kathie---i wonder if they will be serving that smokey eggplant salad in the 'clink' in cambridge....??

Must confess that lately I have been spending time on another website and have only read the portion about your gastrointestinal issues. But it is very well written and you needn't worry about any penalties.

Transit lounge at the vancouver airport. Cathay pacific flights went well. The one notable thing is that on the HK-V leg, Beth was reduced to watching a full-length cartoon. I've never seen her do this before.

There were many open seats and with our adjoining aisle seats, we had plenty of room. The food was OK.

One tricky thing was that in HK, there was one last security check point just for our plane. They took the water we had purchased after clearing normal security. This was similar to what Thai Air did last year. the difference was that Thai Air provided everyone with a bottle of water on the plane. Not so with CP. We got thirsty

Back home.

The third day in LPThere are many interesting stores along this road. Not quite as tourist oriented as the main drag. We went into a very nice art gallery. the artist had some nice pictures as well as some very interesting tiles. Ko Noi was another interesting shop along this road.

Wandered some more. Towards the end, we went into the Apsara Hotel. Took a look at a room, very nice. Talked to the manager. he said, it had been a guest house until 2004 and then rehabbed. he also said they were building an annex on the other side of the Nan Kham. It will have suites.

Welcome home. I hereby relinquish my penalty assessing responsibilities back to you. Looking forward to seeing your "real" trip report.

We wandered down ro the tip of the penisula and went into thw wat called the wat of the Roayal City. It is very pleasant. There's a hearse in one of the out buildings that contains several small stupa-like structures.

For luch, we returned to the Apsara. Very nice River weed and chicken with cashews. We were thoe only customers.

We went up and made dinner reservations at the 3 Nagas and read the aclaim in the Amand Hesser review in the NYT.

More wandering and we got a wonderful 90 minute massage at the Spa Garden. Not as much twisting and turning as Thai massage, but very good. Tuk tuk back to the MS.

Up early here, jet lag as normal.

After a rest back at the MS, we took a tuk tuk to the 3 Nagas. We followed Amanda Hesser's suggestions. The article was posted on the wall. We were disappointed. this was our only mediocre meal in LP. The food was all right, but not exceptional. The tastes were too melded. Nothing was extraordinary. We were very disappointed. Tuk tuk back to the MS.

Our last morning in LP, we decided to wander some more along the Nan Kham Road. We bought a tile from the artist. Kop Noi had some amusing bamboo straws, but we passed. We were a little worried about the Bnagkok Air weight restrictions.

We went to La Boutique, next to the Hmong market on the main drag. The shopkeeper was playing Laotian Rap music. He told us about some of the musicians and where they were playing that night. Unfortunately, we were leaving.

The day before on our walk, I had stopped at a Travel agent and arranged an airport trasfer for $7. The MS charges $25. The pick up went smoothly.

At the airport, our flight was the only one. At one point, they came and got everyone, moved us through immigration checking off our names. When we had all cleared, they loaded the plane and took off early. Not exactly like Logan Airport in Boston.

Smooth flight back to BKK. AAC Limo sent the same driver as before. He generally knew the way back into town, but got off at Rama IV, so our trip took an extra 1/2-3/4 hour sitting in unnecessary traffic.

Back to the ROS.

Dinner at the Gallery Cafe. Beth has become addicted to the Rice crackers with Shrimp and Pork sauce. Returned to hotel and got laundry organized for the next day.

BTW, they are doing some construction on the road to the left of the ROS entrance. Several of the stores and several laundry outlets are gone. there's still a place to get laundry done up closer to the New Road.

The next day, we set out for the Jim Thompson outlet. Shuttle to skytrain, BTS to On Nut and we walked to the outlet. It's not a great walk, but doable. The weather was unbelievable, 77 degrees with a gentle breeze. Unlike any BKK weather we ever experienced.

The outlet actually had some shirts that fit me. Their XL's are very roomy. Bought one and Beth stocked up on various items. No cab would take us to central world, so we walked back to the On Nut stop and took the BTS. Easy.

We were hungry so we went to the food court in Central World. Very good. we were the only farangs in the entire place. It was jammed with Thais on their lunch break.

We then went to the photo exhibit in Zen which is connected to CW. There is a bunch of construction on the walk through and there was the usual chemical construction smell. Unpleasant. I did notice that there was a Nobu restaurant in Zen.

