Hyderabad India Trip Report
Apr 6th, 2009, 09:38 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hyderabad India Trip Report
Hyderabad India Trip report
I’ve been in Hyderabad India on business well over a week and thought it may make sense to post a report to assist anyone else who finds themselves in the area. My perspective is that of one who is traveling on business, so bear with me in that respect.
India has been a fascinating experience for me in that during the first few days I was a bit overwhelmed by the poverty. It is a 3rd world country that is at least in Hyderabad, the 4th largest city, going through great change. The dichotomy of wealth and poverty is everywhere. I hope to come back again to see more of this very lovely country and its people. I’m hooked on India.
Lodging:
The Taj hotel has properties in Hyderabad that are 5 star. They are primarily located in the wealthier sections of town and while lovely are not optimal for those who are doing business in HITEC city. The commute is about 45 min. Novotel has a new property at the convention center and is about a 10 min. commute to HITEC. The property is away from congestion and has 3 layers of security. With the recent Mumbai bombing of the Taj, Novtotel feels like a better choice. Rooms are modern, appointed nicely and the AC is a delight! I would recommend that someone staying here spend the extra $20 US for a larger room. At about 700 sqf it is well worth the cost. Rooms include a sumptuous buffet breakfast that offers Indian and Western choices. A great start to the day. The dinner buffet is grand as well. There is no “middle” ground that I can see for hotel choices. Beyond the Taj and Novotel, there is also the Golcanda and a Marriott by the lake. All else I have seen appears to be sub-standard at best. Perhaps even frightening. The link I have attached below gives some other choices as well.
Dining:
Hyderabad is developing new restaurants daily and offers a variety of choices for low cost by western standards. Banjara Hills, the better neighborhood is home to many and you will not have a problem using a credit card in the se establishments. Hyderabadi food is full of spice. It’s hot even by Indian standards. Do not be embarrassed to ask for mild foods. Indians from other parts seem to do it regularly. All offer veg and non veg choices. I hadn’t realized it but India is certainly a vegetation paradise. I usually shy away from hot/spice foods because they do not agree with me. I have had no problems here in Hyderabad and at eat at least one spicy meal a day. Always ask for bottled water! A few good places are:
Exotica – a roof top spot that grabs the breeze and offers Asian and Indian choices. The corn appetizer is lovely as is the butter chicken
Nirvana – excellent local food!!
Waterfront – out at the lake offering a variety of cuisine – I hear that when it’s hot the smell of the lake can be a bit off putting
Golcanda Hotel – a well known spot for very good Hyderabadi biryani – an excellent value and an excellent meal
36 – offers traditional Kebab BBQ and a buffet at lunch – a good variety of Indian foods
Mainland China – stumbled across this chain resaurant at lunch. A mix of ExPats and Locals were all immensely enjoying the buffet of authentic Chinese food 9albeit a little spicier). A large ala carte menu also offers milder foods (Lemon chicken is good)
Little Italy – If you have a need for Italian food while in India they say this is the place!
Indi Joes – At the City Center mall, 5th floor, Indi Joes is a sort of American “TGIFridays”. Choices include American fried items, cheesy things etc. Sizzlers are the recommendation from locals, a bit spicier than you might expect but nonetheless mild compared to local foods. Dinner entrees are HUGE – seriously consider splitting the sizzlers.
McDonalds – well, I had to mention it – at City Center (There’s a couple of KFCs in town too)
Do not eat the street food – do not even think about it!
Sight seeing:
I’ll be brief. The link that follows offers good information. The must see places are:
Chaminar – symbol of the city – 4 minaret tower – must see
Fort Golcanda – caution, it’s a long hot hike up to the top. Only hire a guide inside tha gate and pay nor more than 300 INR
Chowmahalla Place – recently opened - see how the moguls lived!
Mecca Masjid – massive mosque holding 7,000 worshipers
Salarjung museum – if for no other reason go and see the statue of the veiled Rebecca! The collection of Chinese porcelain is also worthwhile.
Transportation;
The new Hyderbad airport is lovely. The highway to the airport is still under construction, so depending on time of day the route can vary. Plan anywhere form 30 to 90 minutes for the trip.
In my opinion driving is not an option for Westerners. Public transport is limited in Hyderabad and I would not recommend it from a safety perspective. Small open air 3 wheel taxis are available for 10 to 20 IRT ( 20 to 40 cents US). They are as safe as you would expect given driving conditions. Would I do it ….probably not. Also, of note is the better hotels will no let these drivers on the property, so you may have to walk.
