"I remember reading your account of the Museum of Architecture / Altar of Agriculture – it was part of what inspired me to make it a priority." - that is so cool! Thanks for telling me.

And I'm still loving your report and impressed by your trip.

I enjoy reading your travels very much, too, k. You convey your thoughts and feelings genuinely. It's nice to read as if we were a actually listening to your own thoughts there ..

BTW, hello neighbor!

Colduphere - sorry I neglected to respond yesterday! As you can see, my report is getting longer and longer. Be careful what you wish for!

Tekwriter – I trust you will have a wonderful time gathering your own experiences in China. Thanks for your kind words!

Thursdaysd and Mango7 – Thanks for letting me know that you are finding my report of interest!


Installment 3:
Qufu

The rest of the rather short bus ride (a bit over an hour) was uneventful. My first goal upon arriving in Qufu was to secure a train ticket on to Luoyang. Trains don’t leave from Qufu — they leave from Yanzhou, a city about a 20- or 30-minute taxi ride away, and I wasn’t sure whether I could buy a ticket in Qufu. I was glad to learn that the ticketing office near Qufu’s bus station was able to book tickets for trains from Yanzhou for a nominal fee. I was even more delighted to obtain my 1st choice: a lower-berth soft-sleeper ticket for the next night’s overnight train. Outstanding!

Ticket in hand, I took a taxi to my target hotel, the Mingya Confucius. The delightful young receptionist seemed both surprised and pleased that her English skills were being called into service. The room met my needs well and was very affordable (with the immediately offered discount). I freshened up and went to the hotel’s restaurant for dinner. The menu featured some of the local specialties on my list of recommended dishes. I ordered daizi shangchao — a stew of pork, chicken, chestnuts, and ginseng topped with aspic. Delicious! I also had a small serving of shili yinzing, or sweet ginkgo — also very good. Once again, I finished eating a bit after the restaurant closed; once again, no one rushed me in any way.

Thursday 13 May — Qufu

The breakfast buffet here also held only Chinese foods; again, a young man was in charge of an egg station. I had scrambled eggs and some sticky buns. I asked if coffee was available; it wasn’t. I assured them it was not a problem. A few minutes later, two waitresses appeared with a cup of egg drop soup and a plate of sliced watermelon, saying “sorry, no coffee.” What a wonderfully sweet gesture, but how, exactly, would these dishes substitute for coffee? I did my very best to express appreciation for their effort, even as I was fighting to suppress my laughter at the incongruity of the situation. I ate — and enjoyed — every last bit of both.

I then checked out, stored my luggage at the desk (taking note that this hotel did not seem due for renovation), and headed off to explore the town.

Qufu was the birthplace of Confucius, and his descendents — the Kongs — were regional officials. My first stop was the Confucius Mansion, which I found very interesting. It includes a variety of official rooms, then residential areas, and finally a garden. It was almost unbearably packed with tour groups, with people jockeying for viewing positions and posing for pictures and inadvertently blocking ingress and egress routes as they clustered around their guide and otherwise doing perfectly understandable things that, unfortunately, make it difficult to fully appreciate the complex. The garden at the far end was lovely, with several distinct areas in different styles, some flowers in bloom, and a few areas that weren’t swamped with other visitors.

I then went to the Confucius Temple, stopping briefly to climb a tower that offered views over its entryway. This temple was quite grand, but in an understated way. The nearly empty forecourts of regularly planted trees, some seemingly very old, and a courtyard that was edged by long corridors with altars to Confucian disciples provided a peaceful prelude to the throngs of tour groups I encountered in the main temple areas. (I was surprised by how many Chinese tour groups were in Qufu.) The main temple and some of the gates held remarkable pillars of carved rock in the shape of coiled dragons – truly impressive.

I also visited Yan Miao, a temple to one of Confucius’s disciples. In a similar, if smaller and more modest style, it was a pleasant place to visit. And in contrast to the Confucius Temple, I had the place almost to myself.

Next, I hired a rickshaw to the Confucian Forest, an ancient cemetery. After passing the rows of shops that I came to believe were inevitable outside a tourist destination in China, I got off at the main gate and walked down a long tree-lined entryway. Once inside the forest/cemetery, I joined the crowds visiting Confucius’s gravesite. Then I strolled into the forest. An extensive area shaded by an impressive variety of leafy trees, there was a fascinating array of different types of grave markers and differently sized burial mounds. In some areas, it seemed that the terrain consisted of an unbroken nexus of small mounds. Although I could generally hear the sound of traffic from somewhere in the distance, it was a peaceful place. Every 10 minutes or so, a “golf cart” bearing tourists whisked by on the paved lanes, but I ran into at most a half-dozen others on foot during my hour or so in the forest. I thoroughly enjoyed my time here, and particularly enjoyed the spirit-way statues of a few clusters of Ming graves.

I made my way back to my hotel, freshened up, and tried (unsuccessfully) to find a couple of restaurants I had read about. I ended up at the restaurant of the Queli Hotel, which one of my guidebooks said offered “the best dining” in Qufu. I ordered a dish of egg, shrimp paste, and chicken, which I was told was a local specialty; it was fine, but a little oily. I also ordered lotus root in ginger — I love lotus root! In contrast to the vast majority of restaurants I patronized on this trip, the wait staff seemed generally indifferent, and the prices seemed high given the quality of the food and service.

After dinner, I visited the night market, which held merchants and food stalls and other people ambling around. It wasn’t particularly busy, but there were enough people around for it have a sense of energy. I particularly enjoyed listening to an elderly man who was playing a traditional stringed instrument. Then I roamed around the town for a bit and sat where I could admire the nicely lit Drum Tower. Finally, I returned to my hotel, sent some e-mails from its business center, claimed my luggage, and took a taxi to Yanzhou for my overnight train.

Just in passing, and for those who might follow, there is a station in Qufu (which has been there for several years now although some guide books seem not to have caught up), but it has fewer services than the station at Yanzhou. There is, however, the K52 to Beijing at 20.28, for instance, and the K1632 to Luoyang at 22.17, which might very well be the train that was boarded at Yanzhou a little later at 22.59 (?)

Also just in case of interest, the Yansheng ('descendants of the sage') were very much more than simply local officials, being, at the height of their powers, very wealthy and owning vast amounts of land which funded temple and residence, as well as playing a major part in the education system, founded on knowledge of Confucian texts. As successive emperors heaped honours on them, the senior descendant in the male line reached only a step or two below the emperors, several of whom visited Qufu. The Duke himself was the only person other than the emperor allowed to ride a horse in the Forbidden City. The only recently deceased last Yansheng headed for Taiwan with the Nationalists, and his title was eventually abolished, but he spent some time in charge of the Education Yuan (ministry), and his grandson (his son predeceased him) still has a special title in Taiwan.

The reason for the mass Chinese tourism in Qufu is World Heritage blight. Unfortunately the place was listed by UNESCO, which is, in the Chinese list-building way of thinking, to be at the very top of the very top list. Listing is requested in order to boost tourism (often multiplying volumes dozens of times) and there's been significant damage done as a result (notably to some ancient frescoes which someone decided to give a brush down in order to improve the place for tourism). Complete theme park status cannot be far away, but I'm glad the place was still found to be worth a visit. It remains, after all, the third most significant (lists again) complex of ancient buildings in China.

Oh, and the Queli decided to charge me ten times the menu price for some dumplings the last time I was there. Worth avoiding.

Kja - I really admire people like you who do these trips on their own. Keep up the great writing.

PeterN_H — I had no idea I could catch a train to Luoyang from Qufu! Nor did my advance research identify a train leaving Yanzhou around 11 p.m. That train would have suited me really well. The one I took was scheduled to leave Yanzhou around 1 a.m. I wonder if it stopped in Qufu? . . . Thanks for clarifying the role of the Yansheng. I thought they were powerful, but wasn’t sure how much so. It’s interesting to know that the Duke had the right to ride a horse in the Forbidden City . . . I was glad that not all of the World Heritage sites I visited on this trip were as busy as Qufu. Tourism can be so destructive when not managed well.

Colduphere — thanks again for your kind words!


Installment 4:
Luoyang

I arrived in Yanzhou in plenty of time, but my train was delayed; it didn’t arrive until about 2:30 a.m. The “usual” chaos ensued — crowds massing by a locked gate in the departures hall, mad dash to the platform, and finally (in contrast to the mad dash) what seemed an incongruously long wait for the train to arrive. Upon finally boarding, I did my best to enter my compartment quietly, but I don't believe I succeeded. To their credit, none of my 3 compartment-mates provided any indication to the contrary. And I am very glad to report that I found my sleeper surprisingly comfortable - better than some of the hotel beds in which I slept!

