Tanuki's BKK, Cambodia & LP Trip in Progress
 

This is only my second trip to Thailand and will be my first to Cambodia (Phnom Penh and Siem Reap) or Laos. I posted some pictures here from my previous Thai trip early 2005, but never posted a narrative. I have found this site to be so helpful that I want to return the favor in some small way, so here goes. First I want to thank those who posted about Thai Airways schedule changes. I booked my trip myself, without the services of a travel agent, so I would have had no other way of knowing about the change to the LAX-BKK flights. The good part was that I ended up getting to stay 2 extra days in BKK, one on either end of the trip, so I am not complaining. I was using frequent flier miles and sat in the cheap seats, but I must say that the Thai Air experience was pleasant in the extreme. The seats are upholstered in mouth-watering orange marmalade, raspberry, and grape colors, and the fabrics have a constrasting slub here and there that suggests Thai textiles. The flight attendants were dressed in traditional Thai attire, and were unfailingly gracious and efficient. I have never eaten better food on an airling, and there was even ample leg room. I didn't hear one single grumble or gripe from a passenger the whole trip (except for the length of the flight, which is out of the airline's control). It was non-stop, btw, whereas my original booking would have stopped for an hour in Osaka.

Day 1: I am on a moderate budget for this trip, and many hotels jacked up their prices for the Christmas-New Year season, so I booked a room at the Century Park for $45USD an night (lower than the published rate) through asiarooms.com. Some here find the location inconvenient, but it is near Pratunam markets, Suan Pakkard, and Victory Monument skyway station, among other things. It is very nice, spotlessly clean, and efficiently managed, and I think it is a viable option for those who need a less expensive alternative to some of the perennial favorites here. There is a full-service business center, a Clark Hatch fitness center, and a pool that is better for lounging or a refreshing dip than for serious lap-swimming, due to its small size.

I arrived early in the morning and was pretty tired from the trip, but I did go to the Erawan shrine, where devotees bring offerings of flowers, incense, fruit, and wood carved elephants and in some cases pay the resident troupe of singers and dancers to perform in gratitude for requests granted b the deity. You can hire anywhere from two to eight dancers at a time. (I reproached myself for allowing even momentarily the thought of Michelle Pfeiffer warbling "Ten Cents a Dance" in "The Fabuous Baker Brothers" to cross my mind). While I was there, a young couple with little twin baby boys sponsored an eight-person dance, and as they sat on the platform and prayed it was easy to guess what prayer of theirs had been answered. :) Since my ankles were swollen from the flight, I had a Thai foot massage, which incorporates principles similar to acupuncture and is not just a "foot rub" by any means, and I think it was helpful. I also had a nice buffet lunch at the Arnoma Hotel, where I sampled some familiar items (chicken curry, pumpkin soup) as well as some that were new to me, including sago with sweet pork and peanuts.
I turned down an opportunity to have "gelatinous rice with durian" at the food court of a shopping complex when I went in to Narayan Phand, a government handicrafts store, but I did buy a hilltribe-made tote bag that is big enough to stash my camera discreetly on a day trip.

Day 2: The second day I went to the National Museum, and enjoyed seeing the cavalcade of Thai history from the prehistoric Ban Chiang era, through the Ayutthaya and Sukothai kingdoms, and into the present day. I enjoyed the textiles, masks, religious items, and more so much that even though I arrived when the museum opened, I was still there at lunch time and decided to eat at their cafe. It was fast, inexpensive ( about $1.50 US for chicken curry, vegetables, and rice with two big glasses of orange juice and a liter of water for the road), and satisfactory. I ate every bit of it except for the stray baby octopus tentacle that found its way into my vegetables. Well, I suppose I also left a few grains of rice, because I took a photo of the two little sparrows that swooped in through the open windows to help finish them off when I got up to pay my cheque.

