CaliNurse

Adding to your fellow Fodies good wishes---glad you both feel good and are enjoying this part of your trip!!!
What is name of village where you saw meditation center? Gotta put it on "the list"!!

tripplanner001

Thank you June. Like you I sometimes go for fast food out of curiosity and also to have something other than the local grub.

dgunbug

What an amazing day! After leaving Madurai we heads for incredible Tiruchirappalli, known more commonly as Trichy. The ride was approximately two hours on good roads. We were surprised to learn how large Trichy is with its mix of modern looking apartments and roadside shacks. The real surprise though was the Ranganathaswamy Temple which is dictated to the Hindu god Vishnu. Passing through a long street with shops one passes through the 4 gopurams which are the colorful and ornately sculptured towers, until one reaches the temple. To reach the inner sanctum, one must pass through 7 gopurams in total, but non Hindus are not permitted past the 6th. Each time we pass through a tower, we were stunned to see another at the end of the street. The people, colors and activities on the street all made for excellent picture taking and again, many people asked for their photos to be taken. We witnessed food being prepared, people eating, free food being distributed to the poor, and shopping. Cows, goats, tuk tuks, scooters, and bicycles shared the streets with pedestrians. It was all very lively.

There was much more to see in Trichy, but the heat was oppressive and my husband's knee issues prohibited us from seeing more, much to my frustration. We passed the Rockford upon which are many temples, but both my driver and husband wanted to move on. There are many temples and things to see in Trichy and IMO it deserves an overnight to see it properly. This is the India that I have been dreaming about.

We stopped along the way for a shared lunch with our driver and I enjoyed the delicious rice dish and spicy side of fried cauliflower.

We arrived at our hotel in Thanjavur, formerly known as Tanjore, which is right in the center of the city near the market. We decided to rest for an hour and go back out at 4:30 when it starts to cool off a bit. We also needed to recharge batteries, ours included.

The hotel is our worse so far, a bit old and it smells terribly of bug spray. The further north we go, the harder the beds...but this is India and what we had expected (minus the awful smell). The biggest frustration is the poor internet that is not working now. Hopefully it will work later.

Upon entering the town of Tanjore, we passed the amazing looking Brihadeeswar Temple, the highlight of a visit here. While it looks entirely different from the prior temples we have seen, it looks no less amazing and I'm itching to get out begin exploring. More later...

Calinurse - I will have to ask driver tomorrow for name of village.

dgunbug

Another fabulous temple...what a great day! The Brihadeeswar temple is totally different than the one we saw in Trichy. This one was not colorful and it reminded us of temples we had seen in Siem reap. I'm afraid I can't say which was more stunning. Again, we were the main attraction for many of the local Indians who asked us to pose with them for their pictures. Fun was had by all. I ordinarily like to see temples and sights when they are clear of people, but the beautifully adorned woman in saris make for great photography. We stayed at the huge temple complex for close to two hours,

Afterward we returned to the hotel, dropped off the car and went for a stroll in the market with our driver. We were delighted to find jackfruit which I had originally discovered in Thailand and I have been dreaming of finding some since we arrived in India. We purchased an entire jackfruit which yields quite a bit of fruit and watched as the vendor cut it for us. We will have jackfruit over the next few days.

We returned to our hotel and invited our driver for dinner. While I was really not hungry after eating so much fruit, we wanted to offer him a meal. My husband who is not really fond of the Indian food, ordered ice cream, while our driver ordered enough food to share with me. We had aloo parantha (bread with potato) and a creamy sweet buttery dish with Kafta (a vegetarian dough ball). All very delicious - unfortunately a ton of carbs, but I was a happy camper.

