I highly recommend taking a train. We went from Shekawati to Delhi on an overnight train a four cabin with couchettes, I think it was 2AC. It was a great opportunity to meet Indian travellers and one of the highlights of our trip.

The couchettes were fine and the cabin and linens were clean. WE met two brother from a merchant family who were travelling into Delhi to visit a family member in hospital.

We arrived at a rather obscure train station at 5am -our friend in Delhi had never heard of it! The crowd outside the station was rather overwhelming but I recommend just pushing through and picking a taxi driver asap without worring whether you've overpaid by a dollar ot two.

On our next trip to India I'm sure we'll pick more route by train, it's a very Indian way to travel.

welltraveledbrit - if it was a cabin with a door you were in 1AC. 2AC is an open compartment with curtains (see the pix. at http://seat61.com/India.htm). In general I found the people in 2AC more friendly than those in 1AC, but you can always get lucky!

Mughal Sarrai is about 18 Kms outside of Varanasi, I'm not sure why your travel agent never booked a train to Varanasi station (and from Varanasi station to Agra Fort station), but as long as you enjoyed the journey from the stations, thats OK. it's all part of the India experience.

I will be taking several trains, one overnight. Is not a lock sufficient for luggage, and, if not, can you be specific about how you secured your bag(s)? Thanks.

There are straps ending in a metal loop hanging from the bottom bunks/seats. I took a cable and padlock and used them to secure my backpack to the strap. I kept my day pack beside me. I wore a money belt.

Thanks for the response. I guess I should get one of those cables and locks. I will be traveling with one suitcase, a daypack and a waistpack.

linhelen - how big a suitcase? And the general advice is that waistpacks are not secure. Don't use one instead of a money belt.

Re suitcase size..Haven't decided between approx. 21"x14" or 23x17.I usually take the smaller one but I will be gone for a longer time on this trip (17 days).The waist pack doubles as a shoulder bag. It can easily slip under a shirt when used as a waist pack, esp. when on a train.

linhelen - I'd vote for the smaller case and doing some laundry. That way you can handle it yourself and not hassle with porters. I'd also vote for a money belt - in addition to your waist pack - when your valuables are next to your skin you don't need to worry about them.

My preference is the smaller case. However I will be traveling for 18 days and there doesn't seem to be time or opportunity for any laundering. Even though I don't mind wearing things until they fall off :-),I don't know if I will have enough space.

If you take things you can handwash and dripdry it takes very little time. Places like travelsmith.com sell clothes specifically designed for that.

Any Indian hotel will have a same-day laundry service that does a good job at negligible cost.