I had read a rave review in the in-flight magazine about a specially commissioned "Khon" masked Ramakien (Thai Ramayana) dance production in honor of the King's Diamond Jubilee (as many of you know, 2006 marks His Majesty's 60th year on the throne, and there will be all manner of celebrations. I called the Sala Chalern Krung Royal Theatre to see about tickets, but the person who answered the phone did not speak English sufficiently well, so I went down to the box office on New Road and took care of it. The theatre is right in front of the Old Siam Center, so I strolled over there and it was really fun. It is almost entirely patronized by locals, and is sort of like a Pratunam market only with additional services like beauty parlors, tarot readers, palm readers, and many stores selling gorgeous Thai silks in a mind-bending array of colors and rich ikats. Later that evening I went to the Khon, and it was a glittering jewel of a production. Apparently, due to the masks muffling the actors' voices, the traditional performance always included two people at the edge of the stage declaiming the narrative and dialogue. I found this a little jarring at first. Nowadays the principle actors (Sita and Rama) and other humans or gods (except Hanuman) do not wear masks, and the only masked characters were the monkeys, demons,and magic bird. My understanding is that this production will only have a four-month season, beginning in December, but if you are in BKK during the time it is playing, it is definitely worth seeing.

To be continued...

Thanks Tanuki! I like seeing reports with new hotels and places to go!

Looking forward to your next installment!

Lucy

enjoying the report and look forward to more..

Day 3: I went to the Dusit Zoo, arriving when it opened at 8:00 since animals tend to be more active early in the day, especially in hot weather. My favorites were the Douc langurs; I don't remember ever seeing any before, but now they are my latest favorite primate. The troop included an adorable five-week-old baby that squeaked piteously each time its mother wandered too far away. What was really most enjoyable about the experience, though, was watching typical Thai families on a relaxed outing with their kids. Afterwards I poked around Chinatown for a while.

Day 4: My hotel is right in front of
large wat; some of the rooms (including mine) overlook the courtyard. Every morning the monks people come to make merit, and there is a small morning market. On New Year's morning, I joined the merit makers, purchasing a pre-assembled bucket of useful items, and found a likely-looking monk to give it too. I felt a little awkward, but the monk was very nice, greeted me in English, and we exchanged a few pleasantries, which I know is not how it usually works. I went back out to the morning market and made a few nominal purchases such as some souvenir-quality jade bracelets, rice cakes, and incense. After breakfast I went down to the Grand Palace, hoping to sign the King's guest book just as Gloria did, but I was told politely that it was only for Thais. I smiled ingratiatingly and said I knew of Americans who had been allowed to sign the New Years guest book, but to no avail; the officious one suggested I go to a celebration at my Embassy! Not wanting to play the Ugly American, I retreated graciously and wandered around until I found myself on the pier and decided to take a klong tour. It was a little disappointing in that I was really hoping to see the barge museum, and it was closed for the holiday. After that I went to Wat Po, enjoyed the fanciful statuary and beautiful tile work, and had a foot massage. I don't know whether it was
their technique or the little cup of ice-cold hance that they gave me, but I was walking on air as I left. OK, since I didn't get to sign the King's guest book, maybe he reads this web site, so I will send him a greeting here just in case:
"Your Majesty,
Best wishes for peace, prosperity, and happiness both for your beautiful country and for the world we all share. I loved the picture of you with your favorite dog in this morning's Bangkok Post. Happy New Year in the Year of the Dog.
xox,
tanuki

Day 6: I decided against the advice of some here to take a group tour to Ayutthaya. It was interesting, but I agree it would have been better with a private guide, which would have offered more flexibility. On the other hand, I probably wouldn't have done that on this trip, so I am glad I went, all things considered. I was planning to go to the Joe Louis puppet theatre this evening, but when I got there it was still closed for the holiday, so I consoled myself with some browsing in the Suan Lum night market. I will be back in BKK for one evening at the end of my trip, so I can try again.
The orchids I bought for 15 baht the first day here are still going strong. I'm sure they were meant for a temple offering or a spirit house, but I would venture to say that the spirit of my hotel room has been very pleased with them, and so have I.

which hotel are you staying in?? being able to overlook a temple would appeal to many...

there is a newish temple comokex on rama IV and there are a couple of hotels nearby, so i am wondering if it is one of those...

