Chiang Rai and Bangkok Trip Report
May 12th, 2007, 05:41 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Chiang Rai and Bangkok Trip Report
We left Chiang Mai the next day for a 4 hour drive to Chiang Rai. For the most part, the roads were good through the mountains and there were 4 lane highways.
One of my favorite temples is about 20 kilometers from Lampang; the temple of Wat Phrathat Lampang Luang, built in 1486 and is believed to be one of the oldest wooden buildings in Thailand. To reach the complex, you climb a small flight of stairs flanked by beautiful, intricately carved lintels depicting intertwined dragon heads. The wiharn (prayer hall) is open on all four sides, forming a huge covered hall with gorgeous hand painted mural that run on along the inside eaves. Gorgeous wood columns support the roof and are finished in black lacquer and stenciled with gold leaf designs. As you leave the complex, you go past an ancient bodhi tree whose branches are supported by a forest of long sticks with prayers that worshipers have written. Lord Buddha is said to have rested under this tree, so it has become an important pilgrimage site. I wouldn’t miss this temple.
I love my photo of the monk on the cell phone leaning against a pillar in the temple. I was very surprised to see a monk with a cell phone, but our guide told us that monks rely on the generosity of people, and cannot refuse a gift. Someone must have given him a cell phone and paid for the usage. More than likely, so he can keep in touch with his family I was told.
Along the way, we stopped at the Doi Tung Royal Villa which was built in 1987 for the Queens Mother. She started a wonderful project that employs the local crafts people and forested all the hills around which used to be covered with one of the largest opium fields in the Thai territory with native trees. Unfortunately, I was not so impressed with the Swiss-Thai log cabin style home. You have to walk uphill about a quarter of a mile to the house (in 100 temperatures!), and I was underwhelmed by the 80’s feeling of the home and furnishings. I was expecting a traditional teak house I guess filled with Thai antiques, which this is not. There are beautiful gardens to visit as well on the grounds.
One of my favorite temples is about 20 kilometers from Lampang; the temple of Wat Phrathat Lampang Luang, built in 1486 and is believed to be one of the oldest wooden buildings in Thailand. To reach the complex, you climb a small flight of stairs flanked by beautiful, intricately carved lintels depicting intertwined dragon heads. The wiharn (prayer hall) is open on all four sides, forming a huge covered hall with gorgeous hand painted mural that run on along the inside eaves. Gorgeous wood columns support the roof and are finished in black lacquer and stenciled with gold leaf designs. As you leave the complex, you go past an ancient bodhi tree whose branches are supported by a forest of long sticks with prayers that worshipers have written. Lord Buddha is said to have rested under this tree, so it has become an important pilgrimage site. I wouldn’t miss this temple.
I love my photo of the monk on the cell phone leaning against a pillar in the temple. I was very surprised to see a monk with a cell phone, but our guide told us that monks rely on the generosity of people, and cannot refuse a gift. Someone must have given him a cell phone and paid for the usage. More than likely, so he can keep in touch with his family I was told.
Along the way, we stopped at the Doi Tung Royal Villa which was built in 1987 for the Queens Mother. She started a wonderful project that employs the local crafts people and forested all the hills around which used to be covered with one of the largest opium fields in the Thai territory with native trees. Unfortunately, I was not so impressed with the Swiss-Thai log cabin style home. You have to walk uphill about a quarter of a mile to the house (in 100 temperatures!), and I was underwhelmed by the 80’s feeling of the home and furnishings. I was expecting a traditional teak house I guess filled with Thai antiques, which this is not. There are beautiful gardens to visit as well on the grounds.
May 12th, 2007, 06:42 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sally, while the Princess Mother's home is not my style, did you know that all of the pine that the house is panelled with came from discarded packing crates? She was invested in living "green" and her home was a demonstration of her philosophy.
