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Old Aug 10th, 2004, 09:41 AM
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Suzhou walking without guides

Can anyone help with this question of walking on your own in Suzhou. Having no relation of distances, this is my query. Is it too far to walk from the Panmen area (Ruiguang Pagada) to Humble's Adminisrative Garden by way of Lindun Lu, while taking in the gardens along the way? If so, how much time should I allow for the walk if I don't tarry too long in each of the gardens? Also, is a visit to the Silk Museum worth while if time is tight? We will be in Shanghai for five days and we're considering a day trip to Suzhou. Thank you,

hmbpa
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Old Aug 10th, 2004, 10:25 PM
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I haven't yet been to Suzhou, but bought the new Lonely Planet "Shanghai" guide book and it does have a few pages on Suzhou, including a map and it certainly looks feasible to be able to walk betweeen those two points.
Sorry cannot answer on the Silk Museum, which looks to be close to the Humble Administrator's Garden, but LP says it is highly recommended by many.
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Old Aug 11th, 2004, 10:25 AM
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Fenno,

Thank you for the help, I think I'll give it a try.

hmbpa
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Old Aug 12th, 2004, 02:47 PM
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We'll be in Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong in a few weeks and plan to take a day trip to Suzhou - haven't decided whether to take an organized tour or do on our own. I have heard that the Silk Museum is worth seeing. If you have five days in Shanghai, then I would definitely recommend a day trip to Suzhou. Other places to see if you are interested in textiles:

Embroidery Research Institute -
Suzhou embroidery is one of the four famous embroidery schools in China. Kittens and goldfish are common motifs. With 48 embroidery colors, the institute turns out unique needlework, of which double-faced embroidery is most outstanding.

Sandal Wood Fan Factory -
Suzhou Sandalwood Fan Factory is famous for making sandalwood fans, perfumed wood fans, silk tissue fans and ivory fans. Visitors like to enjoy the processes as fretwork, poker work, painting and carving.

Silk Spinning Mill -
Suzhou No. 1 Silk Spinning Mill specializes in producing raw silk with domestic silkworm cocoons as its raw material. Western visitors like to see the processes of sorting, boiling of cocoons, spinning, rewinding and packing.

Silk Garment Factory -
Suzhou Silk Garment Factory manufactures various high-grade silk garments that are much sought after at home and abroad. The ancient-style costumes show of the factory demonstrates various costumes of China's past dynasties, winning high appreciation from a lot of visitors from both at home and abroad.
Silk Printing Mill -
Suzhou silk Printing Mill turns out millions of meters of printed silk, "Mid-lake Pavilion" brand crepe de chine winning the state gold prize. Visitors can see all the processes such as designing and printing.

Silk Weaving Milk -
Dongwu Silk Weaving Mill, the largest of its kind with more than 5,000 workers, specializes in producing such silk fabrics as taffeta, crowned with "King of Taffeta" in international market, and its brocade praised as "Artistic Flower of the East"

Silk Dyeing Factory -
Suzhou Silk Dyeing and Scouring Factory annually dyes and sours 40 million meters of silk fabrics. The products are exported to over 100 countries and regions. The processing attracts many visitors from all over the world.

Mahogany Carving Factory -
Suzhou Mahogany Carving Factory is renowned both at home and abroad for its hand-making Ming-Dynasty-Style mahogany furniture, including beds, bookshelves, wardrobes, chest of drawers, various tables and chairs as well as small ornaments, all of superb worksmanship.

Jade Carving Factory -
Suzhou Jade Carving Factory produces both large and small jade articles, such as: Buddha figures, beautiful ladies, Flowers, birds, animals, bracelets, necklaces, etc. Suzhou city is one of the cradles for jade carving in China since time immemorial.

Knitting Factory -
Suzhou General Knitting Mill manufactures all kinds of high quality knitting-wears and underwear. Foreign investment, compensation trade and processing with supplied materials are always welcome.
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Old Aug 12th, 2004, 02:59 PM
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My parents visited the Embroidery Research Institute and highly recommend it. They also sell direct, and my parents bought a silk panel, even though they almost never buy stuff while on trips.

It's is also right next to the garden &quot;Mountain Villa with Embracing Beauty&quot;. It's one of the smaller and least visited - <b>READ: LEAST CROWDED</b> - Suzhou classic gardens.
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Old Aug 12th, 2004, 05:01 PM
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We took a daytrip to Suzhou a few years ago, but hired a car and guide from Shanghai. From my faulty memory if I'm not running days together:
We visited two gardens, a silk factory, canals, and ate lunch in a local restaurant across from the entrance to one of the gardens. (My very old posting when we returned is probably still on here somewhere.)

We enjoyed strolling the gardens (not crowded in December). We really enjoyed seein the silk process from cocoon through spinning, washing etc. and stuffing into a comforter. Again, in December we were the only visitors, but they showed us every step along the way before we entered the gift shop.

