The Princess Journeys To Sri Lanka and South India
Oct 2nd, 2017, 06:44 PM
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The Princess Journeys To Sri Lanka and South India
The Indian subcontinent is indeed an alluring place: It features ladies in gorgeous saris and bangle bracelets, intricate carvings at ancient sites, cows and goats competing with cars on a busy street, and a way of life that has, in some ways, stayed the same for centuries. On this trip, I decided to visit both Sri Lanka and South India, because they are close geographically, and seemed to pair nicely. When my son and I returned from our 2009 trip to North India, our wonderful neighbor, Padmini, who is from South India, insisted that I visit her home area because, she said, "The architecture is pure Indian, and not Moghal." So I heeded her advice, and off I went.
Itinerary:
First of all, I can't thank all of you enough for your planning help. I am so fond of all of you, and appreciative. Here is a brief outline of the itinerary.
NEGOMBO, SRI LANKA - Friday, September 1 for one night
DAMBULLA, SRI LANKA - Saturday, September 2 for four nights (as base for Cultural Triangle and Minnerya elephant reserve)
NUWARA ELIYA - Wednesday, September 6 for two nights
SINHARAJA - Friday, September 8 for two nights
COCHIN - Sunday, September 10 for two nights
ALLEPPEY - Tuesday, September 12 for two nights
MADURAI - Thursday, September 14 for three nights
CHETTINAD - Sunday, September 17 for two nights
TANJORE - Tuesday, September 19 for two nights (day trip to Trichy)
TIRUVANNAMALAI - Thursday, September 21 for two nights
My peeps:
My driver, Steven (Chaminda), in Sri Lanka, was excellent, but it was very different than travelling with a formal agency. He has a degree in history, and acted as a guide as well. I truly appreciated having him with me while hiking in rainy Horton Plains, as he offered a hand on slippery rocks, and kept me from getting lost, or scared. He has a small agency, with five other drivers that he uses. He ate dinner and lunch with me everyday, which was nice, but different. He wanted to be my pal, rather than just my driver.
[email protected]
http://kulansatours.com/
One of my favorite days was spent in Cochin with tuk tuk driver Saneesh Kuku. We spent an amazing, intense five hours together, and he took me to a laundry, a spice market to watch ladies sort out ginger root, and the synagogue, where I met Sarah, the oldest member of the tiny Jewish community there. We are both Kohens, meaning that we are direct descendants of a tribe of Israel, so it was especially thrilling to meet her.
Saneesh Kuku
+91 98950 42863 (Also on What's Ap with same number)
I used Indian Panorama for my entire South Indian trip. You cannot buy their services a la carte--you must stay in their hotels, and use their car and driver. My driver was fantastic--his name is Pallini. At first, I thought the pace was too slow, so I talked to my husband, who suggested I explain that I can do more each day, and that's what I did. Looking back, it's probably important to talk right away, up front, with a driver hired via a third party, to explain your travel style. Oh, and Tim, who is the planner for Indian Panorama, has the patience of a saint, and helped me put together a trip well suited to my interests.
[email protected]
https://www.indianpanorama.in/
Sri Lanka likes:
I adored the whole area around Dambulla and Sigiriya. Both ladies and men dress traditionally, and were extra friendly. Ladies always smiled at me, and of course, I smiled back. Ritigala was a highlight, as the setting was beautiful. I am so glad I went on the short, but nice elephant safari in Minnerya. I used my binoculars, and patiently observed the interactions in the herd. I was fascinated with the bugs, plants, and elephant footprints in the Sinharaja Forest Reserve. It's actually a primary rainforest, and the government had the foresight to preserve it decades ago. We went to the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy en route to Nuwara Eliya, and I found the museum fascinating. I regret not staying overnight in order to watch the evening ceremony. The history of the tooth relic is so fascinating, and I recommend spending a good two hours in the museum at the temple.
Most importantly, I liked meeting the locals. The first day, I explained to Steven that I preferred surprises to monuments. I think I confused him, because he said, "There are no surprises in Sri Lanka." It took awhile, but he caught on that I meant spontaneously talking to locals. Shortly thereafter, we began stopping to talk to farmers and other people in front of their homes. For example, we stopped at a house where a man was building a roof made of cinnamon wood. He was a peppercorn farmer, and he showed the the drying peppercorns, and explained the process.
Sri Lanka not like so much:
Yes, I knew about the hefty admission fees for foreigners, but I did not realize that there was a charge for every tiny, minor Buddhist temple. Steven wanted me to see a unique, carved Buddha en route to Annapurna, but really, seven dollars, for one Buddha? We stopped at several other temples as well, and I could not help from being a little annoyed.
I am a really adventurous eater, having grown up in Los Angeles eating all sorts of exotic foods. However, Steven asked me at the beginning if I wanted to eat at tourist restaurants, or would I prefer to eat with the locals, but in clean restaurants? Of course I wanted to eat like a local! Well, it turns out that virtually every lunch was buffet, and boy, the spices were way too strong for me. The non-spicy foods contained a strong, bitter herb (I forgot the name). Usually, the dhal (lentil) curry was edible, but it was getting a bit monotonous after awhile. I only ate vegetarian on this trip for safety reasons.
Two sites were disappointing. Sigiriya was amazing, but the climb up was a big mess, due to huge lines. I didn't time the climb, but I know it took more than two hours because of the lines. I suggest going right when it opens at 7:30 AM. At Horton Plains, Little World's End and Big World's End were completely fogged in. However, I enjoyed the hike, nonetheless, particularly the gorgeous waterfall.. Steven is a huge Eagles fan, so we sang, "Hotel California" while he hiked.
Wow, the not like list seems longer than the like list, but I really did enjoy Sri Lanka. The people were amazing, and it's a fascinating and diverse country.