Best bet is a hired car. There are two choices. Hotels offer car services and you can make arrangement through the Concierge for a car as needed. Or, you can pre-hire a driver for your stay. Premier rent-a-car service offers 4 door Honda civics with good AC and very good drivers. I will use them again!
Shopping:
Pearls - Hyderabad is the Pearl City and despite the fact that it inland is the spot Indians come to for pearls. There are numerous good stores. A driver will take you to one that he works with 9a kick back I am sure) or ask to be taken to Shankaral Pearls in Banjara hills. As with all things in India, negotiating is the expectation. Prices are good by any western standard, but try for your best deal. Don’t be afraid to walk away or just say “No Thank You”
Charminar – Immediately around this significant landmark are markets. Bangels in particular are sold her. Negotiate, keep your eyes open and cash close at hand. Don’t let the vendors see how much you have or you will loose in negotiating.
Handcrafts – there are a few good stores that offer “one stop shopping”. All are about the same – have your driver decide (it’s easier). Or go to Shilparmam, a handicraft “village” that is linked to a park close to HITEC city. You can bargain for most things in an environment less threatening then the streets. As with anywhere watch for pick pockets.
Men’s and Women’s Clothing/ table linens etc. – Fab India is an easy no hassle place to shop. Come with your table size in your pocket – Indian printed linens are a steal. No negotiating here.
Malls – they are springing up all over to service the tech industry employees and felt too American for me
One last thing – it’s early April (early Summer) and let’s not fool ourselves it is HOT, very HOT. Dress in loose light clothing that covers your skin.
Good general link follows:
www.hyderabadplanet.com
I’ve been in Hyderabad India on business well over a week and thought it may make sense to post a report to assist anyone else who finds themselves in the area. My perspective is that of one who is traveling on business, so bear with me in that respect.
India has been a fascinating experience for me in that during the first few days I was a bit overwhelmed by the poverty. It is a 3rd world country that is at least in Hyderabad, the 4th largest city, going through great change. The dichotomy of wealth and poverty is everywhere. I hope to come back again to see more of this very lovely country and its people. I’m hooked on India.
Lodging:
The Taj hotel has properties in Hyderabad that are 5 star. They are primarily located in the wealthier sections of town and while lovely are not optimal for those who are doing business in HITEC city. The commute is about 45 min. Novotel has a new property at the convention center and is about a 10 min. commute to HITEC. The property is away from congestion and has 3 layers of security. With the recent Mumbai bombing of the Taj, Novtotel feels like a better choice. Rooms are modern, appointed nicely and the AC is a delight! I would recommend that someone staying here spend the extra $20 US for a larger room. At about 700 sqf it is well worth the cost. Rooms include a sumptuous buffet breakfast that offers Indian and Western choices. A great start to the day. The dinner buffet is grand as well. There is no “middle” ground that I can see for hotel choices. Beyond the Taj and Novotel, there is also the Golcanda and a Marriott by the lake. All else I have seen appears to be sub-standard at best. Perhaps even frightening. The link I have attached below gives some other choices as well.
Dining:
Hyderabad is developing new restaurants daily and offers a variety of choices for low cost by western standards. Banjara Hills, the better neighborhood is home to many and you will not have a problem using a credit card in the se establishments. Hyderabadi food is full of spice. It’s hot even by Indian standards. Do not be embarrassed to ask for mild foods. Indians from other parts seem to do it regularly. All offer veg and non veg choices. I hadn’t realized it but India is certainly a vegetation paradise. I usually shy away from hot/spice foods because they do not agree with me. I have had no problems here in Hyderabad and at eat at least one spicy meal a day. Always ask for bottled water! A few good places are:
Exotica – a roof top spot that grabs the breeze and offers Asian and Indian choices. The corn appetizer is lovely as is the butter chicken
Nirvana – excellent local food!!
Waterfront – out at the lake offering a variety of cuisine – I hear that when it’s hot the smell of the lake can be a bit off putting
Golcanda Hotel – a well known spot for very good Hyderabadi biryani – an excellent value and an excellent meal
36 – offers traditional Kebab BBQ and a buffet at lunch – a good variety of Indian foods
Mainland China – stumbled across this chain resaurant at lunch. A mix of ExPats and Locals were all immensely enjoying the buffet of authentic Chinese food 9albeit a little spicier). A large ala carte menu also offers milder foods (Lemon chicken is good)
Little Italy – If you have a need for Italian food while in India they say this is the place!
