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Siem Reap, Phnom Penh...your favorite experiences?
Hi all. I'm heading over to SR and PP in Oct or Nov and was wondering which non-temple experiences (i.e. restaurants/food, markets, coffee shops, bars, etc) did you find especially memorable or enjoyable when in these two cities. I'd love to hear your recommendations, thanks,
Kurt |
Well, for me, I went to SIEM REAP for the TEMPLES..Three visits this year,a total of 14 days there. However, there is the silk farm out near the airport and the stone carving workshop down near the French quarter. (Both Artisons d'Angkor).
However, if you go out to the ROLUOS GROUP, you will find another stone carving workshop there, opposite PREAH KO. This workshop does some unbelievable carvings at relatively inexpensive prices. I used to cool down at the ANGKOR restaurant opposite Angkor Wat for lunch with banana smoothies :-) Red Piano bar is a favorite with many people,and I went there with a friend. 5 beers and a coke US$ 7.50..So inexpensive. In Phnom Penh (which I did not like), there is the FCC club/ restaurant overlooking the river. Naturally, I visited KILLING FIELDS, S-21 PRISON, and the NATIONAL MUSEUM at Phnom Penh. I had three days in Phnom Penh,and,in my opinion, that was one day too many. I really enjoyed SIEM REAP, and will go back again next year. |
Massage at Frangipani in Siem Reap. Western prices but excellent.
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The reason 99% of people go to Cambodia is to visit the Angkor temples so I suppose that is a given, but they are now extremely crowded. When I visited in March 2007 I was shocked by how much SR had grown since the last time I was there in 1996. The town has expanded and the number of visitors has grown exponentially to the current levels. Definitely worth seeing but but choose your timings carefully to avoid the crowds. As you are in Oct /November which is the cool wet season, the crowds will be reduced and you will have the added benefit that the place will still be green and lush great for photos.
Tonle Sap is definitely worth a visit - hire a tuk tuk driver for $14 a day and get them to take you there and elsewhere round and about the countryside of SR. We stopped off at Artizans de Angkor on the way back and bought some great lacquerware (not cheap but amazing quality). Unlike the previous poster, I liked Phnom Penh a lot. There is a lot of poverty there and I think that can put a lot of people off somewhat. The Killing Fields at Choeung Ek and Tuol Sleng prison are both very moving places and worth a visit. The Central and Russian Markets are both great (if you are into that sort of thing) and you can still get some great bargains there - I am still using a Lowe Alpine day pack I bought there for $2 after 13 years of quite intensive use. Orussey market is geared to locals but still worth a visit. Friends cafe is a great place to eat and serves the most amazing (but expensive) fruit juices and support a great cause in helping the street kids. FCC on the riverside on the riverside is a great place to hang out for a drink and take in the view and watch the world go by. Malis on Norodom Boulevard is a great place for khmer food, but there are so many good restaurants around you will be spoilt for choice. |
Al Rokoff, the journalist portrayed by John Malkovich in the Killing Fields movie, lives in Phnom Penh. My DS and his GF, then newly-minted college grads, spent a dinner chatting with him and some friends of his a few summers ago.
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Travel experience likes and dislikes are so very personal. My favorite things tend to be those random "local" encounters that I seem to fall into as some one who often travels solo.
I enjoyed PP. I visited the typical sites (Killing Fields, Genocide prison, National Museum and Palace) as well as spent time wandering the side streets, local markets and the area across from the Palace along the river. Two days is Had I had a little more time I might have done a local cooking class, they can be fun. In SR the temples, Tonle Sap, the night market, the museum, etc. are all IMHO worth the experience. If you have the time to see one of the more remote, less visited temples I would do it as well. The travel experience that I have most appreciated (I've traveled extensively in Asia, Canada, US, Central America and some of Europe) was the time spent with the schol children that the Ponheary Ly Foundation supports. Check out www.theplf.org. The work is remarkable and I feel so fortunate to have had a chance to spend time with them the last two trips I made to SR. It's an amazing and powerful experience. BTW, early morning is a lovely time to walk around (quietly and respectfully) Wat Bo. |
Thank you all very much! (especially gearsau, crellston, and cjbryant for your voluminous and informative responses).