May 13th, 2007, 08:13 AM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Before we got to our resort for the night, we stopped at one of the Hilltribe villages. “Hilltribes” is a term for all of the various tribal peoples who migrated from southern China, Laos, and Myanmar (Burma) over the past few centuries. I was told there are over 3,000 Hilltribe villages in the North. They now inhabit the remote border areas between Northern Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. These peoples represent a myriad of languages, cultures, styles of dress and belief systems. There was an entrance sign that read Union of Hilltribe Villages, and I am not sure how many villages are set up to have tourists in Northern Thailand. It had 4 different tribes, each with their own housing in small villages on the large property, and I never did understand if these people exclusively lived on site, or if they came on to the property each day for tourist visits as a means of earning a living. I had very mixed emotions about visiting the place and felt like a gawker at a human zoo, but I was also very interested and inquisitive to see how these people lived. I certainly respect indigenous tribes and cultures, and am fascinated with traditional dress and way of life, so that got the best of me and I was really looking forward to the visit. Unfortunately, in general, these people are not treated well in Thailand, and I have been told they are not given a Thai identity card which makes it almost impossible for them to receive proper medical care and an education. We have the same plight in the U.S. with immigrants and I see this problem as a world-wide quandary, and not something intrinsic to Thailand.
The first village we came to was the Akha who emigrated from China. There are roughly 70,000 now living in Thailand. The women wore heavily ornamented peaked headdress and short skirts with leggings that were made from materials such as beaten silver coins, gibbon fur, beads, seeds and feathered tassels. The women's dress consists of a jacket, a simple blouse. This is completed by a sash with a front-piece hanging below the hem of the skirt, and the ornate headdress. The cloth is woven by the Akha from cotton grown in their fields, and is dyed in indigo. They were so gracious and inviting and even gave me a handmade shell bracelet. They all gathered in the large bamboo and thatched roof building and performed a song while using large bamboo poles for percussion. Each tribe had several stalls of handmade items for sale. Each person I took a photo of, I gave some money which helped me a little to overcome my discomfort in invading their village with my camera, but I was still left with a feeling of intrusion in these peoples’ lives.
The second settling we came to was (I think) the Yao or Mien tribe. In Thailand there are approximately 55,000 Yao who originated from southern China. The Yao tribe wears a black turban and a black or dark-blue tunic ankle length tunic. Underneath are worn heavily embroidered pants. One of the main features of their tunics is a large red ruff that is sewn into the front edge and collar of the tunic. A broad sash completes the dress.
The 3rd tribe I believe was the Lahu tribe who are originally from Myanmar. The predominant color of their dress was black and they wore a blouse and vest or jacket with bands of embroidered ribbon and a long black skirt decorated with colorful embroidery.
The last tribe was the Padaung or long necks who are part of the large Karen tribe who are believed to have originated in Burma. There are as many as 280,000 Karen’s living in Thailand. The Padaung dress is the relatively simple (for hilltribes) combination of a blouse and a long sarong-style skirt. Often it is the lower part of the blouse that is embroidered, while some designs are particularly strong, with bright, large motifs. Beads of all kinds make up an important part of Karen jewelry. The particular Karen tribe we visited – the Padaung or long necks, the women traditionally wear permanently-worn brass rings that are added regularly from girlhood. The stack of thick rings (that weigh around 8 pounds!) slowly pushes down on the collar-bone to give the appearance of a strangely elongated neck. We saw little girls, around 4 years of age with several rings on their necks, so they start this adornment quite young. The people of all of the tribes were very kind and even though I felt like we were intruding on their space, they made us feel welcome.
more on staying at the Anantara.....
The first village we came to was the Akha who emigrated from China. There are roughly 70,000 now living in Thailand. The women wore heavily ornamented peaked headdress and short skirts with leggings that were made from materials such as beaten silver coins, gibbon fur, beads, seeds and feathered tassels. The women's dress consists of a jacket, a simple blouse. This is completed by a sash with a front-piece hanging below the hem of the skirt, and the ornate headdress. The cloth is woven by the Akha from cotton grown in their fields, and is dyed in indigo. They were so gracious and inviting and even gave me a handmade shell bracelet. They all gathered in the large bamboo and thatched roof building and performed a song while using large bamboo poles for percussion. Each tribe had several stalls of handmade items for sale. Each person I took a photo of, I gave some money which helped me a little to overcome my discomfort in invading their village with my camera, but I was still left with a feeling of intrusion in these peoples’ lives.
The second settling we came to was (I think) the Yao or Mien tribe. In Thailand there are approximately 55,000 Yao who originated from southern China. The Yao tribe wears a black turban and a black or dark-blue tunic ankle length tunic. Underneath are worn heavily embroidered pants. One of the main features of their tunics is a large red ruff that is sewn into the front edge and collar of the tunic. A broad sash completes the dress.
