Sulawesi in September
 

We are considering Bali in September and......? We have been to Java, thoroughly enjoyed it. I am really considering Sulawesi but have read very few travel reports. I do know that the funerals are very exciting but I don't think I could handle seeing animals slaughtered (or hear it).

So, if I miss the funerals I am missing the best part? Meaning, If it wasn't for the funerals is it still a terrific places to visit?

Is is possible to self-drive?

Any suggestions you can pass on to me is greatly appreciated!

We considered Sulawesi as well for our upcoming trip in May. All I can advise is plan well and know where you're going--I'm sure you've read that there are TONS of issues with religious violence in that whole area.

At the end of the day, we decided it was a bit too touch-and-go for us to be able to enjoy a relaxing time there, but if that kind of thing doesn't bother you, it's a cultural and scenic wonderland.

Thank you filmwill for your time and thoughts. Yes, we had considered the problems could be a set back. But, it seems so often we change our plans because of political situation and then regret it. No airfare or anything is booked but I would love to hear if someone has been there and what their feelings are about Sulawesi.

Watch for Marmot to reply, as I know she has been there.

I've been to Central Sulawesi (Tanah Toraja)a couple of times, but not in the past five years. I've also been to North Sulawesi several times.

Ramadhan this year is from August 20 to September 20, culminating in a two week holiday at the end of September. Although many Sulawesi people are Christian or animist, travel is always difficult during Ramadhan and at Islamic holidays as many of the tour guides and travel industry personnel are Javanese.

You don't want to drive yourself in Sulawesi! Don't even think about it.

Tanah Toraja is several hours' drive from Makassar. Your resort will arrange transport for you. It's a phenomenally beautiful area.

I wouldn't be too concerned about sectarian violence in the Tanah Toraja area. It is quite isolated from the communities that have been affected.

The funerals ARE the big draws for ceremony and pageantry, but could easily be avoided. No question but that they are bloody affairs. (My husband referred to one trip as four funerals and a wedding.)

I would think that you would still find much of interest: the burial sites, the architecture, the arts and crafts, and the profound natural beauty.

If you wish to go to North Sulawesi you have to go back to Makassar and fly to Manado. There are also non-stop flights from Singapore. The marine life and inland nature preserves are astounding. I especially like the Kungkungan Bay Resort.

I was in Tana Toraja about 3 years ago, during Ramadan. No problems whatsoever with guides, transport, etc. I did end up at a funeral, which I could have done without, but the scenery is fantastic, as are the villages, tombs, etc.

Agree that you absolutely, positively do not want to drive. You do want to get a local guide. I had a guy that grew up in the area, and knew everybody. The itinerary changed slightly depended on what he picked up from friends he met on the road.

Hi there,new in here.Though have been going thru the forum for some time now.
Was in N.Sulawesi in March this year.Spent 2 weeks.Incredible place.Flew in from KL on Airasia to Manado.Stayed 3N on Bunaken Island & 2N in Siladen,great for scuba,so was the Lembeh Straits.Amazing reefs.Another 4N in the highlands-Tomohon.Stayed at a resort called Lokon Boutique Resort,which overlooks the active Lokon volcano.The Tongkoko nationak park,went trekking and had the opportunity to see Tarsiers ( worlds smallest primates ).N.Sulawesi is superb.Can provide more specific info if anyone needs.

inquest nice to see you posting here.

Would like to hear more about the trekking and did you book everything yourself or go through an agent?

Any informative websites you'd like to share?

What about prices; are daily expenses like food, transportation, etc on the cheap side?

inquest, thanks for the tip on the Lokon Resort. Looking at the photos on their website reminded me how much I like North Sulawesi -- it's so fresh and orderly. I really enjoyed our daytrip to Tangkoko and always meant to do an overnight there. Never did see any tarsiers but the hornbills and larger primates (I think they were macaques)were fabulous.

Well, now you're got me very interested. One more question - we do not dive but do trek so we would also like to hear more about your trekking.

Thank you all for taking the time to post and entice me!

