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-   -   Tips for Chiang Rai (or stop eleswhere ?) (https://www.fodors.com/community/asia/tips-for-chiang-rai-or-stop-eleswhere-1086405/)

julies Feb 12th, 2016 05:11 PM

Tips for Chiang Rai (or stop eleswhere ?)
 
We are nearing the end of our Cambodia and Laos trip, and we'll be flying home from Bangkok where I have 4 nights planned. We are doing the 2 day river trip from Luang Prabang, and will end up at the border in Chiang Khong in the evening. We can go directly to Chiang Rai from there that night and have 3 nights and two full days in Chiang Rai. Or, we could spend a night and part of a day in Chiang Khong or elsewhere before heading out to Chiang Rai.

I know many of you recommend Chiang Rai, but as I've been reading about it I am seeing that in many ways it is considered just a featureless town by many. True or not true? I don't think the White Temple calls to me, and we are trying to figure out if there really is enough to do spending a day just meandering around the city. I have been in contact with Jermsak, and he is offering us the opportunity to join another couple on the day trip that is rafting, a temple, hill tribe visit and maybe an (optional elephant ride). We've done elephant treks before as part of jungle safaris in Nepal and India, so this is not any huge attraction to me, but the other parts of the day sound interesting. If we did this, we'd have one day wandering the city on our won and the one day trip excursion.

We've now spent 4 nights trekking and boating and village visiting in Nong Khiau in northern Laos, so I am really trying to decide if we should also devote time to northern Thailand or just head to closer to Bangkok and spend a few days somewhere else. We also saw nearly all of the temples in the Siem Reap area.

Thoughts or advice anyone?

thanks much.

Kathie Feb 12th, 2016 06:22 PM

The place in that area that I enjoyed the most was Chiang Sean. There are some Buddhist ruins there and an excellent small museum. There is also a local market. I was last there many years ago and the market at Chiang Sean was the most authentic market I saw in Northern Thailand - no tourist merchandise at all. I'm not sure if there is any place to stay in town, but I think you might enjoy the place.

I liked Chiang Rai, mostly because it was completely unlike Chiang Mai. It is quiet town, but I wouldn't call it featureless.

I will admit I wasn't much impressed by the white temple, but many people do love it.

dgunbug Feb 12th, 2016 06:32 PM

Sorry, but I have to disagree. The white temple is like none you will ever see. We did not see it, but u learned afterward there is a black temple as well. I am sure a tour with jermsak would be wonderful. Also, if you are there on a Sunday evening, the market was the night market was fabulous.

sartoric Feb 12th, 2016 07:44 PM

Don't miss the Black House in Chiang Rai, I preferred it to the White Temple, but am glad I saw both. There'also a small hill tribe museum in town worth a short visit.

We had a day with Jermsak in Feb 2014, thoroughly enjoyed it. Rafting, a cave, hot springs, we chose not to do an elephant ride, but did see them up close in the river at the end of our raft. He walked us through a few villages with weaving on display and good quality handicrafts.

The night market in CR is home to the famous hot pot. It was just delicious, a steaming charcoal burner with hot stock, meat, seafood or chicken, myriad vegetables and herbs. The Saturday night walking street market is fun, and local food markets are interesting.

There's tea plantations within striking distance if that interests you.

sartoric Feb 12th, 2016 07:45 PM

PS - I'd go straight to Chiang Rai, not a lot to see in Chiang Khong.

crellston Feb 13th, 2016 12:28 AM

I feel both the White Temple and Black house were worth visiting, although I did prefer the Black House.Some photos on our blog http://accidentalnomads.com/2015/10/...ack-and-white/

If you are happy renting a car ( or car and driver) there is some stunning countryside and villages to be explored. Take a drive up to Mae Salong close to the Burmese border and the tea country.