India likes:
I enjoyed the state of Kerala immensely. My favorite day was actually my first day in India, when Saneesh showed me the sites of Cochin. Afterwards, I strolled around for a couple of hours, then my driver, Pallini, picked my up at 4:30 PM to watch the make up application for the dance show. Pallini patiently waited for me, and then drove me to a vegetarian restaurant that was an hour away. The previous night, right after I arrived, we drove to another vegetarian restaurant, also an hour away. I spoke to my older son, and he said, "With all the vegetarians in South India, why did you have to drive an hour for dinner?" I think Pallini wanted me to have what he considered the best and cleanest food.
I enjoyed my two nights in Alleppey on the river. I took a public ferry, and also the hotel had nightly sunset boat rides, which I took twice. In between, I walked quite a bit, and I found the people wonderful, as there were no beggars. I actually took a five hour walk on the second day, and I met many nice people. All in all, Kerala seemed easy, breezy, and that part of the trip was over way too soon.
Tamil Nadu was fascinating, and my favorite part was the two walking tours arranged by Indian Panorama. Kartek, who works in the local Madurai office, took me on a sunset food safari, and a sunrise walking tour. The tours were more fascinating than visiting any monument, and I wish that I could have had similar experiences in other cities. Kartek was so fascinating in his presentation, by explaining that certain foods are good for the pancreas. Pancreas, really?
At my older son's suggestion, I sat in the front with Pallini so that I could get a better view. Driving in India is like a surreal video game--there are cars, walking cattle, trucks carrying cattle, ox carts, and motorcycles. While in Madurai, where traffic is heavy, I asked Pallini if the same drivers were going in circles just for amusement. I don't think he got my humor. It's quite a fascinating experience watching who and what is on the road with you, and I recommend sitting in the front, no extra charge.
India not like so much:
I enjoyed the temples in Tamil Nadu, but I thought they got a wee bit monotonous after a awhile. Non-Hindus are not allowed in the inner sanctuaries, so tourists are confined to simply look at the architecture. Looking back, I would have preferred to spend a bit more time in Kerala, and a little less in Tamil Nadu.
Oh, and did I mention the schmutz and the begging? I do find India fascinating, but it is not the cleanest place I have ever been. I did not encounter any beggars in Kerala, but they were everywhere in Tamil Nadu. All the young guys wanted to take selfies with me--I mentioned this to my younger son, and he told me to start charging a fee. Maybe I could have paid for my trip that way.
In summary, I would call it a great trip.
Itinerary:
First of all, I can't thank all of you enough for your planning help. I am so fond of all of you, and appreciative. Here is a brief outline of the itinerary.
NEGOMBO, SRI LANKA - Friday, September 1 for one night
DAMBULLA, SRI LANKA - Saturday, September 2 for four nights (as base for Cultural Triangle and Minnerya elephant reserve)
NUWARA ELIYA - Wednesday, September 6 for two nights
SINHARAJA - Friday, September 8 for two nights
COCHIN - Sunday, September 10 for two nights
ALLEPPEY - Tuesday, September 12 for two nights
MADURAI - Thursday, September 14 for three nights
CHETTINAD - Sunday, September 17 for two nights
TANJORE - Tuesday, September 19 for two nights (day trip to Trichy)
TIRUVANNAMALAI - Thursday, September 21 for two nights
My peeps:
My driver, Steven (Chaminda), in Sri Lanka, was excellent, but it was very different than travelling with a formal agency. He has a degree in history, and acted as a guide as well. I truly appreciated having him with me while hiking in rainy Horton Plains, as he offered a hand on slippery rocks, and kept me from getting lost, or scared. He has a small agency, with five other drivers that he uses. He ate dinner and lunch with me everyday, which was nice, but different. He wanted to be my pal, rather than just my driver.
[email protected]
http://kulansatours.com/
One of my favorite days was spent in Cochin with tuk tuk driver Saneesh Kuku. We spent an amazing, intense five hours together, and he took me to a laundry, a spice market to watch ladies sort out ginger root, and the synagogue, where I met Sarah, the oldest member of the tiny Jewish community there. We are both Kohens, meaning that we are direct descendants of a tribe of Israel, so it was especially thrilling to meet her.
Saneesh Kuku
+91 98950 42863 (Also on What's Ap with same number)
I used Indian Panorama for my entire South Indian trip. You cannot buy their services a la carte--you must stay in their hotels, and use their car and driver. My driver was fantastic--his name is Pallini. At first, I thought the pace was too slow, so I talked to my husband, who suggested I explain that I can do more each day, and that's what I did. Looking back, it's probably important to talk right away, up front, with a driver hired via a third party, to explain your travel style. Oh, and Tim, who is the planner for Indian Panorama, has the patience of a saint, and helped me put together a trip well suited to my interests.
[email protected]
https://www.indianpanorama.in/
Sri Lanka likes:
I adored the whole area around Dambulla and Sigiriya. Both ladies and men dress traditionally, and were extra friendly. Ladies always smiled at me, and of course, I smiled back. Ritigala was a highlight, as the setting was beautiful. I am so glad I went on the short, but nice elephant safari in Minnerya. I used my binoculars, and patiently observed the interactions in the herd. I was fascinated with the bugs, plants, and elephant footprints in the Sinharaja Forest Reserve. It's actually a primary rainforest, and the government had the foresight to preserve it decades ago. We went to the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy en route to Nuwara Eliya, and I found the museum fascinating. I regret not staying overnight in order to watch the evening ceremony. The history of the tooth relic is so fascinating, and I recommend spending a good two hours in the museum at the temple.
