Trip report
 

I want to thank all of you Fodorites for helping us in the planning of our first Asian adventure which turned out to be a blast. The travelers are me, Peter and my wife, Linda. I am doing this in Microsoft Office and transferring, hope it works. Sorry for all typos in advance, hope I don�t bore you all. Here is our trip report.

<b>Day 1</b>
We arrived on time at 11:40 pm Bangkok time and cleared customs rather quickly following a long flight from Honolulu via Tokyo on UA upgraded to business class. HNL to NRT flight took 8 hrs 47 min as we experienced 179mph headwinds which slowed our speed down at times to 395 mph. Landed at Narita and went straight to first class lounge. UA�s lounge in Narita is about the biggest UA lounge that I�ve seen. Free showers and lockers. Full comp bar with small snacks (fruit, cheese, crackers, cookies, etc.). Waited our four hours of layover and boarded our 6.5 hr flight to BKK in which I mostly slept. After clearing customs we were met by our driver set up for us by UA. They took us via Mercedes limo to our hotel the Shangri La. Got a nice river view room in the main tower. Golden Circle member (thanks Bob). We were in the room by 1:10am. Showered and passed out at around 1:40 or so.
Day 2
We woke up late for us, 8:00 am. We got breakfast at the Coffee Shop which has an awesome new breakfast buffet display every morning. The usual cereal and bread spread but also all kinds of fruit, yogurts, Thai noodles, dim sum, meats, all kinds of eggs, salad bar, dessert bar, chocolate fountain, etc. Needless to say you could have anything you wanted except corned beef hash, lol. I had read somewhere on this board that before we left that the Golden Circle members only get 50% off their breakfast because of a rule change but during our stay in Bangkok 2/24-2/28 they did not charge us for breakfast. Needless to say we ate here every morning while we were at the Shangri La (4 nights). We then decided to walk off our breakfast and left our hotel for a �short walk�. Well we ended up at the other end of Silom Rd. next to the park after about 2 � hrs of walking ,gawking and dodging people (tuk tuk 20 baht :)) and at all the new and interesting sights and smells of downtown Bangkok. Welcome to Southeast Asia, wow!

We then decided we should head back to the hotel as we had booked our spa sessions at the new Chi spa in our hotel at 3:00 and we wanted to grab a bite of lunch before we did. Walked back to the hotel a little faster than we walked down as it only took us about an hour to get back. Freshened up in our room and headed downstairs for lunch at the Italian Restaurant in our hotel Angelini�s. Good food as I had the Veal Scaloppini special which was wonderful. Linda had the seafood soup which in San Francisco they would call Ciopino(sp). She could not believe all of the seafood in the soup clams, fish, scallops, crab, shrimp, mussels, calamari and the saffron broth was excellent. Having lunch there instead of dinner really cuts down on the bill. Great food and atmosphere, would heartily recommend.

We then walked around our hotel for a couple of hours until our appointments at the spa. We shopped the shops on the street between the S La and the Oriental. A lot of shops with fake name brand shirts and copied general clothing mdse. I wasn�t too interested in buying but was just fascinated by their street life style and just nosing around. Ohhhh the spa!!. What a beautiful place. All of the treatment rooms have everything in them so you never have to change rooms if you are getting different treatments. Linda and I both had the �Enchanted Journey� treatment which consists of a Himalayan Bath Therapy, Mountain Tampa Salt Scrub and an hour long signature massage.

After the intro and filling out of brief health questions they whisk you away to your private treatment suite. There they wash your feet in flowered scented water while serving you an herbal tea of your choice. Its then off to your private steam room for a few minutes, then off into the Himalayan bath which is already drawn for you. You then have your MT Salt scrub which makes your skin feel so oiled, fresh and renewed. After a quick shower to wash off all the salt they finish with a 1 hour massage that just melted all my soreness and jetlag away.

I was now ready for Bangkok. So where was Linda? She�s was still getting the rest of her treatments (nails, toe�s you know lady things) that us men don�t do:). So I piddled around the hotel for a bit (what an interesting neighborhood) until she was finished. I managed to find a pretty good tailor right outside the S La. The name is Stylist Tailors. I had brought a style of Aloha shirt that I wanted to have made with Thai silk. We can pay up to $185.00 per shirt here in Honolulu. I got 5 different ones made up at 1700 baht each. They finished them in 2 days. The contacts name was Miew, and she was very helpful and spoke excellent English. I was happy.

