Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report Traveling In Vietnam/Cambodia

I read a lot of online posts concerning travel in Vietnam and Cambodia. Reflecting on my extensive travel experience in Asia (China/Vietnam/Cambodia) - especially in Vietnam - I feel compelled to offer my advice. My background includes working and vacationing in Vietnam and Cambodia, and I recently married a woman from the north of VN. I do not speak VN. My advice:

Safety: Vietnam is a safe, friendly country for Americans. The South - for obvious reasons - seems to be a little friendlier than in the North. Like anywhere, watch out for those that take advantage of tourists. I have never traveled with an agency, but I always have a local contact that can guide and translate. I have made some excellent contacts on the Internet. Find them through your line of work, volunteer/NGO agencies, media, etc. In Saigon, local English-speaking college students will guide you around for free or a small fee. Much of my travel has been alone - and I've never had a problem. Be cautious at night and don't sling your backpack/purse/camera over one shoulder - it's a magnet for thieves. Rules for Chicago apply to any big city - be vigilant and awake. I feel safer in Hanoi than I do in St. Louis or Dallas. As for Cambodia, that's another story. Phnom Penh is not for the timid.

Travel Agency v. DIY: I've never used a travel agency. I arrange all of my travel and I travel alone or with my significant other. In Saigon, Hanoi, or other cities, I have always arranged for local guides or online friends (yeah, that seems risky, but play it smart). It is very easy to arrange flights from U.S. to Hanoi or Saigon (avoid layovers of anything less than two hours). I use Kayak or other websites for flights and never have any problems. I pre-pay all of my hotels through Agoda - again, never a problem and you don't have to worry about credit card problems or cash. Agoda is prepaid and you only need to carry a voucher - it's flawless and canceling/changing is easy.

Traveling: I have seen a lot of tourists using travel agencies and guided tours. For some, it's probably the only way the trip will happen. But the canned, preplanned tours miss a lot of the experience. Most of the tourist areas in Vietnam are crowded, boring, fake, and not worth the time or money. If you want to see the real Vietnam and visit the Vietnamese people, get out and walk around. Take a train ride. Have your hotel arrange a day-trip van to a small city (Vung Tau, etc.). Avoid the places that have people that look and speak like you. Hire a college or high school student to take you around. Rent a motorbike/scooter for the day. Don't be afraid of the people - they like you and want to hear you speak, etc. The Vietnamese people are beautiful and warm - make an effort to prove that you are too. Traveling alone in Cambodia can be dangerous. Stay in the tourist areas and be very careful.

Language: Most VN do not speak English. In the tourist areas, many do. Don't waste your time trying to learn the language, and don't try to use the language dictionaries. Unless you understand tones and tonal languages, just speak with your hands and eyes and do your best. Rely on hotel staff - they are often your saving grace. Lodge in the tourist areas (Saigon's District 1, Hanoi's Old Quarter, etc.) because staff can usually speak English - don't stay anywhere that does not have English-speaking staff! In Cambodia, some of the youth speak English - but they are shy. Tourist areas have plenty of English-speaking staff and locals. Language in the tourist areas is not a problem.

Off The Beaten Path: Saigon and Hanoi are wonderful places, full of history, architecture, culture, and food. However, these places are busy and crowded. I like to venture out, where life is slower and the culture is more intact. An hour outside Hanoi or Saigon puts you into the countryside. I like Tay Ninh City in Tay Ninh Province near the Cambodia border. The Binh Hoa hotel has English-speaking staff. A great city for walking around, taking photos, and talking to locals. Phnom Penh is about four hours away.

My Favorite Place: Nha Trang in Khanh Hoa Province, located about one hour flight north of Saigon. This is a beautiful city along the South China Sea, where sunshine and nightlife exist in abundance. Slow pace, excellent food, very affordable hotels, and an interesting influx of Russians makes this small city a great getaway. Snorkeling/diving is awesome - and very inexpensive. Get out and walk the beach or visit the Po Nagar Cham Towers. At night, the Luna Bar offers a great rooftop view of the beach and interesting outdoor entertainment. The 2008 Miss Universe pageant was held in Nha Trang.

Conclusion: Vietnam is a booming country, eager to shed its past and embrace the future. Americans are welcomed with open arms, and even the tourism prices won't keep you opening your wallet. Inexpensive, beautiful, friendly, and safe - a great escape for any Asian holiday.