This is bringing back memories of our recent trip--- we love all the packaged snacks available in India. A lot of them can be bought at our local Indian grocery stores.
One new brand "Kurkure" we came across is not yet available here in the LA area. We just loved it---it's really chips---but taste like you've never tasted before---light and much more tasty than even Nachos.

Yes, we do the same thing---have a lot of energy bars for between large breakfasts and fancy dinners. For some variety, we take with us small packets of nuts, M&M's etc--- better than store bought trail mix IMO.

cross-- you went to India in the off season and made it work for you. Fabulous.
Did you really give out $1 bills as tips ? Not small rupee notes? Right out of the movie Slumdog Millionaire, I'd say.
Looking forward to the report.

We only used the dollar bills for the first two days, until we were able to get small rupee notes, which are not that easy to find. I think I got that tip here here on Fodors.

Didn't try Kurkure, but the whole country was flooded with ads and commercials (We loved watching t.v.) Did you know it's owned by PepsiCo?

FINALLY, THE TRIP REPORT:

LAX-LHR-BOM (AA Award on BA)
Thanks to a stressful year, BA’s comfy business class and the wonders of modern medicine, we slept for most of BOTH flights. This turned out to be a good thing because Mr. C’s entertainment system on Flight #1 wasn’t working – He was given 75 GBP credit for merchandise from their duty free catalog (and in case you’re reading this, honey, I think you should demand some miles as well).

BA continued to throw money our way. At Heathrow the T5 lounge was being renovated, so they gave us a 30 GBP credit for the Starbucks at our gate. Not so easy to spend that much on a couple of non-fat lattes! Ended up with a supply of London souvenir thermal mugs, a hit with our guides and drivers.

LHR-BOM – More than half empty. Much better food (Indian) than from LAX-LHR. Flight seemed very short – if I lived in the UK, I’d visit India twice a year.

MUMBAI AIRPORT
BOM was our gateway because it was the only award ticket available. Deepa had said the airport was horrific, and we expected to get accosted by the supporting cast of Slumdog. Instead, though not shiny and modern, it was odorless and nearly empty when we arrived at 12:30am. We were through immigration in about five minutes with our tiny carry-ons and ten-year visas.

WATERSTONES, MUMBAI (Day 1)
A driver and a representative from Waterstones (on the Guardian’s Mumbai top 10 hotel list) met us in a BMW van and whisked us five minutes away to a quirky, boutique hotel. Ideal for a pit stop near the airport if you want to avoid the western chains, or if you want a giant fitness center (which we didn't have time to use). Our room had a rainforest theme and, apropos of nothing, a graffiti poem on the bathroom wall about a bad blind date.

Got about six hours of sleep then went to breakfast, remarkably refreshed. Had planned to avoid buffets, but the southern Indian spread was too tempting. Sat on the patio where we could smell the sea air and were a little sorry not to be spending time in Mumbai.

MUMBAI-UDAIPUR
The domestic airport was not so bad either, although the shanty town we passed on the way was disturbing to see because I was reading Beyond the Beautiful Forevers. Suggestion: Read this powerful book before or after, not during your trip.

Wasn’t thrilled about flying Air India because of dismal PR, but our BOM-UDR flight left on time, and the plane was much newer than the Jet jets we used later on. Although the flight was only an hour, they served a meal (decent warm veggie curry sandwiches), and we saw most of a Bollywood film in which the same actor played the protagonist and his prospective father-in-law. (Dual roles are a big deal in Bollywood, we learned.)

Our driver was waiting for us at the empty, modern Udaipur airport, along with the guide we would be using the next day. Became instant BFFs with both, especially because they were impressed with our lack of luggage. Our guide had studied history in Canada and is a distant relative of the royal family, the ones who still dwell in the Grand Palace. Very classy and personable – texted us for the rest of the trip with hints and factoids.

It poured on the way to to Devi Garh (one of two thunderstorms of the trip). But we were distracted by our new Indian SIM card, and also by the skills of our driver who calmly avoided the vehicles and animals that careened toward us during the 40- minute journey. The roads do have to be seen to be believed - like a wacky video game with all sorts of never-ending random obstacles.

DEVI GARH – rural Rhajasthan near Udaipur (Days 2-6)
Wasn’t sure if this restored palace/fort could live up to its Tripadvisor reputation, but it is simply AWESOME - stunning suites and views, gorgeous pool, superb food and service, cool design (traditional exterior, all-white contemporary interior), world class spa, great activities. Five minutes from the “living” Eklingi temple and serene Nagda ruins.

We didn’t think the 45 minutes to Udaipur was a schlep, and were happy to come home to the lush countryside every night. But what really nailed it for us was the authentic, photogenic village of Delwara right next door, where we fell in love with the people.