We then went out to our dinner at Sala Thip(sp) Thai Restaurant in our hotel. The food was fantastic along with the live entertainment that was shown throughout the evening. Ethnic Siamese dancing and local music was the entertainment for the evening and it did not disappoint. Early to bed after a great dinner as we were to meet our driver, Ratt, at 8:00 in the morning.

<b>Day 3</b>
Up early, 5:15 am (I always get up early) and watched the river come to life from our hotel window. Woke Linda a little later and went downstairs for an early breakfast 6:30am. Then back to the room to freshen up before our meeting our driver.
8:00 am we step into the lobby as Ratt is walking into the hotel lobby doors. Perfect timing! We are off to the Grand Palace in her nicely air conditioned Toyota green and yellow taxi. On the way to the GP she passes a Wat with the Golden Buddha inside and asks if we want to stop as we have time. I say ok, so while she is parking the car Linda and I notice that 2 Buddhist monks are being initiated that day at the temple with all the ceremony and family that goes with it. At this time Ratt pops up from I don�t know where and starts explaining the Buddhist ceremony that is taking place right in front of us. She would end up always doing this it seemed on our 2 days with her which was part of her �genuine� personality that we loved.

Then off to visit the golden Buddha, a few pictures and off to the GP. Traffic was getting bad around the Palace so Ratt dropped us of right in front with instructions on how and what kind of tickets to purchase. She also gave us a cell phone to contact her if anything went wrong. She went off to find parking. We pushed our way through the touts and went inside to buy our tickets. Once inside we got one of the audio tours and proceeded to do the tour. After about 20 minutes or so I noticed that Linda was off with the audio over my back shoulder as I was trying to figure out what gate lay in front of me. That�s the East Gate said a familiar voice. It was Ratt who was now holding an umbrella over me to shade me and had given one to Linda for herself. She also had a small lightweight cooler over her shoulder with ice cold drinks and towels for us. She had a fan in the other hand which she was using to fan herself and me. WOW!

Our tour through the Grand Palace now became a treat as we walked through with (which was quickly becoming our friend) our driver. Our conversations were as in depth or as simple as we wanted on a subject. As we all know Ratt is a licensed driver and not a licensed guide so she cannot give tours. But she is a great companion and driver. After the last rooms (which were air conditioned) we proceeded to the car for the drive to Wat Po. A quick tour through this one as I was getting tired of talking on/off my shoes it was starting to get hot 96 F. We skipped the Wat Po massage as when we went it was very hot and noticed no seat covers on their work chairs. Everyone was sweating profusely and it did not look like a clean environment for a massage. Sorry. Ratt also recommended not to get a massage here as she just kept mumbling �unhealthy�. So off we went to Jim Thompson�s House.

Drove through China town and passed the Giant Swing(took pictures). Took the 35 minute interesting tour of the house. Had a very good Thai food lunch at the JT Restaurant. We had Chicken Satay, Shrimp w/noodles, spring rolls, 2 glasses of white wine and carrot cake and ice cream for dessert for 1100 bht. Good meal! Great price. Wine was 180 baht a glass. Then off to Hard Rock Caf&eacute; for some souvenirs(We�ve been doing this for years everywhere we go that has one. I have more HR Polo shirts than anyone I know, lol). Then off the JT Hose outlet that Ratt says is right outside Bangkok towards new airport. Prices there are better than the JT House Ratt tells us but selection is limited. Shopped for a while and bought a lot of junk. Back to hotel as it is now nearing 5:00. Ratt drops us off reminding me that she will be by at 7:00 the next day for our tour outside of Bangkok. Had dinner Angelini�s as we were too tired to go anywhere else than in our hotel. The dinner prices are more than lunch. Food is the same, very good but the restaurant does get noisy and crowded as the bar seemed very noisy that evening. I loved it the food though. Had 1 bottle of wine that doubled the bill. Early to bed as needed to get up early for next day. More to follow when I can get more time. Sorry for the length.

<b>Day 4</b>
Ratt is two minutes late 7:02, she apologizes profusely as we enter her car. Off to Damnoen Saduak Floating Market which is in the Ratchaburi Province about 80km SW of Bangkok. We take about 90 minutes to get there passing salt farms and people constantly jaywalking across the highways along the way. As we enter the market Ratt parks and arranges a boat for us at 500 baht. Maybe could have gotten a better deal but not quibbling at this point. Ratt joins us as she is eating her breakfast she just bought from a stall at the beginning of the market. Some soup with vegetables and peppers. Smells interestingly good. She later buys us some fried bananas from a marketer on the river which was heavenly. Ratt advises us not to but anything unless we just have to because you can get everything they have here in the JJ market that we would be going to tomorrow. So we buy a few things anyway just because its infectious.

