Siem Reap - Go for the Temples, Stay for the Food
 

I just got back home to Bangkok yesterday from a return visit to Siem Reap and the Angkor temples (flight wasn't delayed and baggage actually came out quickly).

This is my first return trip to Siem Reap in almost eight years. I've been meaning to get back for several years, but time and budget problems kept forcing me to put it off. A few people, including someone who opened their own pub in Siem Reap, had recently commented that the town is actually getting better with development.

I was sceptical, since such things don't happen in Asia, but I have to say the place does look a lot better than it did eight years ago. The buildings around the old market have been restored and for an Aisan city, Siem Reap is rather clean. I know there are problems under the surface, like some hotels dumping sewage into the river, but they're obivously making much more of an effort than many other tourist destinations to make the city livable.

I had Dara Ly as my guide for the first three days. Aside from updating my own written guide, the main purpose of this trip was to build up a larger photo library for the temples at Angkor. My last visit was pre-digital and unknown to me, my main camera had developed a shutter problem early in my trip, resulting in almost no usable pictures. For this purpose, Dara is the perfect choice, since he's done a lot of photographing of the temples himself, and he knows every hidden spot to get a good picture. Since I was visiting during the high season, Dara was also very useful for his knowledge of where the crowds would be, and avoiding them.

Aside from the main temples in the complex, I visited Banteay Srei, Kbal Spen and Beng Meleay. The last was quite interesting. There's been some clearing of brush and the construction of viewing platforms to help get around, but no restoration work at all. You get quite a different perspective from the roof, which is where you have to walk to see most of the temple.

As suggested by my title, the food in Siem Reap was a big surprise. There weren't that many restaurants in town last time, and while I remember having a good meal at the FCC (which has since moved), it was nothing outstanding. On my first night, I had an absolutely fantastic dinner at Viroth's, a cool contemporary garden restaurnat. The second night I gave in to my love of Mexican food and ate at Viva, which was okay. The last evening I had dinner at Les Orientalistes, which was also outstanding. I went with the French menu, although they also have Asian food. Although French, this definitely isn't some trendy 'nouvelle' restaurant. Portions were quite generous and I was quite stuffed by the time I finished my Il Flotante dessert. At $23 it was a bit pricey for Siem Reap, but definitely a good deal.

Thanks for the report!

thanks michael

Thanks for the info MichaelBkk - I've printed out your restaurant suggestions. It was nice to hear that you felt it was better than when you were there 8 years ago - I've read so much about how it's almost been spoiled from the great influx of tourists.

Can you offer any photography tips for an amatuer? :-)

<font color="green">Cyn</font>

Thanks for the report. We've had camera problems also while traveling; how fortunate you're able to retrace your steps with a good camera - doesn't happen often in life! On our way tomorrow and will have to hunt down Viroth's. Would also welcome any photo tips! Claire

Michael we ate at Viroth's twice when we were in SR in Oct also loved the atmosphere and food. The fish amok was totally delicious!
J

Just an update. I'm slowly sorting through my photos and getting the decent ones uploaded to my gallery at: http://www.chiengfa.com/gallery2/mai...ighlightId=799

I've already got Beng Melea and Kbal Spean photos uploaded, along with many other of the usualy sites.

I discovered that I took around 1,000 pictures on this four day trip. The nice thing about digital photography is that you can apply the infinite monkey theorem (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infinite_monkey_theorem) at virtually no cost. If you take enough pictures, a few of them are bound to be good.

Other than that, one key point is patience. I quickly found that Dara, unlike a lot of guides, wasn't in a hurry to move me along. He understood the desire to get good shots, without people, etc. He even helped acting as lookout when I was trying to frame a shot.

Patience and 'always keep your back to the sun' are the two factors most likely to result in good photos.

Hi Michael - I'm just updating our blog with food info for Siem Reap - definitely agree with you!

Here are a few additional restaurant suggestions - pix on our blog - link below

- Red Piano is a good bar for people watching and good frites
- Khmer Kitchen has delicious food and is cheap, cheap, cheap
- Abacus - lovely French influenced cuisine
- Carnets D'Asie - beautiful courtyard setting and a delicious red duck curry
- we also went to the Mexican restaurant - good chips and a welcome flavour hit!

One restaurant we had on our list but didn't get to:

- Meric in the Hotel de la Paix

More detail on the menus and (eventually) addresses for the above restaurants on our blog

http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/2007_adventures/

Khmer Kitchen is definitely the place. It's packed in the evening but is a good place to grab lunch. The other place in a similar vein is Soup Dragon, which has a good Vietnamese menu in addition to western and Khmer fare. Both were recommended by Dara.

I decided to skip Red Piano. For me AND Angelina to be associated with the same place would simply be too much. :-P

How do I contACT Dara to setup a tour with him? And what are his rates?

You can contact Dara at [email protected]

Here's my plug for the Soup Dragon, partly because the food was so great, including the banana ice cream but also because they forward 10% of their profit to the Angkor Hospital for Children. Needless to say, its a popular place for the volunteers and staff there!

Thank you offwego :)

Mark-

The STANDARD rates for ANY guide/car etc. in Siem Reap are as follows:

Guide + Car + Driver: $45 / Day
Car + Driver: $25 / Day
Tuk-tuk + Driver: $12 / Day

Everybody I've talked to pays the same rates, no matter how much they think they've negotiated. You have to pay extra for long trips like Kbal Spean and Beng Melea.

The difference with Dara and his sister Ponheary (there are two other sisters who are guides also) is that they are very good, as I've pointed out, and they give a lot back to the community. Just before I arrived, Dara was telling me they had donated $450 collected from their customers (that's you guys!) to help out 350 orphans.

Michael,
Is the rate for Dara &amp; driver $45 a day per person or for car?
Thanks for your excellent feedback.

per car full of people

Just a note re Dara/Ponheary current charges - it's $55 per day ($30 car/$25 driver) - maybe due to higher gas prices....