Most importantly, I liked meeting the locals. The first day, I explained to Steven that I preferred surprises to monuments. I think I confused him, because he said, "There are no surprises in Sri Lanka." It took awhile, but he caught on that I meant spontaneously talking to locals. Shortly thereafter, we began stopping to talk to farmers and other people in front of their homes. For example, we stopped at a house where a man was building a roof made of cinnamon wood. He was a peppercorn farmer, and he showed the the drying peppercorns, and explained the process.
Sri Lanka not like so much:
Yes, I knew about the hefty admission fees for foreigners, but I did not realize that there was a charge for every tiny, minor Buddhist temple. Steven wanted me to see a unique, carved Buddha en route to Annapurna, but really, seven dollars, for one Buddha? We stopped at several other temples as well, and I could not help from being a little annoyed.
I am a really adventurous eater, having grown up in Los Angeles eating all sorts of exotic foods. However, Steven asked me at the beginning if I wanted to eat at tourist restaurants, or would I prefer to eat with the locals, but in clean restaurants? Of course I wanted to eat like a local! Well, it turns out that virtually every lunch was buffet, and boy, the spices were way too strong for me. The non-spicy foods contained a strong, bitter herb (I forgot the name). Usually, the dhal (lentil) curry was edible, but it was getting a bit monotonous after awhile. I only ate vegetarian on this trip for safety reasons.
Two sites were disappointing. Sigiriya was amazing, but the climb up was a big mess, due to huge lines. I didn't time the climb, but I know it took more than two hours because of the lines. I suggest going right when it opens at 7:30 AM. At Horton Plains, Little World's End and Big World's End were completely fogged in. However, I enjoyed the hike, nonetheless, particularly the gorgeous waterfall.. Steven is a huge Eagles fan, so we sang, "Hotel California" while he hiked.
Wow, the not like list seems longer than the like list, but I really did enjoy Sri Lanka. The people were amazing, and it's a fascinating and diverse country.
India likes:
I enjoyed the state of Kerala immensely. My favorite day was actually my first day in India, when Saneesh showed me the sites of Cochin. Afterwards, I strolled around for a couple of hours, then my driver, Pallini, picked my up at 4:30 PM to watch the make up application for the dance show. Pallini patiently waited for me, and then drove me to a vegetarian restaurant that was an hour away. The previous night, right after I arrived, we drove to another vegetarian restaurant, also an hour away. I spoke to my older son, and he said, "With all the vegetarians in South India, why did you have to drive an hour for dinner?" I think Pallini wanted me to have what he considered the best and cleanest food.
I enjoyed my two nights in Alleppey on the river. I took a public ferry, and also the hotel had nightly sunset boat rides, which I took twice. In between, I walked quite a bit, and I found the people wonderful, as there were no beggars. I actually took a five hour walk on the second day, and I met many nice people. All in all, Kerala seemed easy, breezy, and that part of the trip was over way too soon.
Tamil Nadu was fascinating, and my favorite part was the two walking tours arranged by Indian Panorama. Kartek, who works in the local Madurai office, took me on a sunset food safari, and a sunrise walking tour. The tours were more fascinating than visiting any monument, and I wish that I could have had similar experiences in other cities. Kartek was so fascinating in his presentation, by explaining that certain foods are good for the pancreas. Pancreas, really?
At my older son's suggestion, I sat in the front with Pallini so that I could get a better view. Driving in India is like a surreal video game--there are cars, walking cattle, trucks carrying cattle, ox carts, and motorcycles. While in Madurai, where traffic is heavy, I asked Pallini if the same drivers were going in circles just for amusement. I don't think he got my humor. It's quite a fascinating experience watching who and what is on the road with you, and I recommend sitting in the front, no extra charge.
India not like so much:
I enjoyed the temples in Tamil Nadu, but I thought they got a wee bit monotonous after a awhile. Non-Hindus are not allowed in the inner sanctuaries, so tourists are confined to simply look at the architecture. Looking back, I would have preferred to spend a bit more time in Kerala, and a little less in Tamil Nadu.
Oh, and did I mention the schmutz and the begging? I do find India fascinating, but it is not the cleanest place I have ever been. I did not encounter any beggars in Kerala, but they were everywhere in Tamil Nadu. All the young guys wanted to take selfies with me--I mentioned this to my younger son, and he told me to start charging a fee. Maybe I could have paid for my trip that way.
In summary, I would call it a great trip.
Oct 2nd, 2017, 07:22 PM
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Fantastic, I've been so looking forward to this. Glad you enjoyed your time in both countries.
I'm going to look up your driver in Sri Lanka and start kicking myself for choosing another guy (kidding, I hope, fingers crossed n'all).
We're so looking forward to the food coz we like spicy, would the herb have been fenugreek (methi) ?
The tours with Karktik were such a font of information for us, unfortunately as we were leaving Tamil Nadu not arriving like you. Well done on that, and your trip overall.
Thanks for sharing.
Ten days til Sri Lanka (not counting).
I'm going to look up your driver in Sri Lanka and start kicking myself for choosing another guy (kidding, I hope, fingers crossed n'all).
We're so looking forward to the food coz we like spicy, would the herb have been fenugreek (methi) ?
The tours with Karktik were such a font of information for us, unfortunately as we were leaving Tamil Nadu not arriving like you. Well done on that, and your trip overall.
Thanks for sharing.
Ten days til Sri Lanka (not counting).
Oct 2nd, 2017, 08:15 PM
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Thanks for the praise, sartoric. I forced myself to put the report up on a timely basis because you had threatened me with sanctions (kidding). Actually, I knew you were leaving soon, so I thought of you.
Regarding drivers, I believe you are traveling with Camlolanka Tours? If so, I remember susiesan was a fan of their driver, and actually, I did try to book with them, but I was not getting responses. I would leave well enough alone. Traveling with Steven was sometimes a challenge--I felt obligated to share the almonds I brought from home, and he asked a fair amount of questions about US politics, etc. So it was not necessarily better, just different.