Friday 14 May — Luoyang

My first task upon arriving was to buy a train ticket for the next leg of my journey (to Xi’an), which I did easily. Then I hailed a metered taxi to my targeted lodging, Christian’s Hotel. A young woman who spoke English very well showed me a beautifully appointed room, complete with a jacuzzi that was surrounded by slatted wood screens and potted plants and a few artfully arranged objects; the discounted price she offered was so low that I thought I had misheard her. I tried to bargain for a lower rate any way, but wasn't disappointed when she said no.

I quickly showered and then went back to the hotel desk to get some information. My plan was to walk to a museum, take a quick walk through a nearby park, and then take a bus to the Longmen Grottoes, a set of caves with Buddhist carvings outside of town. I wanted to confirm that my map was correct and make sure I knew where to get the bus. The young lady and the other desk staff kept assuring me that they could take me to these places. I’m sure they could – for a price! But these are all places that I was sure could be easily reached by foot and/or public transportation, and I wasn’t willing to pay for what I could easily manage on my own. I refused as politely as I could.

The nearby Luoyang Museum holds some fascinating relics and beautiful objects, and they are well displayed. After a very pleasant hour or so, I stepped outside, where I was surprised to find the young lady from my hotel, now out of uniform. She said she had been sent by her manager to make sure that I understood that their offer to escort me around Luoyang was free. Free? Yes, free. Really? Yes, really, free — it is a service that they provide to their guests. OMG!

So we went to the nearby Wangcheng Park, which must be stunning in April when its myriad peonies are in bloom. After a brief visit, I said I was ready to go to the Longmen Grottoes. She called the hotel’s driver; soon, the car and driver appeared and off we went. Upon arriving at the grottoes, I bought my ticket while my companion hired an English-speaking guide for me — at the hotel’s expense. Oh my! I didn’t learn much that I hadn’t already known from my reading, but I enjoyed chatting with the guide, and she made sure I saw some things that I might not otherwise have noticed. The Longmen Grottoes are definitely impressive. The Buddhas range in size from minute to massive; they have different features, reflecting changes in ideals of beauty; some still show the colors in which they had been painted. One cave was covered with characters that are apparently medical prescriptions. Barriers had been erected to keep people out while two men made rubbings of them. It was fascinating to watch the characters emerge! When we reached the end of the main caves, the guide returned to the entrance. I decided to cross to the far side of the river that flows beside the caves, and am glad I got to see the grottoes and some of the larger statues from a more distant perspective while walking along a tree-lined lane.

I was later in returning than I had promised my escort, but she and the driver were there and seemed unfazed by the delay. They took an indirect route back to the hotel so that they could show me Luoyang’s new museum and a few other things they thought might interest me. They also asked about my dinner plans, and when I told them that I wanted to sample the local cuisine — perhaps a few dishes of Luoyang’s “water banquet” — they suggested a restaurant right around the corner from the hotel and offered to accompany me there to help me order. I appreciated the offer, but begged off because I wanted to shower and change first.

A little while later, when I was ready to go to the restaurant, I found that the hotel had called in another English-speaking staff member to escort me to the restaurant and help me order. I am not accustomed to such service! This woman helped me choose two delicious soups, one with pork and one with local vegetables.

After dinner, I walked around a bit. This section of the city has some interesting tree-lined streets decorated with colored lights and a shopping mall, and there were quite a few people out. When I returned to my room, I found a basket of fresh fruit with a note in English saying that it was safe to eat. I took advantage of free internet access using the computer in the room and then, finally, luxuriated in the jacuzzi. Perfect!

Saturday 15 May — Luoyang to Xi’an

The hotel’s car was not available this day, but the staff again insisted on helping me. I wanted to go to Baima Si, so a bellboy took me by taxi, at the hotel’s expense, to the bus stop from which I could reach it. I didn’t have enough time to do justice to this large temple complex, but I was glad to see what I did see, including several gardens where many flowers were in bloom. There was also an exquisite display of porcelain, some with incredibly intricate details that could only be appreciated with the help of a magnifying glass. I know that because a curator showed me — and I’m so glad he did! All too soon, it was time to return to my hotel (my wonderful hotel!), pick up my suitcase, and head for the train station.

Installment 5:
Xi’an

Time to go to Xi'an! For this train, staff appeared to be ensuring that foreigners boarded before Chinese people. I admit that it made it easier for me, because I could get my suitcase on board and in place with relatively uncrowded aisles, but my hard-seat ticket was no different than any of theirs, so it made me feel a bit uncomfortable. BTW, my seat was not as hard as I feared, but was a bit more cramped than I would have preferred. Still, it was manageable, even for a rather long train ride.

The train was quite full, and as the hours passed, I enjoyed observing the interactions among my neighbors - card games, conversations, shared snacks, naps on one another’s shoulders.... A charismatic vendor came through selling tiny LED flashlights; I couldn’t tell what he was saying, but he engendered a lot of laughter. I also enjoyed the scenery - sometimes flat and often cultivated, sometimes with hills or mountains to one side or the other, sometimes terraced with caves here and there.

Finally arriving in Xi’an, I went straight to the ticket office to try to buy my ticket on to Pingyao. After a very long wait, I reached the window, handed the woman my written train information, and watched her quickly close the window. Another agent came, looked at my printout and also closed the window. Then someone else came and told me to go to window 20. I had no idea what the problem was, but I fought through the crowds, looked at the signs, and realized that window 20 was closed! Just then, a young English-speaking woman approached. She said she had witnessed what had happened, and perhaps she could help. We had a nice chat while we stood in another line and waited (and waited and waited). When we finally got to the window, I learned, with her help, that the train I had targeted actually left from the Xi’an South station, which I hadn’t even known existed and which was apparently some distance away. I pointed to my 2nd choice train, which left and arrived at similar times, and soon had a ticket in hand. I barely had time to thank this young woman — her train (I didn’t know she was waiting for one!) was to leave in minutes! I sincerely hope she caught it!

It took patience and perseverance to find a taxi that would use a meter to take me to my target hotel, but I finally succeeded, and reached the Ibis Hotel, where I quickly determined that a suitable room was available at a very low price. I took advantage of the free internet in the lobby and then took care of some chores (like handwash). It was quite late when I finally went to bed.

Sunday 16 May — 1st full day in Xi’an

I didn’t wake up as early as I would have preferred, and even when I did, I was moving slowly. I must not have been thinking very clearly either, because the first place I went was the Small Goose Pagoda – a place I had specifically singled out for visiting late in the day because it would be open longer than most places. I had a much-needed cup of coffee at a place just beside the temple before entering.

I had never seen an all brick pagoda, which made this one particularly interesting to me. I spent some time roaming the grounds and then some time admiring its museum, which holds some remarkable pieces. There were some youngsters practicing what looked like martial arts outside the museum, and when they saw that I was watching, they really hammed it up. I also stopped in the craft stores on the grounds. I didn’t purchase anything, but enjoyed looking — some of the goods seemed of very high quality.

When I was ready to leave, I took a taxi to Daxingshan Si. This temple was under restoration, so only a few parts were open. It was fascinating, if disconcerting, to see the two side temples in which “hell” is depicted, for example, statues showing people enduring horrific torture at the hand of demons. I hadn’t seen anything like this in a Buddhist temple before.

From there, I walked through drizzly rain to the Shaanxi History Museum. I had been prepared for a long line, and so was pleased to find that it wasn’t very long. Nonetheless, it took me almost 2 hours to reach the ticket booth, in part because everyone had to complete a form once they reached the counter and show proof of identity to obtain a ticket (which was free). I don’t know why people weren’t given the chance to complete the form before reaching the counter. This museum holds some exquisite and priceless pieces and they are well displayed with English signage. IMHO, well worth visiting, even if it does mean waiting for a long time.

When it closed, I walked toward the Great Goose Pagoda, but even as I reached the public park to its west, I realized that I was unlikely to reach the ticket gate before it closed so I didn't go all the way to the gate. Instead, I walked around a bit, enjoying the modern sculptures that adorn the park and various vignettes of people visiting the area.

My next stop was the Bell Tower Hotel. Once there, I obtained information about one of the very few tours I had planned to take while in China - a tour to sites west of Xi’an. From what I’d read, it would be far easier and less costly to see these particular sites with a tour than on my own. I didn’t find a tour that would be conducted in English, but I wasn’t worried about that – I had done some reading before the trip and had a Kindle with a couple of guidebooks that I could consult while on the bus. I booked a tour for the next day, and then walked around that area for a while before returning to my hotel to freshen up.

