Through the Looking Glass-32 Days in India &32 Hours in Istanbul
Jul 12th, 2006, 08:35 PM
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Thanks for the report. Your trip sounds plenty fun. I've always wanted one on an Intrepid Trip. I'm planning on an Intrepid Trip in October....am wondering if everyone in your group brought backpacks? And the accommodations on average was good, as in, clean and comfy?
Jul 13th, 2006, 02:06 AM
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Massagediva - I am really enjoying your report and can't wait to hear more about your adventures. I am in the process of planning my first trip to India for January, so this is awesome! Keep it coming.
Jul 13th, 2006, 03:57 AM
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Brilliant - tours are tours - but some budget adventure companies offer an amazing diversity of experience, and great value for money. Not many reports on this board about them - it's all car and driver stuff.
Horses for courses - and I won't say more except that I am enjoying your report enormously.
Thx for posting.
Horses for courses - and I won't say more except that I am enjoying your report enormously.
Thx for posting.
Jul 13th, 2006, 05:14 AM
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Janna G-
Good question about the backpacks.This is a huge decision.The happiest people on our trip were the ones who travelled the lightest.Most of us had backpacks,but some brought more of a duffle type.
I had bought a backpack(I'd never travelled with one before)and hated it from day one.It hadn't occurred to me,that its design would prove to be a real pain in the gluteus.It opened from the top,so everytime I wanted something,I practically had to dump everything out!Not fun.Of course,I had brought too much,not realizing how much I really could have gotten there.
In addition to the backpack,I had brought a small bag,my gym bag really,the rattiest old thing I have,to deliver some winter clothes I was taking to donate to the earthquake victims in Kashmir.I was able to leave that small bag in the baggage office at the Hotel Swati until my return two weeks later.At that point,I pared down to the bare essentials and transfered to my gym bag for the rest of the trip.I can't express how much happier I was!
Another thought about packing-Every hotel we used had a Dhobi-Walla(spelling?)meaning laundry guy.You can have your laundry done very cheaply.This was a terrific convenience,especially since I had pared down to just about four outfits.
Good question about the backpacks.This is a huge decision.The happiest people on our trip were the ones who travelled the lightest.Most of us had backpacks,but some brought more of a duffle type.
I had bought a backpack(I'd never travelled with one before)and hated it from day one.It hadn't occurred to me,that its design would prove to be a real pain in the gluteus.It opened from the top,so everytime I wanted something,I practically had to dump everything out!Not fun.Of course,I had brought too much,not realizing how much I really could have gotten there.
In addition to the backpack,I had brought a small bag,my gym bag really,the rattiest old thing I have,to deliver some winter clothes I was taking to donate to the earthquake victims in Kashmir.I was able to leave that small bag in the baggage office at the Hotel Swati until my return two weeks later.At that point,I pared down to the bare essentials and transfered to my gym bag for the rest of the trip.I can't express how much happier I was!
Another thought about packing-Every hotel we used had a Dhobi-Walla(spelling?)meaning laundry guy.You can have your laundry done very cheaply.This was a terrific convenience,especially since I had pared down to just about four outfits.
Jul 13th, 2006, 05:26 AM
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Another consideration about luggage on a trip like this-you are expected to carry your own luggage occasionally.For instance,we would bring our bags to the lobby,where they would usually be transferred for us to the cars,but we would carry them to and from the train stations and a bit here and there.So you need to feel comfortable handling your own bag.
Janna G-To answer your question about hotels-Intrepid has different types of trips-Comfort trips use more expensive hotels and private drivers,a little more cushy and expensive experience,also a little less adwenture.
This was an "Original" trip,which was perfect for me.The hotels varied.Some were lovely,as I tell you about in the report as we move along,some were very basic.Sometimes when you're off the beaten path,there's not a lot of choice.And keep in mind it's India,so even at the nicer hotels,the occasional power failure(followed up by the generator kicking in,hopefully) can't be avoided.Also,for instance,we stayed at a beautful fort that was,of course,high above the little village.There water came and went,so maybe you'll get a shower,maybe not.This didn't seem to bother any of us,as the settings were so gorgeous and we felt lucky to be there.
Janna G-To answer your question about hotels-Intrepid has different types of trips-Comfort trips use more expensive hotels and private drivers,a little more cushy and expensive experience,also a little less adwenture.