I can't remember the name of that bitter herb. I suppose I could write Steven and ask. He explained that young children hate it, but they develop a taste for it later in life. I thought to myself, "Why would they want to?"
I challenge you on the spicy food. It's really strong, much stronger than India. If you take the challenge, you are going to have to eat at local restaurants, and not at tourist places. Report back, if your mouth is not on fire.
I wish you a safe and pleasurable journey, and get to Sigiraya at 7:30 AM, not matter what your driver tells you. We were at a standstill for hours going up.
Regarding drivers, I believe you are traveling with Camlolanka Tours? If so, I remember susiesan was a fan of their driver, and actually, I did try to book with them, but I was not getting responses. I would leave well enough alone. Traveling with Steven was sometimes a challenge--I felt obligated to share the almonds I brought from home, and he asked a fair amount of questions about US politics, etc. So it was not necessarily better, just different.
I can't remember the name of that bitter herb. I suppose I could write Steven and ask. He explained that young children hate it, but they develop a taste for it later in life. I thought to myself, "Why would they want to?"
I challenge you on the spicy food. It's really strong, much stronger than India. If you take the challenge, you are going to have to eat at local restaurants, and not at tourist places. Report back, if your mouth is not on fire.
I wish you a safe and pleasurable journey, and get to Sigiraya at 7:30 AM, not matter what your driver tells you. We were at a standstill for hours going up.
Oct 2nd, 2017, 08:44 PM
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Hi, California Lady! Like Sartoric, I've been looking forward to this! It was worth the wait: well-written, succinct, and funny. The Princess and The Schmutz!!
Intrigued by a possible trip to SL, I'm going to ask a difficult (maybe even stupid) question. IF you had to choose just one area to visit --SL or Southern India--which would it be, given your experiences?
Never ceases to amaze how different are people's likes and dislikes. Remember our fellow Fodorite (Dgunbug, are you there?) who loved the TN temples but thought Cochin and the backwaters were boring? I guess in the end, we don't know 'til we live it!
I love Cochin, could return over and over--twice isn't enough. Great that Saneesh introduced you to Sarah!! She's not always in her shop--you were lucky!! Isn't she beautiful? Did you see the old B&W wedding photo on the wall of her shop? I totally "get" why your day with Saneesh was a highlight!
A minor correction, for possible future reference and those who may use Indianpanorama: "you must stay in their hotels." I.m.e., not so. On all trips planned/booked with them, and those of friends who've used their services, I know you can stay where you like. IP can and will book anywhere. However, Tim will explain in detail why a particular lodging may or may not be a good idea.(One example: a place I fancied in Cochin, which looked great, he knew what pix don't show--it reeks of mildew!) I've never felt pressured to go with a particular hotel, although times I did not take IP's suggestions, I regretted it. It's ultimately up to the client. Also, for hotels that both they company and me agreed on, they have gotten better prices than what I found by researching myself.
A huge thank you for your report, with your skill at putting two weeks of travel into a succinct but descriptive summary! How wonderful that you had a great trip! Enjoy the post-trip r and r as you emotionally digest it all!!
Intrigued by a possible trip to SL, I'm going to ask a difficult (maybe even stupid) question. IF you had to choose just one area to visit --SL or Southern India--which would it be, given your experiences?
Never ceases to amaze how different are people's likes and dislikes. Remember our fellow Fodorite (Dgunbug, are you there?) who loved the TN temples but thought Cochin and the backwaters were boring? I guess in the end, we don't know 'til we live it!
I love Cochin, could return over and over--twice isn't enough. Great that Saneesh introduced you to Sarah!! She's not always in her shop--you were lucky!! Isn't she beautiful? Did you see the old B&W wedding photo on the wall of her shop? I totally "get" why your day with Saneesh was a highlight!
A minor correction, for possible future reference and those who may use Indianpanorama: "you must stay in their hotels." I.m.e., not so. On all trips planned/booked with them, and those of friends who've used their services, I know you can stay where you like. IP can and will book anywhere. However, Tim will explain in detail why a particular lodging may or may not be a good idea.(One example: a place I fancied in Cochin, which looked great, he knew what pix don't show--it reeks of mildew!) I've never felt pressured to go with a particular hotel, although times I did not take IP's suggestions, I regretted it. It's ultimately up to the client. Also, for hotels that both they company and me agreed on, they have gotten better prices than what I found by researching myself.
A huge thank you for your report, with your skill at putting two weeks of travel into a succinct but descriptive summary! How wonderful that you had a great trip! Enjoy the post-trip r and r as you emotionally digest it all!!
Oct 2nd, 2017, 09:06 PM
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You're so funny, CaliNurse. Shall I ask the editors to change my title? I like yours better.
To answer your question about which country I would choose to visit, I suppose I would choose Sri Lanka over India, mostly because I have been to India before, so it was not as intriguing as it was the first time. Kerala, however, was quite different than the rest of India, so I would give that part of the trip high marks, perhaps the highest of all.
In regards to Indian Panorama and hotels, I may have confused you. I meant that Tim will not allow you to use their drivers, and not book hotels directly with them. It all comes as a package. I typically book hotels on my own, so it was difficult giving up control In Sri Lanka, I did indeed book all my hotels directly.
That's an interesting perspective you presented about people's likes and dislikes. I told Tim, after I returned, that I wish I had spent more time in Kerala, and less in Tamil Nadu. He explained that he considers Kerala more touristed, and he thought I would enjoy the culture in Tamil Nadu. Sometimes, I just like to torture myself about my itinerary, which is one of the drawbacks of traveling alone. No one to blame but myself.
To answer your question about which country I would choose to visit, I suppose I would choose Sri Lanka over India, mostly because I have been to India before, so it was not as intriguing as it was the first time. Kerala, however, was quite different than the rest of India, so I would give that part of the trip high marks, perhaps the highest of all.