All this at an affordable off-season rate – A complete package of beauty, relaxation and culture that could work as a sole destination in India. (Only thing missing was a gift shop!)

It was still monsooning when we arrived, so we were greeted with a Bindi ceremony rather than the famous rose petal welcome. We were given a choice of two white marble Palace Suites with geometric gemstone accents and drop-dead views of the Araveli mountains and the colorful village. (Both Cicerone and Louise had advised against booking the lower category Garden suites because these lacked views, but these would work if you don't like stairs or elevators.)

AYURVEDIC TREATMENT
The spa was offering a special – two fatigue-relieving body-mind treatments for the price of one (Rs7250=$72). We both signed up for the Abhyanga full body oil massage, which pacifies the doshas, provides stamina and promotes longevity, plus the Shirodhara, a slow oil drip on the forehead (the third eye), which promotes peace of mind. Two hours later we were balanced and polarized. Farewell to jet lag... and to all of our other problems.

BAR/RESTAURANT
The rain stopped and we had a Kingfisher at the bar, overlooking the green hills as the sun set in the dramatic sky.

Then we headed to the restaurant where we split a yummy vegetarian thali, a perfect first day in India.

--

Next: Ayurveda-energized travelers go crazy sightseeing: three tours, a boat ride, a puppet show and dinner in the Venice of Asia - all in one day.

I'm ready to hop on a plane to Devi Garh immediately! Isn't it a shame we don't live in Europe as every place is such an easy flight compared to travel from the US.

PS You'll get used to the empty nest pretty quickly...

Oh, and I agree, miles were in order for a useless video in biz class. I've had that happen a couple of times on 6hr int'l flts and was given 15,000miles each time.

Loving this. I want to hear more, but you may have sold us on Devi Garth.

BTW I had the oil dripped on my forehead treatment in Sri Lanka and hated it. Spent a long time trying to shampoo all the oil out of my hair! For me, it felt like having oil dripped on it closed my third eye rather than opening it - lol.

Loving your report.
We get Karkure and every other Indian snack here in Toronto.

LOL Kathie re the dripping oil. I had an oil scalp massage and while it felt great, part two f the massage was self-inflicted as i tried to remove it from my hair.

CC, i surrender--am sold on Devi Garh, and like moremiles, tempted to reserve the next flights over! Great minds think alike--had it not been for your glowing review, i might have had to bypass it in favor of hotel with gift shop (-:

(Off topic, but the icing on the cake at wonderful Serena Sweetwaters in Ol Pejeta, was its fantastic gift shop!!!)

anxious to read more

Thanks, all. Kathie and Cali, I did have a bad hair day after the drip, but it was surprisingly relaxing.

miles, Mr. C will to respond to you directly re: BA. I suspect it will be a rant about their award program.

emdee, A visit to Toronto is in order!

rhk, Honored that you're reading this so soon after the GTG

A few corrections:
City Palace, not Grand Palace.
Correct price of the treatments: Rs 3750 = $72

DAY 3
Dawn over the Arevelis, then breakfast, included with our room,
overlooking the landscape. Fellow guests were from Calcutta. They recommended what they were having and our servers brought us all that and more - a multi-course feast. From then on, the chef always had something new he wanted us to try. (Giant portion size an issue at DG in general, but they do mean well.)

By the end of our stay we were great fans of every Indian breakfast item - idlis, dosas, paranthas and masala omelettes, all served with fruit, mini-lassis and fantastic coffee.

DEVI GARH PALACE TOUR
Next up was a tour of the hotel - a must-do for history buffs (real 18th c maharajas lived there)…or for anyone who has ever done a renovation (just decades ago the place was a dump). Before and after photos were almost unbelievable. Now the gardens and public spaces rival what you see in the City Palace. Bonus: A great 45-minute workout, if you opt not to use the elevator.

UPGRADE KARMA
Midway though the tour, our guide told us we were being upgraded to an Araveli suite, the top room category besides the sole presidential suite. We had mixed feelings because we were in love with our then-current suite, but the guide stated that the new one would bring us more "satisfaction." She wasn’t kidding – we had a choice of a giant two-level duplex or a sprawling complex with a drawing room, bedroom, bath, dressing room, living room and enclosed round meditation terrace, with cushions strategically placed to take in the killer views.

We chose Door #2, and I have been pining away for it ever since we left.

VILLAGE VISIT
Akhtar, 22, met us at the palace gates to show us his village. Moments later we were strolling through the narrow alleyways of Delwara, an agricultural hamlet of 5000 - a peaceful mix of Jains, Hindus, Muslims and tribals. We asked Akhtar which of these he was, and he said “human." He was one of the favorite people we met in India - Smart and charismatic, will one day be the mayor of Delwara, and then surely the governor of Rhajasthan. (Thrilled to be still be in touch with him - He phoned the day after we returned to U.S. to make sure we had
made it home okay.)