This was an "Original" trip,which was perfect for me.The hotels varied.Some were lovely,as I tell you about in the report as we move along,some were very basic.Sometimes when you're off the beaten path,there's not a lot of choice.And keep in mind it's India,so even at the nicer hotels,the occasional power failure(followed up by the generator kicking in,hopefully) can't be avoided.Also,for instance,we stayed at a beautful fort that was,of course,high above the little village.There water came and went,so maybe you'll get a shower,maybe not.This didn't seem to bother any of us,as the settings were so gorgeous and we felt lucky to be there.
Jul 13th, 2006, 05:31 AM
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Also,even the most basic hotel offered beautiful gardens in which to sit and reflect on your day.Those are some of my most memorable moments,drinking a lassi or a fresh lime soda,my new favorite drink,in a garden.Bliss!
Something about meals-the price of this trip included very few meals,just a few breakfasts,which was very appealing to me.I'd real stories about people going on tours where they were dragged from one mediocre restaurant to another.That was far from the case for us,we went to some great places.Usually we ate as a group,as we really enjoyed each other's company,but occasionally we would split up.At the end of dinner,the server would come around to us individually and settle up with us.This worked out very well.
Something about meals-the price of this trip included very few meals,just a few breakfasts,which was very appealing to me.I'd real stories about people going on tours where they were dragged from one mediocre restaurant to another.That was far from the case for us,we went to some great places.Usually we ate as a group,as we really enjoyed each other's company,but occasionally we would split up.At the end of dinner,the server would come around to us individually and settle up with us.This worked out very well.
Jul 13th, 2006, 06:27 AM
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On To Agra!
We started this day early,as we had a 7 am train to catch,the mail express.Fortunately,this was not the norm.Usually we would leave our hotel at about 8a.m.,which is quite civilized.
When it gets down to it,the one image that has driven me to come to India is one of the Taj Mahal.When I was a little girl,my sister and I had a playroom that my mother had decorated with travel posters.There was one of the Colosseum,the Leaning Tower of Pisa and one of the Taj.I've seen the other two icons,but this was the last and most evocative for me.I was going to see it today!
I was itching to ride a train in India,and this was my first of many.We rode in second class-A/C chair class.There are many different classes of trains,and I rode in most of them over the month!This was a real kick for me and I was never bored.We were served a breakfast of Chai and biscuits on the short (1 1/2 hour I believe)ride.This wasn't my most scenic ride,but the first,so I was excited.When we arrived,it was the usual chaos-which in some sick way I love-and made our way to our wickram(little electric vehicles)drivers,who were waiting for us.
I have to hand it to Akriti,she had her act together.She was always on her cell,making sure things were arranged. The drivers were always ready and waiting for us.It was WONDERFUL not having to deal with those kinds of headaches.
The drive from the station to our hotel was intoxicating.This was Diwali,the Hindu festival of lights.Vendors were sitting with mountains of marigolds to sell.Everything was decorated with garlands of them.Horses,trucks,houses,everything!It was one of the best-smelling entrances into a city I've had.Agra is a crazy city,very busy and hectic.It is a Muslim city,but there are always Hindus,too.I didn't even know there were Muslim cities in India,so much to learn!
We made our way to the Hotel Sheela.This is probably the most basic hotel we used on this two-week (Classic Rajasthan) trip(There would also be some basic ones on the second part-Unforgettable India)What the Hotel Sheela lacked in 500-thread count sheets,it made up for in charm and location!location!location!It was just a few meters from the East gate to the Taj.They had a lovely verandah where we all drank delicious banana lassis.After a bit of a rest,our cycle-rickshaw drivers picked us up to take us to the Agra Fort.This was the first of several forts on this trip.They are all very beautiful and symmetrical in design.We had a private guide who gave us a lovely tour.At one point,he directed us to a lookout point,and there it was! Across the Yamuna River,the Taj Mahal,floating in the distance like a mirage.Very cool.We had been hoping to take a boat ride ,but the river was very low and it wasn't possible.
We made our way back to the vicinity of the hotel and headed to lunch.Lunch was at Maya Restaurant.I loved this place.The walls were painted a beautiful blue and the decorations were colorful.The food was yummy,and we were all so happy to be in Agra,about to see the Taj at dusk.I'm not a big beer drinker,but I became a fan of Kingfisher,which is the perfect companion to spicy Indian food.