anxious for more reports

Rhkkmk, the hotel in question was the Century Park, which I mentioned in the first post of the thread. It is on Ratchaprarop Road in the Victory Monument/Pratunam area, and the wat looks as if it has been there for quite some time. I checked out of the Century Park early this morning and flew to Phnom Penh,about which more later, but I just ducked into an internet cafe right now to check my e-mail. I am mortified by all the typos and gibberish in my posts above now that I re-read them, but I suppose being humbled now and then is not bad for one's character. Anyway, I also noted that I jumped from Day 4 to "Day 6" above, but that was really day 5 and today is day 6. I also see that I forgot to mention going to Suan Pakkad Palace on Day 3, which was a grievous oversight, since it is such a lovely oasis of calmness in the midst of a bustling city. I did not realize there was such a variety of material on display, from Ban Chiang artifacts (pottery, jewelry, implements, etc.) to seashells, fossils, and other natural history items, to religious and cultural materials. Well worth a visit! So here I am in Phnom Penh, sharing an internet cafe with three orange-robed monks....and I will post all about Phnom Penh later.

I am back home now, so obviously the "in progress" part of the heading no longer applies, but I will try to fill in the rest of the trip as best I can.
Day 6-7: I stayed at Hotel Bougainvillier, which is in a great location on Sisowath Quay, a grassy riverfront esplanade, and within walking distance of the Royal Palace, National Museum, Silver Pagoda, and Wat Oulanom, a beautiful and very important religious center. I had tried to book a single room, which would have cost about $50US, but only a suite was available. The suite cost $77 including breakfast, and I loved it so much I would surely choose it again. Since I was traveling alone, it was really much more space than I needed, but it was delightfully decorated with a riot of Cambodian and Chinese silks. Sliding shoji panels separated the bedroom from the sitting area, and there was a bougainvillea-draped balcony looking out over the promenade and the river. (I included a couple of pictures of the suite in the photo thread I posted here yesterday.) It is a small inn with

(Arrrgh---hit "Reply" again)
....Bougainvillier is a small inn with only about 14 or 16 rooms, and the service is friendly, intimate, and efficient. The dining room is small and it is where you walk in to the hotel so it feels more like a coffee shop at first, but the cuisine is outstanding and quite sophisticated.
The first day in Phnom Penh I walked around the quay, wat, palace, and museum. The museum has some glorious stone pieces from Angkor (including the original of the "leper king") and elsewhere, including scores of buddhas in many styles and poses. I had lunch at a very special restauant called Friends, which is sponsored by a foundation that among other things trains former street children in the social and vocational skills to prepare for careers in the hospitality industry. They do much more than that, but I will leave it up to you to read about the organization if you want:
http://www.streetfriends.org/
At friends, I had savory crepes with curried vegetables, a soup, and a mangosteen margarita (yeah, it was too early in the day for a drink, but when would I get a chance to have one of those again?) I shopped a little on my

(Arrrgh---hit "Reply" again)
....Bougainvillier is a small inn with only about 14 or 16 rooms, and the service is friendly, intimate, and efficient. The dining room is small and it is where you walk in to the hotel so it feels more like a coffee shop at first, but the cuisine is outstanding and quite sophisticated.
The first day in Phnom Penh I walked around the quay, wat, palace, and museum. The museum has some glorious stone pieces from Angkor (including the original of the "leper king") and elsewhere, including scores of buddhas in many styles and poses. I had lunch at a very special restauant called Friends, which is sponsored by a foundation that among other things trains former street children in the social and vocational skills to prepare for careers in the hospitality industry. They do much more than that, but I will leave it up to you to read about the organization if you want:
http://www.streetfriends.org/
At friends, I had savory crepes with curried vegetables, a soup, and a mangosteen margarita (yeah, it was too early in the day for a drink, but when would I get a chance to have one of those again?) I shopped a little on my way back to the hotel, picking up a couple of stylish silk purses that were clearly not made out of sow's ears at a place called "Beauty D'Angkor". I had to admit that I was exhausted from walking around in the heat, the previous day walking around Ayutthaya, and having gotten up really early to catch the 6:40 a.m. flight, so I just took it easy the rest of the day. After stopping by the internet cafe where I saw all of those monks, I decided to throw caution to the wind and get a haircut at a salon near the hotel. You know that all bets are off when you ask the stylist what he thinks might look good, and he thinks you asked him to turn the fan on! A