The 3rd tribe I believe was the Lahu tribe who are originally from Myanmar. The predominant color of their dress was black and they wore a blouse and vest or jacket with bands of embroidered ribbon and a long black skirt decorated with colorful embroidery.
The last tribe was the Padaung or long necks who are part of the large Karen tribe who are believed to have originated in Burma. There are as many as 280,000 Karen’s living in Thailand. The Padaung dress is the relatively simple (for hilltribes) combination of a blouse and a long sarong-style skirt. Often it is the lower part of the blouse that is embroidered, while some designs are particularly strong, with bright, large motifs. Beads of all kinds make up an important part of Karen jewelry. The particular Karen tribe we visited – the Padaung or long necks, the women traditionally wear permanently-worn brass rings that are added regularly from girlhood. The stack of thick rings (that weigh around 8 pounds!) slowly pushes down on the collar-bone to give the appearance of a strangely elongated neck. We saw little girls, around 4 years of age with several rings on their necks, so they start this adornment quite young. The people of all of the tribes were very kind and even though I felt like we were intruding on their space, they made us feel welcome.
more on staying at the Anantara.....
May 14th, 2007, 06:47 AM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We stayed at the fabulous Anantara Resort. The architecture is incredible and it combines traditional northern Thai aesthetics with a contemporary twist. As you drive up to the hotel you are greeted with several reflection ponds that bring instant calm as you walk up to the large open-air marble hallway decorated with elephant statues opening into a soaring atrium intricately built of timber. The main restaurant and Opium Bar both lay off this main lobby, both fully open to the spectacular views of Myanmar and the Laos mountains just the other side of the Mekong River (which we could barely see through the haze!).
The rooms are an adequate size, well appointed, and have a wonderful contemporary Lanna style. There was a beautiful bowl of rose apples set out for our arrival in the room. The bathroom is interesting in that it opens up to the bedroom and has a sliding privacy screen to close the shower area off from the bedroom (see photo to explain). The bathtub/shower is a huge, deep rectangular tub (the largest I have ever seen) with a fabulous wooden table that is set over the tub with a great set up for reading a book in the bath. The rooms all have secluded patios with a table and chairs and provide fabulous views of the mountains (when you can see them through the smoke). I have heard there is a mosquito problem in the area, and unlike the Rachamankha which had set out complimentary natural mosquito repellent, the Anantara had some for sale in the room. I had a few bites along my trip, but nothing severe. The bed was comfortable and we had no complaints.
The swimming pool is gorgeous, and has wonderful statues of elephants that surround the pool. That evening, I decided to go swimming after dinner and the pool was officially closed so I had it all to myself which was wonderful. It didn’t seem heated, but it was great to get my core body temperature down for the first time in days, and it really felt refreshing and super relaxing.
The next morning I had a great 1 hour massage for $90 in their beautiful and serene spa. The hotel has an elephant camp for those interested in interacting up close and hands-on with elephants, as well as a cooking school. The hotel is a bit secluded and a distance from town, and I think I saw a free shuttle, although the resort really has all you would ever need in creature comforts. We dined at their Thai restaurant that is open to the beautiful views. For appetizers we sampled their delicious chicken satay with peanut sauce, and crab and shrimp deep fried rolls. The main course was their table-side grilled beef with vegetables, and their yellow chicken curry which was really good. The dishes were presented beautifully, and the meal came to around $42. After dinner, I stopped in the Opium bar/lobby to use their internet. I think it was $4 for 15 minutes, but they only have one computer which is a problem for such a large hotel. I didn't really have a need for a business center, but am not sure if they did have a business center.
They have a beautiful gift shop with fabulous (expensive) antiques, and unique jewelry, books, etc.
We were definitely affected by the forest fires and crop burning they are having in the region. It did impact our ability to see the mountains, and if you have a respiratory condition, you might have problems with the smoke. When you walked out of your hotel room, you were immediately hit with a caustic breath of bad air, but I soon get used to it and it didn’t really bother me too much. There was a perpetual haze over the entire area which diminishes the vibrancy of color that is so evident in Thailand which was a shame.