Once I was ready, I had a pleasant 15 or 20 minute walk to the branch of Lao Sun Jia just outside Dong Men, which was decorated with strings of colored lights. I was seated by two ornately clad hostesses, who conferred with the wait staff before showing me to a table; after a while I was asked to change tables; then I was completely ignored for a long while (perhaps 20 minutes); and then I was told that I could order yangrou paomo but NOTHING else, not even a vegetable dish, because the kitchen was closing. That news did not sit well with me, given that I had been seated for so long, but what could I do? I ordered the yangrou paomo, which was what I had come there to try. I was soon given a bowl and some buns. Thanks to my guidebooks and previous posters on this board (and not to the wait staff), I knew what to do - I shredded the buns into the bowl. As I was doing so, a group of four people arrived; they were seated and ordered. And while I awaited my paomo, the table of four was served various appetizers. Then my paomo came, but without anything else - no herbs, no vegetables, noodles, nothing other than the broth, meat, and shredded bun. It was a nourishing, but very bland meal, made even more disappointing when I saw that various side dishes were served with the paomo delivered to the table that arrived after me. I felt “cheated” of the chance to taste something I’d been looking forward to trying. Very disappointing!

Monday 17 May — 2nd full day in Xi’an

I woke up early, as was necessary to join the “Western” tour that I had booked the evening before. En route, a thoroughly delightful woman who spoke English fluently introduced herself and offered to translate for me. How kind! I agreed, as long as it didn’t detract from her enjoyment of the day.

Our first stop was a re-creation of a workers’ village from the Tang dynasty. According to our guide/my translator, the people who lived here would have been involving in building the Western imperial tombs. A series of cave dwellings and underground corridors led to an above-ground square and above-ground home; mannequins and other displays created vignettes to show how people lived, produced vinegar and other foods, and wove fabrics. It was very touristy, but interesting nonetheless.

From there we went to the Tomb of Prince Zhang Huai, where we walked down a long mural-lined ramp to the burial chamber. The murals were stunning! If they are the originals, they were also appallingly poorly protected. We were given a brief amount of time to visit the small museum by this tomb before heading to lunch, which I skipped.

Next, we went to Qian Ling, where Emperor Gao Zong and Empress Wu Zetian are buried. The tomb itself is not open, but the entryway is well worth seeing IMO. There were some impressive stellae, rows of headless statues, and a wonderful Spirit Way. Broad and long and edged by impressive pairs of guardian statues, it is quite grand in scale and easily absorbed the sounds of the many tour groups who were there at the time. The setting itself was also pleasant - rural and relatively flat except for the conical hills into which the tombs had been dug.

We eventually climbed back onto the bus for the trip to Famen Si. This temple is - and has long been - a pilgrimage site because it is among China’s oldest Buddhist temples, and moreover, is believed to have a fragment of Buddha’s finger. The recipient of many subsequent gifts, it amassed a remarkable collection of fine objects before that collection was (as I understand it) buried and eventually given up for lost. It was re-discovered relatively recently, while the main pagoda was being rebuilt after an earthquake. The collection is small, but includes some exquisitely crafted reliquaries and other objects that were well displayed and well signed. The site has, however, been expanded recently to include a grand new entryway (it is, I suppose, possible that those were real lotus in the formal ponds); an avenue lined with enormous gold-painted Buddhas that is so long that just about everyone takes (and pays for) a sort of trolley rather than walking; and an oversized museum. I appreciated the symbolic architectural depiction of praying hands created by the new museum, but otherwise, this area struck me as too vast and too overdone.

After our visit, we re-boarded our bus for the long (about 2.5 hour) ride back into Xi’an. My volunteer translator was a delightful companion for the day; I hope she knows how much I appreciated her kindness!

Upon returning to Xi’an, I went straight to the Bell Tower. I took in the views, admired the interior beams, and thoroughly enjoyed a brief concert that began just as I was about to leave - it was musical and visually interesting as well.

It was not far to the Muslim Quarter and Anjia Shaocai, a restaurant recommended by one of my guidebooks as a place where I could get good food and have a beer with it, even though it is a Muslim establishment. Good food - yes; beer - no. (BTW, I later saw a number of restaurants in the area where people were drinking beer.) I ordered lamb kebobs (very tasty and tender!) and a dish of local vegetables – bok choy and a type of mushroom with which I was not familiar in a sauce that was absolutely delicious. Perfect! (An aside - almost every time I ordered mushrooms in China, someone tried to confirm that I like mushrooms. Why was that???)

After dinner, I explored the Muslim Quarter Night Market. What a great place! There were enticing aromas from every one of the many stalls and restaurants (thank goodness I ate before roaming!) and vendors selling all sorts of things and glimpses of people eating at outdoor tables or ordering at street-side grills or shopping or people-watching or otherwise taking advantage of what was a very pleasant evening. There was a delightful aura of hospitality and conviviality about the area.

There is a Folk Museum within the market; it’s in a courtyard house and is open late. I began with a brief (perhaps 10- minute) shadow puppet show, for which there is a small additional fee and which they will present even if you are the only person there. I thoroughly enjoyed it! I have an interest in traditional performing arts and hoped to see a bit of this ancient variety “live” (having previously seen it only in movies). Loud and overdrawn and geared toward uneducated masses, it nonetheless requires skill. I was glad to catch a glimpse of this vanishing genre. Next, I participated in what was described as a “tea ceremony.” If it was, it was not what I expected (but my only comparison point was a Japanese tea ceremony). A charming woman served me four different teas, and it was interesting to compare and contrast the tastes and aromas. Not surprisingly, it ended with a suggestion that I might want to purchase some of the teas, but there was no pressure whatsoever. Then a voluble English-speaking guide took me through the rest of the building. It held some pleasant courtyards and various rooms furnished in ways designed to recreate the sense of what they would have been like in the house’s heyday.

I strolled around the market a bit longer, admired the Drum Tower, and took a taxi back to my hotel.

Tuesday 18 May — 3rd full day in Xi’an

My priority for the day was to see the Terracotta Warriors. Just a few months before, I had seen a wonderful exhibit of some of these pieces, and I was really looking forward to seeing them in situ. I got there easily by bus, walked through the long stretch of tourist shops and restaurants, and finally reached the ticket gates.

Once again, I found that nothing I had read or seen fully prepared me for actually seeing something - WOW!!! The scale of the pits, the imposing phalanxes of soldiers, that the uniqueness of each piece can be discerned even from a distance, the incredible challenges of the excavation and restoration. . . . I was enthralled! There were masses of tourists everywhere, but especially so in the museum. I focused on things I hadn’t previously seen, and was glad that I wasn’t trying to take it all in for the first time. It really is an extraordinary place. I spent much longer there than I had thought I would and enjoyed every moment.

After taking the bus back to Xi’an, I walked around the area near my hotel for a while. I particularly liked a small park outside the gate at the south end of Heping Street, where a group of men had gathered under their birdcages. They (the men, not the birds) were talking or exercising or just sitting quietly in each other’s company. Very pleasant!

I returned to my hotel and prepared for the Tang Dynasty Dinner Theater. That this dinner theater is clearly intended for tourists did not diminish my enjoyment at all. The “imperial banquet” included a number of dishes that varied in quality, but none were awful, some were quite good, and all were beautifully presented. I also appreciated getting to taste small portions of multiple dishes. (During my time in China, I almost always ordered only two dishes at any one meal. The food is so inexpensive that I could have ordered more, but I hate wasting things.) The show itself was enjoyable — gorgeous costumes and makeup, incredible staging and theatricality, a pleasing variety of performances, and some compelling musical pieces, including a memorable performance using a traditional instrument that the announcer said is rarely played today and that I had never seen or heard before. I’m glad I went.

Wednesday 19 May — 4th full day in Xi’an, then overnight train

After preparing for the day and leaving my suitcase at the desk, I walked to Ba Xian An, the Temple of the Eight Immortals. Just outside is a small flea/“antiquities” market where the majority of buyers seemed to be Chinese and where I was largely ignored — quite in contrast to the vast majority of market areas through which I walked on this trip, where it sometimes seemed that every vendor called out for my attention. Within the temple, I took particular note of several carvings and paintings and a small, pleasant garden to the rear.