Anyway, the haircut turned out just fine. The next day I hired a tuk tuk for the day and went around to the Tuol Sleng genocide museum, which was a devastating experience but one I would not have turned away from for the world. It is located in an actual detention center that was once a high school, and there are rooms full of mug shots of the detainees, among other things. I have a vivid imagination, and it was very gripping. It is such a dramatic juxtaposition to one moment imagine the horror, and then in the next moment to imagine the youngsters in the classrooms or having recess in the pleasant courtyard when it was still a school. Later I went to the park which is the location of Wat Phnom. In addition to the temple, it is a popular place for families on outings with their children. There are feral monkeys there as well.
I bought some silks and a monkey carved from local marble at the Russian Market. In general, I found the people in Phnom Penh very friendly, open, creative, and helpful. I am glad I included Phnom Penh on the trip, and would go again.

great report

Thanks for the great report and photos, which are truly amazing. We also loved Phnom Penh. I feel bad for people who skip it. We almost did too. We were talked into it and it has so much to offer. There are beautiful sites and somber sites, but like you we are so glad we went. It is especially cool to see the museum and what obviously cannot be left outside at Angkor. I sure wish we would have known of the hotel you stayed at. It looks wonderful. We found the people and the food to be outstanding and hope to spend more time in Cambodia soon. The day we were at Wat Phnom was a religious holiday of some sort and it was very busy. They were putting meat in the mouths of the statues. Bands were playing inside for the holiday and outside for AIDS day. People were buying and releasing birds. Holy water was flying everywhere. It was very surreal.

Rhkkmk, thanks for the encouraging words! You were asking above in the BKK part about the hotel with the wat view; I don't know if you noticed, but I posted a picture of the wat as viewed from the hotel window in the site on my recent photo thread. Here is a link to the specific picture: http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...amp;p=73622886

Connette, I'm glad you were at the temple when a special ceremony was going on! That sort of experience is otherworldly, something that is fraught with a meaning that seems just beyond one's grasp but still very beautiful and exciting. I'm also glad you mentioned the ritual of putting food in the statues' mouths. I saw some statues at a monastery in Luang Prabang with food in their mouths, and was curious about it! I will try to find out about this, or maybe one of the other posters can tell us more. As for the liberation of the caged birds, I have been told that this is seen as an act of mercy which accrues to one's merit, but the guide at Ayutthaya intimated that the birds fly home to be caught and released another day, and hejokingly referred to them as "business birds". :)
I mentioned dining at Friends restaurant in Phnom Penh, but I neglected to say how delicious and imaginative the food was. I even bought their "Best of Friends" cookbook at the shop next door. I also mentioned Wat Ounalom, but should have mentioned the friendly young monk who showed me all around. I didn't see any tourists there and was rather tentative, as wasn't sure if I permitted to walk around, but he was very welcoming and it was enjoyable chatting with him. He told me that he is studying English literature at the University, so it was no wonder his English was so good. There is a "headshot" picture of him in my photo thread, standing in front of numerous small Buddha statuettes in a shrine at the monastery. He told me that these have been sent from devotees all over the world, including the US.
Days 7-10: I stayed at the Marina Villa Guesthouse in Siem Reap, owned by the family of Ponheary and her brother Dara. Fifteen members of the extended family live in the compound, which made it interesting and fun to observe Cambodian family life up close in a way that would be possible in a hotel. The room was $20 a night, and had air conditioning, a mini-fridge, and a balcony. It was clean and comfortable, although I suspe