The resort is only a 15 minute drive to the town of Mae Sae which is the northernmost Thai town on the Myanmar (Burmese) border. We watched the Burmese people crossing the bridge that separates the 2 countries. Mae Sae has great shopping with a lot of reproduction antiques at wonderful prices. They also had a huge selection of jewelry, souvenirs, and other knick-knacks. I was really upset that we didn’t have more time there, but it’s amazing what one can buy in 20 minutes with no- nonsense bargaining!
We also stopped for a longtail speedboat tour on the Mekong River. At one point, you are in the middle of the river where the borders of three countries, Laos, Myanmar and Thailand (also called the Golden Triangle) come together. A very unique experience. When we got out of the van, we were immediately greeted by a little gang of kids dressed in the traditional Akha style and they would run up to you and break into song. They were adorable and I was happy to give them money for their families who were watching nearby. Again, probably not politically correct, but at least they were making some money. I can’t save the world!
The Anantara is right across the street from the Opium Museum which I have heard is very interesting, but we didn’t have the time to visit. I really wish we had more time in Northern Thailand. I feel I only got a small glimpse at the amazing countryside and only barely scratched the surface of the beauty of the area. I will definitely go back and would like to spend more time in the less touristy areas.
The next morning we set off for a few days in Bangkok!
Photos of Chiang Rai-
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/sscj2/al...pageoption=ALL (make sure to scroll down to view all the photos)
The rooms are an adequate size, well appointed, and have a wonderful contemporary Lanna style. There was a beautiful bowl of rose apples set out for our arrival in the room. The bathroom is interesting in that it opens up to the bedroom and has a sliding privacy screen to close the shower area off from the bedroom (see photo to explain). The bathtub/shower is a huge, deep rectangular tub (the largest I have ever seen) with a fabulous wooden table that is set over the tub with a great set up for reading a book in the bath. The rooms all have secluded patios with a table and chairs and provide fabulous views of the mountains (when you can see them through the smoke). I have heard there is a mosquito problem in the area, and unlike the Rachamankha which had set out complimentary natural mosquito repellent, the Anantara had some for sale in the room. I had a few bites along my trip, but nothing severe. The bed was comfortable and we had no complaints.
The swimming pool is gorgeous, and has wonderful statues of elephants that surround the pool. That evening, I decided to go swimming after dinner and the pool was officially closed so I had it all to myself which was wonderful. It didn’t seem heated, but it was great to get my core body temperature down for the first time in days, and it really felt refreshing and super relaxing.
The next morning I had a great 1 hour massage for $90 in their beautiful and serene spa. The hotel has an elephant camp for those interested in interacting up close and hands-on with elephants, as well as a cooking school. The hotel is a bit secluded and a distance from town, and I think I saw a free shuttle, although the resort really has all you would ever need in creature comforts. We dined at their Thai restaurant that is open to the beautiful views. For appetizers we sampled their delicious chicken satay with peanut sauce, and crab and shrimp deep fried rolls. The main course was their table-side grilled beef with vegetables, and their yellow chicken curry which was really good. The dishes were presented beautifully, and the meal came to around $42. After dinner, I stopped in the Opium bar/lobby to use their internet. I think it was $4 for 15 minutes, but they only have one computer which is a problem for such a large hotel. I didn't really have a need for a business center, but am not sure if they did have a business center.
They have a beautiful gift shop with fabulous (expensive) antiques, and unique jewelry, books, etc.
We were definitely affected by the forest fires and crop burning they are having in the region. It did impact our ability to see the mountains, and if you have a respiratory condition, you might have problems with the smoke. When you walked out of your hotel room, you were immediately hit with a caustic breath of bad air, but I soon get used to it and it didn’t really bother me too much. There was a perpetual haze over the entire area which diminishes the vibrancy of color that is so evident in Thailand which was a shame.
The resort is only a 15 minute drive to the town of Mae Sae which is the northernmost Thai town on the Myanmar (Burmese) border. We watched the Burmese people crossing the bridge that separates the 2 countries. Mae Sae has great shopping with a lot of reproduction antiques at wonderful prices. They also had a huge selection of jewelry, souvenirs, and other knick-knacks. I was really upset that we didn’t have more time there, but it’s amazing what one can buy in 20 minutes with no- nonsense bargaining!