Take a lot of pictures and leave about 90 minutes later headed towards the Royal Thai-Handicraft Center. What a fascinating place. Made a major purchase here of a coffee table that was just so beautiful. Should be at home in 8 weeks (I hope). After about 90 minutes its off to the Elephant show. Drive northwest to the Elephant grounds. It�s a zoo and show park where they have crocodile and elephant shows daily. The restaurant is the first place we head to as Ratt says they have a beautiful lunch place with cheap prices. The park restaurant is very clean with a lunch buffet which was very fresh with Thai and International Food both hot and cold dishes. I don�t like buffets but this one seems very fresh and pretty busy. So I dig in to the Thai food and have seconds. Some Ice tea and dessert bar and the bill is 220 baht per person. Ratt eats with us and explains that she gets the drivers rate (40 baht). I offer to pay for her but she refuses profusely.

I pay the bill and we enter the park to ride the elephants. 400 baht per hour is what we are charged. They take you around a nice enclosed area complete with waterfalls and forest area. The ride was a kick and another guide follows you around and pops up at certain sights to take pictures of you with your camera. After our ride Ratt escorts us to the elephant and magic show which is just starting. I am a little tired but ok. This takes about 1 hour and by that time I�m ready to go back to BKK. It�s about 3:30 and I wanted to be back by 5:30 because we have reservations at Harmonique at 7:30. As we are leaving Ratt says we still have time for the Rose Garden but I say no and we head back to BKK. Get back to our hotel right at 5:30 after stopping by to check out the Marriot Riverside Resort. Looked at some river and garden view rooms. Not bad, would definitely consider staying here on a next visit.

Crossed bridge to New Road where we pass by where Ratt lives and has also purchased a property she will be renting out as a B&amp;B. She is having problems with her architect but talked to one that she new that we saw at the floating market in the morning and hopes to get it done by June or July. She will post info on her website that her daughter is doing for her, Web address is www.ratservice.com . when it is ready to rent. Ratt dropped us off after a long goodbye with hugs and kisses and pictures. She had become our friend in 2 days and like many of you know she just grows on you. I would wholeheartedly recommend her as a driver in a heartbeat.

After getting ready we catch a cab to Harmonique. Food was ok but sorry for disagreeing with all of you but the service was a little more than terrible, it was non-existent. It was a real busy night , I guess because of all of your compliments the place but really, it was kind of ridiculous. Also we noted that a horrible smell kept emitting from the inner room every so often. When at the end of our meal I went to the restroom I realized what the odor was. They have got to have one of the grossest restrooms for a popular place that I have ever seen. Linda could not stand the fact that when the women would go they would have their faces the men�s urinal. I used to work in a restaurant and I know that we were taught that if you can�t keep a bathroom clean where everyone goes, imagine what the kitchen and other rooms look like that no one but employees go into.

They just got so busy that it took nearly 55 minutes for us to get our order after we ordered. People in the restaurant were freaking out. Don�t know if they�ll be as popular if they have many nights like this. And CLEAN THOSE BATHROOMS! Enough said, rant and rave over Sorry! Bed by 11:30. Next day transfer to Peninsula Hotel.

Great, keep it coming.....

pete; great report. the heck with the corn beef hash, wheres the portuguese sausage, spam, and natto? :-).

will be there next month, so am taking notes.

Great report!

Sorry you didn't like Harmonique. I've only eaten there at lunch time several times, and the &quot;service&quot; indoors is almost non-existant, but outdoors was ok. At dinner, it sounds like it's MUCH worse. I've never visited their restrooms, now I never will....

sounds like the trip is going fantastically...sorry about harmonique...i always try to warn people about the service.. i have been known to get up and ask for one thing or another, especially the bill...

the bathrooms are news to us as we have never had to use them thank god...

don't you just love ratt....you could not ask for any more info than she gives you, unless you are an academic and need every tid bit...

back to harmonique...i have it on my eating schedule for 2 or 3 dinners in may/june...maybe i will no longer like it??? we find the food delicious and the price very enticing....we consider it our bargain dinners...
i always sit in one of the a/c rooms and not many people do so that is why i think we get forgotten....they never have enough help...the old people who run it are still in the 1950's, which i find part of its charm...

anxious to hear how you like the penn...the marriott is not the hotel the sh-la or penn are but we love the relaxed atmosphere and the pool area...we do not do spa so are totally unfamiliar with this aspect of hotels...