The photo exhibit was spectacular. 55 photographers spent nine daqys in Thailand. They were spead out over the netire country. There were at least 30 absolutely spectacular photos. the exhibit was amazing. We even bought the book. If Bob is semi-pleasant at dinner on Saturday, we'll let him look at a few pages.

What did you pay for the shirt- you know the drill- details please! Did you have to bargain them down?

Andy, did you hear any rumors about what they are building in the block next to the ROS? When we walked by, we happened to see through one of the demolished buildings, and the whole center of the block has been demolished. We speculated that it would be condos.

kathie---with any luck it is a new ROS...

Bill-no bargaining at the outlet. Prices are already reduced. i think I paid 800 Baht for a very nice cotton print shirt.

Kathy-no idea. I assume it's residential.

Bob-how could they improve on perfection?

Back to the ROS by taxi. Dinner at Harmonique. Crab with yellow curry was as good as ever. Once again, service was peculiar. Always the case, but the food is worth it.

On the walk beack, four tuk tuk drivers offered to give us a ride.

We stopped in at an antique shop near the ROS. They have several great six monk arrangements and some other wonderful pieces. Very nice. better than much of the stuff in River City.

is that antique shop the one just to the left of the portugese embassy gate??

Yes Bob, that is the one. It's hours are irregular, but it's definitely worth a peek.

Day with Tong

After several E-mails trying to decide what to do with Tong, I eventually decided to just let her plan the whole day. She knew what we had seen and was experienced in providing a good day for her clients, so I just went with the flow.

Picked up at 6:15 a.m. for the ride to the Floating Market. I had been sceptical because we had done this before and not been impressed. Again, I was just trusting Tong's judgement. We got there around 7:45 and had a short walk to a paddle boat with a driver. Paid 400 Baht to the dispatcher.

This ride in the boat was absolyuely super. The market was not yet crowded, so we glided through the various vendors. Tong would stop at one or another and buy foodstuffs. This became a delicious breakfast. We also took a detour and paddled past the main market and through some canals that were nearly deserted. It was really interesting. It completely changed my impression of the Flaoting Market. I had thought it was a waste of time. I now think it's a fun way to spend the early morning, especially when combined with another destination out that way, e.g., River Kwai, Tiger Temple.

After disembarking, we met Tom, another member of Tong's Team. He also had taken some clients to the FM.

From the FM, we had a 1 3/4 hour ride to the Tiger Temple. Tong was very engaging throughout the ride. It was like travelling with a friend (or what I would imgagine such travel would be like if I had any friends). The time passed relatively quickly. Near the end we went through the town of Kachanaburi. They were setting up for a festival. Near the end of the ride, Tong went into guide mode and described at length the origin of the Tiger temple. She was adamant that the tigers were not drugged.

Arriving at the TT, you pay the entrance fee and begin a walk up a slight incline. There are various goats, water buffalo and boars ( I did not see Bob) wandering near the path. One goat in particular followed Tong closely, until she provided a piece of fruit she had purchased at the FM.

One arrives at the central tiger spot. There are several Tiger cubs lounging and gently playing with staff members. Guests are encouraged to pet the tigers and sit with the lounging ones. There was one full grown tiger who was teathered with achain. He was very calm. This went on for quite a while.

Eventually, the guets were herded into a pen and then the grown tigers were walked from their cages/habitats ( they are building some open habitats for the tigers to replace the cages. One is in place, another is under construction). The guests then lined up to walk with the tigers and get pictures taken by staff with our own cameras. There was specific instruction on how and where to walk. Very controlled, but very neat. The tigers did not seem scared of me.

The walk ended in a canyon where the tigers were teathered to various spots. They seemed very relaxed. The gusts then lined up and got to approach the tigers individually. A staff member would hold your hand and specifically direct you where to walk and where to sit. Other staff members would take scads of pictures. It was very non-threatening.

After the tigers, Tong took us up to see her favorite a bear named Bam Bam. She got one of the staff members to let us in the cage and we spent much time with Bam Bam. Tong had brought much food to give and BB was delighted.

BTW, at the Tiger Temple, we met Lauren (screen name Laurencarl) who was a guest of Nui, another member of Tong's Team. Lauren was travelling with some friends, but they had decided to not go on the day trip. Lauren was very pleasant and fun. Of course, she's a fodorite. The Bam Bam visit was attended by Lauren, Beth and me. No other tourists were anywhere near.

Finished at the Tiger Temple and we were off to the forest orphanage. Nui, Lauren's guide did not know the way there, so she followed Tong.

More later.