We also stopped for a longtail speedboat tour on the Mekong River. At one point, you are in the middle of the river where the borders of three countries, Laos, Myanmar and Thailand (also called the Golden Triangle) come together. A very unique experience. When we got out of the van, we were immediately greeted by a little gang of kids dressed in the traditional Akha style and they would run up to you and break into song. They were adorable and I was happy to give them money for their families who were watching nearby. Again, probably not politically correct, but at least they were making some money. I can’t save the world!
The Anantara is right across the street from the Opium Museum which I have heard is very interesting, but we didn’t have the time to visit. I really wish we had more time in Northern Thailand. I feel I only got a small glimpse at the amazing countryside and only barely scratched the surface of the beauty of the area. I will definitely go back and would like to spend more time in the less touristy areas.
The next morning we set off for a few days in Bangkok!
Photos of Chiang Rai-
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/sscj2/al...pageoption=ALL (make sure to scroll down to view all the photos)
May 15th, 2007, 05:56 AM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The next day we set off for 2 days in Bangkok. I had arranged on the internet at the suggestion of several Fodorites to arrange for a round trip limo pickup at the airport by AAC limo. I made my reservation on line, gave it my credit card and was excited everything was taken care of. When we arrived at the airport, the driver was there to greet us and swept us quickly away to the awaiting later model Mercedes and we were on our way. Upon arrival at the Royal Orchid Sheraton, he asked for payment and I was really disappointed the entire transaction hadn’t worked correctly, and I had to scramble for money to pay the driver (I didn’t get more baht at the airport). It would have been great if their web site completed the transaction. A minor blip. The ROS does not have an ATM machine on their premise (hard to believe), and I had to go next door to River City to find one.
We have been to Bangkok before, so our sightseeing trips were a little different this time. We like staying on the river and have stayed at the Shangri-La twice before which is a nice hotel (love the Salathip Restaurant on the property). We thought we would try the Royal Orchid Sheraton (because we got a good rate) and upgraded to their Towers Rooms (I think it was only $38) which really gives you a lot more benefits and I would highly recommend. You get the use of their club lounge for complimentary breakfast, afternoon cocktails, free internet, and free laundry (6 pieces a day) which was a welcome amenity! I didn’t think the concierge in the club lounge was that helpful in giving us shopping suggestions, but the other wait staff was very pleasant. The rooms were fine and overlooked the river. They aren’t super luxurious, but they are good, and the location is great if you like to shop for antiques at River City Mall and it’s right on the river. I was disappointed not to find all the street vendors that I remembered from previous visits that surround the hotel area. There are a lot of food stalls, but I really wanted to shop for silk, cotton, and souvenirs. This area now seems to have a lot of bead stores.
After getting some great advice from well-seasoned Fodorites (thanks Kathie and Bob!), I decided to hire a driver for the day. A month before we left, I tried about 5 of the guides that have been recommended here (all were busy that day), and finally went with Ratt who was also busy that day but suggested one of her drivers. My morning started at 6:30am when the driver – Mr. Yuth (at Ratt’s suggestion and cost around 2,200 baht for the driver) picked us up and took us to buy food kits for the monks. You buy rice, an entrée, dessert, flowers, and incense (560 baht for the food) and then take it to one of the temples. We arrived at a beautiful temple Wat Benchamabophit (the Marble temple) and he got out his little portable table. We observed that a lot of people were doing the same. It is a huge part of the Thai Buddhist religion to give alms to the monks each day and it was interesting to see the myriad of locals who were giving alms. The monks line up with their large bowls with lids, and receive their food for the day. It was a wonderful experience.
Our driver took us back to the hotel so we could have breakfast. He picked us up at 8:00 and we set off for the Prasart Museum - 9 Soi Krungthepkreetha 4A, Srinakarin Road, Huamark, Bangkapi tel: +66 2 379-3601, 379-3607. You have to make reservations and they only take small groups and ours was at 9:00. It was about a 45 minute drive to the museum. We were greeted by our fabulous and enthusiastic tour guide Peter and he whisked us away into the compound. It was unbelievably beautiful!!! Mr. Prasart (the Donald Trump of Bangkok!) has been an avid collector all his life and he bought this huge property and hired artisans to replicate Thai pavilions, Chinese temples, Khmer chapels, and designed beautiful grounds. He has housed his fabulous collection of pottery, furniture, manuscripts, paintings, porcelain etc. in the gorgeous buildings, and it was one of the most beautiful “museums” I have ever been to. After the tour, you are taken to the gift shop where you can meet Mr. Prasart. He was very unassuming and quite casual, and it was great to talk to him about his passion of collecting. His souvenirs run the gamut of price, but the piece I had my eye on was a 5-inch hand carved beautiful praying monk and it was $750!!! Not quite the little souvenir shops I am used to! I really recommend this museum, especially for those who have been to Bangkok before and seen the major sights.