The town is clean, vividly colorful and full of photo ops. There are few vehicles, no tourists, no tourist shops – but lots of friendly cows and some of the most wonderful people we’ve ever met. We visited the potter, the embroiderers, the school, the lentil fields, the “7-11,” the "Starbucks," the stepwall and the remarkable marble-pillared Jain temple, which Akhtar called a mini Ranakpur.

School kids were adorable and enthusiastic spellers - We asked the principal if they needed anything and he showed us that their floor mats had been destroyed in the monsoon. We set up a time to return the next day to make a donation for the new floor, and also got Akhtar’s address so we could send the photos we took of the villagers. (People everywhere wanted us to be photographed, sometimes styling their shots and asking me to delete and retake.)

On the way back to the hotel, we passed a lovely building with ornate trellises. Aktar said that a Danish artist had bought the second story flat for about the same price that it would cost to spend a week at Devi Garh, and she’d soon be living there for half the year. The beginning of the gentrification of Delwara?

--
At 1pm our driver picked us up for the ride into Udaipur. The road was in good shape and fascinating, with the iconic sight of Rajasthan of women in colorful saris balancing things on their heads. Outskirts of Udaipur were not quite as picturesque.

UDAIPUR - CITY PALACE/ WEIRD VENICE COMPARISONS
Met up with our guide and went to a café for macchiatos (I thought we’d be drinking a lot more tea), then on to the palace, full of history, treasures, Indian tourists and slightly reminiscent of Devi Garh, in a good way.

Whoever decided to call Udaipur the Venice of the East must have flunked out of PR school. Only similarities to Venice are the boat rides, the sparkly view at night and the above-mentioned macchiato. They don’t even have pigeons.

BOAT RIDE
Louise had told us that a one-hour cruise on Lake Pichola might sound like a cheesy activity, but it was well worth going at dusk. An excellent suggestion – relaxing, golden hour for photos, and a chance to take a closer look at the Taj Grand Palace and convince ourselves that we were glad to be staying in the countryside. However, the palatial estate on the island where we stopped is now being converted to a hotel…could be fabulous.

FIRST SHOPPING EXPERIENCE – GANESH HANDICRAFTS EMPORIUM
Frustratingly brief stop at one of the world's most outstanding – and overwhelming - textile stores - recommended by several friends, worth visiting just to have chai with the owner in his ancient 4-story haveli. Bought some pillow covers and a table runner made of vintage fabric – Even after a return visit the following day, I regret not buying more (not just fabrics, they have everything - clothes, rugs, bags). It was here that I discovered that Mr. C is as unenthusiastic about shopping as my sons are. All these years I blamed them for our abbreviated souvenir stops.

At this point our guide said farewell for the day and our driver stayed with us, strategically waiting for us in restricted parking areas.

PUPPETS - Bharatiya Lok Kala Museum
Again, recommended by friends, including a choreographer. Cool
space, good music, talented dancers and puppeteers, but fellow guests were swarms of mosquitoes, and we left after three or four numbers.

DINNER AT AMBRAI
I bet even Venetians are envious of Ambrai’s romantic, glittering City Palace/Taj Palace view. I think we had some sort of Mewari special dal here. Food was tasty, not quite as spicy as we like, but ambiance makes up for it. Seated at the primo lakeside table, procured by our guide.

We both slept soundly on the way back to DG. A very long day with way more activities than usual, but not at all too hectic, not even for the normally grumpy Mr. C, who craves his siesta
when traveling (and otherwise). I think we both had been seduced by India big time. Or else he was thrilled that I had purchased only pillow covers.

NEXT: We deviate from Louise’s itinerary and blow off Ranakpur

you missed the pigeons, there are lots of them..

Somehow I have to fit in a trip to Devi Garh-you have made it sound irresistible and my previous trip to Udaipur was way too brief anyway. Can't wait for the detour!

I'm taking notes for our trip. Ganesh shopping sounds great. Found them online (in a travel magazine article). Keep up the information. You are making our trip even better. Devi Garh will be busier in February but we have booked the "Romance Package" so we should get some special experiences.

Thrilled/envious that you’re all going to Devi Garh. Hope their rates don’t go through the roof, like the Anantara.

DAY 4

We had planned to go to Ranakpur, but couldn’t bear to be away from DG all day (1.5+ hrs. each way), and also wanted more time in Udaipur. So early in the morning after we went to the village and presented the school staff with our donation for the new floor mats, we headed into town with our driver.

VEGETABLES
Met up with our guide, who insisted on hanging out with us even though it wasn’t the plan, and soon we arrived at one of the most colorful, vibrant outdoor markets on the planet. Foodies and photographers – don’t even think of missing this place.