So far, your day with Tong to the FM & TT with the special visit with BB was like the wonderful AM we spent with her. Isn't it funny how she gets to shift from her friend mode to tour guide?

BTW, got word that it was her Bday yesterday the 4th. Sent her greetings.

"The tigers did not seem scared of me" - FYI, tigers are not afraid of pandas, they are only afraid of lawyers!

Hey Gpanda! Glad you had such a great time, albeit with one "episode".

I have excerpted your LP report tidbits (as much as I would love to read Bob's unedited acerbic comments again while wandering the streets of LP :-) ) as we are taking off for our LP, Vietnam, Angkor, Bangkok three week trip a week from today! We are traveling JFK-BKK Thai air business class and it sounds as if that was the right decision.

As ususal, the Fodors crowd has been INVALUABLE with tips and suggestions with good humor and good wishes.

My Fodors Boston pals Bob and Karen have been astoundingly generous in their assistance. Lunch on me when I return Bob and Karen :-)

I will be posting both a trip report and pictures upon my return as well as posting some comments while traveling.

Later....

patricia---you are going to have such fun....anxious to hear all about it...lunch is a date!!

Gpanda (and others) -- I am having tong for 3 days. One day we will go to the fishing village; one day to Kanchanaburi and the orphanage and one day to the floating market and the vineyard with a few other stops along the way. I'm trying to avoid the 12 hour days. Question is -- tiger temple. I am a real animal lover and won't even go to zoos because they upset me so I have avoided this. Am I making a mistake?

i think if you look at it positively as a rescue effort and a rehabilitive effort you will be pleased.....

but of course it really is just another zoo...so if you can't get by that then i might skip it...

makes sense to combine tigers and kantchuburi doesn't it....??

tong's making merit and releasing fish in bkk is fun also...

Gloria, are you doing the overnight tour with Ting or is it 3 different days? Whenever I talk to her she always tells me about how much fun the overnight trips are. I guess she is taking people to stay overnight at Reeds house on stilts.

no not doing overnight. I don't want to have to pack and unpack -- nor do I want to pay for a night at the oriental that I don't use. Plus I'm not sure I want to rough it any longer -- been there and done that in my younger years but now I like my creature comforts.

After the Tiger Temple, we drove for another 1 1/2 hours to get to a forest orphanage. It's past Kachanaburi, through which one drives. Tong's car was followed by the car containing Laurencarl and Nui. They were going to the orphanage as well and Nui had never been there and did not know the way.

The orphanage was very moving. There are about 120 kids. I was my childish self and played with the kids. We served them Ice cream and watched them swim in the River Kwai. They were all in high spirits. We toured the grounds and classroom with a bunch of kids, who were proud of their home.

Visiting an orphanage as we did with Tong last year as well is both uplifting and slightly troubling. It is great to see kids being cared for, but difficult to realize the great need. We think it's an important part of our trip.

Laurencarl and Nui rode with us back to BKK. There was an ugly incident where LC put on a Yankee hat, but this soon ended when I induced a number of the kids to start chanting "Go Red Sox". We chatted on the very long ride back.

Dinner at the Gallery Cafe and collapsed into bed.

Did you do anything else at the RiverKwai -- Jeath Museum or railroad?

No we skipped the River Kwai stuff entirely. The day was too full.

Last day in BKK. How sad.

We decided we were going to follow the walking/eating tour listed from Chowhounds website. The exact URL has been listed on this forum. The tour begins around the Giant Swing and involves popping into many eating establishments. No street food per se.

Started off at several shops to the left of City Hall. Had some coconut pastries that were just all right. A Bao-like pork bun was very good.Took a right on the next street and had some noodle soup with pork. Quite good. Across the street was a place on the corner that had super round Udon-like noodles with chicken. When we showed them the print out from the website along with a picture of the shop, they went crazy. Very good.

Walked down the street to the Chinese temple and took a left on Thanon Tanao. The next two steets to the right have a very European look to them. We wandered and found exactly where Chote Chitr was located. We intendeed to return for dinner.

Went to an renowned ice cream place, Koi Pornchipta on the corner. Very difficult to determine it was the place. The coconut ice cream was good, but not as good as at the Gallery Cafe.

Stuffed, we staggered over to the Mango with sticky rice place on Thanon Tanao. We got two orders to go. These cost more than everything we had previuosly purchased.

Taxi back to the ROS. Pool and cigar and a snack of M with SR. delicious.

Hay Andy!
So glad you did that walking tour (I was one who posted it). We walked down to Chote Chitr but were too interested in having lunch to do the "tour". Glad at least someone did it.