We then went to the Kamthieng House that is owned and operated by the Siam Society on 131 Soi 21 (Asoke) Sukhumvit Road. (BTS Skytrain to Asoke station. Subway to Sukhumvit station.) It is a 200 year old traditional northern style Thai house and is regarded as one of the rare examples of traditional Lanna architecture and art. It took two years to plan, dismantle and move the old house from Chiang Mai to be reassembled in the grounds of the Siam Society in Bangkok. You get a wonderful sense of the Lanna lifestyle, rituals, beliefs, family life, culture, art and architecture, and they have videos of several rituals and way of life which are very interesting.
Mr. Yuth spoke some English, and he was very punctual, nice, and considerate. His taxi was in good shape and the air conditioner worked well (a must!!!). I would recommend him if you don't need a lot of information about the city.
We have been to Bangkok before, so our sightseeing trips were a little different this time. We like staying on the river and have stayed at the Shangri-La twice before which is a nice hotel (love the Salathip Restaurant on the property). We thought we would try the Royal Orchid Sheraton (because we got a good rate) and upgraded to their Towers Rooms (I think it was only $38) which really gives you a lot more benefits and I would highly recommend. You get the use of their club lounge for complimentary breakfast, afternoon cocktails, free internet, and free laundry (6 pieces a day) which was a welcome amenity! I didn’t think the concierge in the club lounge was that helpful in giving us shopping suggestions, but the other wait staff was very pleasant. The rooms were fine and overlooked the river. They aren’t super luxurious, but they are good, and the location is great if you like to shop for antiques at River City Mall and it’s right on the river. I was disappointed not to find all the street vendors that I remembered from previous visits that surround the hotel area. There are a lot of food stalls, but I really wanted to shop for silk, cotton, and souvenirs. This area now seems to have a lot of bead stores.
After getting some great advice from well-seasoned Fodorites (thanks Kathie and Bob!), I decided to hire a driver for the day. A month before we left, I tried about 5 of the guides that have been recommended here (all were busy that day), and finally went with Ratt who was also busy that day but suggested one of her drivers. My morning started at 6:30am when the driver – Mr. Yuth (at Ratt’s suggestion and cost around 2,200 baht for the driver) picked us up and took us to buy food kits for the monks. You buy rice, an entrée, dessert, flowers, and incense (560 baht for the food) and then take it to one of the temples. We arrived at a beautiful temple Wat Benchamabophit (the Marble temple) and he got out his little portable table. We observed that a lot of people were doing the same. It is a huge part of the Thai Buddhist religion to give alms to the monks each day and it was interesting to see the myriad of locals who were giving alms. The monks line up with their large bowls with lids, and receive their food for the day. It was a wonderful experience.
Our driver took us back to the hotel so we could have breakfast. He picked us up at 8:00 and we set off for the Prasart Museum - 9 Soi Krungthepkreetha 4A, Srinakarin Road, Huamark, Bangkapi tel: +66 2 379-3601, 379-3607. You have to make reservations and they only take small groups and ours was at 9:00. It was about a 45 minute drive to the museum. We were greeted by our fabulous and enthusiastic tour guide Peter and he whisked us away into the compound. It was unbelievably beautiful!!! Mr. Prasart (the Donald Trump of Bangkok!) has been an avid collector all his life and he bought this huge property and hired artisans to replicate Thai pavilions, Chinese temples, Khmer chapels, and designed beautiful grounds. He has housed his fabulous collection of pottery, furniture, manuscripts, paintings, porcelain etc. in the gorgeous buildings, and it was one of the most beautiful “museums” I have ever been to. After the tour, you are taken to the gift shop where you can meet Mr. Prasart. He was very unassuming and quite casual, and it was great to talk to him about his passion of collecting. His souvenirs run the gamut of price, but the piece I had my eye on was a 5-inch hand carved beautiful praying monk and it was $750!!! Not quite the little souvenir shops I am used to! I really recommend this museum, especially for those who have been to Bangkok before and seen the major sights.