In fact,N.Sulawesi,took me completely by surprise.With very little info (mainly LP guide book,a little research online),I booked myself a ticket on Airasia from KL.The flght itself was around 3hrs.The window seat was mesmerising.Reasonably clear day.The aircraft flew over Borneo(Sabah,refreshed my memory of my '07 trip there)the emerald ocean below dotted with islands,got my adrenalin pumping.As we decended on N.Sulawesi,reefs & sandy beaches were visible a cloud cover,then suddenly the city of Manado came into view.I knew I would spend the next 2 fantastic weeks in this paradise.I did'nt know what to expect.Landed at a quaint little airport.A quick baggage claim & customs clearence,I was standind outside being pestered by the the taxi men.Bought myself a local SIM card.
I had booked myself at Minahasa Hotel(online again) in town for 2Ns.Called them up to counter verify the fare & reconfirm reservation.Set off on a 45min drive into town.
The hotel itself was lovely,set on a hillside,in town,overlooking the bay on oneside & a view of Mt Lokon on the other.Settled down with a gin & tonic,some tourism brochures which I picked up at the airport,chalking out a plan for the next 2 weeks.
www.hotelminahasa.com
Rated as one of the top 10 dive site in the world, Bunaken island,less than an hr speedboat ride away, would be my next experience.Stayed with Two Fish Dive Resort.Lovely people.Very hospitable.Going to great lengths to make you comfortable.This place is full of professional divers.Eat, drink & sleep-diving.Infact the conversation on the dining table is about what each experienced that day (non-divers will feel like fish out of water).Though I dive for 'recreation',not really in their league.A young Japanese girl was my 'dive master' for the next couple of days.4 dives in all.Encountered spectacular palette of reef & walls of adorned with hard & soft corals.Intense marine life so fascinating that one would'nt want to resurface.The 3rd day took me to Lembeh Straits for 'muck diving'.Critters so wierd & wonderful,I had to pinch myself it believe it.
The resort itself is quite comfortable.A cottage with sitout & a hammock,comfy bed & mosquito net,nice clean loo partly open to sky,was my abode for the next couple of days.What I missed most was the aircon.Its hot & humid (remember its a beach resort bang on the equator!!).Snorkeling in house reef & cold beer,brouht some welcome relief.
www.twofishdivers.com
Decided to treat myself to a little more luxury.
Enter Siladen Resort & Spa.Absolutely gorgeous.Did nothing other than laze around.Felt like a castaway who would'nt want to be saved.Spoilt myself at the Spa.Tried all treatments,whether I needed it or not.....Bliss!

sorry running out of time for now....to be con'td.

Sincere apologies.A newbie not deft on the keyboard. Pl condone my typo errors.Promise to learn on the job.
To answer some of your queries:
Offwego;Great opportunities for trekking.primarily in Tongkoko & Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park,though I could'nt go to the latter.These rain forests hold some of the most amazing creatures evolutions has to offer.The Maleo bird,which dig pits in warm volcanic soil, near hot springs or on beaches to lay their gigantic eggs.The two cuscus species, bear cuscus and dwarf cuscus-strange marsupials(very rare),the tarsiers(saw it),Hornbill(saw it)& the macaques(saw it too)and a facinating variety of birds.
It was an overnight trek into the forest,the rangers take you to designated areas where you can expect to find the Maleo birds.I had the opportunity of seeing one.Extremely shy.We had to wait for over 4 hrs by a 'nest' before getting a fleeting glimpes of one(sensed our presence & was gone before I got my camera into focus).Fun & futile.
A family of tarsiers,though,were a lot more accommodating.Hidden in a hollow of a tree trunk.With their big bulging eyes.Looked straight out of an alien si-fi movie.The stays at Tongkoko are basic.Be prepared to rough it out.Worth every penny.The trip from Manado took us a good 3hrs,thru a city on the east coast called Bitung,then past a dormant volcano.The rain forest simply decends into Lembeh Straits.The shores are black volcanic sand.A sight to behold.
Entry to the park is IRp 90,000/-.The round trip,overnight,in a private taxi,form Manado costed IRp 10,00,000/-(1U$D=IRp 10,600/- approx).Prices are surprisingly very resonable/cheap.
http://www.lombokmarine.com/tangkoko-national-park.htm