While the temples will be a significant part of the trip, its good to know of the special side attractions. Thanks again, Kurt |
We enjoyed the Apsara and folk dances performed at the La Residence d'Angkor hotel....also, ice cream breaks at the Blue Pumpkin cafes (one's across from Angkor Wat)....lunch (or dinner) at Sugar Palm restaurant.
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I forgot to mention Banteay Srei. It's about 30 km or so out of town, and this temple has some of the best sandstone cravings in the region. Best time to visit is either in the morning, or, after 3:00PM , when the western side is lit by the setting sun. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banteay_Srei
Nice scenice ride out there by Tuk Tuk and its about an hour each way. Another interesting place in Beng Mealea, which is 70 km by Tuk Tuk, so, its a two hour run. I was there about 10 days ago. This temple is quite large, but, in a state of ruin. Its not swamped by tourists either, unlike Ta Prohm, Bayon, Angkor Wat etc. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beng_Mealea You actually go past the ROLUOS group on the way to Beng Mealea, and can see the interesting stone carving workshop which is located about 300 meters off the main N6 highway . Right opposite Preah Koh. Ta Som is interesting, as it has a tree growing over the eastern entrance. Not as popular, but, definitely worth seeing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ta_Som I think I covered most temples at Angkor during my three trips there this year. Hope this helps.. |
Thanks, Barefootbeach.. will definitely try :D
Helps a lot, Gearsau! I appreciate the many leads here :) Take care.. |
gearsau, Ta Som was one of our favorites. We were the only visitors and sat in the silence of the ruins for a good hour. We decided to revisit it our last day, and there were crews doing stabilization and reconstruction. I wonder how much it has changed since our visit 10 years ago. Here are our photos of Ta Som angkorwat.marlandc.com/TaSom/index.htm
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Katie,
Ta Som really has not changed a great deal since your photos were taken. Still has the tree over growing the entrance. As its a small temple, and a little bit off the beaten path, its not as over run with tourists, compared to the circus which is Ta Prohm now... http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...0&l=c9617d96c0 http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...0&l=0cf0cba939 |
Thanks, gearsau. When we saw the restoration work in progress we worried that it would be changed for the worse. I'm so glad to hear that it has not.
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Hello Mr. Mango
My favorite thing to do in Phnom Penh is to get on a bus heading OUT. :) Siem Reap Reatsurants and Bars: http://tinyurl.com/srchow The list is mostly restaurants. Other bars I've been enjoying are the Giddy Gecko (shisha bar) and Little Pari. Be sure to go to Touich (in the list above) and have one or five khmer mojitos and for sure the snapper. Getting there is half the fun, especially after a good rain. :) Keep your eye on this space: http://www.siemreaplife.com Go out on the microlight: www.skyventure.org Rent a bike, get your ipod and follow the river away from Angkor Wat. Ride a horse. Take a quad tour. Go to Kompong Khleang, walk through the village market up to the Pagoda and down to the boat dock. Take a boat out to the Tonle Sap. |
Thank you, Offwego. I will try out your recommendations here, for sure. Btw, what do you mean by getting OUT via bus? Sorry if I'm being a little thick here! Thanks again..
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Such a wealth of info in your links, Offwego! Cheers
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Great info for me to Lori.I am definitely going to try Touich
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Phnom Penh - not a "must see" - maybe one day to cover the major attractions and then move on to Angkor Wat. A long drive from PP, so I'd fly into Seim Reap if given the choice.
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Mango7, I've never met a temple I didn't like, so my reaction may be somewhat skewed, but my favorite experience was returning to my favorites a second time for a more relaxed, in depth visit.
The big draws -- Angkor Wat, the Bayon -- rightfully deserve their reputations and are somewhat overwhelming on the first go. They can also be literally overrun by our fellow travelers. My approach was to try to get an overview, an orientation as it were, then to return a day or so later to absorb the details. I loved riding around in tuktuks and sometimes just asked them to make the circuit around the archeological park as an opportunity to relax and take in the breeze. I usually stayed out during the lunch/siesta break when everyone else when back to town for a rest. I am told that this is not SOP however so be sure to clear your plans with your driver first. Four days just wasn't enough to do everything and the only foray I made outside of Angkor proper was to Bantey Srei. This is a jewel of a temple, but by 9:30 a.m. it was mobbed. Go early! Lori's suggestions for restaurants were A+. Abacus was my favorite. |
Thanks a bunch, marmot. Will most definitely use your advice here. I would think a nice tuktuk ride all over would be enjoyable in itself. Regards..