(bad tanuki can't keep her paw off the Reply button)
Guesthouse was clean and comfortable, although I suspect some here would find it a bit Spartan for their taste. I would stay there again.
Dara was my guide, and he is a gem. He is very bright and knowledgeable, and is conscientious, considerate, and accommodating of personal preferences and needs. As others have mentioned, he times visits very wisely, knowing when a temple will be least crowded, or an entrance that has fewer steep stairs, or plans visits to the jungle temples in the sunny part of the day and those that require walking out in the open for the cooler part of the day. One thing he did that was really generous was that when I said wistfully that my camera did not have a wide enough lens to get some of the shots I would like, he offered to let me use his own digital camera, and then he went to a photo shop and had two CDs made for me of the pictures before I left. (These are not posted yet on my photo thread).
While in Siem Reap, I spent three days visiting the temples, including Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Rolous group, Banteay Srei, Ta Prohm, and Preah Khan. We also visited a two-room rural school on the way back from Banteay Srei to distribute some school supplies I had purchased in the market. The principal's "office" was outside, under a tree! Dara told me that the tin roof of the school had been donated by Ponheary's clients. We also stopped at an after-school training program where youngsters learn the craft of working buffalo leather to make shadow puppets. Although I didn't really need a shadow puppet, I bought one, and it was worth it to see the pride on the face of the little boy who made it.
On the fourth day, we went to the National Silk farm, seeing every stage of silk production from cultivation of the mulberry plants, raising silkworms, to processing the cocoons, spinning, dying, and weaving. We also went to the Artisans D'Angkor workshops and boutique. This program is now self-supporting, and trains village young people in traditional crafts both to preserve Khmer culture and to provide employment, and the items on sale were of excellent quality. I also donated blood at a children's hospital. There is a chronic need for donated blood, and it is really so easy to do. For those who might be worried about doing it, they use the international-standard collection bags with sterile, self-contained, one-use needles so there is absolutely no chance of contamination or re-use of needle.
I was hoping to have a chance to go to a temple ceremony, we went to one in Siem Reap. There were musicians, a nun who danced joyously, lots of worshippers offering candles, lotus buds and incense, and three monks who flicked holy water with rods made from tightly rolled banana leaves. There are such ceremonies every eight days, so a visitor who is in town for a few day

(bad tanuki can't keep her paw off the Reply button)
Guesthouse was clean and comfortable, although I suspect some here would find it a bit Spartan for their taste. I would stay there again.
Dara was my guide, and he is a gem. He is very bright and knowledgeable, and is conscientious, considerate, and accommodating of personal preferences and needs. As others have mentioned, he times visits very wisely, knowing when a temple will be least crowded, or an entrance that has fewer steep stairs, or plans visits to the jungle temples in the sunny part of the day and those that require walking out in the open for the cooler part of the day. One thing he did that was really generous was that when I said wistfully that my camera did not have a wide enough lens to get some of the shots I would like, he offered to let me use his own digital camera, and then he went to a photo shop and had two CDs made for me of the pictures before I left. (These are not posted yet on my photo thread). I am sure I don't have to tell anyone who is reading this how beautiful, powerful, inspiring, and mysterious the temples are. Part of my memory of the place will always be the musical ensembles comprised of landmine survivors whose beautiful, haunting music serve as a backdrop when one is walking the paths. They sell a CD of their music, with proceeds benefitting landmine survivors.
While in Siem Reap, I spent three days visiting the temples, including Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Rolous group, Banteay Srei, Ta Prohm, and Preah Khan. We also visited a two-room rural school on the way back from Banteay Srei to distribute some school supplies I had purchased in the market. The principal's "office" was outside, under a tree! Dara told me that the tin roof of the school had been donated by Ponheary's clients. We also stopped at an after-school training program where youngsters learn the craft of working buffalo leather to make shadow puppets. Although I didn't really need a shadow puppet, I bought one, and it was worth it to see the pride on the face of the little boy who made it.
On the fourth day, we went to the National Silk farm, seeing every stage of silk production from cultivation of the mulberry plants, raising silkworms, to processing the cocoons, spinning, dying, and weaving. We also went to the Artisans D'Angkor workshops and boutique. This program is now self-supporting, and trains village young people in traditional crafts both to preserve Khmer culture and to provide employment, and the items on sale were of excellent quality. I also donated blood at a children's hospital. There is a chronic need for donated blood, and it is really so easy to do. For those who might be worried about doing it, they use the international-standard collection bags with sterile, self-contained, one-use needles so there is absolutely no chance of contamination or re-use of needle.
I was hoping to have a chance to go to a temple ceremony, we went to one in Siem Reap. There were musicians, a nun who danced joyously, lots of worshippers offering candles, lotus buds and incense, and three monks who flicked holy water with rods made from tightly rolled banana leaves. There are such ceremonies every eight days, so a visitor who is in town for a few days would have a fair chance of seeing one.
The most hypocritical thing I did was to go up in the tethered balloon to view Angkor Wat, and it was a thrill, not scary, and a fantastic view! (I say hypocritical because I always regard that sort of thing as an annoying blight on the landscape).
Dara arranged for us to go to a place called Angkor Conservation, where many hundreds of sculptures are being secured both outdoors and inside (some parts off-limits to visitors). Some of these have been recovered from looters, some are being kept there for protective custody, and in a few cases they are reproductions that were made to restore something in an area that is now only using original materials. Some were recovered from the residence of Pol Pot himself. Dara said that these pieces will be exhibited in the museum that will open on the road to the airport in a few years, although they