BTW, the ROS says "hi!". Greetings from LINK lounge. :-)

K-are you there now?

We had packing issues. So we spent some time sorting items into our four pieces. The last leg was a connection on Jet Blue with a 50 pound limit on each piece to To assist, I got a large scale from the concierge. Several pieces were packed to 49 pounds. The scale was invaluable.

We had dinner at Chote Chitr. Using Thanon Tanao as our destination helped get us there in a taxi.

The food was superb. The Mee grob and the Eggplant salad were absolutely perfect. The other dishes were top of the line. This place is well worth searching out.o the ROS for an early wake up.

AAC managed to get us there without incident. Cathay Pacific flights were only about 3/4 full so we had lots of room. A bonus was that the HK-JFK flight stopped in Vancouver for a layover. No plane change, but we did de-plane. Simple switch to Jet Blue at JFK and home smoothly.

Bac

Andy-Yes, here now at ROS. Spending some time online since access in Cambodia was spotty.

Trying to figure out where to go for dinner. Where is Harmonique? And if we go there, will it be a sea of Farang faces? Decided against eating at the Gallery cafe for that reason; it just felt too much like a Thai place in LA.

K-Harmonique is a simple walk from the ROS. You walk out take a right, follow the soi around to the left and get to Charon Kreung. take a right, after you go by the post office on your right (the very large building), look down the soi and you will se a green sign for Harmonique.

Yes, it will be almost all farangs., If you want a unique meal, go to Chote Chitr. Get the concierge to write down the address. If you and the concierge don't know the address. Get him to writhe Thanon Tanao, near the Chinese temple. Chote Chitr is down two streets from the Chinese temple off of Thanon Tanao. Many Thais and unique dishes.

Andy-
We ate at Chote earlier in the week (and last year). Food was good, though I'm starting to wonder if they are resting on their 5 famous dishes. Next time ask Tong what she thinks about the place (she's not enamoured).
Think we may go to Harmonique anyway. Don't feel like going too far tonight.

Panda, did you use Gregg at Innovasian for a previous trip? Opinion, please?

ekscrunchy-yes, we used Gregg at innovasian for our first trip.

For an Asian novice, his organization and coordination were very comforting. He planned a basic trip to BKK, Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai and Phuket. We saw all the major sights and did an elephant ride in CR and a kayak trip in Phuket. His hotel choices were OK. They tended to be ones used by tour groups. However, in BKK we switched from his choice of the Landmark to the Royal Orchid Sheraton after reading this forum. He made the switch easily. I suggest that if you're going to use him that you pick your own hotels.

Also, in country, he uses East-West Siam for guides and transfers. They are good, solid guides, but not extraordinary as is Tong and others cited on this forum.

In summary, I recommend Innovasian. Gregg will plan and execute an excellent trip. All reports on this forum have been positive.

Andy- Walked down to Harmonique. It's closed until Jan 9th for New Year's holiday. Will have to try another time.

Back to ROS and taxi to a place I read about on Chowhound called Le Lys. Very good Thai food owned by French expat and his Thai wife. In a house/courtyard setting. Seems to be a hang out for other French expats who like to play the French version of Bacci Ball (they have a court). I recommend it for your next trip.

We;ll have to try it.

The game is called Pelanque. We saw some people in Luang Prabang playing.

When we were in BKK over X-mas, harmonique was also closed. Must be a yearly thing.

Thank you, Panda. I am using him for the Vietnam part of my trip and to book the hotels (of my own chooosing) in BKK and LP (Peninsula and Phou Vau). The only tours I have booked in those two cities are with Tong, two days, and with Ta, recommended here, for 2 days in LP. I have been to BKK before but not to LP.

In Hanoi, Gregg booked the Hilton Opera for me (my choice...much less than the Sofitel M) and I am using the tour company for one of the 5 days in Hanoi..he also booked the Halong Bay cruise for me, and then hotels in Hue and Hoi Ann (again, I chose these) ..in that last part of the trip I will have the guides that he arranged..then I go to Saigon and stay on my own for a couple of nights (no tour; been there before).

I got his name here, probably from you. The reason I am asking is that I have not really clicked with him; perhaps he deals with many first timers and finds that I ask too many questions and have my own ideas about things like hotels and day trips...

Anyway, it is pretty set now so I am hoping for the best..it makes me nervous to pre-pay like that and I had never done this before in Asia....I leave right after New Years...so your comments are music to my ears, so to speak...