We then went to the Kamthieng House that is owned and operated by the Siam Society on 131 Soi 21 (Asoke) Sukhumvit Road. (BTS Skytrain to Asoke station. Subway to Sukhumvit station.) It is a 200 year old traditional northern style Thai house and is regarded as one of the rare examples of traditional Lanna architecture and art. It took two years to plan, dismantle and move the old house from Chiang Mai to be reassembled in the grounds of the Siam Society in Bangkok. You get a wonderful sense of the Lanna lifestyle, rituals, beliefs, family life, culture, art and architecture, and they have videos of several rituals and way of life which are very interesting.
Mr. Yuth spoke some English, and he was very punctual, nice, and considerate. His taxi was in good shape and the air conditioner worked well (a must!!!). I would recommend him if you don't need a lot of information about the city.
May 16th, 2007, 09:35 AM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
By then it was time for lunch, and we went to the Baan Khanitha and Gallery (Sathorn location – I guess they have 2 locations), on 69 South Sathorn Rd. Thungmahamek, Sathorn District. It was a pretty dining room, but I was a little distracted by the modern paintings that run under the eaves of the room. They serve you a complimentary appetizer of lettuce wrap that has an array of fresh ginger, dried coconut and shrimp, peanuts, lime, etc. and you wrap it up and dip it in this wonderful sauce. Very nummy. We had the spring rolls, Padang -yellow chicken curry, crisp fish sautéed in garlic, jasmine rice and it was all very good. The dessert was the stand out for us! We had the sticky rice (cooked in coconut milk) with fresh mango, and their home made coconut ice cream with pistachios and it was out of this world delicious!
After lunch, we drove about 30 minutes out of town to a wonderful antique shop, café and gallery - Amantee at 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, tel: 02-982-8694-5 website www.amantee.com. The gracious owner is from Quebec and has lived in Bangkok for years following his passion of collecting Oriental and Tibetan antiques and art. They have a café on the premise, and you can also rent out the entire place for corporate and cocktail parties. He said he was voted hipped one room hotel in Bangkok because you can rent out the entire compound which includes a bedroom, living room, swimming pool etc. and it is a beautiful teak home with fabulous antiques. I would recommend calling before you go just in case he might be having an event.
The next day we went to the Oriental for lunch and had a great meal followed by 2 fabulous desserts (do you see a theme here?!)– sticky rice with mango and mango sherbet, and tapioca pudding with raspberry sherbet and sauce, with a beautiful side of the most gorgeous marzipan miniature fruit glazed with gelee. They were too pretty to eat. The Oriental is a beautiful hotel and I love to look at their flower arrangements. I am going to stay at this legendary hotel on my next visit.
We also went to the MBK mall which was a bit disappointing (a lot of teen clothing, cell phone stores etc.) until I got to the 6th floor which has mainly souvenirs. I bought a few things, but a lot of it is the same in each stall. The mall is really for young adults, and the sizes are very small even for slim westerners. At least it was air conditioned so we weren’t completely sweltering.
This trip I noticed that the cars have really gone upscale and weren’t all honking like they were several years ago. Supposedly, the King made a suggestion that the drivers refrain from honking, and almost overnight, there has been silence (or somewhat!) ever since. The King’s presence is everywhere because it is his 80th birthday and the entire royal family is very revered. There are shrines to him on every block, including the northern part of Thailand we visited. While we were there, a Swiss tourist was apparently jailed for 10 years after he got drunk and defaced a poster of the King. Think about how many Americans would be jailed if we had the same laws in the U.S. regarding George Bush!
I still love Bangkok, and would like to go back to the north of Thailand to explore more of the temples. We really had a quick trip and didn’t do it justice. Maybe I will add a few days at one of the beach resorts in the south to unwind after the trip as well!