From there, I headed to the Great Mosque. A gate with impressive dougong, an interesting pagoda-like minaret, some wonderful old trees, and numerous pleasant corners are some of the things that made the Great Mosque well worth seeing IMO. As I had found at the Ox Street Mosque in Beijing, the feel was distinctly Chinese, but there were some elements that reveal Arabian influences. After a leisurely visit, I walked quickly through the surrounding market stalls, through the now day-lit Night Market area, along several busy streets, and through an area filled with shops and stands selling arts and crafts.

My destination was the Beilin Museum / Forest of Stelae. This museum holds an extensive collection of stelae — a sort of library of stone books. Given that I can’t read Chinese script, I passed through much of it fairly quickly, stopping only to admire a few stelae with particularly lovely drawings or calligraphy and to appreciate the many Chinese who were there to see these priceless legacies of their history. The museum also has an impressive collection of statues and some lovely courtyards.

From there, I walked to and around the Yongning Gate to begin my visit to the City Wall. As I was exploring the gate itself, with its impressive views, an English announcement indicated that there would soon be a free performance of military maneuvers and drums in the interior courtyard. I found a parapet and soon the performers arrived. The first drum beat set off every car alarm in the area (and there were quite a few!), and the “military maneuvers” were about as polished as an American high school marching band’s first few practices, but the drum performance was engaging. It was an unexpected and fun diversion!

One of the “golf carts” that circles the wall was about to leave and had a spare seat - why not? I quickly bought a ticket and got on board. The ride took a bit more than an hour, counting stops to walk around at the main gates. I’m glad I spent the time here, but admit that I was not nearly as enthralled with my time atop the city wall as many posters on this board seem to have been. Maybe the difference is that I didn’t bike around it, as so many do.

I descended and hailed a taxi for the Big Goose Pagoda / Dacien Si. Traffic seemed even worse than usual. Have I mentioned how incredibly busy Xi’an’s roadways are? Or how chaotic the traffic seems to someone who doesn’t know the local rules or norms? Or how frightening it can be to cross a street there? In any event, it took a while to get there. I paid the taxi driver, spotted the ticket window, and was literally less than 2 yards from it when the clerk shut the grille. I moved to the counter just in case, but she left without a second glance. I don’t know if she saw me, but even if she did, I can’t blame her — I wouldn’t be surprised if at least one tourist shows up every day just as she is about to leave, pleading to be allowed in.

I took a few moments to admire the gate of the temple and then walked around the promenade and park-like area to the south and west of the temple. With occasional glimpses of the Big Goose Pagoda, scattered clusters of modern sculpture (some quite humorous), and lots of people strolling around, it was quite pleasant. To the north is a vast fountain with a series of pools descending a gentle slope. I spent a few moments admiring the scene from the top. My goal was to see a water show here a little later in the evening, so I began to explore the area to find a suitable dinner. I selected a dumpling restaurant, where my shrimp with bamboo shoots in a nearly translucent dumpling were so delicious that I ordered a 2nd batch rather than a different type.

Wanting to be sure to get a good viewing spot, I soon walked across the plaza in anticipation of the Fountain and Light Show and got a seat on the edge of the fountain. What a fun show! With a mix of western and eastern music and a delightful variety of nicely lit and playfully choreographed fountains, this event was well-attended by an audience of all ages. One of the best things about the show was watching the many children who were there, wide-eyed and laughing and thoroughly enjoying themselves (as was I). It lasted about 20 minutes, as I recall. Saying my farewells to Xi'an, I took a taxi back to my hotel, retrieved my suitcase, found another taxi (with some difficulty), and reached the train station in plenty of time for my overnight train to Pingyao.

Biking the city wall was a highlight of our trip. The ancient bikes, the solitude (for once in China), the views. Oh well. The food in the Muslim Quarter looked good to us as well. But we were too nervous to eat much street food unfortunately.

colduphere, I too am nervous about street food, but the place I went to in the Muslim quarter was a full scale restaurant -- three floors in fact -- inside.
Not much nervousness there.

kja, I know what you mean about ordering two dishes, but not wanting to waste much. Of all the things I'm finding on this trip that I miss the most by traveling alone (other than missing my life partner sometimes more than I can stand) is that Chinese food is meant to be shared -- and it's difficult ordering for just one. A few times, someone has been surprised that I was only ordering one dish when I really wasn't very hungry and invariably they will say, "That one very small" encouraging me to order a second dish which I do, then both come out looking like they could satisfy a crowd.

I didn't worry too much about street food in China - it was always cooked in front of me in very hot oil. But I definitely avoided it in India!

Do agree about the problems of eating solo in China . Sometimes I'll just decide that I want to try multiple dishes regardless, but I do feel bad about wasting food.

It's got to the point in larger cities on the tourist conga line that it has to be assumed that anyone one who approaches you with good English and offering to be helpful is going to be practising the language student scam, the tea ceremony scam, or the art exhibition scam, and there has to be a general warning to treat friendly English-speaking people with caution.

So it is pleasant to see repeated accounts that off the tourist conga line (which can include, for instance, just turning off main streets even in Beijing or taking Chinese rather than foreigner-targeting one-day tours), and even sometimes on it, helpfulness not in any way connected to your wallet can be found. The experience of travelling even slightly off the usual routes discussed here can be profoundly different, and small-town and rural China, where foreigners are rarely seen, can be a very welcoming and friendly environment, whether or not there's a word of language in common.

Peter N-H

Kja, thanks so much for a beautifully written and detailed account of a fascinating trip! I'm not sure if you ever visit the Travel Tips section of the forums (not many people do!) but there's an ongoing list of solo travel reports there and I'd love to see this added on. If you care to, here's the link: http://www.fodors.com/community/trav...collection.cfm

I think it's become kind of a mission with me to make sure people know how rewarding it can be to travel alone and independently!

Colduphere – I’m glad you enjoyed biking Xi’an’s city wall, and I can certainly understand that some solitude can be quite precious after a while in China! And there were some great views from up there.

NeoPatrick – I hope you did find some good meals on your journey. I remember that you recommended the Grotta Palazzese to me (I’m so glad you did!), so I know you know a good restaurant when you see it! And I hope you are finding ways to make your journey a testament to the memory of your life partner, but I’m sure there have been some very difficult moments.

Thursdaysd – I had to laugh when I read your comment about eating solo in China – you actually responded to a pre-trip question I had about that, and gave me confidence that it would be entirely manageable! (As it was.)

PeterN_H – I found so many instances of “helpfulness not in any way connected to my wallet” that the kindness of the Chinese people I encountered is among my most enduring memories of this trip. There are a few priceless examples in today’s installment on Pingyao. My sense was that people were both intrigued and pleased that a solo Western woman would make the effort to visit the places where they live or that they treasure, especially if many tourists skip those places, and that they sincerely wanted me to enjoy my journey and have a good experience in their country. Many, many people helped make that happen!

Amy – Thanks for letting me now about that thread on solo travel, and thanks for your praise! I’ve added a link to this report on that thread. I know it isn’t for everyone, but I find it amazingly rewarding to be able to travel alone and independently!


Installment 6:
Pingyao

The Xi’an train station had a separate lounge for those with soft-sleeper tickets, and that - in combination with early access to the platform - made boarding easier than it was for the other trains I took. I was soon on board my overnight train for Pingyao, ready for bed, and asleep in my comfortable lower bunk.

Once in Pingyao, I hired a pedicab to take me to my target lodging, Yide, a small courtyard house where - to my delight - a room was, in fact, available. But it wouldn’t be ready for me to see for another hour or so. The Yide’s pleasant dining area serves excellent coffee, so I enjoyed a cup or two while reviewing my notes and examining the map I had been given at the desk. It wasn’t long before the room was ready - what a lovely place! The sturdy wooden “period pieces” with which my small (but adequately proportioned) room was furnished showed some signs of wear and tear, but gave the room an appreciated air of authenticity. The Yide’s two simply adorned courtyards also held tremendous appeal. I was offered a discounted price and managed to bargain that down a bit. I was very well satisfied with the hotel, my room, and the cost. I showered and changed clothes and was soon ready to explore the city.

The main streets through the district with most of Pingyao’s museums are clearly geared to tourists, with lots of souvenir shops and restaurants. Notwithstanding, it is an interesting area, and I thoroughly enjoyed walking through it.

Many of the museums are small and share features common to the style of the courtyard houses of Pingyao’s Ming and Qing era development: An entry way; a small courtyard that is longer than it is wide between symmetrical one-story buildings; a “focal” point in the courtyard, often a stone basin that was probably originally intended to hold water to fight fire, but might now hold plants or whatever; a two-story building to the back, often with a balcony, facing the entrance; and decorative details in paint, stone, or wood. I found it interesting to see the how similar the various buildings I visited were, and it was fun to identify their unique features. The main thing that sets these small museums apart is their history and focus: I visited the Ri Sheng Chang (a former bank); Hui Wu Lin (a martial arts training hail); a museum that was, apparently, once home to the first armed escort agency in northern China; and a newspaper museum. I also visited one residential museum - the former residence of Lei Lutai. Each held a few interesting displays.