We are continuing to enjoy ourselves, but for now I will get ready for bed and an early start tomorrow.

thursdaysd

Sorry to hear about the bad hotel. I totally failed to find a hotel in Tanjore and did it the other way round - sleeping in Trichy and visiting the Brihadishwara temple in Tanjore on the way to the next stop. Loved the Tanjore temple, plus no barriers to non-Hindus. (It looks different because it's older.) Some of the carving reminded me of the Champa carving in SEA, no doubt due to the trading links with this part of India.

progol

dgunbug- So glad to hear that you're back to enjoying the trip, despite a poor hotel. It's great to hear about the smaller towns and the different temples, especially reading about the sights and sounds of the activities taking place in the temple and on the streets. Loved that you were "the main attraction" with people asking you to pose with them -- my husband has a striking mustache and he was a huge hit in Rajasthan!

rje -- great story about the camera though it is too bad that you were unable to use it after all. I'm looking forward to viewing the photos from this trip!

tripplanner001

The temples sound amazing. This is the India dream about.

rje

dgunbug,
I''m really happy to hear you enjoyed the Tamil Nadu temples! They are truly amazing! I thought that they would turn the tide for you! And I think you're really going to enjoy the rest of your trip.

Now <i>please</i> make sure tomorrow (as you leave Tanjore on your way to Pondicherry) that you tell your driver to take you to the incredible temple I wrote about earlier in this thread, which is a UNESCO World Heritage monument. It is an absolute gem, different from the other temples you've seen, and is called the Darasuram Airavateswara temple. Darasuram is the name of the very small town it is near, and your driver should know it. We were there a few weeks ago, and it was as un-touristed now as it was when I was last there in 2008. As then, the only people besides us were the priests and a few women worshiping. It is a joy being in a living temple, with local people. You'll feel like you're really in India - the India of hundreds of years ago. It is as beautiful inside as it is outside. I had a chance to speak to one of the priests, and he even showed us some areas we'd never have known to go inside. Make sure you get a good look at the stone carved chariot at the bottom of one of the staircases.

If you leave Tanjore in the morning, you'll probably want lunch after the Darasuram Airavateswara temple. A convenient and pleasant stop is the Paradise Resort near Kumbakonam. They have a garden, but if it is hot, the ceiling fans on the covered wood porch should be enough to keep you cool. The food is good, although not great, but it is clean, quiet, and let's face it - you won't exactly be drowning in choices during that drive!

Afterwards, you'll be extremely close to the Gangaikondacholapuram temple, which is another amazing temple. It is <i>really</i> worth it, even if you only make a brief stop (refer to what I wrote earlier in this thread).

Am I perhaps being pushy now? Maybe yes. But am I giving you good (and current) advice? Absolutely!

And later, if you want some recommendations for Pondicherry, let me know, as I'll be continuing to enjoy your trip report!

dgunbug

Rje - I would love any recommendations you have to offer and am grateful for your suggestions you've already given. We are going to pass on the palace here in town as it sounds more like just a museum and we want enough time for the temples you recommended. Thanks again to all who've come before making suggestions. Always appreciated!

CaliNurse

Wow, what a difference a day or two makes!!
Sooo glad you're enjoying, Dgun!!! I am learning much from your TN temple and town descriptions! Gentle reminder to ask your driver the name of place with meditation center.

I've always hoped one day to stop in Trichy as it is the birthplace and home base of the travel planning agency that's steered me right so often--it may sound silly, but it would be fun to meet and say thanks in person! Reading Dgunbug 's description of the city's atmosphere and temple , am more eager than ever to make an overnight stop there.

Rje--thank you, thank you!!!!!!!! Keep being "pushy " and pushing us all toward wonderful places in Southern India (and anywhere else you've been) . I love the enthusiastic detail of your recommendations ! Don't stop!!

A few comments/possibilities for future (mine and others)travel:

1. From people I know who've been, the only place to stay in Tanjore is a bit out of the center--Ideal River View Resort. For those planning to spend the night in Tanjore , check it out--I intend to when there next yr (fingers crossed) if requiring an overnight in the city.