Indi Joes – At the City Center mall, 5th floor, Indi Joes is a sort of American “TGIFridays”. Choices include American fried items, cheesy things etc. Sizzlers are the recommendation from locals, a bit spicier than you might expect but nonetheless mild compared to local foods. Dinner entrees are HUGE – seriously consider splitting the sizzlers.
McDonalds – well, I had to mention it – at City Center (There’s a couple of KFCs in town too)
Do not eat the street food – do not even think about it!
Sight seeing:
I’ll be brief. The link that follows offers good information. The must see places are:
Chaminar – symbol of the city – 4 minaret tower – must see
Fort Golcanda – caution, it’s a long hot hike up to the top. Only hire a guide inside tha gate and pay nor more than 300 INR
Chowmahalla Place – recently opened - see how the moguls lived!
Mecca Masjid – massive mosque holding 7,000 worshipers
Salarjung museum – if for no other reason go and see the statue of the veiled Rebecca! The collection of Chinese porcelain is also worthwhile.
Transportation;
The new Hyderbad airport is lovely. The highway to the airport is still under construction, so depending on time of day the route can vary. Plan anywhere form 30 to 90 minutes for the trip.
In my opinion driving is not an option for Westerners. Public transport is limited in Hyderabad and I would not recommend it from a safety perspective. Small open air 3 wheel taxis are available for 10 to 20 IRT ( 20 to 40 cents US). They are as safe as you would expect given driving conditions. Would I do it ….probably not. Also, of note is the better hotels will no let these drivers on the property, so you may have to walk.
Best bet is a hired car. There are two choices. Hotels offer car services and you can make arrangement through the Concierge for a car as needed. Or, you can pre-hire a driver for your stay. Premier rent-a-car service offers 4 door Honda civics with good AC and very good drivers. I will use them again!
Shopping:
Pearls - Hyderabad is the Pearl City and despite the fact that it inland is the spot Indians come to for pearls. There are numerous good stores. A driver will take you to one that he works with 9a kick back I am sure) or ask to be taken to Shankaral Pearls in Banjara hills. As with all things in India, negotiating is the expectation. Prices are good by any western standard, but try for your best deal. Don’t be afraid to walk away or just say “No Thank You”
Charminar – Immediately around this significant landmark are markets. Bangels in particular are sold her. Negotiate, keep your eyes open and cash close at hand. Don’t let the vendors see how much you have or you will loose in negotiating.
Handcrafts – there are a few good stores that offer “one stop shopping”. All are about the same – have your driver decide (it’s easier). Or go to Shilparmam, a handicraft “village” that is linked to a park close to HITEC city. You can bargain for most things in an environment less threatening then the streets. As with anywhere watch for pick pockets.
Men’s and Women’s Clothing/ table linens etc. – Fab India is an easy no hassle place to shop. Come with your table size in your pocket – Indian printed linens are a steal. No negotiating here.
Malls – they are springing up all over to service the tech industry employees and felt too American for me
One last thing – it’s early April (early Summer) and let’s not fool ourselves it is HOT, very HOT. Dress in loose light clothing that covers your skin.
Good general link follows:
www.hyderabadplanet.com
Apr 6th, 2009, 10:01 PM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,482
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Loved reading your report on how Hyderabad is changing as more travelers/business people are visiting the high-tech offices.
Yes, jewelry is a good buy not only in Hyderabad but in most of India. But shoppers must be extra careful in finding stores that are recommended either by Indian friends or work associates or even the hotel personnel. At reputable jewelry stores, you can really find very attractive items at reasonable prices.
Table linens, fabrics also are a great buy in Hyderabad as well in other Indian cities.
Remember to try all the various local dishes at good restaurants as regional cooking is different in various parts of India.
Yes, jewelry is a good buy not only in Hyderabad but in most of India. But shoppers must be extra careful in finding stores that are recommended either by Indian friends or work associates or even the hotel personnel. At reputable jewelry stores, you can really find very attractive items at reasonable prices.
Table linens, fabrics also are a great buy in Hyderabad as well in other Indian cities.
Remember to try all the various local dishes at good restaurants as regional cooking is different in various parts of India.