We started this day early,as we had a 7 am train to catch,the mail express.Fortunately,this was not the norm.Usually we would leave our hotel at about 8a.m.,which is quite civilized.
When it gets down to it,the one image that has driven me to come to India is one of the Taj Mahal.When I was a little girl,my sister and I had a playroom that my mother had decorated with travel posters.There was one of the Colosseum,the Leaning Tower of Pisa and one of the Taj.I've seen the other two icons,but this was the last and most evocative for me.I was going to see it today!
I was itching to ride a train in India,and this was my first of many.We rode in second class-A/C chair class.There are many different classes of trains,and I rode in most of them over the month!This was a real kick for me and I was never bored.We were served a breakfast of Chai and biscuits on the short (1 1/2 hour I believe)ride.This wasn't my most scenic ride,but the first,so I was excited.When we arrived,it was the usual chaos-which in some sick way I love-and made our way to our wickram(little electric vehicles)drivers,who were waiting for us.
I have to hand it to Akriti,she had her act together.She was always on her cell,making sure things were arranged. The drivers were always ready and waiting for us.It was WONDERFUL not having to deal with those kinds of headaches.
The drive from the station to our hotel was intoxicating.This was Diwali,the Hindu festival of lights.Vendors were sitting with mountains of marigolds to sell.Everything was decorated with garlands of them.Horses,trucks,houses,everything!It was one of the best-smelling entrances into a city I've had.Agra is a crazy city,very busy and hectic.It is a Muslim city,but there are always Hindus,too.I didn't even know there were Muslim cities in India,so much to learn!
We made our way to the Hotel Sheela.This is probably the most basic hotel we used on this two-week (Classic Rajasthan) trip(There would also be some basic ones on the second part-Unforgettable India)What the Hotel Sheela lacked in 500-thread count sheets,it made up for in charm and location!location!location!It was just a few meters from the East gate to the Taj.They had a lovely verandah where we all drank delicious banana lassis.After a bit of a rest,our cycle-rickshaw drivers picked us up to take us to the Agra Fort.This was the first of several forts on this trip.They are all very beautiful and symmetrical in design.We had a private guide who gave us a lovely tour.At one point,he directed us to a lookout point,and there it was! Across the Yamuna River,the Taj Mahal,floating in the distance like a mirage.Very cool.We had been hoping to take a boat ride ,but the river was very low and it wasn't possible.
We made our way back to the vicinity of the hotel and headed to lunch.Lunch was at Maya Restaurant.I loved this place.The walls were painted a beautiful blue and the decorations were colorful.The food was yummy,and we were all so happy to be in Agra,about to see the Taj at dusk.I'm not a big beer drinker,but I became a fan of Kingfisher,which is the perfect companion to spicy Indian food.
Jul 13th, 2006, 04:37 PM
#30
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waynehazle-To be honest,I don't think that the Taj itself is at all commercial.Of course,there are some souvenir shops outside the gates,but it's not that bad.Most people do,of course,come to Agra to see the Taj Mahal,but in my opinion,I've seen much tackier commercialization in the U.S. and Europe.
After lunch we were taken back to the hotel in our cyclerickshaws.Probably the most humbling point of the whole trip was when we reached a very modest grade and all of the drivers made us get out of our carts and walk!Of course,our little petite leader was riding off in the distance in hers,as she wasn't the burden that we were!We all laughed about that one.
After a bit of a rest,we all gathered to walk to the Taj.As I said,it's really within spitting distance of the Hotel Sheela.We had to run the gauntlet,with people surrounding us with the chess sets,mini-Taj models,t-shirts,and general crap they thought we couldn't live without.We were given our tickets,then went through security,including a pat-down to enter the grounds.
It's funny,we all have images in mind of these iconic places,but often without the context surrounding it.I had no idea that there were beautiful red buildings and walls surrounding the Taj grounds,and beautiful flowers and gardens.There is also a mosque on the grounds adjacent to the Taj.We walked down the walk,still not seeing the building we came to see,then walked through a gate,and gulp!there it is.It really took my breath away.Not only is it beautiful and kind of surreal looking,but there is a lovely peacefulness in being there,as everyone ,Indian and Western,is sharing something so special.Since there are such large gardens around ,there is a feeling of spaciousness and not at all the crowded experience that I expected.