In regards to Indian Panorama and hotels, I may have confused you. I meant that Tim will not allow you to use their drivers, and not book hotels directly with them. It all comes as a package. I typically book hotels on my own, so it was difficult giving up control In Sri Lanka, I did indeed book all my hotels directly.
That's an interesting perspective you presented about people's likes and dislikes. I told Tim, after I returned, that I wish I had spent more time in Kerala, and less in Tamil Nadu. He explained that he considers Kerala more touristed, and he thought I would enjoy the culture in Tamil Nadu. Sometimes, I just like to torture myself about my itinerary, which is one of the drawbacks of traveling alone. No one to blame but myself.
Oct 2nd, 2017, 10:31 PM
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Great report CaliLady, have thoroughly enjoyed reading it.
Surprised by your experience with the food. I found the exact opposite. It was a struggle to find the spicy food l love and was forever asking for extra chilli.
Could the herb you are thinking of be screwpine? I think it is a type of pandanus leaf that is used a lot in SL cooking.
Surprised by your experience with the food. I found the exact opposite. It was a struggle to find the spicy food l love and was forever asking for extra chilli.
Could the herb you are thinking of be screwpine? I think it is a type of pandanus leaf that is used a lot in SL cooking.
Oct 3rd, 2017, 12:42 AM
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Challenge accepted, will report in due course assuming the burn won't extend to my fingers.
Camlolanka tours were quite responsive with me, but I decided to go with a one man band found via a website mentioned on Thorntree forum. The thing that sold me on this guy was another customers report of all the hole in the wall eateries he took them to. He's only booked for seven of our fifteen days, plan is to wing it after that. We'll see how it all goes soon enough.
Can I ask how Dambulla Rock Arch hotel was ? I have a cancellable booking there.
I think we'll be seeing Sigiriya from nearby Pidurangala. We'll miss the crowds, hornets and the murals...there's always a trade off.
How did you find the weather ? Did you get much rain in SL ?
Love your description of driving in India, and great idea to grab the front seat. Guess it would be rude to leave my husband alone in the back....
Thanks again !
Camlolanka tours were quite responsive with me, but I decided to go with a one man band found via a website mentioned on Thorntree forum. The thing that sold me on this guy was another customers report of all the hole in the wall eateries he took them to. He's only booked for seven of our fifteen days, plan is to wing it after that. We'll see how it all goes soon enough.
Can I ask how Dambulla Rock Arch hotel was ? I have a cancellable booking there.
I think we'll be seeing Sigiriya from nearby Pidurangala. We'll miss the crowds, hornets and the murals...there's always a trade off.
How did you find the weather ? Did you get much rain in SL ?
Love your description of driving in India, and great idea to grab the front seat. Guess it would be rude to leave my husband alone in the back....
Thanks again !
Oct 3rd, 2017, 04:03 AM
#8
I'm thrilled to finally read your report - I'm at work now so won't respond in depth - but am thoroughly enjoying your brief and amusing descriptions of your travels!
I'm planning a post-retirement trip to So.India and Sri Lanka (1 year, 2 months, 4 weeks to retirement, but who's counting?!), so your report is extremely helpful.
As you may remember, I had already sketched out a 2+-week trip to So. India with Tim and India Panorama which we had to cancel, but just to reiterate CaliNurse's comments, the choice of hotels were mine. While IP may have hotels that they use and recommend (like any agency), I was not locked into any hotel. Having made my own reservations directly in the past, I'm more than happy to have an agent coordinate my trip! It saves a lot of the time and hassle, and generally, IME, the agent can get a better price or class of room than I can.
One question - having traveled to both Sri Lanka and So. India together, do you think the order you traveled in was right or would you have preferred to travel in India first? I'm planning a trip for January/February 2019, so hopefully, the weather won't be too too hot or too rainy.
I'm planning a post-retirement trip to So.India and Sri Lanka (1 year, 2 months, 4 weeks to retirement, but who's counting?!), so your report is extremely helpful.
As you may remember, I had already sketched out a 2+-week trip to So. India with Tim and India Panorama which we had to cancel, but just to reiterate CaliNurse's comments, the choice of hotels were mine. While IP may have hotels that they use and recommend (like any agency), I was not locked into any hotel. Having made my own reservations directly in the past, I'm more than happy to have an agent coordinate my trip! It saves a lot of the time and hassle, and generally, IME, the agent can get a better price or class of room than I can.
One question - having traveled to both Sri Lanka and So. India together, do you think the order you traveled in was right or would you have preferred to travel in India first? I'm planning a trip for January/February 2019, so hopefully, the weather won't be too too hot or too rainy.
Oct 3rd, 2017, 04:14 AM
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Nice TR. I like the idea of having a guide who is really like a private history teacher. This is what we experienced with our private guides when in Israel. Costly yes but the experience was priceless IMHO.
Your experience in Cochin is my kind of travel. I would have loved that. When we were in Barbados our driver took us to his home to meet his mom and to his sisters restaurant/bar. Lots of good times.
Its too bad about being nickled and dimed over there. We have experienced this in the north too. There is a supposed holy place near my wife home town of Ajmer called Pushkar but seemed like a den of thieves to me. Very bad experiences there.
You mentioned about not seeing beggars in Kerala. How cleanly was it?
Thank you!
Your experience in Cochin is my kind of travel. I would have loved that. When we were in Barbados our driver took us to his home to meet his mom and to his sisters restaurant/bar. Lots of good times.
Its too bad about being nickled and dimed over there. We have experienced this in the north too. There is a supposed holy place near my wife home town of Ajmer called Pushkar but seemed like a den of thieves to me. Very bad experiences there.