Apr 7th, 2009, 02:15 AM
#3
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would like to make clear that of <i>course</i> you can eat street food in Hyderabad and in India!! You just have to choose wisely. If it is freshly cooked in front of you, I would not have any worries. Just nothing that has been sitting around for hours. No salads, but those are not street food anyway, and in any event it’s not really a part of Indian cuisine to have uncooked vegetables. In the streets, choose fruit you peel yourself and not fruit that has been peeled and sitting around. But most things are freshly cooked in front of you so generally, and always using your common sense when choosing vendors, you should be fine. (Would you buy a hotdog or pretzel from a street vendor on NYC? I think you would find you are exposed to way more germs there than you are from street food in India….and don’t get me started on US salad bars….) To miss out on street food in India is crazy, IMO, as there is so much and it is so varied. Samosas, pakoras and of course the fantastic tea!
Apr 7th, 2009, 06:26 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cicerone - I understand what you are saying, but I have met four people who have tried and all fout have been ill. I generally love street food. It is almost Summer with temps around 100 F here and seeing raw meat, and even vegetables cooked in dusty air, complete with flying bugs just makes me nervous..... But, I hav tred much of the local food and love it! Hyderabadi spiced dishes are grand!
Apr 9th, 2009, 05:38 AM
#6
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seafox are you male or female? I have been 3 times through work and to be honest its not one of my fav cities in India. We normally stay in Taj hotels as a group but the Bajara is pretty awful....the lake in the front is so not a lake...smells like sewage to me. I also stayed in the Taj Krishna...got the worst delhi belly of my life! Thank goodness it only kicked in when arriving at the hotel in Mumbai. I guess I have not seen enough as i know there are lovely sights but I feel it tougher doing business here as a western woman than other cities. I have to be much tougher dealing with men to make them realise I am the person they need to talk to not my male colleagues. I would love to try some of the restaurrants you mentioned and i have heard of 1-2 of them. Also I bought the nicest wool pashminas here when i wandered out alone and took a tuk tuk to the bank. I did want to go shopping but not alone. We had a heated discussion about where i could get pashmina and he took me to a good cottage emporium and i spent about an hour with the son of the owner chatting and trying on Pashminas and listening to his love life woes. I spent about 120 euro and I know the driver gets a cut but i was happy for him to have this as he choose a good place for me and did not hassle me on the fre when I got back to the hotel.
Personally I would only eat street food with Indian friends who knew where was good.
Personally I would only eat street food with Indian friends who knew where was good.
Apr 11th, 2009, 01:10 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SiobhanP - yes I am male and I understand your difficulty as a woman in the workplace in India. I have seen change over the last 5 years, so it is coming, at least with the folks I work with in HITEC. I stayed away from the Taj hotels because of recent bomb threats. Although I did spend an evening at the Taj Deccan. I was not impressed. It seemed very tired. Do try the Novotel on your next trip. The breakfast buffet is grand, the Pepsi is cold and the ice is safe.
Apr 13th, 2009, 02:43 AM
#8
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seafox, Unfortunately the hotels are baased on fairs that we hold in them so I do not see much of a choice. I am not travelling to India at present as I focuse more on east asia and another person has taken this on. Novotel sounds great but probably too far out for me...have tpo say though I LOVE the new airport. It is a great addition to the city. I usually feel ok with the ice in drinks as I always ask but I truly feel the Taj Krishna has some food handling problems. Laswt visit we went to the Chinese restaurant (I was not keen but I have to go with the majority)and many felt unwell the next day. I was ok just the normal slightly off but not ill stomac h I tend to get after a longer visit and too much hotel food and travel 
My industrry is not IT so there are a few dinosaurs in dealing with women. I actually feel exhausteed at the end of the day as I have used more testosterone in dealing with potential clients and feel like I went a few rounds in a boxing ring and I am wrecked. I dont like being so tough 24 hours a day but I cannot operate if we do not meet people equally and speak with them personally. Saying that I still find it fun and challenging! MAay try for a holiday in India this year to relax more and see kochin again.
My industrry is not IT so there are a few dinosaurs in dealing with women. I actually feel exhausteed at the end of the day as I have used more testosterone in dealing with potential clients and feel like I went a few rounds in a boxing ring and I am wrecked. I dont like being so tough 24 hours a day but I cannot operate if we do not meet people equally and speak with them personally. Saying that I still find it fun and challenging! MAay try for a holiday in India this year to relax more and see kochin again.
May 12th, 2009, 04:08 AM
#9
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seafox - I am heading to Hyderabad in July for work, and am very excited about it. Your report is very helpful. I will be staying at the Novotel, so was happy to hear your thoughts of it. One thing I'm curious about is that someone from work told me it is very hard to find ATMs and that they charge a large fee to use. And that we should bring traveler's checks and cash them at the hotel. Are ATMs easily available? Have you any experience with fees? I thought that international banks could not charge a fee to use their ATMs, or maybe that is true in Europe only. This is my first experience in Asia.