It seemed we drove alot to get around town, but I know sometimes the distances can be deceiving as the driver may be taking a better road or low traffic route rather than a more direct one you can walk. Before we went I had read in a guide book a plan to take the train, hire a taxi to the furtherest tourist destination and then work the few miles back by foot, taking a full day.
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Old Aug 13th, 2004, 06:07 PM
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Went to Silk Museum before. I don't recommend it because there is not much to see except a few antique silk, tools and demonstration of making silk. I guess Embroidery Research Institute (although I haven't been there) as recommended by rkkwan is better.

Suzhou is a small town and definintely doable on your own. Most sights and gardens are within the walkable distance. For some remote sights like Tiger Hill, you can either take a bus or taxi (rather cheap).

Also one advice: Since Suzhou has so many gardens, pick the best two to three to go. Otherwise, you will be too hurry and won't enjoy it.


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Old Aug 15th, 2004, 09:18 PM
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Suzhou is a very nice city. Unfortunately I only spent a weekend there. I tried to get as much done as possible... visited 3 gardens, silk factory (too touristy), walked around shopping district etc. From what I remember the city was not tremendously large, so walking around is possible. With the cheap and effecient taxi service, I think it would be wise to just walk and take taxi's places. If you speak chinese you can tell the taxi driver to take you somewhere that he recommends (I did it a few times and ended up at some wonderful restaurants and sight seeing spots), if not just write out the places you want to go and show it to the driver...they dont speak English usually. Oh and when in Suzhou make sure you buy some &quot;beggar's chicken&quot; from the street vendors (it's wrapped in a big leaf) it's one of the best things I ever tasted! Well, I hope this helps you out.
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Old Aug 15th, 2004, 10:23 PM
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Which hotel you suggest in Suzhou? And also which are the best daytrips from there (e.g.Tongli..)??
Thanks.
Gianni (Milan, Italy)
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Old Aug 15th, 2004, 11:39 PM
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We went to China in 2002 - found some notes when we went from Suzhou to Zouzhang which is a beautiful water town. I post the notes here for everyone and then see if I can search out the Suzhou ones.
From Suzhou: There are frequent minibuses (RMB14.5) from Suzhou North Bus Station. The earliest leaves at 07:05, the last one at 17:05, at intervals of about half an hour. The journey takes about 1 hour.
Ticket information: Entrance tickets for Zhouzhuang are in a package of RMB60. This includes fees to 11 sights. More information: Please contact Suzhou CITS (Tel: 0512-5209362) or CTS (Tel: 0512-5224908).

Zhouzhuang Known as the &quot;Venice of the Orient&quot;, Zhouzhuang is the most representative water-town in &quot;Jiangnan&quot; (Southern Jiangsu Province). Its sleepy alleyways are best explored on foot. Amble by the ancient black-and-white houses that line the waterside. Alternatively, take a &quot;gondola&quot; on the water itself and experience Zhouzhuang through the lattice of simple stone bridges.
The town came into being 1100 year ago, during the Northern Song Dynasty. Originally named after an early benefactor called Zhou Di (the town took his family name) Zhouzhuang has continued to attract attention over the centuries, particularly from scholars and artists. Recent visitors include artist Wu Guanzhong and the late San Mao, famous Taiwanese writer.
Location: Zhouzhuang is located 87 kilometres west of Shanghai, and only 38 kilometres east of Suzhou.
Population: 30,000. The majority of the locals make a living through tourism and related businesses.
Transportation:
From Shanghai: There are tourist shuttles available at the Hongkou Football Stadium (Gate 2, package ticket - including entrance to the town - RMB100, 14:20), Shanghai Stadium (Gate 5, package ticket RMB100, 07:00, 09:00, 12:00, 14:00). Two regular buses also head for Zhouzhuang from No.88, Gongxing Lu. (Ticket price RMB17, 9:30, 13:00). The journey takes about 2 hours.
Attractions: Water Water is the soul of Zhouzhuang and travelling by water is really the only way to get to the heart of the little town. Gondola-like boats travel swiftly up and down the canals. Sitting on the prow, you get a closer look at the carvings on the bridges, and the details of the waterside residences. You may see local women washing clothes in the water. If you keep your eyes peeled, you may even spot places where the recent Universal movie &quot;Pavilion of Women&quot; was filmed.
Bridges Believe it or not, tourism did not hit Zhouzhuang until 1984. Dubious honors should go to painter Chen Yifei and Zhouzhuang's Twin Bridge. Among 38 of Chen's paintings shown in a New York gallery in the early 80s, the one depicting Zhouzhuang's Twin Bridge (Shuang qiao), entitled &quot;Memory of Hometown&quot; received particular praise. It was purchased by Armand Hammer, chairman of the board of directors of Occidental Petroleum Corporation and owner of the gallery. When Hammer visited China one month later, he presented the painting to Deng Xiaoping. The gift brought the name of the town to the world's attention.
There are, in total, 14 stone bridges at Zhouzhuang. The town would hardly be the same without their beautiful reflections in the water. Among them, Double, Fu'an and Zhenfeng bridges in particular are not to be missed.
Fu'an Bridge is at the east end of Zhongshi Jie. First built in 1355, later rebuilt by Shen Wansi, younger brother of Shen Wansan, the bridge has towers at both ends. On each side of the bridge, there are vividly carved beams and painted rafters. The rainbow-like Zhenfeng Bridge sits on the west mouth of Zhongshi River, connecting Zhenfeng Long and Xiwan Jie.
Architecture Most houses in Zhouzhuang were built during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Backing on to the canals, most of them have two floors, with distinctive white walls and a black roof. Narrow cobbled alleys with red lanterns hanging outside separate the rows. Of all the local residences, the Shen and Zhang houses attract the most visitors. Located southeast of Fu'an Bridge on Nanshi Street, Shen House used to be home to the offspring of the millionaire trader Shen Wansan. The two-story dwelling is built in uniquely local style with over 100 rooms of different sizes along two sides of a 100-metre-long road. The house is divided into three sections. The first includes the water gate, and a wharf for mooring boats and for washing. The second one consists of a tearoom and main hall. The rear part serves as the living quarters.
Zhang House is located to the south of the Double Bridge on Beishi Jie. Built during the Ming Dynasty, it is one of the oldest buildings in Zhouzhuang. The Ruojing River actually runs through the building so that small boats can lead you into the house through its backyard. There is a square pool built in the middle section to allow boats to turn round. It has six courtyards and more than 70 rooms, covering more than 1,800 square metres.
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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 05:14 PM
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Thank you all for the great information you sent on Suzhou. I am especially intrigued with the information Cosmo sent on Zhouzhuang. Can you tell me if the houses of Shen and Zhang are open to the public? Are there gardens here to be viewed? Has anyone else visited this small city and what were your impressions? Thank you.
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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 06:04 PM
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Here is the towns website.
We loved the day there but must warn you that they have made the &quot;old town&quot; picture perfect... so that it almost feels like a theme park - they are trying for world heritage listing.
Great photo opportunites there and a relaxing day. If you come in on the bus there are rickshaws waiting to take you to the top of the street where the old town is... its walled off so you go through an admission gate to enter it.
I sent a couple of questions to the email contact on this web page and got great answers back so the office has english speaking staff who are very helpful.
On another note - We loved Shanghi - it is a city like no other in China. It has a real energy and the people also feel different. Well worth 2 days there before moving on.
http://www.zhouzhuang.net/INDEX_E.HTM
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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 06:10 PM
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hmbpa - I don't know if you've read one of my earlier posts about the watertowns near Suzhou. My parents went to 6 of them about 3 months ago, and I helped edit their videos.