One of the people in our group is a photographer,and she said that we would be there for "magic hour" as the light changes before dusk.We all enjoyed watching the Taj change colors from gold to blue and even purple.Indian families were dressed in their best for their special portraits.
The vivid crimsons and saffrons contrasted gloriously with the white marble and green grass.Nothing but beauty.
After lunch we were taken back to the hotel in our cyclerickshaws.Probably the most humbling point of the whole trip was when we reached a very modest grade and all of the drivers made us get out of our carts and walk!Of course,our little petite leader was riding off in the distance in hers,as she wasn't the burden that we were!We all laughed about that one.
After a bit of a rest,we all gathered to walk to the Taj.As I said,it's really within spitting distance of the Hotel Sheela.We had to run the gauntlet,with people surrounding us with the chess sets,mini-Taj models,t-shirts,and general crap they thought we couldn't live without.We were given our tickets,then went through security,including a pat-down to enter the grounds.
It's funny,we all have images in mind of these iconic places,but often without the context surrounding it.I had no idea that there were beautiful red buildings and walls surrounding the Taj grounds,and beautiful flowers and gardens.There is also a mosque on the grounds adjacent to the Taj.We walked down the walk,still not seeing the building we came to see,then walked through a gate,and gulp!there it is.It really took my breath away.Not only is it beautiful and kind of surreal looking,but there is a lovely peacefulness in being there,as everyone ,Indian and Western,is sharing something so special.Since there are such large gardens around ,there is a feeling of spaciousness and not at all the crowded experience that I expected.
One of the people in our group is a photographer,and she said that we would be there for "magic hour" as the light changes before dusk.We all enjoyed watching the Taj change colors from gold to blue and even purple.Indian families were dressed in their best for their special portraits.
The vivid crimsons and saffrons contrasted gloriously with the white marble and green grass.Nothing but beauty.
Jul 13th, 2006, 06:59 PM
#31
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i can't wait and i hope i feel the same way about being there...some how the $17 entrance fee has already turned me off....and i want to visit twice in two different lights..oh well...i guess we have to assume that the fee goes to up keep...but $17 in india....the same person who owns the upscale hotels must own the taj...
Jul 14th, 2006, 03:44 AM
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rhkkmk - that is an outrageous comment about the entrance price. $17 - well the first time I went there I believe it was 100 rupees and the same for Indians and foreigners.
So it's changed. And in Indian terms it sounds like a lot. But the site has to be maintained, like St Pauls, or Petra, or any number of museums or galleries, or sites all over the world.
Now if you were a budget traveller spending $10 a night or less for accommodation and $3-4 for dinner, then it would be a big outlay, especially twice. But you're not are you?
Your accommodation will be where? How much will it cost you a night? And how much will you spend on your evening meal?
Do go at dawn (your driver will take you - no need to walk 5 or 6 kms) and do go at dusk.
Enjoy but don't complain about the price.
So it's changed. And in Indian terms it sounds like a lot. But the site has to be maintained, like St Pauls, or Petra, or any number of museums or galleries, or sites all over the world.
Now if you were a budget traveller spending $10 a night or less for accommodation and $3-4 for dinner, then it would be a big outlay, especially twice. But you're not are you?
Your accommodation will be where? How much will it cost you a night? And how much will you spend on your evening meal?
Do go at dawn (your driver will take you - no need to walk 5 or 6 kms) and do go at dusk.
Enjoy but don't complain about the price.
Jul 14th, 2006, 07:59 AM
#35
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Yeah I don't think the Taj is that commercialized either.
Stepping through those gates was on of the greatest experiences of my life. The thing I couldn't see from the pictures is how GIGANTIC it is.
It is definitely worth 17 dollars.
Stepping through those gates was on of the greatest experiences of my life. The thing I couldn't see from the pictures is how GIGANTIC it is.
It is definitely worth 17 dollars.
Jul 14th, 2006, 08:28 AM
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rhkkmk has a point. This is price discrimination that all non residents (including non resident Indians) face in India. I understand that the top hotels are now moving to a one-rate-for-all scheme.