Thanks!
Thanks!
May 13th, 2009, 12:51 PM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good news - there is an ATM in the hotel! I use Bank of America and there was $5 charge per transaction and it looks like the bank that owned the machine charged a minimal fee based on % of money out(60 cents for $300 in rupees). I wil say I did not see an ATM anyplace else. My driver told me there were a few and he would take me to a specific one as needed. If you find yourself getting a car throgh Premier, ask for Ayub - he was really helpfull and a very safe driver. Let me know if you have other questions. I did not mention it, but the hotel has a nice pool and fairly good spa for massages - get the jet lag massage the day you check in!
Are you from Paris ???.... you wouldn't happen to know of a nice 1 bedroom apartment for a good price 5 nights in November???
Are you from Paris ???.... you wouldn't happen to know of a nice 1 bedroom apartment for a good price 5 nights in November???
May 13th, 2009, 04:11 PM
#11
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, Seafox. I appreciate the info. The massage sounds great, I'll have to take advantage of that! Unfortunately, I am not from Paris, but I am hoping to get back to my "happy place" later this year.
May 14th, 2009, 07:26 AM
#12
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Actually there are bank machines around but....You should use a Citibank or HSBC as some of the smaller Indian banks may not work with your card or charge more for taking money as a fee...also if the weather is hotter be careful as blackouts often happen and it did when i was taking money out of an ATM in Delhi. I had to stay and see if I got my card back when the machine came up 15 minutes later but (it did)...but no cash came out and I had to call my bank at home in Ireland straight away to make sure no transaction went through. Travellers cheques could be risky if they are stolen.
May 14th, 2009, 06:00 PM
#13
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
While I haven’t’ used travelers checks in about 20 years, I have to point out that they are <i>very</i> safe and in fact that is their prime – if not only - advantage. In the first place they have to be countersigned with your signature when they are cashed, and every time you cash them you have to show your passport, which makes it very unlikely that anyone but you will be able to cash them. But more importantly, if they are stolen, you simply contact the issuer and cancel them, which ends your liability for them if someone were to successfully cash them. You can then get replacements for them. They are a very safe way to carry money. They are just not a good form of money, as you generally do not get a good exchange rate, worse than even cash, and some places may even put a surcharge on top of that.
May 15th, 2009, 04:38 AM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good point about the black outs! The hotel does have a generator that kicks in almost immediately. There seems to be rolling blackouts in HYD and the hotel got hit every morning between 5:45 and 6:45. So, no AC powered alarm clock in the room... you have to bring your own (battery operated) or use the wakeup call service.
By the way - prices in the hotel store are as good as anywhere - and hassle free.
By the way - prices in the hotel store are as good as anywhere - and hassle free.
May 15th, 2009, 07:21 AM
#15
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My company is suggesting that we bring traveler's checks and cash them as needed at the hotel - for cash not to pay for things. I'll probably bring some along with my ATM card - and of course my credit card for my shopping excursions!
Great advice, everyone. Thanks!
Great advice, everyone. Thanks!
Sep 13th, 2009, 10:31 AM
#20
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seafox - it was very interesting. Granted working cut way into my sightseeing time but I was able to see most of the highlights- and do lots of shopping! I will be going back in the spring so hopefully can visit another city while I am there.
I did not see an ATM except at the hotel (Novotel). The hotel did exchange travelers' checks for a minimal fee. The hotel was great - we had great service in every part of the hotel. I took advantage of the spa several times and it was so relaxing. We ate most of our meals there because of our odd work schedule. The restaurants were really good - loved the buffet, especially on Saturday nights when they grilled food outside. I was surprised at how long it takes to get somewhere with the traffic. And the car horns!!! I live in a city and don't hear car horns that often and it was the constant background sound when we were in a vehicle! I don't miss that at all!
I did not see an ATM except at the hotel (Novotel). The hotel did exchange travelers' checks for a minimal fee. The hotel was great - we had great service in every part of the hotel. I took advantage of the spa several times and it was so relaxing. We ate most of our meals there because of our odd work schedule. The restaurants were really good - loved the buffet, especially on Saturday nights when they grilled food outside. I was surprised at how long it takes to get somewhere with the traffic. And the car horns!!! I live in a city and don't hear car horns that often and it was the constant background sound when we were in a vehicle! I don't miss that at all!