The City Tower offered a wonderful vantage point - from here, it is easy to see that the broad, tiled roofs of this city, with their gracefully uplifted and edges, define a rectangular grid, with some streets (like the one straddled by the City Tower) being much broader than others.

The Yamen, a former seat of government, is a fairly extensive complex including governmental and residential buildings. The prison was interesting, and I enjoyed a pair of gardens, one larger and more formal near the governmental buildings and one smaller and more intimate in the residential complex.

I also took some time to step away from the most touristed areas. I walked long, dusty, narrow alleys lined by tile-tipped walls of a uniformly drab color that were only rarely broken by a tiled awning over a locked wooden door. They seemed relatively untouched and were oddly fascinating.

The Confucian Temple and Daoist temple complex each held some impressive and interesting elements, and the differences between them were intriguing. Between these two temple complexes, I saw my first Nine Dragon Screen - not the largest or most colorful or best preserved one that I saw, but wonderful nonetheless, and a perfect one to see first.

I then walked part of the City Wall. I went 3/4 of the way around, starting at the south gate and ending at the west gate, stopping for lots of pictures. I thought the most interesting area was the southeast corner, so just doing that 1/4 of the walk might be a reasonable option. When I descended from the wall, I came upon a wonderful market - people had placed their produce in artfully arranged displays on white cloths in the center of a then closed-to-traffic street and some vendors were preparing and selling food. People seemed to be having fun as they visited with one another and haggled over prices.

At that point, I returned to my room to shower and freshen before dinner. After a few relaxing moments in “my” courtyard, I decided to try the Yide’s restaurant, one of the few places I ate a meal that was not overly bright. I ordered local braised beef (cooked with green peppers) and buckwheat noodles served with both tomato and vinegar sauces. Absolutely, thoroughly delicious!

Friday 21 May - Pingyao to Taiyuan

I slept VERY well - the traditional bed (kang) at the Yide was surprisingly comfortable! My plan for the day was to see the Wang Family Courtyard outside of Pingyao (I believe it’s in Jingsheng) and then travel on to Taiyuan. I readied for the day, checked out, and was taken to the bus station by a hotel employee, who also helped me buy my ticket to the Wang Family Courtyard and pointed me to the correct bus.

I was a bit surprised to find the bus nearly full – there was just one seat left. The people who were already on the bus were also surprised. We quickly established that I don’t speak Chinese. After much discussion among them, one gentleman stood, and explained – in English - that they were all together, and that they were concerned that I was on the wrong bus. He asked where I was going, I told him, and then he had a long discussion with the bus driver and ticket person. (All of the intercity buses I was on had a person who handled tickets in addition to a driver.) He then told me that the bus would, in fact, stop at the Wang Family Courtyard. Having established that, they insisted that I take the best seat on the bus – the front right seat. They were NOT going to take NO for an answer! The woman who had been in the first seat moved back one seat, the woman who had been in that seat moved, causing another move, etc. It was sort of like musical chairs as everyone rearranged themselves. It was very kind of them, and quite unnecessary. Then, when the bus pulled out about 15 minutes before it was scheduled to leave, I thought – oh my, I guess I am on the wrong bus! But they had assured me it would go where I wanted to go, so I settled in for an adventure.

After a while, we did in fact reach the town that holds the Wang Family Courtyard. Several people got off the bus to make sure I knew where it was. They also took great pains to make sure I knew that if I wanted to take that bus back to Pingyao, I would need to be at that exact corner at 12:30. Then they all waved as I walked away, and stayed there until we could no longer see each other. I felt like I'd been adopted! and by such kind people!

The Wang Family Courtyard is amazing, and amazingly extensive! Spreading upward along a hillside, there were a few “common” areas - including a lovely garden area - among the many concatenated courtyards. The courtyards were of a similar design and would have afforded their occupants with intimate settings (but not necessarily private ones - that would presumably have depended on how many residents occupied each courtyard). I think some of the oldest parts began as cave dwellings — the English signage referred to them as caves and the ceilings looked like they could have been carved out of the hillside. I spent several pleasant hours roaming around, noticing artful architectural details here and there and appreciating broader perspectives from vantage points on the surrounding walls.

By chance, the timing of my visit worked well if I was to catch that bus back to Pingyao, so I returned to the corner, reaching it by 12:15. I was quite an object of curiosity: several people stared at me, generally (but not always) from a bit of a distance and a few people tried to speak to me. One very young girl ran over to me and said, very clearly, “Hello. What is your name?” When I answered, her jaw dropped, her eyes became enormous, her eyebrows shot up, and she stared, agape, for a moment before running away. Five minutes later, she did it again, and then she did it a third time a little while after that. So cute! No one else who approached me spoke any English.

Although I had been told to be at that corner by 12:30, I wasn’t sure what time the bus was really supposed to be there. I figured I would wait until 12:45 or 1:00 and then, if the bus hadn’t come, I would return a different way (by taking a minibus to the town of Jiexiu and then a bus to Pingyao). More and more people gathered in the area as I waited and then they began to express concern that I must be lost. I tried to assure them that I was not, that I was waiting for a bus. More and more people came to see what was going on. Eventually, a teenage boy who spoke a little English was brought to me and everyone gathered closely around to hear what we said. By the time I explained, there must have been two dozen people pressed around me. I was ready to find the minibus, and so the young boy and another English-speaker who joined us around that time led me to the place where the minibuses stop, with the entire crowd of people walking behind us and others joining in to find out what was happening. I felt like a Pied Piper, with all these people trailing behind me! Then they wouldn’t let me on a minibus until they were sure there were others who were also going to Pingyao, and they ensured that those people (a group of three young ladies) would make sure I got to Pingyao safely. Then the dozens of people who had become involved in this effort to help me stood and waved as the minibus pulled out. That so many people came to my aid (no matter how unnecessarily) with such kindness and concern and helpful intent is one of my most treasured memories from this incredibly memorable trip. Wow!

The young ladies escorted me safely to Pingyao, where I retrieved my suitcase and took the next train to Taiyuan.

Installment 7:
Taiyuan

My target hotel was the decidedly tired - but clean, serviceable, and extremely affordable - east building of the Yingze Binguan. The staff of the east building spoke little English, but the staff of the west building spoke English very well, and they were available to me even though I was staying in the other building.

I showered and stopped at the east wing’s desk to confirm the directions to a nearby restaurant, Taiyuan Mianshiguan. A young woman insisted on walking me there! It was very close (and BTW, it is just north of Yingze Da Jie, not just south as indicated in one of my guidebooks). I thoroughly enjoyed my mao erduo (pasta shaped like tiny cats’ ears in a meat sauce). The pasta was cooked a bit more than I had expected, but was nonetheless very tasty. I also had a local vegetable dish, which featured spring onions and was wonderful. This place is not for those seeking haute cuisine or 1st class service, but if you want to sample extremely affordable local specialties in a friendly, unpretentious setting, it is worth considering IMO.

After dinner, I spent several hours arranging to hire a taxi to Wutai Shan. I hoped to visit two temples - Nanchan Si and Foguang Si – that are located between Taiyuan and Wutai Shan, and from what I’d been able to learn ahead of time, a taxi is about the only way to see them. First, I went to the west building of my hotel, where I asked an English-speaking receptionist to write out my requirements for a taxi for the day after the next. And then I flagged down taxi drivers to see if they were interested and if so, attempt to negotiate a price. The process proved quite a challenge for me, and I didn’t bargain very successfully. The cost was higher than I had hoped, but I really wanted to see these sites (which I believe are two of China’s oldest wooden temples), and at some point I had to decide whether to give up entirely or accept a higher price than I preferred. I decided to view this ride as a splurge. After nearly 3 hours, I found a driver who was willing to take me for a price I was willing to pay. The driver came into the hotel with me to finalize the agreement: I would pay my admission fee to the Wutai Shan, he would pay his, and he would also pay for any tolls, gas, etc. I had him write his name, taxi number, and phone number and, with the help of the English-speaking receptionist, confirmed all the particulars. With that, I went to my room and soon fell asleep.