GOOD THING YOU STUCK TO YOUR GUNS ABOUT ROSE GARDEN.... complete waste of time imo

Day 5

We were going to transfer to the Peninsula today so we could get up late. Yeah right. I get up early as usual and watch the river come to life. I watched for an hour as one small tug pulling two long Pepsi barges pushed them into 1 stall along the river while turning them around into the opposite direction at the same time, fascinating. I enjoyed doing this every morning while in Bangkok and later in Hong Kong. Anyway, we had our last breakfast at the S La. We absolutely stuffed ourselves. That’s why I hate buffets; it turns normal people into absolute gluttons. Well most of us anyway. We walked around the neighborhood again to walk it off. This time we visited stores and bought some silver jewlery stuff along the New Road next to Silom. Went back to check out and was picked up by our driver who transferred us across the river to the Peninsula. WOW. OK, a definite step up from the Shangri La. For 1 thing you step into the techno 22nd century. All of you who have been there know what I mean. Tried to get into a higher room at check in but am told that they are full (right). Had a quick sandwich lunch in the lobby bar/restaurant and took a cab to Chatuchak Market as it was the weekend, Sunday I think? We shop around in the hottest place on earth at the hottest time of the day 1:00 to 4:00 pm. I had to be nuts but Linda really enjoyed it. After a while it was does this look good? My answer, yeah buy it(in my head I’m just thinking get me out of hear NOW). So needless to say we had a bunch of bags with us when we left. Should’ve got the Skytrain back but figured I’d try a cab since we had not taken the train yet and I was no mood to concentrate. It took 5 cabs before we could get one that used a meter. Got back to the hotel, gave the cab triple the meter which was what all the other taxi drivers were quoting me. I told him that’s for being honest. He gave me his card and thanked me profusely as we walked away with the bellboys handling our bags of stuff. Went down for a dip in the pool then got ready to eat out at Jester’s the restaurant in the 1st floor of the hotel. I ordered the lamb chops and Linda ordered the Fish special with the soft shelled crab as an appetizer. Our most expensive dinner yet as we have 2 bottles of the Chile Peninsula Special Wine at 2500 baht per bottle(it was a long hot day) and are in bed by 10:00.

Day 6
Breakfast downstairs at the Peninsula. Great buffet again with everything the S La has but just looks more formal here at this hotel. Breakfast is included in our room price so we eat here all of our three days here. Walk around out in the neighborhood to walk off our meal then back to the room to call SJ International to pick us up so we can spend more money. Actually Linda already tells me you got that table so …as she smiles and walks away. I’m in trouble.
The driver is there in 26 minutes, wow. Actually it’s two people a driver and his assistant. They take us to the store and we meet 3 different people trying to sell us anything. I mention Kathie from Seattle and the Red Sea parted. Everyone walked away and Bee came up to help us with an assistant. She explains that we will get the absolute best price because of our “special friend”, alright, thanks Kathie! You are somebody! Well needless to say 1 ½ hrs later and 7 rings, two pendants and a necklace I had wished I had never seen that table. All kidding aside thanks again Kathie, your name saved us a bundle. Actually the owner’s daughter came out and introduced herself to us and thanked us for coming in. She really knows her jewelry and actually picked out the sapphire necklace for Linda that we ended up buying. She spent about half an hour with us until someone from the back had to have her to make a decision. I forgot her name, sorry but I was too busy adding and subtracting in my head as Linda had that fevered look in her eyes but we finally left with the rings being sized and to be delivered to us at 6:00 pm tomorrow. S J International is a very professional and huge place. They have a lot of inventory in the back (believe me we saw a lot of it) and can make anything you want to order. We even got the private tour of their factory in front. Highly recommended we were very pleased(at least Linda was).OK, back to the hotel where Linda buys me lunch. I then go across the river to pick up my shirts at Stylist. Everything is perfect. Back to the hotel to the pool to relax. Dinner at The Bed Supper Club that night. We took a cab from The Peninsula and arrived a little early for our reservation so we walk around the neighborhood. It is actually cooler this evening as the weather had taken a cooler turn (84F days and 71F at night) the past couple of days which was real nice. Wow what a neighborhood. Made a mental note to come back here to shop around. Most of you have eaten at The Bed; all I can say is its very interesting. We really enjoyed ourselves. I didn’t think we would. The food was first rate(if not the best we had in Bangkok). The atmosphere was electric. I got so comfortable in the bed that I thought I would hate sitting in that we stayed longer and drank more than we should have. Left about 11:00 to catch the Skytrain back to the hotel. Seemed like a dream as we walked up to the train platform and there was the train, we transfer and there was the other train, we get off and there is the shuttle boat and the hotel. Sleep by 12:30 or so, I think. Sorry so detailed. Tomorrow Kong tour and dinner at Biscotti