(sorry)

... although they look very much at home where they are right now, out among the trees. There were no other tourists there, and I don't think this place is generally open to the public but it is definitely worth asking Dara about.
We also went out on a boat on Tonle Sap, which is a very interesting opportunity to observe a water-based way of life that is otherwise hard to even imagine.
I mostly ate at the little mom and pop restaurants along Wat Bo road, where Marina Villa is located, and they were inexpensive and satisfying. A nice place for lunch was the Chivit Thai, with a view of a pretty garden courtyard. I saw a shadow puppet show at the Bayon Restaurant, which was fun and lively, if somewhat hard to follow the story line. I also went to a dance performance at the Jasmine Restaurant, which was the one Dara suggested because the dancers are from a training program that is designed to keep the traditional dances alive after the devastation of the Khmer Rouge years. There were a variety of dance styles, including a charming fisherman dance that used "reeling them in" as a metaphor for courtship, a harvest dance, and a scene from the Ramayana. The grand finale was an apsara dance, which drove home the point that the young girls of Cambodia are just as lovely today as any depicted on the walls of the temples.
(to be continued)

Great report-- so glad you saw something of Cambodia and not just the temples at Angkor. I think it's so important to see and understand what this country has gone through. So many people just go to the temples as an add on to another trip. Wonderful as the temples are, seeing more of the country and especially the killing fields to me is even more moving and important. Only by seeing and understanding can we hope to avoid this in the future. Bravo to you!

Before leaving the subject of Siem Reap, I should also mention the Foreign Correspondents' Club, which was an easy walk across the river from the guest house and where I had lunch one day. The rear balcony is leafy and fan-cooled and has something of a treehouse feel; I could have plucked an apple from an overhanging limb of one of the trees! I had an excellent soup and tapas sampler, and afterward browsed a couple of the shops downstairs.
It was apparently an auspicious time for weddings, as we saw several wedding parties during the few days I was there. I watched a procession of the relatives of one of the grooms parading single file down Wat Bo Street, each in traditional attire and carrying offerings to the home of the bride.