SCIENCE
As we marveled at the vats of spices and canvas bags overflowing with red chiles, some 11 year old girls came running out of a public school (all girls) to invite us to come in and see their science fair.

(Craig had written about a similar experience in his Udaipur trip report, and I had remembered thinking that he was incredibly lucky. But could it be that all tourists get invitations to school science fairs as a prelude to outsourcing??)

Spent a long time with the students, as they proudly showed off their projects and their English. As sweet as they were (both the projects and the girls), it was your basic fair fare (solar cookers, diagrams of organs, and global warming topographic maps), no groundbreaking microchips as expected.

ART
It was hard to leave, but we were on a mission – next stop
was a fabulous contemporary gallery/sculpture garden, followed by a gorgeous shop with exquisite embroidered shawls and other fabrics. Next was the studio of a dealer of miniature art, where we bought a small Rajput painting,not collector quality, but a fine souvenir.

At each gallery we had tea with the owners or artisans, with no pressure to buy. I could have done this for days, but Mr. C began to grow concerned that I would purchase a giant sculpture, so we ended our shopping with a quick revisit to Ganesh Handicraft Emporium to pick up a few more packable items.

RUINS
Shortly after noon, it was time to bid farewell to our guide, since the next day we would be on our own. We stayed in touch with him by text throughout the trip, and I'm certain we'll meet up with him again during a longer Rajasthan visit.

On the way back to DG we stopped at Nagda, a cluster of abandoned 6th century temples in a peaceful, lush setting
adjacent to a lotus-covered lake. Three days into our trip and we still were in awe of every sight we saw.

CAMELS
After a rest and some lentil snacks from the market, it was time for our free 5pm camel ride through the village of Delwara and the neighboring fields. We thought this would be extremely hokey…okay, maybe it was, but it also quite fun – empty nesters gone wild.

STREET FOOD
The DG bar chef will prepare any kind of street food you order, so you can get an upscale version of what you didn't dare to eat at the market. As we watched the sunset, we had Kingfishers and some yummy fried chiles stuffed with potato. Then after a rose petal bath (they’re big on rose petals at DG – check out the Bourdain episode), we both fell asleep and missed dinner. Had to be that strenuous camel ride!

At 10:30pm we were fast asleep when received a call from the restaurant to find out if we were planning to eat…Found out the next day that we had missed a big surprise they had prepared a for us.

NEXT: A day of spirituality - A living temple, yoga, meditation, dress-up time…and a most memorable meal

loving the report

Lol, "empty nesters gone wild" is great!

Please, do you know the names/addresses of the shops you went to. I am not a great shopper but I do want to buy miniature painting(s), plus all the usual.
Was the vegeatable market the obvious one that our guide would take us?
In addition, I want to have a dress copied. Suggestion, Delhi or Udaipur would be best since we will be there 3/4 days.
So glad you are writing these reports.

cross-check - i just came across this after posting the start of my TR on our recent hols in Sri lanka, and you've got me thinking about India now - to be fair, we were talking about it towards the end of our Sri lanka trip but you've sold me on it now.

our style of travel [and time of life - lol] is a bit like yours - we wanted a range of experiences, a mixture of boutique and not so boutique hotels, culture, scenery and food, activity and relaxation. We didn't restrict ourselves to carry-on [on Air Sri lanka, the carry-on weight limit is 6kgs! whereas the hold limit is 30 kgs - way more than we could manage!] and therefore took far too many clothes. however as we were visiting the hill country, we didn't know how cold it might get so a cardi or two was in order, plus one set of warmer clothes, none of which we wore from one end of the trip to the other. our macs got one outing for about an hour, and i wore the same pair of shoes [actually sandals] for the entire trip. another time, i'll know what to take and what to leave at home - and that the laundries are fantastic.

We didn't take any anti-biotics [it never occurred to us] but we did take what seemed like half a suitcase full of medicaments, hardly any of which saw the light of day - we used the anti-histamine cream a bit, the sun-tan cream, 2 plasters and the athletes' foot cream. and a couple of paracetamol. OTOH, we might have needed a lot more like the toilet wipes, so I'd take most of that again.

we had the same van and driver throughout, so we got to know him pretty well. another time I'd try to fly a bit more - people we met had flown from colombo to Kandy for example, for about U$ 50 each, on a sea-plane which landed on the lake. Very 1930s.

anyway, very much looking forward to more of your report, cross-check. keep it coming.

thanks, rhk and mm, appreciate that you're still with me. I intended to be brief...

Elainee, The contemporary gallery is Bougainvillae, well worth a visit. Embroidery place is Andraab, seemed pricey at the time, but I truly regret buying something there. I don't have the name of the miniature art gallery. Will find out, but in retrospect I would have preferred to visit the studio of just a few artists...the selection where we went was all over the place, too varied.

annhig, Your report has moved SL up many notches on our list!