Saturday 22 May -Talyuan

After a quick breakfast, I left my hotel in search of an ATM, and en route came across a flea market. It was packed, but if there was another westerner there, I didn’t see him/her. And quite in contrast to a most other markets I visited (excepting the flea market outside Ba Xian An in Xi’an), I was basically ignored - which was fine with me!

After a quick walk through the market, I found the ATM and took a taxi to the Shanxi Museum. I thought the collection here was remarkable. It was also very well displayed and, with the exception of the top floor (which held calligraphy and painting), there was good English signage. If there were any tour groups there that day, I don’t remember seeing them; instead, the other visitors were, I believe, Chinese people visiting on their own. There were no crowds, but there were young people sketching and people of all ages taking their time to appreciate what they were seeing. And if anyone was more curious about a solo western woman than the exhibits themselves, I never noticed. It was very pleasant!

The museum has a café that serves very good coffee. Bonus! While I was sipping it, I consulted my map to determine what bus to take to Jin Ci and, with the help of my pocket dictionary, confirmed the bus number and the location of a stop with the young man who was working at the café.

I soon set off and was walking down the road outside the museum when the young man from the café caught up with me: He had realized that there was another bus I could take, and wanted to let me know. Yet another example of the kindness of those I encountered!

I soon found a bus to Jin Ci. This temple was one of the most beautiful ones I saw on this trip! It had a delightful combination of lovely grounds (including a gorgeous plot of iris in full bloom and a charming man-made canal), a stunning temple (Oh! the dragon-wrapped columns!), and various other interesting buildings and nooks and crannies in its shady lower spaces or on the steep slopes to the far side. I could imagine enjoying a much longer stay than the 2 hours I had before closing.

I took a bus back to my hotel and freshened up before returning to Taiyuan Mianshiguan - the restaurant I had patronized the night before. This time, I ordered guoyou rou (pork “passed through oil”), liangfen (a large, cold, potato- flour noodle over vegetables), and a local vegetable dish (cucumber in vinegar and fresh ginger). The pork dish was quite good; I believe it had been very lightly breaded before being quickly fried with a few vegetables (a deep red leaf and some young green shoots). The liangfen was incredibly refreshing - I think it would be perfect on a hot night, although it didn’t mesh particularly well with the pork. The proprietress was intrigued by my listing of Taiyuan specialties; she borrowed it and carefully copied it by hand so that she would have it for future English-speaking guests.

A little later, as I was trying to fall asleep, I heard fireworks - something that happened several times during my trip, but only during the day. (That is, I had heard fireworks only during the day. I didn’t try to sleep during the day!) I quickly found that I could see them from my window, and although they didn’t last long they were enjoyable.


Installment 8:
Ride to Wutai Shan

Sunday 23 May -Taiyuan to Wutai Shan

Hoping that my taxi would be at the hotel as agreed at 8 a.m., I went to the lobby to check out a few minutes before then. I was delighted to see my driver, although I wondered why another man was also there. We soon set off, and after a few blocks, the driver with whom I had contracted exited, letting me know that the other man would my driver. (OMG, I had been subcontracted out! Did I need any further proof that I had agreed to too high a price?)

Using the document that I had used to hire the driver to begin with, I confirmed that my new driver knew what I expected. He didn’t speak English, but I had just enough Mandarin to ask whether he understood and whether he knew where Nanchan Si and Foguang Si were; he said he did. Off we went!

From what I had read, both temples are closer to Wutai Shan than to Taiyuan (if a bit off the direct route), but I wasn’t sure how long the trip would take. Estimates for the bus ride from Taiyuan to Wutai Shan in my guidebooks ranged from 4 to 5.5 hours; adding in delays due to construction (especially around Taiyuan), I figured I was in for a long ride. I found the scenery interesting, whether cultivated land or the shop-lined streets of towns or glimpses of distant mountains or switchbacks with breathtaking drops and vistas. Some areas were quite beautiful, and the weather was perfect. I was intrigued to see that the roads were almost all lined by lime-treated trees, including (after several hours) long stretches of lilacs in bloom. Wonderful!

Although I didn’t know how long it would take to reach Nanchan Si, when we reached the entrance to the park that encompasses Wutai Shan, I was quite certain that we had gone too far – way, WAY too far! (My guidebooks offer discrepant information about the distance, with estimates ranging from about 45 to 110 miles.) But nothing that I said or did convinced my driver to even ask anyone - he just kept saying he knew where they were. Because there are several entrances to the Wutai Shan area, I wondered whether the construction we had faced earlier had forced him to take a different route - maybe he did know.

Adding to my frustration, the driver insisted that I buy his ticket for admission into the park. I pointed to the written agreement I had with the original driver, which specified that the driver would pay for his admission; he showed me what I assume I was supposed to believe was all the money he had with him (which was not enough for the admission ticket). I paid for his ticket - but also made sure he watched as I recorded the payment as a deduction to the price for which I had contracted. I also showed the written instructions for my taxi to the ticket seller, and I tried to ask for directions. He and my driver had a long discussion; again, my driver indicated that he understood.

We finally reached Taihuai - the town in the heart of Wutai Shan - and my driver finally began to ask people for directions. He obviously didn’t believe the first few people he asked. To my great relief, he finally stopped at a hotel where there was, quite fortuitously, an English-speaking receptionist. It took several people and a very long discussion to convince him that the temples I wanted to see were outside the park. At long last, the English-speaking receptionist assured me that he now understood. Given the distances involved and the now relative lateness of the day, we agreed that we should go to Foguang Si (about 20 or 25 miles from Taihuai) first. It was not at all clear that we could reach Nanchan Si before it would close, and if we went there first, we would almost certainly be too late for Foguang Si. I asked the receptionist to confirm that he now knew where they were and how to get there. She asked, he answered, she told me “yes.”

If only that had been true!

We left the park (thankfully, he stopped to ensure that we could re-enter without paying again), descended the switchbacks into the surrounding flatlands, and then he stopped at just about every intersection to ask people - but it was still miles and miles away! Finally, someone convinced him that it was not nearby. He looked very surprised, questioned the speaker, and then slammed his hand on the hood of the car. He got back in and off we went.

I tried to relax, reminding myself that the situation was out of my control and I could choose to make the best of it or not. And in fact, it was an interesting journey. As we descended Wutai Shan, I saw a sandstorm crossing the plane below - a huge, angry-looking column of wind-whipped sand that caught us while we were in a town, and that was gone 5 or so minutes later. Fascinating!

Eventually, we reached Foguang Si. The courtyard was filled with lilacs in full bloom, scenting every corner of the grounds wonderfully. I admired the murals and statues in a hall to the side of the first courtyard and then climbed to the Eastern Great Hall - only to find that it was locked. Sigh. But at least I could admire the building itself, which was part of what I had hoped to do. It is quite large and has some unusual and very interesting and impressive brackets. Then someone came to open it for me - and I am SO glad he did! The interior also holds interesting architectural features, as well as some lovely statues and murals.

There was an English-speaking ticket-taker at the temple, and I asked if she knew how to get to Nanchan Si. She said she did, so I asked her to talk to my driver, which she did, but without apparent effect. My driver once again began driving very slowly, looking at every sign, and stopping at every intersection to ask people for directions. I repeatedly tried to tell him what I knew (we had miles and miles to go), but my attempts, whether spoken or presented visually with the help of my dictionary, met with utter failure. After the 4th or 5th stop to ask for directions, my driver re-entered the car, smacked the steering wheel, and said something that I think I’m glad I didn’t understand. He began driving at a speed that was appropriate to the posted limit.

At long last we reached Nanchan Si. As I had feared, it was closed by then. But luck was with me - someone (the groundskeeper or gatekeeper?) saw us and let us in! It was small, simple, and exquisitely proportioned - what a gem! My driver remarked that it was very small and seemed truly puzzled that I would have wanted so much to see it and was so enamored with it. He spoke with the gentleman who had let us in for a while, and apparently learned that it was very old. He still did not seem impressed.

Very glad that I had gotten to see both of these temples, it was time for the long drive back to Wutai Shan. I relaxed and enjoyed seeing the scenery again, this time with different lighting. I must admit that I began to become concerned about my driver - he had to have been tired after driving all day, and the switchbacks on the way into Wutai Shan required alertness. But he was a good, cautious driver, and we reached Taihuai without trouble.

My target lodging was the Yunfeng Hotel. I must admit that I thought it seriously overpriced for what I got, and I briefly considered going somewhere else (why hadn’t I gotten the name of the place with the English-speaking receptionist who had helped us earlier that day?), but I was just too tired to bother, and I really didn’t want to ask the driver to take me some place else! It met my needs, if not my preferences.