still sounding great...will be anxious to hear how you like biscotti....\

how comfortable was it at bed...that is what is keeping me away...you think the food was better than jesters (which you did not say much about????) and angelini????

bob

karen asks is there any alternative to sitting on the bed??? we are old and some of us too large for eating in bed...enough said

I am loving this trip report and getting even more excited about our next trip to Bangkok in Feb 2006. Keep it coming.

Really enjoying your trip report! Is the food at Bed Thai?

Great report! Glad you liked Ratt as much as so many of us do.

Re: Bed Supper Club. Being a big man won't be a problem at all. There is plently of space. It's actually one long continuous bed. Very, very comfortable for all people I would think. There is one small table on the main floor and I think a couple of others upstairs but being on the bed and getting to know your neighbors is half the fun.

The food is probably best described as fusion.

kuranosuke:
missed the portugese sausage but the natto comes in later in the report from Tokyo!

rhkkmk:

the beds on the first floor are about 8' wide and as long as the restaurant (80-90')with seperate plastic tables and pillows for each &quot;seperate&quot; table. You have about the equivelant of a King size bed for yourself and your spouse so there is a lot of room. Two &quot;tables&quot; down from us was a party of 8 which looked pretty crowded but everyone fit so there is a lot of space. They also have these large beachball pillows in between the &quot;tables&quot; so is there is seperation if you want it. Imagine being in a large bed with people serving you as you watch a technodisco/restaurant in action. Add to that the great food. As you know they have a choice of 3 or 4 pri fix meals per night except on Sun/Mon I think. When they take you to your table you just slip off your shoes and climb on. Karen should probably wear slacks that evening to be more comfortable. Don't forget to take your camera as the live menu's are something else. As I said I was very skepttical about this place but we had a blast.
My restaurant rating in Bangkok IMHO(1st timer 1 visit only)
1. Biscotti/Bed Supper Club
2. Angelini/Italian restaurant for which I have notes at home.
3. Sala Thip/Jesters
4. Harmonique
all but Harmonique I would highly recommend.

CFW:
They had Thai selection the night we were there but don't know if they always do. glorialf best describes their food as fusion.

Day 7

Last full day in Bangkok. Breakfast as usual, stuff ourselves and hope it lasts past lunch, lol. We go out to the dock to see about a khlong tour. The bellman at the dock says all these guys (about 5 of them) in front of the hotel are for the reservations. Do you have reservations? I say no. He says I have the perfect man for you across on the other side, he is a real gentle person, for 500 baht an hour. They took us across to the Peninsula dock near the S La and we got on the long tail boat. He took us up Past the Grand Palace, Wat Po area and finally went into one of the Klongs. A two hour tour with a stop at his friends orchid garden and bar in the middle of nowhere was a memory we’ll never forget. We took a ton of pictures which I will post on a sight if I ever figure out how to do it (any help appreciated). We came back and took the Sky train over to the Bed Supper club area to do some shopping and sightseeing. We ended up walking down and visiting the Emporium Mall which was very upscale and air conditioned. Linda managed to get two bags full from there. Then while walking down the street we stumbled across a real nice Italian Restaurante da Lalo Italiano in the Jasmine City Building 2, Sukhumvit Soi 23 for a late lunch and gelato. I had the Osso Bucco with saffron rice while Linda had the artichoke with shrimp pasta special which was divine. The manager is Italian and the food is authentic. I liked it better than Angelini’s. It was that good IMO. Price was really reasonable and the portions were more than adequate. Worth a try if you are in the area. They are open from 10:30 thru 11:00 and have a pretty large menu. After lunch we caught the sky train to MBK. Wow, not enough time left in this day or the next to go through this place. We spend the next couple of hours shopping and catch the Sky train back to Taskim and boat back to the Pen. Cool off in the pool before getting ready for dinner at Biscotti. Take the taxi from the Pen 45 minutes before our reservation but arrive ½ hour late as traffic in Bangkok really sucks. Finally get to the restaurant and are whisked away to our table for one of the most enjoyable meals we have had in Bangkok. Biscotti’s is not an overly stuffy place so at once we felt at ease yet there is an elegance about it (maybe being in the Four Season’s ) that you know your not at a TGI Fridays. I compare their food quality to that of The Bed Supper club. Simply, yet tastefully prepared with marvelous service. I had the Stuffed Veal chop special while Linda had an unreal Shrimp Scampi with linguine. We also ended up ordering a bottle of wine to celebrate our last night in BKK so it wasn’t the cheapest meal we had but for atmosphere and price I probably liked Biscotti the best of the restaurants that we went to on this trip to Bangkok. The Bed comes in a real close 2nd. The have different atmospheres completely yet similar types of food, strange. We hopped onto the Sky train for the ride back to the Pen at about 11:30. Got into bed by 1:00 am. Somewhere today after we came back I also had a Thai massage downstairs at the Pen. 1400 baht for 1 hour but well worth it I thought. Therapist’s name was Yupia. Tomorrow Hong Kong