Day 11-13: I flew to Luang Prabang via Bangkok; although Bangkok Airways now has a direct flight, it was not yet up and running at the time I booked my trip. I stayed at the Xieng Mouane Guesthouse directly across from the monastery of the same name, one street over from the main street where the night market is. The room was quite adequate, but at $30 a night (no breakfast, but morning tea and coffee in the very nice courtyard garden) I thought that there were probably comparable rooms at lower prices. It was nonetheless an excellent location, and it was really enjoyable to observe the monks, to hear them chanting at night, and to see their woodworking shop. Because so much sacred art was lost during the recent years when the monasteries were suppressed, the Xieng Mouane monastery has a special project to teach young monks in the arts of painting, sculpture, etc. so that they can go on to produce decorative arts in the Buddhist tradition into the next generation. There is a small gift shop featuring some of their work, and I bought a small wood carved Buddha that is clearly the work of a student and not a master, but it is sweet, sincere, and slightly flawed, like some of the best people I know.
The first evening I had a light meal of soup and spring rolls on the terrace of Le Calao Hotel, overlooking the river, which was very pleasant. I visited the Royal Palace, which was pretty but somewhat sad considering the fate of the royal family. I enjoyed a performance of the national dance company in the theatre on the palace grounds. Once again, it was based on scenes from the Ramayana, and although the performance was in some ways less sophisticated than what I had seen in BKK, it was vibrant, charming, and well worth attending. There was an exhibit in the palace gallery of a needlework competition, in which many of the contestants had skillfully and creatively blended traditional needlework techniques with contemporary themes.
I went overboard at the night market, and as a result every female person I know now has a silk scarf or some sort of Laotian textile item.
I had a light meal one day at Le Tam Tam Garden near the night market, and it was well prepared. I have to say I was disappointed in L'Elephant after all the good reviews here, but then again any restaurant can have an "off" day.
I spent a lot of my time in LP visiting the monasteries and just walking around absorbing the "atmosphere." I liked LP, but felt it is on the verge of becoming perhaps a caricature of itself in the same way Santa Fe has.

Day 14: I was originally supposed to connect from LP via BKK to my flight back to the US, but with the change in the Thai Airways trans-Pacific flights I ended up with an extra night in BKK at the end. I stayed at the Menam on the river. I gather that the Menam has something of a "red headed stepchild" reputation on this board, but it has been re-decorated recently and was fresh and quite nice, for $62, in high season. Because I had an 8:30 p.m. flight, they allowed me to extend my check-out until 5:30 p.m. for only an additional $15. I am sure it is no match for the high-end places, but still, the room was tastefully decorated in contemporary Thai style, and my room had an expansive river view. The pool is quite large, well landscaped, and is an attractive cobalt color. Breakfast (a buffet with lots of choices) was served out the riverside veranda, and afterward I bought some fish food and fed the river catfish.
The hotel has a river shuttle at regular intervals. It sits back from the street, and both sides of the driveway are lined with shops, mostly massage establishments, tailors (some with the effrontery to dub themselves "Versace Fashions" or similar!, and an internet cafe. Aside from these shops, the neighborhood is not at all tourist-oriented, and in fact most of the shops' signs are only in Thai. There is an historic Protestant graveyard on land donated by King Mongkut, now maintained by the British Embassy.

As I was walking along the street, I passed the Libyan Embassy, which also had a sign on the front wall for the Thai Muslim Womens' Foundation for the Welfare of Orphans. I heard the sound of drumming from the compound, and followed the sound rather tentatively (since I wasn't sure whether I would be welcome to wander onto the grounds of the Libyan Embassy, especially with a camera!) The universal language of smiles and gestures worked with the Thai guard, and I discovered that I had happened upon the orphans' (age 3 through 12)annual "color games" (red team vs. green team, etc.) The drumming was a young boy accompanying a dance team. The headmistress was very friendly and spoke good English. She treated me like a VIP guest, making sure I had a good seat and a popsicle! (There are a couple of pics of youngsters on the photo site in red shirts, with popsicles, from that day) :) The girls' basketball game was hilarious. In lieu of a real basketball net, they had a girl at each end of the court standing on a chair holding a big wicker basket, and she was allowed to help her team score by moving the basket to help catch the ball! It was sort of like three parts basketball and one part lacrosse. Although the orphanage is run by a Muslim womens' organization, it is not sectarian and caters to children of all religions (according to the headmistress, who is a Buddhist). The children were obviously loved and well cared for, and the visit was a delightful conclusion to my trip.

T-great report. It's super to read about other places to stay in the various cities. We had a somewhat similar experience in BKK. We heard soem children yelling and we looked through a gate to see them playing volleyball. One of the teachers saw us and invited us in to watch. we were treated like honored guests. All of the children wanted us to take pictures of them. They let us join in the cheers for their teams. It was great fun. My wife prevented me from embarrassing myself by joining the game. Probably all for the best.