2. RJE, did you happen to pass the indeco swamimalai hotel, also near kumbakonam which you mentioned as a good lunch stop? A friend stayed overnight at the Swamimalai,loved it, said it's its own tiny village. Might be yet another possible lunch stop, even if not staying, altho my mention is secondhand unlike rje's place which he directly knows.

Dreaming more than ever now of a return to the beautiful southern region

dgunbug

Forgot to mention...the shower water was cold and the refrigerator water was warm! The window in the bathroom was open with no way to close it. Thankfully there was a screen and no mosquitos, especially since my husband stopped taking his malerone yesterday. After realizing that his nausea was probably caused by the medicine and the fact that we are barely seeing mosquitos, he decided against taking it for the short duration of the trip. No more stomach issues. The internet only worked in the lobby...oh well. The nice thing was that the vegetarian restaurant's food as tasty.

This morning we left Madurai early as there were many stops that we wanted to make along the road and since we were told that the journey to Pondicherry is approximately 5-6 hours. Upon the advise of rje we stopped in the small village of Thirpunam Kindram and enjoyed our time walking around and taking photographs.

The day passed nicely as we watched the scenery unfold and listened to stories our driver told us. We passed villages and towns with mosques, temples and churches. Our driver advised us that approximately 40% of the population is Muslim and the people live in harmony. The people survive primarily from the agricultural industry and we passed many rice paddies along the way. This area of India is poorer and the people less educated than in Kerala. We saw chickens, cows, and many goats along the way. Our driver explained that people prefer the goat milk as it is richer and healthier. The weather in this area is a problem as the months of April, May and June are very dry. During this time the government often must provide water for the villagers to survive. The heavy monsoon rains come soon afterward and there is generally much flooding. We were told that dams must be built and better irrigation systems established.

Along the side of the road I saw an unusual bird which I was told was a Spotted King Fisher. It's brilliant colors were beautiful and I was delighted to get a picture of it.

We stopped at Kumbakunum where we witnessed people praying at small temples and then bathing at the nearby ghats. The men and women bathed in separate sections although I was not prohibited from going to the men's side. The women and children were fascinated to see us and again requested that we take their pictures. A few of the children were shy but others were anxious to talk to us. We were not ready to eat yet, so we moved on.

Driving along the road we witnessed towns and smaller villages with homes varying from small thatched huts made of palm and coconut leaves to concrete structures with tile roofs and brick buildings, some with thatched or metal roofs.

We stopped in the very interesting village of Darasuram, famous for the hand loomed saris and cloths and we loved the colorful homes along the street as well as the beautifully colored silk threads hung out to dry. The people along the streets were all welcoming. In front of many of the homes were the chalk drawings of flowers which people draw each day as a sign of purity and inspiration. At the end of the street was the fabulous Darasuram Airavates-wara Temple, which was from the Chola period dating back to the 12th century.

Nearby was the Kumbaswara Temple which was styled similar to the large Madurai temple with its beautiful colors. We were told that there are over 3000 temples in the state of Tamil Nadu. Almost every town has at least one temple and they are all stunning.

We stopped at another town - Seer Kaala, known for its beautiful temple and naada astrology. For a small sum, an astrologist can read your thumb print (naada is the thumb) and tell you your future. We passed on the astrological reading but enjoyed the temple.

We stopped for lunch at Seerkaali which was a nice hotel/restaurant with air conditioning and a good bathroom. For approximately $3.00 we had two meals (my husband declined to eat) and two beverages. The food was tasty and I am enjoying new foods with our driver.

Finally we left Tamil Nadu and entered into the state of Pondicherry. Arriving in the town of Pondicherry at 3:30, I will end this here for now in order to explore.

dgunbug

Calinurse - the village that we visited yesterday just outside of Madurai was Thirpunam Kundram.

I hope I've spelled all the names of temples and villages correctly!

progol

Fabulous, dgunbug! It's fascinating to read about the changes in your trip, now that you've entered Tamil Nadu. I, too, am loving this and want to hear all about the many towns and their temples -- and having lovely interactions with people going about their daily lives.