Once I decided to stay, I paid the driver. He protested vociferously, objecting because I had deducted the price of his admission to the park and because he had driven so much further than he planned. It was a bit awkward, particularly because he was ranting in Mandarin. But I kept pointing to the written agreement and stood firm. Once it was clear that I was not going to budge, he smiled, said he was going to stay in Taihuai that night (thank goodness!), and asked if I wanted to hire him for the next day. My answer was no, but I had to laugh at the way he switched from fierce “anger” to accommodating pleasantness. A useful lesson for someone with little experience in bargaining!

BTW, the receptionist told me that the driver was convinced that I could speak and understand Mandarin, even though I kept saying that I didn’t understand. His reasoning was apparently that the few things I could say, I said extremely well. While I was pleased that I could say a few things successfully, it was disconcerting to find that it threw him off.


Installment 9:
Wutai Shan

After that long and sometimes stressful taxi ride, I relaxed in my room for a while before heading out for dinner. I ended up at one of the nearby hotels that served taimo dunjikuai (local mushrooms stewed with chicken), one of the dishes on my list of local specialties. I can see why my guidebooks praised the mushrooms - very tasty!

Monday 24 May — Wutai Shan

My hotel was about 2 miles south of the heart of Taihuai, right by a stop where one can catch a free bus. The first thing I did was to go to the CITS office, where I confirmed that the only way to get to the Hanging Temple on my way to Datong would be to hire a taxi. (Although the bus passes the Hanging Temple, there probably wouldn’t be a place for me to leave my suitcase and it might have proven difficult for me to get another bus to take me on to Datong.) I tried to negotiate a price with a few taxi drivers, but none of them were willing to consider the amount I was willing to pay. I soon concluded that I didn’t have the energy to continue trying, and even if I did, I wasn’t likely to save enough time to make it worth the cost. So, I made sure I knew when and where to catch the bus the next morning and began exploring Wutai Shan.

I visited Tayuan Si, where I was entertained by a group of youngsters who made sure they spun every one of the revolving sutras that surround the pagoda and where I also admired several impressive interiors; Xiantong Si, where I strolled through some lovely courtyards and admired a sundial before climbing to the unique Bronze Hall; and Luohou Si, where I found lots of interesting angles from which to take pictures and glimpsed the Buddha positioned within the petals of a large lotus blossom of painted wood. There were a number of tourists around, but not too many; most were Chinese, although I did see a few other Westerners. There were quite a few visiting monks, wearing quite an array of colors – gold, red, grey, black, brown. . . .

It was a beautiful day, so I crossed a small stream to reach the chair lift to Dailou Terrace. Partway up, I heard a bird call, and as the sound faded away, I thought - OMG, it’s quiet! It may well be that I experienced other quiet moments in China, but not many! Just about everywhere I went, at just about any time of day, I could hear construction work or traffic or music or people or whatever. Even here, there were some sounds from the cable machinery, but it was a very welcome respite from the constant noise. The sounds began again at the top, where other visitors spoke to each other and vendors called out to them.

The terrace affords some wonderful views of Taihuai and the peaks surrounding it, and the air felt much cleaner than anywhere else I visited in China. In contrast to the stream of tourists on the terrace, the temple behind the terrace was very peaceful. While I was at that temple, I saw a number of monks, but only one other tourist - a young Chinese woman who spoke English. She was fascinated that I had chosen to travel to Wutai Shan by myself. I asked where she was from - Yunnan. We shared a laugh when I pointed out that she was also traveling by herself a long way from home!

After a while, I took the chair lift back to Taihuai. There, I walked around the small area with shops and restaurants, spent a few pleasant moments by the Wanfo Pavillion and its pond, found a free internet connection at one of the hotels south of town, and spent some pleasant moments by a road-side stream.

After freshening up for dinner, I took the bus back to the heart of town to find a restaurant that one of my guidebooks recommended for its local dishes, Furen Ju Jiulou. If it still exists, I couldn’t find it, so I decided to splurge a bit on dinner by going to the Yinhai Shanzhuang Canting. This restaurant is in a hotel near where I was staying, so I went to the nearest bus stop. No bus. Apparently, they stop running after a certain time. The only taxi driver I saw wanted much more than I thought the trip worth, so I opted instead to enjoy a long walk in the comfortable coolness of early evening.

Once at the restaurant, I ordered what I believed to be pheasant stew and a dish of wild greens. What I got was a cup of pheasant soup and a small plate of chopped herbs with vinegar. By the time I realized I hadn’t ordered a “real” meal, it was too late to order something more substantial. Oops! At least both dishes were delicious.

I'm really enjoying this! Not only is it well written, I'm so impressed with your trip (and that you can manage any Mandarin at all - I simply can't distinguish the tones). Plus we have more ammunition for the "can you do it yourself" argument.

I can confirm that these two temples can be visited by minibus, hopping off at (well-marked when I did this) turnings, and taking one of the waiting taxis to get to each temple. Moving on involves simply waiting at the roadside and flagging down buses that pass. It requires having only a small amount of luggage, however, if you're doing this en route between the two (as I also did).

The communication problems here probably stem from the fact that while Wutai Shan is a massive tourist destination, almost no one goes to the two temples mentioned. Few people (as discussed earlier) pay much attention to anything not in their immediate orbit or related to daily needs, so few have heard of them. Furthermore some care is needed when asking third parties to write down the characters since everyone who thinks they know what you want will mistake famous Nanshan Si at Wutai Shan for less-famous Nanchan Si well before it.

There will be a tendency to presume that you aren't saying it properly before it will be considered that you might be talking about somewhere else. It's a consequence of the innumerable homophones in Mandarin that it is difficult to say anything surprising in it. The subject under discussion must be clearly established, and then you go on to say something about it. Non sequiturs are also a problem, particularly for foreigners, and in general when what is heard isn't what's expected, the assumption will be the problem lies with you and the native speakers know best.

I'm glad you at least got to these two, though, since very few people get to see original Tang temple buildings, and the solidity of the single and very chunky bracket sets, mostly only at the top of columns and not in between, the low pitch of the roofs and the 'owl's tails' do tend to make you think that it has been all downhill with Chinese architecture since, especially since in both cases single Tang halls stand next to those of later date. Amongst Chinese architects and architectural historians the two halls are famous since they were described, drawn, and catalogued by their doyen, Liang Sicheng, the man who advised Mao to preserve the heart and city walls of ancient Beijing, and was ignored. There's more of similar antiquity in Datong (Shanxi is well stocked with truly ancient buildings, probably because, except during its brief heyday as a grain and banking centre, and certainly in modern times, it has been too wretchedly poor for politically-motivated campaigns of destruction to get going.) I hope we're going to discover you saw that, too.

Peter N-H

great trip report! I am considering China for my next destination.

Thursdaysd – Once again, thanks so much for your kind words! I fear that I’ve been (and will continue to be) far too long-winded, so I appreciate hearing that you are enjoying my report. And let me be clear – I managed to learn very little Mandarin, really just the pleasantries and some basic words and phrases. A friend had lent me her Pimsleur CDs and several friends who have lived in China were kind enough to help me with some words. The biggest benefit was probably not any actual ability to communicate, but rather my hope that people would know that I had at least made an effort to try to do so.

PeterN_H – Your proposed explanation for the communication difficulties makes a lot of sense. I had been worried that people would confuse Nanchan Si with Nanshan Si, and had been careful to ensure that the characters on the written agreement with the taxi driver were correct, but the driver (and others) could easily have assumed that the characters were incorrect, particularly since the driver was obviously not familiar with Nanchan Si. But despite the problems, I DID get to see those two wonderful temples and I had quite an adventure in doing so! As you suspected, I saw some other magnificent and ancient structures in and around Datong, and had wondered how so many had escaped destruction in this part of the country – thanks for the explanation!

Krgystn – I’m glad you’re enjoying my report! If you choose to go to China, I think you will come away with many wonderful memories.


Installment 10:
Datong

Tuesday 25 May - Wutai Shan to Datong

I caught an early morning bus to Datong, and again found the scenery intriguing as we traveled through mountains and then onto a broad plain.