i'm so glad you liked biscotti...for some reason not many fodorites seem to go there even though i keep prodding....IT IS PROBABLY OUR FAVORITE IN BKK....we have it on our list twice this next trip...i have written down the place on soi 23 to see if i can fit it in too--thanks....we are in that area often...lots of good things on soi 23---baan khanitha, and bkk's best shop...rasi sayan....the delat restaurants too ...a great neighborhood to eat and shop in....

SO HAVE YOU BOUGHT YOUR NEXT TICKETS TO BKK YET?????

aloha hawaiiantraveler.....
love your report...sounds like you are enjoying so many of our favorite sites and hotels. we also spent days with ratt...
we are planning our return trip for october
...how did you purchase your UAL airfare
and can i ask the approx price you paid? i cannot find any deals right now!!!
how did you purchase shangrila and pen hotels? we will also be departing from hnl
and havent decided if we want to go back to the marriott or shangrila.
to change the subject...did you see the play...you somebody?????in hnl...my mother in law was the star......bob (rhmkhk
you are somebody....you have helped us all so much with great insightful info)
kathie...can i use your name too when we do
our jewelry shopping???
keep the trip report going..cant wait to hear more

dive---i know i am somebody--not just sure who....my wife calls me a jerk who spends his whole life on fodors....i reply that is how we get all this great travel info with personal insights that you cannot get from any guide book and it is often very recent info...

Peter-The report is wonderful. It's great to see BKK through your eyes, stomach and wallet. Your description of your first day 2 1/2 hour walk is exactly why we love BKK. Just being there is thrilling without the need for specific sites/sights. Thanks.

divediva

ua to bkk very expensive now, and i don't anticipate any good deals in the future. we in hi are at a disadvantage as like me, i am locked into their ff program, and we are also locked in geographically as ua has the most convenient flt skeds out of hi.

i turn green with envy when i see cheap flts to tokyo and bkk from sfo, lax, sea,ord, and especially iad. actually, iad has cheap flts to almost anywhere.(i think you can go to paris from iad for under $400)

the cost of my tkt for next months bkk trip was $615. i haven't seen anything less than $935 recently. there might be a point when some of us may consider changing to another carrier ie china air, as it is not only cheaper, but arrives at a decent time in bkk, instead of 11pm after a six hour layover in nrt. let me know if you find any good deals with ua to bkk. mahalo.

hawaiiantraveler -- loving your trip report! sounds like you had a great time. can't wait to hear the rest :) wish i would have made that stop to SJ now! sorry about harmonique, it was the best curry we had on the trip. they must have to bathrooms, the one i visited didn't have a men's urinal and wasn't too bad on cleanlieness (i only had 2 drinks, surely i would remember)! it is funny though how things just arrive randomly throughout everyone's meal. glad you had a good time with ratt too, we love her!

our best man who lives in HI often uses an asian airline which stops in taiwan on his way to bkk....he has found great fares with them....of course i forget which airline it is....

united had the $695 bkk flight price for about a year....strange how they change