mbloggs

I'm going to Kuching in Sarawak Malaysia this month as part of a small-ship cruise. Since we're sleeping and eating on the ship, we only need play money but they've advised us to take some local currency as there 'may be shopping opportunities.'

I'm interested in local arts and crafts, and know ikat is made in this region. Can anyone tell me what I might pay for average quality ikat? Do most of the shops take credit cards or do I need cash?

Also can anyone suggest a budget for a half day wandering around the city? Our group has a city tour in the morning then we have the afternoon free to explore. We need to cover taxis and drinks and perhaps souvenir shopping if we see something for the grandkids.

Kathie

There is interesting shopping in Kuching. A row of old shophouses across the street from the river walk hold a myriad of treasures. Here is a section of my trip report about buying ikat in Kuching:

The pua kumbu is the sine qua non of Iban textiles. Pua means, literally, blanket. So while puas vary in size, they are large pieces. I also found that there were smaller pieces that were woven by women before they married that were skirts, bidang. This was a rite of passing into adulthood. As they were a “first effort” they are often not as finely woven. I found these smaller pieces were more in the price range I wanted, and I really loved the idea of these “rites of passage.” The Iban textiles are hand-woven of course. Most are done in an ikat technique. Depending on age and where they were woven, they may have all natural dyes, all commercial dyes, or a combination of the two. Also, some are made from cotton thread that was hand-spun, some from commercial thread. These variables are related not only to the age of the textile, but also to exactly where it was made. Those made farther out in the jungle are more likely to have used more of the natural dyes and more likely to use hand-spun cotton. The motifs on the textiles are very interesting. The weaver chooses her motifs from her dreams, so only she can say exactly what they mean. There is quite a “vocabulary” of motifs that are common in the textiles, such as ferns, deer, birds and perhaps my favorite, copulating leeches, a symbol of fertility. The shops usually have their older and more expensive items in the back or upstairs. If you express interest, the shopkeepers are glad to show you many items and talk with you about their history. I learned so much from the shopkeepers that enhanced what I’d already read about the textiles. I was able to buy a piece for a friend who is a fiber artist, and two pieces for myself. All are of hand-spun cotton in natural dyes, which is just what I was looking for.

These places will take credit cards.

It's hard to know how much money you might spend. Is Kuching the only stop you make in Malaysia? I think I'd get $100 worth out of an ATM, just so you have cash. One of our favorite purchases was a kilo of Sarawak pepper, processed locally by hand. The pepper has a unique, winey flavor.

(Personally, I'd skip the morning group tour and wander the city on my own - go to the museum, walk the length of the river walk from the Hilton Hotel to India street, and shop along the way.)

Craig

I also bought Sarawak peppercorns while in Kuching but we thought the shopping was so-so otherwise. Do wander the city on your own as Kathie suggests.

mbloggs

Fantastic advice - thank you Kathie and Craig.

The trip we're doing is mostly about wildlife: Tanjung Puting National Park Kalimantan (Camp Leakey), Kuching, Bako National Park and diving/snorkelling around various Indonesian islands. So we're not really stopping in places where we'll want to spend much money. Apart from the ikat I don't think there's going to be much else I'm interested in buying, so if they take credit cards there's no problem.

susiesan

mbloggs: Can you tell me about this small ship cruise you are taking, the name of the company? I will be in Borneo next year, arrive Kota Kinabalu on May 8 depart from Kuching on May 20. I have not figured out a plan for what to do there yet. I'm looking for suggestions, exploring options.

mbloggs

We are travelling with Orion. It's an Australian company that has recently been bought by Linberger (or something similar) who run the National Geographic ships. There are 100 people and 75 crew, so it is luxurious in the extreme, but it is not a typical 'cruise' from what I understand ... no parties, swimming pool, nightclubbing, events etc. We start in Bali and stop two days at Camp Leakey, then a day in Kuching, then a day in Bako national park, then two days diving/snorkelling around a couple of archipelago in Indonesia. We finish in Singapore. They anchor close to shore and use Zodiac boats to go up river. They also have kayaks that we can use. I don't think though that they operate in May. Check out their website to be sure.