Their recommendation is NOT to go to Zhouzhang. Too touristy and too many tourists. Unless you want to see a &quot;Disney-fied&quot; watertown, go elsewhere. If you were to visit just one of these towns from Suzhou, their recommendation is Tongli. It's less crowded, more authentic, and it also has one of the nine gardens that are listed in the UNESCO World Heritage Site. [The other 8 are all inside Suzhou.]
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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 07:46 PM
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rkkwan and/or cosmo:
We have one day to travel outside Shanghai on our own, and at first I thought we would spend it in Suzhou. Then it was suggested that Zhouzhuang would be a better choice. Now Tonglii has been put into the mix. If I can only pick one city to spend the day in, should I forget Suzhou and select either Zhouzhuang or Tonglii? Again thank you for all your help.
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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 07:50 PM
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Here is Tongli's website. We considered it but from memory it was more difficult and therefore slower to get to (we used public transport so if you hire a driver you may consider it) Looking at the website Id agree with rrkwan.
Tongli looks a more authentic version of Zhouzhang. As I mentioned Zhouzhang has been prettied up for tourism where this website of Tongli shows what Zhouzhang was probably once like... I loved it all the same and we avoided the crowds by getting there first bus in the morning... the tour buses come later.
I suppose it comes down to if youve time or not.
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Old Aug 17th, 2004, 05:13 AM
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Yes, Zhouzhuang is too touristy. Tongli and Xitang are more authentic. I recently read an article by Long Yingtai, a famous writer from Taiwan. She actually recommends spending a night at the water towns because those towns actually become alive after tourists depart. (People do not realize that we tourists actually disturb their lives greatly.)
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Old Aug 17th, 2004, 08:47 AM
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Cosmo:

For some reason the Tonglii website did not come through. When you have the opportunity could you please send it again. Thank you.
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Old Aug 17th, 2004, 01:51 PM
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Sorry, forgot to paste it - here is the website for Tongli
http://www.china-tongli.com/english/main.htm
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Old Aug 18th, 2004, 10:24 AM
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Cosmo:

Thanks for the Tonglii website. I think I will make it my first choice over Zhouzhuang. If I can't get to Tonglii maybe I'll try Xgao's recomendation of Xitang. Do you know anything about Xitang? After reading Rkkwan's warning about the crowds at Suzhou that is now at the bottom of my list.
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Old Aug 18th, 2004, 01:18 PM
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My parents also went to these watertowns:

Xitang, Wuzhen, Tongli, Mudu, Zhouzhang &amp; Luzhi

Xitang, Wuzhen and Mudu are still pretty authentic. However, from my understanding of the geography, Xitang and Wuzhen are about halfway between Shanghai and Hangzhou, and are a little further from Suzhou than Tongli and Mudu; though I don't know the exact distance or travel time.
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