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Old Dec 1st, 2006, 09:18 AM
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solo woman traveller

I'm planning to travel in Rajasthan by plane, maybe train and car and driver. May go alone or with another woman. Would love to hear how those travelling alone or in a pair enjoyed the experience. Thank you.
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Old Dec 1st, 2006, 02:14 PM
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Hi. I just returned from a solo trip to India. I used all modes of transportation, including plane, train, car and driver, rickshaw, taxi, bicycle and camel. Having all of your transportation pre arranged is key. Although travelling alone was not a problem, I would not have wanted to try and arrange transport as i went. I've travelled to many, many places alone and still found India a bit overwhelming. although I had a paid airline ticket, i was told my flight was full and did not make the flight. On overnight trains I would use 1AC. I originally thought 2AC would be more interesting and I would meet more locals, but upon inspection, I didn't really feel comfortable, as there is only a curtain for privacy (1AC has a door you can lock, even though you should keep in mind that you share the compartment with 3 other people which could be males and may be uncomfortable). I think you can request a female compartment, not sure. The car and driver is great. It's like being on your own personal tour. they will take you wherever you want and stop when you ask. Where in Rajasthan are you planning to go and how long will you have?
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Old Dec 1st, 2006, 03:21 PM
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Thank you landini. I'm definitely planning on arranging everything ahead of time. I also just came back from India on a small group tour. I'm hooked and want to go back. Thinking of 3 nights each in Udaipur, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, then maybe one smaller place and definitely a stop at the Jain Temples in Ranakpur. Then going on to the caves of Elora and Elantra ending in Mumbai. I got around a little on my own and did pretty well. Just wondering how you felt being alone on the whole trip? Thanks so much. I really appreciate your thoughts.
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Old Dec 1st, 2006, 05:09 PM
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I also traveled around India alone a few years back. I'm female and was early fifties at the time. I spent 10 weeks traveling, almost entirely by train and rickshaw, with one plane and a few days with a car and driver. I actually preferred 2AC to 1AC, because 1AC seemed to be mostly populated by dour businessmen, and in 2AC it was more friendly families. 2AC is also half the price.

I used an Indrail pass, with all my train trips reserved in advance, but I changed some of them after I got to India. I mostly made hotel reservations as I went along. The car and driver I arranged after I arrived, which seemed to be much cheaper.

I definitely recommend Jaisalmer and the Ajanta and Ellora caves (I stayed in Aurangabad). If you're going off the beaten track Bhopal is also worth a stop - for Sanchi and Bhimbetka.

Aside from one evening in Mumbai around the railway station I never felt unsafe. I did get really tired of bargaining and fending off vendors. Happy to answer any questions.
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Old Dec 1st, 2006, 08:19 PM
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I can say that I never felt unsafe, only frustrated at times. It can be hard not having someone to share that with sometimes. I travel solo a lot so it doesn't bother me. You get to be completely self indulgent and do what you want, when you want. I will say that there were several times I wished that someone else were there, only because I needed someone to witness all the wonderful,crazy, chaotic, antiquated things that were going on. I didn't think anyone would believe my stories and I wanted a witness. The other thing is that I got sick (as most people going to India do) and there were a couple of days that I wanted someone there to hold my hair back and feel sorry for me. However, I would of felt guilty for not wanting to do anything if I did have a travelling companion. You tend to get more attention when you are alone. People are, of course, amazed and fascinated that you would travel by yourself, but many people do it.

There are different opinions about the train travel, 1AC vs. 2AC. As I said, i initially wanted 2AC to meet locals, but I didn't like the set-up for night travel. On the other hand, I wouldn't have liked to have been in 1ac with three male business travelers, which is what you will get a lot.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 02:48 AM
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I just returned as well. Wonderful experience. Had hotel reservations, train tickets, etc., made through agent in New Delhi.Took two overnight trains, 2AC, and was very comfortable with the set up. Met some very nice people. People were very friendly and considerate and helpful. Never felt less than safe.Visited New Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Bharatpur, Ranthambore, Bandhavgarh. Stayed in all kinds of places. Took trains and car with driver between places. I've done a lot of travelling, much on my own, and I found India to be one of the friendliest and most comfortable.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 06:16 AM
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landini - what was it you didn't like about 2AC? You're sharing with strangers either way. I handled it by using the top half of a salwar suit as a "nightgown" - I took my shirt and bra off in the toilet, and then took my trousers off after I got into "bed". I also traveled with a silk sleep sack, which I loved. I would advocate avoiding 3AC, if possible, as there's so little headroom.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 08:45 AM
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The only annoyance I had was that the agent booked upper berths for both trips. On the first trip no one had the lower one on the side that has two berths so I was able to use the lower one. On the second trip the ticket taker said all lowers were booked so I had to wait for quite a while (at least 10 hours on a 20 hour trip) before some lowers were vacant and then I switched. Getting up and down (on the side that has 4 berths this time) can be very annoying. Also there is less room to store stuff.The agent never asked me for a preference and I assumed she would request lower berths if that were possible. I'm still not sure how that works.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 10:43 AM
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Thanks everyone for your encouragement and your insights.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 06:52 PM
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I'm not saying I didn't like 2AC, because I didn't actually travel in that class. I liked 1AC because you could close the door and lock it. On the other hand, as I stated, you could be locking yourself in with three other strange people , which would also be uncomfortable. I'm glad others that have actually travelled 2AC have given their opinions. I will definitely go that route on my next trip to INDIA. I was disappointed that I didn't really meet any interesting people on the train. What I REALLY wanted to do was ride in the car without air conditioning, the one with bars on the window. However, I think I was really just romantacizing how great that would be. I'm sure in reality it's incredibly uncomfortable. I heard that there are no assigned seats and some people stand for the entire journey. You've got me dreaming of India, again.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 07:26 PM
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landini - if you take a look at seat61.com/india he has info and photos on all the classes on Indian trains. I think what you wanted was sleeper class - no AC and bars on the window, but assigned berths. Think 2AC but without the AC. Not sure I'd want to do without the AC... (Yes, all this talk about India has got me thinking about going back.)
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