Marmot:Yes.They are the Crested Black Macaques.Witnessed a large tribe.Look very menacing with their large, canines.Infact,there are cases where many tourists have been attacked,inspite of warnings put up at the park headquarters.One of them (a large male) even walked straight up to me,sat near my leg,practically in contact, for a good min or so(seemed endless to me).I could feel the coarse bristle.I froze.Frankly,I felt numbness in my left leg for some time after it left.I've got some great pics & a short clip.
Impacked:N.Sulawesi is truely a divers paradise,most of the farangs on the aircraft,arrived with huge luggage obviously containing serious dive gear.Initially.I too was apprehensive when I landed in Bunaken(Though having dived in a lot of sites in the fareast,I consider myself an absolute novice).Surrounded by these pros,it was a bit unnerving.The staff made me feel very comfortable.I was very anxious on my first dive.Primarily the currents are very strong.I had the dive master with me all the time.
If you can swim you can snorkel.Dont miss out on it.The reef abound with marine life.My advise is 'go-for-it'.My partner,who was in the same predicament,had a great time snorkelling.
Will be happy to answer more questions.For now I've kept some brouchers,which I've got back with me,somewhere very safe.looking for them.Will provide all info soon.
...more to come...Tomohon & the highlands in detail...

Thank you, inquest for some first-hand info on Sulawesi. There isn't much on this board about it. I did a bit of research recently as I was thinking about it for this year, and could find relatively little on it. I do have the LP book, but felt like it just wasn't enough.

I'm looking forward to more of your report.

By the way, as you get more comfortable with this site, you might want to cut and paste your report into a new post and title and tag it as a trip report.

Kathie,though the LP has about 10-15 pages of info,most of it is outdated & has not been revised.Thanks,its a good suggestionthat I compile a trip report,title & tag it.I've found the fliers will get data out of it & post it as I continue my story..hope its of help to the fodorites.

A 3hr drive back to Manado,from Tongkoko,in the evening,strolled thru the streets,ending up at the Manado Town Square Hypermart.An upscale mall,had practically everything from saloons to lounge bars,food court,coffee shops,souvenir shops et al.Supped at the noodle Bar,back to Minahasa Hotel.
Took a taxi to the highland country.Not too far away barely 25km(took 1hr).Driving uphill,negotiating bends as we climbed the ambience changed.Fresh cool & crisp mountain air filled the lungs as we left behing the heat & humidity.Arrived at Tomohon-The city of Flowers.A picturesque little town.Practically every town house has a small patch of garden with a flower bed.Colorful & vibrant.There is one main street,about 4km long,that runs thru this town & everything can be found here.
Nestled inbetween 2 volcanos,Lokon& Mahawu,the fertility of Tomohon's soil is the reason for the booming agri business.
Arrived at the gates of the Lokon Boutique Resort.A sprawling over a hundred acre property,beautifully landscaped is right under the nose of the smoking Mt Lokon.Just stood there gaping,this was the closest I had come to a active volcano.The resort stretches to the base of the mountain.Ushered into the reception area.A welcome drink served by a pretty hostess.Minahasa hospitality is legendary.Gentle & warm,with a perpetual smile.
The reception,furnished with ornate wooden couches,wall adorned with artefacts seemed a cosy place to lounge,till the checkin formalites were over.
The property itself is huge.A golf buggy with our baggage & we in it,drove towards a trditional Minahasa Wooden cottage,built on stilts.A stairway led to a large porch,which overlooked the lawn(can all it a meadow),had a magnificent view of the smoking volcano.Well appointed suite,comfy kingsize bed,made up this place of ours for the next 4 nights.
A double large gin & tonic,I settled into the lounge chair.
....more to follow

Thanks, inquest!

Thanks, inquest. Did you come across hot springs?

Great post. I'm returning to North Sulawesi and the Kungkungan Bay Resort for more great scuba diving in the Lembeh Strait, but this makes me want to do some land exploring too. Last time I was in Makassar I wanted to visit Toraja, but didn't have enough time and heard it was quite a long drive. I could make the time this trip in October, but wondered if there is a best time of year for Toraja or not.
Any thoughts on this?

As I've mentioned earlier,diving in Lembeh is unique,unparalled & was one experience that I never expected.Out of this world.Strangest of strange marine life.Macro life forms that are baffling.Visibliblity is'nt good,maybe a few metres but what it holds is a treasure trove.
The season in Sulawesi is between April & Oct.Being in the tropics expect any thing.Cloud bursts are common.It clears as quickly as it arrives.Stay optimistic.You'll be rewarded.The only consideration is the dive environment.Climatic changes have a huge impact on ocean currents & visibility factor.Check with the dive school/resort you have booked with.
Toraja is a long haul overland either from Manado or Makassar.There are small aircrafts (18 seaters)flying out from both these places.Delays & cancellation are common.Make time for it.Have'nt been to Toraja.Would like to some day.