Again, what a relief to hear that you are both feeling better -- interesting that your husband was reacting to the malarone.

Thanks again for the live TR - it's great to be along for the ride!

annhig

dgunbug

thank you so much for your continued descriptions of your experiences - you are really making them come alive and I almost feel as if I'm there with you. if I never get to India, at least I'll feel that I know a little bit about what it's like to be there, from reading about your travels.

OReilly

Things appear to be looking up .

thank you for your continued efforts!

dgunbug

Thank you all for your positive comments. I've been discouraged in the past writing trip reports and having few responses that I considered not writing a report this time. it is gratifying to know that people are reading and enjoying my comments and I've found it so much easier to write while everything is so vivid on my mind.

After resting and catching up on emails, we walked across the street to the oceanfront and strolled along a bit. Our hotel is conveniently located right across from the boardwalk, but I was concerned to learn that there was no parking available for our driver. We are not certain where he ended up, but will hear about it tomorrow when he picks us up at 10 am. Behind the hotel is a food street market that had items I was tempted to try, but I was too much of a coward to try street food in India. It's fun though to see people about enjoying their evening.

We also visited the Sunday street market which was filled with people. I wanted to purchase some small items for our driver's baby and found several for him to give for her - a small stuffed animal, a squeaky toy and a small outfit which were so inexpensive by our own standards.

The weather was warm today, but the ocean breeze will make for a nice walk after dinner. Our trip is coming to an end and we are pleased to leave on a positive note. More later.

OReilly

"I've been discouraged in the past writing trip reports and having few responses"

I can understand that - been there.

However, there are often far more people reading than you think, and also reading long after you post your trip report. As in, before you started posting THIS trip report, I was reading your previous one (June & Mikes ..), together with other posters' reports (Julies, Thursdaysd ... et al), who are adding their comments here.

The 'on the ground' information is invaluable to me, planning a future trip, and I am grateful.

Best ... Ger

julies

You are encouraging me to think about another trip to India since we missed Tamil Nadu and Hampi on our last southern India trip. Now whether my husband will go along with the idea is another story....I am happy that you are liking it better and relieved for you that you are not overwhelmed by the heat like we were in Kerala.

Thinking back on what you wrote earlier in the trip about Kerala maybe being primarily a place to chill out, I think you were correct in some aspects. We are quite active people who do not go on journeys across the world just to sit and relax, so when planning our trip last year we made sure that there was actually something to do (walking, biking, historic or cultural sites visits, tours, a city to explore etc.)each day in most places we visited. Even when we added in days at the beach solely to escape the heat, we always spent at least a couple hours a day walking. So, for people who are reading June's trip report and planning their own trips, you need to take into account that some people choose to go to places like Kerala just to get away from bad winter weather and to have time to relax. When we were in southern India last year, we ran across plenty of people who fall into that category, so if you are someone who is not in that category, make sure whose advice you are following when planning a trip. On our trips we have found that making sure to include a large variety of activities and experiences is key to having a successful trip.

dgunbug

Julie - you are absolutely correct. Kerala is the place to chill and that's not what we intended. Combined with our illnesses at different times, my husband's mobility issues and our lack of bathing suits...we were in the wrong place. That's not to say there weren't times that we enjoyed ourselves and the scenery, but we we largely bored and slept a great deal. Perhaps if we weren't from Florida we would have enjoyed the tropical waters and scenery. We are not sorry that we saw this different side to India and I'm pleased to see that there are some areas in India where the people seem to have an easier and more prosperous lives...it just wasn't what we were expecting.

tripplanner001

June and Julies, I'm with you on travel style, which makes this discussion even more relevant and interesting to me as I fleetingly flirt with the idea of India. Similarly when we visited Sri Lanka last year we didn't focus on the beach areas at all and instead opted for places that would give us the best mix of temples, tea plantations, and hiking. Speaking of Sri Lanka, have either one of you visited? I'm curious at the comparison as it's the closest I've been to India.