, we were prepared for crowds but it was very very busy when we walked through the shopping streets leading to the Great Torii. Instead we wandered the trails and enjoyed the red maple leafed trees as we made our way eventually to the extraordinary Daishoin Temple and Auberge Watanabe. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c2a32658.jpeg Our room. Sitting in these low chairs was not the only option as there was a little deck looking out to the creek and lovely view. While we ate dinner, the table and chairs were moved and futons and cozy quilts were laid on the tatami mat. After checking in and before dinner we each enjoyed a bath in the cypress tub in the separate bath room. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b240882e5.jpeg Right across the road from Auberge Watanabe is the Daisho-In Temple. We walked through it in the afternoon and again for the evening illumination. If you go to Miyajima do not miss this splendid temple. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c327d9cad.jpeg Small jizo statues are spread out all over the temple grounds. Hats are given as a way to shelter jizo from the elements and to show honour for their protection of children https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ad632b90.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e7718b5b.jpeg Buddha footprint https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b22de1a1b.jpeg Tengu Statue https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7dbbe80c3.jpeg Evening illumination https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40cbbf219.jpeg Evening Illumination After a delicious kaiseki dinner we walked back down to the waterfront and remarked how different everything was from when we arrived. So quiet and few people. I would recommend staying overnight if possible in Miyajima. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1080561df.jpeg Great Torii https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b6919215e.jpeg Itsukushima Shrine In the morning at opening time we took the ropeway up Mt Misen and followed the trail to the summit. We visited "Reikado" Hall of the Ever-Burning Fire, the flame of which has been burning for around 1,200 years. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c03e5802.jpeg Summit of Mt Misen with beautiful views of the Seto Inland Sea Thinking it would be faster to do so we hiked down the hundreds of stone steps back to the Daishoin Temple and the auberge. Our host kindly drove us back down to the pier and we made our way back by ferry and train to Hiroshima. |
I imagine there is a story behind the 'Cyrano' statue with the long nose....
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Wonderful Hotel Mume! There are lots of things I'd still like to see in Kyoto, but if (when) I do return, the primary reason will be to stay at Mume! I was always out and about all day, so I never got to participate in a happy hour, but I did enjoy the offer of tea in my room when I returned each night. I'm curious as to whether they have many Japanese guests or if they've cultivated a mostly international clientele. I don't recall there being Japanese guests while I was there, but I could very well have missed them.
How was the Kurama onsen? I had originally planned the route you took, but the onsen was still closed while I was there, so I did it the other way, hoping to see the walkway to the Kifune Shrine lit up at night. |
We took the Ropeway up around 10 am, which was a bit later than we had planned. There were about 20 people in line ahead of us. When we came down the Ropeway in the afternoon (we didn't hike down), there must have been 400-500 people in line. For all I know, those people are still waiting in line to head up.
Watanabe sounds nice! We tried to book it, but they said they were closed. (I wonder if that was a mis-communication of saying they were full.) We ended up at Kinsuikan, which we did like a lot. We had a nice view of the torii from our room and a terrific sunset one night, but didn't sound as personal as Watanabe. (No one took us to and from the ferry!) |
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