Photos of Bangkok-
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/sscj2/al...60762398207593
After lunch, we drove about 30 minutes out of town to a wonderful antique shop, café and gallery - Amantee at 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, tel: 02-982-8694-5 website www.amantee.com. The gracious owner is from Quebec and has lived in Bangkok for years following his passion of collecting Oriental and Tibetan antiques and art. They have a café on the premise, and you can also rent out the entire place for corporate and cocktail parties. He said he was voted hipped one room hotel in Bangkok because you can rent out the entire compound which includes a bedroom, living room, swimming pool etc. and it is a beautiful teak home with fabulous antiques. I would recommend calling before you go just in case he might be having an event.
The next day we went to the Oriental for lunch and had a great meal followed by 2 fabulous desserts (do you see a theme here?!)– sticky rice with mango and mango sherbet, and tapioca pudding with raspberry sherbet and sauce, with a beautiful side of the most gorgeous marzipan miniature fruit glazed with gelee. They were too pretty to eat. The Oriental is a beautiful hotel and I love to look at their flower arrangements. I am going to stay at this legendary hotel on my next visit.
We also went to the MBK mall which was a bit disappointing (a lot of teen clothing, cell phone stores etc.) until I got to the 6th floor which has mainly souvenirs. I bought a few things, but a lot of it is the same in each stall. The mall is really for young adults, and the sizes are very small even for slim westerners. At least it was air conditioned so we weren’t completely sweltering.
This trip I noticed that the cars have really gone upscale and weren’t all honking like they were several years ago. Supposedly, the King made a suggestion that the drivers refrain from honking, and almost overnight, there has been silence (or somewhat!) ever since. The King’s presence is everywhere because it is his 80th birthday and the entire royal family is very revered. There are shrines to him on every block, including the northern part of Thailand we visited. While we were there, a Swiss tourist was apparently jailed for 10 years after he got drunk and defaced a poster of the King. Think about how many Americans would be jailed if we had the same laws in the U.S. regarding George Bush!
I still love Bangkok, and would like to go back to the north of Thailand to explore more of the temples. We really had a quick trip and didn’t do it justice. Maybe I will add a few days at one of the beach resorts in the south to unwind after the trip as well!
Photos of Bangkok-
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/sscj2/al...60762398207593
May 16th, 2007, 04:06 PM
#16
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
glorialf- It was the Lord Jim Restaurant in the Oriental that we had lunch. We really needed air conditioning at that point, so we ate indoors. I have also eaten at their riverside restaurant which was great. I'm not sure why the Prasart is not more well known either. It really is a pretty place, and his collection is so interesting. I felt like we were in on a secret place when we were there, and it was so nice not to have other tourists around. We had the place to ourselves which is so unusual for a museum.
Kathie- Your recommendations were fabulous and we really enjoyed them. We bought a few things at Amantee and really enjoyed being shown around the grounds by the owner. What a nice guy. Thank you again.
Kathie- Your recommendations were fabulous and we really enjoyed them. We bought a few things at Amantee and really enjoyed being shown around the grounds by the owner. What a nice guy. Thank you again.
Jun 14th, 2007, 12:49 AM
#19
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looks like Sally followed roughly the same itinerary that my wife and I did in March/April, including a stay at the Anantara Resort in the Golden Triangle. Elephants carousing below the spa where we were enjoying a couples massage was a highlight, as was playing tag with the five month old baby pachyderm, Pompui. Amazing. Be sure to drive from Golden Triangle to Chiang Mai...it's incredible. On the subject of hilltribe villages, be aware that disreputable Thais exploit the Hilltribes, displacing them to transient villages and charging entry fees for tourists to buy their wares and browse. Very odd, artificial and pushy ("Looky, looky..." from countless old tribeswomen who pressed into tourists in a commercial feeding frenzy.) If you're going to see the Hilltribes, check around to make sure you're heading to an authentic site. If you have time to make the drive over the mountains from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son, do it. It's a lovely town across the border from Myanmar and is in the heartland of reclaimed poppy fields, which the Royal Family converted to tea plantations, parks and farmland. Great elephant trekking, hiking, etc. We stayed at the Fern Resort, an eco-tourist hotel set among rice paddies at the foot of a mountain range. Open air restaurant where the hotel's dogs would keep you company and keep a keen eye out for extra breakfast sausages. Also be sure to attend the early-morning feeding of the monks in the center of Mae Hong Son, when monks stroll down from the temple to collect food from locals and offer a prayer. Such gentle souls, and such a feeling of communal commitment. Not to be missed.