Please stop me in my tracks if you think I'm being boring, irrelavant or overly elaborate.
Cut back to the resort.My gin & tonic & the intoxicating mountain air had a heady effect on me.It was time for an afternoon siesta.
It was early evening when I met Monica.A petite girl in her mid 20s.Dressed in a business suit & designer eye-wear sitting on her pretty nose,introduced herself,enquiring about my well-being and comfort level in my cottage & so on.Spoke fluent english.She happened to be the owner of the resort.
Educated in the US.She had chucked up a career to manage this place started by her father years ago.She told me of the years of neglect & the effort that had gone into bringing it back to its present form,as it was no easy task.Found her very enterprising.
On Monica's advise,the next morning,I booked a taxi from the resort to take me around the sights of highland district.
My first objective was to climb a volcano.Lokon was ruled out as it was too dangerous.The department of volcanology had put out a warning for anyone attempting to climb.
I was left with Mt Mahawu.No choice but to settle for the second best.It was'nt really a trek.Setting of a wee late in the morning,our taxi meandered thru green fields & brought us almost to the top of the mountain.A 15min walk up a path and steps got us to the rim of the volcano.Standing on the edge of the huge crater,could see the beautiful cauldron with a bubbling greenish blue sulphur pool.Pondering about its past history,eruptions,extent of damage,number of lives lost to its fury.All in admiration.Photo ops & time to move on.
We were on our way to Lake Tondano,an hr drive away,was visible from the mountain top,tucked away between a hilly terrain, a massive body of water.Set off in that direction.Drove past quaint little villages,little cottages with colorful flower beds & frolicking children.Here time stood still.
As we passed a large town,a dilapitated ancient looking traditional wooden house caught my eye.Stopped the taxi to explore.The gates were locked.Jumped over the low walls & walked towards a rusted sign board which indicated it was built sometime in the late 1800s.Happened to be the residence of a local chieftain.Must have seen its glorious days,it was now lying in neglect.The main door would'nt open or rather never been open for a long time,had to climb thru a shutterless window.Admiring the interiors as I walked past into the main hall,was in for a surprise.Whale bones scattered everywhere.Spinal discs,ribs,jawbone strewn about.Could'nt get the answer to the history nor the mystery of the place,my driver-cum-guide spoke a very little english.Unresolved,Enigmatic,time to move on.Early breakfast had started have its effects.Pangs of hunger.Next halt.Lake Tondano.
...shall continue

susncrg, I'm glad that Kungkungan is still as wonderful as I remember it. When my son was in school in Indonesia we dived there several times but I haven't been back recently.

What I liked best was the understated aesthetic of the resort itself as well as the profound natural beauty. I'm a neophyte diver and still enjoy snorkling a lot. Being able to walk in from the beach in front of my bungalow for both snorkling and SCUBA was phenomenal. There are dive sites within a few minutes boatride at all levels of expertise and there were always marine specialists -- biologists, photographers, travel writers -- who gave slide shows in the evenings.

Tangkoko is a few hours drive from Kungkungan. It makes an easy day trip -- or an overnight adventure.

I've only been to Toraja in May and August so I'm not sure if there's a rainy season. Because most of the European tourists come through in northern hemisphere summer, they tend to save up the funeral ceremonies until August. I know this sounds odd, but some of the deceased are preserved for years while the family accumlulates the requisite buffalos and pigs.

As I remember Toraja (or the main town Ranpao) is several hours drive from Makassar. I would think that it would be much much farther from Manado, or maybe not even accessible by road. As inquest said, flights are sometimes available but very unreliable.