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My observations on apsara dances (based on a limited experience of two, admittedly), is that the quality of the food tends to be inversely proportional to the quality of the show. Having been to one of the big impersonal buffet restaurants catering mainly to asian coach parties, the food was average, but the show was excellent - I went to Amazon, and a couple of friends have recommended Angkor Mondial. I thought the show at La Residence was a bit poor in comparison - although the food is much better.
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Thanks Andy!
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Hi Mango7,
We were in Cambodia in 2006 and went to see a landmine museum.At that time it was located on the outskirts of Siem Reap I think with help from the Canadian gov't that it is now a new building and school near Banteay Srei.The web site is Cambodialandminemuseum.org also several reviews on trip advisor.We were very impressed with not only the museum but that it is a school for landmine amputees. |
"Bantey Srei. This is a jewel of a temple, but by 9:30 a.m. it was mobbed. Go early!"
Or go late, but its usually a zoo between 9 and 3. |
Whoops----- we were there in 2004 not 2006.We also went to a Cambodian Cultural Park ,it is rather Disney like but our driver wanted to show us this newly opened park.We were the only tourists there and it was interesting, there was music,dancing,theatre, food and replicas of old Cambodian houses. Our driver was very proud of this park.Might be something to do IF you have lots of time.
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Thanks Katy! I'll put it on my list, thanks a lot :)
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The Cultural Park is for locals. Therefore you gain some understanding of what Khmers find entertaining. Its all a bit strange but worth a visit if you have time. This is assuming that this is the one on the road out to the airport.
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The Cultural Park we went to was new in 2004 but I'm sorry I don't know where it is located.
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in SR, I enjoyed the stilted village of Kompong Kleang. It's further than the other visited village, Kompong Phluk, but always has water (we went in late Jan 09). You can see how villagers live and say hello and goodbye to all the kids who will follow you around. along the way you can visit a local market and on the way back, drive thru "sticky rice lane" (my name for it), a street full of vendors who sell sticky rice in bamboo. delicious!
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Hi Mango,
We were in Cambodia last year. In Siem Reap, we really enjoyed a morning out on the Tonle Sap (Kompong Phhluk). We loved the cheap massages at Dr. Foot and Be VIP. Restaurant recommendations are Viroths, AHA, Blue Pumpkin, and the stalls around the temples (the noodle soups and fried rice are yummy!). We also enjoyed the apsara dance performance at one of the smaller venues. And another thumbs up for Artisans D'Angkor. In PP, a visit to Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields are a must IMO. We enjoyed drinks at the FCC overlooking the Mekong and riverside promenade. Restaurants we loved were Romdeng, Frizz, and Malis. The Central Market in PP was undergoing renovations when we were there, but if it is open, do check it out. Another memorable experience was our cooking class in Battambang which started with a stroll through the local market to buy our ingredients. Frizz restaurant in PP has classes, so if you have time and enjoy cooking, that should be a fun experience. Ours certainly was. If you are interested, you can check out our blog and pictures at: http://culturesconnected.smugmug.com/Travel/Cambodia Have a great time in Cambodia! |
Wow, thanks Seemaskt! I appreciate your insight here, especially for PP, which seems like an area that's underwhelming. Will check out many of the places u powernt out. Cheers,
Kurt |
Don't let anyone tell you that PP is not worth a visit. You just need to get out and about. All the usual tourist attractions are a must but also go bike riding with Greeen Grasshopper which goes out into the country.
They use comfortable mountain bikes and the rides are not that strenuous. Take a cooking class at Frizz restaurant which is a great way to learn about the local food but also get to know some more information about the culture. |
Thanks Karen we are also going to PP and have 3 days there, i have looked at GH tours. Were they a good company to deal with etc?
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Thank u, Karen!
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Going swimming in SR hotel after touring all morning!!! It was hot!
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I should have mentioned that the most memorable experience was.... "The travel experience that I have most appreciated (I've traveled extensively in Asia, US, Central America and Europe) was the time spent with the schol children that the Ponheary Ly Foundation supports. Check out www.theplf.org. The work is remarkable and I feel so fortunate to have had a chance to spend time with them the last two trips I made to SR. It's an amazing and powerful experience." I did the same and it was special. Even my grandkids still talk about this experience after they hardly remember the temples.
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