You mentioned about not seeing beggars in Kerala. How cleanly was it?
Thank you!
Oct 3rd, 2017, 04:36 AM
#10
Been looking forward to this, thanks. Like crellston, I didn't find the food especially hot, but maybe we weren't eating in sufficiently "local" places. I also didn't experience a long line at Sigiriya, but it was 2011 and I have the impression tourism has really picked up since then.
So, India lite, or not?
progol - I went from S. India to S.L. and appreciated the rest, but I was in the middle of a long trip. If you are just doing India and S.L. may be better to start slow.
So, India lite, or not?
progol - I went from S. India to S.L. and appreciated the rest, but I was in the middle of a long trip. If you are just doing India and S.L. may be better to start slow.
Oct 3rd, 2017, 04:54 AM
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crellston - Thank you for the kind words. However, I now have a complex about handling the spicy foods, lol. Growing up, my parents took us to all sorts of exotic, ethnic restaurants, even before it was fashionable, so I thought I had a sophisticated palate. The restaurants where we went for lunch were buffet, with maybe six dishes available in clay pots, with covers, but with flies swarming around. Instead of napkins, there were cut up pieces of newspaper, and if I read Sinhalese, I could have entertained myself reading my napkin. Oh, and did I mention that nobody used utensils, except princess me?
sartoric - The weather was lousy. We got more than our fair share of rain, but I never allow it to stop me. Take along one of those $2 ponchos, it will come in handy. On the other days, it was so very hot. At the religious sites, you are not allowed to wear a hat or carry a parasol. Oh, and take along some old socks for the temples, and put them in a zip lock bag in your purse. It will save your feet from getting burnt at the temples.
I found the Dambulla Rock Arch to be a gem of a little hotel. Just make sure you are booked in one of the villa rooms, and not the small room they have in the main house. The owners are a senior couple with four grown children, and they are very nice. The Mrs. insisted on doing my laundry three times. Also, it was nice being a block off the main street. If you head to the main street from the hotel, and make a left, there is a bakery/restaurant just past the bank where I ate dinner.
progol - I set the order of Sri Lanka, then South India based on the Cathay flights. I typically try to minimize the time in Hong Kong, and I try to leave home early in the morning, and return at a decent hour, so that I don't inconvenience my husband the chauffeur. All things being equal, I would probably visit Sri Lanka first, the reason being that the hiking I did was a bit tiring, and I prefer doing that while I am fresh.
jacketwatch - Cochin was not necessarily clean--I am still bothered by watching Indians throw their food wrappers on the ground. At the Cochin fish market, I noticed that some, but not all of the vendors were using ice. I'm not sure about the economics of the state of Kerala, but maybe people are better off there than Tamil Nadu, or maybe it's cultural not to beg? On my five hour walk on Alleppey, not a single person asked me for money. In fact, I visited a local school there, and I did not get solicited. In Tamil Nadu, I had to make a bee line for the car almost everywhere, and when I looked up, there was always someone looking at me with a sad face and a hand out. Maybe it's my pink umbrella and my Ray Bans.
sartoric - The weather was lousy. We got more than our fair share of rain, but I never allow it to stop me. Take along one of those $2 ponchos, it will come in handy. On the other days, it was so very hot. At the religious sites, you are not allowed to wear a hat or carry a parasol. Oh, and take along some old socks for the temples, and put them in a zip lock bag in your purse. It will save your feet from getting burnt at the temples.
I found the Dambulla Rock Arch to be a gem of a little hotel. Just make sure you are booked in one of the villa rooms, and not the small room they have in the main house. The owners are a senior couple with four grown children, and they are very nice. The Mrs. insisted on doing my laundry three times. Also, it was nice being a block off the main street. If you head to the main street from the hotel, and make a left, there is a bakery/restaurant just past the bank where I ate dinner.
progol - I set the order of Sri Lanka, then South India based on the Cathay flights. I typically try to minimize the time in Hong Kong, and I try to leave home early in the morning, and return at a decent hour, so that I don't inconvenience my husband the chauffeur. All things being equal, I would probably visit Sri Lanka first, the reason being that the hiking I did was a bit tiring, and I prefer doing that while I am fresh.
jacketwatch - Cochin was not necessarily clean--I am still bothered by watching Indians throw their food wrappers on the ground. At the Cochin fish market, I noticed that some, but not all of the vendors were using ice. I'm not sure about the economics of the state of Kerala, but maybe people are better off there than Tamil Nadu, or maybe it's cultural not to beg? On my five hour walk on Alleppey, not a single person asked me for money. In fact, I visited a local school there, and I did not get solicited. In Tamil Nadu, I had to make a bee line for the car almost everywhere, and when I looked up, there was always someone looking at me with a sad face and a hand out. Maybe it's my pink umbrella and my Ray Bans.
Oct 3rd, 2017, 05:01 AM
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Hi thursdays, I guess we were posting at the same time. I hope you are feeling better and that you will continue to travel forever and ever.
Another person that thought the food was not spicy? My only thought was that Steven was trying to get even with me for being a whiny princess. Really, it's not that I couldn't eat the food, I just thought that the spices were so overwhelming that I could not taste it.
I would not describe Sri Lanka as India lite. I found it to be quite different than India. Perhaps Sri Lanka is cleaner than India, and I only encountered a few beggars. However, the culture is quite different--Sri Lanka is Buddhist and Catholic, whereas the parts of India I visited were Catholic and Hindi. Although there are a fair amount of Tamils in Sri Lanka, the culture seems very different to me.
Another person that thought the food was not spicy? My only thought was that Steven was trying to get even with me for being a whiny princess. Really, it's not that I couldn't eat the food, I just thought that the spices were so overwhelming that I could not taste it.