Narrrow roads from Tondano town leads to the lake & it encompasses it.The lake itself was beautiful.Villages along the shore.Most of them into fish farming.Hunger distracted me.Indicated to my guide that I have to appease my tummy as all my senses were focused it.
'Gofis'?'gofis'very very goood'said my guide.'Goood restora,this'he said,pointing to one on the shores of the lake.I nodded to everything he said.Entered the restaurant.Ushered in by a hostess.He excitedly spoke to her.She led us to a dining area buily on stilts over the water.Absolutely fantastic it was.As we walked the ramp/pier towards the tables,I noticed on either side were fish nets hung by poles where fish were farmed.My man took me to one of them & as excited as before again said 'Gofis'??.Right below me were a school of massive Goldfish swimming aroung.Horror.Panic.'No'.'Nooo way'I said.
I could only perceive it as an ornamental fish gracefully gliding around in an aquarium & cetrain not in a grilled form on my plate!!
I could sense a lot of disappointment in him.He seemed crestfallen.Cheered him up and invited him to help me pick a fish from another net,what looked like pomfrets swimming around.Safe I said to myself.
One of the boys,grabbed a long pole with the fish net at the end of it & walked along the support structure,picked a big fish out for me.Turned to me for acknowledgement.I visualizesd it grilled on my plate.I nodded.
He grabbed the fish,with one quick swing,hit it against the pole,killing it instantly.
I went over to the kitchen,asked permission to witness their culinary skills.Sauted onions & tomatos,herbs and a liberal garnishing of red hot peppers,my dish served with cooked water spinach & rice, looked irresistible.Gorged on it.Thanked the hostess.Time to move on.
The Minahasa cuisine is a fantastic,spicy a hell,tasty-feel you've died and gone to heaven!The details of the culinary expertise shall be descibed in detail latter.On our way to Lake Linow....to follow..

Nothing you have written is irrelevant or overly elaborate. I want all the details!

I'm loving it all!

Inquest, your descriptions are great! And Marmot (excuse me for hijacking this once again) thanks. I remembered that they saved up the funerals in Toraja, but couldn't remember for when. Since our Manado flight usually has a stop in Ujang Padang (Makassar) we'd go from there. And yes KBR is still great. As diving is my passion, once you've dived in Indonesia, it's pretty much all over. If you get the chance to go again, by all means do.

Thanks everyone:)As kathie suggested,I'll complete my story here, cut & paste it,tag it under a new head.I've found some fliers which has the 'latest info' on food,eating out,culture & costs in N.Sulawesi.Will post it in the end with web links.
A rather busy weekend.Kindly bear with me.Will be back on Monday to continue.

Great! I'll look forward to more on Monday.

What a wonderful way to beat the Monday morning blues!!Recalling & reliving a holiday.Beleive me,its quite a de-stresser.
Lake Linow is on the way back to Tomohon,from Tondano.Driving pass terraced fields,villages, mountainous terrain,the aircon,had a lulling effect,especially after a meal like that.I was dozing off.Eventually did,I think,got 40 winks.A bumpy road woke me up.A narrow mud road led to a valley.As we arrived at the gates of what looked like a private property,got the first glimpse of a greenish-blue body of water.There is an entrance fee (Approx IRp 10,000/- per pax).This included a hot cup of Mocca.There is a small cafeteria with a sit-out overlooking the lake.We took our table.The cloud cover opened out.The rays of sun seemed to light up the lake.It suddenly changed color in patches.The perfectly turquoise blue lake seemed to change to a streak rust red towards the middle & the far end.Eerily strange.
Coffee with some cookies.Spent about an hr,wandering around the lake.Hot water bubbling on the shores.Could never seem understand this marvel of nature.
Next stop.Ranopaso Hot Springs.A short drive,we stopped by a gate on the roadside.A small kiosk,selling knick-knacks,also doubled up as a toll.IRp 5000/- per person.Steps bring you to bubbling springs.Pores in the earth seemed to spew hot water.Hot enough to scald.The air was thick with the smell of rotten eggs.My guide insisted that I take a bath,claimed it would be therapeutic.All I had was a small hand-towel.Big enough,it just wrapped aorund my waist.Walked into a a small bathroom.Inside was a spout where the water from the man-made pool behind,fed it.The water was hot.Though not to the point of burning.A soak for 5min a I was out.The rest of the evening I was smelling of sulphur.
On our way to the Waruga.Located in Airmadidi is an ancient pre-historic cemetery....

As we pass the village of Sawangan,a narrow mud road leads to a stone archway.As we walk in,on either side are the 'Warugas' or stone sarcophagi.Square stone hollow structures where the dead,of the megalithic age are buried in a foetal sitting position.Mysterious drawings,geometrical motifs,scripts & animal figures are engraved on the tombs Buried along with the dead are plates, bowls, and the types of other ceramics articles,bracelets, necklaces & knives.All these are on display in a small museum in the same premises.
The caretaker opened up the shelf full of these.Pulled out some of the articles,inviting us to handle & examine them closely.We politely declined.This made me wonder as to how much could have been lost/stolen.What was the Dept of archeology doing.Ancient incalculable wealth, in the hands of an ignorant man!!
It was getting dark.Quite an adverture for one day.Decided to get back to our resort...

