Suggestions for Bali in June
 

We're two middle-aged Australians (in my case, if you count 60 as the new 40), spending two weeks in Bali from 17 June. We're thinking of splitting our time between the coast and Ubud, supplemented by 2-3 days touring with a private guide, but at this stage we're reluctant to lock ourselves into an inflexible timetable and hotel bookings.

Having said that, if we hear some positive reviews of particular properties we could change our minds about that. We're looking at mid-priced places, leaning towards the traditional rather than standard hotel model, comfortable, with room to spread out, offering breakfast and somewhere to get a regular coffee fix. And preferably somewhere that doesn't charge a big premium for booking ahead by comparison with what could be negotiated on the spot. I'm assuming somewhere in the US$50-100 range will cover us, but we'll happily pay less for the right property :)

As boozy backpackers and noisy nightclubs can be found at home easily enough we plan to give Kuta a wide berth. Nor do we want to be locked away in a tourist ghetto remote from ordinary Balinese living. Comfortable mid-priced accommodation and proximity to town life with access to cultural and dining options, including galleries and markets, are high on the agenda. We're fans of Indonesian food, and a cooking class would be a nice option. And ever since hearing a recording of the Monkey Dance many years ago I've wanted to see a performance complete with gamelan orchestra, of course.

So: we're thinking of spending a night or maybe two in Denpasar (pre-booked), the rest of that week in Sanur, then the second week in Ubud. More or less. Does this sound like a reasonable plan? Any and all comments would be appreciated, including recommendations for accommodation. I already have some kind Fodorites' comments as to guides. We have a Lonely Planet guidebook, but of course personal feedback is always a good thing to have.

Firstly, I think you're under a big mis-conception about pre-booking. In most tourist destinations around Southeast Asia, walk-in rates tend to be rather dear. There's always a chance of getting a good deal in the low season, but in the high season, it's a pretty foolish expectation.

June is not only the beginning of the high season, it's also the Indonesian school holiday time. Accommodations on Bali, especially inexpensive ones, are going to be booked up well in advance. If you book through one of the popular discount booking sites (Agoda, R-24, etc.), you'll get a good deal.

With that said, I'm wondering why you would spend a night or two in Denpasar, rather than traveling the extra 10 minutes to Sanur. I'm not even sure there are hotels in Denpasar. If you want something close to the airport for your first night, then you should be looking in Tuban. The Harris is a nice place in your price range (sort of early 70s mod meets Bali).

I definitely agree that Sanur is probably the best choice for the beach portion of your holiday. There are quite a few places right on the beach that fit your price range. Have a look at La Taverna, for example. The main road behind the beach has lots of nice restaurants, ranging from cheap to not so cheap, and I don't recall seeing one drunken yabo the whole time I was there.

I don't know about Sanur, but there are definitely cooking schools in Ubud.

try Gazebo Hotel ( www.baligazebo.com )on Sanur (beach) - we always book in advance and pay by credit card on departure

Restaurants are along the beach and the hotel serves coffee (bali style)

Relaxing massages also available on the beach by the market

good choice with sanur....i stayed at the hyatt for a very cheap price and it is easy to walk to dining and shopping from there...there are many other places as well...

i would have everything booked prior to arrival in june....pre-booking does not have to mean pre-paying....

For your stay in Ubud try looking at the T-houses http://www.tonysthouse.com/balit/rental.php . They are located just outside Ubud and have nice houses with maid service for very resonable prices. We have been there several times and always loved the friendly atmosphere and the secluded location.

Look at Alam Sari in Keliki, just outside of Ubud proper. www.alamsari.com We loved our time there, booking is best priced directly, with no prepayment, and absolutely flexible. If you e-mail the owners via their website they can help you arrange your stay. On their staff is an outstanding guide, Dewa. They offer lots in terms of day trips, activities and classes. It looks just like the photos on the website...in fact, some of the photos of the classes are ones that I took when we were there. It sounds to be just what you are looking for in terms of being part of Bali life rather than a spectator.

Neil, I thought 60 was the new 30! :)

Two places that I would heartily recommend, both favorites with the expat community in Jakarta.

In Ubud: Ketut's. It's right in town but has quiet secluded grounds. Ketut and his family are a goldmine of cultural information. They'll organize all kinds of activities, cook for you, take you to their home, really take care of you.

I'd also say don't miss the Kecak (Monkey dance) in Junganan village. The village organization will pick you up at the Ubud Info Center and drop you off after the performance.

Alam Sari is a really nice place as well, though it's a bit isolated.

At the beach I really like the Sofitel. It's right on a good swimming beach with spacious grounds, good food, nice pools and is very convenient to shops and restaurants in the Seminyak area.

By all means, ditch Denpasar!

Neil
The recommendation to ditch Denpasar is a good one -- everything on the south end of Bali is relatively close to everything else -- if you want to go in to the markets or the museum in Denpasar you could cab in from Sanur, spend part of a day wandering around I would think, cab back out.
The better guide/drivers will be booked if you don't set something up before hand. I can understand not wanting to be locked in -- what I ended up doing was picking 4 days out of my ten (including our two to/Ubud and back days) and then working with Dean to plan an itinerary for those days once we were there. That definitely gave us enough "driver time" to cover things we needed a driver to get to.
Also, if you contact a guide/driver, they will know about possible festivals (not that you won't just happen on them anyway) and you could plan that way too.
The tourist office in Ubud marmot mentioned also posts information on area weddings and cremations that tourists can attend, complete with transportation. We did not do this but they seemed particularly knowledgeable and helpful and the prices were quite cheap.
Have a great time !

You've all been very helpful - many thanks.

You should also consider Alam Jiwa right outside Ubud. It's a bit of walk to town (through the monkey forest), but they have a free shuttle. I stayed there for 7 days about 2 weeks ago and loved it. The staff is amazing--really some of the nicest, most interesting people i've encountered. The grounds are absolutley stunning. The family that owns Alam Jiwa owns a few others nearby-Alam Shanti and Alam Indah. Those are a few minutes closer to town and also offer a shuttle service. I also stayed at Ketut's place for 2 nights. They are lovely people, as well,and Ketut's Place is much closer to the dining/shopping part of town (about a 10 minute walk to the palace). If you don't stay at Ketut's, you should definitely at least go to the Balinese feast there, and maybe their new spa (i didn't try the spa, but looked around--from the massage beds, you can hear the river rushing by!). Ketut also participates in his local Kecak dance--he'll give you the info if you ask. I saw the Kecak dance at the Ulu Watu temple on the southern coast, and it was spectacular--you can't beat the location--the temple and dance venue is perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean, and you see the sun set during the performance. It was very touristy, as was much of the dancing i saw, but quite still amazing. The Ulu Watu temple is an easy drive from Sanur, or less than 2 hours from Ubud (i think--i know i saw lots of advertisements for day trips that included Ulu Watu). Enjoy Bali!