If you are there on a Weekend, the Saturday Night walking market is a "must do" very colourful, superb food and little of the cheap tat seen all over CM markets. It is s shortish walk out if the centre and should be confused with the main night bazaar by the bus station right in the centre.

progol Feb 13th, 2016 02:37 AM

I agree with others - much to see in the region. I didn't find the city of Chiang Rai particularly appealing, but the region is stunning. And we also enjoyed the night market and had the hotpot (didn't know it was famous, though!).

And to be rather repetitive, we also loved the Black House much more than the White Temple. The Black House is an extensive property with many structures. It's also a lot less touristed and one can spend a fair amount of time exploring the property. The artist also lives there (although his house is not open to the public). The White Temple is an impressive sight, but it is very crowded with tourists. Worth a visit, but given your interests, it might not be worth it.

We also enjoyed our day with Jermsak and the raft ride was one of the loveliest memories we had. Of course, we were on our own with him, but sharing it with another couple could be very pleasant (or not!).

We also stayed one night in Mae Salong in the northern Chiang Rai area -- this is the region where the tea plantations are that sartoric mentions. We really enjoyed it - it's settled by the nationalist Chinese and it feels like a small town in China. We were there during the Chinese New year and everywhere you looked was red. It can be done as a day trip, although it was fun to spend the night in the region. We also stopped by one of the plantations for a tea tasting which was wonderful fun. We did have Jermsak as our guide for several days, which really helped, though.

So Chiang Rai definitely has a lot to offer, but I think you have to do some planning in order to really make it worthwhile.

dgunbug Feb 13th, 2016 04:26 AM

Be sure also to. Is it the queen's gardens. Sorry but don't recall the name. They are in the Chiangrai region and were stunning.

julies Feb 13th, 2016 06:33 AM

You've given me a lot of insight, but in the end we have decided to skip Chiang Rai and maybe save it for a future trip.

It all boiled down to the fact that we are tired and have just decided we don't want to add on any more destinations. Our 3.5 hour mini-van transfer from Nong Khiau to Luang Prabang today reminded us of how difficult and exhausting and slow travel in this part of the world can be. Rather than moving on quickly as we had thought we'd do, we've decided to just add in a couple days here where we are in Luang Prabang. It is that time in a trip (we've been gone 4.5 weeks) where exhaustion can set in, and we were very active and did some pretty arduous activities during our visit to Nong Khiau. The idea of a lot more packing up and moving on and getting up early to sightsee is just not sounding all that appealing. Thanks much anyway.

Kathie Feb 13th, 2016 07:45 AM

The Queen Mother's estate at Doi Tung is worthwhile. The now-deceased mother of the current king started many projects to decrease opium production in this area and provide alternate ways for hill tribes to bring in money. The tea plantations are part of that as are the coffee plantations. But it is a long drive up the mountain.

I can understand your need for some rest and relaxation. Enjoy some relaxing time in Luang Prabang, Julies!

sartoric Feb 13th, 2016 04:16 PM

It's a good thing to decide what's right for you and have the flexibility to alter plans.

It was exactly two years ago today - Valentine's Day, that we floated down the Mae Sok river with Jermsak. Like Progol says, it was memorable.
Anyway, always wise to leave something for next time I reckon.

Enjoy laid back Luang Prabang, there's almost no better place to chill out in SEAsia.

FromDC Feb 14th, 2016 02:17 AM

We loved our time in Chiang Rai with Jermsak, keep him in mind for when you do visit. Agree about Doi Tung as well, really lovely.

progol Feb 14th, 2016 04:43 AM

julies,
You've made a good decision for you and your husband -- no sense in trying to push yourself beyond what feels right and squeeze places into a trip just for the sake of seeing more. It needs to be pleasurable and you have had a good, active trip.

So if and when you return, you now have some wonderful suggestions -- and I do highly recommend Jermsak as a guide, as he is such a gentleman and good company. For those who understand, I'd say he's a bit of a mensch!*

*mensch: Yiddish for "a person of integrity and honor".


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