Early supper,out came my single malt on the porch.Downloaded all the pictures(including the backlog)on to my laptop.A review & off to bed.
The following day,decided to go to the traditional(jungle ) market in Tomohon.Heard a lot about it.A 5min walk from the resort brings you to the main road,that runs thru town.Local trans port is the 'Microlet', a small van,with a sliding door on the side.Its a hop-on-hop-off.Will stop anywhere required.Approx IRP 5000/- for 2km or more ride.While waiting of one a horse cart came by.Colorfully decorated.Thought it would be interesting to ride one into the market,bargained heavy with the driver & hopped on.
Onto side roads & bylanes,arrived at the the market place.Sacks of rice,fresh vegetables,red hot chillies,spices,condiments,rows & rows of them.Wandering in,we came across the meat stalls.On display were dogs in cages,bats neatly displayed,large bamboo rats,snake & wild pig.Dog meat for RW Cooking,Bat meat for Paniki cooking.
Should be able to stomach all this or my advise is simply dont go.
More than 90% of the population are christians,their dietary habits & culture are very different from the rest of Indo.Quite religious.One can see churches practically every 200m in large towns.Weddings are a lavish affair.More like the ones back home.Elaborate bridal gowns,grooms in designer suits often posing for a wedding photo outside the church is a common sight.
Fun loving too.They need no reason to party.
Wandered around town,traditional Minahasa lunch (read-no bats,cats,dogs or rats)in a small restaurant.Washed it down with local beer.
Decided to head to the Alam Spa at the Highland resort.Treated my self to a Aromatherapy & Traditional Balinese Massage.Dont recall most of it because I seemed to have dozed off mid way.
Gently woken up.Made my way back to my resort.

A good cup of coffee was invigorating.Decided to go for swim.The pool.Almost olympic size,is a reasonable walk from the residential area.A buggy on request would transport you.I choose to walk.The winding metalled road takes you thru lovely,landscaped undulating topography.Gushing streams,rock gardens makes up a large part of this property.Actually at the base of Mt Lokon is this enormous infinity pool.the view is breath taking.A hr into swimming,reluctant to leave.The setting sun & a long walk back,prompted me to get out.
An evening of leisure.Talking to locals,their folklore,customs & lifestyle-time flew by.
The next day,back into town,wandering the streets of Tomohon.
A discount offer in an opticians show-window got me interested.On display were branded eyewear.You name it-Dolce & Gabbana ,Prada ,Gucci ,Christian Dior ,Ray Ban
Oakley ,Smith ,Chanel ,Versace???Well..well it said upto 50% off.A free eye check thrown in(& why not if you were paying for the brands).Over a hr in front of the mirror,Did'nt leave a single pair of specs out of sight.Realized the salesman's patience wearing thin.You see, my face is'nt exactly cutout for over 95% of what was available.The few that I thought suited me were exhorbitant.Mind you.I'm just looking out for a pair of reading glasses.D&G-original price tag Irp 15,50,000.I could'nt haggle now.The man across looked tired,I threw a 'be compassionate with me' look.Seemed to work.The original 25% off was corrected to 30% off!!Deal! I thought.
Paid up.
What followed was 'post purchase anxiety'.A sense of guilt.Did I really need it?Is it worth it?That much spent for as much as for reading?
The solution was simple.A large single malt & an hr in front of the mirror,back in resort soon had me gloating over my 'taste' for finer things.Did'nt take it off the rest of the evening.
My stay in Lokon Boutique Resort wa scoming to an end.
http://www.lokonresort.com/about_us.html
Next day..a cab to Manado...

lol about your glasses experience.

This report is just great.