I would not describe Sri Lanka as India lite. I found it to be quite different than India. Perhaps Sri Lanka is cleaner than India, and I only encountered a few beggars. However, the culture is quite different--Sri Lanka is Buddhist and Catholic, whereas the parts of India I visited were Catholic and Hindi. Although there are a fair amount of Tamils in Sri Lanka, the culture seems very different to me.
Oct 3rd, 2017, 05:35 AM
#13
Thanks, CL. I hope we are finally closing in on a diagnosis. Otherwise I may be stuck taking prescription meds without knowing the real cause. Meanwhile, no travel, unless you count a painful weekend in DC for my Global Entry interview. I did discover that having a wheelchair for the airport got me to the front of the queues without the need for TSA Pre.
I thought that Kerala was indeed better off than much of India. The majority party is often Communist (the Left Democratic Front). Wikipedia says 'Some describe Kerala's economy as a "democratic socialist welfare state"' which might well reduce the need for begging.
I did think S.L. was cleaner than India, and so much quieter! But certainly Buddhist.
I thought that Kerala was indeed better off than much of India. The majority party is often Communist (the Left Democratic Front). Wikipedia says 'Some describe Kerala's economy as a "democratic socialist welfare state"' which might well reduce the need for begging.
I did think S.L. was cleaner than India, and so much quieter! But certainly Buddhist.
Oct 3rd, 2017, 06:07 AM
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I saw a documentary one about the state of Kerala which noted that people native to this area seem to think of themselves as more from this area and identify with being from Kerala and not necessarily from India and that their average education level is I believe very high. I do know that The vast majority of Indian registered nurses that I worked with were from Kerala. They do seem to have a sense of pride about being from here and I think it’s sort of like people are very proud of being from Texas in this country.
I am not sure if this is why you see if you see few beggars there but I do get the sense that people from the state are very proud of themselves.
I am not sure if this is why you see if you see few beggars there but I do get the sense that people from the state are very proud of themselves.
Oct 3rd, 2017, 09:08 AM
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Wow! Those really were "local" restaurants. Apart from the street food, which I love, but didn’t go anywhere near because of the hygiene issues, I found the standards reasonable. One of the better places we ate at was the buffet restaurant in the bus station in Dambulla which had good spicy food which was actually hot (as in temperature) a novelty experience for us on that trip. Apparently our guide was being overly protective, for which, based on your experience, I am now grateful 
Oct 3rd, 2017, 03:04 PM
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Joining the party too; thanks for sharing. Your impressions of Sri Lanka mirrored mine considerably. I visited Sigiriya first thing in the morning and encountered crowds there too, although it was manageable. Haven't been to India yet; someday...
Oct 3rd, 2017, 03:36 PM
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Another question from your fellow California female...
Chettinad is on your itinerary. It's a place I'd probably include on a trip to the southern part of TN. My impression is it's relatively quiet, unique, and off the beaten track in terms of major tourism.
Your thoughts/impressions? Worth the detour? Did you get "hassled" there?
Chettinad is on your itinerary. It's a place I'd probably include on a trip to the southern part of TN. My impression is it's relatively quiet, unique, and off the beaten track in terms of major tourism.
Your thoughts/impressions? Worth the detour? Did you get "hassled" there?
Oct 3rd, 2017, 03:41 PM
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thursdays - Here's to a quick recovery for you. When you have the strength, you must post about Okinawa, either here or on your blog. I'm dying to know how you liked it. So Kerala is socialist? It sounds like California--interesting that it's on the West (left) coast as well. Well, I will grant you that Sri Lanka is somewhat cleaner and quieter than India, but it's still the third world. There is something intriguing about Sri Lanka that I can't quite describe--maybe it's the large amount of nature for a relatively small island.
jacketwatch - That's interesting information about Kerala that you presented. Alleppey has a huge engineering college that I found during my long walk, and I talked to a couple of students. Each Indian state almost seem like different countries, especially with the different languages and cultures.
crellston - Ah, so I didn't wimp out on spicy foods. During my stay at a Sinharaja hotel, they provided me lunch for my day hike. I noticed that the dahl and other foods tasted quite bland, and was in stark contrast to the meals that I ate with Steven. I forgot to thank you for recommending Ritigala--it was indeed a beautiful site, probably the best in the area.
triplanner001 - You're welcome, to be sure. I too visited Sigiriya in the morning, but I believe we got there about 9 AM. I spent a fair amount of time in the museum before hiking. I remember now that there was some sort of Full Moon Festival, which may have accounted for all the locals coming out in droves.
A few additional notes:
The museums at Anradhapura and Polonnaruwa were fascinating. Apparently, people would put jewelry in such in to vessels for burials, and they were able to recover some of the loot, and put it on display. I enjoyed looking at all the jewelry. When I have traveled with my older son, he bypasses stuff like that, I think because he thinks it's too girly, so I took my time looking.
I only ate at "Pure Veg" restaurants in India. Pallini suggested that I enjoy a thali for lunch each day, which is basically a series of small dishes and a bucket full of rice. I have eaten thalis before, but this was quite an experience in India, where they readily refill any dish that you want. Many of the restaurants use palm leaves instead of plates, so, as it was explained to me, when you are done, they roll up your leftovers and toss them to the goats.
I wanted to recommend my Negombo little hotel. It is call Villa Kapuru, and Dennis, the British owner, is a great guy. The rooms are simple, but quite nice, and they are in the process of renovating the bathrooms. The breakfast was quite good, and I was ready to forget about going to Dambulla, and stay awhile.