On the way, I decided to try a different hotel than I had originally planned so that I would be closer to the heart of the city. I arrived, found a metered taxi, and showed him the name for my newly selected hotel - the Yuzeyuan. But when the driver stopped, we were in front of the Yungang International Hotel. Its name had been just below the one I had selected on the list I had shown the driver, so I could understand the error. It was actually my new 2nd choice hotel, but it looked pricey, so I still wanted to go to the Yuzeyuan. A staff member helped identify the address and gave my driver directions; it was only a few blocks away, but many roads were closed due to construction. We finally reached the Yuzeyuan’s address, only to find that it was gone. Everything on the street for several blocks was in piles of rubble! With many sincere apologies, I asked my driver to return to the Yungang International Hotel. It was much less expensive than it looks: With a discount, it was one of the least expensive hotels I stayed in over the course of my trip, and it was also one of the most accommodating. And it was extremely well located.

My aim for the afternoon was to visit the Yungang Grottoes. When I checked with the hotel staff, they told me that the normal bus had been cancelled due to road construction. I decided to check with the CITS office to see if they were going there that afternoon, but it was closed when I reached it. So I once again decided to try to hire a taxi. This time, I managed to get a bidding war going, and was reasonably satisfied with the final agreement.

The Yungang Grottoes were incredible! I had been impressed with the Longmen Grottoes; IMHO these were even more amazing! Caves 4 and 5 are the crown jewels here, and I was glad that I visited them last (as recommended in some guidebooks). It really is an astounding place.

Upon returning to Datong, I went straight to the CITS office to see if I could join a tour of the Wooden Pagoda (Muta) and Hanging Temple the next day. I got there only minutes before it closed, and Mr. Gao informed me that no one else had signed up for that tour. He suggested that I could hire a car, but the price was fairly high. I didn’t want to do that because I knew I could get to them by public transportation; I just didn’t know if I could get to both in the same day. He agreed to call me in the morning if anyone else signed up, but since he was about to close, I wasn’t optimistic.

While I considered my options, I went to the Nine Dragon Screen. Set in a protected courtyard that provided a bit of a respite from the chaos of the surrounding streets, it is impressive. I believe it is the longest such screen in China. I enjoyed sitting on a tree-shaded bench as a few people (not too many!) came in to admire it.

I then walked around town for a while. The Drum Tower is at an intersection where uniformed officers stand on step-stools to direct traffic - something I’d seen in many pictures of China from years ago, but which I saw no where else on my trip - fascinating! The area was very dusty and dirty because a major street and the extensive Huayuan Temple were under reconstruction. And Datong is the most polluted city I visited; I can’t imagine living there.

By the time I returned to my hotel, I was tired and dirty and desperately in need of a shower. I stopped at the desk first to ask them to confirm that my target restaurant was open late. It was! So, after a long, welcome shower, I hailed a metered taxi to take me to Laozi Hao Hotpot. My driver called them for directions, and when we got to the right area, which was a street with a lot of restaurants, he called them again. After a while, he pointed to a place and I started to get out, but then he said no; I got back in. He drove up and down the street, pointed to another place and I started to get out, but again, he stopped me. He called the restaurant again, drove a bit further, pointed to a place, and this time, nodded as I waved good-bye. But the place he pointed out was not the right one, and if it was anywhere in the area, I couldn’t find it! It was somewhat reassuring to know that a Chinese-speaking taxi driver also had trouble finding the place. Unfortunately, though, none of the many restaurants on the street were admitting new patrons by that time. I walked around until I was sure there was no where that I could eat, and then returned to my hotel.

The hotel kitchen that is open latest - the one for their lounge - had just closed. I hadn’t eaten at all that day, and had only had small meal the night before, so I was hungry! I asked the staff at the desk if they knew where I could get something to eat, and was immediately ushered into the lounge and given a menu. I tried to find the thing that would be easiest for them, and so ordered the only Western food I ate during my time in China - a ham and cheese sandwich. The menu said “grilled,” but I tried to tell them that I would be happy if they served it cold. It seems that my effort was unsuccessful - I was soon presented with a delicious and perfectly grilled sandwich. They must have had to fire up the grill again! How accommodating!

Wednesday 26 May - Datong

I was awakened at about 7:20 a.m. by Mr.Gao from the CITS office - he had found a couple who wanted to take the tour to the Wooden Pagoda and Hanging Temple that day! Bonus! My travel companions were a delightful English-speaking Dutch couple who wanted to take their time seeing these places, as did I. Our fee - 100 yuan each - covered a car and driver; none of us felt the need for a guide.

Muta, which is described in some guidebooks as China’s (or even the world’s) oldest and/or tallest wooden pagoda, is truly remarkable! The brackets were fascinating, and it was mind-boggling to see this place, knowing that no nails were used in its construction. (Some have been used in subsequent repairs.) We spent quite a while admiring it from outside and in, and for most of the time, the three of us were the only people there. Some of the interior space is not open to the public, but the Buddha and paintings on the lowest level and the statues on the top level could be seen. Amazing place!

My companions treated my driver to a light lunch while I read, and then we all traveled to Xuankong Si - the Hanging Temple. It is just as unbelievable in person as it is in almost every picture of it I’d seen! I had read that the structural supports are vertical and drilled into the cliffs; whether true or not, I never felt any danger while on the temples’ narrow (VERY narrow) walkways. There were other tourists there while we were, but not very many, so it was easy take our time to see this incredible temple.

After the long drive back to Datong, I walked to Shanhua Si, passing a nearby remnant of Datong’s city wall. The courtyard in front of the temple, which holds a five dragon screen, was quite lively, with at least two performing groups and various clusters of people talking or playing cards or people-watching. The temple held some remarkable statues; I particularly remember the fierce temple guardians in the main gate and a set of five Buddhas in Daxiongbao Hall. That hall is another magnificent and very old, very large building with fascinating architectural features. Photography is not allowed, as I learned when I tried to take a picture after ensuring there were no posted prohibitions in the particular hall that I was then visiting. (There were signs in other buildings.) A woman ran, shouting, to stop me, pointing to the security camera that had alerted her. So a minor peeve: If photography is prohibited, post a sign! With the exception of that interruption, this temple seemed very serene to me, and not only because there were few other people around.

When the temple closed, I walked to Mujia Zhai, a restaurant one of my guidebooks recommended for local hotpot. I found it easily, and was greeted with what seemed a combination of astonishment that a solo Western woman would enter their doors and a sincere commitment to ensure that I was made to feel welcome. No one spoke more than a few words of English, but it seemed that all available staff wanted to help me. They had the ingredients that a different guidebook recommended for hotpot in Datong - lamb meatballs, potato, Chinese cabbage, a sesame sauce. I had to make a few other choices, like which broth and what side dishes; the staff found ways to help me. Soon, an array of small dishes arrived - bean sprouts with red bell pepper; green beans; celery with tofu; and apple with zucchini. Each dish was beautifully presented and delightfully fresh. This was my first hotpot, and my young server made it seem perfectly normal for her to begin the cooking process so that I could see what to do. And it was absolutely wonderful! This was one of the best meals I had in China, and one of the few meals that I couldn’t finish because there was simply too much food.

We are off to China for the month of October (4 weeks in total) and like you are doing it totally on our own. Your report covers several areas we have also planned to see (Datong, Pingyao, Xian and Beijing). I am truly enjoying your report and learning lots! Thanks for posting and providing such entertaining details.

Question -- what did you pay for a taxi to Yungang grottoes as well as the Hanging Monastery and Wooden Pagoda? We have one whole day to see the sights around Datong (staying overnight and taking the train to Pingyao the next day). We know it will be a full day!

What a great trip you have had!

It's not really a question of a 'full day'. The sights around Datong are too widely spread to make seeing them all in one day feasible, unless perhaps pointlessly brief visits are made, and not with any chance of seeing the ancient temples in the city itself, too. The Yungang Caves can be reached by ordinary public bus, by the way, although obviously a taxi is better if you're in a rush. The CITS one-day tours are caves and temple or caves and pagoda, and convenient so long as you don't shop.

Purchasing train tickets out of Datong has historically been difficult thanks to collusion between CITS and the railway station (although things might possibly have improved, you never know), and trying to make a plan that involves metronomic precision when travelling in China is almost always a mistake. Never put yourself in a position in which catching a particular rail or air service is crucial to your plans.

Only two of the five services between Datong and Pingyao actually start in Datong and will thus have a significant quantity of seats available. Of these one starts at 16.40 and arrives at 00.06, rather impractical, and the other at 07.45 and arrives at 14.39. The only overnight train with a half-decent timing, the 2453 at 23.04, arriving 06.27, doesn't start at Datong and quite possibly only six soft sleeper berths or so will be on sale, or as few as two (the most shown available over the next few days). There's always the chance of an upgrade after boarding if there are other unsold berths, and there's a large allocation of hard sleepers if you're happy with those, but even those are sold out for the next couple of days.

Peter N-H