Thanks Kathie,your encouragement is egging me on.Apologies.My busy schedule at work has delayed my 'arrival'at manado.It was just a 45min drive from Tomohon,down-hill.
I had booked in Minahasa hotel as I had grown fond of the place,friendly staff.Small & comfortable,minus the formalness of many a big hotel/resort.This time it was an upgrade from the superior to the President Suite.As I had mentioned earlier,the whole property is on the hill-side,the President suite (2 of them)is right on top.Well appointed,luxurious bathroom with added pizazz,elegantly furnished bedroom & to top it all,curtains drawn,you wake up to a grand view of the Manado bay.In front,a patio and a small pool( can call it infinity) with a sunk in bar.Though this pool is not exclusive (open to all the guests),there were hardly anyone using it.The only drawback was the climb there from the cottages below.This would be the base to check out the city.
I'm not fond of cities at all.I would avoid them if possible or just use them as transit points.This time around it was the same.As I didnt have a fixed plan from the begining,nor was I on a conducted tour,with a lot of time on hand,decided to keep Manado to the end.
Its is picturisque.Surrounded by mountain on one side & the blue sea on the other,basically a transit point to other destinations.A main Boulevard has all the trappings of other cities-Malls,restaurants,hotels and so on.My only interest her was to explore the culinary delights of Sulawesi.
Manadonese food fits into any budget depending on the place.Breakfast is usually 'Nasi Kunning ' or 'yellow rice'.This is rice cooked in coconut milk,some chopped garlic ,baby onions,lemon grass & saffron.Sprinkled over it is a dry indo condiment called 'Ambon'whose main ingredient is tuna,scrambled eggs & brown baby onions.
Some local terminology:Beef-'daging',chicken-'ayam',fish-'ikan',Shrimp/prawn-udang,crab-kepiting,pork-'babi'.These constitute the integral part of all cooking.
One will never run out of choice-Roasted pork (sate babi), tinoransak (pork with hot spice), redbean soup, chicken in coconut milk (santan)
Abundant in fresh seafood like squid,prawn,crab & fish, either cooked,grilled or batter fried.It is served with raw chilly garnish called dabu dabu,made of little red chilly peppers,little red tomatoes,small purple onions & tangy,green skin fruit called 'Belimbing'& some white rice.
Some of the places I tried were Raja Satay on Jalan Pierre Tendean,down town Manado,on the boulevard.A choice of grilled meat or seafood served on small table top barbeques.A tastefully decorated with natural meterial like bamboo palm leaf & small fish ponds.Superb.
Sweet Basil,a bit out of town was good.Thai,Indo & Chinese was enjoyable.
Wander around,you'll find one every corner,one better than the other.Only requirement-Must be able to stomach the spice.
coming up....Spas & Resorts...

The Presidential Suite, huh? Very good!

There are a host of resorts.Some of these highend ones are out of town.One better than the other.You're spoilt for choice.
The few listed in the broucher-
Santika a sea-side resort.Tasik Ria-South of Manado is fantastic.Though did'nt stay,did do lunch there one day.
Kima Bajo Spa & Resort in Wori Bay.Fantastic.Upscale boutique property.An hrs drive,north of Manado.Dined there only. http://www.kimabajo.com/
Minahasa Lagoon Resort:http://www.minahasalagoon.com/
Sedona Hotel:http://www.siladen.com/main_uk.asp

The island resorts are-
Gangga Island resort;http://www.ganggaisland.com/
Siladen Island Resort & Spa,on the island of Siladen,in Bunaken National Marine Park :http://www.siladen.com/main_uk.asp

If one wishes to stay in town-
Minahasa Hotel,
Hotel Gran Puri:http://www.granpuri.com/
Ritzy Hotel: http://www.ritzymanado.com/

I've spent quite a bit of time in northern Sulawesi (flying in and out of Manado) and highly recommend the area. This is a relatively safe part of Indonesia, and very beautiful.

The most direct way there is the Silk Air flight from Singapore to Manado, though it doesn't fly every day.

If you want to get out of the heat, head up into the mountains to the town of Tomohon, which is absolutely beautiful, and quite cool.

Lokon Boutique Resort is a nice place to stay, overlooking the beautiful Lokon volcano. For those interested, here's a short video showing steam coming out of this volcano & the short hike to get there: http://vimeo.com/3968104

There's also Mahawu Crater, which is an even easier hike. Here's a panorama photo I took there: http://focus.tracinglight.com/photos/51/Mahawu_Crater/

Just found this TR, and can only say thank you <b>thank you THANK YOU!</b> Great info and great fun to read. :-)

I think @inquest cut and pasted info on his/her visit into another thread to give us a separate trip report, but a thorough search didn't find it. So I have asked the mods to mark this as a trip report, as I want all of this valuable information to be readily available.

I still think about trying to get to Sulawesi one day...

Thanks, Kathie -- it does sound wonderful, doesn't it?