We visited Ella just for the day. I thought the area was beautiful, and wished we had time to hike Little Adam's peak. The town itself it strictly a tourist town, so it does not have a local flavor. More backpackers than locals.
jacketwatch - That's interesting information about Kerala that you presented. Alleppey has a huge engineering college that I found during my long walk, and I talked to a couple of students. Each Indian state almost seem like different countries, especially with the different languages and cultures.
crellston - Ah, so I didn't wimp out on spicy foods. During my stay at a Sinharaja hotel, they provided me lunch for my day hike. I noticed that the dahl and other foods tasted quite bland, and was in stark contrast to the meals that I ate with Steven. I forgot to thank you for recommending Ritigala--it was indeed a beautiful site, probably the best in the area.
triplanner001 - You're welcome, to be sure. I too visited Sigiriya in the morning, but I believe we got there about 9 AM. I spent a fair amount of time in the museum before hiking. I remember now that there was some sort of Full Moon Festival, which may have accounted for all the locals coming out in droves.
A few additional notes:
The museums at Anradhapura and Polonnaruwa were fascinating. Apparently, people would put jewelry in such in to vessels for burials, and they were able to recover some of the loot, and put it on display. I enjoyed looking at all the jewelry. When I have traveled with my older son, he bypasses stuff like that, I think because he thinks it's too girly, so I took my time looking.
I only ate at "Pure Veg" restaurants in India. Pallini suggested that I enjoy a thali for lunch each day, which is basically a series of small dishes and a bucket full of rice. I have eaten thalis before, but this was quite an experience in India, where they readily refill any dish that you want. Many of the restaurants use palm leaves instead of plates, so, as it was explained to me, when you are done, they roll up your leftovers and toss them to the goats.
I wanted to recommend my Negombo little hotel. It is call Villa Kapuru, and Dennis, the British owner, is a great guy. The rooms are simple, but quite nice, and they are in the process of renovating the bathrooms. The breakfast was quite good, and I was ready to forget about going to Dambulla, and stay awhile.
We visited Ella just for the day. I thought the area was beautiful, and wished we had time to hike Little Adam's peak. The town itself it strictly a tourist town, so it does not have a local flavor. More backpackers than locals.
Oct 3rd, 2017, 03:51 PM
#19
@CL - alas, I think this is chronic, not acute. At this point I'm just hoping for better pain management, even though I hate taking medication long term. I ddn't make it to Okinawa (again!), only as far as Nagasaki.
The palm leaves are biodegradable, of course. It has occurred to me that maybe India's horrible trash problem is partly due to the fact that all garbage used to be biodegradable. Or at least the cows would eat it.
@CN - I, too, visited Chettinad and definitely thought it was worth it. Another "different" piece of India.
The palm leaves are biodegradable, of course. It has occurred to me that maybe India's horrible trash problem is partly due to the fact that all garbage used to be biodegradable. Or at least the cows would eat it.
@CN - I, too, visited Chettinad and definitely thought it was worth it. Another "different" piece of India.
Oct 3rd, 2017, 05:32 PM
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CaliNurse - I see we were posting at the same time, so I will reply now. Yes, Chettinad was quite different than the other areas in Tamil Nadu that I visited. We were lucky enough to arrive on a Sunday, so Pallani stopped at the weekly market and told me to take my time browsing around. The vegetables were amazing. Tomatoes seemed to be the most popular item, and when I asked Pallani why they are so popular, he said that they go into most of the curries. The mansions in the area, which were built about a century ago, are mostly deteriorating, at least on the outside. There is only one that is open to the public, for a fee, and of course, there is one that is a hotel. I thought that they were moderately interesting. Just outside of Chettinad, Pallini took me to a science museum, because he knew of my interest. It had all sorts of birds, sea shells, and even a 3D animated dinosaur. I walked around the town quite a bit, and not a single person hassled me. So yes, I think you would enjoy a visit there. The cuisine there is quite famous, but it is not vegetarian, so I was unable to partake.
thursdays - Good point about the garbage. I guess the cows don't want to eat plastic. It seems so ingrained in the Indian culture to throw trash down--I can't remember seeing many trash cans. BTW, I thought of you when I saw elephants at several Tamil Nadu temples--it was so sad. They were chained up, and people would walk up put money in the trunk, and then the elephant would touch the person's head, as if giving them a blessing, and then the owner would take the money. I told my older son about it, and he said, "Where is PETA when you need it?"
I forgot to mention a new food that I tried in Sri Lanka. Dennis, the owner of my Negombo hotel, served me "Water Buffalo Curd" with honey drizzled on the top. Well, this stuff is better than yogurt. I ate in again for breakfast at my Sinharaja hotel. I'm going to see if it exists here.
Also, for dinner in Dambulla, I had Kottu Roti, which is basically vegetables chopped up with bread. It's a bit starchy, but the taste is quite good. It was not spicy at all--I think the curries are the most spicy dishes. Steven convinced me try a hopper, which is a bready shell similar to a crepe, and it typically has an egg on the bottom. It wasn't bad.
thursdays - Good point about the garbage. I guess the cows don't want to eat plastic. It seems so ingrained in the Indian culture to throw trash down--I can't remember seeing many trash cans. BTW, I thought of you when I saw elephants at several Tamil Nadu temples--it was so sad. They were chained up, and people would walk up put money in the trunk, and then the elephant would touch the person's head, as if giving them a blessing, and then the owner would take the money. I told my older son about it, and he said, "Where is PETA when you need it?"
I forgot to mention a new food that I tried in Sri Lanka. Dennis, the owner of my Negombo hotel, served me "Water Buffalo Curd" with honey drizzled on the top. Well, this stuff is better than yogurt. I ate in again for breakfast at my Sinharaja hotel. I'm going to see if it exists here.
Also, for dinner in Dambulla, I had Kottu Roti, which is basically vegetables chopped up with bread. It's a bit starchy, but the taste is quite good. It was not spicy at all--I think the curries are the most spicy dishes. Steven convinced me try a hopper, which is a bready shell similar to a crepe, and it typically has an egg on the bottom. It wasn't bad.
